Continuing Page 1 of 45 Pre-Nail Service Analysis Gel Nail Application The client s general health and the condition of their hands and feet should be examined carefully before beginning a manicure/pedicure treatment. There are many conditions that can affect the nail and some of them indicate the presence of more serious underlying health problems. In these cases, some manicure and pedicure treatments may be conducted but the client should be advised to see their doctor. Where contagious diseases or evidence of infection (redness, pus, tenderness and swelling) are present, treatments should not be conducted. (These conditions are identified as contra-indications, which requires your client to seek an appropriate professional) As a nail technician it s important to be able to identify basic nail disorders and diseases and decide whether the requested treatment can be safely performed. If you are unable to perform a treatment you need to tactfully explain the situation to the client. 1
Continuing Page 2 of 45 Your Professional Responsibility Ask your trainer or supervisor to help you locate appropriate references to identify the definitions of the following skin and nail diseases and disorders. Find out whether the disease or disorder is contra indicated for manicure/pedicure services. In some cases manicure and pedicure services can be safely conducted if modifications and precautions are taken. Contra-Indications General Contra-indications to manicures and pedicures include: some skin diseases and disorders in the hands and feet some fingernail and toenail diseases and disorders bruising or swelling of the wrist, ankle, finger or toe joints cuts and abrasions on hands and feet recent fractures, sprains or surgery on hands and feet areas exhibiting loss of tactile sensation high blood pressure diabetes Ultraviolet Gel Nail Enhancement Application 2
Continuing Page 3 of 45 What makes the Ultraviolet Gel Nail Enhancement application process different from other types of nail enhancements? After the nail plate is properly prepared, each layer of product applied to the natural nail, nail tip or form requires exposure to UV light to cure or harden. The UV light required for curing comes from a special lamp designed to emit the proper type of UV light. Ultraviolet Gel Enhancement Properties Most ultraviolet gel enhancements are made from acrylates; however, new ultraviolet gel nail enhancement technologies have been developed recently that use methacrylates. Similar to wraps and methacrylate nail enhancements, ultraviolet gel nail enhancements can also contain monomers, but they rely mostly on a related form called an oligomer. Oligo means few. An oligomer is a short chain of monomers that is not long enough to be considered a polymer. Nail enhancement monomers are liquids, while polymers are solids. Oligomers are in between. Oligomers are often thick, gel-like and sticky. Traditionally, ultraviolet gel nail enhancements rely on a special type of acrylate called a urethane acrylate, while the newer ultraviolet gel nail enhancement systems may use urethane methacrylates by themselves or in combination with urethane acrylates. Urethane Acrylate and Urethane Methacrylate Urethane acrylate and urethane methacrylate are the main ingredients used to create ultraviolet gel nail enhancements. The term urethane refers to the type of starting material that is used to create the 3
Continuing Page 4 of 45 most common ultraviolet gel nail enhancement resins. The chemical family of urethanes is known for high abrasion resistance and durability. Ultraviolet gel nail enhancement resins react when exposed to the UV light that is recommended for the gel. This resin is a chemical called photo initiator which causes the polymerization reaction to begin. The key thing to remember here is the combination of the resin, photoinitiator and the proper curing lamp. Ultraviolet gel nail enhancement systems employ a single component resin that is cured to a solid material when exposed to a UV light source. Ultraviolet gel nail enhancements typically do not use a powder that is incorporated into the gel resin. There are a few gels on the market that do incorporate a powder that is sprinkled into the gel. But this course will refer to gels as being the more common single component type. There are many types of ultraviolet gel nail enhancements. Some nail technicians favor an ultraviolet gel nail enhancement that is thick and will not level by itself. Other nail technicians like to use those that self-level quickly. It is up to you to find the ultraviolet gel nail enhancement that you prefer to use in your services and to learn how to use it. Categories of Ultraviolet Gel Enhancements The different ultraviolet gel nail enhancements can be categorized by the following: Thin Viscosity Gels Medium Viscosity Gels Thick Viscosity Gels Building Gels Sculpting Gels Remember that viscosity is the degree of density, thickness, stickiness and adhesiveness of a substance. Manufacturers have their market names for the ultraviolet gel nail enhancements that they make, but most fall under these general categories: 1. A clear resin used for the one-color method, for clients who wish to wear coloured polish or ultraviolet gel nail enhancement polish over the enhancement. 2. Pink resin or white-pigmented resin used for the two-color method for clients who want the French or American manicure finish without using any nail polish. There are many processes for 4
Continuing Page 5 of 45 performing a two-color method over tips or natural nails. The process varies from one ultraviolet gel nail enhancement manufacturer to another. UV GEL PROCEDURES PRE-SERVICE Complete the manicure pre service sanitation and disinfection. Greet client with a smile. Ask client to wash hands with liquid soap and rinse with warm running water and dry thoroughly. Technician washes and dries hands also. Prepare workstation. Set up standard manicuring table. Add the additional supplies needed to perform the services. If a first appointment, prepare client consultation form. Mark date of the service. Record any skin or nail disorders, allergies, and determine if it is safe and appropriate to perform service. Note if client is a nail biter or does heavy work as a daily routine. Record any specific information about service to be performed (e.g., UV gel overlay without polish, if polish is preferred; client s color preference). 5
Continuing Page 6 of 45 If a return visit, perform client consultation, using consultation form to record responses and observations. Check for nail disorders and decide if it is safe and appropriate to perform a service. If the client cannot receive a service, explain reasons and refer to a doctor, if appropriate. 6
Continuing Page 7 of 45 UV GEL APPLICATION STEP 1. Clean nails and remove existing polish. Begin with client s left hand little finger and work toward the thumb. Repeat on the right hand. Ask client to place nails into a finger bowl with liquid soap. Use a nail brush to clean nails over the finger bowl. Thoroughly rinse with clean water to remove soap residues which can cause lifting. STEP 2. Push back eponychium and carefully remove cuticle from the nail plate. Use a cottontipped wooden or metal pusher to gently push back eponychium. Apply cuticle remover to nail plate. Use as directed by the manufacturer and carefully remove cuticle tissue from the nail plate. 7
Continuing Page 8 of 45 STEP 3. Remove oily shine from natural nail surface. Lightly buff nail plate with medium/fine (240- grit) abrasive to remove the natural oils. STEP 4. Apply nail dehydrator. Apply nail dehydrator to nails with cotton-tipped wooden pusher, cotton pad with plastic backing, brush, or spray. 8
Continuing Page 9 of 45 STEP 5. Apply nail tips if desired. If client requires nail tips, apply according to the procedure. Shorten and shape tip prior to application of the UV gel. During the procedure the UV gel overlaps the tip s edge to prevent lifting. During the filing process, the seal can be broken, allowing the UV gel to peel or lift. Be careful not to break this seal. Be sure to follow the instructions recommended by the manufacturer of the system you are using. STEP 6. Natural nail preparation. Follow manufacturer s instructions for natural nail preparation. Properly prepare the nail plate. Using the applicator brush, insert brush into nail primer. Wipe off excess from brush and using a slightly damp brush, ensure nail plate is completely covered. Avoid using too much product to prevent running onto the skin, which can increase the risk of developing skin irritation or sensitivity. STEP 7. 9
Continuing Page 10 of 45 Apply UV gel #1 (base coat gel). Firmly brush UV gel onto entire nail surface including free edge. Keep UV gel from touching eponychium or sidewalls. Leave a tiny free margin between the UV gel product and the skin to reduce the risk of client developing skin irritation or sensitivity. Apply to client s left hand from little finger to index finger. If performing a one-color method (i.e., nail polish will be worn) a clear, pink, or natural color UV gel may be used. If performing a two-color method, a pink or natural color UV gel should be used. STEP 8. Cure UV gel #1 (base coat gel). Properly position hand in the UV lamp for the manufacturer s required cure time. Cure each layer of the UV gel product for the time required by the manufacturer s instructions. Curing for too little time can result in improper cure and may lead to service breakdown, skin irritation, and/or sensitivity. Improper positioning of the hands inside the lamp can also cause improper cure. STEP 9. Repeat Steps 7 and 8 on the right hand. 10
Continuing Page 11 of 45 Repeat same steps for both thumbs. STEP 10. Apply UV gel #2 (building UV gel). Apply a small amount of UV gel over properly cured, first layer. Carefully pull the UV gel across the first layer, and smooth into place. Avoid patting the brush or pressing too hard. Brush the UV gel over and around the free edge to create a seal. Avoid touching the skin under the free edge to prevent skin irritation and sensitivity. Repeat this application process for the other four nails on the client s left hand. If performing a one-color method, use the same colored UV gel as before. If performing a twocolor method, use the white gels to create a smile line at the free edge. Apply pink UV gel over remainder of the nail plate, leaving a tiny free margin between the UV gel and skin. STEP 11. Cure UV gel #2 (building UV gel). Properly position hand in the UV lamp for the manufacturer s required cure time. 11
Continuing Page 12 of 45 STEP 12. Repeat Steps 10 and 11 on the right hand. STEP 13. Repeat Steps 10 and 11 for both thumbs. STEP 14. If required, a second layer of UV gel #2 (building UV gel), may be applied. Repeat Steps 11 and 12 for both hands. 12
Continuing Page 13 of 45 STEP 15. Remove inhibition layer. UV gels cure with a tacky surface called an inhibition layer. This layer can be removed by filing with a medium abrasive (180-240 grit) or with alcohol, acetone, or other suitable remover on a cotton pad with plastic backing to avoid skin contact. Prolonged or repeated skin contact with the inhibition layer may cause skin irritation or sensitivities. Practitioner should avoid laying his/her arm in fresh filings from UV gel enhancements. STEP 16. Check nail contours. Using a medium abrasive (180-240 grit), refine the surface contour. File carefully near sidewalls and eponychium to avoid injuring client s skin. Bevel down, stroking file at a 45-degree angle from top center dome to free edge. Check 13
Continuing Page 14 of 45 free-edge thickness and even out imperfections with gentle strokes. During the procedure keep brush and UV gel away from sunlight, UV gel lamps, and full-spectrum table lamps to prevent gel nails from hardening. STEP 17. Remove dust. Remove dust and filings with a nylon brush that can be disinfected. Be sure to properly clean and disinfect brushes between clients. STEP 18. Apply UV gel #3 (sealer or finisher UV gel). Apply a small amount of UV gel #3 (sealer or finisher UV gel). Starting from base of nail plate, stroke toward free edge, using polishstyle strokes, to cover entire nail surface. Wrap final layer under the natural nail s free edge to seal the coating and provide additional protection. Avoid touching the client s skin. 14
Continuing Page 15 of 45 STEP 19. Repeat Steps 11 and 15. STEP 20. Remove inhibition layer. If required. Avoid skin contact. STEP 21. Apply nail oil. Rub nail oil into surrounding skin and nail surface. 15
Continuing Page 16 of 45 STEP 22. Apply lotion and massage hand and arm. STEP 23. Clean nail enhancements. Ask client to dip nail enhancements into a finger bowl filled with liquid soap. Use nail brush to clean enhancements over finger bowl. Thoroughly rinse with water to remove soap residues which can cause polish to lift. Dry thoroughly 16
Continuing Page 17 of 45 with a clean, disposable towel. STEP 24. Apply nail polish. UV GEL APPLICATION POST-SERVICE 1. Make another appointment. Schedule another appointment for maintaining nail enhancements. A re-balance will be necessary in 2 or 3 weeks, depending on how quickly the nails grow. Encourage client to return for a basic manicure between re-balance appointments if UV gel enhancements are polished. 2. Take-home product recommendations. Suggest professional products that would benefit client (i.e. polish, nail oil, topcoat, hand lotions, etc.). 17
Continuing Page 18 of 45 3. Clean up around your table. Take the time to restore the basic setup of table, restock supplies, and tighten all caps. 4. Clean brush. Clean brush according to manufacturer s instructions. Keeping it away from UV light sources will make cleaning much easier and will prevent ruining the brush. 5. Discard used materials. Dispose of waste materials. Collect materials, seal them in a plastic bag and discard in a metal, self-closing waste receptacle. Remove items soiled with enhancement product from your manicuring station after each client and dispose of properly. 6. Clean table, clean and disinfect implements and multi-use tools. Perform complete pre-service sanitation and disinfection procedures. We ve just learned another popular procedure for applying beautiful and durable nail enhancements. As a professional in the cosmetology field, it s important to have a thorough understanding of and competent skill level in every nail enhancement procedure in order to properly consult with clients to choose the enhancement procedure that best suits their needs. Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements are created by combining monomer liquid and polymer powder; thus the name liquid and powder. Mono means one and mer stands for units, so a monomer in one unit called a molecule. Poly means many, so polymer means many units or many 18
Continuing Page 19 of 45 molecules linked together in a chain. This is important to remember, since you will hear these terms many times throughout your career. Monomer and Polymer Application Categories Monomer and polymer products can be applied in three basic ways: 1. On the natural nail as a protective overlay 2. Over a nail tip 3. On a form to create a nail extension A natural hair pointed, round or oval application brush is the best brush to use for applying these products. The brush is immersed in the monomer liquid. The natural hairs of the brush absorb and hold the monomer like a reservoir. The tip of the brush is then touched to the surface of the dry polymer powder, and as the monomer liquid absorbs the polymer powder, a small bead of product forms. The small bead is then carefully placed on the nail surface and molded into shape with the brush. Monomer and Polymer Powders The monomer liquid portion is usually one of three versions used in the nail industry: ethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate or odorless monomer. All three often contain other monomers that are used as customizing additives. The industry standard is the ethyl methacrylate liquid monomer (MA) and odorless liquid monomer. Methyl methacrylate (MMA) is not recommended for use on nails and is prohibited for use in cosmetic products listed with the 'VGA in Australia and is also banned for use in New Zealand, and in the US. It may seem strange that polymer powder is also made mostly from ethyl methacrylate monomer. The polymer powder is made using a special chemical reaction called polymerization. In this process, trillions of monomers are linked together to create long chains. These long chains create the tiny round beads of polymer powder used to create certain types of nail enhancements. 19
Continuing Page 20 of 45 During the manufacturing/production of the polymer, the powder forms into tiny round beads of slightly varying sizes. These are poured through a series of special screens that sort the beads by size. The ones that are the right size are separated and then mixed with other special additives and colorants. The final mixture is packaged and sold as polymer powder. It is a surprisingly high-tech process that requires very specific manufacturing equipment, lots of quality control and scientific intelligence to produce a high quality polymer. This is the same with monomer production. Special additives are blended into both the liquid and powder. These additives ensure complete set or cure, maximum durability, color stability and shelf life, among other attributes. It is these 'custom' additives that make products work and behave differently. The polymer powders are usually blended with pigments and colorants to create a wide range of shades, including pinks, whites and milky translucent, as well as many other colours such as neon, pastel shades and brights in reds, blues, greens, purples, yellows, oranges, browns and even jet black. When liquid is picked up by a brush and mixed with the powder, the bead that forms on the end of the brush quickly begins to harden or set (referred to as 'set time). It is then put into place with other beads and shaped into place as they further harden or cure (referred to as 'cure time). In order for this process to begin, the monomers and polymers require special additives called catalysts and initiators. A catalyst is an additive designed to speed up chemical reactions. Catalysts are added to the monomer liquid and used to control the set or curing time. In other words, when the monomer liquid and polymer powder are combined, the catalyst (in the liquid) helps control the set-up or hardening time. How? The catalyst energizes and activates the initiators. The initiators start a chain reaction that leads to the creation of very long polymer chains. It is actually the initiators found in the powder that, when activated, will spring into action and start causing monomer molecules to permanently link together into these long polymer chains. This is another example of the polymerization process discussed above, except this time it is actually occurring on the fingernail. Modern Day Monomer Liquids and Polymer Powders Today's monomer liquids and polymer powders come in many colors, including variations of basic pink, white, clear, and natural. These colors can be used alone or blended to create everything from customized shades of pink to match or enhance the color of your client's nail beds, using opaque colors or blends to cover any irregularities in the nail bed, to bold primaries or pastels that can be used to 20
Continuing Page 21 of 45 create a wide range of designs and patterns. With these powders you can create unique colours or designs that can be locked permanently in the nail enhancement. They offer a wonderful way to customize your set vices or to express your artistry and creativity. Monomer and polymer overlays and nail enhancements can be created with a single color powder, if the client wears nail polish all the time. Gel Application Composition and Reactions Thickness of the gel coating has a great effect on the degree of cure. It is better to use three or four coats rather than one or two thicker coats. Thinner coats allow more light to penetrate the layer, thereby reducing shrinkage. Shrinking is normal, but above 12% causes many problems, such as lifting, cracking and other types of service breakdown. Gel enhancement products shrink up to 20%. Clients can sometimes feel the effects of excessive shrinking, commenting that the enhancement may feel 'tight' or complain of throbbing and/or a heat sensation on the nail bed. These symptoms can occur immediately or up to 24 hours after application, and depends entirely on how much the gel shrinks. Excessive shrinkage is not only discomforting, it can cause damage or trauma to the nail bed. Excessive shrinkage can squeeze the nail plate, causing it to 'pop' free of the track that holds it to the nail bed. Once the separation has occurred, it easily travels farther up the nail plate and infection can occur in the space between the nail plate and the nail bed. Other causes of trauma are over-filing, heavy abrasives and high-speed drills, over-priming or wearing nails that are too long for the clients lifestyle, activity level and nail plate shape. 21
Continuing Page 22 of 45 Shrinkage can be minimized by applying multiple, thinner coatings of gel. Clients with thin, damaged nail plates are easily injured by excessive shrinkage and other trauma. Remember, clients pay you to care for their fingernails first, then to give them beautiful enhancements. Keep the natural nail plate and surrounding skin healthy, and they are less likely to have problems. Always read, understand and follow the manufacturer s instructions for proper preparation, application, curing and finishing of your gel product. Gel Application Actions and Processes Below are examples of what goes on behind the scenes at various stages of the gel application process. ACTION: Apply bonder gel to the nail. PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES: Functioning like an acrylic primer, bonder gel has the ability to bond both to the nail and to other gels, making the nail plate more compatible with the enhancement product. ACTION: Cure nail in the nail light. PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES: When 22
Continuing Page 23 of 45 the photoinitiator is exposed to the proper UV light wavelength and intensity, it gives off a fragment of a molecule called a free radical. This free radical makes the gel unstable as it reacts with the double-bonds of the resin. As the double-bonds break, they combine with each other to create the polymer that we know as the gel nail enhancement (which is now back to a stable state). ACTION: (Sometimes) The client comments that her fingers feel warm or even pulls her hand out of the light due to a heat spike she feels in her fingers. PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES: The polymerization reaction gives off heat, known in scientific terms as an exothermic reaction ( exo means to give off, and thermic means heat). (The warm sensation is NOT caused by friction between the molecules, as some say.) If the heat is so intense that it causes the client pain, then the chemical reaction has occurred too quickly. Incompatibility between the gel and the gel light can cause this problem. 23
Continuing Page 24 of 45 ACTION: Thinly apply builder gel. (Then repeat the curing process.) PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES: UV light can t penetrate deeply into most substances, including UV gels. UV light is typically absorbed by the upper layers of gel or may even be reflected away. When thick layers of gel are applied to the nail, light is prevented from getting to the lower surface which means the gel will not cure properly. This is why you need to apply in thin layers, curing after each. 24
Continuing Page 25 of 45 ACTION: Apply sealer gel. (Then repeat the curing process.) PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES: This is thin viscosity clear or colored gel that protects the enhancement from chipping or yellowing. It gives the builder gel, an inherently weaker gel, scratch- and moisture-resistance. ACTION: Notice a tacky layer on the nail. PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES: This is uncured gel. Oxygen inhibited the top layer from curing. (If we were on a planet that was nitrogen only, we wouldn t have this problem and the gel would fully cure.) The bottom layers of gel aren t exposed to the oxygen at the surface, which is why that s not a problem there. (If this layer seems thicker than usual, then you are having a problem with curing at the lower levels, which likely means your light needs new bulbs.) 25
Continuing Page 26 of 45 Preparation for Acrylic Nail Application ACTION: Wipe the tacky layer with the manufacturer s designated product. PROCESS BEHIND THE SCENES: It would be possible to use other cleaning materials, but the most effective are isopropanol, methyl ethyl ketone, acetone, ethyl acetate, n-propyl acetate or a blend of these solvents. Water is not recommended because it won t remove the uncured gel. Be careful not to touch this uncured gel (i.e., don t file it off, then rest your arm in the filings). A plastic-backed pad is ideal, as the uncured gel can potentially soak through plain cotton. The term 'artificial nail enhancement' incorporates any procedure that lengthens, thickens or otherwise alters the appearance of the natural nail by artificial means. These procedures include the application of tips, acrylic liquid and powder systems, gel systems, sculpting on a form, any type of fabric wrap or the application of a full pre-formed artificial nail. Acrylic (methacrylate) nails make nail enhancements one of the fastest-growing and lucrative services in our industry. A cosmetology professional who would like to offer these services must master the techniques, minimize delivery time, and stay abreast of all the latest products. It is a great opportunity 26
Continuing Page 27 of 45 to put your creative juices to work and design customized products and services for your individual clients. We will cover the procedures for the various types of products, beginning with the most common type: Liquid and Powder Acrylic. Please keep in mind that these procedures are non-product specific and are only meant as a generic guideline -- always read, understand and follow the preparation, application and finishing instructions included with your product purchase. For more detailed hands-on instruction, contact your professional distributor for a listing of continuing education workshops in your area. Preparation Guidelines First and foremost, ask the client to wash her hands with a mild soap and warm water prior to seating herself at your table. You will need to assess the nail plate shape and length to prescribe the most flattering, long-lasting and complimentary service. The ideal free edge design will be a mirror image of the natural cuticle shape; i.e., an oval cuticle line = an oval free edge. Manicure Procedure File the free edge of the nail to a uniform length and shape according to your choice of application: Tip with overlay or sculpt on a form. Tips are designed to be slightly thicker at the stop point for added strength. If you are applying a tip, it is always recommended to begin with a very short free edge line. 27
Continuing Page 28 of 45 Using a 240-grit soft file, gently remove the natural nail shine in the direction of the nail growth. Filing from side-to-side may disrupt the nail plate layers which can result in air or contaminates being trapped in the layers and then sealed with acrylic Soak the nails in warm water and a mild detergent or an antibacterial, anti-microbial scrub for no more than 3 minutes to soften the cuticle. You may wish to perform a 'dry' manicure using a cuticle remover cream, and that is fine as well. Scrub the nail surface and underneath the nail plate with a soft nail brush or toothbrush to remove all traces of dust, then rinse the nails with a gentle spray of water. If you prefer, the client may go to a basin to rinse the scrub from her hands and nails. Gently towel-dry. 28
Continuing Page 29 of 45 Gently push back the cuticle and remove all translucent skin from the nail plate surface. Skin contains oils and moisture which prevent proper adhesion. Nail Plate Prep Apply nail prep to the natural nail surface in a 'scrubbing' motion. Prep will temporarily remove moisture and some of the oils from the nail plate layers. Temporary dehydration of the nail plate layers will last for up to 30 minutes. 29
Continuing Page 30 of 45 Tip Application Choose a tip with the best fit to the natural nail shape, making note that the 'C' curve of the tip is a perfect fit to the 'C' curve of the natural nail. The stop point of the tip should fit snugly against the free edge with the sides perfectly parallel. If the tip is slightly too small use the next largest size -- if it is slightly too big or overhangs the sidewall, refine the sidelines with a file for a customized fit. Apply a line of adhesive across the free edge of the natural nail. If using a thin adhesive, apply a drop into the well of the tip and spread evenly with the applicator nozzle. If you prefer a gel-type adhesive, draw a line across the center of the well from side to side. You do not need to 'spread' the gel adhesive. 30
Continuing Page 31 of 45 Hold the tip at a 45 angle to the nail plate, and then slide the tip forward until the natural free edge butts snugly against the stop point of the tip. Apply nail adhesive to the well of the nail tip, then slide it onto the free edge of natural nail so it fits snugly. Make sure the nail tip fits the curve of natural nail. Press down for five seconds. Repeat these steps for the opposite hand. Cut nail tips down to a realistic length with tip clipper. Nails that are too long break and lift 31
Continuing Page 32 of 45 easily. Scoop a small amount of gel onto application brush and wipe one side of brush clean on the side of jar. Apply a thin layer of gel to your nails as you would nail polish. Do not allow the brush to fan out because it will cause uneven distribution. Avoid the cuticle and skin. 32
Continuing Page 33 of 45 Applying Tips with Acrylic Nail Tip Application PRE-SERVICE 1. Pre-service sanitation. 2. Standard table setup. Add abrasives, buffer blocks, nail adhesive, nail tips. 33
Continuing Page 34 of 45 3. Greet client. Have client wash hands with soap and warm water. Thoroughly dry the hands with a fresh towel. 4. Client consultation. Complete card by recording responses and observations. Check for nail disorders, etc. APPLICATION PROCEDURE 1. Remove polish. Begin with client s left hand, little finger. Repeat on right hand. 2. Push back eponychium. Use cotton-tipped orangewood stick to gently push back cuticle. Use light touch because cuticle is Dry no solvent. 34
Continuing Page 35 of 45 3. Remove cuticle tissue. Use cuticle remover and a wooden or metal pusher/curette. Carefully remove cuticle tissue from nail plate. 4. Buff nail/remove shine. Buff lightly over nail plate with medium/fine (180-grit or higher) abrasive to remove natural oil. Remove the dust with nail brush. 5. Size tips. Must completely cover nail plate from sidewall to sidewall and never more that onethird of the length of the nail plate. Tips should be pre-beveled along the cuticle edge. This reduces potential damage to natural nail. Place tips on towel in order of application. 35
Continuing Page 36 of 45 6. Apply dehydrator. Use cotton-tipped wooden pusher or spray to apply dehydrator/cleanser to nails. It will remove more of the natural oil and dehydrate nail for better adhesion. 7. Apply adhesive. Place on nail plate to cover area where tip will be placed. Don t let it run on the skin; apply it from the middle of the nail to the free edge. 8. Slide on tips. Stop, Rock, and Hold. Stop find stop against free edge at 45-degree angle. Rock rock tip on slowly. Hold hold in place firmly for 5 to 10 seconds. If white spots or air bubbles, tip must be reapplied. (Also used for well-less tips.) 36
Continuing Page 37 of 45 9. Trim nail tip. To desired length with tip cutter or large nail clippers. Cut from one side, then the other. Cutting straight across weakens the plastic. 10. Finish blending. Sand the shine off tip with medium- to fine-grit buff-block file. Hold file flat. Holding at an angle can make a groove in nail plate. 11. Shape nail. Use abrasive to shape new, longer nail. 37
Continuing Page 38 of 45 NAIL TIP POST-SERVICE 1. Schedule appointment. Follow-up or maintenance needed. 2. Sell retail products for home maintenance. 38
Continuing Page 39 of 45 3. Clean up area. Cap glue and clean applicator tips in acetone. 4. Discard used materials. Put in plastic bag and discard in a closed pail. 5. Sanitation. Clean and disinfect table, implements, and multi-use tools. TIP REMOVAL PROCEDURE 39
Continuing Page 40 of 45 1. Soak tips and nails. Place remover in a small glass bowl; soak a few minutes. 2. Slide off tip. Use wooden pusher to slide off the softened nail tip. Don t pry off as it could cause damage to nail unit. 3. Buff nail. Gently buff natural nail with fine-block buffer to remove adhesive residue. 40
Continuing Page 41 of 45 4. Reapply nail tips. Follow routine nail tip application. 5. Perform desired service. Nail tips are a great way for clients to wear long and glamorous-looking nails. Due to the nature of the procedure, numerous follow-up maintenance services are needed and result in return business and increased revenue for the nail technician. Care should be taken throughout the procedure to avoid damage to the natural nail. Nail Terminology Often time terms associated with nails and artificial enhancements are either unclear in their definition, or confusing by their very nature. Most of these terms have a chemical relation, yet they can be easy terms to comprehend. The list below contains terminology associated with natural and artificial nails, procedures, and a few product definitions. Adhesive: A chemical that causes two surfaces to stick together. Allergen: A substance capable of producing an exaggerated or adverse reaction, such as sneezing, coughing, rash or irritation in sensitive individuals. Allergic Reaction: Allergic reaction, or an allergy, is an adverse reaction to the body usually characterized by skin redness, itching, blisters and localized swelling. Acrylic: A polymerized polymer coating.. This coating is formed through the combination of an exact mix ratio of monomer to polymer. Today's acrylic monomers (liquid) are made with Ethyl Methacrylate (EMA) due to its inherent flexibility. Acrylic polymers (powder) contain 41
Continuing Page 42 of 45 approximately 70% EMA, and 30% MMA (Methyl Methacrylate). These combinations of chemicals create an enhancement that is both flexible and strong and mimics the natural nails flexibility and strength. Bacteria: A single cell organism. Some bacteria are capable of causing disease. Balance Point Positioning: Stabilizing your working hand on your other hand for steady control. Benzoyl Peroxide: A heat-sensitive initiator used in monomer and polymer systems. Breathing Zone: The two foot sphere around each persons mouth, from which all your breathing air is drawn. Brittleness: The properties that determine how likely something is to break under force. Chemical: Everything you see and touch except for light and electricity. Contamination: To make impure, infected, corrupt, etc., by contact with or addition of something. Co-polymer: Polymers made of two or more different types of monomers. Cross-linked: Polymers that create a chemical bond between two other polymer chains. Crystallization: An undesirable, but preventable formation of tiny crystals in the uncured nail coating that usually results from unusually cold temperatures or drafts. Liquid will actually freeze and turn into a solid before it polymerizes with the powder (polymer). Cuticle: True cuticle is the layer of translucent or colorless skin that is constantly being shed from the underside of the proximal nail fold. Dehydration: To remove moisture from a surface, substance or object this will improve adhesion and help to prevent yeast, bacterial and fungal infections. De-lamination: The peeling apart of two improperly adhered surfaces. Natural nails can delaminate due to a lack of natural oil and moisture levels in the nail plate layers. Most often referred to as 'lifting'. Dermis: The dermis is the bottom layer of skin. The surface of the dermis is grooved with many tiny channels, slits or tracks, upon which the nail moves as it grows. Disinfection: A procedure used to control micro-organisms on non-living surfaces such as: instruments, implements or environmental surfaces. Distal Edge of Plate: Distal means the farthest edge, or the free edge. Ethyl Methacrylate (EMA): Ethyl Methacrylate is most widely used in monomer form as one part of the system used to create artificial nail enhancements. EMA can be safely soaked from the nail plate for complete removal. EMA is a 'flexible' monomer. Etch: The process of rendering a design on a hard surface (such as glass) by corroding its surface with acid. This term is often used to describe the filing process used to remove the surface shine from natural nails in preparation for a nail enhancement service. 'Etching' is usually 42
Continuing Page 43 of 45 accomplished by using a heavy grit file to remove the surface shine, and to disrupt the nail plate layers. Today's products do not require the use of this damaging method to ensure adhesion. Epidermis: The epidermis is the upper most layer of skin. It is attached to the bottom of the nail plate and is ridged with tiny 'rails' that run in the same direction as the dermis grooves. The effect is much like a train riding on its tracks as it moves forward. Eponychium: The eponychium is the extension of the proximal nail fold at the base of the nail body which partly overlaps the lunula. Esters: A small specific portion of a structure of a molecule. All nail coating polymers, except for polishes, contain esters. Flash Point: The temperature at which a substance gives off a sufficient amount of vapors to form an ignitable mixture with air. Products with a low flash point (below 100 F) should not be used in the presence of (or near) fire, flame, sparks or high heat, i.e., a lit cigarette or automobile trunks. The flash point of a product can be found in the MSDS. Flexibility: Determined by how much a substance will bend under force. Free Radicals: Very excited molecules which cause many kinds of chemical reactions. Fumes: Irritating smoke, vapor or gas. Fungi: Fungi are microscopic plant organisms consisting of many cells, such as mold, mildews and yeast. Fungi are incapable of manufacturing their own food and behave as either parasites or saprophytes. Gel (Nails): Gel is often referred to as not being acrylic, when in fact they are based on both the methacrylate and the acrylate family, and are indeed acrylic. Gels are made by pre-joining some of the monomers into short chains called oligomers. Oligomers are single chains that are several thousand monomers long. Gels create rigid surface coatings and are usually cured by exposure to ultra violet light. Hardness: A measure of how easily a substance is scratched or dented. Hazardous Ingredient: Any substance which may be capable to causing physical or health related injury to an exposed individual. Hydroxyl Ethyl Methacrylate (HEMA): HEMA is a protein specific monomer that will seek out and firmly attach itself to the protein in the nail plate. HEMA is used as an additive to improve adhesion. Hyponychium: the hyponychium is that portion of the epidermis under the free edge of the nail. Interpenetrating Polymer Networks (IPN's): A polymer that weaves through other polymers and increases cross-linking. Lateral Nail Fold: The lateral nail fold is the surrounding soft tissue around the sides of the natural nail. 43
Continuing Page 44 of 45 Lunula: The lunula, or half moon, is located at the base of the nail. The area under the lunula is the front of the matrix. The light color of the lunula may be due to the reflection of light where the matrix and the connective tissue of the nail be join. Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS): Chemical information sheets also containing safety precautions on each potentially hazardous product one uses. It is an OSHA regulation for all salons to have MSDS on premises for all products containing potentially hazardous chemicals. Matrix: The matrix is that part of the nail bed that extends beneath the nail root and contains nerves, lymph and blood vessels. The matrix produces the nail and its cells undergo a reproducing and hardening process. The matrix will continue to grow as long as it receives nutrition and remains in a healthy condition. Mildew: A white or grayish coating formed by fungi on plant leaves, cloth, paper, etc.. Mix Ratio: Relation in degree or number between two things. MMA (Methyl Methacrylate): MMA in its liquid form has been banned for use in the nail industry due to the severity of allergic reaction and damage to the natural nail plate. It adheres so tightly to the nail plate that it can literally rip the nail plate from the nail bed due to heavy pressure from a blow or trauma to the nail. MMA is so hard that it cannot be safely removed from the nail plate by soaking in any form of remover -- it must be filed from the nail plate with a heavy abrasive. Mold: Any of various fungous growths formed on the surface of organic matter. Mold is not a human pathogen. Monomer: Individual, reactive chemical units which may be linked together to form a polymer. Nail Bed: the nail bed is the portion of skin upon which the nail plate rests. It contains blood vessels that supply nutrients to the fingertip. Nail Plate: The hard keratin coating that protects the fingertip and underlying tissue. Nail Root: The nail root is at the base of the nail and is embedded underneath the skin. It originates from an actively growing tissue known as the matrix. OSHA: Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Overexposure: Chemical hazards caused from prolonged, repeated exposure beyond levels specified as safe by regulatory agencies. Pathogen: A micro-organism which is capable of causing disease. Polymer: Any of numerous natural and synthetic compounds of unusually high molecular weight consisting of repeated linked units, each a relatively light and simple molecule. Polymerization: The process of forming a polymer. To unite two or more monomers to form a polymer. Prep: Prep contains chemicals such as Ethyl and/or Butyl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol and other ingredients. Prep is a temporary dehydrator and deep cleanser that will remove the moisture 44
Continuing Page 45 of 45 and some of the oils from the nail plate layers. It will disinfect the nail plate, is a ph balancer, and aids in physical and chemical bonding. The effects of prep will last approximately 30 minutes before the nails oil and moisture are replaced by natural means. Primer: Primers are usually made with 100% pure methacrylic acid. Although primers are caustic to skin, they are not caustic to the nail plate. Primers aid in product retention because one end of the molecular chain is attracted to the oil molecule in the natural nail plate, and the other end is attracted to the monomer molecule. Primers act like double-sided sticky tape. Proximal Nail Fold: The proximal nail fold is often mistaken for the cuticle. The cuticle is actually shed from the underside of the proximal nail fold. 'Proximal' means "nearest attached end". The proximal nail fold acts like a gasket to seal off the matrix where the new nail plate is growing. Pterygium: Pterygium is a reversal of the normal inward folding of the skin under the free edge of the nail plate, or the lateral nail folds. This can be caused by trauma and by certain skin conditions such as lichen planus. A dermatologist can sometimes remove this excess tissue by using acid peels or surgery. Sanitation: Sanitation reduces the number of pathogens or bacteria on a surface. Sector Sculpting: Structurally engineering the enhancement for proper balance. Sensitization: Sensitization is a type of allergic reaction in which the affected person becomes increasingly sensitive to the allergy causing substance through repeated and prolonged contact. Sensitizer: A chemical that causes a substantial portion of exposed people or animals to develop an allergic reaction in normal tissue after repeated or prolonged exposure to a chemical. Solehorn: the rigid epidermis stays attached to the bottom of the nail plate until it grows beyond the free edge. This tissue is called the solehorn cuticle, and will eventually slough off by itself or is removed during a manicure. Solidification: the process of turning from a liquid to a solid. Sterilization: Sterilization completely destroys all living organisms on an object or surface. Strength: The ability of a substance to withstand breakage under force. Vapor: The gas formed by the evaporation of liquids. Ventilate: To admit fresh air into a space in order to replace stale air. Viscosity: The measure of a liquid's ability to 'flow'; related to the thinness or thickness of a liquid. You will see this term used on the MSDS. 45