AFI CAPE TOWN FASHION WEEK 2018 DESIGNER BIBLE
AFI PRIVÉ
Describe your brand. A contemporary brand catering to the elegant confident women with the love for fashion, drawing inspiration from across the African continent translating into tangible fashion pieces. It focuses on fit, finish and quality, giving customers the ultimate value for money. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? AW18 - ROUTE TO ROOT. Our latest collection is called Route to Root. Looking under the African sun we dig deeper, going back to our roots. The inspiration for A/W18 is derived from the routes we take to get to our roots, our home. Our land provides us with the foundation to plant our roots. The various sediments of the soil are furthermore the fundamental components to providing us with our basic needs. The overall feel of the range will be of an African woman going on a journey to explore and find her roots, layered clothing to protect herself from the cold and her belongings wrapped closely to her. What is driving the current creative explosion in African Fashion? With the rise in craftsmanship people are looking to Africa as it overflows with various craft techniques from across the continent. When big designers such Louis Vuitton and Valentino show interest in Africa it creates a lot of interest among the rest of designers across the world. How do you interpret the idea I AM AFRICA? Promoting and supporting Africa, its people and its businesses.
AFRICAISNOW & FRIENDS
Describe your Brand: Africa is Now is an online magazine of which anything African contemporary is the focus and forms the basis of our content. Africa is Now serves as a platform for African creatives and creativity by showcasing these various forums, ranging from fashion, art, music, social media and networking events forums. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? Our runway looks for this event were inspired by collaboration. We were inspired by all the talent and emerging talent and wanted to celebrate Africa s creative energy. Our brand aims to become a platform to showcase African designers and what better way to celebrate their work than by featuring it in our show. Do you have any big plans for the year 2018? We are launching a Magazine through an online platform. The Africa is Now Magazine will be available on africaisnowmagazine.com. And will feature new content about contemporary Africa every week. What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? The continent s creative landscape is flourishing. We are launching the magazine to draw more attention to the incredible work of African designers to get Africa the recognition it deserves. We are looking to celebrate the creativity of Africa and we believe that creativity fuels creativity and that the more authentic Africa design we share the more it will inspire even more creativity in Africa. How do you interpret the idea I AM AFRICA (this years AFI theme)? We incorporated the idea of I AM AFRICA in our runway looks by celebrating and showcasing only African designers who created their pieces with an Afrocentric approach.
ADAMA PARIS
Describe your Brand Adama Paris style is more than a way of dressing; it reflects the moods of a contemporary woman. The collection is handmade and collaborates with Senegalese artisans for accessories. Fashion made in Africa for the world that is the mindset of Adama Paris brand. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? My collection is inspired by Berber population and unique sense of style. The vast majority of the population of North Africa is of Berber origin. The term Berber means people whose language is not understood, that is, foreigners by extension, the word means wild or uncivilised. Do you have any big plans for the year 2018? Yes, to open up a factory in Senegal and a shop in Paris. What is driving the current creative explosion in African Fashion? It is our awareness of having a unique sense of fashion and our African heritage. How do you interpret the idea I AM AFRICA? Be bold. Be creative. Don t apologise for being different.
ADELE DEJAK
Describe your Brand Adele Dejak is a brand of handcrafted, luxury fashion accessories. It s inspired and driven by Africa, by its tradition of adornment, by its immense cultural heritage and by its singularly stylish people. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? Our latest collection is called Dhamani, which is the Swahili word for precious. This collection is celebratory it s about valuing what matters and that s life, love and culture. Do you have any big plans for the year 2018? We will be collaborating more with exciting African designers. We will also be launching a complementary clothing line to dress our modern chic woman. What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? The creative explosion comes from introspection and self-appreciation. More than ever, Africans have a strong sense of identity and agency, something that needs full expression and fashion is the most natural way to express oneself. How do you interpret the idea, I AM AFRICA? I AM AFRICA is about taking ownership of a space or an idea (in this case, the Idea of Africa) as much as it is about belonging to it. We are Africa because we are inspired by Africa, because we design for Africa and produce in Africa.
CRAIG PORT
Best known for a unique take on resort wear, the Port brand draws upon performance sport and popular culture for inspiration. A touch of laidback glamour is always present in the modish collections, which embrace effortless comfort through soft, easy to wear fabric and thoughtful silhouette choices. Looking back often inspires the future and paying attention to timeless style and shapes leads to the creation of wearable collection that engage and enthuse. While growing up, designer Craig Port developed a deep love of the sea and coastal living, influences that have shaped the laid-back glam out of his fashion and lifestyle ranges. Those early days surrounded by beautiful fabric, impeccable tailoring and the highest quality craftsmanship left a huge impression and he found himself both excited and enthralled by clothing ever since. Port lists his greatest achievement, apart from fatherhood, as his incredible freedom of expression that comes with designing for your own brand. This autonomy has allowed him to explore multiple discipline beyond clothing including accessories, underwear, swimwear, fragrances and furniture. Time spent abroad in some of the world s most desirable and style locations, and living in Cape Town, has moulded Port s aesthetic and given his work an elegant yet care free edge. Showing at local and international fashion week is always tremendously rewarding and dressing celebrities and music icons never fails to add a touch of indulgent glamour to his fashion world. Gracing GQ S Best Dressed List and voted as a South Africa s Most Stylist Man, Port has been a guest judge on both America s Next Top Model with Tyra Banks and Africa s Next Top Model with Oluchi. Inspired by the metropolitan, Craig was drawn to outerwear and the way an oversized silhouette has the ability to shift the human shape. A palette of charcoal and ink compliments crisp hues of dune and milk, while Safari green and tangerine stripes add a graphic dimension. Channelling fluidity with form, defined Geometry presents an almost robotic urban uniform. Pieces are sleek and simplistic, devoid of any superfluous layering. With close attention paid to details, which suggests a luxurious finish, the collection takes a trajectory from sporty to elegant, with a mistakenly Port edge.
DIANE PARIS
Describe your Brand I love classic pieces. They re always included in my collections: think of silk shirts, high waisted pants, jackets, and capes. We have a classic ready to wear collection with striking colours like reds, emerald greens, pinks, neutrals and of course black. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? My new A/W 18 collection was inspired by the types of clothes that I would love to wear this season! We don t have four distinct seasons. So, I focused on lighter pieces that can be layered on colder days. I drew inspiration from fabrics like velvet, suede, faux fur and eco leather that are on trend this season! I ve created leggings, tops and jackets that can be easily added into any winter wardrobe. I was drawn to frills too, which add a classic feminine element to an outfit. I ve used them on tops and dresses to add a unique touch to timeless pieces. The range also includes sets that can be mixed and matched. I incorporated beautiful skirts and turtlenecks that can either be worn on their own, with anything else in the collection or together. Do you have any big plans for the year? Last year I opened my Showroom which has been very successful in providing my clients with a unique personal shopping experience. The growing demand for my clothing made me expand into an online store at the end of last year which has also been a huge success. What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? There s a creative explosion in the world of African fashion today. It is driven by a generation of creatives with a deep confidence in their identity and vibrant bold colours of their various cultures. I was born to a Polish mother and my father is from Togo. This gives me a global sense of what it means to be African. I m part of a generation that is proud of their roots and want to show it to the world. How do you interpret the idea I AM Africa? (AFI theme) To me Africa is young, strong with a deep optimism about our place in the future.
GAVIN RAJAH
Describe your Brand Unashamedly luxurious, fine craftsmanship made for discerning women What is the inspiration behind your latest collection Think 1980 s irreverence mixed with bold social statements Do you have any big plans for the year 2018 Expanding my homeware collection with @home and furthering all the wonderful social empowerment projects I ve initiated in vulnerable communities. What is driving the current creative explosion in African Fashion? Afrofuturism - that intersection of culture and the future of our continent How do you interpret the idea I AM AFRICA? My work is created on the continent, sustains people on the continent and empowers people here.
IMPRINT
Describe your Brand The brand celebrates a powerful woman. It goes deeper since it doesn t just look at the commercial side but goes to the roots, celebrating the concept of truly being who you are. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? Imprint s Autumn-Winter 2018 is called Umgidi. It is mostly inspired by my culture, which is Xhosa. This collection celebrate all that it means to be African and all that it means to be home, hence, the name home coming celebration Umgidi as it is called in Xhosa. Do you have any big plans for the year? Yes, we are making our brand accessible everywhere, we are shipping overseas, and locally through our online store. We will also be releasing two fashion base films. What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? I think people are sort of catching on to the fact that everything starts in Africa and that somehow the core of everything, or the root of everything is in Africa. How do you interpret the idea I AM Africa? (AFI theme) The idea of being Africa means I embody what Africa is about. Even my creation is colourful, it celebrates our distinct cultures, and it says I am a proud African.
ITUEN BASI
Describe your brand? The brand is a celebration of individuality and feminism. Creativity, originality and innovation are some of the words synonymous with the Ituen Basi brand. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? The collection named twenty seven. It celebrates one of Nigeria s national treasures, Fela Anikulapo Kuti through the seldom talked about supporting act that later became his 27 wives. The story of Fela s audacity is not complete without these audacious women in all their glory. Do you have any big plans for the year 2018? Ituen Basi celebrates 10 years in Nigeria and has a series of events lined up; including a retrospective exhibition, a seminar, an Instagram campaign titled #365daysofituenbasi and a few more projects in the works. What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? Social media has been driving the current explosion in African music, films and more recently fashion. Having uncensored access to what is happening fashion-wise has heightened a deeper appreciation for all things African. How do you interpret the idea I AM AFRICA? I AM AFRICA is the essence of our brand. It is the celebration of our cultural heritage in the 21st century. It is us adding our voice to the African narrative through our work, enjoying the journey and being unapologetic about the fact that it is a work in progress.
KAHINDO
Describe your brand? KAHINDO is an independent women s ready-to-wear design label based in New York city. Founded in 2009 under the name Modahnik, the brand was born of founder Kahindo Mateene s desire to create a line that infuses the nostalgia and modernity of the two cultures of her upbringing, American and Congolese. KAHINDO pairs mid-century Americana silhouettes with traditional Congolese textiles and fabrics creating garments that empower women in all of their femininity. KAHINDO believes that when you empower women, you empower a whole society, and champions this cause with a philanthropic partnership with MamAfrica, KAHINDO and MamAfrica repurpose the brand s fabric scraps into handbags 100% made in the DRC by Congolese women. OUR FOUNDER S STORY Born in the Democratic Republic of Congo, Kahindo Mateene is an alum of the Illinois Institute of Art. Mateene draws inspiration from Congolese art and culture of her childhood as well as the culture of her adopted country of the United States and extensive travels throughout Europe, the Americas and Africa. Upon completion of Chicago s Fashion Incubator at Macy s Residence Program in 2011, Kahindo Mateene landed a spot as a contestant on Season 12 of Lifetime Network s Emmy-Nominated Project Runway television show. From her constant philanthropic endeavours to partnership with MamAfrica through KAHINDO, Mateene has always seen fashion as a vehicle for conveying cultural perspective and betterment of a society. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? My collection Colors of Goma, is inspired by my childhood memories of growing up in Goma, DRC. Before the war. Before the volcano erupted. Before the refugees. Goma was Blue skies over a Tranquil Lake Kivu Cows grazing on the lush green farms of Masisi The yellow of jeri cans and bananas and the rainbow of colors from Mount Nyiragongo It s been 24 years & my soul yearns for Goma, my hometown. This collection is about evoking the colors of home.
KHOSI NKOSI
The clothes are the perfect fusion of traditional; from the Ndebele, Xhosa, Venda and Pedi cultures to modern tastes. The designer plays around with African print while also creating clothes that have an incredible fit on the wearer. The garments are perfect for occasions like weddings, birthdays and office parties. Scores of celebrities are fans and we completely understand why. Khosi Nkosi is the brainchild of Khosi Nkosi. In 2008 she was the winner of the young designer s competition and in 2012 she was awarded the most innovative brand in YDE. Her stuff is sold at YDE. Her garments are inspired by what the brand essence stand for, which is Strong, Modern, African, Nubile woman that loves and respects herself and pays attention to details. The brand s marketing has featured a number of prominent South African women including actress Nomzamo Mbatha, Miss South Africa 2015 Liesl Laurie, and Mrs. South Africa 2016 Candice Abrahams. At the same time, the brand s social media heavily showcases its customers by welcoming submissions of photographs of people wearing Khosi Nkosi for its platform #Khosi Nkosi_razzi.
LEANDI MULDER
Describe your Brand Leandi Mulder Designs are focused on sustainable practices, paired with intricate handcrafting techniques such as hand-weaving, embroidery and textile construction. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? This range is developed using innovative upcycled textiles through hand-weaving and patchwork techniques. By the studying potential of worthless clothing items and fabrics, an intuitive and creative process was used to transform scraps of fabric into textile art pieces. Do you have any big plans for the year 2018? I am currently working on a capsule collection of mohair and knitwear garments, designed in collaboration with Frances van Hasselt of Frances V.H Mohair Rugs. I will be also completing my Masters degree in fashion at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology in China. What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? Africa is currently a centre-piece on the global podium when it comes to creative development. Now more than ever, we see Africa leading the way in innovative and creative design, echoing our daily living on this continent. How do you interpret the idea I AM AFRICA (AFI theme)? I AM AFRICA, is a moment in time where origin meets the reality of our people in daily living. The innermost fibre of an African society is celebrated, not relinquishing or hiding the difficulties which make up our reality.
LEIGH SCHUBERT
Leigh Schubert started her eponymous label in 2002 - after gaining in depth experience working in the commercial retail and manufacturing industry. Her label has been since awarded many accolades, her bi- annual collections all have been critically acclaimed, and she has achieved great commercial success for her accessible, sophisticated yet quirky signature style. She remains the only South African designer to have shown at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week in 2009 and 2010, and was hand selected as one of ten designers to show at a once of installation show alongside designers such as Akira Isogowa in Sydney. In 2012 she was awarded the honour of designing kit for the South African athletes at the 2012 London Olympics and Paralympics opening ceremonies. The collections can be purchased online, in her stand alone stores, in various emporiums nationally as well as internationally in boutiques in the USA, UAE and UK. Visit the website for further details. www.leighschubert.com facebook.com/leighschubertclothing instagram.com/leighschubert twitter.com/leighschubert Contact: email leighschubert@me.com / studio tel 071 6799953
LUMIERE COUTURE
Describe your Brand? My brand is the luxurious, made for the fashion forward woman with an elegant taste; my brand seeks to create ultra-feminine pieces with a timeless feel. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? The collection was inspired by the contemporary African woman from her roots and naturally elegant. Also by the memory of the late legendary Ghanaian fashion designer Kofi Anza. We have traditional Ghanaian moving fabrics like Kentse infused with Shiye, leather, deaden and plain cotton to create fabulous pieces. Do you have any big plans for the year? Yes, reaching more market globally. Growth has been steady and we plan to keep creating master pieces, we hope to do many more international shows and increase stocks. What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? The driving force is because the fear of not fitting in is non-existent; many of us have now embraced what makes us truly unique. How do you interpret the idea I AM AFRICA (AFI Theme) I am Africa to me represent more than just being black but also a sense of worth, uniqueness, acceptance and growth.
MAHONE
I am a Designer/ Creative director for Mahone which is my clothing line, i consider myself as a style architect simply because like any great architect i make sure my work is carefully planned, designed and i also oversee the construction of every garment created. My job is to ensure that my clients needs are met and their style is beautifully magnified through Mahone thus exceeding their expectations! like any great designer i too have a more deeper and intense side of my clothing line which explores the depth of fashion, art and creativity. For any freelance work or enquiries contact me on s.mahone@live.com
MATTE NOLIM
Describe your Brand Ready to wear in the form of Clean Drama What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? Sports influence X MNOLIM aesthetic Do you have any big plans for the year 2018? DEFINITELY, with God s help all will be unveiled soon. How do you interpret the idea I AM AFRICA? Your version of Africa, given our global influence
MAXHOSA BY LADUMA
Describe Your Brand Maxhosa by Laduma is a modern contemporary way that Africans would have been dressing if it was untapped or not tempered with, basically the brand re-emerges our cultural ecstatic in the current day and age, and try to create a new world that we can live. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? The inspiration behind my new collection is inspired by Maxhosa s evolution for the past six years since the brand was established; basically I look at our signature DNA that we have established over the past six years in the 3D format. Do you have any big plans for the year? Yes, to move our main production in house so that we are able to control major part of our value chain and also be able to innovate more. To open up another Maxhosa independent outlet at a high retail spot in Johannesburg. What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? It is that lots of people globally are looking for new ideas and new ways of experiencing the world and African fashion has answers to that hence people are starting to consume African fashion on the daily bases.
NICHOLAS COUTTS
DESCRIBE YOUR BRAND The Nicholas Coutts brand is a fashion label created by Cape Town designer Nicholas Coutts that concentrates on tailoring, craftsmanship and a tangible outlook on fashion. The brand aims to create garments that are sophisticated yet comfortable, exude functionality and timeless elegance and incorporates a human touch into the aesthetic. The continual theme of incorporating handwoven fabrics and the combination of unusual textures makes the brand unique. WHAT IS THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION? The motifs that I designed for the fabrics in this collection were inspired by exploring the natural habitat of the Western Cape particularly Bain s Kloof and the crystal pools. The overwhelming natural beauty of the elegant landscapes and waterfalls inspired the simple forms and strong colours of this collection, creating a balance between technicalities with handcrafted detail. The focus is on volume and silhouettes and high quality fabrics that create a highly polished and mature collection. DO YOU HAVE BIG PLANS FOR THE YEAR 2018? My plans include expanding my brand into the international market and to focus on developing a range of unique fabrics for furniture and accessories. WHAT IS DRIVING THE CURRENT CREATIVE EXPLOSION IN AFRICAN FASHION? The variety of creative talent that Africa has to offer is enormous. Creatives in Africa are breaking the mould and geographical boundaries in all fields of the creative arts. It is driven by the young designers who are experimental with their heritage and are taking risks to create a diverse Afropolitan aesthetic. HOW DO YOU INTERPRET THE IDEA I AM AFRICA? It is Africa s time to shine and to celebrate the spectacular talent that this continent has to offer.
OM STYLE AVENUE
Describe your Brand Orapeleng Modutle Style Avenue is an original brand which is becoming one of a leading name in the young fashion designers scene. Thanks to its distinctive style and brand identity that always wins recognition on the international scale. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? The Autumn-Winter 2018 collection is inspired by female icons from the past that left a legacy in the fashion world like Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Josephine Baker, Marline Dietrich, and Mark Mary just to mention a few. This collection was created to remember and honour these style makers. Do you have any big plans for the year 2018? The Autumn-Winter 2018 collection What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? The current generation of fashion designers are fearless, courageous and believes that fashion has no boundaries.
QUITERIA & GEORGE
Describe your brand Quiteria and George is renowned for its signature pieces, elegant, sophisticated and most importantly architecture in motion. It is a brand for strong women from all walks of life. What s the inspiration behind the collection? The collection was inspired by our latest travel to the Kingdom of Swaziland. We visited cultural sights and the royal family, meeting Queen Lafogeyani. The clothes and colours represents purity and shapes that we interpreted represents the forever evolving culture but still maintaining the discipline. Do you have any plans for the year 2018? Our biggest achievement this year so far is the opening of our store in April and to travel other parts of the continent and the world at large. What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? It is the new generation of artists. The narrative is louder than before. Africa has always been a source of reference when it comes to exploring fashion. We are a continent rich in culture and diversity. Our generation is not afraid to own who they are. How do you interpret the idea I AM AFRICA We interpreted the idea I AM AFRICA by incorporating different shapes that represents our African landscape.
SALIMA ABDEL-WAHAB
Describe your brand For Salima - fashion has the ability to explore and connect all the cultures of the World. She is always striving to understand how we can evolve the fashion of the world. She loves to use raw and natural material. She takes these pieces of material and tries to bring to them a touch of flair. She is bold enough to reconstruct fabric by mixing different material. Salima is a daughter of mixed culture her inspiration is global: Moroccan, Asian, and Spanish. Salima uses a mixture of textile, music and dance that is her universe, very tribal. Salima s work consist of working on clothes which correspond to our time. Her work is mostly unique pieces with strong personality. Her customers are mostly working women from 35 to 80, who want to be unique, elegant and feel like warriors. What s the inspiration behind the collection? Collection Title: From Cape to Cape...from Tanger to Cape Town. Migration in the direction of south, a way forward, driven by my intuition through imaginary path. The look will be a mix of colours and a fusion of fabrics.
SITTING PRETTY & HEMPORIUM
Describe your Brand Sitting Pretty, creates simple and relaxed pieces characterised by soft tones and light, loose cuts, offering understated chic and controlled nonchalance with a touch of sensuality. A combination of bohemian chic and urban sophistication, the label playfully juggles together ethnic silhouettes, masculine tailoring and sportswear codes, with a hint of romantic aesthetics. Adding to the collection we are currently expanding into leather shoes and accessories. Designed and manufactured in Cape Town. Inspiration behind the AW2018 collection Winter is a time for cocooning, so I think that the theme of warmth and comfort is carried through the collection with the cosy knitwear and oversized coats, the warm luxury of velvet, the wool/mohair, the comfortable garments, are all reminiscent of a cosy fireside spot, just how winter should be. Big plans for 2018 Yes, we plan to expand our collections to offer more footwear and accessories. Driving the current creative explosion in African Fashion I think the rest of the world has finally realised that Africa is a hive of diverse creativity, and this has started a crazy collaborative explosion where African arts and cultures are mixed amongst themselves to create new and beautiful creations, as well as a fusion with west or east meets Africa.
TONGORO BY SARAH DIOUF
What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? Africa, Senegal, and Dakar are always an inspiration behind every wardrobe we present; there is an ode to travelling that is recurrent every season. Do you have any big plans for the year 2018? Yes, to establish the brand in different African countries through pop-up instalments that I will be launching later in the year; An African tour. Also, my documentary Building An African Dream, retracing my journey from my first entrepreneurial venture to now. What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? The expansion and use of the digital has a lot to do with the current creative explosion in African fashion; there are no borders neither limits anymore. Everyone is free to create and showcase their work through all the platforms we have now access to. How do you interpret the idea I AM AFRICA? I believe that identity is the most important currency of our time; it s the only thing that helps us navigate the world that can never be taken away from us. The idea of I AM AFRICA and the pride that comes with translates for me as being whole, wherever I go, my roots, my culture, my heritage reflects in me.
W35T BY NICOLA WEST
Describe Your Brand Good fabrics and lots of hand painting. I do both men and women s clothing, I like mixing masculine and feminine. My brand is versatile; it caters for everyone and for every shape and size. What is the inspiration behind your latest collection? The inspiration behind my collection is based on ancient civilisation, the Egyptian kind, fascinate me. I used Cleopatra because she seemed like a strong feminine woman. It s based on a concept Cleopatra goes to Taxes. Do you have any big plans for the year? Yes, to strengthen my business and be better especially in promoting my brand on social media. An online shop is in the future. What is driving the current creative explosion in African fashion? People are realising that we have so much to offer, so many colours, so much vibrant, so much skills, so much energy. We are realising that we have something special to offer the world. How do you interpret the idea I AM AFRICA (AFI Theme) For me it s a spiritual thing because I believe that we are all connected and operate as one. You re part of a huge group of people who love one another, who are vibrant and who appreciate the simple things.