DEAR JOHN AUTUMN 2017 A tale of loss, love, reinvention... and the tweed coat he left behind...
MIDDY BLOUSE 1920s Miss Saratoga vintage middy top. The tops were adapted from Navy garb, and worn by girls & women for activewear & fashion in the 20s through 40s DIXIE CUP HAT The so-called Dixie cup style, standard for Navy men, became part of a unisex uniform for Navy women in April 2016. Below, Kelli O Hara in South Pacific revival, 2008 Antonio Marras FW 2011 Marras initiated a cut-and-paste aesthetic with a collection inspired by his mother, Nannina, who would recut mens suits to create chic ensembles in 1940s Sardinia. ROTHCO MILITARY QUILTED LINING Rothco began on Great Jones Street in NYC in 1953 DEAR JOHN ANATOMY of a LOOK ARGYLE SOCKS Knitting was a big part of the WW2 effort at home. Hand-knitted socks were sturdier, cheaper, and reminded soldiers of loving hands at home HARRIS TWEED Harris tweed, from the Outer Hebrides, is still made from local wool; the yarns were originally dyed with local plants & lichens, giving it its distinctive nature-based color palette SOCK STYLE Early 70s fashion was influenced by 30s & 40s styles. Left, socks & sturdy pumps from Vogue UK 1973 ON THE STREET Women layer military pieces or tweed coats with 30s-type wide leg pants. Silk scarves add color. Prada
DEAR JOHN COLOR STORY PANTONE 1029 PANTONE 1029 PANTONE 1029 PANTONE 1029 PANTONE 1029 PANTONE 1029 PANTONE 1029 Rich plummy brown anchors the new warmcast palette Cosmetic tones soften a gender-neutral approach Golden olive as a fresh workwear color alone or mixed in plaids Deep navy replaces black for tailored pieces or sailor dresses Charcoal gray as menswear basic, to mix with rest of palette Olive drab is a base neutral for tops, bottoms, coats Misty gray for heathery knits & menswear tweeds Joseph
+ + = Veronica Lake Billie Holiday WW2 Poster DEAR JOHN FORMULA LOOK WW2 WAC meets 40s Chanteuse at the Paddington Station WHO DID IT BEST Prada, Galliano for Margiela TREND Uniforms & tweeds mixed with romantic pieces & furs TRIBE Femme + Scout TOTEMS Perfect Army Jacket / Red lipstick / Argyle tights RITUALS Listens to Great American Songbook on Spotify Feels sexiest in granny panties Hoards red lipsticks CORE VALUES Practicality, Authenticity, Provenance, Romance credit: Important Person Prada
DEAR JOHN KEY LOOKS We are making do, piecing & patching what we can... Joseph Miu Miu Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Maison Margiela HANDKNIT LINGERIE During WW2 handknitting was part -of the war effort at home in US & UK MOSES SOYER SEAMSTRESSES Moses & brother Raphael Soyer were social realists painting everyday depression-era people BUFFALO PLAID Teenagers in the 1940s wore boyswear plaid shirts with rolled up jeans. Photo by Nina Leen, 1944 COCKTAIL DRESS 1940s 40s cocktail sheaths had festive details like gathers or lace insets, now collaged onto everyday ensembles
DEAR JOHN / PATTERN PLAID FOR YOU DAKS Derek Lam Marc Jacobs... recutting plaid blankets & old suits into new clothes... Bottega Veneta DAKS Marques Almeida Plaids are yarn-dyed or printed onto cottons, silks or velvets / Earthtone combos / Larger scales uptrend
DEAR JOHN / DETAILS LINGERIE DRAWER Joseph Bottega Veneta Joseph... we still love lingerie, but now it's about expressing femininity our own way... Pringle of Scotland Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Pringle of Scotland Bra details for tops, dresses, knits or sweaters / Contoured underwire effects / Seams emphasize shape
... somehow we are piecing & patching together a new identity... Dsquared2 Haider Ackermann Anthony Vaccarello Bottega Veneta Prada Sacai Margaret Howell Pieced materials / Tweeds mix with solids / Laced details / Contrast binding / Covered buttons DEAR JOHN / DETAILS PIECE TIME
DEAR JOHN / SWEATERS LOVING HANDS Diane Von Furstenberg A Détacher Joseph Knitting for the boys... we make ourselves a few things too... mistakes make it personal Pringle of Scotland Bottega Veneta Lemaire Hand-knitted feel / Attention to yoke area / Rounded sleeves / Space-dye yarns / Imperfect, crafty effects
DEAR JOHN / WOVEN SHIRTS SHIRT FACTORY Lemaire Margaret Howell Diane Von Furstenberg Shirts are our new uniform... we wear them to the factory, to the office & to dinner... Rag & Bone Vetements Margaret Howell Man-tailored shirts / Point collars / Solids or plaids / Washed satin / Extended shoulders for advanced styles
DEAR JOHN / SKIRTS SKIRT CHASE We cut our skirts creatively to save fabric... Zero waste is our motto... Marchesa Balmain Karen Walker Wrap skirts / Wide self-belts / Asymmetric flounce details / Natural or high-waisted / Below knee or longer
I wish I had a closet full of dresses... Gareth Pugh Isabel Marant Balmain Menswear plaids to rich brocades / Sheath shapes / Below-knee length gains momentum DEAR JOHN / DRESSES DRESS RACK Erdem Prada Celine
DEAR JOHN / PANTS WEARS THE PANTS... but really I just want to wear pants all the time... DEAR JOHN Diane Von Furstenberg Creatures of Comfort Pringle of Scotland Slouchy trousers are a must-have for next fall / Large scale menswear plaids / Plain or pleat front / Full legs
DEAR JOHN / SUITS TAILOR SHOP I've decided to recut some of your tweedy suits... DEAR JOHN Creatures of Comfort 3.1 Phillip Lim Nina Ricci Matched or mismatched tailored pieces / Coat over bermudas / Rib-knit cuffs for pants / Shapely or roomy blazers
DEAR JOHN / OUTERWEAR COAT COLLAGE... And I cut up my fox stole & trimmed your old woolen bathrobe with it... DEAR JOHN Christopher Kane Prada Pringle of Scotland Tweedy coats with fur deep trims / Ratty yarn pile, fake fur or the real thing / Furry sleeves / The cape uptrends
DEAR JOHN / OUTERWEAR SHEAR NOT... Through it all, we hide our tender hearts behind a tough exterior... DEAR JOHN Balmain Sacai Maison Margiela The aviator jacket get recut & reimagined / Shearling facing & trim / Suede or distressed leather / New basic
DEAR JOHN / OUTERWEAR TRENCH TALK... swashbuckling into the future... DEAR JOHN Vetements Balmain Miu Miu The trenchcoat is ever appropriate / Newness comes from slipping shoulders / Sleeveless layering trench is fresh
... and well, I met someone new & I'm switching my allegiance to the Navy... Miu Miu Prada Tommy Hilfiger Navy influences / Belted coats / Corset details / Middy dresses / Femme details DEAR JOHN SAILOR GAL Joseph Sacai Christopher Kane
He's given me a few trinkets... and I can t seem to take off his "dixie.-cup hat... Burberry Prorsum Prada Bottega Veneta Christopher Kane Louis Vuitton Prada Christopher Kane Cabochon stones / Vintage style sunnies / Malachite & other green gems / Train cases / Belt bags / Keys DEAR JOHN / ACCESSORIES KEEPSAKES
... I do like him but it s not that I just need to explore as far as my sturdy shoes will take me... Erdem Burberry Prorsum Maison Margiela Prada Etro Tommy Hilfiger Burberry Prorsum Lady Loafers / Round toes / Reinforced details / High Platforms / Cylindrical heels / Socks or knitted tights are key! DEAR JOHN / FOOTWEAR WALK OUT
DEAR JOHN / BEAUTY KISS GOODBYE Kisses John, I wish you a happy life... Opening Ceremony Joseph Prada Maison Margiela Bottega Veneta Blumarine Marcel waves / Crimped textures / Red to wine lips / Cupid s bow upper lip / Natural brows / Taupe lids
DEAR JOHN / WORKSHEET MUST-HAVE FLATS Maison Margiela Bottega Veneta Blumarine Handknit sweater / Cocktail Sheath / Recut aviator / Slouchy pants / Flare skirt