Technique Guide. Kendall (Featuring Interior Marbling Color Technique)

Technique Guide Kendall (Featuring Interior Marbling Color Technique) 1

Cut Before TIP: When cutting, make the density the same all around. Section the front higher and the back lower so that the density matches. This is how you establish your guideline/baseline. To establish your guideline/ baseline, stand client up for first section to be at eye level. Sectioning. In the fringe: Take a triangle parting approximately two inches back from corner of eye to corner of eye. Take a horizontal parting from the back of the fringe section to the back of the crown. Split the top section in half with a vertical center part. Section across the back from ear to ear (just above the occipital). This leaves a large section mid-back above the occipital and behind the crown. NOTE: The drop section behind the ear is very important. The goal is to create an even amount of hair around the perimeter, compensating for the thin area over and behind the ear. The result is that you can cut around the entire perimeter with an even amount of hair. 4. Cross-check the front side section. Holding fingers horizontally, measure the angle as well as the length. 5. Move to the back of the head. Take your guide from the back of the front side section (just behind the ear) and continue cutting your perimeter using medium tension, pulling hair straight down and respecting where the hair lives. 6. To cross-check, pull the hair down in your fingers instead of pinching. This will allow you to see your work more clearly and cross-check better. 1. Start the cut with the model standing up. Perimeter: Begin in the front side area. Comb entire front side section down. Using medium tension, cut guideline to just below the collarbone. Remember to comb the hair where it lives and not overdirect to cut baseline. (This was previously cut with scissors.) 2. Move to the opposite side, then take a front piece to establish your guide and cut it. Take a piece from the front of the opposite side and pinch the two front pieces together (holding them out forward) and cut the guide for the opposite side. 3. Using your guide and medium tension, cut this side section. TIP: Notice the turn of the head to cut the square line. 7. Fringe: Now use the razor. From the front triangle section, take a horizontal front parting. The front fringe is going to be an arc to the cheekbone. Comb the section with little elevation for softness. Cut the first ½-inch section slightly longer and observe how the hair lies. 8. Razor from the fringe section into the facial framing, working to the corner of the bob line. Use the etching method for short edges. NOTE: The deeper the stroke, the deeper the valley and peaks within the line will be. Take into consideration hair density and how soft you would like the look to be. 9. Cross-check and measure the line for balance and evenness. 2 3

Cut 10. Back area: Switch back to scissors. Comb the remaining sections to the bob line, cutting square to the weight line. 11. Continue working upward until you reach the bottom of the crown area. 12. Pull down the top two sections and start the layering. Before you cut, visually evaluate the weight, movement, and density of the remaining hair to determine the weight or lightness of the layers. Take a vertical side section (about ¼-inch [0.635 cm]), overdirect up, and cut short to long; creating soft, concave layers. 16. Working into the back, take vertical sections and overdirect to the first section. Continue to take vertical sections and overdirect. 17. Take a vertical back section and connect from crown to the bob outline. Overdirect the left and right into the stationary center guideline (the center back is the shortest length, working out to longer lengths behind the ear). Remember: the more you overdirect away from the ears, the longer it will be. Crosscheck the sections for length and balance. TIP: Body position should be to the side. Keep arms parallel to the floor when cross-checking. Crosscheck in the opposite direction from which you cut. Since hair doesn t grow just above the ear, compensate for it and overdirect that area to maintain length and texture. 13. The section is overdirected to the opposite side. The shortest layer should live right below the jaw. Play with the hair and texture to see the result, and make sure the texture is creating the movement you want. Take the next section and repeat. Make sure to have the scissors pointed up toward the ceiling. 14. Move to the opposite side. Take a tiny section from the first side as a guide. Take a vertical section and overdirect past the middle to the opposite side. Cut from the top down with the scissors pointing down. If you are left-handed, reverse these steps. 15. Cross-check the top into the side layers. The angle will appear concave: deeper in the middle and longer on the ends. 18. Blend any remaining length from the layers using the etching razor method. Softly connect into the facial framing; be mindful not to overdirect too much or you will lose the weight. 19. Lightly glide down the facial framing creating soft valleys and peaks. Make sure to keep the razor on top of the section and not underneath. 20. Blow-dry, cross-check, then refine. 4 5

Color Interior Marbling Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Vero K-PAK Ultra High Lift Natural Double 40 Volume (12%) Veroxide Developer (Gold foil) LumiShine Permanent Crème Color: XLN 40 Volume (12%) Developer Base Color Vero K-PAK Chrome Demi-Permanent Crème Color: 1 1 4 oz (37 ml) G6 ¾ oz (22 ml) RC6 Vero K-PAK Chrome Activator 4 oz (120 ml) *NOTE: In markets that teach variable mixing, you may mix the base formula 1:1 for increased opacity. LumiShine Permanent Crème Color: 1¼ oz (37 ml) 6NG ¾ oz (22 ml) 6NRG 5 Volume (1.5%) Developer 2 oz (60 ml) Vero K-PAK Color Permanent Crème Color: 8RG 30 Volume (9%) Veroxide Developer (Copper foil) LumiShine Permanent Crème Color: 8NRG 30 Volume (9%) Developer Glaze Blonde Life Lightening Powder 10 Volume (3%) LumiShine Developer (Silver foil) Crème Lightener 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide Developer LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color: 9NWB 5 Volume (1.5%) LumiShine Developer Vero K-PAK Chrome Demi-Permanent Crème Color: ½ oz (15 ml) G9 ½ oz (15 ml) B9 Vero K-PAK Chrome Activator 4 oz (120 ml) 1. Working in the front right triangle section, take a vertical slice parting, overdirect to the opposite side and apply Formula 1 from mid-shaft down making sure to blur the line in the mid-shaft. TIP: Stand on the opposite side of the triangle and pull sections towards you for easy application. 2. Working into the triangle (goal is to land around cheekbone area), take a diagonal-vertical parting and apply Formula 3 from mid-shaft to ends. On the next diagonal-vertical parting, use Formula 2; then use Formula 1. 3. Continue taking vertical slices; overdirect them and apply color mid-shaft to ends. Apply formulas in this order: Formula 3, Formula 2 and Formula 1, Formula 3, Formula 2, and Formula 3. Sectioning. Two triangles on each side of the top corners of the head. Take a horizontal parting to connect each triangle. Leave out fringe and section top center section. Horizontally, across the back, take out a zigzag parting that resembles two exaggerated zigzags connecting the triangles. Section a vertical center parting at the crown, leaving two back crown rectangular triangle sections. 4. Repeat exactly the same on the opposite side. Foils on this side: Formulas 1, 3, 2, 1, 3, 2, 1, 3, 2, and 3. Completed sides 5. FRINGE: Take out a weaved section from the top and clip away (veil). Take a horizontal weave section, overdirect it back, and apply Formula 1 in a strong line from mid-shaft to ends. Take another horizontal weave section and apply Formula 2 from midshaft to ends, creating a strong line. 6 7

Color 6. Back: From the right side of the zigzag, take a diagonal slice following the parting and apply Formula 1 from mid-shaft to ends. Take a slice and leave it out. Take another diagonal slice and apply Formula 2 from mid-shaft to ends, creating a soft, feathered line at the mid-shaft. Each of these diagonal slices are angled toward the front. Take a diagonal slice and leave it out. Take a second diagonal slice and apply Formula 3 from mid-shaft to ends. 7. Continuting in the back, work in the next zigzag that angles toward the nape. Take a diagonal slice and apply Formula 1 to the bottom quarter of the section. Take a slice and leave it out. Take a third slice and apply Formula 2 from mid-shaft to ends. Take a slice and leave it out. Take another diagonal slice and apply Formula 3 from mid-shaft to ends. 8. Move to next zigzag and repeat. Move to next far left zigzag and repeat as you did in the first rightside zigzag. Completed foiling 9. Apply Base Color. Make sure to melt the base formula into each foil, as all foils were melted from mid-shaft and down. 10. Process at room temperature for 35 minutes. Rinse well and shampoo with K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo. Apply Glaze Formula to all hair, process 15 minutes, then rinse well. Shampoo, then condition with K-PAK Color Therapy Luster Lock; leave it on 2-5 minutes, then rinse. 8 9

Style Style 1: Street Chic Conform or Non-Conform 2 5 8 1. Apply two drops of K-PAK Protect and Shine Serum to your hands and emulsify it. Glide your hands through damp strands to apply the product evenly throughout the head. Using a large Denman brush, first dry the fringe using a wrap technique. Finish the fringe off by using the blow-dryer pointed down and rolling the Denman brush to create a bevel in the lower part of the fringe. 2. Using a large round brush, dry the rest of the head in large 2- to 3-inch (5.08 cm - 7.62 cm) sections. Overdirect the hair straight out from where the hair lives; this will create natural lift and add volume to the shape. Use the large round brush in a concave motion to smooth the hair and bevel the ends. 3. After the hair has been fully dried, smooth the mid-lengths and ends. Working in the front sides first, take diagonal subsections that are directed toward the front of the face. Apply Joico Iron Clad to the sections to protect hair. Following a fine-tooth comb, smooth the hair using a flat iron from mid-lengths to ends. Slightly bevel the ends in. TIP: A properly done, smooth blow-dry will take care of most of the work. Flat-ironing should just be to add additional polish to the hair. Commercial Fashion/ Lifestyle 5 Trendy A Woman's Sensuality Trendy 9 Artsy Edgy 4 5 11 Feminist Cute Glamorous 4. Continue working in diagonal subsections in the front sides. 5. Working into the back sections, continue to take diagonal partings and smooth the mid-lengths and ends. Make sure to spray each section with Iron Clad. 6. After hair has been flat ironed, it s time to shake things up. Flip the head down and generously apply Body Shake throughout the hair using your hands to tousle the hair. TIP: When finishing the hairstyle, use your hands (instead of a brush)to perfect the end results and maintain just-created texture. Products Used Joico Iron Clad Thermal Protectant Spray Joico Body Shake Texturizing Finisher K-PAK Protect and Shine Serum Tools Used Blow-dryer Round brush Large Denman brush Heat-resistant, fine-tooth comb Flat iron 10 11

Style Style 2: Ocean Romance Conform or Non-Conform 2 5 8 Commercial Trendy Edgy 1. Cocktail Power Whip and K-PAK Protect and Shine Serum, then apply throughout damp strands. Gently comb through for even distribution. Then, using a large Denman brush, dry the fringe first. Use a wrap technique to dry the fringe. Finish the fringe off by using the blow-dryer pointed down and rolling the Denman brush to create a bevel in the lower part of the fringe. 2. Starting in the back, using a large round brush, overdirect the hair straight out to create lift and dry the hair. Start your drying at the base before drying the rest of the section. TIP: Don t rough-dry the hair first, as this can cause frizz and add time. Working section by section will ensure a smooth style that is locked in and long-lasting. 3. After hair has been fully blown dry with a round brush, apply Hair Shake throughout. Fashion/ Lifestyle 3 Preppy A Woman's Sensuality 5 Trendy 9 10 11 Feminine Sensual Glamorous 4. Next, working in diagonal vertical subsections from bottom to top, wrap 1-inch (2.54 cm) sections around a medium curling rod. 5. Continue taking 1-inch (2.54 cm) subsections and alternating the direction of the curl to create a natural texture. TIP: Leave ends out for a more undone, natural look. 6. Once hair has been fully curled, use a wide-tooth comb to rake through and break up the curls. Next, take 2- to 3-inch (5.08 cm - 7.62 cm) horizontal sections and create lift. Using a wide-tooth comb, lightly tease from mid-shaft to base to create a cushion. You re not looking to create a massive amount of tease, just a light lift for horizontal volume. Finish off style with FlipTurn to set and hold the style. Products Used Joico Power Whip Whipped Foam Joico Hair Shake Liquid-to-Powder Texturizing Finisher K-PAK Protect and Shine Serum Joico Flip Turn Volumizing Finishing Spray Tools Used Blow-dryer Round brush Large Denman brush Curling rod Duckbill clips 12 13

Style Style 3: Glam Night Out Conform or Non-Conform 2 Commercial 3 Classic 1. Add a generous amount of Power Whip throughout damp strands. Gently comb hair to evenly distribute product. Next, using a large round brush, completely dry hair (focusing all the hair directed out from where it lives) to create volume. TIP: To create pliability and workable texture for the braids, spray on Hair Shake first; this will give hold to the braids as they are formed. 2. Section the hair into three large sections: one on each side, and a large triangle that starts from a point just under the crown to the nape of the neck. Braid each side section into a French three-strand braid, then secure with a hair band. TIP: The braid for this look sits low, starting at the temple and working back. Body position is key: stand behind the braid as you work. 3. After both sides are braided, take the middle section and form a low, tight-to-the-nape ponytail. Spray each braid with more Hair Shake and start to pull on each braid to create a voluminous, more texturized braid. Pull some strands of hair out by the temple area for a more romantic look. Fashion/ Lifestyle 3 Preppy A Woman's Sensuality 5 Trendy 7 Romantic 9 Feminine 4. Cross each braid over to the middle ponytail and pin in place. Work on braid over, pin in place, then work the other over top of that and pin in place. TIP: Don t open the bobby pin first to pin. Stick the pin in vertically first, then push the pin down and horizontally and slide it into the braid. This will lock the style. 5. Take the ponytail and start to tease and piece the ends of the pony. Work the pony into a rolled chignon, pinning the strands to the base of the crossed braids. Spray with FlipTurn to secure your style. TIP: Don t do this in one large clump. Work the chignon subsection by subsection to create this romantic up-style. 6. Next, pull out the sides of the braids for more definition. Use Hair Shake on the fringe to add texture and separation. Products Used Joico Power Whip Whipped Foam Joico Hair Shake Liquid-to-Powder Texturizing Finisher Joico Flip Turn Volumizing Finishing Spray Tools Used Blow-dryer Round brush Hair bands Bobby pins 14 15

Download the JoiColor System App or visit JOICO.COM to learn exclusive techniques. 16 Joico Laboratories, Los Angeles, CA 90042-0308 Printed in U.S.A. HAIR Vivienne Mackinder COLOR Phil Ring PHOTO Hama Sanders J68578