Tests and testing Trainer requirements to teach this lesson For this session you will need the following: Research.2b (from the previous session) Handout.3.1 Slide.3.1 Activity.3.2a Handout.3.2 Activity.3.2b Swatches of hair for testing virgin, tinted, bleached, over bleached, hair with progressive colour applied, hair coloured with henna or vegetable colour A selection of colours with their developers Liquid hydrogen peroxide Ammonium hydroxide Tinting bowls and brushes PPE Plastic wallets to contain the results of the tests Handout.3.3 Activity.3.3 Manufacturers instructions for quasi and permanent colours Handout.3.4 (2 pages) Handout.3.5 Slide.3.6 Activity.3.6 Activity.3.6 (answer guide) Handout.3.7 (2 pages) Learner Check Session 3 Trainer notes The session will cover: 3.1. The types and purposes of the tests in the range and when they should be done 3.2. How tests should be carried out and the expected results 3.3. The importance of following manufacturers instructions for skin testing 3.4. How the results of tests can influence the colouring and lightening service Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 57 - Unit - Session 3.
3.5. The potential consequences of failing to carry out tests and why it is important to record test results 3.6. The courses of action to take in the event of adverse reactions to tests and the contraindications in the range 3.7. How to use bleach safely and the precautions that must be taken when handling powder bleach 3.8 The importance of constantly monitoring the development of lightener Tell learners that careful development of bleaching and lightening must be carried out to avoid any damage to hair by over-processing. This will also prevent the required colour not being achieved because the colour was under-processed. Explain that: bleaching and lightening products do not always have a set development time, therefore the development must be monitored frequently when applying lighteners consideration must be given to where on the head the colour application started and the technique used. For example, a full head of highlights on long hair may take a long time to apply and the area where the application started may be fully developed before the application is finished. Ref: Research.2b Discuss the findings of the learners relating to public and treatment liability. Follow up any learners who appear not to have this cover. Page 58 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Tests and testing 3.1. The types and purposes of the tests in the range and when they should be done Some learners may have covered this area of learning before, for example for Level 2. However, it is worth recapping and reiterating the importance of testing for colouring services. Ref: Handout.3.1 Explain to learners (or remind them if they have covered this area of learning before) that tests are required before and during colouring services and that hair and skin tests are a vital aspect of consultation prior to colouring services. Emphasise that, if a client refuses to have any of the hair or skin tests, then they must not receive a colour service. Tell learners that, when carrying out the tests, they should tell the client what they are doing and why they are doing it. This information must be given using non-technical language. It is important that the client knows that learners are conducting tests and taking due care of their hair and skin. Ref: Slide.3.1 Show the slide and go over the tests, explaining why they are done and stating when they are done. 3.2. How tests should be carried out and the expected results Ref: Activity.3.2a As you explain the tests, ask learners to complete the activity sheet. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 59 - Unit - Session 3.
In order to check how much previous knowledge they have, allow learners to work out the answers for themselves, before confirming their findings. Elasticity test Tell learners to support the hair at the root to prevent client discomfort. Emphasise that, if there is a great deal of stretch in the hair and it does not spring back, it is likely that the hair will break during the colouring process Hair stretches more when wet than when dry. Ask learners why this is. The answer should be that the polypeptide chain is able to stretch more when the hydrogen and salt bonds have been broken and water breaks them. Porosity test Tell learners that porosity can have a double effect - if the hair is porous it will absorb the colour more quickly but if it is very porous not only will it absorb more quickly but also the colour will wash out more quickly. Tell learners to check the porosity along the length of the hair shaft. It is likely to differ from roots which are less porous to ends which are more porous. Ask learners what causes the variation in porosity. Answers should include: chemical damage due to previous chemical treatments, i.e. colour, bleach, perming physical damage due to weathering, styling and general wear and tear heat damage use of straighteners and tongs Page 60 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Ask learners how porosity can be evened out. Answers should include: by applying a pre-colour treatment to even out porosity by carrying out a series of deep conditioning treatments to improve the overall condition of the hair Incompatibility test Remind learners to wear PPE when conducting this test. Tell them that they may need to leave the cutting in the solution for a considerable amount of time up to 1 /2 an hour, to allow the reaction to take place. Ask learners to describe a negative result to an incompatibility test. Answer should include: signs of heating, discolouration, bubbling or fizzing Ask why it is important to use liquid peroxide in an incompatibility test. Answer should be: because cream may be too heavy to allow a true reaction to be seen Skin test Tell learners to check manufacturers instructions. Explain there will be differences. Some manufacturers state that the colour should be mixed with hydrogen peroxide, while others state that neat colour should be used. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 61 - Unit - Session 3.
Further, say that while some manufacturers say to use the same depth as the intended colour, some say use a shade darker than chosen. Ask learners to state the results of a negative skin test. Answer should be: there is no reaction to the skin or surrounding area Colour Test Say that the intended colour of lightener is applied to the test cutting and processed according to manufacturers instructions. Remind learners that the hair taken for a test cutting is cut at an angle using slicing scissor actions to ensure the client cannot see where the cutting has been removed from. Ask learners if they can think of an example when they would have to take a cutting from the roots to the points of the hair. Answer should be if the hair length might give inconsistent results. For example, the hair may be resistant at the roots but, due to a previous chemical process, is porous on the ends. Therefore, the colour will need to be applied on the whole of the hair length to provide a true representation of the final result. Strand test Explain that this test is done to let the stylist check the development of a colour and is particularly important when using bleach. Emphasise that a colour test and a strand test are two entirely different tests, they are done for different reasons and in different ways. Page 62 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Ask learners how the strand test for colour development differs from the strand test for the development of bleach. Answer should be that the test for colour will be at the end of the pre-set development time. The test for bleach will be a constant, frequent check of the changes in hair colour until the correct level of lightness is achieved. Ref: Handout.3.2 Use the handout to provide an explanation of how to carry out the tests and as confirmation of the previous activity. Ref: Activity.3.2b For this activity you need some pre-prepared hair swatches. You need a variety of swatches if learners are to see the differences the testing can make. It is desirable to have the following selection of hair swatches: virgin hair tinted hair bleached hair over bleached hair hair that has been coloured with a progressive (metallic) colourant, e.g. compound henna, Grecian 2000, Just for Men, etc. hair which has been coloured with henna or another vegetable colour Plus: a small selection of colours with their developers liquid hydrogen peroxide ammonium hydroxide tinting bowls and brushes PPE plastic wallets to retain results Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 63 - Unit - Session 3.
Elasticity and porosity test Ask learners to carry out a series of tests, starting with an elasticity test and a porosity test. Demonstrate how to carry out these tests if anyone is unsure of the procedure. Ask them to do the tests on each other, on a client in the salon or on a colleague in the salon. Ensure that learners test in different areas of their colleagues heads to show how porosity and elasticity can vary. Point out to learners that there may be an uneven amount of porosity on some hair. For example, if the hair has recently had a chemical treatment the ends may be very porous but the new hair (regrowth) may be normal or resistant. Then ask learners to try the same tests on the hair swatches. Now ask the learners to work with the hair swatches. Encourage them to try different hair types from the available range of samples. The hair which has been highly bleached will give more impressive results if it has been bleached to breaking point. On this hair, learners should be able to feel the roughness of the cuticle and they will be able to see that the hair stretches but does not return to its normal length. Skin test and incompatibility test Encourage learners to act as clients for each other when doing the skin test and carry the incompatibility test out on a hair sample that is treated with a progressive dye. Demonstrate the methods of conducting a skin test and an incompatibility test for anyone who is unsure. Supervise learners when they carry out the tests, ensuring that they wear PPE. Negative results for incompatibility tests are rare. Therefore, try to find a sample of hair that is coated with a progressive dye (containing metallic salts) to illustrate a positive result. Page 64 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Strand test Allocate a small amount of different colourants and ask learners to apply these to some of the hair swatches. It may be useful to apply the same colour to hair of differing conditions and types to see how the result can vary from one hair type to another. For example, apply one colour on virgin hair, chemically treated hair and very over processed hair. Use a strand test to check the development of the colour and examine the results on the different hair types. Following the testing, recommend to learners that they keep the completed sheet with a hair swatch in the appropriate sections to remind themselves of the tests. The results of the activity can also be used as supporting evidence for some of the NVQ/SVQ requirements. Further, the results can be kept in their salon to alert other members of staff to the need for testing. 3.3. The importance of following manufacturers instructions for skin testing Ref: Handout.3.3 Explain to learners that the important reasons for following manufacturers instructions for skin testing are to: identify any allergic reactions maintain the professional image of the salon fulfil their responsibilities relating to health & safety and other legislation In addition, tell learners that manufacturers can only be held liable in a claim for compensation if the manufacturers instructions have been followed to the letter. Ref: Activity.3.3 Manufacturers instructions for permanent and quasi colours Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 65 - Unit - Session 3.
Provide learners with a selection of manufacturers instructions relating to colouring. Ask them to look at each manufacturer s instructions for skin testing checking to see if the instructions are clear and concise? Ask learners on which types of clients a skin test must be carried out. Answers should include those clients who: have never had a permanent colour before have never had a quasi colour before are changing to another brand or type of colour are new to the salon (even if they have had a colour before) have had a colour that has grown out more than 8cms (1 1 /2 inches) Tell learners that a skin test can also be known as a: patch test pre-disposition test allergy test Sabouraud-Rousseau test hypersensitivity test Explain that clients who have other known allergies, or who are asthmatic or have eczema, are more likely to have allergies to colour. Stress that anyone can become sensitised to colour at anytime. Remind learners that when carrying out a consultation for colouring or lightening hair, they should ask clients about any allergies they may have. Page 66 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
3.4. How the results of tests can influence the colouring and lightening service Ref: Handout.3.4 (2 pages) Tell learners that the results of tests are very important and must be considered when carrying out colour correction services. Explain that there is no point in doing a test if subsequent decisions are not based on the result. Say that, for some tests, a positive result is a good result. Emphasise that one exception to this is skin testing. State that, if a skin test is positive, it means that the client is allergic to the product and the service must not be done. Use the handout to explain the results of the following tests: 1. elasticity test 2. porosity test 3. incompatibility test 4. strand test 5. skin test 6. colour test 3.5. The potential consequences of failing to carry out tests and why it is important to record test results Emphasise to learners that if they do not carry out the necessary tests they are in danger of causing damage to the client s hair or skin. Ref: Handout.3.5 Use the handout to explain the dangers of failing to carry out the tests. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 67 - Unit - Session 3.
Recording test results Tell learners that it is important that they record the results of all tests so that: it will give information about the condition of the client s hair, the service that can be provided and the products to use if litigation arises, they have documented evidence to support their case good background information is available for future reference the professional image of the salon is maintained Remind learners that the results of the tests must be recorded on the client s record. 3.6. The courses of action to take in the event of adverse reactions to tests and the contraindications in the range Emphasise to learners that it is increasingly important that they take great care when carrying out colouring and lightening services. Say that they have to be sure that they have taken reasonable care. Ref: Slide.3.6 Show the slide and discuss the problems with the learners. Help them to decide on the best course of action to be taken in each instance. Ref: Activity.3.6 Activity:.3.6 (answer guide) Following the discussion, give a copy of the activity for the learners to record their findings. Use the answer guide to confirm their results. Page 68 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
3.7. The dangers associated with the inhalation of powder bleach, how to use bleach safely and the precautions to be taken when handling powder bleach. Ref: Handout.3.7 (2 pages) Explain to learners that many bleaches are made of very fine powder that can be very dangerous if inhaled. Say that in some cases, the powder is so fine that more of it than may be imagined can be inhaled without the person coughing or being uncomfortable. Tell learners that before the bleach reaches the lungs the powder must pass through the mouth, nose and respiratory tract. Few stylists take this into consideration and they assume that if they didn t cough it hasn t reached their lungs so it won t have done any damage. Therefore, recommend that learners wear a face mask when preparing powder bleach. Suggestion Take some talcum powder and shake it into a bowl, see how the dust rises, exactly the same happens with bleach powder. If bleach powder is inhaled and ingested it can cause burning of the throat and, in severe cases, asphyxiation. Point out that some manufacturers now produce a dust free bleach powder which is suitable for use without a mask. Summarise the main dangers associated with the use of powder bleach: damage to the lungs damage to the mucous producing tissues of the mouth and nose damage to the respiratory tract Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 69 - Unit - Session 3.
Using bleach safely Ask learners to give examples of how to use bleach safely. Answers should include: wearing PPE when using bleach ensure that the client s clothing and skin are protected all hair analysis tests must be carried out prior to a bleach application using the correct strength to achieve the required amount of lift choosing appropriate products i.e. some are for hair only, others can come into contact with the scalp do not overlap bleach applications checking the development of bleach read and follow manufacturers instructions do not add heat to bleach, unless instructed to do so remove all traces of bleach following completion of development Ref: Handout.3.7 (continued) Use the handout to expand on the points above. Remind learners that precision, care and attention are all required when working with bleach. Tell them that bleaching hair is a task during which human error can result in damage to the client s hair, scalp and psychological state. Say that PPE must be worn when applying bleach and that clients clothing must be protected. Stress to learners that they must ensure they carry out all the relevant tests before applying bleach to hair. Prior to application: elasticity porosity incompatibility Page 70 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
During application development test Explain that the strength of hydrogen peroxide used depends on the degree of lift required and say that the higher the strength the greater the potential damage to the hair (and scalp). State that, if bleach is to be applied to the scalp, only a mild solution should be used. Emphasise that powder bleach is not normally gentle enough to be put onto the scalp; oil or emulsion bleach is less harsh. Remind learners that body heat will lead to a quicker development of bleach applied at the root area. Draw attention to the fact that bleach applications must not overlap as this could cause breakage of the hair. Tell them to time their application, to work quickly and methodically - the quicker the application the more even the result. Stress that they must not leave bleach unattended. Remind them that, unlike colour development, bleach will continue to develop until it is rinsed from the hair. Remind learners that as with any product, they must read and follow manufacturers instructions. In particular, tell learners that they must not add heat to develop the bleach unless specifically instructed to do so. Tell learners to remove all traces of bleach when processing is completed. Explain that any bleach left in the hair will continue to process and will cause damage to the hair and/or scalp. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 71 - Unit - Session 3.
3.8. The importance of constantly monitoring the development of lightener Tell learners that careful development of bleaching and lightening must be carried out to avoid any damage to hair by over-processing. This will also prevent the required colour not being achieved because the colour was under- processed. Explain that: bleaching and lightening products do not always have a set development time, therefore the development must be monitored frequently when applying lighteners consideration must be given to where on the head the colour application started and the technique used. For example, a full head of highlights on long hair may take a long time to apply and the area where the application started may be fully developed before the application is finished. Now use the Learner Check for Session 3 to check the understanding of the learners. Page 72 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Salon and legal requirements How to work safely, effectively and hygienically when colouring hair (part 1) Learner Check 1. If a client refuses to allow you to take a cutting of her hair to carry out an incompatibility test what should you do? 1. If you suspect the presence of a material that may react badly with the chemicals which you intend to use on the client s hair it would be prudent to refuse to do the work until the test is done 2. When conducting an incompatibility test what are you checking for? 3. Describe a positive result to a skin test. 2. The presence of metallic salts 3. The area will be irritated, possibly inflamed, itchy, weeping, etc. 4. What must you remember to do when using more than one colour for test cuttings? 5. What might happen if you fail to follow all the safety procedures and the client s skin is chemically burned? 6. How can personal hygiene be assured? 7. Give two reasons why it is important to constantly monitor the development of lightener 4. You must label each cutting clearly. 5. The client is likely to win a claim for compensation 6. By bathing or showering, by cleaning teeth and by changing clothing that comes into contact with skin every day 7. To avoid damage to the hair to achieve the required result Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 73 - Unit - Session 3.
Page 74 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Tests and testing Trainer Summary 3.1. The types and purposes of the tests in the range and when they should be done Remind learners of the list of tests in the range, recap why and when they are done: elasticity porosity incompatibility test cutting skin test In addition, recap on strand tests. 3.2. How tests should be carried out and the expected results Remind learners of the methods of conducting the tests and of the results they should look for. 3.3. The importance of following manufacturers instructions for skin testing recap on the necessity for skin testing remind learners that manufacturers instructions differ 3.4. How the results of tests can influence the colouring and lightening service Remind learners of: the need to base decisions on the results of tests the need to refuse to provide the service in some circumstances 3.5. The potential consequences of failing to carry out tests and why it is important to record test results Remind learners of the importance of testing and recap on the potential consequences of not testing. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 75 - Unit - Session 3.
Stress the reasons for recording all test results remind learners of the increasing incidence of claims for compensation. 3.6. The courses of action to take in the event of adverse reactions to tests and the contraindications in the range Recap on the different situations discussed in Activity H28.3.6 and remind learners on the best course of action to take. 3.7. The dangers associated with the inhalation of bleach powder, how to use bleach safely and the precautions that must be taken when handling powder bleach Remind learners that: damage to the lungs damage to the mucous producing tissues of the mouth and nose damage to the respiratory tract can all occur if powder bleached is inhaled. Recap on the ways of using bleach safely. In particular, remind learners to: wear PPE when using bleach ensure that the client s clothing and skin are protected carry out hair analysis use the correct strength to achieve the required amount of lift choose appropriate products not to overlap bleach applications check the development of bleach read and follow manufacturers instructions not to add heat to bleach, unless instructed to do so remove all traces of bleach following completion of development Page 76 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
3.8. The importance of constantly monitoring the development of lightener Remind learners that bleaching and lightening products do not always have a set development time and the development must be monitored frequently to avoid the colour being under or over-processed. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 77 - Unit - Session 3.
Tests and testing Key/Core Skill Opportunities There will be an opportunity to promote discussion when covering:.3.2.3.6.3.7 Hair tests Adverse reactions How to use bleach safely There will be an opportunity to improve own learning when:.3.2 Completing the various hair tests Page 78 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.