207 Acknowledgement 4 Introduction 5 Design and pattern cutting for babywear and children s wear 6 The growth of children and adolescents 8 Tools and equipment for making patterns 10 Chapter 1 The basic principles sizing using the blocks Metric sizing and size charts 12 Methods of measuring body dimensions 14 Drafting the blocks for individual figures 14 Chapter index Part one: Flat cutting babywear (birth 2 years) Chapter 2 Specific babywear blocks The flat body blocks babywear The flat jersey body block 24 The flat woven fabric body block 24 The flat overgarment block 26 The kimono block and flat sleeve cutting 26 The flat trouser blocks babywear The two-piece trouser block 28 The one-piece trouser block 28 The one-piece sleepsuit block 30 Part two: Flat cutting basic garments (1 14 years) Chapter 4 The flat blocks woven and jersey fabrics The flat body blocks The flat body block and shirt block 40 The flat sleeveless body block 42 The flat overgarment block 42 The kimono block and flat sleeve cutting 44 The kimono block the flat dolman sleeve 44 The kimono block the flat raglan sleeve 46 Standard body measurements: birth 2 years 16 Standard body measurements: girls 3 14 years 17 Standard body measurements: boys 3 14 years 18 Body measurements for plus sizes: girls 3 14 years 19 Body measurements for plus sizes: boys 3 14 years 20 Using the blocks 21 From block to pattern 22 Chapter 3 Specific babywear adaptations 1 Trousers 32 1a Jersey trousers 32 1b Basic dungaree trousers 32 2 Trousers extra fullness 32 One-piece version 32 3 Romper 1 (jersey) 34 4 Romper 2 (jersey) 34 5 Romper 3 34 6 Snowsuit 1 36 7 Overjacket 36 8 Snowsuit 2 36 9 Tee shirts 38 10 Gathered knickers 1 38 11 Gathered knickers 2 38 The kimono block the shaped flat raglan sleeve 46 The tee shirt and knitwear blocks 48 The flat trouser and skirt blocks The flat one-piece trouser block 50 The flat two-piece trouser block 52 The flat skirt block 52 The jeans block close-fitting 54 The underwear blocks 56 COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL
208 Part two: Flat cutting basic garments (1 14 years) (continued) Chapter 5 Basic tops, dresses and skirts for girls Basic simple skirts 1a Circular skirt 58 1b Half circular skirt 58 2a Very gathered skirt 58 2b Slightly gathered skirt 58 3 Flared skirt 58 4 Flared and gathered skirt 58 Basic dresses and tops 1 Basic dress 60 2 Basic blouse 60 3 Flat A line dress 60 4 Yoke dress 62 5 Smocked dress 62 6 Sleeveless dress 64 7 Pinafore 64 Easy-fitting dresses and tops 1 Kimono shape 1 66 2 Kimono shape 2 66 3 Shirt style dresses and tops 68 Chapter 6 Overgarments for girls and boys 1 Basic jacket 70 2 Jeans jacket 70 3 Overjacket 72 4 Duffle coat 72 5 Anorak 1 74 6 Anorak 2 74 7 Styled weathercoat 76 8 Overalls 76 Chapter 7 Sport and leisurewear for girls and boys 1 Basic tee shirts 80 2 Tee dresses 80 3 Body fitting tops 80 4 Swimwear 1 80 5 Swimwear 2 80 6 Swimwear 3 80 7 Easy-fitting sports shirt 82 8 Easy-fitting jersey wear 82 9 Styled jersey wear 82 10 Dungaree trousers 84 11 Dungaree skirts 84 12 Easy-fitting trousers 86 13 Sports shorts 86 Chapter 8 Nightwear for boys and girls Jersey nightwear 1 Simple pyjama shape 88 2 A line pyjamas 88 3 Fleecy night jacket 88 The flat pyjama block 90 Classic nightwear 4 Nightdress 92 5 Nightshirt 92 6 Bathrobe or dressing gown 92
Part three: Standard pattern cutting processes (birth 14 years) Chapter 9 Constructing sleeves Simple sleeve adaptations 1 Short sleeve 96 2 Cap sleeve 96 3 Gathered (puff) sleeve 96 4 Gathered sleeve head 96 5a Flared sleeves 98 5b Flared sleeve with cuffs 98 6 Sleeve with extra flare 98 7 Sleeve with flared sections 98 8 Gathered or flared and gathered sections 100 9 Gathered and flared sleeve 100 10 Tulip sleeve 100 Complex sleeve adaptations Lowered armholes 102 11 Semi-shaped sleeves 102 12 Dropped shoulder 104 13 Extended sleeve with yoke 104 14 Raglan sleeve 106 15 Flared raglan sleeve 106 16 Easy-fitting raglan sleeve 106 Cuffs 108 Chapter 10 Constructing openings, collars and hoods Front openings 1a Standard front 110 1b Extended facing 110 209 2 Double breasted front 110 3 Standard zip front 110 3a Strap for zip front 110 4 Simple fly front 110 Collars basic principles Collar construction terms 112 Lowering the neckline 112 Measuring the neckline 112 Collar shapes 112 Top collars 112 Simple collars 1 Standing straight collar 114 2 Convertible collar 114 3 Shirt collar 114 3a Shirt collar with band 114 4 Basic flat collar (Peter Pan) 114 5 Eton collar 114 6 Collar on lowered neckline 116 7 Sailor collar 116 8 Frilled collar 116 9 Simple roll collar 116 Classic formal collars 10 Standard blazer collar 118 11 Standard rever collar 118 12 Changing the style line 118 Hoods 1 Hood 1 120 2 Hood 2 120
210 Part four: Form cutting schoolwear and formal wear (3 14 years) Chapter 11 Classic blocks for schoolwear and formal wear The classic skirt and trouser blocks The classic skirt blocks: girls 122 The classic trouser block: girls 124 The classic trouser block: boys 126 The classic shirt blocks The classic shirt block: girls and younger boys 128 The classic shirt block: boys 130 The classic body blocks The classic overgarment block: girls and younger boys 132 The classic overgarment block: boys 134 The classic blazer block: girls and boys 136 The classic bodice block: girls 138 Shaping the classic bodice block: girls 138 The classic dress block: girls 140 The formal coat block: girls 142 The one piece sleeve block: girls and boys 144 The two piece sleeve block: girls and boys 146 Chapter 12 Pattern adaptations for schoolwear Skirts and trousers 1 Standard waistband 150 2 Elasticated waistband 150 3a Faced waistline 150 3b Shaped waistband 150 4 Shaped elasticated waistband 150 5 Tunic skirt 150 6 Skirt with box pleat vent pleat 152 7 Skirt with inverted pleats 152 8 Skirt with back and front pleats 152 9 Flared skirts without darts 154 10 Flared skirts with darts 154 11 Four gored skirt 154 12 Basic trousers girls 156 13 Styled trousers girls 156 14 Basic trousers boys 158 Body garments School shirts, blouses and dresses 160 1 School blazer boys 160 2 School blazer girls 160 3 School coat girls 162 4 Classic overjacket or overcoat boys 162 Chapter 13 Pattern adaptations for girls formal wear Classic one-piece dress shapes 166 1 Classic princess line dress 166 2 Classic A line dress or tunic 166 Classic waisted dresses 168 3 Classic waisted dress 168 4 Party dress 168 5 Low waisted dress 170 6 Panelled dress 170 7 Styled jacket children 172 8 Closer fitting styled jacket with bust dart 172 9 Classic formal coat young children 174 Part five: Form cutting constructing blocks for girls with developing figures (11 14 years) Chapter 14 The basic blocks and size charts Body measurements and size chart 176 The classic bodice block 178 Using the bust dart in styles 178 Shaping the bodice block 180 The dress block 180 The classic jacket and overgarment block 182 The classic trouser block 184 The classic skirt block 186
Part six: Grading patterns (birth 14 years) Chapter 15 Grading patterns for babywear and children s wear Pattern grading Grading techniques 188 Grading the flat blocks Babies and infants: the flat body, overgarment and trouser blocks: girls and boys, sizes 56 92cm height 189 Children s wear: sizes 98 170cm height The flat two-piece trouser block girls and boys 190 The flat one-piece trouser block girls and boys 191 211 The flat skirt block girls 191 The flat body, shirt and overgarment blocks girls 192 The flat body, shirt and overgarment blocks boys 192 Grading the form (classic) blocks Children s wear: sizes 98 170cm height The classic bodice and overgarment blocks girls 194 The classic overgarment blocks boys 196 The classic trouser block girls 198 The classic trouser block boys 199 The classic tailored skirt blocks girls 200