CRYSTAL LIGHT TECHNIQUE featuring CRYSTALLIZE COLLECTION JOICO COLLECTION GUIDE 2015
NEW SHADES! RUBY RED AMETHYST PURPLE SAPPHIRE BLUE Discover a new spectrum of brilliant color with Vero K-PAK Color Intensity, now available in 15 long-lasting, semi-permanent shades of concentrated, vibrant pigment. Use shades direct from the tube, or mix to your colorist s heart content the creative possibilities are endless! BENEFITS & TECHNOLOGY Extremely concentrated pigments allow for exceptional vibrancy that lasts through 15 shampoos Reconstructs and protects as you color with K-PAK s exclusive Quadramine Complex, leaving hair in healthy, shiny condition Kukui Nut Oil conditions and boosts shine 15 intermixable semi-permanent shades: Ruby Red, Amethyst Purple, Sapphire Blue, Orchid, Light Purple, Titanium, Magenta, Cobalt Blue, Peacock Green, Pink, Indigo, Red, Yellow, Orange and Clear Mixer APPLICATION TIPS Horizontal Slices = Maximum color visibility on the surface Vertical Slices = Minimal bursts of color Diagonal Slices = Visible-yet-diffused color effect Mix-and-match foil placement = Very dramatic results Clear Mixer allows you to control the intensity of each shade RECOMMENDED LEVELS OF LIGHTENING Follow these guidelines for maximum color vibrancy. RECOMMENDED PRELIGHTENING GUIDE COLOR INTENSITY SHADE Pink, Magenta, Orchid, Light Purple, Indigo, Amethyst Purple Peacock Green, Cobalt Blue, Sapphire Blue Ruby Red, Red, Orange, Yellow Titanium PRELIGHTENED HAIR LEVEL Level 8-9 and lighter Level 7 and lighter Level 7 and lighter Level 9 and lighter
CRYSTAL LIGHT TECHNIQUE CUT STEP X STEP Step 1: Section hair into four areas (as shown). Pay particular attention to the crown area and hairline, and adjust the sectioning pattern to work with the natural growth patterns as needed. Step 2: Start at the nape/hairline behind the ear and cut hair to the desired length. Graduation is the primary technique used here, with the hair shorter at the nape gradually working toward a longer length approximately around the occipital bone. Adjust the degree of weight/graduation to suit the individual hair density, hair texture, growth pattern and overall appearance. Step 3: Continue to elevate each parting slightly higher than the previous. Overdirecting, applying proper tension and lifting are key to ensuring the graduation is smooth and consistent. Note the outline (perimeter) is soft and natural; the hairline will be reviewed and refined when the hair is dry. Always continue to cross check. Step 4: Repeat steps 2 and 3 on the opposite side. Step 5: View of the completed back area; note the soft perimeter/ hairline. The nape will be refined when the hair is dry. Always work with the natural growth pattern and direction.
Step 6: Proceed to the side and top areas. Take diagonal partings that pivot from the crown area. Lift, overdirect and apply even tension, lifting each parting slightly higher than the previous. Note that elevation creates a soft perimeter/outline. The front side area is the longest length (falling approximately around the jawline). Always adjust the lengths and degree of graduation to suit the individual face shape, hair texture, hair density, growth pattern and client personality. Repeat on the opposite side. Blow-dry hair smooth with a Denman brush using the wrapping technique. This technique can be exaggerated and developed further as desired. For example, create extra contrast by cutting the shorter areas shorter and leaving the longer lengths longer. Step 7: Refine the nape/ hairline area using a pointing and chipping method. Point-cutting will soften the edges of the hair and allow it to flow with the natural growth pattern. Step 8: Take a diagonal parting that extends from the crown to the temple area. Connect the crown by cutting toward the front hairline. Point-cut into the hair to release weight and create softness. The length through the top area can vary depending on the overall desired end result. Step 9: Continue to pivot and overdirect the partings to the first guide, point-cutting as before. Overdirection creates length and weight; adjust the degree of overdirection to suit the individual hair texture, hair density, face shape and overall look. For example, thick hair may not require the same degree of overdirection as fine hair. Step 10: Repeat process on the opposite side. Return to the first guide (top area), and pivot and overdirect all the partings to the first guide. Continue to point-cut to create softness. Note: This side will be slightly heavier and asymmetrical. Step 11: Take a horizontal parting, elevate it and point-cut to soften the heavy fringe from a previous haircut; the fringe should be soft and light. Step 12: Use the hands to secure the fringe against the skin, then point-cut, chip and refine. Crosscheck the entire hair cut internally; remove any corners by point-cutting and chipping. Step 13: Haircut is now ready for color placement. Further refine hair after the color process to ensure the haircut and color flow seamlessly.
CRYSTAL LIGHT TECHNIQUE COLOR STEP X STEP COLOR INTENSITY: Sapphire Blue, Amethyst Purple and Ruby Red TECHNIQUE: color blocking, split strand and feathering techniques Opposites in placement and tones. PRELIGHTENING FORMULA: Equal parts VeroLight and 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide BEFORE Model has colored (level 6) light brown hair. COLOR FORMULAS: #1 (Red Foil): Color Intensity Ruby Red #2 (Purple Foil): Color Intensity Amethyst Purple #3 (Blue Foil): Color Intensity Sapphire Blue #4 (Base Color): Vero K-PAK Permanent Crème Color 5B with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide Step 1: Take a triangle section from each side of the center parting and clip hair away. Step 2: Working off the triangle section (into the fringe area), take a diagonal slice parting and apply Prelightening Formula from the edge of the foil (at the scalp) and feather out toward the ends. Step 3: Take a second diagonal/horizontal staggered slice parting toward the crown with Prelightening Formula. Apply feathering technique in the same manner. Step 4: Continue to take staggered slice partings working into the fringe (then back toward the crown) for a total of 11 foils with Prelightening Formula. Step 5: On the opposite side, resection the triangle so that it is asymmetrical (heavier than the first side), then take a diagonal slice parting with Prelightening Formula using the feathering technique toward the ends. Step 6: Take single slice partings with Prelightening Formula (as opposed to staggering, which was done on the opposite side) for a total of six foils.
Step 7: Proceed to the back section. Working off the triangle section, take three horizontal/diagonal back-to-back slice partings. Apply Prelightening Formula with the feathering technique Step 8: Lift hair to a level 9 (yellow), rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, rinse. Apply K-PAK Deep-Penetrating Reconstructor for 5 minutes, rinse and dry the hair. Ready for Phase 2. Step 9: Resection out the triangle and clip away on the right side, then take a diagonal slice parting working into the fringe and apply Formula 1. Take a staggered diagonal slice parting toward the crown area with Formula 1. Take a third diagonal slice parting (working into the fringe area) with Formula 1. Step 10: Take a diagonal slice parting at the crown and apply Formula 1 halfway down the slice and Formula 2 to the rest. Take a staggered slice parting toward the fringe area apply Formula 2 halfway down and Formula 3 to the rest of the slice. Step 11: Take a slice parting toward the fringe area and apply Formula 3 halfway down the slice and Formula 2 to the rest. Take a staggered slice parting toward the crown and apply Formula 3 halfway down the slice and Formula 2 to the rest. Leave out a small triangle in the fringe area, then take five back-to back slice partings with Formula 3. Step 12: Proceed to the left side. Take a diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 1 halfway down and Formula 2 to the rest. Take a slice parting and apply Formula 2 halfway down and Formula 1 to the rest. Take two slices and apply Formula 2. Take a slice parting and apply Formula 2 halfway down and Formula 3 to the rest. Take a slice parting apply Formula 3 halfway down and Formula 2 to the rest. Take one last slice parting and apply Formula 3. Step 13: Proceed to the back section. Take three back-to-back horizontal/diagonal slice partings and apply one slice Formula 1, one slice Formula 2 and one slice Formula 3 to each slice parting. Step 14: Completed foiling technique. Apply Base Color to regrowth area, process for 25 minutes, rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, rinse. Apply K-PAK Intense Hydrator for 5 minutes, rinse. Style hair with the appropriate Joico styling products.
Joico Laboratories, Pointe-Claire QC, H9R 5N3 1-800-267-4676 HAIR: Joico Artistic Team COLOR: Sue Pemberton PHOTO: Hama Sanders J1155