WorléeAqua Nail Maridav/Shutterstock.com// Nik Merkulov/fotolia.com The Simple Way to Create Outstanding Water-Based Nail Polishes
WorléeAqua Nail The Simple Way to Create Outstanding Water-Based Nail Polishes WorléeAqua Nail It Simplifies Your Formulation Work The Worlée name has been synonymous with the highest-quality raw materials since 1851. Today, Worlée is among the industry s most modern and technologically innovative companies. The enterprise is an international market leader for chemical, natural, and cosmetic raw materials with an extensive product range. Worlée s broad global reach and sourcing strategy enable it to satisfy a great diversity of customer requirements. Through its numerous branches around the world, Worlée serves a diverse mix of customers and wellknown multinational companies, offering total customer-oriented support. Many years ago, the company committed itself to the guiding principles of responsible trade and sustainable development, priorities that have meanwhile become firmly established in all three business divisions. The cosmetic department at Worlée focuses on the development of innovative products that suit today s market requirements for skin care, hair care, sun care, and color cosmetics. Our products are developed and produced at the highest level of quality and security standards in cooperation with the sites of Lauenburg and Lübeck in northern Germany. WorléeAqua Nail is a specialized product family of ready-to-use aqueous acrylic polymer dispersions for the formulation of durable water-based nail polishes. To simplify the formulation work, some necessary additives have already been added. This is an easy and convenient way to create nail polishes with outstanding characteristics such as fast drying time, high gloss, good adhesion, and durability. Finally you can do away with strong-smelling solvents and controversial ingredients such as nitrocellulose, triphenyl phosphate, solvents (ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, toluene, xylene), formaldehyde resin, phthalates, camphor, preservatives, etc. The WorléeAqua Nail series consists of five products. The base coat has been developed as an undercoating for optimal nail adhesion, while the top coat provides an upper layer featuring outstanding hardness and shine. Furthermore, WorléeAqua Nail 100, 200, and 300 add three more individual products to the selection. With their respective varying compositions, they provide differing levels of hardness development and flexibility for nail polishes and make it possible to develop specific formulas that address the needs of consumers. The WorléeAqua Nail products are composed of a film-building polymer, various plasticizers, and coalescing agents, as well as further functional additives, and they serve as the basis for the formulations. The products are free from preservatives (Annex V of the EU Cosmetic Regulation EC No 1223/2009; Annex 3 of the Japanese Standards for Cosmetics ) and designed with the aim of achieving good film formation and rapid drying as well as hardness and durability. Formulation using WorléeAqua Nail is very easy and allows for a safe production process without concern for safety hazards, toxicity, and VOC issues. A finished nail polish merely requires the addition of pigments and colorings. With water-based WorléeBase AQ color pastes, thanks to predispersed and stabilized pigments or dyes, this is even possible in a cold process. But the incorporation of effect pigments is also unproblematic, as WorléeAqua Nail products demonstrate high shearing resistance and excellent temperature stability. Nik Merkulov/Shutterstock.com 2
Your Benefits at a Glance Water based Long lasting/durable Preservative-free products Without nitrocellulose and solvents Cold processing no heating or pre-dissolving necessary Constant quality Made in Germany Quick drying Product INCI Characteristics WorléeAqua Nail 100 WorléeAqua Nail 200 WorléeAqua Nail 300 WorléeAqua Nail Base Coat WorléeAqua Nail Top Coat WorléeAqua Nail Natural Remover Aqua, Polyacrylate-42, Dibutyl Sebacate, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, Oxidized Polyethylene, Phenylpropanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol Aqua, Polyacrylate-42, Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, Oxidized Polyethylene, Phenylpropanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol Aqua, Polyacrylate-42, Trimethyl Hydroxypentyl Isobutyrate, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate, Oxidized Polyethylene Phenylpropanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol Aqua, Polyacrylate-42, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Dibutyl Sebacate, Phenylpropanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol Aqua, Polyacrylate-42, Dibutyl Sebacate, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, Oxidized Polyethylene, Phenylpropanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol Methyl Soyate, Ethyl Lactate, Butyl Lactate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Very fast drying and excellent curing for early resistance. Very good gloss and scratch resistance. Very fast drying and good curing for early resistance with more flexibility. Very good gloss and scratch resistance. A nail polish base with very good adhesion and superior durability on the nail. High gloss, fast drying, and good scratch resistance. It can also be used without base and top coat. Quick-drying base coat with adjusted flexibility and good adhesion. Scratch resistant top coat with very high gloss. Vegetable-based nail polish remover. For easy removal of aqueous nail polishes with moisturizing and nourishing properties. Water-Based Nail Polish Solvent-Based Nail Polish Solvents and plasticizer Water, Glycols, Adipate, etc. Film and co-film former Acrylates Additives and pigments ~5% ~45% ~45% ~25% ~5% ~75% Solvents Isobutylacetate, Ethylacetate Film and co-film former Nitrocellulose, Resins Additives and pigments 3
WorléeAqua Nail The Simple Way to Create Outstanding Water-Based Nail Polishes WorléeAqua Nail 100 A nail polish base with very fast curing, and high final hardness. After curing, the nail polish has a good scratch resistance and gloss retention. It is less flexible than WorléeAqua Nail 200 and can also be used without base and top coat. WorléeAqua Nail 200 A nail polish base with very fast curing and a little more flexibility than WorléeAqua Nail 100. After curing, the nail polish has a good scratch resistance and gloss retention. It can also be used without base and top coat. WorléeAqua Nail 300 A nail polish base with very good adhesion and superior durability on the nail. It provides a high gloss, fast drying, and good scratch resistance. WorléeAqua Nail 300 is more flexible than WorléeAqua Nail 100 and 200. It can also be used without base and top coat. WorléeAqua Nail Base Coat A sticky nail polish base with good adhesion to the nail. The fast drying shortens the waiting time before applying additional coats. Extends the wearing time of the nail polish, since impacts are mitigated and the paint does not peel off from the nail. WorléeAqua Nail Top Coat A very hard and high-gloss top coat with a short curing time. Very scratch resistant and slippery to prevent loss of gloss. Typical Properties Properties WorléeAqua Nail 100 WorléeAqua Nail 200 WorléeAqua Nail 300 WorléeAqua Nail Base Coat WorléeAqua Nail Top Coat INCI Aqua, Polyacrylate-42, Dibutyl Sebacate, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, Oxidized Polyethylene, Phenylpropanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol Aqua, Polyacrylate-42, Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, Oxidized Polyethylene, Phenylpropanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol Aqua, Polyacrylate-42, Trimethyl Hydroxypentyl Isobutyrate, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate, Oxidized Polyethylene, Phenylpropanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol Aqua, Polyacrylate-42, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Dibutyl Sebacate, Phenylpropanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol Color White emulsion White emulsion White emulsion White emulsion White emulsion Viscosity 4,000 mpas 4,000 mpas 4,000 mpas 4,000 mpas 4,000 mpas ph Value 8.0 9.0 8.0 9.0 8.0 9.0 8.0 9.0 8.0 9.0 Preservatives No * No * No * No * No * * Annex V of the EU Cosmetic Regulation EC No 1223/2009; Annex 3 of the Japanese Standards for Cosmetics Aqua, Polyacrylate-42, Dibutyl Sebacate, PPG-2 Methyl Ether, Oxidized Polyethylene, Phenylpropanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol Removing Water-Based Nail Polish For the removal of nail polish made with WorléeAqua Nail, polish removers containing acetone or ethyl acetate are unsuitable, as they smudge the polish and do not allow for clean removal. As an alternative, Worlée has thus developed a Natural Remover. Based on renewable raw materials, an acetone-free polish remover has been produced that harmonizes particularly well with the WorléeAqua Nail Series and facilitates the removal process. With ingredients that are very skin friendly, the remover does not dry out the skin or nails and offers a gentle removal of nail polish after approximately one minute of exposure. WorléeAqua Nail Natural Remover Properties INCI Color Viscosity Characteristics Methyl Soyate, Ethyl Lactate, Butyl Lactate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Clear, yellowish liquid 50 mpas Removing Guideline The best time to remove water-based nail polish is directly after a bath or shower. The nail polish will have absorbed water and be easier to remove. Otherwise, you can soak your nails in warm water for five minutes. Put one drop of nail polish remover on each nail and allow the remover to soak for about one minute. Rub the nails with a well-soaked cotton pad until the polish is fully removed. If a small amount of polish is left on the sides of your nails, use a wood cuticle stick to gently scrape off the polish. Wash your hands with soap and water and dry them. 4
Performance A panel test was used to compare WorléeAqua Nail with one solvent-based and one water-based nail polish, both of which are commercially available. For the test, the three different nail polishes were applied to the nails of female test subjects. After a drying time of one hour, dishwashing was simulated for five minutes. In the next step, the test persons had to grasp with both hands in stone chippings (10 times). The hands were photographed after the test (see below). The nail polishes were compared in the six categories. Gloss Retention [%] 100 80 60 40 20 Abrasion Resistance with Crock Meter 50dr 9μ Grinding Bloom 1st Bar Gloss 20 2nd Bar Gloss 60 Drying Time 1 = Good 6 = Worse Gloss Durability 1 2 3 4 5 6 Opacity Smell Application WorléeAqua Nail Water-Based Competitive Product Solvent-Based Competitive Product The nail polishes were also examined for their abrasion resistance with a crock meter. The film surface was scratched with sand paper and then the gloss values were measured and compared to the values before the test. The gloss retention of the WorléeAqua Nail products is remarkably good. In particular, the WorléeAqua Nail Top Coat shows excellent gloss retention after abrasion test. 0 WorléeAqua Nail 100 WorléeAqua Nail 200 WorléeAqua Nail 300 WorléeAqua Nail Top Coat Solvent-based Competitive Product 1 Solvent-based Competitive Product 2 Solvent-based Competitive Product 3 Water-based Competitive Product 1 Water-based Competitive Product 2 The next graph shows the pendulum hardness of different nail polishes, depending on the drying time. This method evaluates hardness by measuring the damping time of an oscillating pendulum. Depending on the elasticity, the damping will be stronger or weaker. If there are no elastic forces, the pendulum will damp stronger. High elasticity will cause weak damping. It turns out that the WorléeAqua Nail products reflects the pendulum hardness of solvent-based products very well, while existing water-based paints are too soft. Pendulum Hardness 125 100 75 50 25 Film Hardness Evaluation 100μ Film 0 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 Drying Time in Hours WorléeAqua Nail 100 WorléeAqua Nail 300 Solvent-based Competitive Product 1 Solvent-based Competitive Product 3 Water-based Competitive Product 1 WorléeAqua Nail 200 WorléeAqua Nail Top Coat Solvent-based Competitive Product 2 Solvent-based Competitive Product 4 Water-based Competitive Product 2 Water-Based Competitive Product Solvent-Based Competitive Product WorléeAqua Nail 5
WorléeAqua Nail The Simple Way to Create Outstanding Water-Based Nail Polishes Formulating Guidelines WorléeAqua Nail products are ready-to-use polymer dispersions that have been developed in such a way that they form high-gloss and stable films. WorléeAqua Nail 100, 200, and 300 contain various plasticizers to achieve differently flexible nail polishes. This is necessary, as nails vary greatly in both length and texture to the extent that a single lacquer can not cover all the requirements. WorléeAqua Nail Base Coat is very flexible and created to be slightly sticky, enabling its use as a base coat. WorléeAqua Nail Top Coat, on the other hand, is extremely scratch resistant, hard, and very shiny, to avoid loss of gloss. Worlée Aqua Nail is milky white and opaque, but it becomes colorless, transparent, and shiny during the drying process. Formulation and Processing To produce colored nail polishes, pigments must be added. This can be done by using aqueous pigment pastes such as WorléeBase AQ or by grinding pigments directly into WorléeAqua Nail. WorléeBase AQ can be used for energy-saving and low-dust cold-processing operations with a normal stirrer, whereas for the grinding of pigments, the grain size must be as small as possible in order to achieve high color strengths and opacity. In order to obtain a very fine distribution of the pigments, a bead mill can be used, for example. It is also possible to use effect pigments such as mica, aluminum calcium borosilicates, aluminium sodium borosilicates, synthetic fluorphlogopites, or the like. Depending on their grain fineness and pigment density, these must be stabilized to prevent settling if they are not intended to be mixed again by shaking of the nail-varnish bottle. Suitable anti-settling agents include WorléeAqua Thix 100 (INCI: Acrylates Crosspolymer), Silica, Xanthan gums, Bentonites, Hectorites, or the like. The incorporation process varies in each case, and the necessary quantity must be determined for the formulation. WorléeAquaThix 100 can be used in the cold process. If gel particles form, they may be dissolved with a longer stirring time. Silica, bentonites, and hectorites must be incorporated with high shearing forces in order to achieve sufficient grain refinement and effectiveness. Synergistic effects can be achieved with WorléeAquaThix 100. A recommended combination is 1.0 to 1.5% WorléeAqua Thix 100 with 0.5 to 1.0% of a hydrophobic modified silica (INCI: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) with a small specific surface area (BET < 130m 2 /g). Since the viscosity increases as a result, this can be reduced with the addition of water. Recommendations WorléeAqua Nail can be provided with additional additives to achieve special properties or claims. Silicone emulsions (INCI: Dimethiconol) can be used to increase the surface smoothness of the nail varnishes. The silicone droplets distribute themselves over the surface of the nail polish and create a slippery and very smooth surface. The recommended application concentration is < 1.5% and should be determined by serial tests. In order to influence flexibility, drying, hardness, adhesion, and water resistance, other film formers can also be added in the form of polymers, such as WorléeMicromer C50/25, C60/42, C60/42NP, or C80/50. However, other acrylates, polyurethanes, polyvinyl alcohol, or the like can also be used. Plant extracts (aqueous, ethanolic, glycerin, or glycolic), panthenol, urea, or the like can be used for nail care. Perfumes can also be used. As part of the film formation process, the perfume is bound in nail varnish and gradually released over time, so that nail varnishes can be prepared that release the perfume over the course of several days. Nail Polish Additives Rheology modifiers Thickeners Slip additives Silicones Wetting agents Fillers Antifoams Dispersants UV screens Therapeutic agents (actives) Moisturizers Film former Non-film-forming polymers Perfumes Step 1 Add WorléeAqua Nail to a vessel. Step 3 Add WorléeBase AQ to make a colored nail polish. Stir until homogeneous. WorléeAqua Thix, Acrylates, Bentonite, Hectorite, Silica WorléeAqua Thix, Acrylates, Bentonite, Hectorite, Silica Wax, Silicone Gums, Dimethiconol Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-Dimethicone, Siloxane Silicone, Surfactants Talc, Barium Sulfate Silicone WorléeMicromer C50/25, Ester, Acrylates Water soluble UV screens Spirulina, Bitrex, Plant extracts etc. Glycerin, Sorbitol, Urea WorléeMicromers, Polyurethane, Acrylates Polyester, Acrylates Preservatives, Neutralizing agents, Antioxidants Step 2 Add Hydrophobic Silica (INCI: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) as a filler and anti-settling agent to the vessel. Disperse well to deagglomerate the Silica. Step 4 Add water and WorléeAqua Thix 100 (INCI: Acrylates Crosspolymer) to adjust viscosity and to stabilize the pigments against sedimentation. Stir until homogeneous. 6
Frequently Asked Questions Is the product compatible with Ammonium Carbonate? Ammonium Carbonate in solid form can be successfully added at levels up to 2%. There is a strong viscosity increase and lump formation may be expected due to gelation. Adding water will allow the lumps to dissolve and the viscosity to drop. To avoid the lump formation, add the ammonium carbonate as an aqueous solution. Is the product compatible with Urea? Urea can be stirred in as a solid at levels up to 10% in WorléeAqua Nail. This creates a decrease in the viscosity. Up to a content of 3% the film remains clear and shiny. At higher draw rates, a crystalline precipitation of the urea can occur during drying. The film becomes murky and looks crystalline. Other ingredients may alter the result as only the direct addition of urea was tested without further ingredients. Is the product compatible with perfumes? All perfumes that have been tested to date can be incorporated without any problems. The nail varnish retains its scent for three to four days, as the perfume is incorporated in the varnish and only gradually released. Is the product compatible with Silicone gums? Testing was carried out on various aqueous emulsions of Dimethiconols. All of the emulsions were well incorporated and compatible. The concentration used in the emulsions was up to 1.5%. The dimethiconols produce a very smooth, slippery surface (slip) but impair the scratch resistance depending on their usage level. It is possible that lower application concentrations would not have as much of an effect on scratch resistance with good slip. Which UV filters can be added? Water-soluble UV filters such as Benzophenone-4 can be added. Can preservatives be added? WorléeAqua Nail is stable with respect to yeasts, molds, and bacteria without preservatives. If other raw materials are added, the nail varnish must be tested for sufficient preservation. The known preservatives can be used, but surface-active preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, or the like can affect the stability of the dispersion. Do the nail polishes require filtering? WorléeAqua Nail is filtered 50 μm after production. We recommend filtering the nail polish with the same filter quality. How should WorléeAqua Nail be stored? We recommend storing WorléeAqua Nail under cool, dry, and shaded/dark conditions. WorléeAqua Nail is freeze-thaw stable, yet the recommended storage temperature is 4 to 30 C. How long is the warranty period? The shelf life of WorléeAqua Nail is 12 months. What is the cleaning procedure for the kettles and systems? The cleaning is best carried out before the products are dried and cured. Then WorléeAqua Nail can easily be removed with water. If the product has already dried, use hot water (high-pressure cleaning) or strong alkaline cleaners. Solvents such as ethyl acetate, ethanol, or acetone can also be used. Is the product compatible with WorléeMicromer (INCI: Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer)? WorléeMicromer C50/25, C60/42, C60/42NP, and C80/50 can be used at least up to 15%. WorléeMicromer C70/61 and C70/63 are incompatible and WorléeMicromer C20/41 has not yet been tested since it contains parabens. Does the WorléeAqua Nail Natural Remover work with normal nail polish? Yes, the WorléeAqua Nail Natural Remover also removes solvent paints based on Nitrocellulose. How pigments can be stabilized? Suitable anti-settling agents include WorléeAqua Thix 100 (INCI: Acrylates Crosspolymer), Silica, Xanthan gums, Bentonites, Hectorites, or the like. Synergistic effects can be achieved with a combination of WorléeAqua Thix 100 and a hydrophobic modified silica (INCI: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) with a small specific surface area (BET < 130m 2 /g). How can viscosity be reduced? The viscosity can be adjusted by adding water, ethanol, or the like. Robert Wolkaniec@Shutterstock.com 7
Worlée-Chemie GmbH Grusonstrasse 26 D-22113 Hamburg Phone: +49 (0)40 73333 0 Fax: +49 (0)40 73333 2699 cosmetics@worlee.de www.worlee.com For further requests, such as a technical data sheet, specifications, product documentation, a safety data sheet, basic formulations, or testing methods, please contact our office in Hamburg. 10/2017 Any deliveries and/or services are exclusively subject to our general standard terms and conditions in their respectively valid version. We will be happy to provide you with the general standard terms and conditions upon your request and they can be downloaded online at http://www.worlee.de/gstc.