Female haircuts Short, rounded layers

Female haircuts Short, rounded layers Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 1 of 22

Short, rounded layers This haircut has an androgynous look and can be effective for both men and women. It is a versatile haircut which has a rounded shape but also a soft outline. Our stylist has chosen to leave length through the side areas, taking hair over the ears. If the hair had been taken behind the ears, the look would have been much shorter and stronger. The short, rounded layers haircut is a modern interpretation of the show bowl-like shape that was created in the 1960s by Vidal Sassoon. You will often find that, as fashion evolves, it is the length of the haircut that changes. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 2 of 22

Haircut guide Before starting your haircut: complete your client and hair analysis; with your client, decide how long the cut should be; and make sure your client is wearing a protective gown and is sitting comfortably. Creating short, rounded layers This haircut is created by layering the hair first, then cutting the perimeter. Cutting Start your haircut at the front area using a top box section. From your top box section take a profile line. Hold the hair at 90 degrees to the headshape. If you want to create length at the front of your haircut, direct the hair backwards at the front hairline. You should have determined the length of the cut at your client consultation. Always remember to round your fingers so that you will create a rounded shape in the hair. Blend the profile line into the back area. Your profile line should be one finger width only. This will help you to control your sections. Take your guideline for the back area from the crown area. Remember to hold the hair at a 90 degree angle to the head at all times. Work down from the crown to the occipital area and then into the nape area. The headshape is rounded. To maintain your angle when you are working at the nape area, you may find it easier to cut inside your fingers. When you have created your profile line, you can then start to layer the back area. Using fan-like sections and following your guideline, work out from the centre point at the crown towards the back of the ear. Continue to work through the fan-like sections into the occipital area and down into the nape. Remember to: keep the hair wet at all times; Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 3 of 22

cut the hair to the same length as your guideline; hold the hair at 90 degrees to the headshape; and round your fingers slightly to obtain a rounded layer. Blending in the front area Take fan-like sections, starting at the top of the crown and working to just behind the back of the ear. Work through your sections from the ear up towards a centre parting at the front hairline, following your guideline carefully. Repeat on the other side. Cross-check your haircut for balance: if you cut vertically, cross-check horizontally if you cut horizontally, cross-check vertically. After completing the layers, the next step is to cut the perimeter shape. This is your opportunity to personalise your haircut. The layers in the hair create a soft, rounded look and give the outline a soft edge. Our stylist has chosen to point cut the nape, sides and fringe areas to maintain a soft look. There are a number of techniques you could use to finish this haircut. For example, you could blunt cut the hair at the perimeter to give a hard, bold look. Once you have mastered the technique of creating short, rounded layers, you will be able to try out these finishing techniques. With practice, you will know the most effective way to personalise your haircuts. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 4 of 22

Step 1 of 25 - Before you start There are many factors you should take into account before you start your haircut: hairlines, growth patterns, hair quality, quantity and texture, and face shape. Hairlines Client consultation is the most important part of your work and checking hairlines is an essential element of your hair analysis. The areas to look at are: Nape Side Front Crown You should always look at these areas when the hair is dry and again when it is wet after shampooing. Your client could have used a mousse or gel product on their hair that will give you a false impression of their hairline growth. Not everyone has a perfect hairline so make sure you check for uneven growth and awkward, moving shapes. You will need to take account of these when you are cutting. Hair-growth patterns You need to take your client's hair growth pattern into consideration when you are cutting their hair because some patterns influence how a cut is carried out. The most common ones are: Double crown Nape whorls Calf licks Widow's peak If your client has any of these growth patterns, you should cut without using pressure to allow for the natural movement of the hair. You may need to cut the sections of hair within the growth patterns longer than the rest of the hair. This allows for the movement of the hair as it springs back to how it falls naturally. The hair looks level even though it has not been cut level. Quality of hair The quality of hair means the condition. Good quality hair is easy to style. Hair that is thin and brittle is more difficult so you will need to use styling agents such as mousse or gel. Quantity Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 5 of 22

Quantity refers to the density of hair how much hair is on the head and how thick or fine the hair shape is. These factors are important when you are thinking about the balance and control of a hair style. For example, it is easy to show volume on thick hair. On thin hair it is more difficult so you need to use styling gels and mousses. When you are applying chemical treatments, the thickness of your client's hair will dictate how much product and what techniques you use. For example, fine hair can be more resistant to colour and perm treatments. Texture There are three types of hair texture: Fine Medium/normal Thick/coarse The texture of your client's hair affects the size of the sections you take. For thicker hair, you need finer sections to make sure the guideline is visible. You need to see the guideline to know exactly where to cut each section of hair. In this case, our model's face shape is square. Her hair type is naturally curly and it's density is above average. Divide the hair cut into segments: back; side; front; and internal layers. Facial features and face shape The shape of your client's face and head are unique. Use your observation skills to identify their individual features. Your haircut should enhance their good features, eg their eyes and cheek bones, and disguise their less attractive features, eg a heavy jaw or big nose. The different face shapes are: Oval, round and heart-shaped these faces have curved contours ranging from gentle to extreme. A softer hairstyle is more compatible with these face shapes. Square, rectangle and triangle these face shapes are angular and solid and have a chiselled look. Sharp, blunt cuts suit these faces much better than soft styles. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 6 of 22

Step 2 of 25 - Top box section You will create short, rounded layers for this haircut. Take your first section from the top box area. Take a section back from either side of the central eye area towards the top of the crown. Tip: Keep the hair wet at all times. This will help you work cleanly and create a more precise haircut. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 7 of 22

Step 3 of 25 - Profile line Starting at the crown area, take a section from the centre of the top box area. This will be your profile line. Hold the hair at 90 degrees from the head and start to cut your line, working forwards. You should determine the length you want to achieve at the client consultation stage. Our model's hair was already short on top so it was easy to determine the length we would achieve in the finished result. Tip: If you client has very long hair, it is particularly important to agree at the consultation stage what length you are aiming for in your finished result. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 8 of 22

Step 4 of 25 - Front area Continue your section towards the front hairline. If you want to create length at the front hairline, pull the section back and away from the head. Always pull the hair up at a 90 degree angle to the head. Notice the angle of our stylist's fingers. They are slightly rounded to achieve a rounded layer. Step 5 of 25 - Blend profile line into back area Work into the back area, using your central profile line. To maintain control of your section and help you see your guidelines clearly, your profile line should be no more than the width of one finger. Make sure the client's head is in a slightly downward position. Tip: To create balanced weight distribution and even layers, your profile line must be in the centre of the head at this stage of your haircut. (see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 9 of 22

Step 6 of 25 - Blending in the crown area Using your profile line from the crown as your guide, blend in the crown area. Remember to hold the section of hair at a 90 degree angle from the head and keep your fingers curved to follow the shape of the head. The client's head should be in an upright position to allow you to achieve this angle more easily. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 10 of 22

Step 7 of 25 - Blending in the occipital area Work downwards from the crown into the occipital area, blending in your guideline. Pulling the hair at 90 degrees to the head with maximum tension, cut all the hair to the same length. Remember to keep the hair wet. Step 8 of 25 - Blending in the nape area The headshape is rounded at the nape area and the head is flatter. This can make it difficult to achieve the correct angle. Notice how our stylist is cutting inside the fingers. As you work down into the nape area, you may find it easier to cut do this. But remember to keep the hair at 90 degrees to the head and cut it all to the same length. Your profile line determines the length of your overall haircut. If you want to cut the hair short at the nape, you will need to create a short profile line. Tip: When layering the nape area, you may find it easier to cut inside your fingers. The headshape is flatter here and it is difficult to achieve the necessary angle. (see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 11 of 22

Step 9 of 25 - Back area layering The next step of your haircut is to create fan-like sections, coming out from the centre of the head. Here, our stylist has separated out the sections before cutting. You may find this helpful. It will allow you to see clearly your sectioning pattern. Remember: keep the hair wet at all times; pull the hair out at 90 degrees to the head; and hold your fingers in a rounded angle to create a rounded layer. Tip: Don't round your fingers too much, you will create a heavy haircut. Graduate the angle. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 12 of 22

Step 10 of 25 - Back area layering Progress through the fan-like sections, working from the centre point at the crown. Using your guideline, work towards the back of the ear. Notice how our stylist's fingers are slightly curved. This enables the stylist to achieve the correct angle for cutting the layers. Step 11 of 25 - Back area layering Continue working through your sections into the occipital and nape areas. Cut all the hair to the same length. Repeat the same procedure on the other side of the head, again taking fan-like sections from the central point. Check the balance of your cut. To achieve balance, it is vital that your sections and cutting angles are the same on both sides. Tip: Stand on the opposite side of the head to the side that you are cutting. You will find it more comfortable to work and will be able to see your guidelines more clearly. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 13 of 22

(see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 14 of 22

Step 12 of 25 - Cross-checking It is vital that, as soon as you have finished cutting an area of layering in your haircut, you cross-check it against other areas. When you are cross-checking, work in the opposite direction to your cutting angle: If you cut your layering vertically, cross-check horizontally. If you cut your layering horizontally, cross-check vertically. Our stylist has cut vertically down the headshape so they are cross-checking the haircut horizontally. Tip: When you cross-check your layering, you should be taking off only a minimum amount of hair, if any at all. If you have to cut much hair off, check that you are not cross-checking at the wrong angle. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 15 of 22

Step 13 of 25 - Finished back area It is best not to cut the nape hairline this stage of your haircut. You should have established during your consultation whether your client wants you to create a soft look at the nape. If so, you can add this when you have completed the rest of your haircut. Step 14 of 25 - Blending in the front area Create a centre parting from the crown to the front hairline. You can now work the front area in two sections. This will allow you to check the balance of the haircut. It will also provide you with a blending point. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 16 of 22

Step 15 of 25 - Blending in the front area Take a fan-shaped section from the top of the crown to behind the ear. This section will provide you with a guideline. Use this guideline to work your other fan-like sections from the back into the front area. Remember to hold each section at a 90 degree angle from the head as you work it into the front. Tip: Take care when creating your guideline at this stage of your haircut. Because you use it to blend in the front area, it can alter the whole look. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 17 of 22

Step 16 of 25 - Blending in the front area Starting at the back of the crown behind the ear, work through the fan-like sections. Pull the hair out at 90 degrees to the head. Curve your fingers to follow the curve of the headshape. Continue working up towards your centre parting. Step 17 of 25 - Blending in the front area As you blend in the front area, remember to: keep the hair wet at all times; use maximum tension; and pull the hair out 90 degrees to the headshape. Step 18 of 25 - Blending in the front area As you start to work forwards towards the front hairline, take fan-like sections. Work upwards towards the centre parting. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 18 of 22

Step 19 of 25 - Front area Here, our stylist is using a fan-like sectioning pattern to work around the front area. At this stage of your haircut, your guideline is very clear. You have one guide at the base of the crown and another from your previous section. Tip: Always follow your guideline. To keep a strong, precise guideline, use fine sectioning patterns and keep the hair wet. Step 20 of 25 - Repeat on the other side Our stylist has worked up to the centre parting, reaching the last section on this side of the head. When you have reached the last section on one side of the head, repeat the same procedure on the other side. To make sure you achieve a balanced haircut, you should use the same: sectioning patterns cutting angle guidelines Cross-check as you work and keep the hair wet. (see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 19 of 22

Step 21 of 25 - Cross-checking As soon as you have finished cutting one area of layering in your haircut, you should cross-check it against other areas. When you are cross-checking, work in the opposite direction to your cutting angle: If you cut your layering vertically, cross-check horizontally. If you cut your layering horizontally, cross-check vertically. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 20 of 22

Step 22 of 25 - Personalising your haircut Now that you have completed the perimeter, you can personalise your haircut. With this style, you could blunt cut or point cut into the hair at the nape, side and front areas. Point cutting will eliminate excess length and give you a soft-looking result. How you personalise your haircut will depend on the finished look you agreed with your client during the consultation stage. Tip: No one can teach you how to personalise your haircuts. This is when you can stamp your own creativity on your work. Step 23 of 25 - Personalising your haircut Now that you have completed the perimeter, you can personalise your haircut. With this style, you could blunt cut or point cut into the hair at the nape, side and front areas. Point cutting will eliminate excess length and give you a soft-looking result. How you personalise your haircut will depend on the finished look you agreed with your client during the consultation stage. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 21 of 22

Step 24 of 25 - Personalising your haircut Now that you have completed the perimeter, you can personalise your haircut. With this style, you could blunt cut or point cut into the hair at the nape, side and front areas. Point cutting will eliminate excess length and give you a soft-looking result. How you personalise your haircut will depend on the finished look you agreed with your client during the consultation stage. Step 25 of 25 - Finished result As you can see from our finished result the rounded shape can be seen. The hair was Blow dryed using a Vent brush to create a soft result. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 22 of 22