MAKE-UP COURSE (LESSON ONE)

MAKE-UP COURSE (LESSON ONE) 1

Concealers and colour correctors Before you begin to apply make-up to the face, inspect the skin and identify any areas that require concealing, such as blemishes, uneven skin colour or shadows. Foundation may be used to disguise minor imperfections, but where extra coverage is required it is necessary to apply a special concealer, a cosmetic designed to provide maximum skin coverage. The concealer may be applied directly to the skin after skin moisturising, or following application of the foundation. Choose a concealer that matches the skin tone as closely as possible. If the concealer is to be applied after the foundation, it should match the colour of the foundation. Concealer can contain pigment to help correct skin tone. GREEN helps to counteract high colouring, and to conceal dilated capillaries. LILAC counteracts a sallow skin colour WHITE & CREAM helps to correct unevenness in the skin pigmentation Concealers come in a range of colours, to suit all skins. Mix different colours together to obtain the required colour. 2

Concealers and colour correctors Concealer or corrector Corrective concealer What they are Pros & Cons Best for Green tinged, creamy formula in a stick or tube that takes the edge off red spots +Easy to use; some contain healing ingredients - Often no more effective than a normal concealer Targeting small areas of redness, like spots, scars and broken veins Neutralising primer or base Liquid, lotion or gel, often with a hint of colour, cancels out redness or brightens skin tone. Also called calming or controlling. +Lightweight; can usually be worn under or over foundation - Adds another stage to your make-up routine Women who suffer from all over high colour or ashy dullness Corrector palette Corrector pot Three or four corrective colours-either cream or powder-in a handy palette Cream or cream-topowder corrective colour in a pot +Good for dealing with different types of discolouration - Not all the colours will be useful to you; doesn t last long +Smooth and sheer; can be used under normal concealer - Quality brands can pricey; need to use with a light hand Keeping all your concealing or colour correcting needs in one place Dealing with small, recurring problem areas, like under eye bags or red blotches 3

Applying concealer Remove a small quantity of the concealer from its container, using a clean disposable spatula. Apply the concealer to the area to be disguised, using either a clean make-up sponge or a soft make-up brush. Blend the concealer to achieve a realistic effect. COLOURING CORRECTING THEORIES LILAC counteracts yellow. It is supposed to help to disguise bruises and lift teird-looking, sallow complexions. YELLOW cancels out blue. Can help to hide blue or purple shadows under the eyes, as well as brusies and redness. Makes most skin tones look more bright and even. PINK or PEACH get rid of grey. Both of these are used regularly by make-up artists to bring a healthy flush of colour to dull skin. GREEN neutralizes red. Traditionally, green is thought to tone down high colour, red blemishes and rosy skin but most people find it makes them look quite ill. 4

How to apply concealer to camouflage Always check the manufacturer s instructions on how to apply camouflage/concealing products. Brands vary and some may require different preparation and setting techniques. This type of concealer is thick and it is preferable to build up several layers to achieve the desired effect, rather than applying a thick layer. 1. Select the chosen colour or colour mixture that best matches the skin tone surrounding the area to be treated. 2. Using your ring and middle fingers in a patting motion, or using a dry sponge, blend the make-up thinly over the problem area, extending it approximately two cm past the edge. If disguising scars, a brush may be used to feather the make-up at the edges to create a natural effect. The sponge may be dampened if needed to facilitate extra blending. 3. Build up the colour depth to ensure the blemish is completely covered, thinning the colour at the edge in. A small make-up brush can be used to blend in the edges of the make-up. 4. Once the required result has been achieved, apply the fixing powder generously with a large powder puff. 5

How to apply concealer to camouflage 5. Leave the make-up to set for five to ten minutes 6. Gently brush any excess fixing powder with a large, soft make-up brush, e.g. blusher/powder brush. Blot off excess powder if required with damp cottonwool. The make-up is now waterproof and rub resistant, and should not be delectable. 7. If the camouflage has been applied to the face, full make-up may now be applied. The foundation colour selected should match the colour of the camouflage make-up. 8. Apply foundation up to the area of camouflage make-up and blend so that an invisible finish is created. Putting an oily cream foundation over the camouflage make-up will move or remove the camouflage make-up; it is best to use a non-oily or liquid foundation. Covering a deep red mark: use a green pigmented make-up first, then apply make-up which matches the skin tone over the top. Covering a dark brown mark: use white, opaque make-up first, then apply make-up which matches the skin tone over the top. Covering a lighter mark: commence with a darker foundation and apply make-up which matches the skin tone over the top 6

Foundation The main purpose of foundation is to even out the skin s texture and colour, so that make-up can be applied to a consistent base to: Moisturise Provide a matt finish on an oily skin Cover minor blemishes Brighten or enhance the complexion Foundation is available as cream, liquid, gel, cake or mousse. It is composed of water, powder, oil, humectants (such as glycerol), inorganic pigments, and additivies that protect the skin from the environment (such as sunscreens and mositurisers). Some foundations contain anti-ageing ingredients such as vitamin E. These are to neutralise free radicals, natural chemicals thought to be responsible for damaging the skin and producing the skins of ageing-wrinkles and lines. 7

Foundation Each foundation differs in its formulation to suit a particular skin type. The correct choice will guarantee that the foundation lasts throughout the day. SPECIAL INGREDIENTS Foundations don t just make our skin look perfect, added ingredients help in other ways: Look for these on the label: SILICONES-Let foundation slide over the skin and give a velvety finish. SUNSCREENS-Guard against the ageing effects of UV rays-spf15 gives the best protection LIGHT REFLECTING PIGMENTS-Bounce light off the skin, making it look luminous and throwing fine lines into soft focus. LIGHT RESPONSIVE PARTICLES-Adjust to make skin look good in all kinds of lighting. ANTIOXIDENTS-Help boost the production of collagen, which keeps skin supple. MINUTE COLOUR PIGMENTS-Mean no streaks and a perfectly even base. ESSENTIAL TOOLS There are many types of application for foundation; and some require brushes for a smooth application or a sponge to get better coverage. Below, will explain the two types of tools used. BRUSHES-Great for applying liquid or cream foundation to give a well-blended but sheer finish. SPONGES-Brilliant at blending-good for use with cream, gel, liquid and powder fornulas. Wedges reach the awkward areas around the eyes and nose; flat ovals ensure even coverage. 8

Foundation-CREAM Cream foundations are oil based and blend easily on application. They provide a heavy coverage, and have these specific treatments uses: Dry skin Normal skin Mature skin Foundation type CREAM What is does Pros & Cons Best for Gives a medium to full coverage with an even finish +Keeps skin moisturized, which means fine lines are less obvious - Needs a lot of blending: can be too heavy for oily skins Dry, uneven or mature skins, when you want your complexion to look velvety 9

Foundation-LIQUID Liquid foundations are oil-or water-based, providing light to medium coverage. Oil based liquid foundations have these specific treatments uses: Dry skin/ Normal skin/ Mature skin/ Combination skin (apply to the dry areas only) Water based liquid foundations have the following uses: Normal skin/ Oily skin/ Combination skin (apply to the dry areas only) Water based foundations do not spread very easily because the water content rapidly evaporates, so these foundations must be applied quickly. Foundation type What is does Pros & Cons Best for Provides sheer, lightweight, LIQUID natural-looking coverage +Comes in lots of shades and waterbased formulas -Can dry quickly on contact with air; won t nourish dry skin. All skin types, when you want to look natural and don t want to feel foundation on your face 10

Foundation-GEL Gel foundations provide sheer, nongreasy coverage. They have these specific treatment uses: Black unblemished skin Tanned skin Skin on which a natural effect is required Foundation type GEL What is does Pros & Cons Best for Texture-free formula with sheer, translucent coverage + Glides on smoothly and doesn t accentuate lines - Can dry quickly so you need to work fast to blend it in Young, clear skins, when you want an even base rather than blemish coverage 11

Foundation-COMPACT Compact or cake foundations may have an oil, wax or powder base. They give heavy coverage, and have these specific treatment uses: Dry skin Tanned skin Badly blemished or scarred skin Foundation type What is does Pros & Cons Best for All-in-one foundation and powder that gives medium to full COMPACT coverage. +Easy to apply; no need for separate powder - Can look heavy and caked on, especially on dry skin Normal, oily or combination skins, when you re on the go and need quick coverage 12

Foundation-MINERAL POWDER Mineral powder foundation works best for lighter skin tones. Most mineral makeup is actually good for your skin and won't clog pores. The key component that gives this makeup its skin-care qualities is, of course, the minerals which include titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Both known (and effective) UV protectors. Those who have dry skin may notice that mineral makeup can sometimes accentuate flakes or rough patches, while oily skin can be highlighted too. Excellent choice for: Oily or acne prone skin Skin that is troubled by scarring, redness or rosacea. Foundation type What is does Pros & Cons Best for Works best on Oily and acne skins with lighter prone skin skin tones. Great for a light coverage of skin blemishes. Mineral Powder + Provides an excellent coverage for troubled skin - However, applying to much can accentuate lines and wrinkles. 13

Foundation-MOUSSE Mousse foundations provide light to medium coverage depending on application technique. The best thing about mousse foundation is that it has the light feel of powder foundation, yet it has that sheer coverage you'll get from liquid foundation. You'll know how much coverage you'll get based on texture. A dry mousse means medium coverage, while a creamier consistency gives you heavy coverage. They have a mineral oil base. Their specific uses: Normal skin Combination skin Foundation type What is does Pros & Cons Best for Mousse foundations tend +The lightweight feel of powder Dry, mature and combination skin to have a perfect foundation Mousse matte finish and a - If applied to Foundation weightless feel. thick it can create a mask like appearance. 14

Foundation-TINTED MOISTURISER Tinted moisturizers tend to be lightweight in texture and provide coverage like other foundation makeup products. Tinted moisturizers are especially good if you have a dry face, or dry skin type. They are great for a sheer, natural look and you don t need as much coverage. Depending on the type of moisturizer you buy, you can expect to find different tints and intensity. Some products have more pigment than others, while others can have enough to rival foundation. Tinted moisturizers are made for every skin type. You may be able to find ones for anti aging and oily skin. Foundation type What is does Pros & Cons Best for Provides luminous +Evens out skin skin, and great tone to give you Dry skin types light weight a dewy coverage to complexion - Tinted foundation. Moisturizer with Moisturiser They are also tint usually great for concealing pigmentation, contains harmful dyes, which may cause a reaction age spots. 15

Foundation colour The colour of the foundation should match your natural skin colour. Test the foundation for compatibility on the jaw line or forehead. If an incorrect colour is selected, or if the foundation is insufficiently blended on application, there will be a noticeable demarcation line. Fair Olive Skin colour Foundation colour Ivory or light beige, with warm tones of pink or peach Dark beige or bronze Suntanned Florid Sallow Bronze Matt beige with a green tint Beige with a pink tint Light brown Medium brown Dark brown Black Light brown foundation with a warm tone Light brown with an orange tone Deep bronze foundation with an orange tone Dark golden bronze (usually a gel) 16

Applying the foundation If the foundation is in a jar, remove some from its container using a clean disposable spatula. Put it on a clean make-up palette. Foundation may be applied using either a large soft brush, which is stroked over the surface of the skin, or a cosmetic sponge. It should be applied to one area of the face at a time, with an outward stroking movement. Use a cosmetic sponge to blend the foundation. Take care that you blend it at the hairline and at the jawline. Avoid clogging the eyebrows with foundation. The cosmetic make-up wedge is designed to apply varying amounts of pressure to the different areas of the face, and to ensure even coverage of the foundation. When applying foundation around the eye area, use a small soft brush or angular edge of a cosmetic sponge. This will help you achieve accuracy in application. The extent of coverage can be controlled by the method of application. If the cosmetic sponge is damp, coverage is light and sheer. To achieve a heavier coverage, use a dry latex sponge. Apply foundation to cover the entire face, including the lips and the eyelids. Do not extend the make-up past the jawline unless the occasion requires this-for example, if a brides dress exposes part of the upper chest. 17

Face Powder Face powder is applied to set the foundation, disguising minor blemishes and making the skin appear smooth and oil free. It also protects the skin from the environment by acting as a barrier. Most powders are based on talc as the main ingredient, but talc particles are of uneven size, and substitutes such as mica are now becoming popular. These give a more natural, flattering appearance to the skin. Powder adheres to the foundation through the addition of zinc, magnesium stearate or fatty esters. These chemicals set the make-up and remove tackiness. Further powder products can then be applied to the skin. Face powder contains absorbent materials such as precipitated chalk or nylon derivatives. These absorb sweat and sebum throughout the day, reducing shine and giving the foundation greater durability. During manufacture, the insoluble substances in face powder go through a process called micronisation in which the particles are finely ground to make a powder, which is then thoroughly blended. Colour pigment may be added to produce different shades and effects. 18

Loose powders Loose powders do not contain any oils or gums to bind the powder together. They are available in a range of shades, with different pastel pigments added to counteract skin imperfections. Colours include pink and lilac, which is flattering when viewed under artificial lights; yellow, which enhances a tanned skin; and green, which counteracts a red skin. Iridescent ingredients may be included to produce shimmering and highlighting effects. Many cosmetic products contain titanium dioxide, an opaque white pigment, to provide coverage. When applied to black skin, this can give the skin a chalky appearance. When selecting products for black skin, bear in mind not just the shade but also the ingredients. 19

Compact powders Compact powders contain a gum, mixed with the ingredients to bind them together. These powders provide a greater coverage, especially if they contain titanium dioxide. Pressed powders should be recommended only for a client s personal use, and then only to remove shine from the skin during the day, as required. Tip Some powders reflect light whilst appearing subtle and non-shiny. These are most flattering for mature skin, as wrinkles appear less obvious. Tip (Health & Safety) Before application, always remove sufficient loose powder from the container. This minimizes the chances of bacteria entering the powder. 20

How to apply powder Face powder is applied after foundation, unless a water-based foundation or a combination powder foundation has been selected. Select a matt powder for a daytime make-up, and an iridescent powder for an evening make-up. 1. Remove the loose powder from its container, using a clean spatula or, if the powder is in a shaker, by sprinkling it out. Place the powder on a clean facial tissue. 2. Using a clean piece of cotton wool, press the cotton wool into the powder and then press the powder all over the face. 3. Remove excess powder using a large, disinfected facial powder brush. Direct the brush strokes first up the face, which dislodges the powder, then down the face, which flattens the facial hair and removes the final residue of excess powder. Facial contouring using powder products may now be carried out. 21

Blusher Changing the shape of the face and the facial features can be achieved with the careful application of contour cosmetics. These products draw attention either towards or away from facial features, and can create the optical illusion of perfection. Contour cosmetics include highlighters, shaders, and blushers. They are available in powder, liquid and cream forms. Highlighters draw attention towards-they emphasise Shaders draw attention away-they minimise Blushers add warmth to the face and emphasise the facial contours Each face differs in shape and size, so each requires a different application technique. Some blushers appear very vibrant in the container, yet when they are applied to the skin they are subtle. SPECIAL INGREDIENTS WHEAT PROTEIN- Locks moisture to the skin, making it feel firmer and helping to soften the look of lines and wrinkles. TRIGLYCRERIDES- Help cream and liquid blush blend without a sticky, greasy feel, and they make UV filters more effective. DIMETHICONE- A silicone, gives blusher a smooth, velvety feel, makes it last longer and helps pigment to disperse evenly. JET-MILLED POWDER- has extra-fine particles and makes powder blusher feel almost velvety on your skin. 22

Blusher Type of blusher What it does Pros & cons Best for Cream to powder Gel Creamy formula gives a soft powdery finish Clear gel provides sheer tint of light barely-there colour + Easy to blend with fingers; good for colour or shading - Can settle in enlarged pores; can be too heavy for the summer +Long lasting; water-based so won t cause breakouts - Difficult to layer and strengthen colour; too sheer to define cheekbones Dry skins all year round, and al skins types in winter when you want a more moisturising and protective blush Oily skins, and when you want a healthy, natural glow in summer and for sports Liquid Powder Stain Cream Gives natural looking colour without texture Gives versatile colour with a matte finish Liquid sinks into skin leaving texture-free colour that stays in place Gives opaque colour with a dewy finish that stays moist +Similar to a stain but easier to blend -can move concealer and some types of foundation when applied on top +Comes in lots of shades and finishes; wont smudge concealer; easy to layer to build up instensity - Can look heavy on dry skin + Long-lasting, natural looking colours in flattering shades - Dries quickly so you need to work fast to blend it in; can look patchy on dry, uneven skin + Comes in a wide range of colours; blends in smoothly with fingers - Doesn t set so can smudge and wear off Oily and combination skins, on bare skin or over very sheer foundation Any skin type, when you want to create a flush of colour or sculpt cheekbones Any skin type, when you want a natural daytime look with staying power Dry or mature skin, when you want moisturising colour 23

How to apply powder blushers 1. Stroke the contour brush over the powder blusher. Tap the brush gently to dislodge excess blusher. 2. Apply the blusher to the cheek area, carefully placing the product according to the effect you wish to create. The direction of brush strokes should be upwards and outwards, towards the hairline. Keep the blusher away from the nose, and avoid applying blusher too near the outer eye. 3. Apply more blusher if necessary. The key to successful blusher application is to build up colour slowly until you have achieved the optimum effect. 24