Perm and neutralise hair

Transcription

1 Perm and neutralise hair UV20512 Y/600/8537 Learner name: VRQ Learner number:

2 VTCT is the specialist awarding body for the Hairdressing, Beauty Therapy, Complementary Therapy and Sport and Active Leisure sectors, with over 45 years of experience. VTCT is an awarding body regulated by national organisations including Ofqual, SQA, DCELLS and CCEA. VTCT is a registered charity investing in education and skills but also giving to good causes in the area of facial disfigurement. Statement of unit achievement By signing this statement of unit achievement you are confirming that all learning outcomes, assessment criteria and range statements have been achieved under specified conditions and that the evidence gathered is authentic. This statement of unit achievement table must be completed prior to claiming certification. Unit code Date achieved Learner signature Assessor initials IV signature (if sampled) Assessor tracking table All assessors using this Record of Assessment book must complete this table. This is required for verification purposes. Assessor name Assessor signature Assessors initials Assessor number (optional)

3 UV20512 Perm and neutralise hair It is the aim of this unit to develop your skills to create a variety of looks using basic perming techniques. You will learn how to assess your clients hair by identifying influencing factors through consultation techniques. This will enable you to identify the correct products, techniques, tools and equipment to use to suit your clients needs. You must also demonstrate that you can work on both long and short hair. Part of this service is to provide your clients with good aftercare advice. UV20512_v5

4 Level 2 Credit value 7 GLH 60 Observation(s) 3 External paper(s) 1

5 Perm and neutralise hair Learning outcomes On completion of this unit you will: 1. Be able to prepare to perm and neautralise hair 2. Be able to perm and neutralise hair Evidence requirements 1. Environment Evidence for this unit must be gathered in a real or realistic working environment. 2. Simulation At least 75% of Observation outcomes must be on real clients. 3. Observation outcomes Competent performance of Observation outcomes must be demonstrated to your assessor on at least three occasions. 4. Range All ranges must be practically demonstrated or other forms of evidence produced to show they have been covered. 5. Knowledge outcomes There must be evidence that you possess all the knowledge and understanding listed in the Knowledge section of this unit. This evidence may include projects, assignments, case studies, reflective accounts, oral/written questioning and/or other forms of evidence. 6. Tutor/Assessor guidance You will be guided by your tutor/assessor on how to achieve learning outcomes and ranges in this unit. All outcomes and ranges must be achieved. 7. External paper Knowledge and understanding in this unit will be assessed by an external paper. The criteria that make up this paper are highlighted in white throughout this unit. There is one external paper that must be achieved. UV

6 Achieving observations and range Achieving observation outcomes Your assessor will observe your performance of practical tasks. The minimum number of observations required is indicated in the evidence requirements section of this unit. Criteria may not always naturally occur during a practical observation. In such instances you will be asked questions to demonstrate your competence in this area. Your assessor will document the criteria that have been achieved through oral questioning. Maximum service times The following maximum service times apply to this unit: All perm wind techniques (winding only) 45 minutes Your assessor will sign off an outcome when all criteria have been competently achieved in a single client service. Achieving range The range section indicates what must be covered. Ranges should be practically demonstrated as part of an observation. Where this is not possible other forms of evidence may be produced. All ranges must be covered. Your assessor will document the portfolio reference once a range has been competently achieved. 4 UV20512

7 Observations Outcome 1 Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair You can: a. Prepare yourself, the client and work area for perming and neutralising b. Use suitable consultation techniques to identify service objectives c. Assess the potential of the hair to achieve the desired look by identifying the influencing factors *May be assessed through oral questioning. Observation Date achieved Criteria questioned orally Portfolio reference Assessor initials Learner signature UV

8 Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd. Outcome 2 Be able to perm and neutralise hair You can: a. Communicate and behave in a professional manner b. Select and use products, tools and techniques, taking into account factors influencing the service c. Section and wind the hair, taking meshes to suit the perm rod size to achieve the desired look d. Wind the hair with even tension, making sure all wound perm rods sit on their own base e. Monitor the development of the perming and neutralising processes, following manufacturers instructions f. Leave the hair free of perm lotion when the desired degree of curl is achieved, using water temperature and flow to suit client s needs g. Follow safe and hygienic working practices h. Provide suitable aftercare advice *May be assessed through oral questioning. Observation Date achieved Criteria questioned orally Portfolio reference Assessor initials Learner signature 6 UV20512

9 Range *You must practically demonstrate that you have: Used all perming and neutralising products Barrier cream Pre-perm treatments Perm lotions Neutralisers Post-perm treatments Considered all contra-indications History of previous allergic reaction to perming products Other known allergies Skin disorders Incompatible products Medical advice or instructions Performed all hair tests Elasticity Porosity Incompatibility Skin Development Considered all influencing factors Temperature Direction and degree of movement required Hair condition Hair texture Hair length Hair density Portfolio reference Portfolio reference Portfolio reference Portfolio reference *It is strongly recommended that all range items are practically demonstrated. Where this is not possible, other forms of evidence may be produced to demonstrate competence. UV

10 Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd. *You must practically demonstrate that you have: Used all sectioning techniques Directional Maximum service time (winding only) 45 minutes 9 section Maximum service time (winding only) 45 minutes Brick Maximum service time (winding only) 45 minutes Provided all types of advice Suitable aftercare products and their use Use of heated styling equipment Time interval between services The effect of perming on other services Portfolio reference Portfolio reference *It is strongly recommended that all range items are practically demonstrated. Where this is not possible, other forms of evidence may be produced to demonstrate competence. 8 UV20512

11 Developing knowledge Achieving knowledge outcomes You will be guided by your tutor and assessor on the evidence that needs to be produced. Your knowledge and understanding will be assessed using the assessment methods listed below: Where possible your assessor will integrate knowledge outcomes into practical observations through oral questioning. Observed work Witness statements Audio-visual media Evidence of prior learning or attainment Written questions Oral questions Assignments Case studies Achieving the external paper The external paper will test your knowledge of the criteria highlighted in white. A pass mark of 70% must be achieved. Criteria not achieved will be identified to your tutor/assessor. You will then be orally questioned or asked to produce other forms of evidence as all unit criteria must be achieved. Your assessor will complete the following table when the 70% pass mark has been achieved. Paper Date achieved Assessor initials 1 of 1 UV

12 Knowledge Outcome 1 Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair You can: Portfolio reference / Assessor initials* d. State the factors that need to be considered when perming and neutralising hair e. Describe the salon s requirements for client preparation, preparing yourself and the work area f. Describe the different consultation techniques used to identify the service objectives g. Explain the importance of carrying out the necessary tests prior to and during the service and recording the results h. Explain the importance of following manufacturers instructions i. Describe the range of perm and neutralising products, tools and equipment *Assessor initials to be inserted if orally questioned. Requirements highlighted in white are assessed in the external paper. 10 UV20512

13 Outcome 2 Be able to perm and neutralise hair You can: Portfolio reference / Assessor initials* i. Describe the effects of perm lotions and neutralisers on the hair structure j. Outline the factors that determine the use of different types of perming and neutralising products, tools and equipment k. Explain how temperature affects the perming process l. State the importance of accurate timing and thorough rinsing of products m. Explain when and why it is important to use pre-perm and postperm treatments n. Explain the factors that influence the choice of sectioning techniques and different sized perm rods o. Explain the method of checking curl development p. Outline the types and causes of problems that can occur during the perming and neutralising processes and how to resolve them q. Outline safe and hygienic working practices r. Describe the aftercare advice that should be provided s. State how to communicate and behave within a salon environment *Assessor initials to be inserted if orally questioned. Requirements highlighted in white are assessed in the external paper. UV

14 Unit content This section provides guidance on the recommended knowledge and skills required to enable you to achieve each of the learning outcomes in this unit. Your tutor/assessor will ensure you have the opportunity to cover all of the unit content. Outcome 1: Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair Preparation of self: Clothes (salon requirements for uniform, clean/ironed clothes, non-restrictive, closed-in low heeled shoes), hair (clean, healthy, manageable, off face), personal hygiene (clean body, teeth, workable length clean nails, deodorant, no overpowering perfume/aftershave), personal protective equipment (gloves, apron, prevent dermatitis), minimal jewellery, positive attitude, ready to greet. Preparation of client: Remove client s outer clothing, protect against damage, client relaxed and comfortable (posture, aids service), remove excessive jewellery (avoid damage to jewellery or skin), gown, towel, plastic cape, barrier cream, ensure client comfort, record card. Preparation of work area: Chair, trolley, work station, equipment cleaned, appropriate sterilisation (barbicide, autoclave, UV, sterilising spray), complete destruction of all living organisms on tools and equipment, disinfection (remove contamination from hard surfaces, large work areas, floors and work surfaces), heat or chemical methods, use of trolley, safe professional presentation tools and equipment, visual check on large and small equipment, electrical equipment checked, portable appliance test, select height of chair/basin. Consultation techniques: Use a variety of methods to ensure suitability of service, product and technique. Questioning open, closed, probing. Language appropriate level for client, use of technical/non-technical language. Client expectations/needs listen, clarify, advise, plan. History of hair hair tests, touch, feel, look of hair. Advice what will work, what will not? Use visual aids shade charts, style book, portfolio, collection of pictures. Service objectives amount of curl required, shape of curl, length of hair, longevity of service. Assessing the potential of the hair: Clarify the condition of hair, previous chemical services, benefit to client, identify influencing factors, test hair, compatible with client s lifestyle, review findings, what will work and what will not, draw conclusions, create a plan. Factors that influence services: Previous chemical services, percentage of grey, client requirements, tools and equipment, presence of added hair, maintenance of style suitability. Hair condition dry, greasy, normal, virgin, chemically treated, elasticity (strength of hair), porosity (damage to cuticle layer, the ability to absorb moisture). Hair cut/style uniform layer, one length, short graduation, long graduation. Temperature body heat, salon temperature, added heat. Texture fine, medium, coarse. 12 UV20512

15 Outcome 1: Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair (continued) Length short, medium, long. Density fine, medium, thick. Growth patterns cowlick, widow s peak, nape whorl, double crown, male pattern baldness. Skin tone fair, medium, olive, dark. Face shape oval, round, square, oblong, heart, pear. Head size large, medium, small. Existing curl tight, soft, wave. Lifestyle job, family, financial, time. Test results good, bad, caution, positive, negative. Hair and scalp contra-indications: Can prevent/alter service, product, technique. Types of condition skin disorders (disease, infestation, infection, defect, bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites). Skin sensitivities reaction. Allergies latex, nut, plasters, perfume, oil. History of allergic reaction positive reaction to skin test, colour service. Incompatible products metallic salts, previous chemical treatments. Medication prescription medication. Medical condition high blood pressure, pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer. Hair condition chemical, heat damage, environmental. Hair disorder contagious/noncontagious. Skin disorder contagious/noncontagious, cross-infection (stylist to client, client to stylist). Contagious: Bacterial impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis (yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pus filled spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or under skin). Viral warts (raised, rough skin, brown), herpes (blisters). Fungal tinea capitis/ringworm (patches, pink/grey, scaly, broken hair). Animal parasites pediculosis capitis (head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood), scabies (parasites, mites). Non-contagious: Psoriasis over production of skin cells, dry, silvery, scales. Cicatrical alopecia scar. Alopecia totalis complete hair loss. Male pattern baldness hair recedes at hairline or loss at crown. Traction alopecia excessive pulling, brushing curling and straightening. Alopecia areata stress, bald patches (seborrhea excessive oil). Dandruff itchy, white, skin cells. Dry scalp white, powdery. Eczema/dermatitis allergic reaction to detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping. Acne raised bumps and spots. Defects of the hair: Fragilitas crinium split, dry ends. Monilethrix beaded hair. UV

16 Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd. Outcome 1: Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair (continued) Trichorrhexis nodosa rough, swollen, broken shaft. Sebaceous cyst sebum filled lump. Damaged cuticle dull hair. Salon health and safety legislation and regulations: Health and safety at work, control of substances hazardous to health, reporting of injuries diseases and dangerous occurrences, personal protective equipment, electricity at work, manual handling, supply of goods and services, trade description, data protection, employers liability (compulsory insurance), occupiers liability, local by-laws (set by council), salon rules, code of conduct, observance by all staff. Hair tests: Use manufacturer s instructions, salon guidelines, before during and after service. What each test checks for: Elasticity test tensile strength, internal strength of hair. Porosity test ability to absorb product, moisture loss from hair. Skin test allergic reaction to chemicals. Pre-perm test curl suitability for service, size and shape of curl. Incompatibility test check for presence of metallic salts, suitability of further chemical services. Development test curl monitor the development of the perm. Test cutting check suitability of colour choice. Testing and recording results: Record card up-to-date and accurate, essential information, for future reference, professional image, legal implications. Following manufacturers instructions: On bottle, packaging, leaflet, colour chart, ensures successful service, storage (temperature, location, light), handling (correct mixing), use (application, removal), disposal (dilution products, recycle empties), prevents legal action. Range of perm lotions: Acid, alkaline, exothermic, varieties available (virgin, resistant, normal, coloured, fragile). Range of neutralising agents: Based on hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromate. Range of products used during the perming process: Barrier cream, preperm treatment, cleansing/clarifying shampoo, anti-oxidant conditioner, perm lotion, neutraliser agent. Range of tools and equipment used for perming and neutralising: Perm curlers (various sizes) spiral perm curlers, bendy rods, plastic perm rollers, plastic pin curl clips. Equipment pintail comb, wide tooth comb, sectioning clips, end papers, cotton wool, drip tray, plastic bowl/neutralising sponge, towels, tissue paper, personal protective equipment (disposable gloves, apron and cape), tension rods, climazone. 14 UV20512

17 Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair Professional communication in a salon environment: Try to avoid technical language, always respond, consider client s confidentiality. Verbal speaking (tone of voice, the language you use, how quickly, clearly), questioning (open, closed, probing). Non-verbal body language, positive attitude (your posture, facial expressions, hand gestures, the distance you stand), listening (be patient, try to understand). Written visual aids, magazines, client records. Behave professionally in a salon environment: Follow health and safety practice and procedure, salon code of conduct, respect others, value client(s), cooperate with others (be sympathetic, fair, not aggressive), use appropriate language, avoid gossip, maintain confidentiality, polite/cheerful and friendly manner, friendly facial expressions, open body language, positive attitude, eye contact, sensible behaviour, team work, pride in work, punctuality, employer and client loyalty. How to choose a suitable product: Choice of lotion, strength of lotion, condition of hair, hair texture, degree of curl or movement required, record of previous treatment, manufacturer s instructions. Sectioning techniques: Nine section methodical winding, hair sectioned into 9 sections (most used method). Directional supports the style, rollers to be placed in the same direction as finished result. Brick rollers placed in a brick formation, avoids partings, good for keeping hair back off of the face. Taking a meche of hair during perm winding: Sections to be same width and length as curler or rod. Winding techniques: Croquinole (points to roots), spiral winding (roots to points), wind at 90 degrees, even tension, curler wound parallel to section, long hair wiggle when winding, curler to sit on own base. Size of perm curler: Variation of rod size, diameter of curler, various sizes colour coded, green the smallest (very small, tight curl, short hair), black the largest (large bouncy curl/root lift). Monitor the process: Accurate timing, use timer, perform regular development test curl, check for S or C formation, manufacturer s guidelines, prevent legal action, successful result. Development time: Manufacturer s guidelines, variation on each product, point when desired curl is achieved. Following manufacturers instructions: On bottle, packaging, leaflet, colour chart, ensures successful service, storage (temperature, location, light), handling (correct mixing), use (application, removal), disposal (dilution products, recycle empties), prevents legal action. Why it is important to rinse neutralising products from hair: Sulphur bonds will not reform fully, incorrect result achieved, creeping oxidation, deterioration of hair condition. Removal method use manufacturer s instructions for individual products, thorough rinsing, average time 10 minutes, long hair requires longer rinsing, check for UV

18 Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd. Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair (continued) successful removal, no remaining smell, hair in rod loses its oily feel. Water temperature and flow: Check temperature on wrist, warm water, flow not too strong (create splashing), confirm client comfort through rinsing, water too hot (burn hair and scalp), water too cold (uncomfortable for client), cool/warm water recommended for neutralising. How to follow safe and hygienic working practices: Maintaining a safe salon clean, tidy, safe standards of working, remove spillages, report slippery surfaces, remove/ report obstacles, clear access to trolleys and equipment, clean/sterilise/disinfect tools, equipment, work surfaces, no smoking, eating, drinking or drugs in salon, professional personal hygiene. Personal protective equipment wear protective equipment, avoid latex, powdered gloves, apron. Electricity at work visual check of equipment, no trailing wires, portable appliance testing. Manual handling moving stock safely, lifting, working heights, unpacking. Towels wash regularly, clean for every client, place dirty towels in covered bin. Reporting of injuries diseases and dangerous occurrences accident book, reporting diseases, log accidents. Control of substances hazardous to health store, handle, use, disposal, replace lids, ventilation for vapour and dust, avoid overexposure to chemicals, use manufacturers instructions for use. Disposal of waste sharps box, closed top bin, dilute chemicals with running water, environmental protection, salon policies for hazardous waste, single use items, recycle empties. Product storage check end date/ packaging, store away from heat/damp/ direct sunlight, empties avoid theft. Provide suitable aftercare advice: Important part of service, avoid technical language, maintain eye contact, suggest/ advise/recommend, provide information. Maintenance frequency of visit, regular services, minimise chemical treatments, correct use of electrical equipment, product use and demonstration. Effects of perm lotion on the hair structure: Softening stage opens, swells, lifts the cuticle scales, alkaline product. Moulding stage deposits hydrogen into cortex, hydrogen attaches to the disulphide bonds, disulphide bonds break into individual sulphur bonds, from cystine to cysteine, amino acids, takes shape of the perm curler, amount of disulphide bonds broken varies per lotion type, approximately 20%. Fixing stage oxidation process, removal of hydrogen by the addition of oxygen, oxygen joins with hydrogen to make water (H 2 O), water floods out of cortex, disulphide bonds reformed, acid ph. The effects of temperature on the perming process: Heat speeds up processing time, helps to open/swell cuticle scales, manufacturer requirement, some are self heating, some need additional heat. 16 UV20512

19 Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair (continued) Cold slows down processing time. Type of heat: Body heat client feeling cold, warm, hot, perspire through scalp. Salon temperature summer, winter, central heating, air conditioning. Additional heat climazone, hood dryer, use of towels. The importance of accurate timing: Manufacturer s instructions, prevents over/ under processing, prevents deterioration of hair condition, successful result. Pre-perm treatments: Porosity leveller, used prior to perming, evens out porosity, even penetration of perm lotion into cortex, hair more pliable, available in individual sprays/bottles. Post-perm conditioners: Acid ph, antioxidant conditioner, restores natural ph, prevents creeping oxidation, closes/smooth cuticle, applied after final neutralising rinse. The types and causes of problems: Perm slow to develop re-apply lotion, apply added heat. Skin sensitivity remove lotion immediately, rinse cool water, advise client to visit doctor. Perm curlers fall out replace rod, add tension rod, net. Fish hooks cut ends of hair. Frizziness restructurant conditioner, cut. Uneven curl re-perm if condition allows. Curl too loose re-perm if condition allows. Curl too tight relax if condition allows. Breakage restructurant conditioner, cut. Straight areas re-perm if condition allows. Loss of hair colour apply semi/quasi after neutraliser. Rubber band markings monitor, use tension rods in future, restructuring treatments. UV

20 Notes Use this area for notes and diagrams 18 UV20512