Issue #80 March 15 th 2017 Calvin Klein Adieu M. Lafont On Monday, March 6, Philippe Lafont, President of Silmo, passed away pg. 3 The fifth Emporio Armani s harmonious opposites pg. 5 edition of OMO The results of Optical Monitor were presented at MIDO pg. 2
The fifth edition of OMO For the first time the research focused on four new countries: United States, China, Russia and Japan The OMO-Optical Monitor six-monthly survey commissioned jointly by MIDO and SILMO to GFK explored consumers habits in terms of possession, purchase and use of prescription eyewear and sunglasses in four new countries: United States, China, Russia and Japan, the former being a well-established and critical market for eyewear, and with the others having great potential. The countries were then benchmarked against Europe s big five markets, the traditional focus of this survey now in its fifth edition. In terms of possession of eyewear, Europe continues to be the area with the greatest market penetration both for sunglasses (which are selling very well in Russia) and prescription eyewear (especially in Japan, where the higher mean age of the population has increased the percentage of eyesight problems). China instead, is the country where contact lenses are most used. Another interesting figure concerns purchasing frequency. The purchasing behavior of consumers in the U.S., China, Russia and Japan is very much the same for sunglasses and prescription eyewear. However, if the average for the 5 main European countries is slightly longer than 3 years, similar to the U.S. and Russia, surprisingly for Chinese consumers this is less (2 years) and for Japan it is more than 4 years. The percentage share of on-line purchases also comes as a surprise, and is very similar as in the 5 main European countries, low for prescription eyewear, except for the United States, and about 10% for sunglasses. As far as average prices are concerned, the top 5 players in Europe remain the most interesting countries: 273 for prescription eyewear versus 207 in the U.S., 168 in Japan, 97 in China and 50 in Russia. For sunglasses also, Japan is in line with the European prices (97 versus 96), while for the other countries this is much less: (79 for China, 57 for the United States, and just 27 for Russia). The prices also reflect the different income levels in each country and its eyewear distribution. For sunglasses, the purchase channels are very different: department stores are decisive in the United States, and in Russia there are also sunglass specialists, as is the case for China, whereas chain stores rank first in Japan. A significant trend is street markets in Russia, a good 12% of the consumers interviewed stated they had bought sunglasses at a street market. The wellknown issue of counterfeiting could be addressed here... but this is another matter. Also to be pointed out is a fact that had already emerged last year in the 5 main European countries: eyewear competition in the near future will be both on- and offline in China, Japan, Russia and the U.S. too. world weekly wonders WMIDO 2
Vivienne Westwood renews with AVM 1959 AVM 1959 has announced the renewal of the multiyear license agreement with Vivienne Westwood for the design, manufacture and exclusive global distribution of optical and sun eyewear. The license for the British label is part of the Volta Mantovana-based company s development plan. During a rebranding and restructuring process in 2016, it refocused its strategies on two mainstays: house brands and licensing in other words, the development of wholly-owned labels and the simultaneous expansion of strategic licenses. In recent years, growth in volumes confirms that the collections have successfully put across the style of the Vivienne Westwood brand, so much so that we have decided to continue the collaboration, the company stated. The launch of Valentino At the end of February, Valentino and Luxottica celebrated the first collection resulting from the 2016 license agreement at the Valentino Mirage event in Palazzo Clerici, Milan. Change of Perspective was the leitmotif of the event, where every guest was involved in a visual experience of continually changing perspectives. Valentino Mirage was created in collaboration with Real Live LLC, whose founders, Jonathan Hochwald and Arthur Karpati, also produced the renowned Sleep No More and created The McKittrick Hotel, New York City. In this eyewear collection, the fashion house s aesthetics and timeless elegance are fully conveyed in a metissage of sensual lines and metals, glamorous crystals and nylon, and the atelier s signature studs on the temples. Adieu M. Lafont On Monday, March 6, Philippe Lafont, president of Silmo and founder of the atelier Lafont, passed away. A considerable expert on the sector and eyewear devotee, he leaves an enormous void at a human as well as a professional level. MIDO president, Cirillo Marcolin, remembered him with these words: We are all very sad about his sudden passing. His presidency marked a turning point by contributing to strengthening the collaboration between MIDO and Silmo. It is also thanks to his drive that our two fairs were able to communicate and work constructively together for the good of the sector. We will miss his farsightedness and his discreet but perceptive leadership and we will always remember him for his savoir-faire and refinement. The digital museum dedicated to eyewear Debuting at MIDO, www.galleriasafilo.com is the new digital museum in the world entirely dedicated to eyewear, its history and technology. Every guest visiting the GalleriaSafilo.com will have the opportunity to register and create a personal gallery, selecting and downloading the favorite pieces from the 300 unique pieces of Safilo s permanent collection on display. This includes glasses that belonged to Elvis Presley, Madonna and Elton John, ancient and contemporary artworks all classified by genre (ancient, modern, active, celebrities, lifestyle, art, science), historical period (from the seventeenth to the twenty-first century), brand (Safilo, Polaroid, Carrera, Smith) that can be shared in social networks, tagging friends. In addition to the permanent collection which will be progressively enriched by showcasing additional items from the collection of 3000 pieces it will propose a calendar of events and temporary exhibitions. world weekly wonders WMIDO 3
Moscot arrives in Rome Moscot, the family-run brand founded in New York City 102 years ago, continues to strengthen its presence in Europe by opening its first mono-brand store in Rome at the beginning of March. The site of a creative, diversified and vast urban community, the Italian capital is where art and history converge on every corner and where the world of the brand, in the typical style of the Lower East Side of New York City, opens its doors at 267 Via Cola di Rienzo, in the heart of the city. The opening in Rome follows the new store in London and the company s European HQ in Lugano, Switzerland. To date, the brand is available at 800 optical outlets in 23 European countries. Glamour Editor s Pick collection is born L Amy America announced it has entered into a multiyear license agreement with Condé Nast to market and distribute sunglasses and ophthalmic frames for the Glamour brand under the name Glamour Editor s Pick. We are pleased to partner with Condé SStephen Rappoport, CEO and President Lamy USA Stephen Rappoport, CEO and President Lamy USA Nast and Glamour to create eyewear collections for one of the most wellknown and respected women s brands in the United States, said Stephen Rappoport, President and CEO of L Amy America. Glamour, utilizing the power of their print and social media platform, will enable L Amy to enhance women s experience while purchasing Glamour Editor s Pick eyewear in optical, department stores, and specialty retailers throughout North America. De Rigo Vision and Chopard consolidate partnership De Rigo and prestigious Swiss company Chopard, the creator of high-end timepieces and jewelry, have signed the early renewal of a license contract for the design, manufacture and worldwide distribution of optical and sun eyewear with the Chopard Eyewear label. De Rigo Group president, Ennio De Rigo, said: We are very proud about the human and professional relationship that we have had with the Scheufele family and the Chopard brand for over ten years. The early renewal of our partnership is the consolidation of a collaboration that will enable us to take advantage of new growth opportunities for this exclusive and prestigious brand. The Chopard Eyewear collections are available at major optical stores and Chopard boutiques, worldwide. Turn over design by Mario Milana Marco Colagrossi Creative Director Women prêt-à-porter Emanuel Ungaro James Gotch Marketing and EMEA Wholesale Director Mondottica Barry Lannon Director of Lab Operations Carl Zeiss Vision Claudio Marenzi President Pitti Immagine Séverine Merle CEO Céline world weekly wonders WMIDO 4
Design, fashion & lifestyle Inspiring design Photo credit: BYYU Ltd. The new Dsquared2 and K-Way capsule Dsquared2, the renowned Italian fashion house, has launched a special co-branding project with the iconic French brand, K-Way. The capsule collection is the perfect blend of the contemporary, sophisticated design associated with luxury sportswear by Dsquared2 and K-Way s smart and informal approach. Available starting July 2017, the collection will be launched during the first fall/winter 2017 co-ed show, with a selection of unique garments: reversible and easy-to-fold jackets created for him or her without distinction. Designed by Dean and Dan Caten, every garment conveys the iconic characteristics of the two brands: attention to detail and fun, color, spontaneity and a strong character. A surprising interpretation of the Victory Boogie Woogie of Mondrian and a digital driven approach towards furniture design, are on show at Design Days Dubai from 13-17 March. The jacquard woven tapestries MyMondrian Day and MyMondrian Night are designed by visual artist Ilona Lénárd. She pushes Mondrian's last unfinished painting into the third dimension, evoking the image of urban blocks and street canyons. The Body Chair is going to be the Rietveld chair of the 21st century, as it consists of 28 pairs of 56 triangular base components, parametrically designed as to allow for endless geometric variations. This Make-Your-Own shaping process is driven by a web based application, allowing the customers to shape their own personal chair. Cindy Crawford is new face of Silestone Emporio Armani s harmonious opposites Garments with an edgy, metropolitan spirit made up of harmonious opposites that blend, peak, separate and contrast: this is the fall/winter 2017-2018 collection for the Emporio Armani woman. The game of contrasts begins with opposites black and white that coincide with the male and female conversation: Prince of Wales, chevron and polka dots are enlarged on PVC, spread on suits and wraparound overcoats, emphasized by a black-tie effect plastron. A graphic treatment for floral patterns, pictorial prints and embroidered sequins mixed with rapid, instinctive strokes. There is only one denominator: small, skintight pants. Silestone, one of the leaders of the quartz surfaces sector, has announced the new face that will represent the Spanish brand for the next two years. Cindy Crawford, one of the most famous top models in the world, is the star of the advertising campaigns scheduled for 2017-2018. Silestone and Cindy Crawford decided to get together to represent the best of beauty, fashion and design in an advertising campaign titled Tops On Top. Starting March it will appear in the main lifestyle, fashion, design, furnishings and architecture magazines, worldwide. Editorial Director: Francesco Gili MIDO Srl Unipersonale Via Petitti, 16-20149 Milano (Italy) Phone +39 02 32673673 P. Iva IT 07164050150 Cod. Fiscale e n. Iscr. Ufficio Imprese di Milano 07164050150 Cap. soc. 120.000,00 i.v. R.e.a. 1710133 Company subject to the direction and the coordination of Anfao - Associazione Nazionale Fabbricanti Articoli Ottici WMIDO is published in cooperation with Publicomm srl Piazzetta Brera 24/2-20121 Milano (Italy) P. Iva 02030290999 email: redazione@wmido.com world weekly wonders WMIDO 5