Polymer Tool Box BASF Polymer portfolio for Skin Care
1 Polymers on the Skin Care Market 2 BASF Polymer portfolio: Description 3 Sensory of simplex formulations 4 Sensory of advanced formulations
1 Polymers on the Skin Care Market 2 BASF Polymer portfolio: Description 3 Sensory of simplex formulations 4 Sensory of advanced formulations 3
Polymers in Skin and Sun care Global GNPD search on polymer use in Skin and Sun Care # GNPD hits 3. 25. 2. 15. 1. 5. # GNPD hits including polymers and New Launches (1) (2) 26 27 28 29 21 211 212 213 Launches Launches With polymers inside High use of polymers in new launches (1) GNPD Global search; Skin Care includes face, body, sun, after sun, cleansing (face tonics, wipes, etc). Does not includes: make-up, deo. (2) Sun care: Polymers for water resistancy not included in calculation 4
Polymers used in Skin and Sun care Global GNPD search on polymer use in Skin and Sun Care # GNPD hits # GNPD hits per INCI (1) (2) 4.5 4. 3.5 3. 2.5 2. 1.5 1. 5 26 27 28 29 21 211 212 213 Carbomer Xanthan Gum Acrylates/C1-3 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Sodium Polyacrylate Cellulose Derivatives Top 3 INCIs ~75% of total GNPD hits on polymers (1) GNPD Global search; Skin Care includes face, body, sun, after sun, cleansing (face tonics, wipes,..). Does not includes: make-up, deo. (2) Cellulose Derivatives include several INCIs of cellulose derivatives. 5
Why are polymers used so widely? Polymers are widely used ingredients in Skin Care as they deliver: stable and predictable viscosity stability to emulsion sensory and texturizing effect This gives the chance to use most effective levels of other ingredients as classical thickeners (Fatty Alcohols -FAOH-, Waxes, etc.), emollients and emulsifiers to achieve best texture for its consumer. Advantages Used in aqueous or lipohilic phase Used mainly in O/W emulsion 2 or 3 polymers are often used together in emulsions Stabilize and/or emulsify lipophilic ingredients Suitable for cold process production Limitations Swells in water under definite ph conditions Often sensitive to electrolyte contents Thickening power is generally inverse to electrolyte tolerance Flexibility is the key for polymer success 6
Polymers interaction with emulsion components Class Emollients UV Filters Emulsifiers FAOH/Waxes Preservatives Active ingredients Water Interaction with Polymers Med/high polar emollients can be stabilized at high concentration (e.g.: esters) Low Polar emollients are more difficult to stabilize/emulsify (e.g.: Silicones) Oil soluble: additional oils to be stabilized Water soluble: electrolytes interfering with polymer TiO 2 : interaction with polymer brings cheese-like texture Dissociated emulsifiers decrease viscosity as electrolytes Associative polymers interact with lamellar structures increasing viscosity Can be electrolytes which influence viscosity Often need specific ph range Often contains electrolytes and influence polymer features or emulsion stability Can contain electrolytes 7
What is the ph of market Skin Care formulations? % of formulations 3 ph distribution of 7 formulations in Europe 25 2 15 1 5 4,5 4,8 5,1 5,4 5,7 6 6,3 6,6 6,9 7,2 7,5 7,8 ph Median: ph 5.8 Source: Analysis of cosmetic products launched in 213, international and local brands from France, Italy, Poland, Russia, Spain and Turkey, mass-market and selective premium market 8
1 Polymers on the Skin Care Market 2 BASF Polymer portfolio: Description 3 Sensory of simplex formulations 4 Sensory of advanced formulations 9
BASF polymer portfolio Topics FOCUS PRODUCTS Viscosity vs ph range Electrolyte tolerance Cosmedia SP Luvigel STAR AT 3 Tinovis ADE OTHER POLYMERS FOR SKIN CARE Cosmedia Ultragel 3 Cosmedia Triple C Emulsifying capability Sensory profile Tinovis GTC Rheocare HSP 118 Rheocare TTA Rheocare C Plus Rheocare XG 1
4 Pillars measurement criteria Viscosity vs ph value Viscosity vs ph range Electrolyte Tolerance Emulsifying Capability Sensory profile Viscosity (mpa s) 12 9 6 3 Polymer in water at 1% active matter (a.m.) Measurement conditions: Equipment: Brookfield (BRK), RVT, Helipath T types/ 1rpm Temperature: 25 C 2 4 6 8 1 ph 11
4 Pillars measurement criteria Electrolyte tolerance Viscosity vs ph range Electrolyte Tolerance Emulsifying Capability Sensory profile Viscosity (mpa s) 12 9 6 3 Polymer in water at 1% a.m. Step by step +.1% NaCl Measurement conditions: Equipment: BRK, RVT, Helipath T types/ 1rpm NaCl,1,2,3,4 (%),5 12
4 Pillars measurement criteria Emulsifying capability Viscosity vs ph range Electrolyte Tolerance Emulsifying Capability Sensory profile Oil load (%) 35 3 25 2 15 1 Polymer in water at variable a.m. depending on relevance ph selected in plateau range Step by step + 5% Standardized Emollient phase: Cetiol C5 Myritol 318 Cegesoft PS6 Ratio of 1:1:1 (Coco-Caprylate) (Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides) (Olus Oil) 5 13
4 Pillars measurement criteria Pillow Talk Viscosity vs ph range Electrolyte Tolerance Pillow Talk Test Method for polymer in water: 14 trained test persons of the expert panel (Internal) Done under supervision of the BASF «Performance team» Polymer active matter: variable. Air-conditioned room (temperature of 22 C, HR 4%) 1µl polymer dispersion is applied on the inside of the forearm and distributed Skin afterfeel sensation (2 s after drying ) was compared with 9 pillows made of different fabrics Emulsifying Capability Sensory profile Area of Care (Richness) Waxy Plush Powdery 12 9 6 3 Silky Velvety Soft Smooth Area of Elegance (Premium) Chalky Dry Area of Gentleness (Neutral) Hint: plush=soft/powdery/waxy chalky=dry/smooth/soft 14
BASF polymer portfolio Topics FOCUS PRODUCTS Viscosity vs ph range Electrolyte Tolerance Cosmedia SP Luvigel STAR AT 3 Tinovis ADE Emulsifying Capability Sensory profile Tinovis GTC Rheocare HSP 118 15
Cosmedia SP Sensorial
Cosmedia SP Product Profile INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate Appearance: off-white, free-flowing powder Active Polymer: > 88% China compliant: yes Preservative: none Stabilization of Oil Droplets Gel network Oil droplets Cosmedia SP Properties Anionic pre-neutralized homopolymer Improves formulation sensorics Emulsifying & suspending capabilities without additional emulsifier Suitable for cold processing Good thickening Can be added to water or oil phase 3D picture by Holotomography 17
Cosmedia SP Product Profile Viscosity (mpa s) 12. 9. Viscosity vs ph curve Cosmedia SP (1.% a.m.) 12. 9. Electrolyte tolerance Cosmedia SP (1. % a.m.), ph 6.5 Viscosity (mpa s) 6. 6. Cosmedia SP 3. 2 4 6 8 1 Emulsification capability with standardized emollient composition: Cetiol C5, Myritol 318, Cegesoft PS6 (Coco-caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Olus Oil) ph 3. % NaCl,,1,2,3,4,5,6 % Stabilized Oil phase 25 Synergies Cosmedia SP (1%) 18
Cosmedia SP Sensory Profile Silky Area of Elegance Velvety Cosmedia SP Waxy Powdery Plush 14 Silky 12 Velvety 1 8 6 4 2 Soft Smooth Soft 1.2% Cosmedia SP Chalky Dry Cosmedia SP has an elegant afterfeel and delivers silky and velvety sensory properties without any tackiness 19
Cosmedia SP Product Summary Cosmedia SP provides Exceptional sensorial profile with elegant afterfeel Cosmedia SP Emulsifying and suspending capabilities without additional emulsifier Good thickening Medium electrolyte tolerance Cosmedia SP in one word: Sensorial 2
Luvigel STAR AT 3 Wild card
Luvigel STAR AT 3 Product Profile INCI: Polyurethane-39 Appearance: Transparent and viscous liquid Active polymer: 2% China compliant: no Preservative: 1.2% mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Phenylpropanol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol and Tocopherol Luvigel STAR AT 3 Properties Non-ionic aqueous dispersion Associative thickener that interacts with structured hydrophobic ingredients in the formulation Influence on sensory properties of a formulation No neutralization or pre-swelling needed Suitable for cold processing Superstructure of connected micelles of HEUR thickener (hydrophobically modified ethoxylated urethanes) 22
Luvigel STAR AT 3 Sensory Profile Luvigel STAR AT 3 Waxy Plush Waxy Powdery Chalky Silky 14 12 1 8 6 4 2 Dry Velvety Soft Smooth Dry Soft.6% a.m. Luvigel STAR AT 3 Luvigel STAR AT 3 has a dry and an inherent waxy afterfeel. 23
Luvigel Star AT 3 Product Summary Luvigel Star AT 3 provides Best ph range and compatibility Luvigel STAR AT 3 Dry and inherent waxy afterfeel Associative thickener It can give a whiter and shinier aspect to formulations Luvigel Star AT 3 in one word: Wild Card
Tinovis ADE Neutral
Tinovis ADE Product Profile INCI: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, PPG-1 Trideceth-6 Appearance: off-white liquid dispersion Active Polymer: 5 55% China compliant: yes Preservative: none Tinovis ADE Properties Anionic pre-neutralized homopolymer Emulsifying & suspending capabilities without an additional emulsifier Performing thickener Suitable for cold processing Can be added at any stage of the process 26
Tinovis ADE Product Profile Tinovis ADE Viscosity (mpa s) 12. 1. 8. 6. 4. 2. Viscosity vs ph curve Tinovis ADE (1.% a.m.) ph 2 4 6 8 1 12 Emulsification capability with standardized emollient composition: Cetiol C5, Myritol 318, Cegesoft PS6 (Coco-caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Olus Oil) Viscosity (mpa s) 12. 1. 8. 6. 4. Electrolyte tolerance Tinovis ADE (1. % a.m.), ph 6.5 2. % NaCl,,1,2,3,4,5,6 Emulsifying capability Tinovis ADE (.5 % a.m.) % Stabilized oil phase 3 Tinovis ADE (.5 %) 27
Tinovis ADE Sensory Profile Waxy Plush Silky 14 12 1 8 6 4 2 Velvety Soft Velvety Tinovis ADE Powdery Chalky Dry Smooth Dry Smooth.5% a.m. Tinovis ADE (contains.5% Hydrogenated Polydecene) Tinovis ADE has a very dry and smooth afterfeel 28
Tinovis ADE Product Summary Tinovis ADE provides Highest emulsifying features at low polymer active matter High thickening power Tinovis ADE Thickening properties from ph 5.3 Driest afterfeel Tinovis ADE in one word: Neutral 29
Tinovis GTC Aqua sensation
Tinovis GTC UP Product Profile INCI: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer Appearance: off-white liquid emulsion Active Polymer: 28 3% China compliant: yes Preservative: unpreserved version Tinovis GTC Properties Anionic pre-neutralized polymer Forms transparent gels (at ph 6 and above) Emulsifying capabilities without additional emulsifier Good thickening Suitable for sprayable formulations Suspending effect Suitable for cold processing 31
Tinovis GTC UP Product Profile Tinovis GTC Viscosity (mpa s) 12. 1. 8. 6. 4. 2. Viscosity vs ph curve Tinovis GTC (1.% a.m.) ph 2 4 6 8 1 12 Emulsification capability with standardized emollient composition: Cetiol C5, Myritol 318, Cegesoft PS6 (Coco-caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Olus Oil) Viscosity (mpa s) 12. 1. 8. 6. 4. Electrolyte tolerance Tinovis GTC (1. % a.m.), ph 6.5 2. % NaCl,,1,2,3,4,5,6 Emulsifying capability Tinovis GTC (1. % a.m.) % Stabilized oil phase 3 Tinovis GTC (1 %) 32
Tinovis GTC UP Sensory Profile Silky Tinovis GTC Waxy Powdery Plush Silky 14 12 1 8 6 4 2 Velvety Soft Smooth Soft 1.% a.m. Tinovis GTC Chalky Dry Tinovis GTC shows a soft afterfeel with residual silky performance 33
Tinovis GTC UP Product Summary Tinovis GTC Residual electrolyte tolerance Aqua sensation during application and soft and silky afterfeel Tinovis GTC Good emulsifying properties Medium thickening features Suitable for transparent gels with suspending effect Suitable for sprayable formulations Tinovis GTC in one word: 34
Rheocare HSP 118 Lubricity
Rheocare HSP 118 Product Profile INCI: Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid Appearance: Clear viscous liquid solution Active Polymer: 14 18% China compliant: yes Preservative: none Rheocare HSP 118 Properties Anionic polymer Sensory modifier even in low concentrations Neutralization needed (AMP, NaOH, TEA Not suitable: Ca(OH) 2 or Mg(OH) 2 ) Strong polyelectrolyte with effect on viscosity Applicable at a broad ph range Deliver high lubricity 36
Rheocare HSP 118 Sensory Profile Rheocare HSP 118 Plush Plush Waxy Powdery Chalky Silky 14 12 1 8 6 4 2 Dry Velvety Soft Smooth Soft 1.% a.m. Rheocare HSP 118 Rheocare HSP 118 is a sensory modifier recommended to boost the lubricity during application and to impart a soft and plush afterfeel 37
Rheocare HSP 118 Product Summary Rheocare HSP 118 Sensory modifier even in low concentrations Rheocare HSP 118 Lubricity booster during application and soft and plush afterfeel Medium thickening power and good electrolyte stability Rheocare HSP 118 in one word: Lubricity
Summary Thickening capability vs ph range Thickening capability +++ 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 Rheocare C Plus (Carbomer) ph ++ Tinovis ADE + Cosmedia SP Tinovis GTC Luvigel Star AT 3 (1) o Rheocare HSP 118 (1) Thickening power of Luvigel Star AT 3 is strictly dependent on formulation composition 39
Summary Viscosity vs ph value Viscosity (mpa s) 2 Viscosity vs ph value (1%) in water 18 16 14 12 1 8 6 4 2 2 4 6 8 1 ph Cosmedia SP (1%) Rheocare C Plus (Carbomer) (1%) Tinovis ADE (1%) Tinovis GTC (1%) Remark: Rheocare HSP 118 and Luvigel Star: not applicable in water 4
Summary Electrolyte Tolerance Viscosity (mpa s) 2 Electrolyte tolerance (different a.m.) 18 16 14 12 1 8 6 4 2,1,2,3,4,5,6 % NaCl Cosmedia SP (1%) ph=6.1 Tinovis GTC (1%) ph=6.6 Tinovis ADE (1%) ph=7. Rheocare C Plus (Carbomer) (1%) ph=5.8 Remark: Rheocare HSP 118 and Luvigel Star: not applicable in water 41
Summary Emulsifying Capability Stabilized Oil phase (%) 35 Emulsifying capability (different a.m.) 3 25 2 15 1 5 Cosmedia SP (1%) Tinovis ADE (.5%) Tinovis GTC (1%) Rheocare C Plus (Carbomer) (1%) (1) With activator:.125% Cocoglucoside 42
Summary Product positioning Cosmedia SP Velvety sensory with elegant afterfeel. Efficient thickener and emulsifier/stabilizer. Sensorial Tinovis GTC Good emulsifying/stabilizing properties and tolerance to electrolytes. Suitable for sprayable and transparent formulations. Silky afterfeel. Aqua sensation Luvigel STAR AT 3 Associative thickener with a waxy afterfeel. Wild card Rheocare HSP 118 Sensory modifier with lubricious effect during application and plush afterfeel. Lubricity Tinovis ADE Optimal solution to thicken and emulsify/stabilize emulsions, usage at broad ph range. Dry afterfeel. Easy handling. Neutral
1 Polymers on the Skin Care Market 2 BASF Polymer portfolio: Description 3 Sensory of simplex formulations 4 Sensory of advanced formulations 44
Pillow Talk method Simplex and Advanced Formulations Area of Care (Richness) Waxy Powdery Plush 3 25 2 15 1 5 Silky Area of Elegance (Premium) Velvety Soft Pillow Talk Test Method for Simplex and Advanced Formulations: 3 trained test persons of the expert panel Done under supervision of the BASF Performance team Air-conditioned room (temperature of 22 C, HR 4%) 15µl polymer dispersion is applied on the inside of the forearm and distributed there in 2 big circles Smooth After 3 min the skin afterfeel was compared to 9 pillows made of different fabrics Chalky Dry Area of Gentleness (Neutral) Hint: plush=soft/powdery/waxy chalky=dry/smooth/ soft 45
Sensory of Simplex Formulations Formulation overview Tinovis ADE + 3% emollient phase ( Smooth care SC-DE-13-166-11) Tinovis GTC + 3% emollient phase ( Light comfort SC-DE-13-23-135c) Cosmedia SP and 25% emollient phase ( Velvety skin - SC-DE-13-23-19) Cosmedia SP + Tinovis GTC + 3% emollient phase ( Silky sophistication SC-DE-13-23-17) Cosmedia SP + Rheocare HSP 118 + 9% emollients ( Soft silk SC-DE-13-23-172) 46
Sensory of emollient phase (as is) Waxy Plush 3 25 2 15 1 5 Silky Area of Elegance (Premium) Velvety Soft Emollient Phase done with same amount of: Cetiol C 5 (Coco-Caprylate) Myritol 318 (Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides) Cegesoft PS 6 (Olus Oil) Powdery Smooth Chalky Dry 47
Spreading cascade Smoothness 48
Cetiol C 5 A sensory emollient alternative to Cyclomethicone Sensorial profile of Cetiol C 5 vs Cyclomethicone Performance profile Fast spreading emollient: 13 mm 2 / 1 min Excellent skin compatibility Supports the incorporation of powders Enhances the solubility of crystalline UV filters Similar to Cyclomethicone s key sensory parameters Spreadability [low] [high] Spreadability Distribution [slow] [fast] Distribution Cushion [less] [much] Cushion Absorption I (1min.) [slow] [fast] Absorption I (1min.) Absorption II (3min.) [slow] [fast] Absorption II (3min.) Tackiness [much] [less] Tackiness Oiliness [much] [less] Oiliness Waxiness [less] [much] Waxiness Velvety [less] [much] Velvety Powdery [less] [much] Powdery Softness [less] [much] Softness Sustainability benefits of Cetiol C 5 1 % derived from natural, renewable feedstocks Silicone alternative Approved by COSMOS, NATRUE, ECOCERT, BDIH and NPA Smoothness [less] [much] Smoothness Care feeling [less] [much] Care feeling Acceptance [low ] [high] Acceptance not significant significance 9% significance 95% significance 99% -1 -,5,5 1 Line zero = Cyclomethicone n= 11 Good match vs. Cyclomethicone 49
Cegesoft PS6 INCI: Olus Oil (EU) Vegetable Oil (CTFA) Low spreading:> 23 mm 2 /1 min Based on rape seed oil and on a very special canola oil Long lasting skin feel Unique properties: Similar spreading properties like mineral oil/paraffin liquidum Natural oil High in erucic acid and a high content of oleic (omega-9), linolic acid (omega-6) and tocoferol It can be applied for skin, hair, sun and baby care products 5
Sensory of Simplex Formulations Tinovis ADE and emollient phase Tinovis ADE (.5% a.m.) Tinovis ADE (.5% a.m.) + 3% emollients ( Smooth care SC-DE-13-166-11) Waxy Plush Silky 14 12 Velvety 1 8 6 4 2 Soft Silky Powdery Smooth Chalky Dry Emollient phase as is Waxy Waxy Plush Silky 25 2 Velvety 15 1 5 Soft Soft Waxy Plush Silky 3 25 Velvety 2 15 1 5 Soft Powdery Chalky Dry Smooth Smooth Powdery Chalky Dry Smooth Emulsion based on Tinovis ADE shows a light and silky afterfeel with residual waxyness 51
Smooth Care Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function A Tinovis ADE Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, PPG-1 Trideceth-6 Water, demin. Aqua Ad 1 1. Rheology modifier B Glycerin Glycerin 3. Humectant C Cetiol C 5 Coco-Caprylate 1. Emollient Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1. Emollient Cegesoft PS 6 Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] 1. Emollient D Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance Preservative q.s. Preservative E Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. ph Adjustment Preserved with MIT (Methylisothiazolinone) Specifications ph value (23 C) 5.6 Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TE, helipath; 4 rpm; 23 C) 1875 mpas Manufacturing Process Mix components listed under A while stirring. When the solution is homogeneous add phase B. Mix the oil phase C separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase D one by one. If necessary adjust the ph to ~5.5 SC-DE-13-166-11 52
Sensory of Simplex Formulations Tinovis GTC and emollient phase Tinovis GTC (1.% a.m.) Tinovis GTC (1.% a.m.) + 3% emollients ( Light comfort SC-DE-13-23- 135c) Waxy Plush Silky 14 12 Velvety 1 8 6 4 2 Soft Plush Velvety Powdery Smooth Chalky Dry Emollient phase as is Waxy Waxy Plush Silky 3 25 Velvety 2 15 1 5 Soft Waxy Plush Silky 3 25 Velvety 2 15 1 5 Soft Powdery Powdery Chalky Dry Smooth Powdery Chalky Dry Smooth Emulsion based on Tinovis GTC has a distinct effect in the area of Care with residual elegant feel 53
Light Comfort Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function A Tinovis GTC Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer 3.33 Rheology modifier Water, demin. Aqua Ad 1 B Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. ph Adjustment C Glycerin Glycerin 3. Humectant D Cetiol C 5 Coco-Caprylate 1. Emollient Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1. Emollient Cegesoft PS 6 Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] 1. Emollient E Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance Preservative q.s. Preservative Preserved with MIT (Methylisothiazolinone) Specifications ph value (23 C) 5.9 Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TC, helipath; 4 rpm; 23 C) 825 mpas Manufacturing Process Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Mix the oil phase D separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase E one by one. If necessary adjust the ph to ~6. SC-DE-13-23-135c 54
Sensory of Simplex Formulations Cosmedia SP and emollient phase Cosmedia SP (1.2%) Cosmedia SP (1.%) + 25% emollients ( Velvety skin - SC-DE-13-23-19) Waxy Plush Silky 14 12 Velvety 1 8 6 4 2 Soft Plush Velvety Powdery Smooth Chalky Dry Emollient phase as is Waxy Plush Silky 3 25 Velvety 2 15 1 5 Soft Soft Waxy Plush Silky 3 25 Velvety 2 15 1 5 Soft Powdery Powdery Chalky Dry Smooth Powdery Chalky Dry Smooth Emulsion stabilized with Cosmedia SP imparts Care feeling to skin with considerable velvety and soft afterfeel 55
Velvety Skin Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function A Cosmedia SP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.2 Rheology modifier Water, demin. Aqua Ad 1 B Glycerin Glycerin 3. Humectant C Cetiol C 5 Coco-Caprylate 8.3 Emollient Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 8.3 Emollient Cegesoft PS 6 Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] 8.3 Emollient D Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance Preservative q.s. Preservative Preserved with MIT (Methylisothiazolinone) Specifications ph value (23 C) 5.5 6. Manufacturing Process Mix components listed under A while stirring. When the solution is homogeneous add phase B. Mix the oil phase C separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase D one by one. If necessary adjust the ph to ~5.5 SC-DE-13-23-19 56
Cosmedia SP in combination with Tinovis GTC and emollient phase Cosmedia SP and Emollients Cosmedia SP (.3%) + Tinovis GTC (.4% a.m.) + 3% emollients ( Silky sophistication SC-DE-13-23-17) Waxy Powdery Plush Chalky Silky 3 25 Velvety 2 15 1 5 Soft Dry Smooth Tinovis GTC and emollients Plush Waxy Plush Silky 3 25 2 15 1 5 Silky Velvety Soft Velvety Waxy Plush Silky 3 25 Velvety 2 15 1 5 Soft Powdery Powdery Chalky Dry Smooth Powdery Chalky Dry Smooth Emulsion stabilized with a combination of Cosmedia SP and Tinovis GTC delivers a combination of Care and Elegant Feeling 57
Silky Sophistication Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function A Water, demin. Aqua Ad 1 Tinovis GTC Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer 1.2 Rheology modifier B Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. ph Adjustment C Cosmedia SP Sodium Polyacrylate.3 Stabilizer D Glycerin Glycerin 3. Humectant E Cetiol C 5 Coco-Caprylate 1. Emollient Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1. Emollient Cegesoft PS 6 Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] 1. Emollient F Preservative q.s. Preservative Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance Preserved with MIT (Methylisothiazolinone) Specifications ph value (23 C) 6.5 Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TC, helipath; 4 rpm; 23 C) 425 mpas Manufacturing Process Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Add phase D. Mix the oil phase E separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase F one by one. If necessary adjust the ph to 6.3-6.7 SC-DE-13-23-17 58
Cosmedia SP in combination with Rheocare HSP 118 and emollient phase Cosmedia SP and Emollients Cosmedia SP (1.2%) + Rheocare HSP 118 (.5% a.m.)+ 9% emollients ( Soft silk SC-DE-13-23-172) Waxy Plush Silky 3 25 Velvety 2 15 1 5 Soft Plush Velvety Powdery Chalky Dry Smooth Rheocare HSP 118 in water (1.% a.m.) Waxy Waxy Powdery Plush Silky 3 25 Velvety 2 15 1 5 Soft Smooth Soft Smooth Waxy Plush Silky 14 12 1 Velvety 8 6 4 2 Soft Chalky Dry Powdery Chalky Dry Smooth Emulsion based on Cosmedia SP and Rheocare HSP 118 is lubricious during Emulsion application stabilized and with the combination afterfeel is of Caring Cosmedia but at the SP same and Tinovis time Elegant GTC and delivers Gentle. a combination of Care and Elegant Feeling 59
Soft Silk Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function A Water, demin. Aqua Ad 1 Rheocare HSP-118 Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid 3.12 Rheology modifier B Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. ph Adjustment C Cosmedia SP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.2 Stabilizer D Glycerin Glycerin 2. Humectant E Cetiol C 5 Coco-Caprylate 3. Emollient Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3. Emollient Cegesoft PS 6 Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] 3. Emollient F Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance Preservative q.s. Preservative Preserved with MIT (Methylisothiazolinone) Specifications ph value (23 C) 6.3 Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TC, helipath; 4 rpm; 23 C) 35 mpas Manufacturing Process Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Add phase D. Mix the oil phase E separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase F one by one. If necessary adjust the ph to 6. - 6.5 SC-DE-13-23-172 6
1 Polymers on the Skin Care Market 2 BASF Polymer portfolio: Description 3 Sensory of simplex formulations 4 Sensory of advanced formulations 61
Sensory of Advanced Formulations Formulation overview Cold processable O/W Emulsion with Care feeling ( Elegant waxy cream SC-FR-14--D1) with Powdery and Velvety feeling ( Powdery soft butter SC-FR-14--C1) with 3D Sensory ( Luxurious balm SC-FR-14--B1) 62
Cold processable O/W Emulsion with Care feeling Elegant waxy cream SC-FR-14--D1 Rheocare XG.2 Tinovis GTC 3. Dehymuls PGPH 2. Luvigel EM 2. Cetiol PGL 4. Cetiol AB 4. Area of Care (Richness) Waxy Plush Waxy Plush Silky 3 25 2 15 1 5 Velvety Soft Cetiol 868 4. Plantacare 818 UP 1. Powdery Powdery Smooth Chalky Dry Complete formulation Highest score in Care area: Waxy feeling due to combination with Luvigel EM, Tinovis GTC and Dehymuls PGPH as W/O emulsifier. Chosen emollients with low cost in use. 63
Elegant waxy cream Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function A Water, demin. Aqua ad 1 Glycerin Glycerin 2. Humectant Preservative q.s. Preservative Rheocare XG (Europe only) Xanthan Gum.2 Rheology modifier B Tinovis GTC Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer 3. Rheology modifier Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. ph Adjustment C Dehymuls PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2. Emulsifier (W/O) Luvigel EM Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer 2. Rheology modifier Cetiol PGL Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate 4. Emollient Cetiol AB C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4. Emollient Cetiol 868 Ethylhexyl Stearate 4. Emollient D Plantacare 818 UP Coco-Glucoside 1. Emulsifier (O/W) Specifications Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance ph value (2 C) 6. - 6.2 Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle TE, helipath; 1 rpm; 2 C) Manufacturing Process Preserved with a mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylene Glycol SC-FR-14--D1 95-11 mpas Prepare phase A at room temperature. When phase A is homogeneous disperse Tinovis GTC in phase A and adjust the ph value. Then add phase C to A+B and directly after add phase D. Increase stirring rate to enable proper mixing until homogeneous. 64
Cold processable O/W Emulsion with Powdery and Velvety feeling Powdery soft butter SC-FR-14--C1 Luvigel STAR AT 3 2. Dehymuls PGPH 2. Luvigel EM 3. Cetiol PGL 4. Cetiol AB 4. Cetiol 868 4. Area of Care (Richness) Waxy Waxy Plush Silky 3 25 2 15 1 5 Velvety Area of Elegance (Premium) Soft Velvety Plantacare 818 UP 1. Powdery Powdery Smooth Chalky Dry Complete formulation The combination of Luvigel EM, Luvigel STAR and Dehymuls PGPH (W/O emulsifier) imparts a powdery feeling to formulations. Emollients choice to target lower costs. 65
Powdery soft butter Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function A Water, demin. Aqua ad 1 Glycerin Glycerin 2. Humectant Preservative q.s. Preservative Luvigel STAR AT 3 Polyurethane-39 2. Rheology modifier B Dehymuls PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2. Emulsifier (W/O) Luvigel EM Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer 3. Rheology modifier Cetiol PGL Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate 4. Emollient Cetiol AB C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4. Emollient Cetiol 868 Ethylhexyl Stearate 4. Emollient C Plantacare 818 UP Coco-Glucoside 1. Emulsifier (O/W) Specifications Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance ph value (2 C) 6. - 6.2 Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle TE, helipath; 1 rpm; 2 C) Manufacturing Process 2-21 mpas Prepare phase A at room temperature. When phase A is homogeneous disperse phase B in phase A. Then add phase C to A+B. Please note that on addition of phase C a significant increase in viscosity is to be expected! Increase stirring rate to enable proper mixing until homogeneous. Preserved with a mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylene Glycol SC-FR-14--C1 66
Cold processable O/W Emulsion with 3D Sensory Luxurious balm SC-FR-14--B1 Cosmedia SP.6 Luvigel STAR AT 1.5 Emulgade CM 1. Cetiol CC 5. Area of Care (Richness) Plush Waxy Plush Silky 3 25 Velvety 2 15 1 5 Soft Area of Elegance (Premium) Velvety Powdery Powdery Smooth Smooth Chalky Dry Gentleness Area (Neutral) Complete formulation The combination of Luvigel STAR and Emulgade CM delivers care and cushion feeling. The velvety afterfeel is related to the emlulsion component as well as to Cosmedia SP. 67
Luxurious balm Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function A Glycerin Glycerin 3. Humectant Edeta BX Powder Tetrasodium EDTA.5 Complexing agent Preservative q.s. Preservative Water, demin. Aqua ad 1 B Cosmedia SP Sodium Polyacrylate.6 Rheology modifier C Luvigel STAR AT 3 Polyurethane-39 1.5 Rheology modifier D Emulgade CM Cetearyl Isononanoate, Ceteareth-2, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Ceteareth-12, Cetyl Palmitate 1. Emulsion base Cetiol CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 5. Emollient E Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance Specifications ph value (2 C) 5.9-6.1 Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle 6; 1 rpm; 2 C) Manufacturing Process 4-6 mpas At room temperature, disperse phase B in phase A under stirring during 2 min. When the phase is homogeneous, add phase C. Then add phase D and for finish add phase E. Preserved with a mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylene Glycol SC-FR-14--B1 68
Polymer dispersions for sensory profile Samples of polymers in water Concentration of polymer 1 Concentration of polymer 2 ph Value Viscosity* [mpas] 1.2% Cosmedia SP 5.7 825 3% Luvigel STAR AT 3 6. < 2 1% Tinovis ADE 6. 6625 3.33% Tinovis GTC 6.5 325 6.26% Rheocare HSP 118 3.5 4.7% Cosmedia SP 3.13% Rheocare HSP 118 6.2 42 1.2% Tinovis GTC.3% Cosmedia SP 6.2 8 3% Luvigel STAR AT 3.5% Cosmedia SP 6.2 25 3% Luvigel EM 2% Luvigel STAR AT 3 6.2 2125 3% Tinovis GTC 2% Luvigel EM 6.2 2 Remark: samples were preserved with Euxyl K 1 * BRK RVF, TC-Spindle, 4 rpm, Helipath 69
Synergies of Cosmedia SP: ph Shift Rheocare C Plus (Carbomer) Viscosity ( mpa s) BKD RVT #TE 4 rpm (25 C) 12 1 8 6 4 2 Effect of Rheocare C Plus and Cosmedia SP synergy on viscosity Effect of Rheocare C Plus and Cosmedia SP synergy on viscosity with oils Viscosity ( mpa s) BKD RVT #TE 4 rpm (25 C) 2 16 12 8 4 ph 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, Cosmedia SP +,3% Rheocare C Plus Cosmedia SP +,2% Rheocare C Plus Cosmedia SP +,1% Rheocare C Plus Cosmedia SP,5% 1% Cosmedia SP + 2% oil 1% Cosmedia SP + 2% oil ph 6 ph 5,3 1% C. SP +.1% Rheocare C Plus + 2% oil Back To Cosmedia SP Different spindles form standardized tests (TE, 4 rpm) Performance improvement of Cosmedia SP at lower ph by addition of small amounts of Rheocare C Plus(*) (*) The stability can be strongly influenced by oil type 7
Synergies of Cosmedia SP: Salt Tolerance Rheocare XG (Xanthan Gum) Effect of Rheocare XG and Cosmedia SP synergy on viscosity Viscosity ( mpa s) BKD RVT #TE 4 rpm (25 C) 12 1 8 6 Effect of Rheocare XG and Cosmedia SP synergy on viscosity Viscosity ( mpa s) BKD RVT #TE 4 rpm (25 C) 2 16 12 4 8 2,,25,5,75 1, Without NaCl With.15% NaCl With.3% NaCl 4 1% Cosmedia SP + 2% Oil 1% Cosmedia SP + 2% Oil 1% C. SP + 1% Rheocare XG + 2% Oil % Rheocare XG + 1% Cosmedia SP Without NaCl With.3% NaCl Back To Cosmedia SP Different spindles form standardized tests (TE, 4 rpm) Cosmedia SP & Rheocare XG synergy help to stabilize oils and viscosity in presence of electrolytes(*) (*) The stability can be strongly influenced by oil type 71
Summary Emulsifying Capability Stabilized Oil phase (%) Emulsifying capability (different a.m.) 35 3 25 2 15 1 5 Cosmedia SP (1%) Tinovis ADE (,5%) Tinovis GTC (1%) Carbomer (1%) Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 (1%) Acrylates/C1-3 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (3) (,4%) (1) With activator:.125% Cocoglucoside 72
Polymers for Skin Care applications Product Information Performance Application Trade Name INCI Name Active Polymer % Physical form (1) Type Recommended dosage as is % Contains EO/PO Ethanol Compatibility ph application range Salt Tolerance Sensory Profile Thickening Emulsifying / Stabilizing Clear Gels Face & Body Sun Care AP/Deo Remarks Cosmedia SP Sodium Polyacrylate >88 P Anionic.2 1 No 6 12 Improve cushion Luvigel EM Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (and) Sodium Acrylates Copolymer ~25 L Anionic.5 3 Yes 6 9 o Quick breaking Luvigel STAR AT 3 Polyurethane-39 ~2 L Non- Ionic.5 5 Yes 2 12 o Associative thickener Tinovis ADE Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6 ~55 L Anionic.5 2 Yes 5 12 Easy handling Tinovis GTC (UP) Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer ~3 L Anionic 1 4 Yes 6 12 Sprays and transparent gels Rheocare HSP118 Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid ~15 L Anionic 1 5 No 2 12 o o o Improves lubricity Rheocare C Plus Carbomer >97 P Anionic.1 1 No 4 12 o Rheocare TTA Acrylates Coplymer ~3 L Anionic.5 4 No 6,5 12 Rheocare XG (2) Xanthan Gum >97 P Anionic.1 1 No 3 1 o High transparency Suitable for serums High transparency Cosmedia Triple C Polyquaternium-37 (and) Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and) Lauryl Glucoside ~5 L Cationic.5 3 No 3 11 Cosmedia Ultragel 3 Polyquaternium-37 > 92 P Cationic.5 1.5 No 3 11 Version: Jan 215 Performance: o None Good Very Good Excellent 73 (1) Physical form: P = Powder L = Liquid (2) Available in Europe only
DISCLAIMER While the descriptions, designs, data and information contained herein are presented in good faith and believed to be accurate, it is provided gratis and for your guidance only. Because many factors may affect processing or application/use, we recommend that you make tests to determine the suitability of a product for your particular purpose prior to use. NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE ARE MADE REGARDING PRODUCTS DESCRIBED OR DESIGNS, OR THAT DATA OR INFORMATION MAY BE USED WITHOUT INFRINGING THE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS OF OTHERS. IN NO CASE SHALL THE DESCRIPTIONS, INFORMATION, DATA OR DESIGNS PROVIDED BE CONSIDERED A PART OF OUR TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE. For more information visit us at www.personal-care.basf.com or www.carecreations.basf.com 75