Portfolio SUMMER PRACTICAL TRAINING YIYI - 2010 SUMMER
CONTENTS Editor: Yiyi Zhou (07806378D) ACE Style Institute of Intimate Apparel The Hong Kong Polytechnic University Mobile: +852 51682591 Email: icyqx@126.com Introduction... 3 Summer Internship... 4 Company Profile... 4 Aim and Objectives... 5 Methodology and Schedule... 5 Job Responsibilities... 6 Training and Factory Visit... 7 Learning Outcomes... 8 Study Tour... 10 Aim and Objectives... 10 Itinerary... 10 Memories to Share... 11 Overall Reflections and Conclusion... 14 Page 2
Introduction This summer, I worked for the 3D Intimate Apparel Limited as a summer intern in a team of Merchandising. The main role of merchandising team is to coordinate the operational activities in product development and production, track orders to ensure the smooth operation of production and the products produced meet the quality standard and other specifications. My main responsibility in this internship was related to data management, which was to build up the material library and digital database of sample products which will highly facilitate the working efficiency of the team. I also followed the merchandising process of intimate apparel products, sourced fabric swatches of different materials and constructions and developed pushup/strapless bra with innovation together with my teammates. Besides the internship, I also traveled to Europe this summer and visited the world's most famous fashion centers: London and Paris. The study tour was a great experience to me to get an insight look into the lingerie industry, enjoy the atmosphere of art, fashion, and classic romance in Europe, meet new friends, and gain knowledge about European culture and lifestyle. The trip also challenged my abilities to live and travel independently, as well as skills of planing, organizing, communicating and problem solving. The Summer Training highly benefits my academic study, professional skills, global outlook, independence, culture appreciation, and self improvement in my future study and career. Page 3
Summer Intern!ip Company Profile : 3 - D Intimate A"arel Limited Company Name 3 D Intimate Apparel Limited Company Address Block A, 9/F., Ka Ming Court Building, 690 Castle Peak Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong Stuff Name: Yiyi ZHOU Stuff No.: 3D1080 Department: 3-D Merchandising Position: Summer Intern Company Background Founded by Mr. Andy Lau in 1956, the company is one of the world's premier intimate apparel manufacture and has become the preferred manufacture partner of choice for many of the world's leading lingerie brands such as Calvin klein, Victoria's Secret, and Maidenform. Page 4
AIM AND OBJECTIVES Aim - To get an in-depth exploration into the intimate apparel industry especially in area of merchandising, and to train myself into a professional merchandiser. Objectives - to understand the role of merchandiser and the workflow of merchandising in intimate apparel industry; - to explore the latest trend of color, style, fabric, manufacturing technology and innovations in intimate apparel production; - to observe different moulded bra cups and padding, and to understand their functions and manufacturing processes; - to improve the all-around skills including teamwork, communication, time management and problem solving. METHODOLOGY AND SCHEDULE Time Duties and Assignments All over the Training Period 1. Building up of the Moulding Cup Library - to identify the shape, style, color, materials and possible methods and machinery used in manufacturing of molded cups by observation and analysis; - to record information in database for data analysis. End of June 2. Research about Push-up / Strapless Bra - to source and collect information including design concepts and principles, materials and technologies; - to do brand research including the target market, market share, price range, and selling performance. Mid of July 3. Design of Push-up / Strapless Bra - to prepare a trend report in terms of style, color and materials used for push-up/ strapless bra; - to generate design ideas of push -up/strapless bra based on the trend report and by applying the the knowledge gained from working experience; - to design a collection in an innovative way; - to present the design in both sketches and technical drawings; - to find the most suitable material sample including fabric swatches and accessories; - to identify specifications in terms of pattern making, and sewing method. End of July 4. Work In Progress Mid of August 5. Present the Final Project Page 5
JOB RESPONSIBILITIES My main responsibilities in this internship could be summarized as follows: - to build up the material library as well as digital database of sample molded cups, bought bra samples, sample garments and fabric; - to follow the merchandising process of intimate apparel products; - to source fabric swatches of different materials and constructions used in intimate apparel; - to develop a push-up/strapless bra with innovation. Foam Cup Library (Mer & PDD) Bought Sample Library Foam Cup Library (Storage) Fabric Library (Sourcing) Page 6
TRAINING AND FACTORY VISIT Training of Molding and Lamination - Definition and concept of molding - Manufacturing process and machinery - Characteristics and selection criteria of moldable materials - Quality assurance of final product (color management & shape conformation) Training of Social Responsibility - Introduction of labour laws, employee welfare, environment protection, WRAP, Intellectual Property, LBQS... Factory Visit ---- Manufacturing Departments and Processes Seeds Quality Assurance - Fabric Inspection Machine 3 - D Lamination Molding Cutting - Automatic/Blade/Die Cutting Bounding - *Non-sew/seamless technique Marker Plastic Shot Production Sewing Store Room - using color tag to identify time and quality Page 7
LEARNING OUTCOMES This internship helped me to fully enhance: - the understanding of the merchandising process from sampling to delivery as well as the control of quality; - the ability to identify the basic specifications of a molded bra cup such as style, shape, pad content and material property; - the knowledge of textile materials such as fiber content, knitting structures and fabric properties; - the understanding of molding and lamination, including the machinery, techniques and materials usage in real production; - the skill of information search for the latest trend, technology and innovation in intimate apparel industry. Product Design Project Nature - for Spring/Summer 2011 Page 8
*Minimum weight *Maximum load-bearing strength *Reduce the intensity of pressure expand the bearing area Idea 1: Honeycomb Structure - Great load-bearing strength due to the geometrical structure provides good support to the breast - Varies in shape and density provides good fit and comfort Idea 2: To enhance push-up effect by supporting structure at bottom cup - Good shape retention - Great supporting strength - Light weight Page 9
Study T#r AIM AND OBJECTIVES Aim - To appreciate the world s fashion centers who lead the hottest trend of lingerie fashion and technology, and creates the most amazing drama of fashion and innovation. Objectives - to explore the latest trend of style, color, fabric and technology of lingerie fashion; - to observe the characteristics, style and taste of European fashion; - to enhance the understanding of European art, culture and beauty as well as gain inspirations; - to promote my own culture as well as my school to foreign friends. ITINERARY London Concepts Paris Studio 183 Exhibition of Maison Martin Margiela Victoria and Albert Museum The British Museum Tate Modern Lingerie Boutique and Department Store Italy Paris Musée d Orsey Musée du Louvre Opéra National de Paris Mode City Lingerie Cat Walk Autumn/Winter 2011/2012 Trends Forecasting by Concepts Paris Interfiliére Gelleria dell Accademia Galleria degli Uffizi Musei Capitolini Galleria Borghese Museo degli Argenti Musei Vaticani Lingerie Boutique Page 10
MEMORIES TO SHARE Company Visit to Concepts Paris ---- A company offering unique mix of services for lingerie professionals. Interview with Ms Jennifer Kell from Concepts Paris: Author: What is the main job you do everyday? Jenny: What I do is usually to manage the layout of the trend book, and what most of us do is always drawing. We do a lot of research as well. We go to galleries and museums, we also travel for new ideas, like I go to New York a lot. And I will also go to China. Chinese market actually is quite refreshing because it s so different. Author: How do you generate themes or inspirations for the trend forecasting? Jenny: Usually we will base on the old trend and then do research. Then we have meeting, discuss and come up with new themes. Author: What is the major processes when you design for the trend book? Jenny: Colors come the first. We look for images, fabrics and other materials from suppliers or our own sourcing. Then we discuss and choose 30 colors for each season. After that we will come up with mood board of texture and fabric. Then we start our first book called Sign if Change, which is mostly color and fabric but not many shapes. Author: What is the major concern when you design? Any target market? Jenny: We target mass clients. But we will also do some design tailored for certain clients. Author: Do you have any advice for students who would like to be a lingerie designer? Jenny: Treat school as a job, work from 9:00 to 5:00. Be realistic, ask more questions and pay attention to technical aspect. Author: As I am doing my Final Year Project about a sensory research on the color and style of women s lingerie, could you tell me some ideas about how color or style affect the buying decision of the customer? Do you think a lot of people only buy lingerie of plain or simple style in black, white or nude? Jenny: Many people buy basic colors and styles, but other colors could be the elements which attract the customers to come into the shop. But styles such as cup shape do matter. They may consider the style of the shoulder strap because it may be easy to show. Page 11
Company Visit to ACE Style Intimate Apparel (UK) Limited - Studio 183 Interview with Ms Tracy Rogan, the Commercial Director of Studio 183: Author: I would like to know what is the main job of this office? Is there any differences compared with Hong Kong office? Tracy: This office is basically a design studio. We generate inspirations and ideas and come up with beautiful design. We usually develop two collections each year. Like now we are working on the collection for 2011 Winter, and it will be ready around the coming Chinese New Year. The Hong Kong Office mostly focus on technical design, which interprets our ideas and designs into real garment. Author: So how do you usually work, coordinate or communicate with the Hong Kong office? Tracy: We firstly come up with design ideas, then we send the sketches or technical drawings to Hong Kong. Hong Kong will then develop the product into real sample garment and send back to us for fitting. Author: How do the designers generate design idea or inspiration? Tracy: We basically offer the consulting service. We target mass market, and we selling our clients inspirations or concepts rather than real products. Author: As I am doing my Final Year Project about a sensory research on the color and style of women s lingerie, could you tell me some ideas about how color or style affect the buying decision of the customer? Tracy: Usually the outwear matters. They will consider whether the lingerie will show or whether the color and style match the outfit. For example they may need lingerie with a clear back to math their evening dress. The trend or lifestyle also affect their choice. For example, now we are promoting health and nature. People may like lingerie with feeling like water flowing. Author: Do a lot of people buy lingerie of plain or simple style in black, white or nude? Tracy: Yes, people usually buy basic carrier. But they will also consider to try something new. That s why we are trying to come up with new ideas every season. For example, the length of women s panty has changed from long to short and now turn to medium. Tracy: Their design usually start with a mood or inspiration board. First of all we will have trend consult for yarns, fabrics and colors. Then we set four themes for each collection according to the trend forecasting. After that we source for materials according to the theme we set, and then we build the mood board. Author: Do you have any target market for the product you design? Page 12
Mode City 2010 ---- the leading international exhibition for intimates, beachwear and lingerie industry. Visit to Museums and Galleries Visit to Boutique and Department Stores Page 13
Overall Reflections & Conclusion This Summer Practical Training fully helped me to integrate the theories I learnt from the book into real practice. During the internship, I got to know about the basic process of operation as well as the philosophy of intimate apparel business, the way they work and communicate. I enhanced my allaround skills such as teamwork, communication, time management and problem solving. What is more, I feel more clear about my strengths and weaknesses and will improve myself through being more active and asking more questions. The study tour is a refreshing experience for me as well. I visited cities such as London, Rome and Paris, all of which are full of atmosphere of unique eastern art, history and culture. The professional knowledges I gained from company visit as well as the Paris fair is very practical and fresh. I also met a lot of people who have rich experience in industry from professional technician to marketing experts who are really kind to share their viewpoints to me. Overall, this Summer Practical Training guided me to learn and apply more effectively, and inspire me to generate new ideas and think in different ways and angles when I am doing my study and research. The experience do help me to know more about this industry, and lead the directions of my future study and career. It is really a memorable, meaningful and incredible learning experience. Page 14