Female haircuts Parallel layers Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 1 of 14
Parallel layers The layering of hair is the internal shaping of a cut. It provides volume, direction, movement and sometimes soft edges on the perimeters. Layering can also be described as the three-dimensional shape of hair. Systems for layering are classified by shapes and patterns: Parallel Convex Concave Square Asymmetric All of these shapes and patterns can be used together or on their own. See the pages on hair travel for more details on layering patterns. The haircut on our model gives a soft look. It is versatile and has several finishes when it is blow-dried. The look has no outline shape. This was achieved by layering the shape only. A combination of vertical and horizontal lines are used to move the shape and achieve the best angles for this cut. The cut can be kept long or cut short using the same layering system. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 2 of 14
Haircut guide Cutting Preparation Completed client and hair analysis. Chosen desired length for suitability. Client is gowned and seated comfortably. A layered cut is split into segments; the back, sides, front and top areas. Back Area The nape area and the first cutting section, are combed into position. The first cutting section is one of the most important areas. It forms a guide for the remainder of the shape. The guideline is picked up from the middle of the section. With segments of hair between the fingers, cut the first guide parallel to the shape of the head. These vertical sections are pulled parallel from the head and are worked out to the back of the ear. The hair is cross checked horizontally, in order to maintain the correct length and balance during cutting. Both sides are completed and cross checked. Nape - crown area Continue with the same centre guideline from the nape area. Pivot the fingers according to the shape and length required to fall at the nape area. The hair is pulled out parallel to the head, with more length being created towards the top. All sections are pulled out vertically and parallel to the back of the crown/ears. Both sides are completed and cross checked before beginning on the side area. Side areas Having completed the back area, the guideline for the sides is taken from the back of the ears. This guideline is pulled out parallel to the head shape. The following section is then pulled back to the guide, creating length towards the front. This process is repeated on all sections where each guide is pulled parallel, and the cutting section is pulled back towards the guide which is to be cut (see diagram). This method of layering allows the hair to be pushed forward easily and gradually builds length. Both sides are completed and cross checked. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 3 of 14
Crown and top area The next stage is to partially disconnect the cut at the front/side area. The crown is connected vertically. The angle is longer and higher towards the front of the head. This stage can be blunt cut by using thinning scissors depending on the desired result. The crown and side area are connected with the crown guide. The shape is pulled parallel to the head. Proceed with the system used to cut the sides, and work towards the front. Front area The front area is lifted over the comb and 'point cut'. This gives the shape a softer edge. Depending on the client's requirements, the perimeter shape can be 'strengthened up' for a bolder shape prior to blowdrying. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 4 of 14
Step 1 of 17 - Before Our model is ideal for this haircut. Her hair is medium texture and has a slight natural wave. She has an oval face shape and her hairlines are flat, with an even growth pattern. Before cutting, be sure to check your client's hairlines and hair-growth patterns so you can choose the best layering system for the cut. Step 2 of 17 - Back area Section off the hair above the occipital area. Take out a vertical section as your first cutting guideline. This is one of the most important sections in the haircut. It is the main guideline to the length of your haircut. You should decide on the length of your haircut during your client analysis and consultation. Sectioning off the hair into segments or areas makes cutting a great deal easier. It also makes it clearer for you to see how you are progressing through a haircut and understand how you achieved the finished result. Tip: The first section is very important. It gives you your guideline for the rest of your haircut. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 5 of 14
Step 3 of 17 - Behind the ear Hold the section of hair that is your cutting guide between the inside of your fingers and pull it parallel to the head shape. Using the inside of your fingers in this way is an important technique to learn. It gives you flexibility and greater precision in achieving the correct angles for the haircut. Make sure the hair is always wet and that your cutting sections are clean. Use the fine teeth of your comb to achieve maximum tension in the hair. Notice how the model's head is in a slightly forward position. This allows the stylist to achieve the correct angle in the haircut. Tip: Throughout your cut, keep checking for balance, clean sections, and accurate cutting line. Step 4 of 17 - Maintaining weight and balance The stylist is working out from the centre towards the back of the ear in parallel lines. When you are cutting parallel layers, you should position your body parallel to the head. This enables you to achieve an even and balanced shape. Note the client's head position and the angle of the stylist fingers. See how the stylist is cutting the hair on the inside of their fingers to achieve the correct angle. The sections are all pulled parallel to the head shape. This will achieve a soft, natural, flat hairline at the back. (see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 6 of 14
Step 5 of 17 - Cross check When you have completed the nape area, check the balance of the haircut before proceeding to cut the area above the nape. Here, the stylist is cutting horizontally to check the balance and clarity of the lines. You can also see how the section from the back of the crown to the back of ear is separated. Tip: Check the balance of your lines continually as you progress so you don t waste time putting it right at the end of the haircut. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 7 of 14
Step 6 of 17 - Nape and crown area Pull out from the head the next vertical section to be cut. Take your guideline from the nape section. Hold the guideline between your fingers and pivot your fingers to angle the cut away from the head. This will give you more length at the crown. To achieve the correct angle, you will need to tilt your client's head into an upright position. To achieve the best result, keep your body parallel to the head, angle your fingers correctly and use the fine teeth of your comb to achieve maximum tension in the hair. Tip: To achieve optimum angles in the nape and crown area the use of cutting with the inside of your fingers is better when cutting. Step 7 of 17 - Back of the crown to the back of the ears Continue working until you reach the back of the crown, pulling out parallel sections. Pull out your last section parallel to the back of the ear, allowing the nape hairline to fall away. As you work, follow your cutting angle with your body. This will help you achieve balance in your haircut. Note how the stylist here has not cut into the bottom of the hair. (see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 8 of 14
Step 8 of 17 - Back area completed, checked, balanced Follow your guideline out to the sides. The guide here is taken from the last section at the back of the ear and pulled parallel to the head. Use the same angle as before for your fingers and the section of hair. The hair is sectioned to the temple area. It is segmented, following the shape of the head and the flatness of the sides of the head. The stylist is standing parallel to the cutting line and angling the hair away from the head. Tip: How far back you pull this section into your guideline will determine the length at the front. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 9 of 14
Step 9 of 17 - Side area The side area is sectioned off from the temple to the back of the crown, with equal sections on both sides. The sectioning pattern is vertical and the stylist is using a system of progressive layers. The hair is pulled back to a new guideline each time to give a progressive build up in weight and length towards the front. This technique achieves a soft flow forward in the hair. Pulling all the hair back to the same point would build up too much weight and give your cut a heavy weight line. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 10 of 14
Step 10 of 17 - Side area Maintain the same angle on the side area and continue to take the direction of the cut backwards. Pull back the remaining sections from the front hairline. This will give you length, which you will cut freehand at a later stage. Remember to check across as you work on the second side. Tip: This layering system enables the hair to be pushed forward and builds up length progressively. Step 11 of 17 - Crown and top area Work towards the front of the head, using the same system you used to cut the sides. Pull the sections upright and parallel to the head. Angle the sections to create length towards the front. The depth of your angle will depend on the client's choice of style. You can also add shape to this area by cutting freehand when you have finished the rest of your haircut. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 11 of 14
Step 12 of 17 - Crown and top area This stage of the cut is partially disconnected at the front side areas The crown is connected vertically. Use a longer and higher angle towards the front of the head. The crown side area is connected with the crown guide. Using the crown as your guideline allows you to continue the angle from the back of the head. You can blunt cut' this stage or use thinning scissors, depending on the finished look you are aiming for. Note how the stylist's fingers are curved as they pull the hair upright. Step 13 of 17 - Front area At this stage of the cut you can add your own personal touches. Our stylist has chosen to cut this section by lifting the hair over the comb and point cutting to achieve a soft edge to the shape. Before blow drying, you can add strength to the perimeter to give the haircut a bolder shape. Your haircut is now complete. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 12 of 14
Step 14 of 17 - Slices, first colour To add first colour, take a slice of hair, create a fine horizontal meche and place the meche onto a colour wrap. Our stylist has taken a rectangular segment from the top box section. We used Blondor special cream with 9 per cent welloxon perfect to pre-lighten the hair. We applied it to mid-lengths and ends first, then used the root area colour wrap to secure each slice. We developed the colour for 20 minutes under heat using a Climazon Millennium to achieve the required lift. Step 15 of 17 - Colour Touch Application, second colour Having shampooed the hair, we applied Wella colour 6/45 vermilion and 0/4/6 red fire, mixed with original crème lotion, to sections from the crown to the nape area. Step 16 of 17 - Work from crown Work from crown to front hairline. We developed the colour for 20 minutes without heat the rinsed the hair to remove any excess product. (See products for tips on removing colour.) Colour touch was applied, using an applicator bottle to make sure we achieved an even distribution. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 13 of 14
Step 17 of 17 - Final result Our model's hair was blow-dried using a vent brush (see blow-drying techniques). High-hair texturising mousse extra hold was used to create more volume at the crown. The styling was finished off with high-hair finishing spray. For more on this, see styling products. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 14 of 14