Japanese Psychological Research 2017, Volume 59, No. 4, 288 300 doi: 10.1111/jpr.12164 Assimilation Effects of Eye Shadow on Facial Colors 1,2 YOSHIE KIRITANI 3 * YURINA KOMURO AKANE OKAZAKI Chiba University Toppan Forms Co. Appirits Inc. RURIKO TAKANO and NORIKO OOKUBO Shiseido Co., Ltd. Abstract: Makeup can change facial complexion, making it of interest both practically and for empirical research on perception. We examined the assimilation effect of eye shadow on complexion using two series of eye shadows: typical colors that are not evenly saturated and colors with saturation as even as possible. Twenty participants assessed the degree of redness in reddish faces, yellowness in yellowish faces, and lightness in both faces via paired comparisons. The results indicated that: (a) the reddish face was perceived as redder when it had eye shadow of pinkish and purplish colors or reddish saturated colors instead of containing yellowish components; (b) the yellowish face became less yellow with colors without a greenish or yellowish component; and (c) except for the lighter yellowish shade, eye shadow made the face perceptually darker. We confirmed the assimilation effect of eye shadow on complexion and showed differences in perceptual hue change according to the original face colors. Key words: colors, face perception, assimilation, complexion, eye shadow. Facial complexion is an important aspect of human aesthetics and serves as a communication tool to convey various information about the person (see Fink, Grammer, & Matts, 2006; Gómez, 2008; Inoue, 2001; Nestor & Tarr, 2008; Perreira & Telles, 2014). Makeup which can change the color of the skin is also an important communication tool for managing one s social life. Yogo (2002) concluded that makeup can reduce negative emotions, such as interpersonal and state anxiety and excessive tension, and increase *Correspondence concerning this article should be sent to: Yoshie Kiritani, Department of Design, Graduate School of Engineering, Chiba University, Yayoicho, Inage-ku, Chiba 263-8522, Japan. (E-mail: kiritani@faculty. chiba-u.jp) 1 This research was supported by JSPS KAKENHI Grant Number 15K00678. 2 An earlier version of Experiment 1 in this paper was read at an annual meeting of the Japanese Society for the Science of Design in 2015 and at the 2015 International Association of Societies of Design and that of Experiment 2 was presented at the European Conference on Visual Perception 2015. 3 The authors wish to thank Professor Osvald da Pos of Padua University for reading the draft and making helpful suggestions. 2017 Japanese Psychological Association. Published by John Wiley & Sons Australia, Ltd.
Assimilation effects of eye shadow 289 positive emotions, such as confidence, satisfaction, and motivation. Overall, makeup can help people to lead a healthier social life. Many women who apply their own makeup daily have experienced perceptual color changes through makeup. For example, if you whiten your eyelids with a matte eye shadow, your face seems to be brighter without foundation. A handbook of makeup shows an example of the phenomenon (SHISEIDO Academy of Beauty & Fashion, 2010). Although the faces are identical, the face with yellowish makeup seems to have a more yellowish complexion, while on the other hand, the face with bluish makeup seems to have a more reddish complexion. Not only the color of foundation, but also the colors of point makeup can change the apparent complexion. These are empirical facts for many women and are important for the present study. The color induction caused by makeup evokes notions of color illusions, such as color contrast and color assimilation. Although much remains to be investigated regarding the relation between classical color illusions and complexion, some research has indicated that color perception in the face has unique properties. Yoshikawa, Kikuchi, Yaguchi, Mizokami, and Takata (2012) found that reddish faces appeared brighter or whiter than did yellowish faces in high-lightness areas, and that lowchroma face colors appeared brighter or whiter than did high-chroma ones. Notably, these effects were confirmed only in the face, and not in color-plate images. Han and Fuchida (2013) found perceptual color changes in animated face images but not in color chips. Kiritani, Ushikubo, and Takano (2004) found that impressions formed by makeup color in real faces differed from impressions formed by illustrations and colored paper. Thus, color perception in faces may have somewhat different underlying mechanisms compared to other forms of color perception. Morikawa (2012) proposed a new class of illusions, called biological illusions, related to the shape and size of the human face and body. One of their characteristic features is the effect of illusion magnitude. Such illusions tend to peak at 4 6%. Even an illusion magnitude of 5% can result in significant changes in impressions. One biological illusion that he proposed was the visual echo illusion, which has similarities to color assimilation: namely, it refers to the figural configurations that induce perceptual assimilation in the human face and body. Additionally, Futagawa, Hirayama, and Yamazaki (2009) showed how the brightness of the décolleté can have assimilation effects on the face (i.e., a brighter décolleté causes the face to appear similarly bright). Such perceptual assimilation may be a similar phenomenon to the perceptual changes of facial hue due to makeup. Kiritani, Komuro, Okazaki, Takano, and Ookubo (2016) preliminarily confirmed an assimilation effect of eye shadow. Three face colors (neutral, reddish, and yellowish) and seven typical colors of eye shadow covering all hues were examined. Sixteen female students compared the colors of faces and ellipses to evaluate the redness and yellowness of the faces; the ellipses changed in color from an obviously reddish skin color to an obviously yellowish one in nine steps. Serial and simultaneous presentation of faces and ellipses were applied. The results showed that some reddish colors (e.g., red, pink, and purple) enhanced the redness of both reddish and yellowish faces during the serial presentation condition. The other four eye shadow colors did not significantly change the complexion: for example, the yellowish eye shadow did not significantly make the faces yellower. Examination of the chromatic indexes of the colors with significant color induction effects revealed that the colors of the positively greater a* and positively medium b* showed assimilation effects. 4 However, the assimilation effect appeared only during serial presentation and only for a limited range of colors. Thus, another evaluation method should be used to confirm these results. 4 a* and b* are indexes of the chromaticity of the L*a*b* color system and represent hue and chromaticness. A positive a* value corresponds to redness, a negative a* value corresponds to greenness, a positive b* value corresponds to yellowness, and a negative b* value corresponds to blueness. If the values of a* and b* are larger, the colors are saturated. L* represents lightness value.
290 Y. Kiritani, Y. Komuro, A. Okazaki, R. Takano, and N. Ookubo In the present study, we examined how eye shadow changes the appearance of complexion to confirm the assimilation effect found previously. Two face colors of Japanese women (reddish and yellowish) were used and a paired comparison method was adopted; in other words, we confirmed whether the original face color was emphasized by eye shadows. We again used high facial lightness, as used in Kiritani et al. (2016). Two series of eye shadows were prepared: typical and cosmetically natural colors without physically even saturation (Experiment 1) and colors with saturation that were as even as possible (Experiment 2). The eye shadows were determined to be helpful in examining the degree of redness and yellowness represented in the a*b* space. Our results confirmed that eye shadow color could have assimilation effects on the appearance of complexion; the results are explainable with the visual echo illusion (Morikawa, 2012, 2017) and clarify the perceptual dimensions of complexion. The redness and the yellowness of skin in the evaluation of complexion are worth mentioning in passing. Stephen, Smith, Stirrat, and Perrett (2009) stated that increased redness, yellowness, and lightness of skin signified an enhanced healthy appearance, as redness corresponds to blood coloration and yellowness and lightness are associated with carotenoid pigmentation. Opinions vary as to desirable complexion regarding redness and yellowness: for example, Suzuki (1990), Aoki, Suzuki, and Kobayashi (2003), and Yoshikawa et al. (2009) support the preference for reddish complexion but Shibaki, Hirakawa, Furukawa, and Naito (2005), Fan, Deng, Tsuruoka, Aoki, and Kobayashi (2010), and Miura and Saito (2003) are supporters of yellowish complexion. Although we have not decided which is correct, we will present some data to consider this problem. Method Experiment 1 Participants. Twenty female students (M age = 23.3 years, SD = 1.3) participated in the experiment. They all had normal vision and applied their own makeup daily. Although no tests of color vision anomalies were used, the experimenters verbally confirmed that they had no color blindness. Informed consent was verbally obtained from each participant before participation in the study. Apparatus and stimuli. The stimuli were presented on a 15-in. MacBook Pro with a Retina display (early 2013 model) using Adobe Flash. The distance between the participant and monitor was about 50 cm. The background for the stimuli was gray with 75% opacity (a* = 3.00, b* = 6.07, relative L* = 26.46, 8.96 cd/m 2 ; we calculated all indexes of L* with reference to the monitor s white value). A picture (size: 135 mm 90 mm or 15.38 10.29 ) of an averaged female face obtained from Shiseido Co. Ltd. formed the base stimulus. We used two experimental stimulus factors: face color and eye shadow color. In the experiment, faces with and without eye shadow were evaluated. The face color factor had two levels: reddish and yellowish. These colors were created with reference to Yoshikawa et al. s (2012) results to represent the natural complexion of Japanese faces. Nine points of the cheek were measured and the averages of the indexes are presented in Table 1. The C* and L* had almost the same values, and these two faces varied only in terms of the hue. The factor of eye shadow color had seven levels (Table 2). These colors were prepared such that they were distributed at every 45 in the a*b* space. To obtain clearly perceivable colors, colors with positive a* values were given relatively higher values in the a* axis. All colors were measured by using a spectroradiometer (CS-1000, Konica Minolta with CS-S10W software). The eye shadow was drawn with the blush tools of Adobe Photoshop CS6. A colored line was put on the upper edge of the eye, whose opacity was 100%. Above the line, a semitransparent oval-like figure made a gradation part: In fact, this was not a gradation, but a
Assimilation effects of eye shadow 291 Table 1 Indexes of two face colors and seven eye shadows in Experiment 1 Face h C* a* b* Relative L* Luminance (cd/m 2 ) Reddish 53.44 24.81 14.78 19.92 83.23 189.07 Yellowish 83.14 26.87 3.17 26.69 86.65 210.58 Note. h is hue angle; reddish colors are near to 0 and yellowish ones are near to 90. C* represents chromaticness; larger values mean higher chroma. Table 2 Indexes of the seven eye shadows in Experiment 1 Perceived color h C* a* b* Relative L* Luminance (cd/m 2 ) Pinkish 352.41 49.60 49.17 6.55 52.02 55.99 L-brownish 47.88 46.06 30.89 34.16 51.64 54.99 Yellowish 100.71 74.76 13.9 73.46 66.23 103.56 Greenish 154.91 24.73 22.4 10.49 52.36 56.94 B-greenish 189.04 26.49 26.16 4.16 51.92 55.75 L-bluish 262.13 26.22 3.59 25.97 52.60 57.57 Violet 300.80 28.02 14.35 24.07 52.01 58.17 single color whose opacity was less than 20%. These faces with eye shadow were artificial but were made under the supervision of makeup professionals. Procedure. The measurements were the perceptual redness or yellowness of the faces and their perceptual lightness. Participants were required to evaluate the redness and yellowness of presented reddish and yellowish faces, respectively. A paired comparison was adopted for the evaluation. Specifically, two faces with the same base color were simultaneously shown on the monitor. The participants then selected the perceptually redder face from the pair of reddish faces or the perceptually yellower face from the pair of yellowish faces. Similarly, the participants selected the perceptually lighter face for the evaluation of lightness. They were required to look at and to evaluate the entire face, not certain parts in the face. The presentation order of the stimuli was randomized both within and between participants. All participants finished the experiment within 30 min. The experiment was performed in a dark room, where the only light source was the computer used in the experiment. Results All data were plotted according to Scheffé s (1952) method (Nakaya version; Nakaya, 1970; Sato, 1985). To adopt this analysis, we gave a score of +1 if one stimulus was preferred to another and 1 otherwise. Confidence intervals (CI) of the difference between the face without eye shadow and the faces with eye shadow were calculated, using a yardstick s Y; if the CI did not include zero, the difference between the scale values was significant at a certain significance level. Perceived redness of reddish faces. The perceived redness of the reddish faces is plotted in Figure 1, in which positively higher values signify perceptually redder faces. An analysis of variance (ANOVA) showed that the main effect of eye shadows was significant, F(7, 560) = 41.57, p =.0001, η G 2 = 0.306. The pinkish, light brownish, and violet eye shadows made the face look significantly redder (99% CI, 0.303). The faces with other eye shadow colors besides these three colors had no significant differences to the face without eye shadow. None of the eye shadow colors made the face appear less red. Overall, we can say the colors with a larger positive a*, or those in the first and
292 Y. Kiritani, Y. Komuro, A. Okazaki, R. Takano, and N. Ookubo second quadrants of the a*b* space, made the reddish face redder. In contrast, the colors in the third and fourth quadrants, such as the yellowish, greenish, and bluish ones, had no effect on perceived reddish complexion. Perceived yellowness of yellowish faces. The perceived yellowness of the yellowish faces is expressed in Figure 2, in which positively higher values signify perceptually yellower faces. An ANOVA showed that the main effect of eye shadow colors was significant, F(7, 560) = 31.177, p =.0001, η G 2 = 0.220. The violet, pinkish, light bluish, and light brownish eye shadows made the face look significantly less yellow (99% CI, 0.296); the blue-greenish eye shadow also had an anti-yellowing effect at 95% CI (0.255). When these eye shadows were put on the yellowish faces, the faces seemed to be less yellow. The yellowish and greenish eye shadows had no significant effect and were seen as the same with the face without eye shadow. In the judgment of the perceived yellowness of the yellowish face, we did not find any eye shadows that made the face yellower. Instead, violet, pinkish, light brownish, light bluish, and blue-greenish eye shadows had an antiyellowing effect; these colors had less of a physical yellowish component, as shown in Table 2. Perceived lightness. The perceived lightness of the reddish face is expressed in Figure 3, in which positively higher values signify perceptually lighter faces. An ANOVA showed that the main effect of eye shadow colors was significant, F(7, 560) = 13.962, p =.0001, η G 2 = 0.123. Except for the yellowish eye shadow, the differences were significant at 99% CI (0.332). The perceived lightness of the eye shadow colors corresponded to the physical lightness: Table 2 shows that the light brownish color was the darkest, while the yellowish color was the lightest one. A Pearson s correlation coefficient between the scale values and the luminance of the eye shadow was 0.796, Figure 1 The effects of eye shadow colors on the perceived redness of the reddish face in Experiment 1. The black bar is for the face without eye shadow, and the white bars mean significant differences of scale values between the face without eye shadow and the face with a certain eye shadow (**p <.01). Figure 2 The effects of eye shadow colors on the perceived yellowness of the yellowish face in Experiment 1: The index system is the same as in Figure 1 (*p <.05 and **p <.01).
Assimilation effects of eye shadow 293 F(1, 5) = 8.66, at 5% significance level. The effect of perceptual lightening or darkening of the eye shadow colors correlates with their physical lightness. Figure 4 shows the expression of the perceived lightness of the yellowish face, in which positively higher values signify perceptually lighter faces. An ANOVA showed that the main effect of eye shadow colors was significant, F(7, 560) = 11.628, p =.0001, η G 2 = 0.095. Except for the yellowish eye shadow, the differences were significant: at 99% CI (0.318), the light brownish, light bluish, blue-greenish, greenish, and violet eye shadows; and at 95% CI (0.274), the pinkish eye shadow. A Pearson s correlation coefficient between the scale values and the luminance of the eye shadow was 0.745, F(1, 5) = 6.24, at the 10% significance level. The effect of perceptual lightening or darkening of the eye shadow colors may correlate with their physical lightness. Taken together, the results of the lightness of the two face colors revealed the following: (a) the face without eye shadow was perceived as lightest; and (b) the eye shadow colors perceptually darkened the face basically according to their own physical lightness. Discussion Experiment 1 examined how eye shadow affects the perceived complexion of a Japanese female face, using seven colors of eye shadow applied to both reddish and yellowish faces. The results basically showed an assimilation effect on perceived complexion by eye shadow colors. Specifically, the reddish face became perceptually redder with the addition of reddish eye shadow color, for example pink, light brownish, and violet, while the yellowish face became perceptually less yellow with eye shadow colors that had less yellowish components. Similarly, regarding the perceived lightness of the faces, both faces became perceptually darker with the addition of eye shadow color; if the eye shadow was yellowish and light, the faces did not darken. Thus, when faces showed assimilation effects of eye Figure 3 The effects of eye shadow colors on the perceived lightness of the reddish face in Experiment 1: The index system is the same as in Figure 1 (**p <.01). Figure 4 The effects of eye shadow colors on the perceived lightness of the yellowish face in Experiment 1: The index system is the same as in Figure 1 (*p <.05 and **p <.01).
294 Y. Kiritani, Y. Komuro, A. Okazaki, R. Takano, and N. Ookubo shadows, they took on both the hue and physical lightness of that eye shadow. The results suggested two differences between perceived redness and yellowness. First, the direction of dimension, or that of increase and decrease, differed. We found eye shadow colors that enhanced the perceptual redness of the face, but there were no eye shadow colors that made the face look less red. In contrast, for the perceived yellowness of the yellowish face, the face did not become perceptually yellower with any eye shadow colors, but became perceptually less yellow with certain eye shadow colors. The perceived redness of complexion can increase but not decrease, while the perceived yellowness of it can decrease but not increase. Neither were simple bipolar dimensions, as they each changed on one side only. Second, the effective values of a* or b* differed. For perceptual redness, the pinkish, light brownish, and violet eye shadows made the reddish face redder. As shown in Table 2, these colors had positive a* values. In other words, all colors with positive a* values (i.e., those with a reddish component) had a reddening effect. On the other hand, for perceptual yellowness, all eye shadow colors except for the yellowish and greenish ones had an anti-yellowing effect on the yellowish face. The colors in the first, second, and third quadrants of the a*b* space made the yellowish face less yellow. Although the light brownish eye shadow had a yellowish component, positive a*, this eye shadow did not make the yellowish face look yellower. Thus, the effective colors for perceptual change of a yellowish face may cover a wider space; if the color does not contain a positive b* value, this color of eye shadow can reduce the perceptual yellowness of a yellowish face; if the color contains a positive b* value but also contains a positive a* value, this color of eye shadow can also have a reduction effect. As for the perceptual hue change, Experiment 1 revealed that the reddish face became perceptually redder only with eye shadow colors with a reddish component and that the yellowish face could reduce its perceptual yellowness with any eye shadow colors except for clear yellowish or greenish colors. To confirm in more detail the features of perceived redness, yellowness, and lightness of complexion, we conducted Experiment 2, wherein we examined the eye shadows of evenly spaced colors in the L*a*b* space. Experiment 2 Method The apparatus, participants, procedure, and stimuli except for the eye shadow colors were the same as in Experiment 1. Stimuli. In this experiment, we used eight eye shadow colors: they were perceptually purplish, beige, moss-greenish, greenish, bluegreenish, teal-bluish, light-bluish, and violet, as shown in Table 3. The greenish, blue-greenish, and light-bluish eye shadow colors were also used in Experiment 1. The purplish, beige, moss-greenish, teal-bluish, and violet were new colors. The violet eye shadow in Experiment 2 physically differed from the violet eye shadow in Experiment 1, although they appeared similar. The colors were almost equally physically saturated to a modest degree, thereby allowing easy examination of the a*b* values. However, the colors with positive a* values had relatively smaller values because of limitations of our drawing skills. As shown in Table 3, all eye shadow colors had almost equal lightness. Results As in Experiment 1, the data were scaled using Scheffé s method (Nakaya version). ANOVAs were conducted to reveal the effect of eye shadow colors. CIs were calculated using a yardstick s Y to reveal the significant differences among the eye shadow colors. As for the perceived redness of the reddish face, an ANOVA showed that the main effect of eye shadow colors was significant, F(8, 720) = 8.892, p =.0001, η G 2 = 0.064. CIs of the difference between the face without eye shadow ( 0.144) and the faces with eye
Assimilation effects of eye shadow 295 Table 3 Indexes of eye shadow colors used in Experiment 2 Perceived color h C* a* b* Relative L* Luminance (cd/m 2 ) Purplish 338.52 15.45 14.38 5.66 52.02 56.02 Beige 47.22 12.62 8.57 9.26 52.42 57.08 M-greenish 112.06 18.05 6.78 16.73 52.28 56.70 Greenish 154.91 24.73 22.4 10.49 52.36 56.94 B-greenish 189.04 26.49 26.16 4.16 51.92 55.75 T-bluish 227.47 26.43 17.87 19.48 52.60 56.14 L-bluish 262.13 26.22 3.59 25.97 52.60 57.57 Violet 295.86 21.96 9.58 19.76 52.81 58.17 shadows revealed that the faces with the purplish (0.289) and violet (0.256) eye shadow colors were significantly different at 99% CI (0.351), so that these two eye shadows made the face look significantly redder. Other eye shadow colors had no significant effects on the perceived redness of the reddish faces. As for the perceived yellowness of the yellowish faces, an ANOVA showed that the main effect of eye shadow colors was significant, F(8, 720) = 15.112, p =.0001, η G 2 = 0.100. CIs of the difference between the face without eye shadow (0.178) and the faces with eye shadow were calculated. The violet ( 0.333), light bluish ( 0.244), and purplish ( 0.167) eye shadows made the face look significantly less yellow (99% CI, 0.292); and the beige eye shadow ( 0.056) also had an anti-yellowing effect at 95% CI (0.256). These eye shadow colors had a significant effect of perceptually anti-yellowing, not a yellowing effect; if these eye shadow colors were applied to yellowish faces, they seemed less yellow. The faces with other greenish eye shadow colors had no differences from the face without eye shadow; these eye shadow colors had neither a perceptually yellowing effect nor an anti-yellowing one. As in Experiment 1, there were no eye shadow colors that made the yellowish face yellower. As for the perceived lightness of the reddish face, an ANOVA showed that the main effect of eye shadow colors was significant, F(7, 560) = 11.624, p =.0001, η G 2 = 0.093. CIs of the difference between the face without eye shadow (0.511) and the faces with eye shadow were calculated. The differences were significant at 99% CI (0.322): versus mossgreenish eye shadow ( 0.211), versus light bluish ( 0.189), versus purplish ( 0.100), versus greenish ( 0.067), versus violet ( 0.044), versus blue-greenish ( 0.011), versus teal-bluish ( 0.011), and versus beige (0.122). In the perceived lightness of the reddish face in Experiment 2, the face without eye shadow was seen as lightest. To analyze the effect of eye shadow colors in detail, Pearson s correlation coefficient between the scale values and the luminance of the eye shadow was calculated; it was 0.107, F(1, 6) = 0.07, n.s. Although the effect of perceptual lightening or darkening of the eye shadow colors correlated with their physical lightness in Experiment 1, there was no relationship in Experiment 2. This may be explained by the difference of lightness among the eye shadow colors; in Experiment 2, they had almost the same lightness, as shown in Table 3. As for the perceived lightness of the yellowish face, an ANOVA showed that the main effect of eye shadow colors was significant, F(7, 560) = 10.439, p =.0001, η G 2 = 0.079. CIs of the difference between the face without eye shadow (0.444) and the faces with eye shadow were calculated. The differences were significant at the level of 99% CI (0.312): versus purplish eye shadow ( 0.233), versus beige ( 0.133), versus greenish ( 0.133), versus moss-greenish ( 0.089), versus blue-greenish ( 0.044), versus teal-bluish (0.000), versus violet (0.078), and versus light bluish (0.111). As with the reddish face, the face without eye shadow was perceived as lightest.
296 Y. Kiritani, Y. Komuro, A. Okazaki, R. Takano, and N. Ookubo Pearson s correlation coefficient between the scale values and the luminance of the eye shadow was 0.559, F(1, 6) = 2.73, n.s. Although the effect of perceptual lightening or darkening of the eye shadow colors correlated with their physical lightness in Experiment 1, this relationship was not confirmed in Experiment 2 for yellowish faces or for reddish ones. Considering the results of these analyses for perceived lightness, a clear fact about the perceived lightness of reddish and yellowish faces was that all eye shadow colors darkened the reddish and yellowish faces compared to the face without eye shadow. Eye shadow in general perceptually darkened the face, regardless of the original complexion. Discussion Experiment 2 examined how eight eye shadow colors influenced the complexion of a Japanese female face; these eye shadow colors included some low-chroma colors. Generally, we observed a similar assimilation effect as in Experiment 1; that is, an assimilation effect on perceived complexion by eye shadow colors. Moreover, several features were confirmed in Experiment 2. Although a basic rule was that the perceived redness was influenced by the colors with positive a*, some noted detailed constraints were found. First, if the color had a smaller positive a* value and the positive b* value was similar to that of the a*, the assimilation effect did not occur. For instance, the beige eye shadow in Experiment 2 had no perceptually reddening effect on the reddish face. However, a similar color, the light brownish color in Experiment 1, had this effect. The reason for these differing effects was likely due to the differing absolute amounts of a* and b* namely, the beige eye shadow had smaller a* and b* values than did the light brownish color in Experiment 1. In contrast, the ratio of the amounts of a* and b* was almost the same (i.e., both colors were reddish as well as yellowish). Thus, only colors with larger C* values induced the perceptual reddish assimilation effect on the reddish face, if the colors had the same amount of positive b*. Second, the negative b* value had no inhibitory effect on the assimilation of redness. The purplish and violet eye shadow colors both made the reddish face look redder, and both colors were in the second quadrant in the a*b* space. If the colors had a positive a* value, then the negative b* value of a bluish component would have no influence on the assimilation of the redness, as in Experiment 1. These results suggested that the positive a* value enhanced the assimilation effect of the perceptual redness, while the negative b* value did not inhibit this effect. Third, the low chroma did not affect the judgment of perceived hue of face. In Experiment 2, the purplish, beige, and moss-greenish eye shadow colors had rather low chroma. However, the purplish eye shadow had a perceptually reddening effect on the reddish face and a perceptual anti-yellowing effect on the yellowish face. As for perceptual lightness, the face without eye shadow was perceived as lightest, and all of the eye shadow colors made the faces look darker. The colors used in Experiment 2 had almost the same lightness, and in this condition, there would be no observable effect of colors. Otherwise, in Experiment 1, the yellowish eye shadow that had a much larger b* value would evoke a correlation between physical lightness and perceptual lightness. General Discussion Effect of Eye Shadow on Complexion Overall, certain eye shadow colors showed an assimilation effect on complexion. Specifically, eye shadow colors containing a reddish component made the reddish face appear redder. In Experiment 1, such eye shadows included the pinkish, light brownish, and violet colors, whereas in Experiment 2, they included the purplish color and a different shade of violet. Considering the physical features of these eye shadow colors, we can conclude that having high positive a* values or positive a* and
Assimilation effects of eye shadow 297 negative b* values could change the complexion of a reddish face. If the a* of the color was very high, the sign of the b* did not matter in Experiment 1, the light brownish eye shadow, whose color had high positive a* and b* values, made the reddish face look redder. However, if the a* value was smaller, a positive b* value did not generate the reddish assimilation effect in Experiment 2, the beige eye shadow, which had a smaller positive a* value and positive b* value, did not have a perceptual reddening effect on the reddish face. Notably, if the color had a positive a* value, the negative b* value had no inhibiting effect on the perceptual reddish assimilation effect in both experiments, colors in the second quadrant in the a*b* space all had perceptual reddening effects. It is evident that pinkish or purplish colors induce a perceptual reddish assimilation effect on a reddish face, but reddish colors containing yellowish components must be saturated and their hue clearly perceived to obtain a perceptual reddish assimilation effect. As for the yellowish face, we did not find any colors that made it look yellower. Neither yellowish eye shadow nor moss-greenish had this effect. However, many colors had a perceptual anti-yellowing effect. Considering the results of the two experiments, if the eye shadow colors were in the first, second, and third quadrants in the a*b* space, they had a perceptual anti-yellowing effect for the yellowish faces. The greenish component, the amount of negative a*, may have inhibited this effect, as the greenish eye shadow colors had no effects in either of the experiments. However, if the greenish colors contained a bluish component, the amount of negative b*, like bluish-green, these colors sometimes had an anti-yellowing effect (Experiment 1). The reddish component, the amount of positive a*, showed an inhibitory action, because the violet-like, pinkish, and brown-like colors also had an anti-yellowing effect. The brown-like colors, the light brownish, and the beige eye shadow colors, containing a yellowish component, the positive b*, also had an antiyellowing effect, but not a yellowing effect. Thus, we can say that effective colors for perceptual redness are generally colors with a reddish component and effective colors for perceptual anti-yellowness are colors other than yellow and green. The results concerning the perceived face colors in the present study were consistent with the findings of Kiritani et al. (2016): In both the reddish and the yellowish faces, some reddish eye shadow colors made the face look redder. Additionally, Kiritani et al. (2016) did not present colors to significantly make the faces look yellower. The perceived lightness corresponded to the physical lightness in the present study. The faces without eye shadow were perceived as lightest in both experiments, where rather bright face colors were used. Although the lighter eye shadow, the yellowish one in Experiment 1, had the same perceptual lightness as the face without eye shadow, usually eye shadow caused the face to appear darker. Experiment 1 shows that the perceptual darkening effect was in accordance with the physical lightness of eye shadow colors. Faces with exaggerated colors, either yellowish or reddish, are not preferred in Japan. According to our results, for the yellowish faces, it is not difficult to choose eye shadow colors to achieve a desirable complexion. The range of effective colors is wide in the case of anti-yellowness. However, reddish faces require attention when using eye shadow colors. If a reddish color is applied to reddish faces, they will look redder. There are no eye shadow colors to perceptually reduce their redness. Limitations of the Present Study Although we demonstrated an assimilation effect of eye shadow colors on perceptual completion, we realize there are problems with the experimental method. First, the participants answers may have been made with regard to the averaged redness or yellowness of the entire face. When a reddish eye shadow is put on a face, its physical redness naturally increases. Because the participants were instructed to look at the
298 Y. Kiritani, Y. Komuro, A. Okazaki, R. Takano, and N. Ookubo entire face and to evaluate it, they may simply have given the averaged redness of the entire face in reddish colors, not the perceived redness enhanced by the reddish eye shadows. Although we cannot deny this possibility, we would like to contest it. The averaged color hypothesis cannot explain the results of perceptual yellowness of the yellowish faces. There were no eye shadows that made the face look yellower. On the contrary, the light brownish eye shadow in Experiment 1 and the beige eye shadow in Experiment 2 had a perceptual anti-yellowing effect. These two eye shadows contain a physical yellowish component, a positive b* value. Moreover, this hypothesis does not explain all of the results of reddish faces either. The reddish face used in this study had a larger positive a* value than the violet eye shadow in Experiment 1 and the purple and another violet shade in Experiment 2. If this hypothesis were correct, then evaluation of the face with these eye shadows would be lower than the face without eye shadow. Instead, the eye shadows made the reddish face look redder. To prevent the possibility of the averaged color of faces, we will need to measure the perceptual color change of skin excluding the eye area for example, just the cheek area in further studies. Second, we used averaged faces presented on a monitor whose eye shadow colors were not real, but simulated. Their artificiality cannot be denied. In fact, applying eye shadow to the simulated faces caused them to lose their eyelashes. Although we prepared the faces with eye shadow according to advice from professionals, applying makeup to the stimuli used in the present study might have appeared odd. Next, the results were derived only from females aged in their 20s who applied their own makeup daily. We selected these participants for the following reasons. The age was decided because the stimuli that we prepared were the averaged faces of young Japanese women. We considered that it might be easier to judge the makeup of targets of a similar age. The reason for limiting participation to women was that they were considered to have a delicate sensibility concerning makeup. In daily life, women find it easy to notice just a slight change of makeup. Similarly, we limited the participants to women who applied their own makeup daily. However, to verify the generalizability of the effects found in the present study, different types of participant populations will need to be sampled. As mentioned in the introduction, Kiritani et al. (2016) confirmed that some reddish eye shadow colors perceptually made both reddish and yellowish faces appear redder. The present study confirmed this fact in our results and concluded that the eye shadows showed a kind of assimilation effect on perceptual complexion. However, in the present study, we adopted paired comparisons, a method that might be criticized. In paired comparisons, the participants are forced to choose a stimulus, so that this method is suitable for measuring subtle differences among stimuli but there is a danger of producing something that is not perceived. Moreover, this method limited the number of stimuli, so that we did not examine the evaluation of perceptual redness in the yellowish face and that of perceptual yellowness in the reddish one. As shown in the introduction, the color assimilation effect by makeup is experienced daily by persons who apply their own makeup. The present study demonstrated the phenomenon with limited use of makeup. Nevertheless, to reinforce the present study, another approach, such as psychophysical measurement, will be needed. Finally, confirming the results using other configurations besides faces is not of trivial importance. We concluded that the assimilation effect in the present study was a kind of visual echo illusion (Morikawa, 2012, 2017). However, we used only face stimuli and we cannot say whether the phenomenon occurs only in the face stimuli; we cannot say anything about whether a pinkish patch, for example, induces a color assimilation effect to the surrounding area. Further study will be needed to resolve these issues.
Assimilation effects of eye shadow 299 Conclusion We examined how eye shadow colors influence complexion. The results indicated that eye shadow colors have an assimilation effect (i.e., they shifted the complexion toward the eye shadow color) concerning hue and lightness. This perceptual change represents an example of the visual echo illusion (Morikawa, 2012, 2017) for color. The results also suggest two possibilities regarding perceptual judgments of complexion. First, the perceived redness of faces could be enhanced by eye shadow colors but not reduced. Second, on the contrary, the perceived yellowness could not be increased according to the eye shadow colors but decreased. The effective eye shadow colors on perceived redness were colors that contained a reddish component; if there was a reddish component, the bluish component did not matter. The range of effective colors on perceived yellowness was wide; colors apart from yellowish or greenish ones had antiyellowing effects. Even if yellowish or greenish eye shadow were applied to a yellowish face, the face did not become perceptually yellower than the original face. References Aoki, N., Suzuki, M., & Kobayashi, H. (2003). On the preferred flesh color: An evaluation by selecting memory-color. Journal of the Institute of Image Information and Television Engineers, 57, 409 412. (In Japanese.) Fan, Y., Deng, P., Tsuruoka, H., Aoki, N., & Kobayashi, H. (2010). On the preferred flesh color of Japanese and Chinese and the determining factors: Investigation of the younger generation using method of successive categories and semantic differential method. Society of Photography and Imaging of Japan, 73, 31 38. (In Japanese.) Fink, B., Grammer, K., & Matts, P. J. (2006). Visible skin color distribution plays a role in the perception of age, attractiveness, and health in female faces. Evolution and Human Behavior, 27, 433 442. doi: 10.1016/j.evolhumbehav.2006. 08.007 Futagawa, A., Hirayama, K., & Yamazaki, K. (2009). The effect of skin color in décolleté on the impression of facial skin brightness. Journal of Japanese Academy of Facial Studies, 9, 240. Gómez, C. (2008). Brown outs: The role of skin color and Latinas. In R. E. Hall (Ed.), Racism in the 21st century: An empirical analysis of skin color (pp. 193 204). New York, NY: Springer. Han, H., & Fuchida, T. (2013). Preferred skin color feeling of animation face images with makeup. Journal of the Color Science Association of Japan, 37, 348 349. Inoue, S. (2001). Kao no komyunikeshon [Face communication]. In I. Daibo (Ed.), Kesho koudou no shakaisinrigaku [Social psychology of makeup behavior] (pp. 12 21). Kyoto, Japan: Kitaoji. (In Japanese, title translated by the author of this article.) Kiritani, Y., Komuro, Y., Okazaki, A., Takano, R., & Ookubo, N. (2016). Perceptual hue change of brighter facial skin color induced by eye shadows: A pilot study for color theory of makeup. Bulletin of Japanese Society for the Science of Design, 62, 1 10. Kiritani, Y., Ushikubo, M., & Takano, R. (2004). Impressions of color combination of make-up cosmetics in different media. Journal of Japan Society of Kansei Engineering, 5, 27 32. Miura, K., & Saito, M. (2003). Color combination of skin and hair from the viewpoint of color harmony. Journal of the Color Science Association of Japan, 27(Suppl.), 86 87. (In Japanese.) Morikawa, K. (2012). New directions in research on visual illusions of shape and size relate to the human face and body: Illusions caused by makeup and clothing. Japanese Psychological Review, 55, 348 361. Morikawa, K. (2017). Geometric illusions in the human face and body. In A. Shapiro & D. Todorovic (Eds.), The Oxford compendium of visual illusions (pp. 252 257). Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press. Nakaya, S. (1970). Scheffé no ittuihikakuhou no itihenpou [A variation of Scheffé s analysis of variance for paired comparisons]. Proceedings of the 11th Meeting of Sensory Tests by Union of Japanese Scientists and Engineers (pp. 1 12). (In Japanese, title translated by the author of this article.) Nestor, A., & Tarr, M. J. (2008). Gender recognition of human faces using color. Psychological Science, 19, 1242 1246. Perreira, K. M., & Telles, E. E. (2014). The color of health: Skin color, ethnoracial classification, and discrimination in the health of Latin Americans. Social Science and Medicine, 116, 241 250. doi: 10.1016/j.socscimed.2014.05.054
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