TECHNICAL MANUAL
CONTENTS From KeraStraight s Brazilian Laboratories to Great Britain and the world, KeraStraight has set the benchmark in the industry for beautifully conditioned, frizz free hair. Created by hairdresser, salon owner and entrepreneur, Jez Barnett, the KeraStraight brand was introduced to the market in 2009 and has evolved into a range of world leading insalon treatments and products that answer the needs of hairdressers and the dreams of clients. The Transformation 2 The Consultation 3 The Science 4 The KeraStraight Advantages 5 KS Ultimate & Colour 7 KS Ultimate Step by Step 8 KeraStraight Intense Boost 12 Intense Boost Step by Step 13 KeraStraight Products 14 KeraStraight Maintenance 15 Ultimate Oil 16 KS Style 17 FAQs 19 Troubleshooting 20 Build Big Business 21 1
WHAT IS KERASTRAIGHT? KeraStraight is a semi-permanent hair repair, straightening and smoothing system that transforms dry, damaged or unruly hair into stronger, straighter, repaired hair that s easy to maintain and feels incredible. WHAT IS INTENSE BOOST? A fast in-salon service that gives intensive conditioning and repair to the hair in just 30 minutes that lasts up to 30 days. THE TRANSFORMATION 2
THE CONSULTATION We start with a simple phrase Tell me about your hair. Clients will then share the issues they have with their hair which lead to KeraStraight or Intense Boost being the answer. PROBLEM SOLUTION Hard to manage / Unmanageable Easy to manage Takes too long Time saving Dry Repaired Damaged Healthy / Repaired Weak Strong Frizzy Smooth 3
THE SCIENCE WHY & HOW KERASTRAIGHT WORKS The hair s natural composition is mainly Keratin, a protein containing 16 different Amino Acids that repeat and interact. Amino acids are critical and serve as the building blocks for proteins. With KeraStraight, the amino acid Cysteine is added to the existing protein molecules to form a semipermanent patch across the hair s ier structure to create a new shape. KeraStraight Treatments do not contain any chemical ingredients that structurally alter or damage the hair. KERASTRAIGHT KEY INGREDIENTS CARBOCYSTEINE a low ph protein derived from the amino acid Cysteine. KERATIN the main protein in hair which provides strength and resilience, comprising of 16 amino acids. UREA a synthesised moisturiser and humectant that allows Keratin to be softened and transformed into a new shape. KS COMPLEX protects against environmental stresses and locks in the treatment with added shine and moisture whilst providing an immediate super-light feeling. HEALTH & SAFETY Health and Safety is at the forefront of all of our products and all KeraStraight s ingredients are rigorously sourced and tested for compliance and best performance. Our scientists are continuous in their efforts to ensure that not only do we have the best product but that we are pro-active in finding solutions for the future that provide unrivalled results for our business partners and clients, setting the standard for the industry. INTENSE BOOST KEY INGREDIENTS HYDROLYSED WHEAT PROTEIN creates soft, malleable strength. PALMEIRA TUCUMA Brazilian Palm Fibre which re-hydrates without weight. 4
THE KERASTRAIGHT ADVANTAGES 1 UNIVERSAL FOR ALL HAIR TYPES KeraStraight KS Ultimate is suitable for all hair types. Utilise the Application Matrix to personalise the service. 2 HEALTH & SAFETY CERTIFIED All KeraStraight treatments are certified free from aldehyde and formaldehyde both in formula and vapour prior to launch. 3 LOW PH PROTEIN KeraStraight uses Carbocysteine technology to repair, straighten and smooth to the very last tip. STRAIGHTENING & STRENGTHENING - HOW THE HAIR BEHAVES REPAIR & SOFTENING - HOW THE HAIR FEELS PERSONALISING THE SERVICE The KeraStraight service can be personalised to each client by adapting the following 3 areas The Timings The Passes of the Irons The Temperature of the Irons 5 The Application Matrix on the back page sets out a fantastic guide, but by adjusting the 3 areas above allows a hairstylist to design a personalised service for their clients.
5 VAPOUR CAPTURE TECHNOLOGY Enzymes capture the molecules in the vapour making the treatment pleasant for client and hairdresser. 6 RESULTS LAST UP TO 4 MONTHS Depends on hair type, lasting longest on more porous hair. Maintaining the treatment with KeraStraight Straight Maintain Shampoo and Conditioner will maximise the benefits and longevity of the treatment. 7 CAN BE COLOURED 2 DAYS EITHER SIDE General rules: When lightening the hair, colour 2 days before KeraStraight If adding colour wait 2 days after KeraStraight 8 REDUCES STYLING TIME & REMOVES FRIZZ KeraStraight s combination of proteins, emollients and advanced polymers create a positive charge providing easier control. 9 TIME SAVING The KeraStraight KS Ultimate Treatment process saves salon time and increases profit. 6
KS ULTIMATE & COLOUR COLOUR FADE With extremely porous hair, certain colour categories may occasionally reduce from the hair in terms of tone and intensity. If at any point during the ironing process you notice the colour fading, immediately reduce the irons temperature. Do not reduce below 180 C/355 F. íí THE COLOUR CAN BE REFRESHED ON THE SAME DAY WITH A TRUE (NON OXIDISING) SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR BATH, OR YOU CAN USE ANY COLOUR AFTER 2 DAYS ĨĨ WITH VERY LIGHT HIGHLIGHTS AND NATURAL WHITE HAIR, DO NOT USE THE STRAIGHTENING IRONS ABOVE 190 C/375 F THE NATURAL YELLOWISH PIGMENT FROM THE PROTEIN AND KERATIN MAY BE ABSORBED INTO THE HAIR 7
KS ULTIMATE STEP BY STEP PREPARATION 1 2 Gently cleanse the hair twice with KeraStraight Pre-Treatment Cleanser to open up the hair cuticles and soften the hair in readiness for the treatment. The second shampoo should be left on for up to 5 minutes for normal, very curly, virgin and resistant hair types and covered with a cap before rinsing out. Apply Pre-Treatment Spray Plus on to towel-dried hair. Spray through in sections (starting at the nape) and comb through. Concentrate on the most porous areas. APPLICATION 3 Starting at the nape, apply KS Ultimate in 2-3cm sections, close to the root, but not onto it and continue through to the ends. Ensure all hair is kept damp during the sink-in time by covering with a plastic cap. 8
TREATMENT SINK-IN TIME 30 minutes for very porous and fragile hair. 45 minutes for normal, very curly, resistant and virgin hair types. íí CHECK VERY POROUS HAIR THROUGHOUT THE SINK-IN TIME TO ENSURE THE HAIR REMAINS DAMP RINSING 4 Rinse hair for 10-20 seconds, do not shampoo (rinse white and very blonde hair for an extra minute). Gently squeeze the excess moisture from the hair and apply Moisture Lock, comb through and leave for 2 minutes. Rinse for 20-30 seconds. DRYING & IRONING 5 6 Blow dry hair 100%. Brushes, high heat and a nozzle may all be used at this stage. We recommend that the hair is blast dried before finishing with a brush to best prepare the hair for ironing. Iron hair slowly in 2-3cm sections using the KS EasyComb and KeraStraight Titanium Irons. For the first pass, iron the hair from roots to ends in one smooth motion to create the seal. Allow each section to cool for 2 seconds before continuing ironing (utilising the EasyComb) for the required amount of passes. See the Application Matrix for the recommended heat setting and number of passes. Reduce the temperature and the amount of passes on weak or fragile ends. íí KS ULTIMATE SHOULD BE IRONED SLOWLY TO MAXIMISE THE PENETRATION AND STABILITY OF THE TREATMENT. GREATER LEVELS OF SHINE WILL BE NOTICEABLE WITH SLOWER PASSES. 9
Iron Temperature Highly Porous, White or Grey 180-190 C 355-375 F Normal, Coloured, Dry or Damaged 200-210 C 390-410 F Resistant, Very Curly, Afro or Virgin 220-230 C 430-450 F Passes with Iron 4-6 6-7 7-10 íí CHOOSE THE CORRECT TEMPERATURE FOR THE IRONS BASED ON THE HAIR S CONDITION PRIOR TO THE START OF THE KS ULTIMATE TREATMENT íí ALWAYS FOLLOW THE IRONS THROUGH WITH THE EASYCOMB TO ENSURE MAXIMUM REPAIR TO THE ENDS AND A BEAUTIFUL SEALED FINISH For an ultimate final pass, iron the hair once at 180 C / 355 F in large sections. This will create a final seal to any weak ends, leaving the hair looking and feeling absolutely gorgeous. For the ultimate finish, apply 1 drop of KeraStraight Ultimate Oil to calm any flyaway hair and to create the ultimate KeraStraight finish. The result is beautifully conditioned, easy to manage, healthy and shiny hair. 1ST WASH / FINAL STEPS 7 Hair can be shampooed from 30 minutes. ĨĨ HAIR WILL NEED TO BE SHAMPOOED PRIOR TO NEXT COLOURING Always rinse for 3-5 minutes before first shampoo. Shampoo using Straight Maintain Shampoo and condition with either Straight Maintain Conditioner, Moisture Mask or Protein Mask which all contain KS Complex to maximise the benefits and longevity of the treatment. Style as required. 10
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KERASTRAIGHT INTENSE BOOST An exciting and revolutionary in-salon treatment service to delight all clients. Intense Boost utilises KeraStraight s ground breaking Protein Mask and Moisture Mask designed to smooth and renew hair from the inside out. Each has been formulated using the same world leading protein technology as the professional salon KeraStraight Treatment to ensure your client s hair is in the optimum condition. Intense Boost rebuilds what the hair lacks and locks in moisture and strength for up to 30 days. Intense Boost Masks are quick and easy to apply, activate with just a hairdryer and the benefits last up to 30 days. THE POPCORN EFFECT Wheat Proteins - build in Cortex as hair dries 100% MOISTURE BOOST Moisture Without Weight PROTEIN BOOST Flexible / Malleable Proteins QUICK FIX Fast Simple Application - 30 Mins Long Lasting - 30 Days Heat Activated In-Salon Service FOR ALL YOUR CLIENTS Introduction to KeraStraight Prolongs KeraStraight Perfect immediately after a colour service 12
INTENSE BOOST STEP BY STEP CLEANSE Cleanse twice with KeraStraight Pre-Treatment Cleanser (do not use Pre-Treatment Cleanser on recent KeraStraight, bright colours or immediately after colour) TREAT Apply the treatment mask in 2.5cm/1 inch sections and massage through each section before combing through. Comb through. DRY Dry 100% using a hood dryer or hand dryer (medium heat). RINSE Rinse thoroughly. THE RESULT Beautifully conditioned, healthy & shiny, luxurious hair. Lasts up to 30 days. NEW ULTIMATE BOOST UPGRADE Delivers even greater repair, strength & hydration You can now upgrade to an Ultimate Boost by ironing in the treatment once dry. These extra steps will take a bit longer so we recommend charging slightly more. EXTRA STEPS 13 Complete the drying stage by quickly blow drying sections with the help of a paddle brush, to guarantee all hair is 100% dry. Iron the hair in 2-3cm sections at 180 C/355 F. Create one smooth pass, let the section cool for 2 seconds, then iron twice more. Rinse thoroughly once all the hair has been ironed. Result - greater repair & strength and even happier clients.
KERASTRAIGHT PRODUCTS PRE-TREATMENT CLEANSER First Step of Treatment Opens the Cuticle and Softens the Hair PRE-TREATMENT SPRAY PLUS Regulates the Moisture / Protein Balance Makes Treatment Quicker, Easier and More Cost Effective MOISTURE LOCK Locks in Moisture Without Barrier Low ph of 2.5 KERASTRAIGHT TITANIUM IRON Titanium Plates for Smoother Ironing Variable Temperature up to 230 C / 450 F EASYCOMB Protects Fine Hair Creates Tension for Coarse Hair 14
KERASTRAIGHT MAINTENANCE STRAIGHT MAINTAIN SHAMPOO Sulphate and Sodium Chloride free (Sodium Chloride strips Keratin from the hair and shortens the life of the treatment) Contains KS Complex to maximise the longevity of the treatment Essential Homecare STRAIGHT MAINTAIN CONDITIONER Leaves hair soft and shiny Contains KS Complex to maximise the longevity of the treatment Low ph KERASTRAIGHT PROTEIN MASK Contains low weight proteins to form a protein net that rebuilds the hair s strength. KERASTRAIGHT MOISTURE MASK Contains Palmeira Tucuma, a Brazilian palm fibre and Carob Bean extract to act as a humectant to radically improve smoothness and moisture levels in the hair. Mask Application: Apply and leave on for 5 minutes, once a week, for ongoing strengthening, repairing and hydrating benefits. KERASTRAIGHT PROTECT Protects against... UVA/UVB (up to 8 times natural protection) Salt Water Chlorine 15
ULTIMATE OIL KeraStraight Ultimate Oil is an advanced blend of 9 specially chosen oils, which provides intense nourishment to transform and repair hair inside and out. Ultimate Oil s non-greasy, lightweight formula absorbs easily into the hair to protect and strengthen, leaving all hair types ultra-smooth, shiny and frizz free. RECOMMENDED USE Apply a small amount to damp hair prior to blow-drying. Ultimate Oil can also be used on dry hair to tame flyaway hair and control frizz. 9 SUPER OILS, 4 MAJOR BENEFITS REPLENISHING & NOURISHING Argan Oil & Coconut Oil LIGHTWEIGHT MOISTURE Jojoba Oil & Avocado Oil SEAL & SHINE Macadamia Oil & Olive Oil STRENGTH & FULLNESS Linseed Oil, Sunflower Oil & Wheat Germ Oil 16
KS STYLE KS CARE & PROTECT COMPLEX The foundation of the KS Style range - KS Care & Protect Complex is an exclusive, heat activated trilogy of wheat based proteins and advanced polymers that penetrate the cortex to fortify and rebuild as well as re-enforcing the cuticle to provide repair and enhanced shine. The Popcorn Effect - Wheat Proteins - build in Cortex as hair dries 100% BENEFITS Heat activated conditioning & thermal protection Increased hair strength Seals & repairs cuticle Enhanced shine & hydration MOISTURE MIST 250ml / 8.5oz Leave-in Conditioning & Styling Spray Lightweight Moisture Excellent Detangling Spray & Cutting Lotion Spray close for concentration and from 6 inches for a lighter feel. Apply to towel dried hair and comb through. Style as required. 17
RESCUE CRÈME 120ml / 4oz ROOT LIFT SPRAY GEL Repairs Hair Damage 250ml / 8.5oz Seals Split & Broken Ends Versatile Lift & Support For Long Lasting Volume Locks In & Increases Moisture Retention Zero Flaking & Hold Without Stiffness Leaves Hair Looking & Feeling Dramatically Repaired Work through a small amount to pre shampooed and towel dried hair, concentrating on ends. Style as required. Spray close for concentration and from 6 inches for a lighter feel. Apply to towel dried hair and comb through. Style as required. Spray onto dry hair and restyle to build strength, body and hold. HEAT PROTECTION SPRAY 250ml / 8.5oz GLOSSING TEXTURE CRÈME 100ml / 3.5oz Heat Activated, Thermal Protection Barrier Reduces Frizz & Add Gives Brilliant Shine Protects Hair From The Harmful Effects Of Styling Tools Locks In Moisture Can be used prior to blow dry by spraying on towel dried hair. Lightly spray on dry hair before using flat iron or any other heated styling tool. Builds Texture & Strength Apply post blow dry to calm frizzy or fly-away hair. Can be used any time for extra softness, shine and control. Add heat once applied to dry hair to build strength & texture. Refresh a style with light spray and re-dry. 18
FAQS What makes KeraStraight the first choice over alternative treatments? Our products are designed by hairdressers who understand the needs of both salons and the clients. It also has the endorsement of some of the greatest award wiing hairdressers who value the KeraStraight treatment range as not only providing the ultimate results but also in the fact that KeraStraight is completely and certifiably safe for the user and consumer. Is KeraStraight a permanent hair straightener? No, KeraStraight is based on the hairs natural proteins and will gradually fade from the hair. Can KeraStraight be applied on pre-treated or coloured hair? Yes, KeraStraight can be applied to all hair types including highlighted, bleached, coloured and also on hair that has had no history of chemical services (virgin hair). When can I colour my hair if I want to have a KeraStraight? Hair can be coloured either 2 days before the service or alternatively 2 days after. It is usually best to highlight prior and full head colour after the treatment. Can KeraStraight be applied on hair that has been permed, chemically straightened or relaxed? YES, our treatments can be used on any hair type that has had previous chemical services. Leave 30 days after a KeraStraight Treatment before applying a perm or chemical straightening service. Will KeraStraight work on very curly and Afro- Caribbean hair? YES, KeraStraight is extremely effective on Afro- Caribbean hair. How long does KeraStraight keep the hair straightened, smoothed and repaired? The benefits will last in the hair for a period of up to 4 months depending on the hair type. On hair that has had previous chemical services the results are more dramatic and last longer. With hair types that are natural with no chemical service history, the results are better and last longer after subsequent treatments. How long does the service process take? 2.5-3 hours, but there is a 30-45 minute sink-in time, so another client can be looked after in that time. When can I shampoo my hair after a KeraStraight treatment? Once the service is complete you can shampoo and treat your hair as normal after just 30 minutes, although most clients will choose to shampoo themselves at home. If I am pregnant or breast-feeding can I safely have a KeraStraight Treatment? Yes, KeraStraight treatments are completely safe to use during pregnancy and while breast-feeding. When am I able to have a KeraStraight Treatment again after the first application? KeraStraight should last between 2 and 4 months, but can be re-applied after 30 days. What after care is recommended to ensure best possible results are maintained? KeraStraight recommends using only the KeraStraight Straight Maintain Shampoo and Conditioner. These products are sodium chloride and sulphate free and have been developed to maximise the longevity of the KeraStraight Treatment. They also contain our special KS Complex to support and maintain your treatment and protect against daily environmental stresses. How long can a KeraStraight treatment bottle be kept for once opened? Once opened you must use within one month, providing the lid is sealed back tightly. 19
TROUBLESHOOTING ENDS DRY / FRIZZY Reason Solution Prevention/Solution Hair was too dry to start Intense Boost to balance Do not over-dry, just gently removing excess water Not enough treatment applied Intense Boost to balance Always check & re-dampen any dry areas with Pre-Treatment Spray Plus or KS Ultimate Treatment allowed to dry out Intense Boost to balance Always check & re-dampen any dry areas with Pre-Treatment Spray Plus or KS Ultimate. Cover with plastic cap Wrong iron temperature Intense Boost to balance Use digitally controlled KeraStraight Titanium Iron Ends not protected once heated Intense Boost to balance Use EasyComb to protect ends Ends not ironed smoothly Intense Boost to balance Always do one perfect 1st pass to seal the treatment into the hair Ends over ironed Intense Boost to balance Iron more fragile areas less and/or lower the heat HAIR IS NOT STRAIGHTENED / SMOOTHED Reason Solution Prevention Not enough treatment applied Intense Boost or re-treat after 30 days Always check & re-dampen any dry areas with Pre-Treatment Spray Plus or KS Ultimate Under ironed Intense Boost or re-treat after 30 days Refer to Application Matrix Irons used at the wrong temperature Intense Boost or re-treat after 30 days Refer to Application Matrix Lack of tension Intense Boost or re-treat after 30 days Use EasyComb Ironed too quickly Intense Boost or re-treat after 30 days Always iron slowly YELLOWING OF WHITE OR BLONDE HAIR Reason Solution Prevention Wrong temperature used COLOUR FADED Colour correction, starting with toning shampoo toner or powder bleach and water Iron at 180-190 C / 355-375 F Reason Solution Prevention Wrong temperature used Recolour after 2 days Reduce temperature of iron Pre-Treatment Cleanser left on colour vulnerable hair Recolour after 2 days DO NOT leave Pre-Treatment Cleanser on colour vulnerable hair 20
BUILD BIG BUSINESS With KeraStraight & Intense Boost being suitable for over 80% of your clients and with some salons reporting KeraStraight & Intense Boost bring in over 20% of their technical services, we have put together your essential guide to building big business with our treatments. LET PEOPLE KNOW Displays Website Social media Leaflets - reception & work stations Retail shelves Client launch Create opportunities from every consultation CONSULTATIONS n n Tell me about your hair How often do you have good hair days? Are you looking to grow your hair? Let your clients know that they will need to take the homecare with them at this stage. TEAM INVOLVEMENT Team launch Are your team wearing KeraStraight Target and incentivise Share success stories 21
KS ULTIMATE - EASY, BUT ESSENTIAL STEPS Keep the hair damp with KS Ultimate during the sink-in time Create the seal with a perfect 1st pass and allow to cool for 2 seconds Iron slowly in 2-3cm sections Always follow through with the EasyComb to ensure the ends are sealed FOLLOWING UP Offer the choice of 250ml/8oz & 500ml/16oz sizes of Straight Maintain Shampoo & Conditioner Pre-book their next appointment Offer an Intense Boost treatment to boost their KeraStraight after 2-3 months Don t forget Intense Boost and KS Style are for all clients and make a great introduction to KeraStraight. 22
APPLICATION MATRIX Highly Porous Normal Resistant White Coloured Very Curly Grey Dry or Damaged Afro or Virgin Pre-Treatment Cleanser Leave On (minutes) 0 5 5 Treatment Sink In (minutes) 30 45 45 Iron Temperature 180-190 C 200-210 C 220-230 C Reduce temperature on weak ends 355-375 F 390-410 F 430-450 F Passes with Iron 2-3cm wide sections 4-6 6-7 7-10 Reduce passes on weak ends TR012 Technical Manual KS Ultimate