Schedule 202 Drapers is the voice of the fashion industry. To mark 25 years of fashion reporting, we have given ourselves a makeover. Relaunched with a brand new design, a wider mat, heavier paper stock and a stronger editorial mat, the magazine is more indispensable than ever, and now contains additional news analysis, a new weekly fashion section and special monthly reports. The website has also been redesigned with a brand new look and new functionality check it out at drapersonline.com. Drapers can provide brands and suppliers with unparalleled penetration into your target market via a multi-platm approach which includes the weekly magazine with an average net circulation of 9,384, drapersonline.com reaching over 7,00 unique users per month 2, m.drapersonline.com our fully optimised mobile site generating over 52,700 hits per month 2, plus three exclusive annual industry awards, and bespoke events. With over 50% of our audience comprising the MDs, CEOs, Owner/ Proprietors and Managers of UK fashion businesses 3, Drapers can provide access to the most influential people in the industry. Drapers can provide a whole range of media solutions to meet your marketing objectives. Please get in touch to discuss how we can work with you to create a tailored package suitable to your business. Contact Mandy Cluskey Group Commercial Director T 020 7728 3586 E mandy.cluskey@emap.com Helen Davies Commercial Director T 020 7728 3553 E helen.davies@emap.com Karen Fischer Commercial Manager T 020 7728 355 E karen.fischer@emap.com Julia Jones-Collins Advertising Manager T 020 7728 4637 E julia.jones-collins@emap.com Lucy Potucek Account Manager T 020 7728 3552 E lucy.potucek@emap.com Rebecca Soni Account Manager T 020 7728 3587 E rebecca.soni@emap.com Laura Gee Account Manager E laura.gee@emap.com Jo Lambert Print Production T 020 7728 40 E jo.lambert@emap.com ABC Jul 0 Jun 2 Webtrends Sep Feb 2 3 Readership Survey Sept 09 www.drapersonline.com m.drapersonline.com
Regular Drapers regular features include: Close up We bring you in-depth interviews with the biggest names in the fashion world. Leading business people, influential designers and retail pioneers all come under our scrutiny. Shopwatch Our industry expert John Ryan reviews the newest shops, the best shops, sometimes the strangest shops they all come under the spotlight as we examine the most influential fashion stores. E-Comm Our online content editor Keely Stocker brings you up to speed with the latest in the online world of retailing. Directions Drapers new fashion section, a weekly edit of the key stories, trends, products and people affecting the fashion business. Our Directions section includes: The Buzz All the fashion news you need to know and a heads up on new brand and product launches in-store and online. Style Council A new feature, we bring a panel of four influential figures from the industry together and ask them one killer question. Brandwatch Bringing you the globes freshest labels, Drapers unveils the facts behind the biggest, best and newest fashion brands you may, or may not, have heard of. This Fashion Life A sideways look at lives in fashion, Drapers casts a spotlight on an interesting character from the fashion business. Get to know someone new each week as Drapers interviews characters from the entire fashion spectrum. Fashion Index Our new weekly market inmation data section, giving you a barometer of what trading is like in the UK and globally. Indie Index Located in our Fashion Index section, Indie Index is Drapers essential and unique weekly guide to what is selling and happening in the world of fashion independents. Careers Drapers interviews those with sought-after jobs in fashion and tells you how to get jobs like theirs. www.drapersonline.com m.drapersonline.com
Words by caroline nodder Photography by Georgia Khun ow about this a strategy? Move into a new market overseas, open a number of stores, then when things go bad, close them. When things improve, move in again and start opening stores afresh once more. It s the kind of vacillation that would have business school profs reaching the case study book labelled How not to do it. That s pretty much the story of Marks & Spencer in France. Since last year it s been back in Paris, with a store on the Champs-Élysées. The choice of this location says much about the state of play as regards M&S s second coming in France. This is the most expensive thoroughfare in Europe on which to set up a shop. It should come as little surprise, theree, that the threefloor space it occupies falls into the small but beautifully med category or that s probably the way management views this development. If you d visited a French M&S back in the day, it would have been a vision of relative unimity. To its credit, this has changed. Now, fake brick walls, photoportrait graphics and mannequin groupings prevent monotony. It is JOHn RYAn has a background in fashion buying. As a journalist, he has covered the sector more than a decade a measure of the to pick out the importance attached different brands, to lingerie in this with individual market that the VM treatments basement is devoted Per Una, Indigo to it. Here are pictures and suchlike. This of women wearing the is pleasant but stock and mannequins unsurprising VM reclining on shelves and may fit with the and chaises longues. over-50s profile of the Upstairs a level it s customers in-store on pretty straightward the day of visiting. The concept seems to be to get as much as possible into the available space without making the enterprise feel crowded. Practically, this means womenswear on all three floors and a food hall on ground. At the heart of the store is a circular staircase, which makes a small space feel smaller. That said, it is used to good effect as a unifying feature, making a virtue of (presumed) architectural necessity. Nonetheless, it s hard not to feel a mite constrained. 0 This is the Champs-Élysées possibly the city s most highprofile shopping street. M&S would do well to inject a little more glamour into the store. 02 There is surely a good reason the omission of menswear, but French males need clothes too and when the next store is opened it would be useful them to feel included. 03 More needs to be done with the shopfront. The Champs-Élysées is home to high retail drama but you could easily walk past this shop without noticing it. Charming, helpful and (usefully) almost bilingual. There were plenty of staff on the floor and though most were busy tidying and restocking, they were alert to the needs of the many shoppers who were on each floor it was lunchtime. A visit of head office types seemed to be in progress, but even management were at pains to help customers and to make more of the boutique virtuelle. The M&S proposition was founded on quality and service; on the Champs- Élysées, it seems to live up to this reputation. A lot of prints across differentiation may the board, spring still have some way pastels and sorbets to go bee the were on show. A mild segmentation that is carp might be that, one of its declared with the exception of aims is a reality. There the Indigo area, much is also the matter of of it looked as if it footwear. Women could have been like shoes and this merchandised in any category looked to of the M&S brand be in short supply in areas across the shop the Champs-Élysées meaning product store. THE BASICS ADDRESS 00 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Paris TOTAL STORES IN FRANCE One (more planned) BRANDS in-house STORE DESIgN in-house The thing about the store needn t mean a Champs-Élysées is big dent in the bank that, the most balance. There will part, it is about still be money left luxury brands, H&M over to buy a little notwithstanding. This something from means that such the Louis Vuitton a long and important emporium along the street, competition street. M&S may win the M&S offer is in this location by scarce. The midmarket pricing and to compete with it in default as there is little range of styles means fashion s mid-market that shopping this middle ground. VERDICT AN UPTOWN WiNNer M&S s reappearance in Paris was always going to have its critics, but location and execution emphasise both the retailer s difference from others and its Britishness. A small shop is presented so it can be most things to most women. Men are not catered (other than online), but most of the males in the store seemed happy making their way to the food hall to buy Percy Pigs and other English delicacies. This is the first of several stores planned to open in Paris and it looks a fair start, though a little more wow would not have gone amiss. To see more pictures from M&S on Champs- Élysées, visit www.drapersonline.com/ news/shopwatch Amazon s huge offer makes it a onestop-shop a wide variety of products FACEBOOK ENGAGEMENT Multiple card saving options make the checkout process a simple experience USERS However, Donna Ida complains the site is cold and not sexy, making it an unattractive place to buy fashion from I buy from Amazon. It is a quick, free shipping on all orders (excluding Sale inmative, efficient and effective way to and international) in May. Our customers DONNA IDA get essential shopping done. But it s cold should be rewarded with free shipping Owner of four-store and not a sexy experience, which stops I want their lives to be as easy as possible, women s denim me buying fashion from the site. because that s how I like it. indie Donna Ida Amazon saves all my credit card I ve only ever had one bad experience details so I can choose at the checkout with Amazon a late package. It was who s going to get hit me, the business a gift, so it was urgent. Amazon or my husband. I think I have about 0 responded quickly and efficiently to ve been a big Amazon.co.uk fan credit cards saved on Amazon, along every email and the goods finally a long time. My sister with 5 to 20 shipping addresses so I can arrived and in time the party. introduced Amazon to me as the purchase gifts and have them shipped The secret of Amazon s success me place to buy your books about direct to the recipient with a card and is its enormous offer, the free shipping 0 years ago. She accompanied the message too. More online retailers option, the massive ebook selection, and inmation with, You haven t heard of should do this and it s something we the saved credit card details this is a big Amazon?! like I d been living under a introduced on www.donnaida.com. one. I don t want to feel like I m spending rock. Which I clearly had. I love the Super Saver Delivery option DO YOU AGREE? money. Because Amazon saves my TELL US I jumped on the bandwagon books on Amazon (which is free!). I rarely pay details, all I m doing is purchasing items WHAT YOU and CDs straight away and over the shipping unless it s really urgent, but THINK OF I need and being efficient. I don t even years I ve expanded my custom with even on the two to three-day Super Saver AMAZON.CO.UK have to add my card security code. A few them as they ve expanded their offering. the item comes pretty much straight BY VISITING OUR clicks and I m there. They re killing me WEBSITE AT Anything that is a product in my eyes, away. I m my perfect target customer, with kindness and I m responding like a www.drapersonline.com/ ie aside from clothing and luxury items, so www.donnaida.com is introducing in-business mewing kitten. I m loyal to the core. Schedule 202 APRIL 7 4 2 28 Womenswear: High Street Hit or Miss: Drapers reports on which womenswear retailers are rocking the high street and which are trundling along Business Basics: Finance supporting independent fashion retailers Menswear High Street Hit or Miss: We look at the menswear retailers and judge who is doing it best Drapers In-Depth: International Special Footwear High Street Hit or Miss: Footwear retailers are judged on who is providing the best product and service on the high street Womenswear: Our look at the fast fashion market MAY Drapers In-Depth: Occasionwear 5 a 2-page special feature taking a look at what the mother of the bride will be wearing this season 2 9 26 Footwear and Accessories Award Winners Brochure: Find out who won one of these prestigious awards Indie Index: Occasionwear The Drapers Fashion Awards: This edition will launch the Oscars of the industry Business Basics: Property Womenswear & Menswear: The Seasonless Industry Footwear Exhibitions, Show Calendar: This comprehensive exhibitions list is the essential guide to planning your buying trips the coming season The PayPal Etail Awards: A celebration retail businesses of all sizes excelling online Supply Chain: Delivery Footwear JUNE 2 Season s Preview Supplement, Womenswear, Menswear, Streetwear: We ecast what looks you will see at the coming fashion exhibitions and what you should look out in spring 3 25th Birthday Special: We mark 9 the 25th anniversary of Drapers with a special supplement celebrating 25 years of the fashion industry Drapers In-Depth: Graduate 6 Fashion Week we look at the future of the industry Kidswear, Bubble Show: Trends from 23 the kidswear show Menswear, Pitti Uomo Show: Drapers 30 reports from the Florence show The Drapers Multichannel Magazine: Our second report focused on multi-channel shopping Drapers In-Depth: Customer Insight Footwear Drapers / MARch 3 202 _ 24 CLOSE-UP I MARY PORTAS Let China have it! Let them have the sweatshops! We don t want that Mary Portas insists the time is right retailers, the Government and consumers to work together and create a new fashion manufacturing base in the UK mary Portas Pussybow snake-print blouse, 50; Gestuz black leather Panel trousers, 50 Drapers / APRIL 7 202 _ 8 marks & Spencer _ Paris H 0 SHOPWATCH VISUAL merchandising 02 COnCEPT Room improvement 03 SERVICE 04 PRODUCT 05 COmPETITIOn 06 32 50 Drapers / APRIL 7 202 _ 9 Drapers / APRIL 7 202 _ 20 Webwatch _ Amazon.co.uk I E-COMM Close-Up Shopwatch E-Comm For more inmation about any of the features listed above, or to find out how
Zigzag stitched reverse boat demarcation numbers are the strongest sign of the jacket s nautical pedigree On their own they re two of the UK s biggest fashion success stories but together their powers are on a whole new level. The Barbour and Paul Smith Jeans Land & Sea collaboration centres around Barbour s workwear history, reworking it a new, tightly edited range of menswear and womenswear. Say ahoy there to one of autumn 2 s key collaborations. Wholesale price: 84.8 Contact: 0800 009988 www.barbour.com The 8oz beeswax cotton is almost sail-like and theree robust enough to stand up to the worst elements Young fashion brand Religion has launched its first men s footwear collection autumn 2, comprising 20 casual and mal options to sit alongside its clothing. Standout styles include sporty hi-top leather sneakers featuring hiking-style D-ring elcome to Directions, Drapers new lacing, casual canvas lace-ups fashion section. This is your weekly edit and chunky-soled boots boasting of the key stories, trends, products and contrast leather and suede people affecting the fashion business panels, all in the brand s signature now. Whether unearthing the hot new brands to stock, palette of black, white and grey, with pops of deep red. bringing you the trends the big names are backing or breaking the news about the competition and beyond, Wholesale prices range from 20 to 48. Enquiries: 020 7092 9802 Directions has all the practical and inspirational inmation to help you work smarter. Directions opens with This Week s Hero, the single most important product, person, trend or trade show over the past seven days. Next up The Buzz, an inspiring / Trendwatch / melting pot of all the news you need to know and a heads-up on new brand and product launches in-store and online. Led by the Fashion Foreword, a new Swedish denim brand Nudie Jeans has comment column in which we ll be tackling issues that revealed that from autumn 2 its entire affect you and the industry as a whole, The Buzz is denim collection will be made from packed with quick snippets to keep you up to speed. 00% certified organically grown cotton. Style Council is a new feature where we bring This includes all jean fits, denim shirts together some of the industry s most influential figures and jackets, while all pocket linings, rivets and buttons across the offer will also and ask them one killer question each week, giving you come from organic raw materials. insight into what they re backing now and the future. Since the brand was founded in 200 it Brandwatch will continue to bring you the globe s has aimed to produce fully organic denim freshest labels while This Fashion Life casts a spotlight collections, with 43% of the spring 2 on an interesting character from within the fashion range produced from organic cottons. business get to know someone new with us each week. Your fridge might be filled with Our revamped fashion features will still bring you the organic buys, and now your stockroom can be too. essential info from the trade shows, catwalks and the high street, arming you with all you need to make the right business calls. Online we will continue to keep things interesting with image galleries, videos and our new blog, which will keep you inspired and in the loop. We hope you like what you see our metaphorical WATERFALL SKIRTS door is always open feedback, story leads, proposals Whether gently draped or a high-low hem, the waterfall skirt was a key spring or even just a chat. 2 trend spotted at US music and film festival SXSW. Tap up short-order brands Fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com / @Ian_W_Wright Finders Keepers and Rare a quick fix. ON THE BLOG Check out the fashion team s new blog, Unzipped www.drapersonline.com/unzipped HIT OR MISS Look out our feature on womenswear s high street big hitters next week sally Morgan Owner of young fashion independent Kiwi Boutique in Guisborough sebastian Manes Buying and merchandising director at Selfridges Luisa De Paula We ve highlighted peplums, military, the trophy jumper, leather and opulence among others, but if I had to pick two it would be leather and trophy jumpers. We ve bought leather across items, all over and in details. There s a lot of variety in knitwear, with oversized, slogans and motifs; the visual element of the trophy jumper (Balmain, pictured), works very well online. Sally Morgan My biggest spend has been on collarless jackets, while I can stand out from the high street on quality, design and point of difference with 3D textured knits with metallic accents. Finally, K-Middy is our inspiration autumn. She channels trends enough to stay up to date while remaining true to her style. luisa de paula Buying director at premium etailer My-Wardrobe.com Sebastian Manes In a wider context prints will be key; in particular Peter Pilotto (pictured) and Mary Katrantzou s printed padded Pamela Shiffer jackets are interesting. In our Tailored tweed coats in statement colours and Designer Galleries the two riding-style jackets in herringbone fabrics top main colours are red and deep my list, as do Burberry-inspired check quilted pamela shiffer blue, seen at Yohji Yamamoto jackets. Lace (Alphalace, pictured) will no longer Founder of the eponymous London and Ann Demeulemeester. We be strictly eveningwear, becoming easy to wear womenswear indie are also making a statement on a day-to-day basis. Introducing new textures with hats, giving us a VM focus. is key to keeping customers and staff excited. want to be part of the style council? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week s question bespoke prints created in-house include painterly cockerels, intricate tessellations and signature trompe-l oeil linton tweeds Key pieces include smart sb and db suits, printed shirts and sleek rollnecks layered under excellent oversized outerwear agi & sam uses Greenpac fabrics, which are made from recycled plastic bottles, throughout the collection THE BASICS initiative. [For autumn 2] they refined the While print still brings the spark of fun, there Wholesale prices 30 to 500 palette and silhouette while sticking to their is a slicker and more considered edge this season Website www.agiandsam.com signature prints. that is altogether more commercial. The cut is telephone 07825 285982 Designer Christopher Raeburn is also a fan: sharper, the palette more considered, and all What I like is its fearless approach to menswear, with a more premium spin. t the Topman-sponsored MAN show particularly with print. Its professionalism in I think we grew up a lot, says Cotton. during February s London Fashion terms of make quality, presentation and Autumn 2 was so hard. Me and Agi didn t Week, there was one name that stood marketing should put it in good stead. speak a month while we were making it. out or more specifically two Agi & Established in 200 by Agape Mdumulla and But hopefully it paid off. Sam, with buyers buzzing around this up-andcoming brand s autumn 2 catwalk debut. to its fresh take on traditional menswear. The book was still open when Drapers went to press Sam Cotton, the label demands attention thanks The facts suggest it has. The autumn 2 sales Agi & Sam first caught our eye with its daring idea was to produce a brand that was entirely but sales have increased by more than 200% and fun use of colour and print, says Lulu print-based and contained elements of humour and stockist numbers doubled. As one buyer Kennedy, founder of Fashion East, which and light-heartedness, says Cotton, because a joked at LFW: The boys became men at the supports new talent and is part of the MAN lot of people in fashion take it so seriously. MAN show. boutique over a year and this is the best street in London fashion-ward retailers. We love Dover Street and feel that the cutting-edge product we sell it is the ideal location. It also happens to be in an 8th-century Mayfair new store and our first overseas store in Montenegro, which opened last summer. We ve also been working hard on our ecommerce site which has recently been revamped and continue to look at other overseas locations, new brands why did you decide to do this? We always felt that new designers and emerging brands were not fully appreciated by the traditional big retailers, who more often than not focused too heavily on established names. This situation was compounded by the recession. Other countries have many more initiatives to support their homegrown talent than the UK so we set about trying to promote Serdar Uzuntas, an amazing menswear designer we are stocking in our new Dover come from? We used to have a pet rabbit and one day we woke up to find the cage had been broken into and the rabbit eaten. As kids we speculated that it was either a wolf or a badger that did it. Years later we named our store after (who co-founded Wolf & Badger)? It s good working with George as we have very different interests and skills; as such, we focus on different areas of the business. The worst work-related fight was probably over a pair of walking Mojo my Parson Russell Terrier, sewing, ipod? If I had my way it would be Bon Jovi, but the girls in the office only let me listen to ever been given? Just do it Nike. Schedule 202 JULY 7 4 2 Drapers In-Depth: Christmas Special with Christmas providing retailers with your highest sales peak, we bring you a comprehensive supplement on how to maximise sales; from logistics and multi-channelling to in-season party product Menswear, Milan: Men s fashion, we pick out the best from the catwalks Menswear, Paris: This time it s the best from the Parisian catwalks Kidswear, Pitti Bimbo: A report from the Florence kidswear show Footwear Menswear Special: Our dedicated menswear seasonal special will focus on key trends spring 3 Drapers In-Depth: Sourcing a look at the different territories and factoriesdriving the sourcing demands of multiples Menswear, Streetwear, Womenswear: Pret-a-Porter & Who s Next, we bring you the lowdown on the Parisian shows Streetwear: Bread & Butter, we pull out key trends and new brands to make your tills sing Business Basics: Property Textiles, Pitti Filati: Key trends from the textile show Womenswear Special: Our fashion special will focus on the key trends the spring 3 season Womenswear, Mainstream Womenswear Showrooms: We visit the top London showrooms 28 Menswear: We bring you our Jacket Required and Stitch reports Streetwear: The Brandery Trend Streetwear Special: Drapers brings you the third of our seasonal specials focused on key young fashion looks and trends Textiles: The London Textiles Fair AUGUST 4 8 25 Drapers In-Depth: Social Media Streetwear: We bring you all the news and brands from Margin Womenswear, Pure Preview: We bring you news on what to look out at Pure London Womenwear, Menswear, Footwear, Lingerie: We pull together the best bits from Moda, Birmingham Womenswear, Copenhagen Show : The Great Danes show off their best brands and we bring back what is right the UK market Womenswear, Young Fashion, Menswear: We bring you the best brands from Pure London and Spirit Footwear SEPTEMBER 8 5 22 29 Footwear & Accessories Special: The final fashion special of the season, we show you the best brands in the sector Business Basics: Technology Footwear The Drapers Market : Our second report will look at brands and the future of the business Drapers In-Depth: BCSC Special Drapers investigates the future of bricks and mortar Footwear, GDS: Drapers picks the best from the German footwear show Streetwear: Trends from the London Edge show New York Fashion Week: Drapers brings you the best from the Big Apple s catwalks London Fashion Week: We show you what our capital s catwalks have to offer Footwear, Micam Show : Drapers reports back from the Milan footwear show The Drapers Multi-Channel Magazine: Our third supplement looking at multi-channel shopping Textiles, Premiere Vision: Trends from the French textile show STYLED BY THE DRAPERS FASHION TEAM DIRECTIONS Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now This week s hero THE SEAFARER JACKET Drapers / MARCH 3 202 _ 6 Drapers / MARCH 3 202 _ 62 W THE BUZZ / Fashion eword / ON THE RADAR Religion footwear And now something completely different _ Ian Wright Don t get! This week Nudie Jeans goes totally organic Drapers / March 3 202 _ 64 DIRECTIONS I the style council This week s panel What are your top trends autumn 2? A Agi & Sam BRANDWATCH I DIRECTIONS The print-based menswear brand has grown up autumn 2, says GrAeme moran Drapers / MARCH 3 202 _ 67 Henry Graham Wolf & Badger s co-founder tells GRAEME MORAN why the fashion-ward indie chose Mayfair its second store You re opening a new Wolf & Badger store on Dover Street in Mayfair, London, on April 2. Tell us about it. It will be a 2,000 sq ft store selling some of our favourite designers that have passed through our Notting Hill boutique. It will also showcase and sell some other cool up-andcoming British luxury brands that we haven t previously worked with, but who we greatly admire. It will include a gallery space which we rent out to artists, gallerists, pop-up shops or events. THIS FASHION LIFE I DIRECTIONS We always felt that new designers weren t fully appreciated by the traditional big retailers Why Dover Street? We ve been looking the ideal location our second London townhouse and the property itself is amazing. What s next? We are super-busy with our particularly in the Middle East and Asia. Wolf & Badger is known supporting and sell British brands in our own small way. Who is your tip the future? Street store and online. Where did the name Wolf & Badger the culprits. It was probably a fox. How is it working with your brother cufflinks we both wanted. How do you relax? Shopping antiques, watching Geordie Shore, designing jewellery. What would we find on your office one 980s rock song a day. What s the best piece of advice you ve Drapers / APRIL 7 202 _ 33 Directions The Buzz The Style Council Brandwatch This Fashion Life For more inmation about any of the features listed above, or to find out how
/ Talking Trade / he budget was a reminder, if required, of the fallibility of economic ecasting. Two years ago the official ecast UK growth in 202 was 3.5%. In last week s budget it stood at 0.8%. Despite the Treasury s best efts, the economic future rarely conms to expectations. At a time when UK retail is experiencing huge structural changes, economic uncertainty is one thing retailers could do without. Uncertainty can lead to irrational behaviour, when retailers need to get their heads down and be brutal when it comes to evaluating their businesses. Doing the day-to-day well and trimming fat wherever it appears is the order of the day. For struggling retailers, this is a time to take decisive action. Emotions must be left at the door; replaced with sharp, focused decision-making. The speed at which value can disappear from a retail business is frightening. One of our oft-repeated mantras is that early intervention preserves value. Although not a fashion retailer, the travails of Game should act as a cautionary tale. With more than 600 stores in the UK, Game didn t act quickly enough to save itself. In addition to closing multiple stores, it needed to improve its relationships with key suppliers much earlier. It waited too long to do either. Other retailers have been able to navigate these waters much more successfully through earlier intervention, even when dealing with wafer-thin margins and supplier relationships that were in desperate need of some TLC. By engaging their suppliers early and initiating some open and honest conversations, as well as developing a credible plan turning the business around, these retailers have survived situations that could have been terminal. For fashion retailers in particular, early intervention will also mean taking a hard look at the distribution model from a customer s point of view, so that changes can be made to reflect how customers want to buy, not how retailers want to sell. More pain is on the way, and now is the time to act. Retailers need to realise that if they bury their heads in the sand in this market, they might end up staying there good. Head of retail, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper WEEkly footfall retail index National UK footfall figures shopping centres and retail centres Week 2 March 9 to 25, 202 Week-on-Week change year-on-year change This week marked the official start to spring. The weekend s summer-like conditions, warmer than parts of the Mediterranean, no doubt contributed in detracting shoppers from visiting undercover shopping centres, resulting in 7% fewer shoppers when compared with the same weekend last year. Encouragingly, this week s 3% downturn was less pronounced than last year s, when the weekly index after Mother s Day dropped 7.3%. Regionally, the Scottish Index was most impacted by the weather, reporting a 0% year-on-year drop the weekend. HiGH StrEEt SalES tracker Like--like sales figures across the high street Week ending March 25, 202-3.3% Total fashion There was a considerable deterioration in demand across fashion, with most categories impacted. Trade was hit by lower footfall trends and timing differences with promotions. Email Don Williams, head of retail and wholesale at BDO at don.williams@bdo.co.uk drapersjobs.com The UK s employment hot spot and the most popular roles BIRMINGHAM Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week) -4.6% Clothing +6.0% Footwear. Design 9.3% 2. Production 7.4% 3. Merchandising 5.8% 4. Retail management 4.4% 5. Sales 4.3% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week SalES & trends Total fashion sales grew 2.7% in value terms, but volumes fell in the 24 weeks ending February 9 PRODUCT TRENDS Sales growth by pure-plays Expenditure +2.7% Sales growth by footwear multiples international The five top stories from around the globe South africa -2.4% 24 weeks ending February 9, 202 versus 20, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion +5.2% Sales growth by supermarkets France France germany Average selling price Julie MacPherson, client manager fashion, Kantar Worldpanel china 30% 0% our columnist s WEEKLy RETAIL OUTLOOK 24 weeks ending February 9, 202 versus 20 20 202 GAP has opened its first store in South Africa, a move it sees as a stepping stone growth into the rest of sub-saharan Africa. It has also announced further market entries 202 in Lebanon, Georgia and Azerbaijan. GAleRIes lafayette has reported sales in the fiscal year 20 grew 4% to 5.58bn ( 4.72bn) while operating income rose 4.8% to 372m ( 34m). The permance was buoyed by strong sales at the Boulevard haussmann flagship in Paris. NeIMAN MARcus, the US luxury department store, has announced it will expand into China by the end of 202, investing $28m ( 8m) in local ecommerce company Glamour Sales holding. c&a, the German retailer, is set to follow Spanish chain Mango and lower prices on its Fashion Star Range by 20%. The other 90% of C&A s offer will not be reduced as it is merchandised below 9 ( 6). cos will launch three concessions in Galeries Lafayette department stores in France, the first of which will open in April. Cos will also open its first store in Poland, in Warsaw, this summer. Five to 2-year-olds 2 Catimini 3 Little Darlings 4 Ralph Lauren 5 No Added Sugar 6 Joules 7 Scotch & Soda 8 Tommy Hilfiger 9 Hugo Boss 0 Armani Junior Dresses 2 T-shirts 3 Shorts 4 Jeans 5 Leggings 3 Angel Face 4 Catimini 5 Little Darlings AVERAGE TAKINGS -4% year-on-year change AVERAGE SPEND Week ending March 30, 202 3 Timberland 4 Esprit FooTFAll Change week ending March 30, 202 5 Boss compared with same week in 20 INDIE WATCH Monthly sales figures the UK independent retail sector Newborn to four-year-olds Catimini 2 Mayoral 3 Pampolina 4 Little Darlings 5 Ralph Lauren 6 No Added Sugar 7 Sarah Louise 8 Toffee Moon 9 Me Too 0 Jean Bourget Dresses 2 T-shirts 3 Babygros 4 Hats 5 Accessories 3 Angel Face 4 Catimini 5 Little Darlings AVERAGE monthly TAKINGS PRoFIT margin AVERAGE NumBER of units SolD Data February 20 to March 8, 202, compared with the same period in 20. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 30 3535) AVERAGE TAKINGS -3% year-on-year change AVERAGE SPEND Week ending March 30, 202 2 Timberland 3 Ralph Lauren 4 Esprit FooTFAll Change week ending March 30, 202 5 Me Too compared with same week in 20 THE big NumbEr % of kidswear indies offer a shoe-fitting service didn t perm as well as expected and I was made redundant. I then This morning we had a sample worked agency Focus Group Sale some of our brands, selling labels such as [womenswear such as [menswear brand] brand] URU, bee becoming an New Man, [French menswear and agent denim brand Mish Mash, womenswear brand] Vicomte A and then a denim consultant and [casualwear brand] Seal Kay, [denim brand] Hartball, bee and we re in the middle of our press highlight? Running the first most looking ward to today? Peter Werth shop. Walking down I love being involved in the Regent Street to work I used to appointments with buyers. With feel the hairs on the back of my how things are in the industry right neck standing up every day. It was now, getting an appointment is thing about your career path, could postpone? Well, getting what would it be? I might not our Sales samples down from the have become an agent Mish fourth floor [of the Old Truman Mash. I was competing against cheaper brands selling jeans at 4 to 8 wholesale, when I was you are today? I began working in trying to sell them at 20 to 22. retail at 7 and moved to London I earned only commission and from Derbyshire in 998 to run Peter Werth s first store, just off Carnaby Street. When the white Summers, who was a director of collar-and-cuffs trends took off the Peter Werth. I learnt a lot from brand was doing fantastically, so him and I liked the way he involved I moved into wholesale. We then me in everything, and how he told started a womenswear line but that me why he made each decision. The UK s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy The Headline UK s sponsor leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy Headline sponsor Headline Headline sponsor sponsor come a long way in the past year. Twelve months ago we only had six 20 Sales manager, brands and today we have 20, and TCA Sales Group with time and eft we can become 2008 Sales manager/denim even bigger. I see my career consultant, Hartball progressing with the agency. If I can 2005 Sales manager, Focus Group 2000 Wholesale manager, to someone wanting to follow in Peter Werth your footsteps? You ve got to love 998 London flagship store the trade and have a passion it. manager, Peter Werth Watch TV, read magazines and go 989 Store manager, Jon Paul Fashions, Swadlincote 982 Sales assistant, area of fashion, what would it Jon Paul Fashions, Swadlincote be? It would probably be visual merchandising, which I often do in the showrooms to create an That experience helps me in my atmosphere within the space. Salary range: 60,000 to 80,000 (estimate provided by CVUK) advice he gave you? That it s all about the detail. He always told If you want to be featured on me to look past the short term and the Drapers Jobs page, email focus on the longer-term picture. james.knowles@emap.com Schedule 202 OCTOBER 6 3 20 27 Business Basics: Womenswear a practical look at the key drivers and challenges in the womenswear market Milan Fashion Week: Drapers highlights the best shows from Milan Womenswear, Hit or Miss: We secret-shop the high street to test which womenswear retailers are packing a punch Paris Fashion Week: A Parisian feast as we showcase the best from the catwalks Menswear, High Street Hit or Miss: This time it s the menswear retailers who are under our scrutiny Business Basics: Menswear a practical look at the key drivers and challenges in the menswear market Footwear, High Street Hit or Miss: We visit the footwear retailers to see which ones on the high street hit or miss our high standards Business Basics: Security Womenswear and Eveningwear: Market analysis on Christmas party wear and where you can get it Indie Index: Occasionwear Drapers In-Depth: Technology in Fashion NOVEMBER 3 0 7 24 Footwear Business Basics: Supply Chain & Logistics Feature Drapers Awards Winners Brochure: The 22nd celebration of all that is great in fashion and retail DECEMBER 8 5 22 Top 00 Power List: The top 00 most influential people in fashion revealed Exhibitions, Show Calendar: Your essential guide to all the shows taking place in the next six months Business Basics: Interiors visual merchandising and design Review of the Year: We look at the issues that shaped 202 Drapers / MARCh 3 202 _ 20 Early intervention will keep the wolves at bay _ Dan Coen T Fashion index -3.0% -4.5% The most applied jobs ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES 6.4bn.6bn Number of units +.8% +7.7% +4.4% 0.49 Online continues to grow but it has slowed over the last four years as the market matures The next big market us is Africa. We see South Africa being in the top five of our franchises Stefan Laban, head of franchise business, Gap Retail sector share % SPORTS STORES SUPERMARKET DISCOUNTER PURE-PLAY ETAIL HOME SHOPPING FOOTWEAR DEPT STORES GENERAL STORES INDIES FASHION CHAINS Drapers / MARCh 3 202 _ 2 Drapers / APRIL 7 202 _ 2 Indie INDEX Kidswear Top 0 Best-selling brands of the week Best-selling categories of the week Brands with the best sell-through Brands with the best margin 2,649 86-2% Top 0 Best-selling brands of the week Best-selling categories of the week Brands with the best sell-through Brands with the best margin +3.3% +3.9% +8.6% 2,546 73-0% 36 ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES Drapers / APRIL 7 202 _ 36 CAREERS I CLIMBING THE LADDER How I got here _ Carl Easton The head of sales at agency TCA Sales Group reveals the highs and lows of his career path to date What does your diary look like today? It s really full today. days, meeting press and buyers. Which meeting are you fantastic. It s a real adrenaline rush. Which task do you wish you Brewery] wasn t fun, but we did it. How did you get to where starting at TCA Sales Group. What has been your career a really exciting time. If you could change one didn t have a fixed salary. Who is your mentor? David CV decision-making now. What was the best piece of How do you see your career progressing? The agency has do this long term, I ll be very happy. What advice would you give in shops to keep up with the trends. If you could work in another Find your Find perfect your job perfect job www.successappointments.co.uk www.successappointments.co.uk Fashion Index Indie Index Careers Hit or Miss For more inmation about any of the features listed above, or to find out how