2/20/12 Beyond Design By Sandra J. Keiser and Myrna B. Garner PowerPoint developed by Elizabeth Law Copyright 2009 Fairchild Books All rights reserved. No part of this presentation covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems without written permission of the publisher. ISBN: 978-1-56367-960-5 GST R 133004424 Sizing and Fit Chapter 11 Beyond Design 1
Chapter Objectives Define sizing as interpreted in today s market Examine history of voluntary sizing standards Identify size categories of women s, men s, and children s apparel Define fit and its components 4 Chapter Objectives Understand role of dress forms and fit models Understand use of grading 5 Sizing Sizing - assignment of individuals of particular body type into categories that reflect the body measurements of those in that size group Sizing issues common to all categories of clothing but more fully documented in women s ready-to-wear Major source of sizing problems diversity of U.S. population FTC, DOC attempted to standardize; no mandatory standards in U.S. 6 2
History of Women s Apparel Sizing Charts developed to reflect groupings of young and mature women First American sizing charts catalog firms needed some consistency in measurements Original charts inadequate with increasing diversity in population 7 First Sizing Systems Data collected by military in 1941 from women in the U.S. Army at the time Revised by NIST in 1971 to reflect ethnic diversity and age group representation Original military data reworked and adapted several times 1994 ASTM published revision reflecting what was believed to be measurements in use 8 Updates 1980s University of Arizona at Tucson study of women over age 55; reflected need for fitting changes for mature consumers Last decade ASTM updated size ranges for petites and women s sizes, added maternity Many consumers, manufacturers, and retailers agree that voluntary sizing does not represent women s body measurements 9 3
New Body Measurement Data SizeUSA anthropomorphic study; purpose was to gather actual body measurement data on U.S. consumers using a 3D measurement system and body scanner and feed data into measurement extraction software Janice Wang cause of ill-fitting garments is industry misconception of hourglass figure as dominant body shape 10 New Body Measurement Data Using SizeUSA data, Istook defined body shapes with four dominant types: Rectangle shape Spoon shape Inverted triangle Hourglass Dominant shape closer to pear shape than hourglass Only 10 to 20 percent of most groups fit ASTM standard size tables 11 Women s Sizing Sized for adult women; assigned numbers that reflect relationship of height, bust, waist, hip, and torso length measurements Grade difference from one size to next in range Sample size represents body measurements from which full size range is developed Commonly use midsize as sample size 12 4
Women s Sizing Variations from one company to another can be extreme Manufacturing contributing to size confusion by vanity sizing - placing smaller size label on larger size garment Size migration customer typically fits into range of three or more sizes, depending on manufacturer and cut of garment 13 Women s Sizing Consumers putting pressure on manufacturers to improve sizing systems Pressure expected to increase with nonstore purchases, (catalog and internet sales) Chicos unique sizing system, sizes 0-3 Intellifit company uses scanner to collect store data (David s Bridal) 14 Women s Sizing Categories Misses Petites Talls Women s Plus Women s Petites Juniors Maternity Other intimate wear, gloves 15 5
Men s Sizing Men s wear more consistent than sizing of women s wear, because men s styles do not fluctuate as much as women s Categories Suits, jackets, and coats Pants Men s Furnishings shirts underwear sleepwear ties and accessories Young men s 16 Children s Sizing Categories Infants Toddlers Children s Girls Boys 17 Metrics and Sizing The U.S. is currently the only country in the world that does not use metric system Many countries refuse to accept products not graded according to metric system; garments produced here for export may require metric labels 18 6
Garment Fit Biggest complaint from consumers about apparel products is that customers cannot find something that fits Sizing is based on body measurements, whereas fit is based on garment measurements Fit conformance of garments to shape and size of the individuals wearing them 19 Elements of Garment Fit Grain reflects direction of threads in fabric On-grain: threads meet at exactly 90 degrees Off-grain: garments will hang unevenly Bias: tend to stretch out as they hang Set reflects smooth fit with no unwanted wrinkles Line way garment structural lines conform to the body 20 Elements of Garment Fit Balance right and left sides of body look even Ease difference between body measurements of intended wearer and measurements of finished garment Functional Ease or wearing ease amount added to body measurements to compensate for body movements required in order for garment to be worn 21 7
Elements of Garment Fit Ease (cont.) Design Ease reflects amount added to combined body and functional ease measurements to make garment produce the look desired by designer Ease varies depending on garment style, intended use, and fashion of the time 22 Elements of Garment Fit 23 Forms and Fit Models Styling and fit evaluated throughout product development cycle Sample garments produced and placed on dress forms to evaluate grain, set, line, and balance To establish appropriate ease, sample garments tried on by fit models individuals selected to represent age and build of the target customer and conform to master size Chapter 11: 11: Sizing and Fit Fit 24 8
Grading Grading process of scaling the master size of garment to the range of sizes to be produced Amounts added (or subtracted) from each measurement as it changes from one size to the next grade rules Grade rule tables sets of measurements that reflect increments between sizes for each of the grade rules 25 Grading Circumference Grading Length Grading Width Grading Uneven Grading or nonlinear grading is achieved when it is determined that the target customer is shaped somewhat differently than standards in sizing charts 26 Mass Customization Mass produced apparel was not designed to accommodate uneven grading Body scanning and computerized alteration programs now make mass customization a possibility Mass customization application of mass production techniques to production of a single customer-configured garment 27 9