URBAN RUNWAY A VIEW FROM THE URBAN AUDIENCE
INSIDE: FASHION AND BEAUTY Our award-winning work.shop.play. insight community provides us with a unique glimpse into the lives and styles of the urban audience. This research is geared around giving you a better understanding of the changing attitudes and behaviours of the urban audience when it comes to fashion, beauty and everything in between. Through delving deeper into key audiences, understanding how urbanites spend on their clothing, accessories and beauty purchases, we can outline some of the key trends seen in the market at the moment. This provides a unique snapshot into a large and evolving industry. Using insights and data to really get under the skin of our audience, we re able to understand how best to target them, while they re out and about during their often time-poor and hectic (yet still stylish) lives. 2
INSIDE: FASHION AND BEAUTY 1. Fashion In this research we take a deeper look into some of the key trends we re seeing among the urban audience when it comes to fashion. Understanding spending habits behind their decision-making. 2. Beauty Delving deeper into the urban audience s beauty baskets and looking at what s influencing their decision making. This section also investigates the future of the market, with potentially unpredictable times ahead in the UK, understanding how brands can work to stand out from the crowd in this saturated marketplace. 3. Opportunities New inspiration, influences and ideas are key to the continued evolution of the fashion and beauty markets. Using a huge variety of resources, urbanites make the most of the tools available to them to help them keep up to date with the latest trends. This chapter aims to uncover further insights around these ever-changing markets and it showcases how using Out-of- Home (OOH) effectively can increase awareness, improve brand perceptions and drive action. 4. Best Dressed in Out-of-Home This is a retrospective of some best-in-class campaigns from high street fashion retailers, to high end make-up and fragrance brands. This showcases the stylish, sophisticated and occasionally surprising ways that fashion and beauty brands can connect with their audiences using OOH. 3
FASHION
TARGET AUDIENCES GENERATION Z HIGH STREET SHOPPERS (16-24 Urbanites) This audience of 16-24 fashion followers are a key market for advertisers looking to target young, fashiondriven consumers who are out and about and on the lookout for the next big thing. The high street is key for this audience, with 70% shopping for fashion there on a regular basis Almost a quarter (23%) of this target audience are shopping for clothes & accessories at least once a week They are the most likely audience to use social media to keep up with the latest trends in fashion (45%) Almost half (48%) agree that blogs/vlogs are great at giving them ideas and keeping them in the know This mirrors the wider trend seen in the fashion industry with the rising influence of bloggers and vloggers, from fashion advice to experimentation of new styles. There s no denying this avenue of influence has become a staple of many younger urbanites lives. 5 Sources: Mintel: Colour Cosmetics, Jul 2016, Fast Fashion Online, Oct 2016 work.shop.play. survey Inside: Fashion and Beauty
TARGET AUDIENCES CONNECTED BIG SPENDERS (online clothing and accessories shoppers) Whilst the high street is key for fashion, we can t ignore the growing online audience that is turning to their laptops and mobiles to shop. Younger 16-34 men in particular are likely to buy fashion from online-only retailers like ASOS (42% vs. 36% all urbanites) The online clothing and accessories shoppers are higher spenders spending 83 a month on average, 6 higher than the general urban audience This audience are also more regular clothing shoppers, with 63% shopping monthly (vs. 45% among all urbanites) This attractive audience will only continue to grow as the trend for consumers wanting fashionable clothing at the touch of a button continues to develop. Key players like Amazon Fashion are helping to drive this trend, by improving its offering and credibility. This is likely to become increasingly competitive, continuing to open up opportunities for advertisers. 6 Sources: Mintel: Colour Cosmetics, Jul 2016, Fast Fashion Online, Oct 2016 work.shop.play. survey Inside: Fashion and Beauty
A savvy audience that s shopping more and choosing the high street Fashion is a big part of the average urbanite s life. 53% of female urbanites shop for new clothes and accessories at least once a month, and this increases to 63% among 16-24s. With so many urbanites on the lookout for new items on a monthly basis, there s a huge opportunity to target them whilst they re seeking style inspiration. Pay day is an important time for urbanites when considering clothing purchases; 45% say they tend to spend more on clothes straight after pay day, and this increases to 57% among the younger 16-24 audience. With 55% of urbanites agreeing that they don t need much persuasion to treat themselves after pay day, and 25% saying they often daydream about how they re going to spend their money on the lead up to pay day, there s a big opportunity for brands to make themselves front of mind around this time. 7 Sources: work.shop.play. surveys: Inside: Fashion and Beauty, 2 Things in March, Inside: Passion for Fashion
Spending more on clothes, footwear and accessories particularly in the Capital Average spend per month ALL URBANITES LONDONERS TUBE USERS 5 increase from 2015 76 91 94 8 Sources: work.shop.play. surveys: Inside: Fashion and Beauty, 2 Things in March, Inside: Passion for Fashion
The high street reigns supreme for fashion, although online purchasing is a growing theme In-Store 67% have shopped on the high street for clothes in the last few months. For Londoners, this increases to 74% 54% have purchased at a shopping centre/mall Online Online 50% have shopped directly through an online store 36% have shopped through an online retailer (e.g. Amazon) 9 Sources: work.shop.play. surveys: Inside: Fashion and Beauty, 2 Things in March, Inside: Passion for Fashion
Ever-Changing Trends AND Reviving Old Classics Whether they re a dedicated follower of fashion, or take a more laid back approach to style, the urban audience has an opinion on the hottest trends. Vintage denim makes a comeback (again!), whilst 90s-inspired chokers and arm cuffs grow in popularity as we head into the late teens of the 21st century. Velvet jackets 23% 26% among 35+ abc1 Extra long t-shirts 26% Ear cuffs 43% Boyfriend shirts 50% 57% among men aged 16-34 Arm cuffs 50% Vintage denim 61% 65% among Londoners NOT HOT 27% among men aged 16-34 Work jackets 20% Skinnies 24% Graphic sweatshirts 34% 49% Mineral jewellery 40% 54% among 16-24s among women High waist jeans 48% Chokers 54% 79% among 16-24s 10 Sources: work.shop.play. surveys: Inside: Fashion and Beauty, One Minute Monday: all that glitters
BEAUTY
TARGET AUDIENCES Feel Good beauty treaters (often treat themselves to new beauty products) This audience enjoys treating themselves with smaller feel good beauty items. In fact, the younger 16-24 audience is particularly likely to splash out on new cosmetics/beauty products after pay day Two thirds of this audience purchase new beauty products at least once a month A prime target for advertisers, this audience is actively seeking inspiration to help with their treat purchases, which provide a little bit of joy that doesn t break the bank during uncertain times This sector fares well during times of difficulty; this lipstick effect was widely seen in the wake of the 2008 recession. With an unclear future ahead in the UK, it s important for make-up brands to make the most of this feeling, providing accessible and comforting treats to this audience. 12 Sources: Mintel: Colour Cosmetics, Jul 2016, Brexit, the Aftermath, Nov 2016, Lifestyles of the Over-55s, Feb 2016 work.shop.play. surveys: 2 Things in March, Inside: Fashion and Beauty, 2 Things in December
TARGET AUDIENCES Diversity seekers (ABC1 35+ urbanites) The lack of diverse representation among beauty retailers is often criticised. In particular, the ABC1 35+ audience is a strong and affluent target for beauty advertisers yet there is often a disconnect between how this audience views themselves, and how advertisers try to target them. A third (33%) of the ABC1 35+ audience have bought a luxury beauty product as a gift in the last 6 months 44% of make-up users want brand ambassadors with better age representation 18% think there s not enough ethnic diversity in beauty advertising Urbanites welcome diversity in beauty advertising and the target audience is often more open to opportunities than society and brands give them credit for. There s a growing view that brands need to better promote and celebrate diversity. This audience provides the ideal opportunity for advertisers to bridge this gap, thinking about how they can try to target this affluent group of makeup lovers and gifters more effectively. 13 Sources: Mintel: Colour Cosmetics, Jul 2016, Brexit, the Aftermath, Nov 2016, Lifestyles of the Over-55s, Feb 2016 work.shop.play. surveys: 2 Things in March, Inside: Fashion and Beauty, 2 Things in December
Strong brand loyalty and a treat yourself attitude among the urban audience when it comes to beauty purchases Beauty products are often seen among urbanites as a treat. Whether it s to lift their mood or celebrate pay day, there s a big opportunity for brands to make the most of the spontaneous nature of beauty purchases among this inspiration-seeking audience. The high street is key for urbanites choosing to splash their cash on these kinds of products; 66% bought from the high street the last time they purchased, and this increases to 74% of 16-24s. When looking to inspire and influence, it s imperative to do this in the most relevant and timely locations; when they re out shopping or when they re on their way there. When communicating to consumers, there s also room for brands to educate them more on their products; how they can use them and informing them of the new innovations in the market. As urbanites are often creatures of habit, encouraging them to be brave and try new products and styles through engaging communication will help not only boost consideration, but also positivity towards the brand. 14
Spending more on beauty products particularly in the Capital Average spend per month ALL URBANITES 16-24 YEAR OLDS TUBE USERS 8 increase from 2015 29 31 35 15 Sources: work.shop.play. surveys Inside: Fashion and Beauty, Inside: Passion for Fashion
The high street reigns supreme for beauty, although online purchasing is a growing theme 80% 53% 52% 64% among 16-24s I love treating myself to new make-up every once in a while When buying make-up, I often come away with more than I originally intended to buy! I love hearing about new products in the make-up market 16 Sources: work.shop.play. surveys Inside: Fashion and Beauty, Inside: Passion for Fashion
There are lots of influencing factors among the urban audience when it comes to purchasing make-up I ve run out The price Best colour match Special offer 61% 49% 42% 41% SPF protection Natural ingredients Things seen out & about Recommendations Always used the brand 19% 20% 20% 27% 34% 17 Sources: work.shop.play. surveys Inside: Fashion and Beauty, Inside: Passion for Fashion
When it comes to ethical or economic factors, the following rank the most important: No animal testing 72% Fair trade 53% Organic 40% Made in the UK 36% 18 Sources: work.shop.play. surveys Inside: Fashion and Beauty, Inside: Passion for Fashion
One type doesn t fit all, but one thing s for sure there are some make-up bag staples that everyone shares Whilst it s perhaps not surprising that 16-24s are more likely to make the most of multiple products and new innovations in make-up, the key staples of mascara and lipstick remain equally popular among both older and younger audiences. What type of ABC1 35+ Mascara and lipstick popularity is similar among different target audiences make up have 16-24 Urban Audience 56% 60% you bought 47% in the last 3 months? 27% 29% 32% 33% 41% 21% 39% 24% 43% 32% 43% 25% 54% 36% 57% 47% 53% 58% 63% 54% 70% Eyebrow Pencil Powder Eyeshadow Concealer Eyeliner Lipstick Mascara Foundation 19 Sources: work.shop.play. surveys Inside: Fashion and Beauty, Inside: Passion for Fashion
OPPORTUNITIES
Inspiration is just around the corner There are a lot of different ways that urbanites keep in the know about the latest fashion and beauty trends, and these are ever-changing and evolving with the times (much like fashion and beauty trends). The most popular way that the urban audience chooses to keep up to date is by looking for inspiration when out and about. It seems that inspiration is, quite literally, around every corner. 21
PRIMARY INSPIRATION Things seen out and about Browsing on the high street 54% 50% London 63% London 52% 22 Source: work.shop.play. survey Inside: Fashion and Beauty
SECONDARY INSPIRATION General browsing online Browsing stores online Social media Fashion / Beauty publications 48% 31% 26% 15% London 49% London 36% London 33% London 20% 23 Source: work.shop.play. survey Inside: Fashion and Beauty
Targeting urbanites whilst out and about We know that the primary inspiration sources for urbanites when looking for the latest in new fashion and beauty trends are things they see whilst out and about, and on the high street. It s imperative that brands make sure their presence is felt and recognised in these Outof-Home (OOH) locations, (particularly as they are more likely to make spur of the moment fashion and beauty purchase decisions whilst on the move). This is even more important in the Capital, where urbanites are more time poor and harder to reach. Case Study 1 Improving brand perceptions for a fashion retailer using Bus Those who saw the Bus adverts were more likely to agree with positive statements about the fashion retail brand. 73% 53% The ad tells me the retailer s clothes are stylish 20% increase Recalled ads 69% 52% Did not recall ads The ad tells me that the retailer s clothes are affordable 17% increase We know through our campaign effectiveness research that a blend of different OOH activity can work to help fashion retailers build brand appeal, improve brand perceptions and ultimately drive consumers in-store. Working well alongside other forms of media such as TV and Press, OOH can complement wider campaigns and really build brand fame in the locations that resonate the most to high street shoppers. Case Study 2 Driving purchase and store visits for a fashion retailer using Westfield Shopping Centre Those who recalled the shopping centre ads were more likely to respond by visiting one of the fashion retailer s stores. 41% 21% I would visit the brand s store 20% increase Recalled ads 37% 17% Did not recall ads I would buy the brand s clothes for myself 20% increase 24 Source: Dipsticks
Online grows in influence among fashionistas they just need to be aware of it! Online channels are increasingly important in this market, acting as a secondary inspiration source for many urbanites. With the rise of a right here, right now mentality in the fashion & beauty industries, advertisers can tap into the busy urban audience lifestyles, whilst they re on the move and seeking help with their decision-making. Case Study 3 74% Driving action and purchase for an online beauty retailer using the London Underground of London Tube users who recalled the ad took action towards the online beauty retailer 12% SIG 57% Interacted online London Tube users - did not recall London Tube users - recalled 36% 5% Talk to someone Among one of our key audiences of 16-24s, the rise of the fashion & beauty blogger/vlogger phenomenon is having a strong impact. Making fashion more accessible, and providing trusted advise and opinions, bloggers and vloggers are a unique opportunity for advertisers to engage with this vibrant and ever-changing audience. Using dwell time sites to educate and inform urbanites or digital screens to amplify campaigns, has proven to significantly improve interaction with online fashion and beauty retailers, ultimately driving action and purchase decisions among often hard-to-reach audiences. The rise of the blogger/vlogger: Bloggers/ Vloggers are making fashion accessible All urbanites I trust the opinions and reviews of fashion and beauty bloggers/vloggers All urbanites 43% 19% 16-24 Year Olds 16-24 Year Olds 62% 41% 25 Sources: work.shop.play. survey Inside: Fashion and Beauty, Dipsticks
More than a mall WESTFIELD LONDON WESTFIELD STRATFORD Combined annual footfall 73 million Annual Footfall 27.5 million Europe s largest urban shopping and leisure destination and the busiest shopping centre in the UK 26 Annual Footfall 45.5 million More than 10x The annual number of visits for the British Museum 74% higher footfall Than Manchester Arndale (Footfall 42 million)
A desirable audience Westfield London ABC1 Westfield Stratford Both shopping centres deliver an affluent audience 68% 59% 27
WESTFIELD SHOPPERS BEHAVIOUR Average dwell time 99 minutes Average retail spend Never visit Westfield London Average dwell time Average retail spend Never visit Westfield Stratford 113 63% 108 86 55% minutes 28
A RETAIL POWERHOUSE The annual retails sales of both Westfield centres comes to a massive 2.1 billion 29
BEST DRESSED IN OUT-OF-HOME
BEST DRESSED IN OUT-OF- HOME Our Best Dressed gallery showcases some of our most memorable campaigns over the last year on Exterion Media s assets up and down the country, and in the Capital. Working collaboratively with our clients in the fashion and beauty industry, we have developed some beautifully creative, imaginative and dynamic campaigns that have worked to capture the attention of the urban audience, helping them to navigate their purchase decisions and drive their purchase journeys. 31
32 MISSGUIDED - NOVEMBER
33 COACH - NOVEMBER
34 CALVIN KLEIN - NOVEMBER
35 SWAROVSKI - DECEMBER
36 PANDORA - NOVEMBER
37 ARMANI - DECEMBER
OUR METHODOLOGY work.shop.play. surveys used: Inside: Fashion and Beauty, November 2016 2 Things in March, March 2016 Inside: Passion for Fashion, August 2015 2 Things in December, December 2014 Beauty Survey, September 2014 3 Things in April, April 2014 In addition to this, we supported our online panel research with the following sources: London Underground - The Engagement Zone http://www.exterionmedia.com/uk/insight-and-data/engagement-zone/ TGI 2016 Data Dipsticks Research http://www.exterionmedia.com/uk/insight-and-data/our-case-studies/ Mintel Reports: Beauty Online, January 2016 Colour Cosmetics, July 2016 Fashion: Technology and Innovation, September 2016 Fast Fashion Online what can others learn from the pureplays?, October 2016 Luxury fashion home-delivered within 90 minutes, December 2016 38