Shoemaking & Techniques for Creative Footwear Design http://svetakletina.blogspot.co.il/ 1
Introduction... 3 1. Classic models of shoes and why you need them.... 4 2. Must know pattern points or the secret of making correct pattern from the first time.... 10 3. Don't wait for a muse, rely on design process techniques.... 21 4. The bad the good and the ugly- 3 Methods of footwear design.... 24 5. Shortcut to creative footwear design - Freehand Pattern Construction Technique.... 37 6. How to build an entire collection just with 2 types of lasts.... 38 2
Introduction I want to be inspired. I want to be inspired by artists, by creative and passionate people. My goal is to share my knowledge to inspire others, to create and innovate because the progress is made by innovators. This book is all about creative design, about creative shoemaking and techniques that you can use in your creations. This is the first time I share my Freehand Pattern Construction Technique, that I use in my work. This is the only natural 3D pattern making without using computer software technique and it's protected by copyright laws. You are welcome to use it in your work but you cannot teach without my permission. Sveta Kletina 3
1. Classic models of shoes and why you need them. As you create your design you want to make the next Ferrari of shoes, but as building a luxury or any other car for that matter you have to know the rules for your design, so it won't die in the development process. Knowing the rules gives you the creative freedom you need and push you one step forward towards realizing your creation. Great, now as we established that understanding, here are the rules and I think we are done. Well, it could be the case if I wanted to teach you a trick, but no tricks here, repeating the same formula, over and over again will just bring you from point A to point B, my intentions is to take you all the way. Those rules are legislated by foot structure and characteristics of shoe models (types), that based on them all types of footwear designs was created, the classic shoes. Those types of models established their structure for many decades through the history, influenced by changes in the society, culture and fashion. To understand what are classic shoes, we need to follow one criteria. Classic shoes structure always looks the same, always has been and always will be. Try to think of it as of classical music, the composition always stays the same. Although, there are many types of shoes that were created hundreds years ago, they fail to stand in this criteria, because their structure is not strict and can be interpreted in varies ways. Classic shoes and different variations of their historical footwear family are playing important role in shoemaking history, not just as an origin for all shoe designs. According to them strict pattern points for making correct shoe design were found (full pattern points map- see chapter two). Using this method, shoe models are created so the shoe will feet perfectly and each of those types has their distinguished shoe last, that strictly stands in the requirements of this model(see chapter six). As in this book I concentrate on women shoes design, one thing have to be clear, women classic shoe models are evolved from men classic models. They own very similar design and pattern, but the main difference between them is, that women shoes has more freedom in their structure as in a men shoes, the classic model has exact strict rules for making those types of patterns. My primary list of classic women shoes as I see it, including four models that go by the same strict rules for centuries and will never change; 1. Derby shoes 2. Oxford shoes 3. Moccasin shoes 4. Pumps shoes 4
Derby shoes Those are open laces shoes, in which the side parts are sewn on the front side. That's why when the laces are lose, the sides are wide open. Oxford shoes Those are close laced shoes, in which the side parts are tied with a laces and are sewn under the front part. The sides are close together and hide the thong, that is sewn under the laces. 5
Moccasin shoes Side part and details of this model is made from one piece, sewn together with a thong. Pumps shoes Short shoes with low vamps. 6
Second group of shoes that contributed for the creation of pattern points rules are Boots and Sandals. They were created hundreds years ago but as I mentioned earlier, had no consistent pattern structure and can be made in many ways. For example, Roman sandals, is one of the oldest designs that are exist but the variation of this design is endless, are the straps straight or crossed, open or closed instep and many others. Although there are no strict rules for making those models, some conclusions were made and pattern points were created, to make less mistakes in those types of shoes as much as possible. 1. Boots 7
2. Sandals 8
As society and fashion evolved and new designs were created, they of course were based on the classic models but with a twist. They created new points that were added to the strict pattern rules and this is the third group of shoes that contributed for the creation of pattern points. 1. Chanel shoes 2. D'orsay Shoes 3. T Strap Pumps 9
2. Must know pattern points or the secret of making correct pattern from the first time. In this chapter I will show you the "Golden Points" that will help you to create correct design, with less mistakes if following those rules. For all types of models we always mark the central line in front (AB) and in the back. We also find points F on the outer side of the last and D on the inner side, this is the most broad part of the last. We find them by placing the last to the side of the table, from the outer and inner sides (F,D). We connect the points D, F with a line and at the connection of lines FD and AB, we find point C. On the central line at the heel we mark point H, 54 mm from the edge of the heel up (for size 37, to every next size we add 1mm). We find point F1 on the middle of line CF. Based on this our primary points for almost all types of shoes are H, F, F1, C. 11
Pumps Shoes: Safe zone for modeling in pumps, its H, F1, C, B, F. Inside this zone we can make any design of the neckline. From the point H towards the heel we can have any length, 18. 18.5,19, etc. For the high heel max depth of neckline is 20cm. Ex: On the picture I made the depth of the neckline 19cm. This is line HK. Through point K, I draw a parallel line to line F1C. This is how we find point C1. Connecting points F1, C1 we can create any design for the neckline, lines blue &red, they can be higher or lower of line HF1 on a few millimeters. 11
Chanel: We create it by the same rules as the pumps with small corrections: Point H is 57mm height so the strap wouldn't slip the foot. Line LM, this is the line where we place the buckle and we mark it 5cm from the point H. 12
D'orsay: We create it by the same rules as the pumps with small corrections: it's important, that the line in front will go through point F1. Line HP(depended on your design) looks better when it connects with the line of the heel. 13
T Strap: We create it by the same rules as the pumps with small corrections: Maximum height of T strap is 13 cm from point B. (This is point Y). 14
Moccasin: We create it by the same rules as the pumps with small corrections: Line of the thong begins at point F1, and his max height is 13 cm (point Y). Point F2 is (decorative pocket) at distance of 2-5 mm from point F1. 15
Derby: As in pumps his structure is build from points H, F1, C. Side line will cross the point O. Point O, is 5mm distance from point F1. O, O1 is parallel C, F1. The height of side line, where the laces are (ON) is depends on the quantity of holes. Taken into account that, the distance between the holes is 1 cm. O1 is the first hole. If there is 3 holes, the height of this line is 4 cm. If there is 5 holes, it will be 6cm etc. Line NN1 is 90 degrees to line AB. Line N1J is 15 mm( the thong). Point X is placed in the middle of line HN1. Through point X we draw 90 degrees line to line HF1. Point O2 ( a stopper point - where the side part is stitch to ) is marked on the line ON, in distance of 1cm from point O. 16
Oxford: We create it by the same rules as Derby with small corrections: There is no point O and the side line starts from the point C. If we want to divide the pattern in front, line EE1. It looks better if the point E1=2/3 of line H1FB. 17
Sandal: His safe zone is HX1YBTFH1: H1H=57mm. BY=13 cm. (this is max hight of the sandal) X=1/2 of HY. Through point X we draw 90 degrees line to lines HF1. ML is the line of the buckle, at is in the distance of 5cm from point H. Point T-where the pinky toe is. We find at 17.5 cm from point H1. 18
Boot: PWONC is a basic boot pattern. Point N is the access point. We find it as we fold the basic pattern, so her edge will reach point W. W=1/2 of line OP. In the Pic 3, Line 1 is 90 degrees to line 2. OP is the height of the heel. 19
Point A- is in a distance of 2mm from the edge of the basic pattern. In the Pic 3, through point N we draw 90 degrees line to line 1. Line KF is in a distance of 2cm from the edge of the basic pattern. Line KF= 12.5cm and is 90 degrees to line LF. / For boots without a zipper KF=14.8cm. Line PK1= 17cm. Line K1L is 90 degrees to line NF. / For boots without a zipper K1L=15.8cm Line K2P= 27 cm. Line K2M=17.5cm. / For boots without a zipper K2M=17.2cm. Line K3P =38.5cm. / For boots without a zipper K3D= 17.2cm. Line K3D=17cm. This is how we construct high boot with a zipper. Based on this pattern you can create boot of any height. All point are for size 37 as the prototype model is developed for this size. 21
3. Don't wait for a muse, rely on design process techniques. The hardest part in the design process is to find your inspiration, to set yourself on the right path that you know you want to walk on. It never comes to you by demand, most of the time it is the opposed. You find yourself lost, praying for the muse to enter your imagination, but more you push, more pressure you fill. There is a technique to stimulate your inspiration, so you don't have to wait for muse no more, so you will not fill pressure if you need to create shoes for your upcoming collection or there is a client or a boss sitting on your back, waiting for results, these is the way : Collect, Research and Develop Remember, you always have subjects, objects, images that interest you. Don't wait for them to talk to you, you have to make them talk. Make your pick and dig dipper, collect everything you can about this subject, all the information, images, texts, objects. See yourself as an detective, collecting information about the suspect, getting familiar with the subject that you are investigating. Then collect all of the information that you gained and place it on a wall, it can be any type of wall, wooden wall, cardboard, whatever you'll find, just make sure it is in the place reachable for you, this is your visual information. These is how you get your "Moodboard" as it used in this industry by designers and actually in many other industries as well. It's easier to see the whole picture where you have it in front of you. Now, when you gathered all your information, all the images, all the objects that involved in the process you need to research your Moodboard, underline all the common, all the characteristics that combines those images, these information and find one strong, distinctive feature, that will be the key for finding the concept for your collection. For example: In my "Bridge project", my Moodboard consisted from pictures of Santiago Calatrave bridges, inside structures of ships, fish skeletons, oysters, human anatomy-mussels, leg, back. I understood that what combines them, what drove my interest was: shape, form, space that was created by straps, any kind of straps, it could be a leather, fabric, metal. This was my key, my concept and now I needed to transform it to the shoes. Why you need concept? Why you need this A plan, why you can't just make something pretty, something shinny, that will look cute on a feet?! 1. It is impossible to reach your goal, without knowing where you going. 21
2. You don't know what are you looking for. 3. Without finding the concept your designs will be stuck in the collecting stage, you will collect options for designs not the actual design. 4. Concept will help you build visual characteristics, that you want to reach in your design. Now it is the most important stage in the process, creation of the inspiration. Logical understanding of the process, that is your concept, (ex. creating a space/form using straps) combined with the emotion of happiness, excitement from this revelation, you by yourself create inspiration. Acknowledging the logical process of finding your answer is pushing you forward to try this experience and develop it from the concept into actual object. Next stage is Development of a product, remember, don't copy the idea, translate your concept into the footwear. This way the shoes will gain new quality based on the concept and still containing their classic look. It will be a mistake to copy the details of your concept into a shoe, it will turn your shoe into illustration or as I like to call it a costume for a shoe. 22
The sole pattern are build this way, that is contain arc on which elastic cords are attached. They are creating the shape and in the same time holding the foot, so for it not to be presented as an costume, details of the design have to be functional( see chapter four). After drawing many designs as possible, you chose the ones that are most specific connect with your idea and from them create your second Moodboard. In a time you will add leathers and materials that you want to work with to this board, everything that will be and will create your collection. For those of you who can't draw, can take a picture of a last that they are working with and draw on the picture, it will make the process easier for you. 23
4. The bad the good and the ugly- 3 Methods of footwear design. Creative design, is it depends on a method that we are using as a designers? Is it possible to achieve in one method and useless in the other? What is creative design and how to use it when you deep in dead-end niche? I divided the 3 methods into groups, not because each group certainly represent this word, but the general feeling that I encounter as a person and as a designer from each one of them. The Bad- Design through decorative & pattern method The Good- Design through pattern method The Ugly- Decorative method in footwear design This is my evaluation for each method and everyone have to pick the right method for himself, but no matter which method you conduct, it have to be creative, it have to be fresh, it have to be your own. No one of those methods are easier than the other, it's personal preference, and it's have to stay in rotation. Decorative method - original classic pattern with decorative elements. Maybe this is one of the hardest methods to innovate, because of it limitations. Useable in the main stream footwear market in most non organic way, meaning that decorative items usually have no place on those shoes. There is no meaning to this design or even no design at all. Definition of design is, creation of a plan for construction, not having a plan or a concept for your design creates random collection of items, that if we will remove them from their position, nothing will happen. Creative design is most needed in this method, and certainly possible to do if creating shoes with a concept, idea. Following the concept established in chapter 3, we have a few ways to do so: 1. Combination of opposite materials can create fresh and interesting look. * Velvet as a basic material and sack cloth as an accessory. * Gold and wood * Silk and fur 24
2. Combination of colors. * Useable colors in the industry are usually monochrome, safe colors and using more natural gamma you can achieve a flower look of shoes. * Using color you can emphasize a specific structure of a shoe, creating illusion of a form. 3. Create new, unused accessories, or renew the existing ones. * Leather stripes tied together will create fresh and new kind of a bow tie. 25
* Use all the suggestions to create new, different accessories. 4. Shoes are our canvas on which we can draw, creating depth and perspective, adding whatever is missing on the pattern. If you creating a collection for a factory, now days the print is most common to be used, so you easily can achieve it. If you designing shoes for yourself it's even easier, and you can test it right away. 26
5. Make texture of your shoes. * Slice the leather of your pattern and thread a cord or any other element, like leather. * Change how the leather looks, shape it, scrape it, cover some areas with wax. 6. Create volume. * Accessories are always placed on the top layer, but what if we lower them one layer down and place them under the upper. It will create different shape using the same components. 27
All my suggestions have to combined in to the same concept of the creation. Now it's not so ugly anymore. 28
Design through decorative & pattern method- connecting engineering pattern and decorative element into same design. This method is aimed to reach greatness in footwear design, combining innovation in footwear pattern with decorative elements that are upgrading his value. Well, the problem is that apparently it's not so easy to make and most of the time this kind of design looks overwhelming, with too much unneeded parts that have no relationship between them. It gives you the feeling that it's eat not done structure, that the creator couldn't figure out how to complete this idea, and to cover it up he made some kind of decoration. It's like watching a bad edit movie, you know the jump cut's are not suppose to be there but they are hiding behind fancy visual effects. To make it a great idea, you have to make just one change and it's, make the decorative element functional. That means, converting the decorative element into integral part of the pattern. So it will continue the pattern, emphasis it, and be one with the pattern. Don't forget, all of that have to rely on your concept, your A plan. 29
How do we do it: * use functional decorative elements, cords/bows that hold the foot, buckles to close the pattern, elastic band that is as functional as decorative.(see ex.) * knits to hold the pattern or that are creating layers. 31
Decorative element that are functional and now is a part of the pattern is not so bad anymore. 31
Design through pattern method- engineering and upgrading classic footwear pattern. This method is the most difficult of the three but in the same time it is the most certain way that will lead you to innovation, the way that sets your mind on a fly mode and gives you the most freedom in your creation. Imagine that all you have is a last and a piece of leather and you have to create something new. If in the decorative &pattern method you used the decorative element to upgrade the pattern, in this method you creating this element from the pattern and in the pattern. Only element that you are using to decorate your shoes is the same leather that is used for the basic pattern. If you think of it for a moment, here you are transformed from being designer to being the architect of this structure. In this method you are searching inside the classic pattern lines (Gold Points) and beyond them for new segments that will create new and improved pattern. How to do it: 1. Using the pattern lines we create new forms for shoes design, using regular lasts. 32
2. Create such a pattern that his parts are contradictive one to the other. 3. Raw seam on soft and smooth lines of pattern. 4. Creating asymmetrical patterns, this approach is very helps innovating ordinary shoes design. 5. Try to divide the pattern into geometrical pieces, for example, rounded and parallel lines that are repeating the edge lines of the last. 33
6. Create leather texture using pattern. 34
7. Create using pattern untraditional fasting element. 8. Use folds with any of the mentioned above to create innovative pattern. 35
9. Create using pattern, decorative element (it could be a 3D element using the Freehand construction technique). Watch the HD video that comes with a book. 36
5. Shortcut to creative footwear design - Freehand Pattern Construction Technique. In my search for new ways to create shoes, and pattern I developed technique that allows me to create 3D models of any type of shoes. I named this technique, Freehand Pattern Construction Technique, the advantage of this technique that compared to the ordinary pattern making techniques, that makes it difficult to create 3D element and many verification are needed, in my technique I do it in a real time, right there on the last. You can, in real time, change and correct complex pattern, keeping the right proportions without need to sketch the design. How you do it: 1. To already made basic pattern, lasted on the last, new elements are added,( it can be from paper or leather): * It can be already made elements, then they are glued and formed to the basic pattern as you wish. They are cut into pieces together with the basic pattern, after we pull it off the last, as they can't be from one piece. * Look for the attached video tutorial. * The basic pattern can be sliced up and new segments can be added. The secret of this technique is holds in the lining pattern, that is never changed, no matter what you do with the upper. The lining have to keep the original rules, based on the type of shoes that you are creating. This technique is called Freehand because it allows you to create any type of design without drawing the technical design of a model. As I motioned in the 3 chapter, you can apply piece of leather to the last and using this technique create the design that you are desire. 37
6. How to build an entire collection just with 2 types of lasts. There are many types of shoe last that are divided by the height of the heel, by the form of the toe, and have different part structure to pull off the models from the last. As I mentioned in the first chapter, last are divided by the types of shoe models. Here are the most common shoe last that are used: Last for Pumps: It is made specific for pumps, so it is narrow at the instep. You can also make, Channel, T strep pumps and MaryJanes. Last for Moccasins : It is wider in the toe area then it is in the pumps, and opens only in vertical way. 38
Last for shoes with laces - Derby & Oxford shoes. It's also suited to make a Penny loafer shoes. It has curve in the instep, just like our feet and that's what divides it from pump last. Last for open toe shoes: It is shorter than a regular pump last. Last for sandal: It is maximum drawn near the actual foot measure, meaning it is wide in the toe. 39
Last for boots with a zipper: Last for boots without a zipper: It allows the foot smoothly enter she boot. That is why it is much wider then boots with zipper. There are hybrid lasts, for example, combination of sandal and boots. It is made to create open boots for the summer. To create shoe collection it is not necessary to own all of those lasts. Technical knowledge of constructing a pattern and creative approach will allow you, to create entire winter collection only with pumps shoe last and with a sandal last you can create the entire summer collection. Why specific the pumps shoes are the best to create an collection from them?! Because the Pumps shoes you can make only, and strictly on the pumps last, but all the other types can fit the pumps last with a small changes. 41
How we build a collection: I already established that, channel, Mary Jane and T strap is feet to this last and need no changes, so by creating those 3 models you can already start your collection. Now Derby, Loafers and Oxford are higher in the instep so we need to add thick piece of leather for them to feet their model construction. (use veg-tan leather). To create boots you don't need the boot last. Basic your model on the pump shoe last you can create pattern for boots with zipper. It is created in the same way as I described in a chapter 2 ( boot points) with small adjustments. Line in front of the boot, we draw not through point N but through point N1. N1=PN+1cm. Line PK=12.5cm. PWONC is a basic boot pattern. Point N is the access point. We find it as we fold the basic pattern, so her edge will reach point W. W=1/2 of line OP. In the Pic 3, Line 1 is 90 degrees to line 2. OP is the height of the heel. Point A- is in a distance of 2mm from the edge of the basic pattern. 41
In the Pic 3, through point N we draw 90 degrees line to line 1. Line KF is in a distance of 2cm from the edge of the basic pattern. Line KF= 12.5cm and is 90 degrees to line LF. Line PK1= 17cm. Line K1L is 90 degrees to line NF. Line K2P= 27 cm. Line K2M=17.5cm. Line K3P =38.5cm. Line K3D=17cm. This is how we construct high boot with a zipper. Based on this pattern you can create boot of any height. You can also use more creative approach, and instead of placing a piece of leather on the last, you can add elastic band to your derby and oxford upper, that will allow it to stretch and fit your pump last perfectly. The same trick can be used for the boots as well. Using those pump lasts I build this collection, with a help of Freehand Technique: 42
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Creating Summer Collection Using the sandal last, when I change the form of sole in the toe area, I change the sandal design. For example; with rounded toe sandal last I can change the toe design of the sole to be more pointy, square, whatever I need, it doesn't affect the pattern. I may change the heel form, and no one will ever know that I made my entire summer collection from the same sandal last. Using creative approach in sandal pattern making, (dividing the pattern by the golden rules) will give you endless possibilities to make glorious collection. 46
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