The nail unit comprises the nail itself and all the surrounding tissues involved with its growth and development.

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1 Gel Nail Polish Gel nail polish is super popular these days and for good reason. It s longer lasting than regular nail polish, it s more durable than regular polish and it s easier on the nails than acrylic. If your Gel Nail polish is applied correctly, it should last at least two weeks without chipping or peeling. By this point you will visibly see the growth at the base of the nail, and it may be tempting to start to pick at your polish. You should NOT remove gel polish by peeling it off with your nails or teeth! Picking gel polish off will damage your nails and make them brittle because the top layer of your nail often peels off along with the polish. Gel Nail Polish protects your nails and makes them stronger, preventing them from breaking or ripping. And one of the best advantages is that it dries instantly after curing in a UV light for just a couple of minutes (or 30 seconds in an LED light), so you can immediately get back to work without having to worry about messing up your polish.

2 Structure of the nail The nail unit comprises the nail itself and all the surrounding tissues involved with its growth and development. What s the purpose of the nail plate? The nail plate acts as a protective shield, shielding the delicate tissues of the underlying Nail Bed. What is the Matrix? The matrix is in fact the ROOT of the nail. This area is not visible, it is hidden and protected by the Proximinal Nail Fold. The matrix produces keratin cells that make up the nail plate. As more and more cells are produced the older ones are pushed outwards and flattened, all this pushing and flattening results in the cells loosing their original white plumpish appearance. They eventually become transparent and become part of the nail plate. Apart from producing the keratin cells that make up the nail plate, the matrix also determines the shape and thickness of the nail. The overall length of the matrix will determine the thickness of the nail; so the longer the matrix the thicker the nail. A short matrix produces fewer cells, as a result a thinner nail. Matrix shapes and sizes vary per person, a flat matrix will produce a flat nail and a curved matrix will produce of course a curved nail. The matrix is the most important feature of the nail unit. Damage to the matrix can cause permanent damage to the appearance of the nail. The Nail Folds As mentioned previously the nail folds protect the matrix. The Proximinal Nail Fold and the Lateral Nail Folds are part of our skin. The skin does not just end there, it in fact folds at the edges and continues beneath. This continuing skin acts as a protective barrier, it in fact protects and seals the matrix against bacteria and dirt that is common within our environment. The Eponychium Normally referred to as the cuticle, but it is in fact not the true cuticle. The eponychium attaches closely to the nail plate and moves with it as the nail plate grows. This extra growth of eponychium is generally freed and pushed back during a manicure. The eponychium s function is to act as a barrier seal to stop bacteria, infection from getting to the matrix. Ptygerium/ Dead Skin Cells/ True Cuticle We are constantly shedding dead skin cells throughout our daily life, the nail folds are no exception. The skin on the underside of the nail folds sheds constantly as the nail plate grows and rubs (sloughs) against it. These dead skin cells attach to the nail plate and become visible as the nail grows. This attached skin is referred to as the Ptygerium, dead skin cell or the true cuticle. This needs to be removed regularly in order to prevent a build up.

3 Lunula The Lunula is often referred to as moons. The lunula is in fact the front end of the matrix. The whitish half moons are keratin cells that have not yet been completely flattened and still have some of their content. Not everyone has visible lunula s The lunula is normally more prominent on the thumbs. The shape of the lunula determines the shape of the free edge/distal edge. Free edge: This is the extension of the nail plate, which grows over and beyond the finger tip. It does not adhere to the nail bed. The free edge is the hardest part of the nail How fast does the nail grow? The overall growth of the nail within one month is approximately 3mm. However this does vary from person to person. To completely outgrow a nail can take up to 6 months. As mentioned, growth rate does vary from person to person, there are many contributing factors such as; weather, health, age and a well balanced diet. The nail tends to grow faster in our early years, reaching its peak around the age of and then the nail growth gradually slows down, as we get older. Growth is accelerated in the summer, during pregnancy and during sleep. Poor blood circulation, malnutrition, certain illnesses and some medications can slow down the growth rate. Each nail grows at a different rate. The smallest nail that we often refer to as our pinkie is the in fact the slowest, then the thumbs. The index finger generally grows at an accelerated rate in comparison to the others. Brittle nails tend to have a low water content. The water content will effect the flexibility of the nails. Water content can vary from 10% to 30%. Nail varnishes and oils will prevent loss of water and encourage flexibility

4 Client Consultation It is important to have a full consultation with the client before applying the Gel Nail Polish. This is to assess their suitability and to get all the information required for planning their treatment. You will need to fill in a record card with all the relevant details and get the client to sign the record card before your begin treatment. In addition to their personal and contact details, you will need the following information 1. Condition of the client s hands and nails: The treatment may have to be adapted or even refused, depending on the nature of a condition that might be present 2. Reason for treatment: different occasions may require different sorts of designs. 3. Lifestyle: the client s job, whether or not they have young children and what they do in their leisure time will influence your choice and application of nail are products. 4. Commitment: whether the client is willing and capable to maintaining the gel nail. 5. Personal preferences: It is important not to pressure a client into wearing colours and designs that you like creating but they are not comfortable with. Assessing the client for treatment: There are some conditions of the skin and nail which either limit the treatment that can be given or contraindicate treatment altogether. You must be able to identify signs of normal and abnormal nail growth, and provide appropriate treatment and advice for home care. You must also be able to recognise signs of infections and disease which require medial referral. It is important that the skin and nail are clean, so that an accurate assessment can be made. The examination should take place in good light, preferable under a magnifying lamp. Jewellery should be removed from the area to be assessed. Ensure that the client s hands and arms are free from clothing and Jewellery. Offer client a lightweight gown to protect their clothing. Additional protection may be provided with a towel over the clients knees if treatment is not being provided at a nail station. Assess the general condition of the skin: note the colour and texture. Is the skin soft and smooth or dry and rough? Look for any cracks in the skin. Are there any signs of infections? Look at the skin between the fingers: are there any signs of dryness or flakiness? Is there any irritation where rings have been worn? Inspect the cuticles: notice if they are dry and hard or soft and pliable. Are there any splits or hangnails? Are any of the cuticles excessively thick? Examine the skin around the nails: is the skin intact and are there any signs of infection?

5 Study each of the nail, run the pads of your thumbs over the nail plates so you can feel any irregularities: are they smooth, flexible and slightly pink? Do they look and feel strong or are they all different shapes and sizes? Are there any splits or breaks? Are there any signs of nail biting? Note the natural length.

6 Contra-indicstions Contra-indications for the application of Gel Nail Polish are the same as for other nail service. If the client has a disease or disorder of the hand or nail it is in the interests of both the nail technician and of the clients not to proceed with the service. Treating a client with a contra-indication may lead to cross infection or worsening of the client s condition. It is important to advise the client to seek medical advice to ensure a correct diagnosis and treatment for their condition. Diseases and disorders of the nails Nail diseases are conditions of the nail and surrounding skin which result from bacterial, fungal and viral infections. Nail diseases contra-indicate manicure or any nail treatments. A client with a diseased nail should be referred to their doctor from medical treatment. Nail disorders do not usually create a problem for the beauty therapist. The basic manicure, pedicure and nail procedures can be adapted for most conditions, supported with appropriate home care advice. Severe bruising: The client may experience pain and a possible worsening of the condition during the Gel Nail treatment. Severe eczema: The client may by irritated by products used during the Gel Nail Treatment Psoriasis As with eczema, clients with psoriasis on the hands and fingers may find that the condition is irritated by the products used. Broken bones: Pressure applied during treatment would cause pain and discomfort to a client with broken bones in the hands, arms or fingers

7 Infection Clients with an infection of any kind, whether it is fungal, bacterial or viral should not be treated due to the risk of cross-infection. Appearance of infection: Redness, blisters, inflammation and itching. These may appear on the cuticle or skin around the nail or on the fact and neck which the nail regularly touch. Some condition will require restriction and adaptation of the Gel Nail Polish treatment. These include mild eczema and psoriasis, minor nail separation and severely bitten nails. Nail Disorders Discoloured Nails Nail discolouration is one of the most common nail problems faced by people. Most of the discoloured nails are caused due to infections. Sometimes, the poor blood circulation or a weak heart can trigger this disorder. The nails become white, yellow, or green among others depending on the infection type and the conditions of one's skin. Discoloured nails can be treated by working on the overall health of the body. One can also use nail polish and artificial nails to hide the discolouration. Eggshell Nails Eggshell nails can be easily identified as they are characterized by thin and fragile nails. The nails often curve over the tip of the fingers. This condition is usually due to nervous disorders, poor diet, and internal dysfunction or even due to side effects of medication. The only solution is to keep nails trimmed. Leukonychia In this disorder, white spots appear on the nail surface. Leukonychia is usually caused because of weak liver or kidney, and injuries to nails or bruises. Though there are no specific treatments as such, you can always take preventive measures. Indulging in foods that are rich in zinc, proteins and vitamins can improve the nail's condition. Applying coats of nail polish is another temporary solution. Furrows Furrows or corrugations are nothing but long ridges that sometimes appear across the nails. This is usually caused due to medication, frostbite, poor blood circulation, and lack of zinc in the diet. As time passes, the furrows can deepen. Zinc supplements and eating foods rich in zinc can treat this problem. Using any kind of ridge filler is the best way to hide your ridges.

8 Hangnails Hangnails or agnail occurs when the cuticle becomes dry and starts cracking. Apply generous amount of cuticle oil, two to three times a day and trim the nails. Sometimes biting, cutting the cuticle too close or even an injury to the nails can lead to agnails. Though this condition isn't painful, it can get really annoying and make your nails look unattractive. Onychauxis Onychauxis is characterized by abnormal thickening of the nails, often the toenails. The condition, though generally hereditary, can be caused due to other factors too, such as poor diet, infection, trauma, psoriasis, darier's disease, and acromegaly among others. Regular filing and buffing the nail can reduce the thickness of the nails significantly. Ingrown Nail Onychocryptosis or ingrown nail is the condition in which the nails grow into the sides of the skin. One of the main reasons for this disorder is wearing footwear of the wrong size. People suffering from Onychocryptosis often complain of pain along the margins of the nail and are extremely sensitive to any kind of pressure. Filing the nails properly and wearing comfortable shoes are the sole solutions.

9 Bitten Nails : In most cases, only a small portion of the nail is visible, the edges of which are rough and uneven. The finger tips appears bulbous, there is not free edge. Frequently the cuticles become involved and constant biting causes them to grow thicker and harder. Severe nail biting to hangnails, warts and bacterial infection around the nail. The disturbance of the matrix cells over a long period of nail biting can affect the formation of the replacement nail. Bitten nail: Professional manicures encourage the client by improving the appearance of the nails and making them less easy to chew! This is achieved by Filing the nails into a regular shape Bevelling the split layers together so that the edges become smoother Softening, lifting and removing excess cuticle from the nail plate (warm oil treatment is particularly useful before doing this) Buffing the nails, which helps them to grow and gives them a healthy glow CLIENTS WITH DIABETES A client with diabetes,injury to your feet or hands is a major concern. An injury is an open invitation for an infection. An infection can lead to higher blood sugars and higher blood sugars can interfere with the healing process, which can lead to ulcers and potential amputation. This means you need to take good care when carrying out any treatment to their feet and hands and in order avoid injuries. If your client is diabetic, he/she is at increased risk of various bone and joint disorders. Factors such as nerve damage (diabetic neuropathy), arterial disease and obesity may contribute to these problems but often the cause isn't clear. Most treatments are fine to be carried out on someone who suffers from diabetes, but if in doubt request a covering letter from your client s GP stating it is okay for the client to receive the treatment. When carrying out a Manicure or Pedicure on a client suffering from diabetes, you must make sure your client does not have any cuts or ulcerations on his or her feet and hands and that you take care when cutting cuticles, corns and removing calluses. The reason for this is because diabetics suffer from low or impaired immune systems meaning they take longer to overcome illnesses. Any cuts or ulcerations can lead to cellulitis which is a spreading infection of the skin leading to chills, fevers, sweats and swollen lymph nodes Daily Foot Care Guide For Diabetics Those suffering from diabetes should take extra care in cleaning their feet. They should regularly clean their feet by scrubbing them gently and washing with warm water. After washing the feet, any ointment or cream should be applied. After washing, the feet should be pat dried using a towel. Wounds and infections, if any, should be treated immediately and, if it is serious, it is better to consult a doctor. Always keep the feet moisturised. This will prevent the feet from drying and also keep the nails from cracking. However, make sure that you do not apply the moisturising cream between the toes as this might trigger infections. Diabetics are more prone to infections because of the high sugar level in blood. It is always better to cut the nails after taking a bath as they will be soft and easier to clip. Overgrown nails can lead to the accumulation of dirt around the cuticles. So, keeping the nails short is very important. If you have thick or yellowed nails, then you should not trim them yourself and must

10 take the aid of a doctor. You should regularly check your feet and toes carefully. Look out for cuts, bruises, swelling, red spots or infected toe nails. You can take the help of someone to do the checking for you if you find difficulty in bending over. The shoes or slippers that you put on must fit well and make you comfortable, for even a slight pinch can cause blisters which might take months to heal. So, always invest in good quality and right footwear. Indulge in light exercises such as cycling, swimming and tai-chi for improving the feet movement without exerting too much pressure. Or, you can even ask your doctor to prepare a special exercise program based on your health and fitness. When walking or jogging, wear athletic shoes that give your feet good support. Besides foot care, it's vital to adopt healthy eating habits and lead a good lifestyle. Eat lots of leafy vegetables and cut down the intake of processed foods as they are loaded with calories and has high sugar content. It would be excellent if you can take the help of a nutritionist to prepare your diet plan. Wearing shoes and socks all the time is beneficial for diabetic patients. Even when at home it's advisable to put on socks since walking barefoot can hurt the feet Repairing the natural nail: If the natural nail is broken, split or cracked, it is sometimes possible to repair the damage so that the client doesn t lose the free edge of her nail. Repairs can be done with different types of materials, the strongest being silk, fiberglass, linen and acrylic. Once repaired, nails should be treated in the same way as artificial nail for example. Non-acetone nail polish remover must be used. How to repair flaking nails: 1. Remember any nail polish dehydrate the nail plate by wiping it with a cotton bud soaked in acetone 2. Place a piece of mending material over the whole nail plate, extending over the free edge. 3. Apply a layer of a resin over the material and allow this to dry. Use a resin activator, if available to reduce the drying time. If using acrylic, allow it to dry before proceeding to step 5 4. Repeat step 3 5. Use a four-sided buffer to bring the nail to a shine How to repair a free-edge or flesh-line break 1. Remove any nail polish ad dehydrate the nail plate by wiping it with a cotton bud soaked in acetone 2. Place a small piece of mending material over the break 3. Apply a layer of resin over the material and allow this to dry. Use a resin activator, if available to reduce the drying time. 4. Repeat step 3 5. Use a four-sided buffer to smooth the repair application and bring the nail to a shine. How to repair a severed free edge 1. Place the severed free edge into a bowl of hot water to soften the nail. Soak for approximately three minutes, then dry with a tissue. 2. Remove any nail polish and dehydrate the nail plate by wiping it with a cotton bud soaked in acetone 3. Lightly buff the whole nail plate to remove the shine 4. Place a small drop of resin close to the free edge 5. Apply the severed nail tip to the nail plate, overlapping it slightly. 6. Blend the join with a medium-grit file 7. Place a small piece of mending material over the join. 8. Apply a layer of resin over the material and allow this to dry. Use a resin activator, if available, to reduce the drying time. 9. Apply mending material to the whole nail plate 10. Repeat step 8 twice 11. Use a four-sided buffer to smooth the repair application and bring the nail to a shine.

11 Creating nail effects. The length and shape of the nail should enhance the overall size and shape of the hands and should also be practical for the client s occupation. The strength and condition of the nails are also important. Only very strong nails should be worn long. Shorter nails are much less likely to break to split. They are also more hygienic. Oval nail: Generally considered to be the most attractive nail shape. Oval nails give the effect of length without producing a fragile point Square Nail: Short, square nails and often preferred by clients because of their jobs, for example people who handle food and beaut therapists Pointed Nail: Clients who are impatient for their nail to grow sometimes shape them in to a point so that they look longer. This is the worst thing they could do as pointed nails will soon snap off. Wide nail: Wide nail can be made to appear slimmer by leaving a narrow strip free from the enamel at either side of the nail. This creates all illusion of extra length, which draws attention away from the width. Square Oval (Squoval) Combining the elegance of the oval with the strength of the square, the squoval is a popular nail shape for most fingers. First begin with a square with straight and even side walls. File the corners until your free edge is rounded and bevelled. Remember, you still want strong side supports don't go too file-happy. Round: As one of the most conservative shapes of the bunch, the round shape is ideal for men and those who like to maintain short nails. This shape is flattering for wide nails, and gives the illusion of a thinner nail bed. File the side walls straight like a square, then round the free edge into that perfect swooping circle.

12 Choosing Gel Nail Polish The Gel Nail Polish colour should match with the client s lipstick and co-ordinate with the clothes that are being worn. However, there may be times when what seems the perfect nail colour is not the best choice. Very bright Gel Nail Polish colours draw attention to the hands and are not suitable if the client suffers arthritis or obvious skin or nail condition Dark enamels make small nail look even smaller Orange, peach or beige-toned enamels emphasise the bluish tinge of hands with poor blood circulation Pearl enamels have a reflective quality, which draws attention to any imperfections of the nails

13 Items and equipment needed to carry out Gel Nail Polish 1. Lamp for workstation 2. UV Gel lamp with timer 3. Nail wipes or tissue to apply and remove products 4. Cotton buds to apply and remove products 5. Three bowls to dispense products into 6. Four-sided buffer to bring nail surface to a shine 7. 3 medium size towels 8. Acetone- to dehydrate and clean the nail plates 9. Nail scissors: lightweight, curved blades adapt to the convex shape of the nail. The cut the nail without weakening them. 10. Emery boards: professional emery boards are long, strong and flexible with coarse side for reducing the length of strong nail and a fine side used for achieving the final shape and smoothing the free edge. 11. Orange stick: the beveled end is used to push back pre-softened cuticles and also for transferring small amounts of cream from pots. The pointed end is always used tipped with cotton wool for cleaning around the nail border, the cuticles and under the free edge. Plastic cuticle pushers are available which can be cleaned and disinfected in the normal way 12. Cuticle knife: the straight cutting edge of the knife is sharp and must be used with great care when scraping away eponychium from the surface of the nail plate. 13. Cuticle nipper: the small pointed blades are used to trim away excessive cuticle in one continuous piece. They are also used to remove hangnails. 14. Nail brush used to remove all traces of treatment preparation from the nail and cuticles after soaking 15. Spatula: used for transferring hand cream from the jar for massage 16. Buffer: covered with chamois leather, it spreads paste polish over the nail and buffs them to create a sheen.

14 17. Cuticle cream: is used to make the cuticle pliable so that it can be pushed back and lifted without causing damage or discomfort. 18. Cuticle remover: potassium hydroxide is alkaline and caustic. In cuticle remover, it is combined with water, to produce a milky consistency and glycerol, which is a humectant. Cuticle remover works by breaking down eponychium so that it can be scraped away gently from the nail plate with a cuticle knife. It can also be used as a nail brush. Cuticle remover makes the the skin dry, sore and irritated if left in contact for too long. Make sure the skin and nail are rised well after it has been used. 19. Disinfectant: kept in a small jar for soaking the cutting edge of metal tools during treamtment 20. Towel: for protecting the immediate treatment area and drying the client s hands 21. Manicure cushion: to support the client s hands between the various stages of treatment. Alternatively, a towel can be folded into a roll for the same purpose 22. Antiseptic: for cleaning the hands

15 How to apply Gel Nail Polish to fingernails. PROFESSIONAL USAGE: 1. Wash and dry your own hands, preferable where the client can see you. Evidence of good hygiene practice is always reassuring for a client and shows that you are working to professional standards 2. Spray both front and back of both hands with antiseptic liquid. 3. Examine the hands and nails. If nail polish is being worn it will have to be removed before you can make an accurate assessment 4. While you are checking that there are no contraindication to Gel Nail Polish, note any conditions that +may need special attention. If there are signs of neglect they will need discussing with the client and advice should be given regarding home care. 5. Explain the purposes of regular manicure relative to the condition of the client s hands and nails. Establish which shade of Gel Nail Polish client require and check that it is suitable for application. 6. Establish whether the client is left-handed or right-handed and proceed with the opposite hand. This ensures that the hand that suffers the most wear and tear has a longer soaking period, which benefits the nails, skin and cuticles. 7. Apply nail polish remover with a cotton wool pad held between your index finger and middle finger. Press the pad firmly on the nail for a couple of seconds, then slide if off the nail, squeezing gently against the nail plate to remove all traces of dissolved enamel. 8. Pull back the nail walls gently from the sides of the nail plate to expose any enamel which might otherwise be hidden. Use a tipped orange stick and nail polish remover around the nail border so that the nails are left absolutely clean. 9. Nail that are excessively long may need cutting before filing. Apply a little pressure from above with your thumb when using the scissors. This helps to give support and minimises disturbance at the base of the nail. 10. Cut across the free edge of the nail, leaving the nail slightly longer than the desired length. 11. Working on the first hand, file the nails from sides to centre towards the nail tip. Hold the emery board as near to the end as possible. This produces long, flowing strokes and gives the nail and smooth edge. 12. File nail to smooth rough edges 13. Lightly buff the surface of each nail with a block buffer. Buffing can be done after filing without paste polish to simulate the blood supply to the nail bed. 14. Using Cuticle Remover, push back cuticle and remove any loose cuticles 15. Remove all grease and oil from nail plate using Acetone. 16. Clean the nails off with Nail Cleanser and a lint-free wipe OR sterile alcohol wipes 17. Apply Base Coat first, which can make polish last longer and prevent nail plate from discolouring. Ensure no polish is applied to skin. Cure with UV Lamp for 1 minute, or LED Nail curing lamp for 30 seconds 18. Apply coloured coat directly after the base coat. Cure with UV Lamp for 2 minutes, LED Nail curing lamp for 60 seconds 19. Apply second coat of coloured polish and cure for 2 minutes with UV lamp, LED Nail curing lamp for 60 seconds 20. Apply Top coat and cure with UV lamp 2 minutes 21. Use cleanser remover to remove the sticky layer above base coat and top coat after curing 22. Apply cuticle oil using a cotton swab. Rub the oil into the cuticle.

16 Tips to remember 1. Applying nail polish well is very skillful and needs a lot of practice. The nails are curved so it may be necessary to turn the fingers slightly in either direction to ensure that enamel is applied night up to but not over the nail walls. 2. You must be able to produce a smooth, even finish to the polish, which covers the nail plate without touching the cuticle. 3. Follow the application of each coat 4. Record details of the client s treatment and escort them to reception 5. Record details of the client s retail purchase.

17 How to apply French Manicure using Gel Nail Polish 1. Wash and dry your own hands, preferable where the client can see you. Evidence of good hygiene practice is always reassuring for a client and shows that you are working to professional standards 2. Spray both front and back of both hands with antiseptic liquid. 3. Examine the hands and nails. If nail polish is being worn it will have to be removed before you can make an accurate assessment 4. While you are checking that there are no contraindication to Gel Nail Polish, note any conditions that may need special attention. If there are signs of neglect they will need discussing with the client and advice should be given regarding home care. 5. Explain the purposes of regular manicure relative to the condition of the client s hands and nails. Establish which shade of Gel Nail Polish client require and check that the texture is suitable for application. 6. Spray both front and back of both hands with antiseptic liquid. 7. Establish whether the client is left-handed or right-handed and proceed with the opposite hand. This ensures that the hand that suffers the most wear and tear has a longer soaking period, which benefits the nails, skin and cuticles. 8. Apply nail polish remover with a cotton wool pad held between your index finger and middle finger. Press the pad firmly on the nail for a couple of seconds, then slide if off the nail, squeezing gently against the nail plate to remove all traces of dissolved enamel. 9. Pull back the nail walls gently from the sides of the nail plate to expose any enamel which might otherwise be hidden. Use a tipped orange stick and nail polish remover around the nail border so that the nails are left absolutely clean. 10. Nail that are excessively long may need cutting before filing. Apply a little pressure from above with your thumb when using the scissors. This helps to give support and minimises disturbance at the base of the nail. 11. Cut across the free edge of the nail, leaving the nail slightly longer than the desired length. 12. Working on the first hand, file the nails from sides to centre towards the nail tip. Hold the emery board as near to the end as possible. This produces long, flowing strokes and gives the nail and smooth edge. 13. File nail to smooth rough edges 14. Lightly buff the surface of each nail with a block buffer. Buffing can be done after filing without paste polish to simulate the blood supply to the nail bed. 15. Trim and file the nails to the desired length and shape. 16. Push the cuticles back with an orange stick or cuticle pusher. 17. Clean the nails off with Nail Cleanser and a lint-free wipe OR sterile alcohol wipes. 18. Apply Gel Polish Base coat to each of your nails. 19. Place your hands under the UV light for 1 minute. 20. Apply the first coat which can be a light pink colour polish of your choice. 21. Place the hand under the UV light for 2 minutes. 22. Apply a second coat if required 23. Freehand paint the tips of your nails with a White Gel Polish. Paint from one side to the other. Try to avoid getting White nail polish on the fingers. 24. Dip a brush in acetone and use it to clean up your lines and to remove any excess polish that got onto the fingers. Once the tips are nice and clean, cure the polish in under the UV light.

18 25. Clean up before you curing 26. Place your hands under the UV light for 2 minutes 27. Repeat steps 11, 12 and 13 if required 28. Apply a thin coat of Gel Top Coat Polish 29. Place your hands under the UV light for 2 minutes. 30. Wipe the nails off with the Nail Cleanser or sterile alcohol wipes. (This removes the tackiness). A few tips: 1. If you get polish on the cuticle or skin, remove it with Acetone or nail cleanser BEFORE curing the nails under the light. If you allow the polish on your cuticles to harden it will likely cause the polish to peel or chip. Try to keep the polish on the surface of the nail only. 2. If you mess up a layer of polish, it s super easy to fix as long as you do it before curing under the light. Just wipe the layer of polish off with your nail cleanser or Acetone (use a lint-free pad or paper towel). Then just reapply the layer. 3. You can repeat steps 8 and 9 to add additional layers of colour if you prefer. 4. Don`t apply too thickly. 5. If you feel the colour too dark, just apply one layer. 6. When apply, please pay attention to wrapping edge 7. Use cleanser remover to remove the sticky layer above base coat and top coat after curing

19 How to remove Gel Nail Polish You will need: 1. A coarse nail file 2. Cotton wool pads 3. Aluminium foil cut into strips % acetone polish remover 5. An orange stick or a cuticle pusher 6. A buffing block 7. Hand moisturizer and/or cuticle oil

20 Steps: 1. Wash and dry your own hands, preferable where the client can see you. Evidence of good hygiene practice is always reassuring for a client and shows that you are working to professional standards 2. Spray both front and back of both hands with antiseptic liquid 3. Examine the hands and nails 4. Roughen the surface of the nails using a coarse nail file. This helps break through the top coat to allow the remover to penetrate the layers of polish below. 5. Soak a cotton wool ball/pad with the acetone remover and place it on one of the fingernails. 6. Wrap the finger with the cotton ball in foil, and squeeze it nice and tight so that the cotton ball stays in contact with the nail. Repeat steps 2 & 3 for each nail. 7. Wait about minutes. Maybe chase your kids around with your foil wrapped fingers and tell them that you re an alien. 8. Remove the foil from one finger. (You should be able to visibly see the polish coming loose from the edges of the nail.) Scrape the polish off of the nail using your orange stick or cuticle pusher. Don t use anything too sharp or you could remove the top layer of your nail. Repeat this step for each nail. 9. Use your buffing block to smooth the surface of each nail and remove any remaining little bits of polish. 10. Wash and moisturize your hands and nails. 11. Be very careful not to let the acetone drip or spill as it can damage the finish of many surfaces, particularly wood

21 Contra-actions: Some people are particularly sensitive to substances which are tolerated without any problem by the rest of us. Contact with the substance, even for a short time can cause an adverse skin reaction. In extreme cases, other organs of the body can be affected. Nail polish polishes can nail hardeners containing formaldehyde resin are the most likely manicure products to cause an adverse reaction (contra-action to manicure). People with sensitive skin may also react to perfumed products such as hand lotion. The skin will feel itchy and become inflamed. Allergy to Gel Nail Polish/Polish The nail plates are dead, so although they can be affected by nail cosmetics, they cannot become allergic to them. An allergy to nail polish is much more likely to appear on the face and neck as a result of touching the sink and bringing it into contact with the offending ingredient in the polish. This is why you must never wear nail polish when giving a facial treatment. A typical allergic reaction appears as dermatitis. Itchiness Inflammation Swelling Blistering at the site of contact, followed by weeping Dryness Flaking of the skin The most commonly affected sites of an allergy to nail polish are the eyelids, around the mouth, the sides of the next and upper chest. The symptoms of the allergy may not show up until hours after the initial contact. Procedures and Tips For Healthy Nails Indulge in a well-balanced diet and avoid addictions such as smoking and drinking. A sedentary lifestyle adversely affects the health of the body and ultimately the nail so it is better to lead a balanced life. Also, drink plenty of water. Moisturise your nails regularly. Lactic acid and phospholipids based creams and lotions can reduce nail cracking to a great level. Trim and file your nails on a regular basis. It is better to wear gloves while doing household chores like cleaning and washing. Massaging your nails daily with a hand cream is effective in keeping the nails healthy and strong

22 Home care advice Giving advice on home care is an important part of the professional service and should include selling the client good quality hand and nail care products from the salon s retail range. Having convinced your client about the benefits of regular professional manicures you need to give advice on how the hands and nails can be maintained in good condition between treatments. You should check how well the hands are usually protected from everyday activities and if there are any aspects of the client s job that night affect the condition and appearance of the hands and nails. Here is some general advice for looking after the hands and nails. Washing: Use mild soap or hand cleansers that are not too drying Remove rings before washing the hands so that soap does not build up behind them and irritate the skin Rinse the hands thoroughly with lukewarm water and dry them properly with a soft towel, skin creases that are left soggy crack and become sore. Always use hand cream or lotion after washing to lubricate and soften the skin. Protecting: Wear household gloves for wet jobs and any activities involving the use of chemicals. When this is not practical, apply barrier cream beforehand. If working with the hands submerged in hot water, rubber gloves should not be worn for longer than 15 minutes at a time as sweat up on the hands, which irritates the skin. Water a barrier cream and gloves when going out into cold weather. Use richer hand cream during the winter months. Keep a supply of hand cream close to the kitchen sink and in the bathroom, so that it can be used each time the hands are washed or rinsed. Massage the hand with cream each evening just before going to bed Rub cuticle cream into the nail and cuticles at bedtime to keep them soft and pliable. Always apply a basecoat under nail polish to protect the nail and prevent them from becoming stained. Avoid using nail polish remover too often, acetone free removers are less harsh on the nails. Do not be tempted to bit off the Gel nail polish Always remove Gel Nail Polish with the correct remover

23 Exercising a home Regular exercising improves the circulation, makes joints more supplied and increases the strength of the hands. Just a few minutes are needed when the hands are not busy. After a bath is a good time, when the muscles are warm and relaxed The tight squeeze: Grasp a squash ball in the palm of the hand and squeeze it tightly. Repeat until you can feel the strain. Relax your grip and repeat with the other hand Fist and flare Clench both fists very tightly. Hold a second, then flare the fingers out in front of you as wide apart and as stretched as possible. Repeat with the other hand Finger spread: Hold arms straight out in front of you with hands forward, palms down and fingers straight and pressed tight against each other. Thrust the fingers apart, spreading them as much as possible. Repeat six times. Wrist circling: Let the hand droop, then rotate them from the wrist, making as full circles as possible, 10 times in one direction than 10 times in the other. Royal waves: Keep the hands relaxes, palms facing downward and then move them gracefully up and down, waving slowly from the wrists. Repeat 10 times.

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26 Describe the first sign of a typical allergic skin reaction Name two ingredients of a nail polish which are most likely to cause an allergic reaction Give three reason for examining the client s hands before nail treatment Why is cuticle cream used before cuticle remover? What details should be entered on the client s record card? Why is orange wood stick used tipped with cotton wool? What is the best way of removing Gel Nail Polish? Why is it important not to bite off Gel Nail Polish

27 Why is it important for clients to see you washing your hands before carrying out Gel Nail Polish treatments?