FromCelebration tocelebration Dress Code for Academic Events
This guide introduces the dress code for academic events and festivities at Lappeenranta University of Technology. These festivities include the public defence of a dissertation, the post-doctoral karonkka banquet, and the conferment. Lappeenranta University of Technology was established in 1969 and, compared to many other universities, does not have long-standing traditions in academic festivities and especially doctoral conferment ceremonies. The following dress code should be observed at academic events at Lappeenranta University of Technology to establish in-house traditions. The instructions may, in some respects, differ from those of other universities. For instance with regard to colours worn by women, these instructions do not follow strict academic etiquette. 2
Contents Public Defence of a Dissertation Conferment Ceremony Dark Suit Dark Suit, Accessories Women s Semi-Formal Daytime Attire White Tie White Tie, Accessories Women s Dark Suit, Doctoral Candidate Women s Formal Daytime Attire, Doctor Formal Evening Gown Men's Informal Suit Women s Informal Suit Decorations Doctoral Hat Marshals 4 5 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 3
Public Defence of a Dissertation, Karonkka Banquet PUBLIC DEFENCE KARONKKA DOCTORAL CANDIDATE, MALE OPPONENT, MALE CUSTOS, MALE DOCTORAL CANDIDATE, FEMALE OPPONENT, FEMALE CUSTOS, FEMALE CANDIDATE S COMPANION, FEMALE White tie and tails, black vest (dark suit). Women s dark suit, high neckline, long sleeves, suit with short skirt or trousers. Opponent and custos: with decorations. Semi-formal daytime attire, dark(ish) dress or suit. p.12 p.16 White tie and tails, white vest if ladies present (dark suit). Doctors: doctoral hat. Formal evening gown, black. Doctors: doctoral hat. Formal evening gown, black. Doctors: doctoral hat. p.12 p.20 p.10 p.20 CANDIDATE S COMPANION, MALE Dark suit. p.6 Dark suit or white tie and tails. Doctors: doctoral hat. p.6 INVITED GUEST, MALE Dark suit. p.6 Dark suit or white tie and tails. Doctors: doctoral hat. p.6 INVITED GUEST, FEMALE Semi-formal daytime attire, dark(ish) dress or suit. p.10 Formal evening gown, any colour. Doctors: doctoral hat. p.20 AUDIENCE Appropriate attire. For invited guests only. 4
CONFERMENT CEREMONY REHEARSAL/ SWORD CEREMONY CONFERMENT AND CHURCH SERVICE BANQUENT AND BALL CRUISE RECIPIENT OF (HONORARY) DOCTORATE, MALE RECIPIENT OF (HONORARY) DOCTORATE, FEMALE COMPANION OF RECIPIENT MALE Dark suit. Semi-formal daytime attire. Dark suit. p.6 p.10 p.6 White tie, tails, black vest, no handkerchief, black leather shoes (not patent leather). p.12 Formal, full-length daytime attire, long sleeves, high neckline, no ornate jewellery, no pantsuit. p.10 Dark suit or white tie and tails, black vest, no handkerchief (doctors: academic regalia). p.6 White tie, tails, white vest, no handkerchief, doctoral hat. Formal evening gown, doctoral hat. White tie, tails, white vest, no handkerchief (doctors: doctoral hat). p.12 p.20 p.12 Informal suit, necktie, student cap. Informal suit or equivalent, student cap. Informal suit, necktie, student cap. p.22 p.24 p.22 COMPANION OF RECIPIENT FEMALE Semi-formal daytime attire. p.10 Semi-formal daytime attire, black or dark, short, long sleeves, high neckline (doctors: academic regalia). p.10 Formal evening gown (doctors: doctoral hat). p.20 Informal suit or equivalent, student cap. p.24 INVITED GUEST, MALE Dark suit. p.6 Dark suit or white tie and tails, black vest, no handkerchief (doctors: academic regalia). p.6 White tie, tails, white vest, no handkerchief (doctors: doctoral hat). p.12 Informal suit, necktie, student cap. p.22 INVITED GUEST, FEMALE Semi-formal daytime attire. p.10 Semi-formal daytime attire, black or dark, short, long sleeves, high neckline (doctors: academic regalia). p.10 Formal evening gown (doctors: doctoral hat). p.20 Informal suit or equivalent, student cap. p.24 5 5
Dark Suit OY TURO TAILOR AB 6
A dark suit is alternatively black, dark blue or dark grey. It is never brown or green. The fabric is smooth, rather thin and of a solid colour (or seemingly so). Instead of a solid colour, the suit may also be conservatively or barely noticeably striped, but not pin-striped. The jacket may be single- or double-breasted. During the festivities, it may be removed only at the request of the host. A dark suit is appropriate for any occasion, regardless of the time of day. Shirt Necktie The shirt is of a high quality, white and with a starched wingtip or Windsor collar. Single or double cuffs, always with cufflinks. The necktie may be dark blue or grey and it is made of silk. A pearl grey necktie is considered the most formal. The tie is always chosen according to the occasion. A black necktie is worn to funerals. Also a bowtie may be worn with a dark suit. A wingtip collar requires a bowtie. In academic festivities, the bowtie is of a conservative colour, such as pearl grey. Vest Overcoat Gloves A vest may be worn with a single-breasted suit, provided that it is made from the same fabric as the suit. According to time-honouring traditions, the bottom button of the vest is always left unbuttoned. A dark blue, dark grey or black ulster overcoat or trench coat may be worn over a dark suit. The coat must be knee-length or longer. Gloves are made of black or grey leather. Scarf The scarf may be solid or patterned silk or cashmere. Decorations Please see Decorations. 7
Dark Suit I Accessories JOUSIPAITA OY JOUSIPAITA OY Necktie knot 8
Belt Suspenders Socks Shoes Watch Jewellery Pocket handkerchiefs A black leather belt with a simple buckle may be worn with a dark suit. No suspenders are worn with the belt. Suspenders worn with a dark suit must be narrow and of the same colour as the suit. The socks are black, knee-high and made of wool or mercerised cotton. The shoes are black, laced and thin-soled. A wrist-watch may be worn with a dark suit. No unnecessary jewellery (e.g. earrings, bracelets or piercings) are worn with a dark suit. A wedding band is, naturally, allowed. Alumni rings are worn on the left index finger. No tie clips may be worn. Less is more. No pocket handkerchiefs are worn to academic events. 9
Women s Semi-Formal Daytime Attire MARIMEKKO / RITVA FALLA MARIMEKKO / JUKKA RINTALA 1 0
When men wear a dark suit, women may wear a sophisticated, festive dress, a delicate two-piece suit with a kneelength skirt, or an elegant pantsuit. Classic semi-formal daytime attire may consist of a black cocktail dress or shell paired with a jacket or blazer made from the same fabric. The hemline may be mini or full-length, depending on the person and the nature of the occasion. Semi-formal daytime attire may be of any colour. However, it should always have a high neckline and full-length sleeves. The overall appearance should be sophisticated, conservative and balanced. In conferment ceremonies, women always wear a black attire with fulllength sleeves and a high neckline. Colour Hosiery Shoes Watch Jewellery PUBLIC DEFENCE OF A DISSERTATION Dark or darkish, solid. Matching the attire, dark or nude. Simple, black pumps. A simple, unassuming wrist-watch. Unassuming jewellery. A simple pearl or gold necklace. REHEARSAL DINNER/ SWORD CEREMONY - recipient of (honorary) doctorate - female companion of the recipient - invited guest Any. Sheer, elegant, and of a solid colour matching the attire or shoes. Elegant pumps, colour matching the attire. A jewellery watch. Fine jewellery with a solid-colour attire. Modest jewellery with a patterned attire. CONFERMENT - female companion of the recipient - invited guest Black. Solid black or nude, sheer, high-quality. Simple, black pumps. A simple, unassuming wrist-watch. Unassuming jewellery. A simple pearl or gold necklace. Handbag A simple, black, shoulder-held purse. A small clutch or elegant, shoulder-held purse, preferably matching the shoes. A simple, black, shoulder-held purse. Gloves Gloves are not necessary. Gloves are not necessary. Gloves are not necessary. Outerwear A black coat or wrap. A wrap is also appropriate. A black coat or wrap. Hat No hat. No hat. No hat. 1 1
White Tie Shirt with a wingtip collar. JOUSIPAITA OY OY TURO TAILOR AB 1 2
Men's formal evening wear is white tie, which is worn after 18:00 in the evening. Academic festivities are an exception to the rule: they may require white tie also in the daytime. The tailcoat is made of wool or a wool blend. The lapels and the outer seams of the trousers are of silk. At academic events, tails are always black. At other events, tails may also be midnight blue, grey or even white. The garments should be put on in the following order: 1. socks, trousers 2. shoes 3. shirt, studs, cufflinks 4. suspenders 5. bowtie 6. vest 7. tailcoat Shirt Bowtie Vest Overcoat Gloves The shirt is white and has a starched wingtip collar; the wingtips are folded downward and under the bowtie. The front of the shirt dons a white starched dickey made from the same fabric as the vest, tie and cuffs. The shirt is fastened with pearly white or gold studs. The cuffs are fastened with cufflinks which match the studs. One to two centimetres of the cuffs should show from under the tailcoat sleeves. The bowtie is white; black is reserved for waiters. The vest is either single- or double-breasted. All of the buttons are fastened. The vest is open-backed with a rubber band adjuster at the back of the neck to adjust the length of the front panels. They may be as long as the front panels of the tailcoat, or at most one or two centimetres longer, and aligned with the tailcoat. A black vest should not be longer than the tailcoat. The shirt should not show from between the vest and the waistband of the trousers. A white vest is fastened with three studs similar to those of the shirt. A black vest is fastened with black studs. Black vest: public defence of a dissertation, conferment ceremony and church service.white vest: karonkka banquet if ladies present, conferment banquet and ball if ladies present. In the winter, the appropriate choice is a dark, wool ulster overcoat that covers the tails. Also a velvet or wool cloak may be used. Other seasons call for a dark trench coat. White kid gloves or white gloves made of a knitted cotton or synthetic fabric. Scarf Decorations The scarf is made of white silk. It is folded under the lapels of the overcoat. If worn with a cloak, one end may be flung over the shoulder. Please see Decorations. If it rains, a transparent raincoat or rain-cape may be worn to the academic procession. Umbrellas must be black. 1 3
White Tie I Accessories BOWTIE KNOT CARE White tie is formal wear which is seldom worn, and it should be cleaned after each use. This extends its lifespan. The instructions for care should be observed. The tailcoat and trousers are brushed and aired out. Remember to empty the pockets. Hang the tailcoat on a wide hanger, and hang the trousers folded in two. Then place the suit in a transparent garment bag. The dress shirt is washed after use, preferably at a dry cleaner s. The vest is neatly folded into its original box. Patent leather shoes are oiled after use and kept in their original box or on a shoe rack. Place lasts inside the shoes to maintain their shape. ATTACHMENT OF SWORD Cross-section of the stud Waistband of the trousers from the reverse Waistband of the trousers from the outside Sword attachment fastened onto the waistband 1 4
Belt Suspenders Socks Shoes Watch Jewellery Handkerchief No belt is worn with the trousers. If suspenders are used, they must be white and worn under the vest. Suspenders are recommended, because when they are attached in alignment with the crease, they support the trousers. Socks are black and reach at least the mid-calf, preferably the knee, fully covering the ankle. The recommended fabric is silk. At daytime events, the shoes are of matte leather and have thin soles. The shoes must always be polished and in good condition. In the evening after 18:00, patent leather shoes are worn. The appropriate choice of watch is a pocket watch, which is placed in the left pocket of the trousers. The chain is attached to the waistband, to the immediate left of the suspenders. The watch may also be kept in the left pocket of the vest, in which case the chain is attached loosely to the lowest button-hole of the vest. No unnecessary jewellery (i.e. earrings, bracelets, piercings) should be worn with white tie. A wedding band is, naturally, allowed. Alumni rings are worn on the left index finger. No pocket handkerchiefs are worn to academic events. On other occasions, a white pocket square made of silk or cotton cambric is appropriate. Further Information - The tails of the tailcoat are tucked aside when seated. - The suit must fit properly. - The tails should fall below the knees. - The front panels of the tailcoat should fall just below the waist. - The legs of the trousers should reach the top of the shoe heel. A white handkerchief is kept in one of the trouser pockets. - The tailcoat should not be removed during the festivities. - Men s hair should be clean and neatly cut. Long hair is tied back with a black or otherwise unassuming hair-band or barrette. - Cellular phones are not part of formal wear. - For fastening the doctoral sword, please see the figure on the previous page. Wallet Doctoral hat Doctoral sword If it is necessary to carry a wallet, it should be placed in the breast pocket. It should not, however, create a bulge in the coat. The wallet should not be placed in the back pocket of the trousers. Holders of a doctoral degree wear a doctoral hat to the conferment. At the conferment banquet and ball, the hat is checked with outerwear. No sword is worn to the banquet and ball. 1 5
Women s Dark Suit I Doctoral Candidate MARIMEKKO / RITVA FALLA 1 6
Women wear a black suit with fulllength sleeves and a high neckline to the defence of their dissertation. The suit may consist of a jacket and short skirt (not mini), or it may be an elegant pantsuit. The suit is paired with a black or white top with a high neckline. The custos may decide the attire and accessories of the candidate. Hosiery Shoes Watch Jewellery Handbag Sheer and solid black. Black, simple pumps. An unassuming, simple wrist-watch, preferably gold. No ornate jewellery. A simple pearl or gold necklace. The custos may decide on the use of jewellery. A small and unassuming black purse. 1 7
Women s Formal Daytime Attire I Doctor (Conferment and Church Service) 1 8
Woman degree recipients wear a full-length black dress with full-length sleeves and a closed, high neckline to the conferment. Pantsuits are not appropriate for the occasion. The style of the dress should be classic and timeless. The fabric should be elegant (velvet, wool), but not too festive, glossy or transparent. No fur should be worn. If the degree recipient also receives a sword, the dress should be accessorised with a suitable belt. The sword may, however, also be carried in hand. Hosiery Shoes Watch Jewellery Handbag Belt Gloves Outerwear Decorations Solid black, sheer, elegant. Simple, black pumps. No watch. Preferably no jewellery (possibly a simple pearl or gold necklace). No handbag. A belt matching the attire, possibly of the same fabric as the dress, which can carry the weight of the sword. No gloves. A simple, black coat or wrap. If it rains, a transparent raincoat or rain-cape may be worn to the academic procession. Umbrellas must be black. Please see Decorations. 1 9
Formal Evening Gown DESIGNER / JANNE RENVALL PHOTO / ULLAMAIJA HÄNNINEN DESIGNER / JANNE RENVALL PHOTO / ULLAMAIJA HÄNNINEN 2 0
Ladies formal evening wear is determined by the man s attire. Women s equivalent for white tie is a long evening gown. It is full-length and worn after 18:00 in the evening. The dress must fit properly and be made of a festive fabric, such as silk, satin, taffeta, silk velvet, chiffon or brocade. Stretching woven velvet fabrics or inexpensive synthetic fabrics are not an appropriate choice for an evening gown. The gown may have an open neckline or back, narrow shoulder straps (or no straps), long slits or a train. Festive fine jewellery, which may be too ornate for other dresses, may be worn with an evening gown. Evening gowns are always worn with the appropriate undergarments. An evening gown may be donned in any colour, even by doctoral degree recipients. Appropriate outerwear includes coats, capes, furs, wraps or stoles. Care An evening gown should be cleaned by a professional according to its care instructions as soon as possible after use. The gown should be stored out of direct light in a breathable garment cover or storage box. Hosiery Shoes Watch Jewellery Purse Gloves Handkerchiefs Scents Hair style Doctoral hat Doctoral sword High-quality, sheer hosiery with sheen (containing lycra) goes with an evening gown. As a rule, the more formal the event, the sheerer the texture. The colour of the hosiery depends on the dress. Silver or gold shimmer brings a festive touch to the attire, whereas nude is always a safe choice. The shoes should be elegant and delicate. They may be of suede, or gold, silver or bronze coloured leather, or a fabric that matches the gown. Open-toed shoes, sling-backs, sandals or mules may be worn with a gown made of a fine fabric. The shoes may also be embellished with glitter, crystal, beads, etc., depending on the gown. No watch is worn with an evening gown, with the exception of jewellery watches. Fine jewellery or a jewellery watch may be worn with an evening gown. The necklace must follow the neckline of the gown. The purse should be a small, elegant clutch (i.e. no shoulder strap) which matches the attire. The clutch is not held while dancing. During dinner, the clutch may be placed on the table, left of the place setting. Otherwise, the purse is never placed on the table or the floor. The appropriate place for it is on the seat, close to the back rest. Gloves may be worn with a strapless dress or a dress with narrow straps. They may be white, black, or the colour of the dress. They are removed for dinner. Handkerchiefs are kept in the purse. Perfumes are a part of festive occasions. However, they should be used conservatively. Other guests may find strong scents offensive. An evening gown requires a festive hair style. Depending on the style, the hair may be adorned with barrettes, combs, flowers and other hair accessories (tiaras, jewel headbands, etc.). At the conferment banquet and ball, doctoral hats are checked with outerwear. Doctoral swords are not worn to the banquet and ball. 2 1
Men s Informal Suit OY TURO TAILOR AB OY TURO TAILOR AB 2 2
A men s informal suit is light-coloured. Both the jacket and the trousers are made from the same, fine fabric. The suit should not be heavy in weight or appearance. The suit may be accessorised according to the occasion. The shirt and tie should suit the overall attire. The design and colour of the shoes and socks should go with the suit. For instance, a patterned suit calls for a solid shirt. A light-coloured jacket paired with matching trousers, i.e. so-called separates, may also be worn instead of a suit. Socks Shoes Watch Jewellery The socks must be appropriate for the occasion and match the suit. The design and colour of the shoes must go with the suit. The shoes must be in good condition, and they may be with or without laces. No sandals. A watch designed for everyday use may be worn with an informal suit. Jewellery may we worn with an informal suit according to preference. A tie clip is recommended. Hat Those who have a student cap may use it. 2 3
Women s Informal Suit MARIMEKKO / RITVA FALLA POLA OY 2 4
When men wear an informal suit, also ladies may wear one. A women's informal suit is of a light colour. It may be a suit with a skirt, a pantsuit, separates, or a dress paired with a blazer. The attire may also be short-sleeved. The suit does not need to be festive or made of a festive fabric. The outfit may be accessorised according to taste. Overall, the attire should be neat, elegant and suited to the season. Hosiery Shoes Watch Jewellery Handbag Hat Outerwear High-quality hosiery that matches the suit. The colour of the shoes should go with the suit. A watch designed for everyday use may be worn with an informal suit. No fine jewellery is worn with an informal suit. The suit may be accessorised with an appropriate shoulder-held purse. Those who have a student cap may use it. Appropriate outerwear includes a light summer coat, wrap, etc. 2 5
Decorations Women wear medals and commemorative crosses of orders halfway between the left armhole and the centre of the torso, approximately ten centimetres down from the shoulder seam. Other decorations may be worn simultaneously. Women may wear either full-size or miniature decorations. Decorations set certain requirements for the formal gown, which should be taken into account when selecting the gown. The fabric should be strong enough to hold the decorations in place. Decorations should not touch exposed skin. 2 6
Orders cross-shaped decorations and medals that hang from a ribbon are worn on the left front panel of a tailcoat. The upper edge of the ribbon should be approximately two centimetres above the breast pocket. They must all be attached to the same fastener to keep them aligned. If there is only one, it should be attached halfway between the sleeve seam and the centre of the torso. Either full-size or miniature decorations may be worn with white tie this is mentioned in the invitation. No pocket handkerchief is worn with decorations. 2 7
Doctoral Hat PHOTO: LUT 2 8
Doctors from Lappeenranta University of Technology Doctors of Science in Technology or Economics and Business Administration and Doctors of Philosophy receive a black doctoral hat. The following table also lists the colours of hats received from other faculties. Finnish doctoral hats are made of silk and range in six different shades. In addition, there are 22 different metallic lyres for the hat. Moreover, Doctors of Theology have a hatband, and Doctors of Arts (Art and Design) have a decorative stone instead of a lyre. The colour of the hat varies according to the faculty. At Lappeenranta University of Technology, the doctoral regalia are the doctoral hat and sword. They are passed on from generation to generation. They may be either displayed or stored appropriately. The proper way to store the hat and sword is in their original boxes. They should be handled with care and due respect. Only the recipients of the regalia are allowed to wear them. Degree Doctor of Science (Technology) Doctor of Science (Economics and Business Administration) Doctor of Philosophy Doctor of Education Doctor of Medicine Doctor of Dental Science (Turku ) Doctor of Science (Health Care) Doctor of Arts (Art and Design) Doctor of Theology (Åbo Akademi University) Doctor of Law Doctor of Sport Sciences Hat Black, bent brim Black Black Black Green Green (black) Black Bright blue Purple (black) Burgundy Dark blue In addition to a hat, Doctors of Science in Economics and Business Administration and Doctors of Philosophy also receive a sword. 2 9
Marshals 3 0
The marshal s sash is made of silk or a silk-like fabric, and it is usually blue and white. Its width is approximately 25-35 cm and its length 2.5 m. The sash is never worn in contact with exposed skin. Men: Men wear a dark suit (please see Dark Suit ). The sash is worn over the right shoulder and under the left arm. Hat Marshals wear a student cap. Women: Women wear a festive suit (please see Women s Semi-Formal Daytime Attire ), which is black (or dark blue). The skirt is at least knee-length and the neckline is high. A white top is worn under the jacket. The sash is worn over the left shoulder and under the right arm. Hosiery Shoes Watch Jewellery Hat Decorations Black, sheer, high-quality hosiery. Colour: solid or nude. Simple, black pumps. An unassuming, simple wrist-watch. No ornate jewellery. A simple pearl or gold necklace may be worn. Marshals wear a student cap. No decorations are worn with the marshal's sash. 3 1
Author: Pirjo Saravirta References are available from the author: pirjo.saravirta@ekamo.fi Graphic design: Tarmo Lavikka