E-HAIR COLLEGE 1. Read Chapter in Salon Fundamental textbook. 2. Complete study guide. 3. Read these additional notes. 4. For review go to Practice online and review quizzes, puzzles. 5. Study and complete Test LESSON # 17 The Study of the Nail Products and tools used in manicuring. The structure of the nail. Nail growth, nail disorders. The steps of a manicure.
Products and tools used in manicuring. Manicure Products and Tools Disinfectant used to clean tables, kills bacteria and some viruses depending on the chemical ingredients. Antiseptic used to reduce the spread of bacteria. Styptic powder, pencil or liquid used to stop the bleeding. Polish remover removes nail polish, can be purchased in acetone or non-acetone. Acetone nail polish remover should not be used on gel nails it will dissolve them. Cotton balls absorb product such as nail polish remover or cuticle oil for application on fingers. Cuticle remover used to loosen dead cuticles around the nail wall. Cuticle remover contains a low percentage of hydrogen peroxide, sodium or potassium hydroxide. Nail bleach used for removing stains and whitening nails. Soaking solution softens skin loosens dirt, aids in pushing back cuticle. Cuticle cream or oil softens cuticle skin, moisturizes brittle nails. Hand lotion assists in massage, softens nails and skin. Base coat evens out nail plate, holds nail color. Stops colored nail polishes from staining the nail plate.
Liquid polish comes in a variety of colors and is applied in two coats on the nail plate, over the base coat. Top coat also called sealer. Locks in color and prevents chipping and flaking of nail polish. Nail spray dryer used to dry nail polish quicker, sprayed on after the nails are polished. Nail conditioner applied to nails after polish is applied and dry, to add moisture to the skin. Nail mender fiber a fabric usually silk used for broken nails as a patch. Glue is added over the fabric to create a strong bond and hold the crack or split until the nail can grow out. Nail strengthener used for strengthening nails and prevents brittle nails from splitting or peeling. Liquid nail wrap polish that contains fibers; this will strengthen the nail and create a stronger nail. Emery board used for filing nails and shaping them into the desired shape. Cuticle pusher pushes cuticles back so they are off the nail plate. Orangewood stick also known as birch wood stick, loosens debris under free edge, used for making q-tips for applying product to the nail plate. Cuticle nipper trims hangnails Nail and cuticle scissors cuts and trims nails and hangnails. Nail brush assists in removing dirt and loose skin from the fingertips prior to polishing. Tweezers used for picking up stencils for nail art.
Block buffer / 3 way buffer smoothes surface of the nail with a variety of textures of files. Cosmetic spatula removes creams from jars, do not place in jar more than once if the spatula has come in contact with the skin. Finger bowl water, shampoo and antiseptic should be used in a finger bowl to cleanse the skin prior to beginning the manicure. Towels are kept handy in case of spills. Manicure table provides a place for all tools to be laid out for the manicure service. Wet disinfectant jar a 2 oz. jar used to place disinfectant for metal implements to be sanitized during the manicure. Covered container used for storing cotton balls and nail wipes. Nail clipper used for cutting the nails shorter before you file. Structure of the nail. Free edge is part of the nail that extends past the tip of the finger. Nail body also called the nail plate, the visible nail area from the nail root to the free edge. Nail wall the folds of the skin on either side of the nail. Lunula the half-moon shaped area at the base of the nail. Eponychium is the cuticle that overlaps the lunula at the base of the nail.
Cuticle the loose pliable skin that surrounds the nail plate. Nail matrix the active tissue that generates cells, which harden as they move outward from the root to the nail. Nail root attached to the matrix at the base of the nail, under the skin and inside the mantle. Mantle is the pocket like structure that holds the root and matrix. Nail bed this is the area that the nail rests and the nail is nourished. Nail grooves tracks on either sides of the nail that the nail moves on as it grows. Perionychium is the skin that touches, overlaps and surrounds the nail. Hyponychium is the skin under the free edge. Nail growth, nail disorders Nail Also called Onyx, an appendage of the skin, the horny translucent, protective plate that protects the tips of fingers and toes. It is part of the integumentary system. The nail is made of keratin protein. Nail growth originates from active tissue known as matrix, located in the mantle. The matrix contains lymph, blood vessels and nerves that create cells, which are pushed outward from the nail root. These cells keratinize and become fully hardened by the time they reach the eponychium. Growth of a new nail takes four to six weeks.
Nail disorders If a disease is noticed no nail service should be performed. If a disorder is found on the nail care must be taken but the nail service can be done. Blue or discolored nails caused by poor circulation a heart condition or oral medications. Bruised nails- caused by bumping the nail Corrugations are wavy ridges caused by uneven growth of nails, usually a result of illness or injury. Corrugations can also be caused from excessive use of harsh chemicals. Eggshell nails thin white nail that is very thin and breakable. Furrows depressions that can run lengthwise across the nail result from illness or injury to the nail cells in or near the matrix; can be caused by pregnancy or stress. Hangnail is as split cuticle caused by dryness of the cuticle, cutting off too much cuticle, carelessly removing cuticle tissue. Infected finger is red and has swelling or pain, pus may occur. Leukonychia are white spots caused by injury to base of nail. Melanonychia darkening of the nails, may be seen as a black band under or within the nail plate, extending from the base to free edge. Onychatrophia Atrophy or wasting away of the nail. Onychophagy bitten nails caused by an acquired nervous habit. Onychorrhexis lines on the nail plate caused by injury, careless filing, vitamin deficiencies, and illness and over use of strong cleaning
chemicals. Pterygium forward growth of the eponychium or cuticle. Nail fungus highly contagious, transmitted through unsanitary implements and work conditions. Nail fungus can be spread from nail to nail or person to person. Avoid by proper disinfection and sanitation practices.
STEPS IN A BASIC MANICURE 1. Prepare table and assemble materials. 2. Have client wash hands (wash your hands too). 3. Remove jewelry. 4. Examine client s hands and nails. 5. Remove old polish. 6. Shape nails on left hand then place in fingerbowl to soak. 7. Shape nails on right hand. 8. Remove left hand and dry thoroughly. 9. Apply cuticle remover with orangewood stick to cuticles and push back. 10. Clean under free edge 11. Soak right hand in fingerbowl 12. Apply cuticle remover to left hand, remove right hand and soak left. 13. Brush cuticles to remove dead cuticles 14. Push back cuticles with cuticle pusher. 15. Do the same to the left hand. 16. Massage right hand and then left, including arm and elbow 17. Remove cream with polish remover 18. Apply base coat 19. Apply two coats of color polish 20. Apply top coat. 21. Let dry 15 minutes Supplies: Towels Nail file and nail clipper Finger bowl ( fill with warm soapy water) Orangewood stick Cuticle remover Cotton Polish remover Polish, base coat, top coat Cuticle pusher
PRACTICE HAND FOR POLISH APPLICATION