JANUARY 2018 ISSUE #401 US$15 Platinum 2018 Turkey retains edge in global jewellery scene EXOTIC FANTASIES
Issue number 401 JAN 2018 CONTENTS 9 MESSAGE FROM THE EDITOR Revolutionary Road 12 NEWS Green gems shine in Gübelin s Mystical Garden collection Provocative Ultra Violet named Pantone Colour of 2018 16 FAIRS HAPPENINGS Simple designs dominate HKJMA Fair 18 SPECIAL FEATURES Turkey retains edge in global jewellery scene 29 40 22 SHOWCASE Exotic fantasies 28 INSIGHT Platinum 2018 Gem projections
Art Direction & Styling: Irene Foo Styling Assistant: Tingo Ko Jewellery: Wendy Yue Model: Ann Ev (Primo) Make-up: Li Li Hair: Po Lam Photography: Kim Ham On the cover Ring with an opal centre gem, tanzanite, blue and pink sapphires, tsavorites, diamonds and rubies; opal, sapphire, diamond and tsavorite earrings; and bangle with an opal centre stone, diamonds and tanzanites by Wendy Yue 29 34 FRONTLINE Stand out, step up 36 BRANDS Bulgari and the art of fine jewellery making 40 DESIGN Inspired creations Shining light on young African talent 44 INTELLIGENCE Pearl auction revelations 46 TRENDS & STYLES Colourful Connection White Magic 49
Director Irene Foo Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Christie Dang EDITORIAL Editor Olivia Quiniquini Managing Editor Sze Man Young Assistant Editors Bernardette Sto. Domingo, Dodo To Writer Elmo Wong Senior Directories Research Executive William Yick Administrative Executive Tingo Ko SALES Regional Head of Sales Christine Sinn Advertising Manager Tina Hui Account Managers Jennifer Chan, Karen Lam Sales Administrator Cat Lee MARKETING Assistant Marketing Manager Winkle Yim Senior Marketing Executive Althea Long, Grace Tam Online Specialist Pansy Lo CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION Senior Circulation Executive Lonita Hui PRODUCTION Senior Production Manager Jessie Quek Senior Graphic Designer Eva Kam Advertising Administration Eva So China: Italy: Japan: Taiwan: ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES Wendy Yip, UBM China (Guangzhou) Co Ltd Tel: (86) 20 8666 0158 E-mail: wendy.yip@ubm.com Shenzhen Office Tel: (86) 755 8268 6301 E-mail: christine.sinn@ubm.com Mauro Arati, Studio Luciano Arati sas, Largo Camus, 1, 20145 Milan - Italy Tel: (39) 02048517853 E-mail: info@studioarati.it Nobuaki Nito, UBM Japan Co Ltd Tel: (81) 3 52961020 E-mail: nobuaki.nito@ubm.com Sabine Liu, UBM Asia Ltd - Taiwan Branch Tel: (886) 2 2738 3898 E-mail: sabine.liu@ubm.com Thailand: Anuchana Vichvech, UBM Asia (Thailand) Co Ltd Tel: (66) 2 642 6911 E-mail: anna.v@ubm.com US: Cecilia Wun, UBM Asia Ltd USA Tel: (1) 516 562 7855 E-mail: cecilia.wun@ubm.com President & CEO Jimé Essink Senior Vice President Wolfram Diener Founder Letitia Chow Mei Lai Published by UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Telephone: (852) 2827 6211 Fax: (852) 3749 7348 www.jewellerynewsasia.com Copyright Contents of JNA are copyright. Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorisation of the publisher. JNA is published in Hong Kong each month and is available on subscription. Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong.
Message from the Editor Revolutionary Road The road to renewal is long and winding, especially in a more challenging business environment where everything seems evolving. In today s world, there is no one-size-fits-all business model. A clear vision and a set of smart goals are prerequisites to success while an open attitude and constant collaboration among clients, partners and team members is crucial. The year 2018 is here, ushered in by a deluge of success stories, which conveyed the importance of persistence and a positive attitude. Many might view millennials as unpredictable and difficult to please but the market potential of this younger generation of buyers is undeniable. As a matter of fact, the whole industry has been working hard on educating and nurturing a group of sophisticated consumers who have impeccable taste; understand their own personal needs; value professionalism; and appreciate quality, artistry, craftsmanship and creative designs that suit their individual personalities. Here they are: The modern consumers. It is now time for the jewellery industry to capture these fast-growing business opportunities. In the Insight section of this issue, PGI CEO Huw Daniel shares his vision and mission for platinum in the world s most promising jewellery markets. The potential for platinum jewellery in the bridal segment is enormous even in India, which has a deeply entrenched gold tradition. Clement Sabbagh, president of the International Colored Gemstone Association, highlights changes in consumer profiles and expectations that one must consider in order to move forward. We also take a closer look at how Turkish manufacturers retain their edge in the global jewellery sector under the Special Features section. Together with everyone in the entire jewellery industry, JNA is continuing on its journey to becoming better and stronger, and with the support and trust of our readers and partners, we are confident that 2018 will be another year of brilliance! Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Christie Dang Necklace from Bulgari s Divas Dream collection
NEWS Green gems shine in Gübelin s Mystical Garden collection The House of Gübelin is diving deep into the inner world of green gemstones with the Mystical Garden collection. Emeralds and beryls, which contain plant-like shapes that evoke images of trees and flowers, were the inspiration behind this new collection, according to Gübelin. Mystical Garden also includes the Ancient Path and Ornament of Flowers lines. Ancient Path was influenced by geometric shapes inside emeralds, visible only through microphotography. Miniscule droplets, enclosed within the emerald as it forms, adapt to the crystalline structure and create a surprisingly exact pattern, noted the jewellery house. The Ornament of Flowers line, meanwhile, is based on the play of colours inside a gemstone. Within the gem, light is reflected by a thin liquid layer, creating a pattern that radiates the most varied shades of colour. Gübelin s designers found their muse in this wonder of nature and created a platinum necklace centred around a Colombian emerald of 2.84 carats. An entourage of diamonds in various cuts and shapes surrounds the coloured gem, lending the piece its brilliance. Round 'Ancient Path' necklace and earrings in white gold with Colombian emeralds and diamonds emeralds in this size and quality are extremely rare, noted Gübelin, adding that Colombian emeralds are especially sought after. IDWI 2018 HIGHLIGHTS ROLE OF TECHNOLOGY IN DIAMOND SECTOR The 7th International Diamond Week in Israel (IDWI), scheduled for February 5 to 7, 2018, will showcase innovative technologies aimed at taking the diamond industry to the next level. Event organiser Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) said it is focusing on a new technology-driven direction, which could bring about crucial changes to the diamond sector in Israel and worldwide. IDE earlier launched various initiatives to support its new direction, including GET DIAMONDS, a B2B e-commerce platform for bourse members as well as the first Diamond Innovation Center for technological startups in the diamond industry. Most recently, IDE revealed the upcoming launch of a digital currency backed by diamonds. Technology is revolutionising the way we live and the way we do business. The IDWI will unveil how IDE is using these technologies to transform and upgrade the diamond industry, said Yoram Dvash, president of IDE. JNA 12 JAN 2018
NEWS Provocative Ultra Violet named PANTONE COLOUR OF 2018 Inventive and imaginative, the rich purple shade Ultra Violet was chosen as the Pantone Color of the Year for 2018, according to the Pantone Color Institute. A dramatically provocative and thoughtful purple shade, Ultra Violet communicates originality, ingenuity and visionary thinking that point towards the future, the institute said. We are living in a time that requires inventiveness and imagination. It is this kind of creative inspiration that is indigenous to Ultra Violet, a blue-based purple that takes our awareness and potential to a higher level, said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. From exploring new technologies and the greater galaxy to artistic expression and spiritual reflection, intuitive Ultra Violet lights the way to what is yet to come. The Pantone Color of the Year has come to mean so much more than what s trending in the world of design, added Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Color Institute. It s truly a reflection of what s needed in our world today, she continued. As individuals around the world become more fascinated with colour and realise its ability to convey deep messages and meanings, designers and brands should feel empowered to use colour to inspire and influence. The Color of the Year is one moment in time that provides strategic direction for the world of trend and design, reflecting the Pantone Color Institute s yearround work doing the same for designers and brands. QUALITY ASSURANCE seen to boost online jewellery purchases, says WGC Gold jewellery Efforts to enhance quality assurance in online jewellery purchases could provide further impetus to China s jewellery retail market, according to the World Gold Council (WGC). Aiming to remain relevant to consumers (especially young millennials, who are twice as likely to shop online as Chinese consumers in general), Chinese jewellers are eagerly venturing into the cyber retail space and trying to enhance quality assurance, the council said in its Gold Demand Trends Q3 2017 report. Alibaba, China s largest e-commerce platform, earlier reached an agreement with the National Gemstone Testing Center that all jewellery sold on Tmall and Taobao would carry its certification of quality, noted WGC, adding that major retailers such as Chow Tai Fook and CHJ are expected to be among the first to adopt this practice. The report further revealed that gold jewellery demand in mainland China during the third quarter of 2017 reached 159.3 tonnes, up 13 percent on a year-on-year basis after 10 consecutive quarters of decline. JNA 14 JAN 2018
FAIRS HAPPENINGS Simple designs dominate HKJMA FAIR A more upbeat sentiment prevailed at the 25 th Hong Kong International Jewelry Manufacturers Show in November last year, with jewellery pieces in simple yet trendy designs topping buyers lists. Counting on innovative marketing strategies, exhibitors are also anticipating steady growth in Hong Kong s jewellery sector in 2018. By Elmo Wong Visitors at the HKIJMS 2017 Jewellery pieces in modest yet fashionable designs were the stars of the 25 th Hong Kong International Jewelry Manufacturers Show (HKIJMS), which ran from November 30 to December 3 last year, according to a number of exhibitors. The four-day fair concluded on a positive note, with the show s organisers unveiling a new image to signal changes and innovations. Organised by the Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers Association, last year s edition was the largest show ever in the history of HKIJMS, attracting 15 percent more buyers compared to the previous year. More than 900 exhibitors from 26 countries showcased their goods through various zones, which included Vintage and Refurbished Jewelry, Silver and Fashion Jewelry, Synthetic Diamond, Italy, Sri Lanka and Myanmar Pavilions. A special Bridal Jewellery Gallery was also set up at the fair. Top buys According to exhibitors interviewed by JNA, diamond jewellery pieces were among the most sought-after products at the show, followed by pearl and jadeite jewellery. Buyers were partial to subdued designs with a more modern twist as opposed to pieces with an elaborate and sophisticated look. Consumers are on the lookout for simple and chic designs. Mono-diamond jewellery pieces were the bestselling items at this show, disclosed Colman Cheung, sales and marketing manager of Dai Sun Jewellery Co Ltd. Colman, interviewed on the second day of the show, added that due to unstable market sentiments in recent years, jewellers are adopting a purchasing strategy that is more attuned to market trends. Round and oval-cut diamond jewellery will likely move fast in 2018, according to the company official. Millennials, meanwhile, are likewise dictating movements in the jewellery market. Young consumers spending power is not on a par with existing customers so products with complicated designs are not on their list. In contrast, they opt for simple and edgy items, particularly silver jewellery. With an increasing number of young consumers, it is expected that plainer designs would become more mainstream this year, remarked Kenny Chan, director of PIN (Hong Kong) Ltd. JNA 16 JAN 2018
SPECIAL FEATURES TURKEY retains edge in global jewellery scene Turkish manufacturers remain a force to be reckoned with in the international jewellery market. Armed with a rich jewellery-making legacy and innovative spirit, Turkish jewellers are once again out to dazzle the world in 2018 as they move to further expand their global foothold through modernisation. By Bernardette Sto. Domingo Fuelled by solid sales in the gold jewellery sector, the Turkish jewellery industry stood its ground amid economic and political uncertainties in 2017. It also recorded sustained growth in the silver jewellery and jewellery mounting segments, while its loose diamond and diamond jewellery business started to gain steam in the market. Data from the Jewellery Exporters Association of Turkey or JTR showed that jewellery exports from January to November last year had already reached more than US$3 billion. This positive momentum also prevailed at the October 2017 Istanbul Jewelry Show a yardstick to help measure the industry s strength. Sirzat Akbulak, a manager at JTR, revealed that last year s show was an improvement on the 2016 edition in terms of buyer quality and volume. There s a good volume of people who visited the show. It was busy and crowded with a good mix of buyers, noted Akbulak. We organised buyer missions from South America, North Africa and Malaysia, among others. We also arranged B2B meetings for them. It s refreshing to provide a variety of clients and alternative markets for the jewellery industry. Apart from a thriving local market, Turkey also exports to the Middle East, the US, Europe and Asia. Our most sought-after products are still plain gold jewellery, followed by silver and diamond jewellery. The diamond sector is quite promising, the JTR official added. JNA 18 JAN 2018
SPECIAL FEATURES Developments Akbulak cited the ease of doing business in Turkey as a crucial factor in the jewellery industry s growth. The lifting of a special consumption tax on loose diamond imports in 2015 paved the way for a stronger loose diamond trade while other regulatory reforms made it easier for companies to set up shop in Turkey. In the World Bank s Ease of Doing Business Report 2018, Turkey moved a few notches up to rank 60 due to improvements in registering properties and access to credit. According to Akbulak, the gold and diamond sectors are benefitting from such reforms since these are attracting more investors. It s easier to do business in Turkey, and this is opening up new opportunities for the jewellery sector. Turkey is a rising jewellery hub, he noted. In line with these developments, the jewellery industry also launched a fresh marketing and promotional campaign: Jewellery = Turkey. The new slogan capitalises on Turkey s illustrious history in jewellery making, which dates back to 5000 BC, as well as Turkish jewellers ability to quickly adapt to the times. We also started a social media campaign on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook to promote our new slogan. This is a novel approach. The industry is going digital, which means opportunities are limitless. We can t keep doing things traditionally. The time for change is here, noted Akbulak. In a separate interview, Ali Ramazan Santo, general secretary of the Istanbul Chamber of Jewelry (IKO), said Turkey offers buyers a unique combination of manufacturing know-how and modern business strategies. The 3,000-strong organisation opened the IKO Jewelry Centre, which conducts training sessions on gemstone-cutting, and an IKO gemmological laboratory last year. Both services were set up in collaboration with the Istanbul Development Agency. The lab, which is Turkey s first domestic gemmological institute, is currently awaiting ISO accreditation, according to Santo. Turkish jewellers are able to produce orders fast and on time. We also offer a massive portfolio of products in various designs from traditional, Ottoman-inspired pieces to contemporary styles. Labour cost is cheaper here too, but the quality of the product remains high, remarked the IKO official. Our government also offers incentives for exporters. This year, all chambers of jewellery in major cities such as Istanbul and Ankara, among others, will be housed under one unified body, according to Santo. Every city has a different chamber of jewellery. Our plan will allow members to hold frequent meetings throughout the year as part of an umbrella organisation in order to discuss major issues in the jewellery sector, he added. Gold bangle and bracelet by Arpas AS JNA 19 JAN 2018
SPECIAL FEATURES Gold bangles Expertise Business was stable for Arpas AS in 2017, said the company s regional marketing manager Mahir Heybeli, who noted that the local market showed slight signs of improvement compared to previous years. Buyers are more confident this time around compared to 2016. People felt safer since the political situation is starting to stabilise, he said in a separate interview. Arpas exports to 79 countries including the US and Europe its best-performing markets Russia, Asia and the Middle East. It also has a customer base in emerging markets in the Far East such as the Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia. These markets, however, have recently slowed down. The jeweller specialises in lightweight and commercial products. Its fastest-moving items are 14-karat to 18-karat gold jewellery at competitive prices. We are focusing on European buyers at the moment since business is weak in some emerging markets. This is the advantage of having a diverse customer portfolio, noted Heybeli. Asian buyers prefer lightweight and sparkling gold jewellery pieces, which is why the diamond cut is popular with them, he added. American and European clients, meanwhile, are partial to lightweight, polished products that are less shiny. Heybeli said jewellers are wary of a number of factors that could affect the business such as gold prices and currency fluctuations in 2018. If the US dollar continues to strengthen, emerging markets will import less. But we remain optimistic about prospects this year. We will continue to produce new items and invest in various initiatives to keep our inventory fresh, he stated. A buyer inspects goods on the show floor Emeralds from Ediz Dereli JNA 20 JAN 2018
SPECIAL FEATURES A crowd of buyers at the Istanbul Jewelry Show October 2017 Diversified portfolio Ediz Dereli, founder of his eponymous gemstone trading company, underscored the need to diversify to thrive in an ever-changing jewellery and gemstone business landscape. In April last year, Ediz Dereli embarked on a diamond wholesale business, selling smaller-sized stones of up to 70 pointers. There was a lack of interest in coloured gemstones in the last two years. Mid-range products are still selling but the upper-range items seldom move. That s why we decided to expand our offerings to include smaller-sized diamonds. Our aim is to be experts in this category, revealed Dereli. The company has since found new domestic customers that purchase both diamonds and coloured gemstones. Among Dereli s best-performing coloured gemstones are perennial favourites such as sapphires, emeralds, rubies and tanzanite stones. He also cited several challenges faced by jewellers in Turkey today, the most pressing of which is competing with technology and other big-ticket sectors for buyers attention. Instead of buying a US$1,000 piece of jewellery, buyers would rather spend on the latest smartphone or perhaps, travel to another country. Buyers ever-evolving hobbies and interests, coupled with geopolitical events, are affecting our business, noted Dereli. While some companies close down and move to other sectors, we stayed on because we believe in our sector. Through product diversification, we were able to turn things around. Ediz Dereli mainly caters to the domestic market but it also sells to Russia, the Middle East and Asia. Our goals in 2018 are to further develop our diamond business and increase penetration in the domestic market, continued Dereli. For Muhammed Kannouss, regional manager of Ipekyolu Jewellery, the key to staying afloat in a challenging business environment is to keep innovating. An expert in the Turkish silver jewellery sector, Ipekyolu registered steady growth last year compared to 2016. It sells to 95 countries, with Russia, the US, South America, Europe, the Middle East and Asia as its major markets. We have been in the industry for four decades. This year, we are aiming to grow even more. We can still feel the effects of the global crisis but to combat that, the company continues to find ways to refine its business operations. We always offer new products and designs. We ll never stop innovating, said Kannouss. JNA 21 JAN 2018
SHOWCASE EXOTIC FANTASIES Step into a world of enigma and glamour with these natureinspired fine jewellery pieces that celebrate gardens and iconic flowers. An enthralling tribute to Mother Nature, these jewels are adorned with beauteous gemstones in rich reds and blues, and capricious pinks that flow in complete harmony with each other. The natural world takes a more tangible and sophisticated form in these bespoke rings, bracelets and earrings. Art Direction & Styling: Irene Foo Styling Assistant: Tingo Ko Jewellery: Wendy Yue Model: Ann Ev (Primo) Make-up: Li Li Hair: Po Lam Photography: Kim Ham JNA 22 JAN 2018
SHOWCASE Ring: Rhodolite garnet, rubellites, rubies, pink sapphires and black diamonds Earrings: Pink sapphires, rubellites, rubies and black diamonds JNA 23 JAN 2018
SHOWCASE Earrings and ring: Rutilated quartz, diamonds, tsavorites and orange sapphires JNA 24 JAN 2018
SHOWCASE Bracelet: Corals, fancy colour diamonds, fancy sapphires, ruby and rubellite Ring: Corals, fancy colour diamonds, fancy sapphires, tsavorites, ruby and rubellite JNA 25 JAN 2018
SHOWCASE JNA 26 JAN 2018
SHOWCASE Bracelet: Pink and brown sapphires, rubellite, tsavorites and diamonds Ring: Pink sapphires, diamonds, tsavorites, rubellites and amethysts JNA 27 JAN 2018
INSIGHT Chinese actor Yang Yang, spokesperson for platinum in China PLATINUM 2018 Falling platinum prices and slower demand for platinum in auto-catalysts, as well as in the largest jewellery market of China, have exerted downward pressure on the profitability of the platinum mining industry in recent years. To encourage more funding to boost demand in jewellery, PGI CEO Huw Daniel has implemented various strategies across PGI s markets, including relocating the organisation s headquarters from London to Hong Kong. In an exclusive interview with JNA, Daniel shares his insights on the world s platinum jewellery market as well as his priorities for 2018. By Christie Dang According to a report by SFA (Oxford) Ltd for the World Platinum Investment Council (WPIC), global demand for platinum jewellery is projected to rise by 3 percent in 2018 to reach 2.655 million ounces. This would be the first annual increase since 2014. Demand for platinum jewellery in China is expected to stabilise, and strong growth is likely to be seen in all other regions. Against this backdrop, Huw Daniel, CEO of the Platinum Guild International (PGI) is adopting a positive outlook on the global platinum jewellery market in 2018. To establish closer proximity to the Asian market and gain better insight into market opportunities across the region, PGI moved its global headquarters from London to Hong Kong in July 2015. The move allows for more frequent touchpoints between headquarters and the major markets, which help improve mutual understanding, faster knowledge transfer and collaboration. It also enables a swifter response to fast-changing consumer tastes, as well as to our industry partners needs, explained Daniel. Huw Daniel, CEO of Platinum Guild International JNA 28 JAN 2018
INSIGHT PGI s support from the South African mining community has increased from three major mining companies to six in 2018, despite the financial challenges arising from record-low platinum prices, he said. Jewellery provides a compelling ROI of US$57 per ounce, and the South African mining industry remains committed to jewellery development. Currently, jewellery is second only to automobile in demand for platinum, and is highly responsive to market stimulation, Daniel said. Global Strategies According to Daniel, PGI s strategic approach is to add value to the jewellery industry by identifying and fulfilling opportunities for sustainable ounce and revenue growth. For the jewellery industry, this means incremental opportunities to target new customers at higher margins, whereas for consumers, new platinum jewellery products and buying occasions will be encouraged in different markets, he said. PGI s focus in 2018 CHINA JAPAN INDIA US Enhance promotions for both wedding and post-wedding markets Strengthen 60+ market and exports of platinum chain-based jewellery to the US Promote Platinum Days of Love, Platinum Evara and men s jewellery Establish the platinum crown as the safest setting for a gemstone, and facilitate jewellery imports China Although total platinum demand was still down in 2017, the rate of decline has slowed and many of PGI s partners have returned to growth. According to Daniel, the decline in platinum jewellery demand was driven by generic plain metal jewellery that is increasingly out of sync with a more sophisticated Chinese mainland consumer. Areas within the business that show strong growth and future potential include the bridal market, both plain and gem-set pair rings and sets. Demand for men s bridal jewellery has grown as PGI marketing closed the gap between female and male acquisition. Strongest market growth came from tier-two and tier-three cities, registering 106 percent and 86 percent growth respectively. The acquisition rate of gem-set jewellery increased by 13 percentage points to 35 percent of annual sales of platinum jewellery. This gives platinum a larger proportionate share of gem-set items compared to the total jewellery market, where gem-set accounts for only 19 percent of annual sales. The launch of branded collections by retailers attracted significant growth rates up to 100 percent, signifying the tremendous potential for higher-value and more sophisticated products among consumers in China. As a result of stronger demand for more design-driven and branded collections, retailers are rethinking their pricing strategies, transitioning to piece-priced collections which boost margins. This enables the development of better design and marketing campaigns, driving a virtuous circle of growth through innovative marketing. The uptake of PGI s celebrity-driven marketing packages, the appointment of a popular local star, Yang Yang, as the spokesperson for platinum in China, and the launch of an iconic dandelion collection, boosted sales volumes among participating retailers. To further encourage manufacturers in China to produce more platinum jewellery, PGI has organised seminars in the country s key manufacturing centre, Shenzhen, addressing technical issues such as applications of platinum alloys to further improve the efficiency of production. Diamond ring set with a platinum crown for the US market and China Pt Dandelion necklace JNA 29 JAN 2018
INSIGHT Japan Japan is the world s most mature platinum market which PGI entered in 1975. Platinum jewellery accounts for over half of total jewellery sales by value and over 20 percent by unit sales, and Japan has the highest per capita consumption of platinum jewellery. However, demographic trends have depressed total jewellery sales in recent years. To capitalise on Japan s leading position in the world s platinum industry, PGI started a new project to facilitate the export of chain-based jewellery to US-based retailers. Our Japan and US teams have been working on this for over a year. We have curated a 20+ piece collection of chain-based jewellery, primarily necklaces and earrings. We are market-testing branded collections with selected retailers and the collection will be showcased at the upcoming Centurion Jewellery Show in Scottsdale, Arizona in February, Daniel said. The response we ve had from both trade and consumers has been incredible, because there is simply nothing like this product in the US today, he added. Another focus is to encourage jewellers to produce and promote more lower-price assortments in platinum for the younger-generation Japanese consumer, in order to expand the country s platinum market beyond the already strong segment of mature customers aged 60 and above. Jewellery provides a compelling ROI of US$57 per ounce, and PGI s sponsors from the South African mining industry are more committed than ever to jewellery development. Currently, jewellery is second only to automobiles in demand for platinum. Huw Daniel, CEO, PGI India After a challenging 2016, when the market suffered major disruptions from floods, government legislation and strikes, platinum demand in India has rebounded. Platinum was the best-performing jewellery category in 2017, growing 25 percent after an 11 percent increase in 2016. An increasing number of jewellery manufacturers experience the advantage of promoting platinum jewellery as it delivers higher margins as well as more development opportunities among young consumers, who demand more modern and design-oriented jewellery. According to Daniel, "Platinum Days of Love," which features love bands exchanged before or after the wedding day, and "Platinum Evara" that focuses on contemporary wedding jewellery exchanged as a blessing, are PGI s continued focus this year. In India, where arranged marriages are a cultural norm, most jewellery items exchanged during the wedding represent the transfer of wealth between families, and have little emotional resonance for the couple. However, Platinum Days of Love and Platinum Love Bands are now strongly associated with the discovery of love between the couple, especially as love matches within arranged marriages become the norm among urban consumers. PGI s new campaign focuses on how the bride and bridegroom-to-be discover their love for each other as they go about organising their wedding day, capturing this JNA 30 JAN 2018
INSIGHT The 'Platinum Evara' set capitalises on the Indian tradition of families bestowing blessings on the newlywed couple special moment with the exchange of their very own Platinum Love Bands. Platinum is now more strongly associated with love than any other precious metal, or even diamonds, in the fast-growing Indian jewellery market. For platinum to play a significant role in the Indian jewellery industry it needed a place in the wedding market, traditionally dominated by gold. PGI s Platinum Evara introduces a new tradition of blessings between the mother of the bride and the bride and bridegroom. The jewellery is affordably price-pointed and contemporary in design, making it both desirable and wearable long after the wedding celebrations have finished. Given the growing importance of the millennial generation and the better margins platinum delivers to the industry in India, Daniel is confident of a positive future for platinum in the country. US The US market is in its fifth year of consecutive growth, thanks to the lower platinum price making the desirable metal more available across retailers. In the world s largest diamond market, diamonds and platinum make a natural fit. Citing a PGI research, Daniel said, Only 38 percent of consumers know that platinum is a more secure setting for diamonds, and less than 30 percent know that they could have a platinum head on their ring, regardless of what metal the ring is made of. Once they were made aware of this, a whopping 73 percent said they are willing to pay more for their peace of mind. In light of this business opportunity, PGI s Diamond Crown marketing initiative encourages retailers to upsell customers to a platinum crown for their diamond ring. By doing so, the retailer could make an average of US$350 more per sale. If we could convert the head of every diamond ring to platinum, that would deliver an incremental 150,000 ounces of platinum, equal to almost half of the size of the US platinum market, so it s a significant business opportunity, Daniel noted. The dilemma of retailers these days is having fewer consumers in their stores. This programme allows retailers to maximise the business value of every purchase, making it a significant profit driver, he added. JNA 31 JAN 2018
INSIGHT GEM PROJECTIONS Changes in consumer profiles and expectations are having a profound impact on the coloured gemstone sector. Catering to these new requirements entails industry collaboration and compliance on issues of transparency and sustainability, according to Clement Sabbagh, president of the International Colored Gemstone Association. By Olivia Quiniquini The rise of the millennial consumer along with growing market clamour for supply chain transparency, sustainability and social responsibility are among the issues reshaping the coloured gemstone landscape, according to Clement Sabbagh, the new president of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA). The director of Brazilian coloured gemstone specialist Ben Sabbagh Bros officially started his two-year term at the helm of ICA at the association s Annual Congress in Jaipur, India last November. In an interview with JNA, he disclosed the pressing issues facing the coloured gemstone sector and presented his outlook on the industry. Millennial patterns Aside from promoting demand for coloured gemstones, one of Sabbagh s top priorities at ICA is helping the industry adjust to new market behaviours. Consumers traditionally purchased products directly from jewellers and specialty houses. The age of the Internet has however ushered in a new type of consumer, one armed with more information about the market and with broader access to offers, Sabbagh noted. Clement Sabbagh, president of the International Colored Gemstone Association JNA 32 JAN 2018
INSIGHT Millennials place great emphasis on the credibility of their purchases and expect full disclosure on the products they buy. The industry should therefore provide the information consumers need to bolster their confidence in their purchases. This warrants the formulation of a uniform language and standard terminology among manufacturers, laboratories, the academe and educational institutions about the industry and its products, he explained. Provenance also increasingly influences purchase decisions of consumers nowadays. To millennials, a gemstone s origin not only connotes its quality and value but also tells the tale of its unique journey from mine to market, Sabbagh pointed out. This serves to once again reassure consumers of the validity of their purchase, he added. Providing this information however comes with its own set of challenges as the coloured gemstone sector is highly fragmented. So many different species of gems with a multitude of colours are produced in 47 different countries. Over 50 percent of this production comes from artisanal and small-scale miners (ASMs). Gemstones from ASM-operated deposits take multiple paths before reaching the dealers, let alone the consumers, making it difficult to determine exact provenance in some cases, he remarked. With consumers and the big luxury brands also demanding more transparency, accountability and sustainability from their suppliers, the ICA, as the legitimate representative of the international gemstone community, and all players in the supply chain should unite and cooperate to bring about the desired results of compliance and ethical practices, Sabbagh added. Millennials place great emphasis on the credibility of their purchases and expect full disclosure on the products they buy. The industry should therefore provide the information consumers need to bolster their confidence in their purchases. Great expectations Looking ahead, Sabbagh is upbeat on business prospects for coloured gemstones this year, noting that sales in all markets have been on the rise since the third quarter of 2017. China is once again showing signs of activity, following a significant reduction in purchases in the last four years. Smaller stones are moving well among buyers from the mainland, the ICA official noted. Demand is robust for large, no-oil emeralds and top-quality unheated rubies with the proper certificates. Tanzanite, which has been popular in China the last two years, is also projected to continue its stellar run. The US is likewise showing much promise, according to Sabbagh. The US market, with its new economic dynamics, has regained its appetite for all types of stones. It is also more accommodating of colours such as purple and yellow, which do not move that well in other markets, he said. Over in Europe, buyers are increasing their intake of tourmalines. Paraiba tourmaline is particularly favoured, with the market willing to pay a substantial premium for stones from Paraiba, Brazil. In terms of colours, green stones have been in favour, with demand for emeralds skyrocketing and peridot and demantoid garnets rebounding strongly. Blues remain perennial favourites with Paraiba tourmaline and top-colour sapphires leading the charge. Red and pink spinels as well as rubies are moving well too. With Pantone s recent announcement of Ultra Violet as the Colour of 2018, we expect a strong increase in demand for purple gemstones in all denominations, Sabbagh added. JNA 33 JAN 2018
FRONTLINE Stand out Step up Winning the favour of celebrities and Hollywood elites, Stefere has grown in popularity in Europe and the US in the last few years. Capitalising on the momentum, the fast-growing French jewellery brand is expanding its presence in high-end department stores worldwide instead of opening mono-brand boutiques. By Sze Man Young Translated by Elmo Wong Corina Mihaila Larpin, founder and creative designer of Stefere JNA 34 JAN 2018
FRONTLINE With knowledge comes expectation this rings true for consumers when purchasing jewellery. The market nowadays gravitates towards jewellery pieces with unique designs that convey distinctive emotions to wear with different outfits for various occasions. French brand Stefere is known for its edgy yet glamorous contemporary jewellery pieces with Rock n Roll elements. Offering eye-catching designs and various styling options, Stefere s one-of-akind jewellery creations are contemporary art pieces that never fail to delight. The brand s edgy designs have caught the attention and affection of celebrities such as Adele, Janet Jackson, Madonna and Victoria Beckham, among others. These A-list stars have boosted Stefere s reputation in the British and American fashion and lifestyle worlds. Despite this impressive following, the brand does not intend to go into retail itself, opting instead to build a presence in department stores around the world. Jewellery design is what I am good at. Others are experts at running department stores and marketing. I would rather focus on creating designs than spend time managing a boutique, said Corina Mihaila Larpin, founder and creative designer of Stefere. The brand, in fact, got started in the US retail scene on the invitation of Saks Fifth Avenue. Stefere continued to tap department stores for retail expansion and now has points of sale all over the US. Apart from luxury department stores, Stefere s jewellery is available on two online platforms: Moda Operandi and JewelStreet. According to Larpin, she often receives enquiries on Instagram on where to purchase the brand s jewellery, especially the pieces that have been worn by celebrities. This indicated that exploring and expanding our business through online platforms to allow consumers around the world to buy our jewellery in different channels should be given top priority, she noted. Growth ambitions Over the past two years, Stefere has grown exponentially, establishing points of sale in the world s major jewellery markets, particularly the US. Larpin said, Our rapid growth has been surprising, unexpected and pleasant. We will have six new shop-in-shops in Saks Fifth Avenue this year. Asia is of particular interest to Stefere, which has taken its first step towards making a name for itself in the region by getting into Lane Crawford in Hong Kong. According to Larpin, Stefere chose Hong Kong for its Asian debut as the city is a pivotal market for success in the luxury world, and Lane Crawford epitomises its penchant for luxury goods. While many big companies and brands are directing their marketing efforts towards China, Larpin finds the business environment on the mainland to be too complicated, with stringent tax regulations being the greatest hindrance. Developing the Asian market is our chief mission. We are connecting with partners and building our network in the region. Besides having a presence in Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, we are also targeting Japan, Korea and Thailand. For the time being, clients from these countries mainly purchase our jewellery online. We are therefore placing emphasis on online marketing this year and are going to partner with more platforms online to boost sales in the Asian market, she said. Stefere also plans to further grow its existing markets, launch new projects in the US, and explore opportunities in the Middle East and Eastern Europe. The brand aims to open at least 20 points of sale this year, said Larpin. JNA 35 JAN 2018
BRANDS BULGARI and the art of fine jewellery making Luxury brand Bulgari embraces its destiny in the modern world as a legendary jewellery house and a staunch supporter of the arts and humanitarian causes. By Esther Ligthart Bejewelled Serpenti watch Bulgari s profound influence on the global fine jewellery industry remains irrefutable. For centuries, the Italian jewellery brand, founded in Rome in 1884, has given birth to legendary pieces that redefined opulence and established enduring styles. Among its most iconic collections is Serpenti, which made its debut in the 1940s with the first Serpenti jewel a snake watch that coiled the wrist while keeping time in its jaws. This collection has been reimagined and enriched from time to time to include more contemporary pieces, showcasing the maison s resilient and ingenious nature. Another highly coveted collection is B.zero1, which pays homage to Bulgari s Roman heritage. Designed with the Colosseum in mind, the signature B.zero1 ring features sharp curves, fluid geometric lines and a Bulgari logo. Over the years, the jeweller remained true to its Italian origins even after its acquisition by French luxury conglomerate LVMH in 2011. JNA 36 JAN 2018
BRANDS Artistic connection Bulgari has taken its role as patron of the arts, which is a constant source of inspiration for many of its beloved pieces, very seriously. In celebration of its 130 th anniversary, the group financed the restoration of the steps that lead from the Piazza di Spagna to the Church of the Trinità dei Monti. According to Bulgari, this gesture was intended as a genuine tribute to the city of Rome. Most recently, the jeweller also played a major part in the restoration of two stolen Van Gogh paintings, which were recovered in 2016. At an event celebrating the paintings homecoming in Amsterdam in November last year, Lelio Gavazza, Bulgari s managing director for EMEA, underscored Bulgari s indelible connection with art. He explained that jewellery making is interminably connected to the world of art since both disciplines employ creativity in design and precise execution. Perhaps it is this unique predisposition to all things artistic that made Bulgari the jeweller of choice by highprofile individuals. Colourful, vibrant and bold jewellery pieces have captured the hearts of notable influencers before the rise of the Internet: Hollywood stars, led by legendary actress Elizabeth Taylor. Sapphire, ruby and diamond necklace from Bulgari s New York Collection Diversification In order to grow and diversify, the company started exploring opportunities in the watch industry through the acquisition of Swiss luxury watch manufacturers Gerald Genta SA and Daniel Roth SA in 2000. In 2004, it inked a joint venture agreement with the Leviev Group in a bid to further develop Bulgari s diamond jewellery business. In 2011, LVMH purchased Bulgari for US$5.2 billion a move that proved beneficial to both parties. Over time, the market has witnessed how Bulgari profited extensively from the expertise and global retail network of LVMH, while preserving its Italian roots. Serpenti bracelet in white gold with corals, lapis lazuli and diamonds JNA 37 JAN 2018
BRANDS B.zero1 ring in 18-karat pink gold with pavé diamonds and Monete bracelet in 18-karat rose gold E-commerce Bulgari tried its hand at online business in 2009. However, it only started to fully embrace the potential of e-commerce in 2017 with the opening of its first virtual stores in the US and Japan. According to Bulgari, its decision to focus more on its digital operations was inspired by its commitment to better serve its clients, particularly those who don t have easy access to physical boutiques. Tapping into the immediate desire of the client is crucial because losing the momentum could result in the buyer rethinking and postponing his or her purchase. Making it a smooth shopping experience is key to increasing online sales, revealed the company. Listening to clients, and investing in new production techniques and collections were instrumental in Bulgari s 2017 performance. From January to September last year, LVMH s watches and jewellery group recorded a 13 percent growth in revenues, mainly driven by Bulgari. Bulgari s remarkable performance was fuelled by the rapid growth of its signature collections Serpenti, Diva and B.zero1, noted LVMH. Bracelet from the New York Collection Bulgari New York necklace in 18-karat rose gold with a silver coin, corals, lapis lazuli and pavé diamonds Future of jewellery In March 2017, Bulgari opened a new, state-ofthe-art factory in Valenza. According to the jeweller, the structure was built with innovative technologies and materials with a low environmental impact. Bulgari is eyeing to achieve a LEED certification for the facility. Throughout the year, the brand has reinvented and relaunched some of its classic collections such as B.zero1 and Divas Dream to include jewellery pieces in more vivid hues and modern styles. The new, edgier designs are meant to embody the woman of today graceful and refined, yet bold and carefree, revealed Bulgari. It also devoted its efforts to corporate social responsibility initiatives with the Save the Children project. Its latest campaign, #RaiseYourHand, is backed by a roster of celebrities and has since raised US$50 million through sales of Bulgari s luxury jewellery pieces. These donations have reached one million beneficiaries in 33 countries across five continents, in areas where natural disasters, wars, conflict, marginalisation, disability and poverty can hinder the right to education and a better future, according to Bulgari. The brand s growth strategy is clear: Embrace the future and cherish the roots of its past by nurturing the unbreakable bond between humanity and the arts. JNA 38 JAN 2018
DESIGN INSPIRED CREATIONS Taiwanese jewellery designer Rachel Wen established her jewellery brand Chara Wen about 15 years ago as homage to an infinite love for her daughter. Through her jewellery, Wen channels love and blessings to the people around her; her creations exuding joy and the beauty of life. By Christie Dang Ring from the Black Collection Jewellery watch from the Classic Collection JNA: Why did you choose Chara Wen as the name of your brand? Rachel Wen: It all started with the concept of the gift of love. Creating jewellery delights me, and the love of beauty is deeply embedded in my heart. Chara means joy, and Wen is my name. One way of expressing my wholehearted love for my daughter is by designing bespoke jewellery pieces. I wish that she could pass on this happiness and appreciation for life to everyone around her. JNA: What makes a Chara Wen jewellery piece unique? Wen: Each piece of jewellery under my brand carries a heart-shaped ruby. Heart represents all good things, and red is the symbol of love. A passionate heart is the best gift one can bestow on their families, lovers and friends. Every time we present a piece of jewellery to our customers, we also include with it a sincere offering of love and gratitude from our hearts. JNA 40 JAN 2018
DESIGN JNA: How did you start your journey in the creative world? Wen: My daughter has been a constant source of inspiration and bliss for me. I decided to design jewellery to immortalise that joy and to share with the world the overwhelming love I have for my daughter. I have always been fond of all things beautiful, trendy and fashionable. I was always on the lookout for jewellery pieces that suit me but I never found anything that could fulfil my need so I decided to create my own. I took up gemmological courses and jewellery design classes at the Gemological Institute of America in Taiwan. I eventually found my niche and developed my own style in designing jewellery. JNA: Personalised designs are becoming popular. Do you see greater business opportunities because of this? Wen: Yes. In fact, this is in line with my philosophy of creating something exceptional to truly represent an individual. All women are beautiful in their own right; a woman should own jewellery pieces that demonstrate her unique personality, taste, vision and style. For this reason, almost all Chara Wen designs are one-off because each woman is different. My customers are from all over the world Europe, Hong Kong, mainland China, and Taiwan. I hope to reach out to more women in other countries and regions. 'Gift of Love diamond ring with a heart-shaped emerald centre stone Earth Collection plum blossom brooch Rachel Wen, founder and creative director of Chara Wen JNA: Tell us more about the four collections under your brand. Wen: Gift of Love, which is the signature collection of Chara Wen, is the foundation of our brand. Ribbons are the prominent feature of this collection. The Classic Collection, meanwhile, is inspired by the Art Deco era. Elegant and artistic designs are the key elements of the collection but we added a modern touch to showcase the timeless allure of my designs. The Earth Collection, for its part, pays tribute to the grandeur of nature. I think all jewellery brands should carry such a theme one way or another. Natural materials are featured in this collection to celebrate the majestic beauty of Mother Earth. Last but not the least, the Fashion Muse collection includes trendy pieces that resonate with my inner fashionista. This is a collection of pieces that simulate the look and feel of fashion design elements like ruffles and feathers. This is my way of actualising my childhood dream of becoming a fashion designer. JNA 41 JAN 2018
DESIGN SHINING LIGHT ON YOUNG AFRICAN TALENT The De Beers Group s southern African design competition helps nurture talent in diamond-producing countries by providing a platform for emerging jewellery designers to showcase their skills. Winners of the 2016/17 edition pay tribute to their environs in their captivating designs illustrating the beauty of nature. By Olivia Quiniquini Three promising jewellery designers from Africa have been cast into the limelight and are poised to receive opportunities on the global stage after winning the 2016/17 Shining Light Awards. Part of the De Beers Young Jewellery Designers Skills Development Initiative, the southern African design competition recognises and celebrates emerging jewellery designers in Botswana, Namibia and South Africa by providing entrants with a valuable platform to build their careers in the jewellery design industry. Participants were required to design commercially viable jewellery collections that demonstrated an artistic interpretation of this year s theme, Protecting Nature s Beauty, which was chosen by Forevermark to highlight its commitment to biodiversity, conservation and sustainability. Three finalists from each of the three countries were selected from more than 130 participants for their outstanding jewellery designs and unique interpretation of the theme. The winners were announced at a special ceremony in Windhoek, Namibia last November. Diamond rings from the It Begins With Us collection of Richardlee Shoombe of Namibia JNA 42 JAN 2018
DESIGN Diamond bracelet from the 'Li-Phant' collection of Mbako Baraedi of Botswana Mbako Baraedi, a jewellery designer and manufacturer, bested finalists from Botswana with his Li-Phant collection, which embraces design elements from two of Africa s formidable Big Five animals. The collection is inspired by a lion s paw print, which symbolises power, and an elephant trunk, which curled around a diamond represents the bond between wildlife and diamonds, two natural resources requiring careful management. The first runner-up from Botswana was Tshepo Dithebele, while Gaone Caroline Otsile came in third. It Begins With Us, the winning entry from Namibia s Richardlee Shoombe, drew inspiration from the idea that human emotions can be a driving force for artistic expression and positive change, especially towards protecting nature. Shoombe, who enrolled at the age of 12 at the Arts Performance Centre in the mining town of Tsumeb, sees himself as a visual arts educator. The second and third prize winners from Namibia were Frans Uunona and Taleni Udeiko respectively. This year's theme - Protecting Nature's Beauty - was chosen by Forevermark to highlight its commitment to biodiversity, conservation and sustainability. Crowning Glory diamond earrings by Andile Mbeje of South Africa Diamond rings from the It Begins With Us collection of Richardlee Shoombe of Namibia Andile Mbeje, a student who aspires to work as a jewellery designer for an international company, took top honours for South Africa. His collection, Crowning Glory, was inspired by the country's Kudu or spiralhorned antelope. Omphile Sibanda and Gabrielle Lourens were named South Africa s first and second runners-up respectively. The three winners receive a 12-month apprenticeship at the Forevermark Design and Innovation Centre in Milan, Italy. First runners-up get a three-month internship at the same centre, while second runners-up will be enrolled in a jewellery skills development programme at a local university. Stephen Lussier, De Beers Group s executive vice president, marketing and Forevermark s CEO, said, Through the Shining Light Awards, Forevermark is pleased to support the careers and learning experiences of emerging jewellery designers from southern Africa and provide them with the opportunity to gain valuable insights into the global jewellery design industry by working alongside designers at one of the world s fastest-growing diamond brands. JNA 43 JAN 2018
INTELLIGENCE PEARL AUCTION REVELATIONS Auctions in Hong Kong and Tahiti reveal steady demand for good-quality pearls, with auction organisers reporting competitive bids and solid sales. By Sze Man Young Translated by Elmo Wong The pearl market is undergoing a sea of change. Due to encouraging growth from China, strong demand for South Sea pearls and a slowdown in Tahitian pearl production, Hong Kong has cemented its position as a leading trading and distribution centre for pearls. In the city, pearl auctions are often scheduled alongside major international jewellery trade fairs. In recent years, the number of pearl auctions in Hong Kong has risen significantly, with the city sometimes hosting seven auctions in the same period of time. Rio Pearl s auction in Hong Kong last September offered a total of 530 lots of Myanmar South Sea pearls and Tahitian pearls. The sale featured 262 lots or 57,762 pieces of South Sea pearls and 268 lots or 149,307 pieces of Tahitian pearls. The pearl specialist was satisfied with the auction results, raking in US$5.78 million in total sales, with all lots being sold. Bids were higher and there were more competitive bids compared to our mid-year auction. This indicates that pearls are moving well in the market; buyers therefore have to increase their inventory to meet the demand, remarked Jonathan Cheng, director of Rio Pearl. The auction attracted more international buyers as it was held during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. There were also more pearl companies from Japan in attendance. The second half of the year is the golden period of the jewellery industry; it is also the best time to replenish inventory, noted Cheng. JNA 44 JAN 2018
INTELLIGENCE Rio Pearl hosts quarterly pearl auctions Thanks to current economic conditions and the popularity of online shopping, the market presently favours competitively priced jewellery, resulting in steady demand for small-sized pearls. Cheng pointed out that smaller Tahitian and golden South Sea pearls have been the best sellers at auctions in recent years. While pearl farms in both Tahiti and Myanmar can constantly produce large-sized pearls, small-sized pearls of 8mm to 10mm are in short supply. Small-sized yet high-quality South Sea and Tahitian pearls are the most sought after among buyers, particularly from Asian markets, he said. Prices of Tahitian pearls have been stable, especially for round, smooth and shiny pearls in black and peacock hues. As for lower-quality button and irregularly shaped pearls, prices have been relatively weak. In early 2016, the Tahitian government abolished the inspection of Tahitian pearls for export, which had previously ensured that all exported pearls had a nacre thickness of at least 0.8mm. Given the change in regulation, more pearls that fail to meet the previous thickness requirement are expected to reach the international market, further dragging down the price of lower-quality pearls. This makes purchasing good-quality Tahitian pearls from reputable pearl traders extremely crucial. In late July last year, the 19 th Rikitea Auction in Tahiti exceeded total pre-sale estimates by 26 percent. Auction organiser Dominique Devaux said the positive business sentiment for pearls at jewellery fairs in Hong Kong and Kobe helped boost total sales. Compared to auctions held in the same period in 2016, the average price of pearls sold increased by around 10 percent. It is difficult to find smooth and shiny pearls of high quality in the market. I believe the prices of these Tahitian pearls will rise even further, he said. Less than 2 percent of the pearls offered at the auction were unsold. Looking at the first three quarters of 2017, pearl prices were stable and the market remained keen on goodquality pearls. The number of pearl farms producing highquality pearls is however limited, and pearl production faces several uncertainties this year. The industry s response to the fall in production of Tahitian pearls and the high prices of South Sea pearls is expected to be a major issue in the pearl market this year. Small-sized yet high-quality South Sea and Tahitian pearls are the most sought after among buyers, particularly from Asian markets. Pearl traders from Japan and Hong Kong are regular and major buyers at auctions JNA 45 JAN 2018
TRENDS & STYLES Colourful CONNECTION Fun, flamboyant and spirited, these jewellery pieces in vivid hues and exceptional designs exude enjoyment and adventure. Start the year with a dash of colour and celebrate life in a whimsical garden of bliss and possibilities. Anabela Chan Aaron Basha Lydia Courteille AS29 JNA 46 JAN 2018
TRENDS & STYLES Lydia Courteille Lydia Courteille OH MY GOT Noudar Anabela Chan Wendy Yue JNA 47 JAN 2018
TRENDS & STYLES W hite MAGIC The charm of pure white and the dazzling allure of diamonds have captivated many jewellery connoisseurs for centuries. Transform your look from drab to fab with these sparkling diamond treasures. King Fook Jewellery Butani Gilan JNA 48 JAN 2018
TRENDS & STYLES Noudar Chanel Djula King Fook Jewellery Butani Tiffany & Co JNA 49 JAN 2018