Mineral Make-Up 101: Foundation, Blush, & Eye Shadow ~ by Lori Nova Endres ~ www.thenovastudio.com Source for Mineral Makeup Supplies & Additional Info: TKB Trading: www.tkbtrading.com - Owner: Kaila Westerman USE DISCOUNT CODE novastudio for 10% off! 510-451-9011 - Not open to walk-in traffic, but pickups can be pre-arranged. Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved.
DERMATOLOGIST BEST COSMETIC PRACTICES FOR KEEPING SENSITIVE SKIN LOOKING ITS BEST 1. Choose powder when possible. Powder cosmetics are not only great at removing shine; they have very few preservatives & contain minimal ingredients that can cause irritation. This means powder cosmetics are much less likely to cause problems for women with sensitive skin than their liquid counterparts. 2. Avoid water proof cosmetics. While waterproof cosmetics, such as mascara, are great for tearful moments, they require a solvent to remove them that also removes sebum, the oily substance made by the sebaceous glands in the skin. Without this oily barrier, skin is exposed to potential irritants that can cause a beauty breakout. 3. Throw out old cosmetics. Women should keep track of cosmetic expiration dates & throw out any items that have passed their peak, cautioned Dr. Draelos. Old make-up products may have spoiled or become contaminated, a particularly important point when it comes to eye products, cautioned Dr. Draelos. A few standard product life spans include: 1 year for foundation & lipstick; 3-4 months for mascara; and 2 years for powder & shadows. It is also important to wash make-up brushes & sponges regularly since they can harbor dirt & germs that will aggravate sensitive skin. 4. Use black-colored eyeliner & mascara products. Women with sensitive skin will find that dramatic black is best when it comes to eyeliner & mascara product colors. Dermatologists feel that black is the least allergenic of all colorants. 5. Use pencil eyeliner & eyebrow fillers. According to Dr. Draelos, Pencil eyeliner & eyebrow pencils are waxbased and contain pigment & minimal preservatives. They are much less likely to cause problems than liquid eyeliners that contain latex & may cause problems in latex-sensitive individuals. The pencil forms of these cosmetics are also water removable, making them easier on the surface of the skin. 6. Stick to earth-toned eye shadows. Lighter earth tones, such as tan, cream, white or beige, seem to cause less upper-eyelid irritation in women with sensitive or itchy eyes. It is possible that the higher concentration of pigments in darker colors like navy blue can cause an adverse reaction in women with sensitive skin, speculated Dr. Draelos. 7. Check sunscreen ingredients. Dermatologists recommend daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a Sun Protection Factor 15 or higher. For women with sensitive skin, this sunscreen should only contain the physical sunscreen ingredients zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Unlike chemical sunscreen agents which absorb UV rays, it is impossible to be allergic to physical sunscreen ingredients since they deflect the rays rather than absorb them. 8. Use products that contain no more than 10 ingredients. Simply stated, the fewer ingredients in a product, the less likely it is that the product will cause a problem. 9. Avoid nail polishes. In addition to being easily smudged & chipped, wet nail polish can be transferred to a person s eyes & face before it dries. This transfer can cause problems for women with sensitive skin if they find the polish irritating or have an allergic reaction to any of the components of the polish. 10. Use foundations based on silicone. While powder is preferred to protect sensitive skin, women choosing a liquid foundation should look for one with a silicone base. Liquid facial foundations based on silicone do not cause acne, and silicone has a very low incidence of skin irritation. Source: PRNewswire, March 24, 2003 Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 2 of 15
WHAT IS MINERAL MAKE-UP? Mineral Make-up is a type of loose powder make-up that is crafted from powdered minerals. Its history roots are ancient, as women (and men) have been putting colored earth on their skin since the beginning of time. The concept of loose, powdered mineral make-up was introduced 1998 when the CEO of Bare Escentuals offered Bare Minerals Foundation on QVC. Full lines of mineral make-up are now offered by more and more companies such as Jane Iredale, Bare Minerals & Sheer Cover-up Makeup (with Leeza Gibbons). Some of the mainstream make-up companies, such as Revlon, are adding mineral make-up alternatives to their current cosmetic lines. These companies promote the numerous advantages of mineral makeup over its alternatives: It is a natural and effective sun block if the formula includes titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. In light applications, the SPF is around 10, in heavier applications, the resulting SPF is around 20. Coverage is lightweight and complete, which is great for skin with color problems such as Rosacea or hyper-pigmentation. Many of the ingredients have special properties. For example, zinc oxide is a proven antiinflammatory, which makes it great for skin that has just endured a beauty treatment (like a chemical peel). Mineral makeup is typically quite water-resistant and long lasting, which makes it a great choice for people who are active or who live in hot, humid environments. Because it s non-comedogenic and oil free, you can even sleep in it. In many cases, it is not necessary to add any chemical preservatives (the raw materials are inert minerals and cannot support bacteria, mold or fungi). Nevertheless, it is recommended to use your product within 6 months to 1 year of manufacture date (see Miscellaneous Information: Shelf Life section). Mineral makeup is fast and easy to apply, and very forgiving (color-wise). Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 3 of 15
WHICH MINERALS ARE USED? There are several minerals currently used to create foundations, blushes, and eye shadows: Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Kaolin Clay, Talc, Cornstarch, Boron Nitride, Magnesium Stearate, Bismuth Oxychloride, and Sericite Mica to name a few. The good news is that there are no fixed recipes. And the bad news for some people is that there are no fixed recipes! Basically you can use the various minerals to achieve the look and feel that suits you. We have included some recipes to use as a guide but it will eventually be your choice to make your foundation shinier, your blush more matte, and so on. Base Ingredient Evaluation Criteria: As you become more familiar with the ingredients you ll be able to create recipes that provide the best combination of these criteria for your skin. COVERAGE How well the ingredient covers the skin. If you suffer from Rosacea or hyper pigmentation, you ll want more coverage and less translucency. Generally, you ll want more opaque ingredients for base foundation or concealers (to give you more coverage) and more translucent, natural looking ingredients for a blush. ABSORBENCY Does the ingredient absorb oils/moisture? If you have oily skin, you ll want to include an ingredient that absorbs oil, such as Kaolin clay. If you have dry skin (or for products around the eyes), you will want to avoid absorbent base ingredients. ADHESION How well does the ingredient adhere so that it does not have to be reapplied? If you made a foundation out of just arrowroot powder, it wouldn t stick to the skin. Higher adhesion will last longer without touch-ups. BLOOM Is the product completely matte, shiny or somewhere in between? Typically, younger women prefer more sheen and more mature women prefer matte finishes. SLIP How does the product feel when it is applied to the skin? It should feel silky and lightweight, with minimal drag on the skin (not heavy or clumpy). Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 4 of 15
Page 5 of 15 Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved.
1: Make Your Base THE 4 BASIC STEPS TO MAKING A POWDERED COSMETIC Step 1: Make Your Base Step 2: Add Colors Step 3: Add Liquid Additives Step 4: Sift & Put into Containers. Blend the white powders together to get the best of 5 criteria: Coverage Absorbency Adhesion Bloom Slip (Note: The TKB Formulary Cheat Sheet is very helpful for this step): 2: Add Colors Start with a color concentrate and then adjust it. OR Develop your own color concentrate from scratch by blending little by little Straight Oxides & Ultramarines are more intense in shade than colored mica, therefore it s easier to baby step with colored mica (but then you re adding shine) 3: Add Liquid Additives (not necessary for the powdered products covered in this Handout) Not required but might come into play when making other formulations. Jojoba oil, essential oils, preservatives, or other liquids 4: Sift & Put into Containers Copyright, TKB Trading. LLC all rights reserved, 2005-2016 (used by The Nova Studio with permission) Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 6 of 15
Measured by Weight (in Parts): COLOR CONCENTRATES Cream, Yellow Hue: 24 yellow oxide, 3 red oxide, 2 brown oxide, 1 chromium oxide green Beige, Yellow Hue: 15 yellow oxide, 4 red oxide, 1 chromium oxide green, 1 ultramarine blue Beige, Olive Hue: 14 yellow oxide, 3 red oxide, 4 red oxide (blue shade), 1 black oxide, 1 brown oxide, 1 ultramarine blue, 2 chromium oxide green Neutral, Russet Hue: 5 yellow oxide, 3 red oxide, 2 red oxide (blue shade), 1 ultramarine blue Honey: 6 yellow oxide, 3 red oxide Asiana: 8 Yellow oxide, 2 red oxide, 1 red oxide (blue shade), 1 black oxide, 1 chromium oxide green Russet: 3 yellow oxide, 3 red oxide, 1 ultramarine Measured by Volume: Cream, Yellow Hue: 1 tsp. yellow oxide, 2 large scoops brown oxide, 4 small scoops chromium oxide green Beige, Yellow Hue: 1 ¼ tsp. yellow oxide, ¼ tsp. red oxide, 3 large scoops chromium oxide green, 2 large scoops ultramarine blue Tan, Russet Hue: 1 tsp. yellow oxide, ¼ tsp. red oxide, ¼ tsp brown oxide, ¼ tsp chromium oxide green, 1 large scoop ultramarine blue Caramel: 1 ¼ tsp. yellow oxide, 4 large scoops red oxide, ¼ tsp brown oxide, 2 large scoops chromium oxide green, 1 large scoop ultramarine blue, 4 small scoops black oxide With one Color Concentrate you can make: Foundation (add to your basic foundation base) Concealer (your foundation, lighter by a few shades; just add titanium dioxide white) Tinted Lotion (color concentrate added to lotion) Tinted Sunscreen (color concentrate added to sunscreen) Eye Shadow (add to a basic shimmer base) Mineral Veil/Setting Powder (add to cornstarch) With other Color Concentrates you can make: Blushes (add to translucent base) Bronzer (add to a translucent base) Tone Enhancer (add to a translucent base) Color concentrates are typically 10-25% of the formula, depending on what you are making. Copyright, TKB Trading. LLC all rights reserved, 2005-2016 (used by The Nova Studio with permission) Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 7 of 15
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION Pure Hues vs. Colored Micas There are basically two types of colors we are using today. Pure hues (pigments) include the iron oxides (like red oxide, yellow oxide, etc.) and ultramarines (like ultramarine violet, ultramarine blue, etc.), and colored micas (such as oriental beige, gold fine, bronze, etc.). The pure hues are much more intense and a little will go a long way, so add them in small increments. Also, pure hues (pigments) will need to be blended very well into your products (otherwise you could have streaks see Mixing section below). The colored micas are more forgiving, but they all have shimmer in them, so if you want a totally matte product, you will want to avoid them. Mixing It is important that all your loose mineral products are well mixed especially once you add color. The best way to achieve this is by using a small coffee bean grinder (for blush & foundation). If you don t have a coffee grinder available, you can try using a mortar and pestle after first mixing the ingredients well in a zip lock baggie. If you do not properly mix color and base you could end up with streaks of color on your face. The only exception to the coffee grinder would be eye shadow, since contains mostly mica the coffee grinder can damage the structure of the mica. Simple mixing in a zip lock is usually all that is needed for eye shadows. Application Tools Use the proper brushes to apply your cosmetics. Use separate brushes for each item (ex. don t use the same brush for your foundation and for your blush, etc.). Places that sell mineral makeup supplies (like Bare Minerals) offer a great selection of brushes. Shelf Life Mineral makeup does not require preservatives because water is not used & the minerals do not support the growth of bacteria (the exceptions would be corn starch & arrowroot). In theory, mineral makeup has an indefinite shelf life but to be safe you should probably replace your products anywhere between 6 months to one year after making it. If you plan on selling mineral makeup, it is advisable to look into lab testing of your products to limit your liability & consider products liability insurance through an organization such as the Indie Business Network. Matching vs. Creating For those who already wear makeup and know what colors work on you, it s much easier to try to replicate or approximate a color you already have versus choosing a color out of the blue that you think will work with your skin tone and coloring. If you don t currently wear makeup, you can go to any place that sells makeup (mineral makeup or traditional makeup) and ask them for a makeover. Most places do these without a fee (hoping you will buy something) but check to be sure before the makeover. Color Correcting Help If your color is too PINK or is too bright with a pink shade, add Chromium Oxide GREEN. If your color is too ORANGE, or too bright with an orange shade, add Ultramarine BLUE. If your color is too YELLOW, or too bright with a yellow shade, add Ultramarine VIOLET. Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 8 of 15
MAKING EYE SHADOW WHAT IS EYE SHADOW? Commercial eye shadows generally contain talc (filler), kaolin clay (helps with adhesion and is also a filler), titanium dioxide (whitener and helps with adhesion), and mineral color additives such as oxides, ultramarines and micas. Also, they typically contain metallic soaps such as zinc stearate (for adhesion), binders such as lanolin (sheep wool fat), mineral oil (petroleum biproduct), and potentially harmful synthetic preservatives. HOW CAN YOU MAKE IT YOURSELF? While you can use colored micas "as is" for your eye shadows, you may wish to blend the colored micas with a "filler" like sericite mica or bismuth oxychloride (for a shimmer eye shadow) or kaolin clay or zinc oxide (for a matte eye shadow). Alternatively, you can purchase a wonderful pre-made eye shadow base from TKB. Why would you do this? 1) A filler is less expensive than the colored mica, and using a filler will reduce your costs; and 2) The filler may improve the performance of the colored mica, making it have better adhesion, better sheen, better slip, etc. WHAT IS TKB MATTE EYE SHADOW BASE? TKB's Purely Matte Texture Base for Eyes is a unique blend of mica, titanium dioxide & magnesium stearate (all natural minerals). You could purchase each of these ingredients separately & come up with your own texture base, but why bother? TKB has done it for you, to remove the hassle & make it simple. The base is affordably priced & ready to go. INSTRUCTIONS (yield: one 5-gram jar): 1. Measure out ¼ tsp. of TKB matte eye shadow base into a tiny zip lock bag. 2. Decide whether you want a matte or shimmer eye shadow. 3. Start by adding approximately ¼ teaspoon of mica (color of your choice) 4. Ziploc bag firmly & squish together with your fingers for 30 seconds. 5. Unzip the bag & test color on your hand or eye using your own brush or applicator. 6. If color is too intense/sparkly, add more of the base, if too light, add a darker mica. 7. When done, package in 5-gram eye shadow container & enjoy! HELPFUL COLOR NOTES: -Mica adds shimmer and shine, while Oxides by themselves are matte. -Interference or Hilite micas are white in appearance, but have an after-sheen of color. -The larger the micron size of the mica = more sparkle, smaller micron size = more matte. -A natural eye shadow can be made just a few shades darker than your foundation. HANDY TIP: For larger projects, use a larger zip lock bag. A coffee grinder or blender is not recommended as the sheer force of these machines damages the structure of the mica. Also, it isn t necessary. Simple shaking/mixing is all that is required. Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 9 of 15
MAKING BLUSH & BRONZERS A blush or bronzer is colored makeup that is applied mostly to the cheek area (sometimes lightly dusted on the forehead and nose as well) to bring a glow to the face and make you look alive! Making blush & bronzers is similar to making foundations, but the main difference is you tend to use more transparent or translucent raw materials for the base and the colors will be different. I m going to introduce a very simple recipe for blush, which involves using a base of Sericite Mica mixed with the color(s) of your choice. There are other base recipes for blush you can try on your own (see table below), but when starting out, it s nice to keep it simple and show that a great blush can simply be made using as little as 2 ingredients. INSTRUCTIONS (yield: one 10-gram jar): 1. Add 1 tsp. of sericite mica into a small zip lock baggie. 2. Optional: For a more shimmery product, add ¼ tsp. Bismuth Pearl or Diamond Sheen. 3. Add approx. 1/8 tsp. of color (micas and/or oxides, your choice) to your baggie. 4. Mix for a few seconds in your baggie, then transfer to a mortar and pestle. Mix very well. 5. Slowly and carefully add more color until you achieve your desired shade. 6. Test on your skin using a light touch. Package in 10-gram blush container & enjoy! COLOR RECIPE IDEAS SHIMMER BLUSH: to base, add 3 pinches Red oxide and 1 tiny pinch Gold Fine Mica MATTE BLUSH: to a matte base, add 3 pinches Red Oxide and 1 tiny pinch Yellow Oxide DARK BRONZER: to base, 1 pinch each of Brown Oxide, Bronze & Antique Copper Mica LIGHT BRONZER: to your base, add 1-2 pinches Bronze Mica HANDY TIP: The FD&C colors (e.g., Red #40, Red #7, etc.) are often used in blushes because these dyes are more vibrant than iron oxides. However, some people with sensitive skin prefer to avoid the FD&C dyes because they are less natural than iron oxides and have been known to cause breakouts. Ingredient SHIMMER & MATTE BASES Use these bases for blushes, bronzers & overall color boosters. Amount in Shimmer Base Amount in Matte Base Notes: Cornstarch 2 teaspoons 4 teaspoons Traditional makeup uses Talc. Cornstarch is a substitute for Talc. Sericite Mica 1 teaspoon 1 teaspoon Sericite Mica provides some sheen, less shimmer than Bismuth Oxychloride. Zinc Oxide None 1 teaspoon Zinc Oxide makes the base less translucent, slightly more matte. Bismuth Oxychloride or Kaolin Clay ½ tsp. Bismuth (optional) 1 tsp. Kaolin (optional) Bismuth Oxychloride provides shimmer; Kaolin provides adhesion and makes base more matte. Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 10 of 15
MAKING LOOSE MINERAL FOUNDATION When you start out making foundations, the easiest way involves two parts: a blend of base ingredients and a color concentrate both are chosen for your skin tone. There are 2 primary recipes (see Basic Foundation Bases section) for the base powders in your foundation. One is formulated for Light to Medium skin tones and the other for Medium to Dark. The primary difference between the two is that the lighter blend contains Zinc Oxide & Titanium Dioxide, which are both whiteners & sunscreens. Choose the blend of base powders that best suits your skin tone, with the optional additives (like kaolin for oily skin and bismuth for added shimmer) noted in the instructions below. Foundation is the most challenging of all the products we are discussing today. A proper foundation should match your skin so that it is essentially invisible when it is on your face. It s always easier to match a shade you have purchased than it is to start from scratch, but either way, expect to go through a few rounds of mixing and color matching to get the best shade for you. INSTRUCTIONS (yield: one 25-gram jar): 1. Get a zip lock baggie and measure into it your choice of the foundation bases below. 2. My light/med blend contains ½ tsp. zinc oxide, ½ tsp. titanium dioxide & 2 tsp. sericite mica. 3. My med/dark blend contains ½ tsp. bismuth oxychloride (pearl sheen) & 2 tsp. sericite mica. 4. Try to pick the right blend for your skin tone AND for your skin s needs. 5. If you have oily skin, you can add 1/8 or 1/4 tsp. of kaolin clay to your baggie. 6. If you want a slight shimmer foundation, add ¼ tsp. of bismuth pearl sheen. 7. If you want a more obvious shimmer foundation, add ¼ tsp. of bismuth diamond sheen. 8. Once your base powder mix is complete, you are ready to choose your color concentrate. 9. There are five choices (listed directly below). 10. Open your zip lock baggie and add 1/8 tsp. of your chosen color concentrate. 11. Close baggie & mix well. Next, use a coffee grinder to thoroughly mix before testing on skin. 12. Turn grinder over, let the powder fall into the lid, lightly tap & wait for dust to settle & open. 13. Test on your skin. Is it too light? Add more color. Is it too dark, add more base powders. 14. When done, package in 25-gram foundation container & enjoy! PRE-MADE COLOR CONCENTRATES Chose which one best describes your skin tone. If you aren t sure, ask a friend! Refer to the Color Concentrates on pg 7 for exact recipes for each color concentrate below. CREAM: is the lightest shade for very fair skin. This base works well for yellow undertones. You can adjust with a little red oxide if the blend is too yellow for your skin. BEIGE/YELLOW: Beige is a common skin tone; this concentrate is formulated for beige skin with yellow undertones. BEIGE/OLIVE: Beige is a common skin tone; this concentrate is formulated for beige skin with olive undertones. TAN/RUSSET: is good for dark tones with reddish hues. CARAMEL: is for dark tones with yellow hues. Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 11 of 15
BASIC FOUNDATION BASES Use these bases for foundations and for use in creating concealers & veils. Ingredient Amount in Light-Medium Skin Base Amount in Medium-Dark Skin Base Notes: Sericite Mica 4 teaspoons 4 teaspoons Sericite provides sheen, is lightweight and translucent. Zinc Oxide 1 teaspoon 1 teaspoon (or none) Zinc Oxide is a sun block that soothes skin. Provides some opacity. Titanium Dioxide White 1 teaspoon none Titanium Dioxide soothes skin and is a sun block. Also an opaque Bismuth Oxychloride (with Pearl Sheen) 1 ½ teaspoons (optional) 1 ½ teaspoons (optional) whitener. Bismuth provides shimmer which reduces appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Kaolin Clay ½ tsp. (optional) ½ tsp. (optional) Use only in oily skin formulas. MAKING CONCEALER OR VEIL The same basic recipe that you use for making foundation can also be used to create a customized concealer or mineral veil. A concealer is simply your foundation with the following added qualities: 1) It is lighter by a couple of shades; 2) It has more coverage and is therefore less translucent; and 3) It is more matte and less shimmery. Making a Concealer is easy: measure ¼ tsp. titanium dioxide and ½ to 1 tsp. of your finished foundation into a coffee bean grinder. Blend well and check the color (it should be a few shades lighter than your foundation). Add more foundation or titanium dioxide as needed to get the exact shade you desire. To apply, first apply your foundation, and then use a smaller brush to apply directly on problem areas. Use a larger brush to blend. Once you become more confident in making your own cosmetics, you can experiment with making Color Correctors as follows: To ½ teaspoon titanium dioxide, add approximately ¼ tsp. of the following color (you may increase or decrease the amount of color to suit your purposes): Yellow Oxide: Brightens dull complexions or pale skin; counteracts redness. Chromium Oxide Green: Counters redness from Rosacea, acne, or irritated skin. Ultramarine Violet: Counters yellow or sallow skin, tones, minimizes yellowish bruises. Ultramarine Blue: Counters orange tones which may result from sunless tanning products. HANDY TIP: Consider adding these colors directly to your concealer, rather than to titanium dioxide. In this way, you can make a special color correcting concealer. A veil (like Bare Escentuals Mineral Veil ) is an overall powder that is brushed onto your face after all the makeup is in place. It gives your face an overall finished look. To make a Mineral Veil, simply take 1 teaspoon of Cornstarch and add two mini-scoops of your finished foundation. Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 12 of 15
TROUBLESHOOTING APPLICATION TIPS Chalky, mask like or too heavy: Cause: Over application, too light of a color, or use of an incorrect application tool. Solution: Custom blend two colors together, use a darker color, or utilize a fluffier facial brush. Drying appearance: Cause: Surface of the skin is dry. Solution: Utilize a heavier moisturizer, blend your moisturizer and minerals together creating a liquid foundation, and/or mist with mineral water. Pores appear larger or powder is lying in the fine lines: Cause: Over Application and/or the product has been applied with a brush. Solution: Utilize a setting powder before and/or after foundation, smooth powder with damp sponge using pressing rocking motion to set the mineral makeup and lift any excess powder. Also, try mixing the minerals with an oil free moisturizer and apply as a creamy foundation. Shiny or oily appearance: Cause: Over application, moisturizer too heavy, or tendency to oily skin type. Solution: Use oil free moisturizer or apply setting powder under and/or over the mineral makeup. Streaked, blotchy or uneven appearance: Cause: Over application, moisturizer is too greasy, moisturizer may contain alpha hydroxy acids (minerals will drag on the skin) or the moisturizer is not completely penetrated before mineral powder is applied. Solution: Minimize amount of foundation powder used, blend with setting powder, Experiment with different moisturizer, and if the powder is mixed in your moisturizer make sure that the beads of mineral powder are completely mixed in. Copyright, TKB Trading. LLC all rights reserved, 2005-2016 (used by The Nova Studio with permission) Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 13 of 15
TALC SUBSTITUTES Talc is a natural mineral (silicate of magnesium) with a soft, soapy feel which makes it popular for use in cosmetics. It offers excellent adhesion, slip and bloom and it is relatively inexpensive. However, because talc is mined from the same area where asbestos is found, it can be contaminated with asbestos. Asbestos is a known carcinogen. Many people wish to avoid the use of talc. Here are the common talc substitutes: Cornstarch (vegetable) Arrowroot Powder (vegetable) Oat Starch (vegetable) Rice Powder (vegetable) Silk Powder (animal) There are two disadvantages to using a talc substitute: The first disadvantage is that these substitutes do not have as good adhesion as talc. For this reason, you may wish to blend your talc substitute with any of the following additives: Kaolin clay Bentonite Clay Magnesium Stearate These additives should be about 2%, while the talc substitute is about 98%. The second disadvantage involves potential for bacterial or fungal growth. The substitutes are plant/animal based materials which are food for the bacteria or fungi. Therefore, extra care should be given to working with the talc substitutes to make sure they are kept dry and that they are used within a three month period. Copyright, TKB Trading. LLC all rights reserved, 2005-2016 (used by The Nova Studio with permission) Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 14 of 15
MINERAL MAKEUP FORMULATION RECORD SHEET: [MADE ON DATE: BEST BY DATE: ] EYE SHADOW: NAME: YIELD: BASE INGREDIENTS & QUANTITIES: COLOR INGREDIENTS & QUANTITIES BLUSH/BRONZER NAME: YIELD: BASE INGREDIENTS & QUANTITIES: COLOR INGREDIENTS & QUANTITIES FOUNDATION: NAME: YIELD: BASE INGREDIENTS & QUANTITIES: COLOR INGREDIENTS & QUANTITIES Copyright 2007-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. Page 15 of 15