European Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009

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1 European Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009 Main requirement SCC Ontario April 6th, 2016 Michela Pollastri

2 Main requirement of the regulation 1223/2009: CLAIM COMMON CRITERIA PRODUCT INFORMATION FILE - P.I.F SAFETY ASSESSMENT (Cosmetic Product Safety Report) NOTIFICATION on the portal CPNP. SUE reporting Guideline Cosmetics Europe Link:

3 CLAIM AND COMMON CRITERIA Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/ /03/16 The European Advertising Standards Alliance (EASA) conducted the first independent audit of industry s compliance with the Cosmetics Europe 2012 Charter and Guiding Principles on Responsible Advertising and Marketing Communications. The audit also checked the compliance of advertisements against the national self-regulatory advertising codes and laws as well as the European legal requirements. It was conducted across six representative European countries: France, Hungary, Italy, Poland, Sweden and UK.

4 CLAIM AND COMMON CRITERIA Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 Legal Compliance Truthfulness Evidential Support Common criteria The claim this product complies with provisions of the EU cosmetics legislation is not allowed since all products placed on the EU market must comply. The claim silicone-free shall not be made if the product contains silicone. The claim 48-hour hydration is not allowed if the set of evidence only supports a shorter period of hydration. Claims for cosmetic products, whether explicit or implicit, shall be supported by adequate and verifiable evidence regardless of the types of evidential support used to substantiate them, including where appropriate expert assessments.

5 CLAIM AND COMMON CRITERIA Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 Honesty Fairness Informed Decision making Common criteria The claim one million consumers prefer this product shall not be allowed if based only on the sale figure of one million units. A claim contrary to product X, this product does not contain ingredient Y which is known to be irritating shall not be made. Claims are an integral part of products and shall contain information allowing the average end user to make an informed choice. Different types of evidential support can be used to substantiate claims. It is usual to substantiate claims by using either experimental studies or consumer perception tests and/or published information or, indeed, a combination of these.

6 Ex vivo/in vitro tests must be conducted under standardized conditions and their protocols must refer to published and/or in house validated methods. Clear descriptions of the methodology will be documented, as well as the statistical analysis of the data. These tests shall be conducted in a controlled environment. To be used as evidence, such tests shall be predictive of an action or representative of an in vivo effect, but studies on humans must validate these predictive effects. CLAIM Tolerance tested Tested under medical supervision Dermatologically tested Clinically tested SUPPORT The product underwent tests under the supervision of a scientifically qualified professional intended to study its tolerance on a target group and that the results of those tests show that the product was well tolerated by this group. The product underwent tests conducted under the supervision of a medically qualified professional, such as a medical doctor or a dentist. It implies that the product was tested on humans under the supervision of a dermatologist It means that the product was tested on humans under the supervision of a medically qualified professional or another scientifically qualified professional according to a clinical protocol or in a clinical setting.

7 claim Test on human beings In vitro test Firming/increases skin elasticity Skin tone and elasticity measures with cutometer Reduces stretchmarks appearance Reduces scars appearance Moisturizing/hydrating immediate In use test; Skin tone and elasticity measures with cutometer, skin colorimetric measures In use test; elasticity measures, skin color measures Corneometry/TEWL Short term use Skin cells resistance to de-hydration Tanning/increases skin pigmentation Skin melanin measure with colorimeter Tyrosinase activity Increase in tyrosinase synthesis in melanocytes Increase in melanine synthesis in melanocytes

8 Best practices applying to experimental studies Experimental studies include (but are not limited to) studies in silico, in vitro, exvivo, with instrumental or biochemical methods, studies conducted on volunteers, investigator evaluations, sensory evaluations, etc. Different types of experimental studies can be used to provide data on the performance of cosmetic products. It is useful to take into consideration existing relevant guidelines e.g. guidelines relating to instrumental clinical techniques, other European or international guidelines or standards (e.g. CEN, ISO, etc.).

9 Product Information File

10 Product Information file: 10 YEARS

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12 COSMETIC PRODUCT SAFETY REPORT (CPSR) (art. 10, annex I)

13 COSMETIC PRODUCT SAFETY REPORT (CPSR) (art. 10, annex I)

14 COSMETIC PRODUCT SAFETY REPORT (CPSR) (art. 10, annex I)

15 COSMETIC PRODUCT SAFETY REPORT (CPSR) (art. 10, annex I) 1) Quantitative and qualitative composition of the cosmetic product, including chemical identity of the substances (incl. chemical name, INCI, CAS, EINECS/ELINCS, where possible) and their intended function. In the case of perfume and aromatic compositions, description of the name and code number of the composition and the identity of the supplier. 2) Physical/chemical characteristics and stability of the cosmetic product The physical and chemical characteristics and the stability of the cosmetics product under reasonably foreseeable storage conditions. Stability test according to ICH or similar (40 C 6 months, 25 C months), light or UV stability, thermal cycling 4 C/40 C, pack compatibility

16 3) Microbiological quality - The microbiological specifications of the substance or mixture and the cosmetic product. Particular attention shall be paid to cosmetics used around the eyes, on mucous membranes in general, on damaged skin, on children under three years of age, on elderly people and persons showing compromised immune responses. - Results of preservation challenge test Colipa, EU Pharmacopoeia, CTFA, ISO The efficacy of the preservation of a cosmetic product under development has to be assessed experimentally in order to ensure microbial stability and preservation during storage and use..

17 4) Impurities, traces, information about the packaging material -The purity of the substances and mixtures. -In the case of traces of prohibited substances, evidence for their technical unavoidability. -The relevant characteristics of packaging material, in particular purity and stability. Packaging compatibility investigation- release of additives i.e. plasticizers, phtalates, dies, metals.. 5) Normal and reasonably foreseeable use -The normal and reasonably foreseeable use of the product. The reasoning shall be justified in particular in the light of warnings and other explanations in the product labelling.

18 6) Exposure to the cosmetic product Data on the exposure to cosmetic product taking into consideration in relation to: 1) The site(s) of application; 2) The surface area(s) of application; 3) The amount of product applied; 4) The duration and frequency of use; 5) The normal and reasonably foreseeable exposure route(s); 6) The targeted (or exposed) population(s). Potential exposure of a specific population shall also be taken into account. Exposure might need to be calculated per unit area of skin or per unit of body weight). The possibility of secondary exposure by routes other than those resulting from direct application should also be considered (e.g. non-intended inhalation of sprays, non-intended ingestion of lip products, etc.).

19 7) Exposure to the substances Data on the exposure to the substances contained in the cosmetic product for the relevant toxicological endpoints. SED : The Systemic Exposure Dosage of a cosmetic ingredient It Is the amount expected to enter the blood stream (and therefore be systemically available) per kg body weight and per day. It is expressed in mg/kg body weight/day. Woman : 50 kg Man: 70 kg Child: 10 kg

20 Calculation of SED: A (g/day) = Amount of the cosmetic product applied daily C (%) = the Concentration of the ingredient under study in the finished cosmetic product DAp (%) = Dermal Absorption expressed as a % (consider the retention factor) 60 kg = default human body weight

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22 8) Toxicological profile of the substances -Without prejudice to Article 18, the toxicological profile of substance contained in the cosmetic product for all relevant toxicological endpoints. A particular focus on local toxicity evaluation (skin and eye irritation), skin sensitization, and in the case of UV absorption photo-induced toxicity shall be made. NO(A)EL : The No Observed (Adverse) Effect Level is the outcome of long-term toxicity studies, such as 28-day, 90-day tests with rats, mice, rabbits or dogs, chronic toxicity tests, carcinogenicity tests, teratogenicity tests, reproduction toxicity tests, It is the highest dosage for which no (adverse) effects can be observed In the calculation of the MoS, the lowest obtained NO(A)EL value is used, in order to consider the most sensitive species, as well as the relevant effect occurring at the lowest dosage possible. The NO(A)EL should be expressed as mg/kg body weight/day.

23 MOS = NOAEL/SED NO(A)EL : The No Observed (Adverse) Effect Level SED : The Systemic Exposure Dosage of a cosmetic ingredient The Margin of Safety (MOS) It is generally accepted that the MoS of a substance can be calculated by dividing its lowest NO(A)EL value by its possible SED.

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27 Toxicological profile for ingredient The toxicological requirements for dangerous substances newly produced /EU imported at levels between 100 kg and 1 ton per year (a category to which several cosmetic ingredients belong), currently consist of : Acute toxicity (oral, dermal or inhalation) Skin and eye irritation Sensitisation Mutagenicity data When higher amounts are produced/eu imported per year, a more extensive list of toxicological requirements is established [92/32/EEC].

28 Particular consideration shall be given to any possible impacts on the toxicological profile due to -particle sizes, including nanomaterials, -impurities of the substances and raw material used, and -interaction of substances. -Any read-across shall be duly substantiated and justified. The source of information shall be clearly identified 9) Undesirable effects and serious undesirable effects -All available data on the undesirable effects and serious undesirable effects to the cosmetic product or, where relevant, other cosmetic products. This includes statistical data.

29 10) Information on the cosmetic product Other relevant information, e.g. existing studies from human volunteers or the duly confirmed and substantiated findings of risk assessments carried out in other relevant areas Patch test, HIRPT, efficacy test, in use test under medical supervision, consumer test, in vitro safety assays. PART B Cosmetic product safety assessment. 1) Assessment conclusion Statement on the safety of the cosmetic product in relation to Article 3. Safety: A cosmetic product made available on the market shall be safe for human health when used under normal or reasonably foreseeable conditions of use, taking account, in particular, of the following: (a) presentation; (b) labelling; (c) instructions for use and disposal; (d) any other indication or information provided by the responsible person defined in Article 4.

30 2) Labelled warnings and instructions of use Statement on the need to label any particular warnings and instructions of use in accordance with Article 19(1)(d). particular precautions to be observed in use, and at least those listed in Annexes III to VI and any special precautionary information on cosmetic products for professional use; Reasoning: Explanation of the scientific reasoning leading to the assessment conclusion set out under Section 1 and the statement set out under Section 2. This explanation shall be based on the descriptions set out under Part A. Where relevant, margins of safety shall be assessed and discussed.

31 There shall be inter alia a specific assessment for cosmetic products intended for use on children under the age of three and for cosmetic products intended exclusively for use in external intimate hygiene. Possible interactions of the substances contained in the cosmetic product shall be assessed. The consideration and non-consideration of the different toxicological profiles shall be duly justified. Impacts of the stability on the safety of the cosmetic product shall be duly considered 4) Assessor s credentials and approval of part B Name and address of the safety assessor. Proof of qualification of safety assessor. Date and signature of safety assessor. Art 9(2):The cosmetic product safety assessment, as set out in Part B of Annex I shall be carried out by a person in possession of a diploma or other evidence of formal qualifications awarded on completion of a university course of theoretical and practical study in pharmacy, toxicology, medicine or a similar discipline, or a course recognized as equivalent by a Member State.

32 Cosmetic products notification portal The cosmetic products notification portal is a free of charge online notification system created for the implementation of Regulation(EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetics product. When a product has been notified in the CPNP, there is no need for any further notification at national level i n EU.

33 Cosmetic products notification portal Regulation 1223/2009 ( article 13) requires that the responsible person and, unders certain circumstances, the distributor of cosmetic products submit some information about product they place or make available on the European Market through the CPNP. The CPNP is making thsi information available electronically to: Competent Autority Poison Center

34 Definition from the Serious Undesirable Effects (SUE) Reporting Guidelines : Cosmetovigilance is defined by the collection, evaluation and monitoring of spontaneous reports of undesirable events observed during or after normal or reasonably foreseeable use of a cosmetic product. Together with other tools, cosmetovigilance contributes to post market surveillance

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37 Thank you! Michela Pollastri