9 CHAPTER 2 THEORITICAL FRAMEWORK 2.1 Defining Fashion Before jumping into the other related theories, the fundamental one is defining what fashion is really all about. When considering fashion, the basic reasons is why people needs to wear clothes. It may seem obvious, but there are basically many reasons to be discussed. According to Maslow Hierarchy, there are five levels of pyramid contains of the basic human needs. The bottom levels of the pyramid are the physiological needs which the most essential needs of a human being, consists of: food, shelter, and clothing (Marks, 2007). Clothes are one of the 3 most primary needs of human to survive in life. Based on Maslow s Hierarchy of needs, there are 5 levels of biogenic and psychogenic needs in which levels of needs are specified (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009). Figure 2.1. Level of Needs in the Maslow Hierarchy Source : Adapted from Michael R. Solomon, Consumer Behavior 8e, 2009. Reprinted by permission of Prentice-Hall,Inc., Upper Saddle River, NJ. 9
10 Above is the brief explanation of each levels and why people need to achieve every levels to survive in life (McGregor, 2012): Physiological: as mentioned before, this level of needs is contains of food, clothes, and shelter which consider as basic needs that human have to fulfill. But then when human reach these needs, other needs are emerge and so on down the hierarchy. Safety: these needs are generally the need to be free of the fear of physical danger and deprivation of the basic psychological needs. If someone s feel unsafe or insecure, the other needs are unimportant. That s why people needs to be safe Belonging: consider human is social being, they have a need to belong and well accepted by others in their group, thus a person will strive for a meaningful relation with others. Esteem: after an individual satisfy the need to belong, the level of needs become higher. They need to be recognizing by other. People begin to feel that they are useful as they can give an effect to surrounding. Self actualization: this is the top levels of Maslow Hierarchy. In this level people are trying to be somewhat they are capable in becoming. They are trying to find out what they are best due to satisfy the self-actualization needs as a human being. The Maslow s Hierarchy above is usually adapted by marketers because it specifies certain type of products benefits consumers might be looking for due to satisfy their particular needs. Solomon & Rabolt (2009) translated that fashion specifically clothing can satisfy needs at nearly every level of the hierarchy: Physiological : clothing can covers and protect the body from the elements Safety : people should feel safe in their clothing Social : fashion is something to share with and to be seen in by others
11 Esteem : wearing the latest fashion or an art-to-wear piece makes us feel good about ourselves and gives us a sense of status among our peers Self-Actualization : the way people dress is an expression of themselves Fashion can be defined as which styles are introduces and accepted by consumers, as well as a particular style which accepted by a larger society at a particular time (Kaiser, 1997). Fashion has been changes from time to time, but the cycle of fashion has been the same since longest time. Here below is the graph of regular fashion life cycle from innovation stage, rise, acceleration, general acceptance, decline and obsolescence. Figure 2.2 A fashion life cycle Source: Reprinted with the permission of Macmillan College Publishing Company from The Social Psychology of Clothing by Susan Kaiser. Copyright 1985 by Macmillan College Publishing Company, Inc. The figure shown above is an ordinary pattern of fashion life cycle. Commonly, a fashion life cycle start with the innovation and rise stage which both construct the first step called introduction stage. The next stage is the acceptance stage which the fashion reaches the maximum limit after the adoption progress. As the time goes by, the fashion life cycle are going to decline until it gone and disappears from fashion consumer s view. As a study developed by Hirschman and Adcock (1987) fashion consumer is divided into four common groups, which are: followers, innovators, opinion leaders, and
12 innovative communicators. In this research, the author would like to emphasize on fashion innovators and fashion opinion leaders as following the previous study. 2.2 Fashion Leadership Fashion leadership has become the important concept in marketing since the fashion leader plays a critical role in the diffusion of new fashions (Goldsmith, Jacqueline C, 1993). Previous study also stated that fashion leaders learn about new fashion earlier than the average consumers so does purchase fashion items soon after they are introduced to the market. Furthermore, it also mentioned that mass acceptance of a new fashion is often influenced by fashion leadership. Some studies have identified fashion leadership as leading to such shopping outcomes as high expenditures of money and time on fashion shopping (Gutnman and Mills, 1982) and impulse shopping (Phau and Lo, 2004). Therefore, fashion leadership is more to the excitement in buying new fashion items and enjoys the process because the excitement it affords. Two dimensions of fashion leadership are: fashion innovativeness and fashion opinion leadership (Jiyun Kang and Haesun Park-Poaps, 2009). Researchers asserted that women classified into differing fashion consumer groups based on their fashion leadership orientation and level of fashion innovativeness and opinion leadership (Hirschman and Adcock, 1987; Summers, 1972) 2.3 Fashion Opinion Leadership Fashion opinion leaders defined as people who are more interested in fashion than other consumers in the market, who are more confident for their own appearance, who are the first to purchase new fashion items and, above all, who can influence other buyers to adopt and buy new fashion items (Beaudion et al, 1998). Fashion opinion leaders have been observed as important role to the spread of new clothing fashions for a long time. Since they are share information and advice with other buyers, who seek them out as
13 sources of information about fashions and clothing as they exercise a competent influence on their buying behavior of other consumers (Ronald E. Goldsmith, Ronald A. Clark, 2008). Therefore, fashion opinion can influence their surrounding with their thought about fashion within a personal communication. According to Eliashberg and Shugan (1997) opinion leaders is a persons who are get the honor by a group, or by other people, because they have the expertise and knowledge as they are considered as the applicable source of information for run to advices. According to (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009) a fashion leaders or early adopter person shows the following demographic profile, such as; relatively young, not married or has no children, relatively high income and occupational level, female, reads fashion magazines, mobile, socialize, competitive, tends to be an exhibitionist or narcissistic. 2.4 Fashion Innovativeness Consumer innovativeness is positively related with opinion leadership (Goldsmith et al, 1996). Rogers (1995) describes innovativeness as the degree to which an individual is relatively earlier in adopting new trends than other member of his or her social system. By means, fashion innovativeness is the type of person who tends to buy a new fashion earlier than other consumers (Sproles, 1979). In general, researchers have agreed that fashion innovators are more likely to be younger, more mobile, to have a higher education level as well as a higher income than other fashion consumers (Baumgarten, 1975; Hirschman & Adcock, 1978; Jacoby, 1971: Painter & Pinegar, 1971; and Painter & Granzin, 1975) 2.5 Utilitarian Shopping Motivation Utilitarian shopping value is a shopper who focused on purchasing a fashion items due to achieve their goal or complete work (Babin et al., 1994). Utilitarian shopping motivations are more tasks oriented, rational, and cognitive with the aims to purchase
14 product more efficiency and rationally (Kang and Park, 2010). According to (Sarkar, 2011), utilitarian buying motives include convenience-seeking, variety-seeking, merchandise-quality seeking, and reasonable price rate. Thus, people who considered as utilitarian shopper are more logical when buying merchandise. They do need more time when shopping until they make an actual purchase. It is also conceivable that a purchase is not a necessary precursor of utilitarian shopping value. For example, utilitarian motivation value may result from a situational involved consumer collecting information out of necessity rather than creation (Bloch and Richins, 1983).Therefore, utilitarian purchasing behavior is more logical, rational, related to the actual transaction (Sherry, 1990; Batrs & Ahtola, 1990), and relate with more information gathering compared to hedonic shopping motivation (Bloch & Richins, 1983) 2.6 Hedonic Shopping Motivation Hedonic shopping motivations are based on the quality of the feeling of shopping experience itself rather than information gathering or product purchasing (Boedeker, 1995). According to Holbrook & Hirschman (1982) explained that hedonic consumption involves arousal taking place while purchasing or consuming where the different types of emotional feeling which are physiological and psychological play major roles. A study explained that differential aspects of hedonic and utilitarian shopping motivations and their predictive roles of behaviors found that consumers at a level of hedonism generally purchase a fashion product more frequently than those at a level of utilitarianism (Scarpi, 2006). A hedonic shopping motivation consumer s are more to pleasure seekers. Their buying motives are more to emotional feelings such as; for fun, enjoyable and attracting shopping experience. A study explain that hedonic shopping value is perceived as entertainment and emotional worth provided through shopping activities (Babin et al., 1994). Arnold and Reynolds (2003) developed and validated a scale of hedonic shopping motivations: adventure, gratification, role, value, social, and idea shopping motivations.
15 2.6.1 Adventure Shopping Motivation The adventure aspect of shopping would bring a hedonic value for shoppers (Babin et al., 1994). Adventure shopping refers to shopping which done primarily to seek stimulation and adventure experience. Adventure shopping motivation described as stimulation, and expressive method of human motivations, refers to shopping for stimulation, adventure, and the feeling of being in another world (Arnold and Reynolds, 2003). Adventure shopping refers to the feeling that just different from ordinary (Jiyun Kang and Haesun Park-Poaps, 2009). 2.6.2 Gratification Shopping Motivation Gratification shopping motivations, defined as tension-reduction theories of human motivation, involves shopping for relieving stress (Lee et al., 2001). Mostly happen when a consumer went through a bad day, sometime they do shopping to relieve their mood and come up with a better feeling in result. Buyers who do shopping with this motivation are more to enhance the negative mood or just as a special treat for themselves. According to Hausman (2000) gratification shopping is done mainly to satisfy and indulge oneself by engaging in shopping activity. 2.6.3 Role Shopping Motivation According to Arnold and Reynolds (2003), role shopping motivation is a definition from identification theories of human motivations, reflects the enjoyment that shoppers derive from shopping for others (Arnold and Reynolds, 2003). Role shopping motivations drives an individual to go shopping to give pleasure or gifts to others to make himself or herself happy (Jiyun Kang and Haesun Park-Poaps, 2009).
16 2.6.4 Value Shopping Motivation Value shopping motivation define as an assertion base of human motivation, affect the enjoyment of shoppers in bargaining looking for sales, and finding discounts (Arnold and Reynolds, 2003).Value shopping motivation may seen as a kind of game to be won or challenge to be conquered (Jiyun Kang and Haesun Park-Poaps, 2009). Value shopping is perhaps be the most common kind of shopping happen to anyone, which is done to get the best deal in the market in terms of bargain and special offers. 2.6.5 Social Shopping Motivation Social shopping as the name implies, is basically refers to shop which done along with family, relatives, or friends. Social sopping motivation is a method of human motivations, reflects socializing aims of shoppers while shopping (Reynolds and Beatty, 1999). According to Jiyun Kang and Haesun Park-Poaps (2009) social shopper motivation go shopping to maintain their membership to some social group and to enhance the relationship with family by shopping together. The primary motive here generally to socialize with others rather than buying a products. Consumers use shopping as an opportunity to mingle with other people and thus the process rather than the product becomes more significant (Diep and Sweeney, 2008) 2.6.6 Idea Shopping Motivation Idea shopping motivation is defined as categorization theories, and objectification theories, refers to shopping with the purpose of learning about new trends and fashion, styling or innovations (Arnold and Reynolds, 2003). Buyers who are in this shopping motivation are trying to keep up with trends by noticing new product and innovations in the market (Jiyun Kang and Haesun Park-Poaps, 2009).