Basic Science Trainer requirements to teach this lesson For this session you will need the following: Handout.4.1a Handout.4.1b Handout.4.1c (2 pages) Activity.4.1d Handout.4.2 Handout.4.3 (2 pages) Activity.4.3 (2 pages) Handout.4.4 (3 pages) Slide.4.4 Handout.4.5 A selection of manufacturer shade charts Learner Check for Session 4 Trainer notes The session will cover: 4.1 The principles of colour selection 4.2 How the natural pigment within the hair affects the choice of colour and colouring products and the possible need to prelighten 4.3 The effects of different colouring and lightening products on the hair structure 4.4 The effects of the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide and how to dilute it to get different strengths 4.5 How porosity levels can affect the choice and application of products and the results of the colouring process 4.6 How and why contra-indications and factors affect choice of colour product and method of application (including the effects of temperature on the application and development of colouring and lightening products) 4.7 The importance of restoring the ph balance of the hair following colouring and lightening treatments Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 1 - Unit - Session 4.
4.8 The importance of not disturbing areas of colour that are still processing when removing colour from developed areas 4.9 Why it is important to emulsify colour prior to removal and leave the hair free of colouring and lightening products Page 2 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
4.1 The principles of colour selection Ref: Handout.4.1a Slide.4.1 Ask the learners if they can name all the colours of the rainbow. The answers should be: Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Violet/purple. Explain to learners that colour is a reflection of light on a surface. White light is a mixture of all the colours of the rainbow. Therefore, the colour of a solid object is dependent upon the absorption of some colours and the reflection of others. For example, a yellow flower is yellow because all the other colours in the spectrum (red, orange, green, blue and violet/purple) have been absorbed and only the yellow colour is reflected. Remind learners that melanin is the natural colour pigment in hair. The hair colour we actually see in hair is dependent upon which pigment is not absorbed, but reflected. To illustrate this, explain that if all other colours except red are absorbed, it is red that is reflected from the surface of the hair, so the hair looks red. Tell learners that the surface of the hair is important. A smooth surface reflects light more easily. This means smooth cuticle scales will make the hair and its colour shine and appear more vibrant than dry brittle hair which may be the same colour. Remind the learners of the acronym Richard Of York Gave Battle in Vain to help then to remember the sequence of the colour star. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 3 - Unit - Session 4.
Ref: Handout.4.1b The Colour Star Explain to learners that the colour star (or circle) is made up of: Three primary colour Three secondary colours. Explain that the three primary colours relating to pigment and hair colour are red, yellow and blue. These colours cannot be made from any other colour hence the word primary or first. The secondary colours, which are made by mixing two primary colours together are orange, green and violet/ purple. Explain that the colour star is very important when choosing colour in the salon. It forms the basis of the colour chart. Ref: Handout.4.1c The Colour Chart (International Colour Chart) Suggestion Have a selection of colour charts to illustrate the use of the ICC system. Explain to learners what the eye transmits to the brain accounts for variations in a person s individual idea or perception of a colour. Some people will interpret the same colour differently to others. A client may ask for a new colour and describe it to the hairdresser as golden blonde. The hairdresser may interpret the colour differently to the client. This would result in a disappointed client and an unsatisfactory result. Page 4 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Therefore, go on to explain that to overcome this problem manufacturers follow a systematic method of defining colours on a colour chart. The system is known as the International Colour Chart (ICC). The colours on the chart are given numbers. The numbers represent: How light or how dark the colour is this is known as depth and The overall colour that is seen this is known as tone Suggestion Show the learners on the colour chart the range of depth going from the top to the bottom of the colour chart. Show the learners the variety of tones on the colour chart going across the colour chart. Point out the warm tones and the cool tones. Explain that: Depth can be described as light brown or dark blonde Tone can be described as warm colours copper, red, gold or cool colours ash or matt. Therefore, the colour chart will have a numbering system that represents the depth and tone of each colour. Explain to learners and illustrate with the colour chart that the numbers used to describe the depth of colour normally range from 1 10. One being the darkest colour eg, black and 10 being the lightest colour eg, lightest blonde. Then go on to explain that the numbers (or letters) used to describe the tones of colour normally follow the depth number. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 5 - Unit - Session 4.
It is important to point out to the learners that while there are some similarities in the ICC numbering system from one manufacturer to another, there are also some differences. Explain that some of the differences can be subtle, eg, the depth and the tone colour may be separated by: a point. (8.3) a slash / (8/3) a dash - (8-3) or not separated at all 83 or the depth may be a number and the tone may be a letter eg, 8G for gold on a depth of 8. Point out that all the above examples actually represent the same colour ie, light golden blonde. Explain that for most manufacturers, the 8 represents light blonde and the 3 (or G) represents gold. Suggestion Have a variety of colour charts from different manufacturers so this point can be illustrated. Ref: Activity.4.1d Using the Colour Chart Ask the learners to use a colour chart to complete the activity. If time allows, ask the learners to swap partners to enable them to have more practice with the colour chart. 4.2 How the natural pigment within the hair affects the choice of colour and colouring products and the possible need to prelighten Ref: Handout.4.2 Page 6 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Explain how the client s natural base shade will determine the outcome of the colour. Explain the natural hair colour pigments melanin. The pigments responsible for: black and brown hair - eumelanin red and yellow hair pheomelanin. Emphasise how the final colour depends on the proportions of eumelanin and pheomelanin in the hair. Explain that high lift tint will only lift the natural hair colour up to four shades and when the hair is lightened using high lift tint the smaller colour pigments (eumelanin) are removed but the larger pigments (pheomelanin) are more difficult to remove and they can become more noticeable. For example, hair with a natural dark base that has a red or warm tone when lightened using a high lift tint can sometimes look orange or yellow. Remind learners of their earlier learning in.4.1 - when the hair is lightened using bleach it enters the cortex and the oxygen released from the hydrogen peroxide reacts with the natural colour pigments (oxidise) making the colour pigments colourless (oxymelanin). Ref: Slide.6.4.2 Use the slide to explain the bleaching stages. Explain that because high lift tint can only lift the hair up to four shades, a client with a base of 6 or above would need to have their hair pre-lightened if they wanted a light blonde as the final result. The hair would be pre-lightened using bleach and then the hairdresser would apply another colour such as a tint/toner to achieve required result. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 7 - Unit - Session 4.
Reiterate how the final colour depends on the proportions of melanin and pheomelanin in the hair. 4.3 The effects of different colouring and lightening products on the hair structure Ref: Handout.4.3 Use the handout to illustrate the effects of hair colour and lightening products on the hair structure. 4.4 The effects of the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide and how to dilute it to get different strengths Ref: Handout.4.4 Explain to learners that Hydrogen Peroxide is mixed (in various strengths) with quasi and permanent hair colours. It is an unstable chemical that will decompose and form water in the following circumstances: If air is allowed to get into it If stored in direct sunlight If it gets hot If dust is allowed to get into it. Therefore stress that hydrogen peroxide should be stored upright, in a dark, cool place, with the lid firmly in place. Warn learners that hydrogen peroxide is flammable and should be stored away from flame and heat. Stress that PPE must be worn whenever hydrogen peroxide is used. Page 8 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Explain to learners that there are two types of hydrogen peroxide: Cream Liquid. Go on to explain that the strength of hydrogen peroxide can be measured and expressed as either: Volume Percentage. Use the handout to illustrate that: 3% is the same strength as 10 volume 6% is the same strength as 20 volume 9% is the same strength as 30 volume 12% is the same strength as 40 volume 18% is the same strength as 60 volume Explain that the use of 18% or 60 volume is prohibited in Europe. Tell learners that the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide are used with different products to provide different amounts of lift. Stress that it is important to use the strength and type of hydrogen peroxide that is recommended by the manufacturer. They must always follow the manufacturer s instructions that go with the product that they are using. As a general rule, explain that: 3% or 10 volume Used for quasi colour 6% or 20 volume Used with permanent colour to achieve one shade of lift or to colour white hair 9% or 30 volume Used with permanent colour to lighten up to three shades 12% or 40 volume Used with some permanent colours (normally high lift) to lighten up to four shades. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 9 - Unit - Session 4.
Ref: Activity.4.4 Dilution of hydrogen peroxide Explain to learners that hydrogen peroxide can be diluted to make a weaker strength. Distilled water must be used for this process. To calculate the dilution of hydrogen peroxide use the following method: Example 1 There is only 40 volume hydrogen peroxide in stock and 30 volume hydrogen peroxide is required. Step 1 Take the strength required from the strength in stock 40 30 = 10 Step 2 Step 3 The first number of the answer tells you how many parts of water are required (1 part). To determine the number of parts hydrogen peroxide required, use the first number of the volume strength required. In this case as the strength required was 30 volume, it is 3 parts that are required. Step 4 Mix one part water with three parts of 40 volume hydrogen peroxide to achieve 30 volume peroxide. Page 10 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Example 2 There is only 30 volume hydrogen peroxide in stock and 10 volume hydrogen peroxide is required Step 1 Take the strength required from the strength in stock 30 10 = 20 Step 2 Step 3 The first number of the answer tells you how many parts of water are required (2 parts). To determine the number of parts hydrogen peroxide required, use the first number of the volume strength required. In this case as the strength required was 10 volume, it is 1 part that is required. Step 4 Mix two parts water with one parts of 30 volume hydrogen peroxide to achieve 10 volume peroxide. Ref: Activity.4.4 Diluting Hydrogen Peroxide Ask the learners complete the activity by calculating the dilution ratios required. 1. From 30 volume hydrogen peroxide, make 20 volume 2. From 40 volume hydrogen peroxide, make 20 volume 3. From 20 volume hydrogen peroxide, make 10 volume 4. From 40 volume hydrogen peroxide, make 10 volume Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 11 - Unit - Session 4.
Answers: 1. 1 part water and 2 parts H202 2. 2 parts water and 2 parts H202 or expressed as 1 part water and 1 part H202 3. 1 part water and 1 part H202 4. 3 parts water and 1 part H202 4.5 How porosity levels can affect the choice and application of products and the results of the colouring process Explain that the condition of the hair is an important factor that needs to be considered before any colouring service. Hair with poor porosity will absorb colour differently to hair that has good porosity. Recap previous learning: the purpose of a porosity test. Explain hair with good porosity - the hair is in good condition the cuticles are smooth poor porosity - hair that is chemically damaged or heat damaged the hair cuticles are raised or missing uneven porosity - the ends of the hair are dry and brittle but the mid lengths and roots are in good condition Ref: Activity.4.5 Ask the learners to complete the activity with your guidance and discuss the answers as a group. Page 12 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
4.6 How and why contra-indications and factors affect choice of colour product and method of application (including the effects of temperature on the application and development of colouring and lightening products) Contra-indications Ask the learners to discuss how each the following contra- indications in the range could restrict or limit colouring services: history of previous allergic reaction to colouring products other known allergies skin disorders incompatible products medical advice or instructions evident hair damage. Ref: Handout.4.6 Factors Explain to learners that the following factors will influence the choice, application and effect of colour products: Temperature Existing colour of the hair The percentage of white hair The test results The strength of hydrogen peroxide The porosity of hair The length of hair The density of hair The skin tone. Temperature Temperature can affect colouring in two ways: 1. The temperature of the salon 2. The heat that is released from the scalp. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 13 - Unit - Session 4.
The temperature of the salon First explain how the temperature of the salon or additional heat can affect colouring services. A warm salon will speed up the processing time of a colour A cool salon will delay the development of colour. Explain that heat is sometimes added to achieve a quicker, lighter result this is very common with highlift colour. However, warn learners that additional heat must only be used if recommended by manufacturers instructions. Stress to learners that too much heat will lead to over processing of colours and damage to the hair structure. Important note: Stress to learners that additional heat must not be applied to many bleach products. Explain that heat will cause the product to develop very quickly, which can lead to damage to the hair and scalp. Always read manufacturers' instructions. Body Heat Ref: Slide.4.6 Explain that a great deal of body heat is lost through the head. Therefore, body heat can affect the application of colour products. As the head is warmest at the root area, the colour will develop more quickly there than on the mid lengths and ends of the hair. Therefore, when colouring hair lighter for the first time (a virgin head application), the hair has to be coloured in the following order to ensure an even result. 1. Mid length of the hair 2. Ends of the hair 3. Roots. Page 14 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Failing to use this method of application when lightening virgin hair will result in root glow ie, where the colour at the roots is brighter and lighter than the mid lengths and ends of the hair. Explain that when colouring virgin hair darker, the colour can be applied from roots to ends in one application. Existing colour of the hair Explain to learners that the starting point for colour consultation is the existing colour of the client s hair. The existing colour may be: Natural Artificial. A colour product must be chosen to suit the requirements of, and work within the limitations of, the existing colour. The percentage of white hair Explain to learners that the percentage of white hair will determine the choice of colour. For example: white hair can only be completely covered by using a permanent colour warm/red/copper temporary and semi-permanent colours cannot be used on white hair as the resultant colour will be too bright the brighter, warmer shades of some permanent or quasi colours have to mixed with natural/base colours to prevent the final result being too bright. The test results Only hair that is in good condition should be treated with colour. The appropriate tests must be carried out and the results recorded on a client record card. Remind learners of the tests and testing covered in Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 15 - Unit - Session 4.
The strength of hydrogen peroxide Explain that the strength of hydrogen peroxide to be used will be determined by the following: The existing colour of the client s hair The amount of lift (or lightness) required The amount of white hair that is present The type of colour that is being used The recommendations made by the product manufacturer. The porosity of hair Remind learners how to test for porosity. Explain that the degree of porosity will have an effect on the finished result of the colour. Hair that is very porous will absorb more colour than hair that is resistant. Therefore, if allowances are not made, the colour result will be uneven. The length of hair Explain that the length of hair will determine the amount of colour that is to be used: Long hair will require more product than short hair. In addition, the length of hair will determine the application of colour when lightening virgin hair. For example, on hair that is to be coloured lighter and is shorter than 6cms, the mid lengths and ends can be coloured at the same time, before colouring the roots of the hair. The skin tone Explain that the colour of the skin must be considered during client consultation. The colour of the hair should complement the tone of the skin. For example: A client with very red skin colouring should be advised against having red colours on their hair, but to choose a colour that will neutralise and cool down the high colour of the skin. A client with very pale skin should be advised to avoid very dark colours on their hair. These would lead to the client looking even paler and drained. Page 16 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
4.7 The importance of restoring the ph balance of the hair following colouring and lightening treatments Ref: Handout.4.5 Restoring the ph balance of the hair Explain to learners that colouring products are alkaline and that after completion of the service the ph balance of the hair must be restored. This can be achieved by using a ph balanced conditioner. The ph balanced conditioner will: Restore the ph balance of the hair Close the cuticle Stop the oxidation process, therefore avoiding creeping oxidation. Tell learners that if they do not restore the acid balance of the hair the cuticle remains lifted and this makes the hair feel rough and brittle. The products that can be used to restore the ph balance of the hair can be: ph balancer keratin hardener colour saver products acid conditioners. Ask learners to identify the product they use in their own salon to restore the ph balance of hair following colouring treatments. 4.8 The importance of not disturbing areas of colour that are still processing when removing colour from developed areas Ask learners what might happen to the hair if a lightening product eg, bleach is left on the hair too long. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 17 - Unit - Session 4.
Answers should include: the hair will be over processed the hair will be damaged the hair may eventually disintegrate Therefore, explain that because of this, when bleach is used for highlighting, some foils (the foils that were inserted first) may have to be removed, while the remaining foils are allowed to develop. However, stress that when removing foils, they must not disturb the foils that are still developing. Disturbing the remaining foils may lead to colour seeping from the folded packets and leaking onto the scalp. Removing foils while others are developing is very common when the learner is beginning to insert foils. Explain that with more experience and practice, the foils will be able to be applied more quickly, thus negating the requirement to remove the foils where the colour has already developed. Suggestion This area of knowledge should be supported by a demonstration in a practical session. 4.9 Why it is important to emulsify colour prior to removal and leave the hair free of colouring and lightening products Remove colour by emulsifying; add a little warm water to the colour, mix the colour with the water by gently massaging around the head - this helps to release the colour from the hair. Explain to the learners that it is very important to ensure that the hair is left free of colouring and lightening products. Page 18 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Ask learners what may happen if products are allowed to remain on the hair. Answers should include: The chemical process will not be stopped, which could result in an uneven colour The colour may cause damage to the hair The colour may stain the client s clothes The hair will look dull The hair will feel tacky. Now use the Learner Check for Session 4 to check the understanding of the learner. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 19 - Unit - Session 4.
Page 20 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Change hair colour Learner Check Session 4 1. Name the colour of the spectrum. 2. State the three primary colours. 3. What does ICC stand for? 4. What is depth? 5. What is tone? 6. State the effect on the hair structure of a semi-permanent hair colour. 7. State the effect on the hair structure of permanent colour. 8. State how long a temporary colour will last. 9. State the storage requirements for hydrogen peroxide. 10. State the application method when colouring virgin hair, lighter. 11. Why is it important to emulsify colour prior to removing it 1. Red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet/purple. 2. Red, yellow, blue. 3. International Colour Chart. 4. How light or how dark a colour is. 5. The colour that is seen. 6. The colour molecules coat the cuticle and enter the outer cortex. 7. Small molecules of colour are mixed with hydrogen peroxide which swell once in the cortex and remain there. 8. One shampoo. 9. Ensure the cap is replaced after use Store in a dark bottle Store in a cool place Store in a dark place. 10. Apply to mid lengths then ends, then roots. 11. Releases the colour from the hair Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 21 - Unit - Session 4.
Page 22 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Basic Science Trainer Summary 4.1 The principles of colour selection Remind learners that the colour spectrum is made up of: Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Violet/purple. This can be remembered by the acronym Richard Of York Gave Battle in Vain. The colour star is based on the colours of the spectrum, and the colour star forms the basis for the International Colour Chart. The ICC is a systematic way for describing the colours available for the hair. The colours are identified by numbers (or letters) relating to the depth and tone of each shade. Depth is how light or how dark a colour is Tone is the colour that is seen ie, warm, ash, cool. 4.2 How the natural pigment within the hair affects the choice of colour and colouring products and the possible need to pre-lighten Remind learners: how the final colour depends on the proportions of melanin and pheomelanin in the hair that high lift tint will only lift the natural hair colour up to four shades, hair with a natural dark base that has a red or warm tone will need to be pre-lightened. 4.3 The effects of different colouring and lightening products on the hair structure Recap on the handout illustrating the effect of the various types of colour on the structure of the hair. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 23 - Unit - Session 4.
4.4 The effects of the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide and how to dilute it to get different strengths Reiterate the use of peroxide for: For use with quasi colours 10 vol Covering white hair 10 or 20 vol For lifting one or two shades 20 vol For lifting up to three shades 30 vol For lifitng up to four shades 40 vol. Remind learners of the importance of only using the strength of peroxide recommended by the manufacturer. Remind learners of the method for diluting hydrogen peroxide, and that distilled water must be used for this purpose. 4.5 How porosity levels can affect the choice and application of products and the results of the colouring process Remind learners that hair with: good porosity - the hair is in good condition poor porosity - hair that is chemically damaged or heat damaged uneven porosity - the ends of the hair are dry and brittle but the mid lengths and roots are in good condition. 4.6 How and why contra-indications and factors affect choice of colour product and method of application (including the effects of temperature on the application and development of colouring and lightening products) Remind learners of the following contra-indications: history of previous allergic reaction to colouring products other known allergies skin disorders incompatible products medical advice or instructions evident hair damage Page 24 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Remind learners of the effects of the following factors when colouring hair: Temperature Existing colour of the hair The percentage of white hair The test results The strength of hydrogen peroxide The porosity of hair The length of hair The skin tone. 4.7 The importance of restoring the ph balance of the hair following colouring and lightening treatments Remind learners that using a ph balanced conditioner will: Restore the ph balance of the hair Close the cuticle Stop the oxidation process, therefore avoiding creeping oxidation. 4.8 The importance of not disturbing areas of colour that are still processing when removing colour from developed areas Remind learners that developing foils must not be disturbed to ensure the colour does not leak from the packets. 4.9 Why it is important to emulsify colour prior to removal and leave the hair free of colouring and lightening products Remind learners that emulsifying the colour first helps to release the colour from the hair and to ensure: The chemical process is stopped, preventing an uneven colour Damage to the hair is prevented The client s clothes are not stained The hair does not look dull The hair does not feel tacky. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 25 - Unit - Session 4.
Basic Science Key/Core Skill Opportunities There will be an opportunity to promote discussion when covering.4.6 Why areas of colour still developing must not be disturbed.4.7 Why the hair and scalp must be left free of colour and lightening products. There will be an opportunity to carry out straightforward calculations when covering Activity.4.3 diluting hydrogen peroxide Page 26 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.