Lucky. Charm PLUS. Denim Trio Rolling Out Exhibitors Eye Growth Spurt SECTION II

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1 WWDCOTERIE SECTION II PLUS Denim Trio Rolling Out Exhibitors Eye Growth Spurt PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: NATT/TRUMP; HAIR BY KATSUMI MATSUO AND MAKEUP BY KONSTANZE, BOTH AT ARTMIX BEAUTY; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY Lucky Charm Heritage plaids and riffs on men s wear topped many a designer s list for fall. Here, an example: Clover Canyon s Neoprene dress in Irish checks and coats of arms, worn with Wolford hosiery and Steven booties, will be on display at the Coterie trade show at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center Sunday to Tuesday.

2 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM WWDCOTERIE Denim Connection Coterie is cementing its place as the preferred venue for unveiling new lines in fashion denim. By KHANH T.L. TRAN LOS ANGELES Established jeans brands including J Brand and Seven For All Mankind have often chosen to display their latest women s collections at Coterie rather than more denim-centric trade shows. At the upcoming edition, Koral Los Angeles, Velvet by Graham & Spencer and Mia & Moss are following their example. Koral Los Angeles is prepping the debut of a new sportswear category with the former creative director of Donna Karan, while knits purveyor Velvet by Graham & Spencer is expanding into denim and start-up Mia & Moss is making a play on price. Koral Los Angeles Created two years ago, Koral Los Angeles is ready to evolve from a jeansmaker to a full fashion brand. Under the consultancy of Bonnie Young, a New York designer who started a namesake women s and children s label after logging 16 years as the creative director of Donna Karan, it s finessing a sportswear collection that borrows from men s wear, using denim as a foundation for tailored pieces accentuated with silk, fur, rayon jersey and crisp cotton. For instance, a denim anorak tinted dark blue is a pliable protectant against nature s chills when coupled with a silk lining and raccoon fur collar. Testing the coat this winter, Young has attracted potential customers with sophisticated tastes, like art curator Yvonne Force Villareal. It really upped the level of just denim, Young said. Peter Koral, the brand s namesake founder, said the denim industry is going through a cycle. He would know as the cofounder of Seven For All Mankind, which VF Corp. acquired for $775 million in With his son David, Koral is navigating the Vernon, Calif.-based company through a fragmented market where retailers are consolidating the lines they stock. Everybody s making out to include more than denim, including us, he said. David added, Fashion is changing in front of our eyes. It s important that we adapt. The introduction of the 40-plus pieces for fall is expected to boost Mia & Moss is appealing to priceconscious shoppers with $99 jeans. Velvet by Graham & Spencer is launching jeans in 15 washes for fall. sales to $15 million this year from $10 million last year. Europe is a prime target. Koral has 345 accounts there compared with 110 in the U.S. and sales through European retailers including Mytheresa.com, Selfridges, Harrods and Le Bon Marché are up 58 percent from a year ago. Plus, Young, with her decade-long stint living in Milan, possesses a European sensibility that is conveyed in her neutral-tinted designs for Koral. For example, a $95 basic T-shirt is anything but in gray cotton and rayon stitched with a French seam and cut with a high-low hem. A $491 tailored blazer incorporating indigo and black denim is roughened with frayed edges on the lapel and back seam. There is also a drop-crotch denim trouser and oversize white cotton shirt with mandarin collar, retailing for $322 each. A lot of people treat denim like it s more street and very casual, Young said. The collection I did is dressed up and dressed down. Velvet by Graham & Spencer When it opened its first two stores in Los Angeles last year, Velvet by Graham & Spencer discovered that customers hankered to buy the jeans styled with its shirts on the mannequins. The problem was, the jeans were made by other brands that the store bought solely for display. Still, the Culver City, Calif.-based company recognized a business opportunity. For fall, the 17-year-old brand is introducing jeans made in Los Angeles from U.S.-produced fabric. Retailing for $148 to $168, the inaugural collection includes a trio of bodies skinny, boyfriend and tuxedo in 15 washes that span the spectrum from stonewashed gray to jet black to dark blue faded with whiskers. In addition to its own stores in Los Angeles Venice and Brentwood neighborhoods and its Web site, Velvet plans to offer the jeans to U.S. retailers such as Anthropologie, Saks Fifth Avenue and Shopbop.com, as well as to wholesalers in Europe, Japan, Canada, Australia and New Zealand. It s already received a buying commitment from Bloomingdale s. The first-year projection is to sell more than 20,000 units to wholesale accounts, helping the company to achieve its goal of increasing annual sales by at least 15 percent this year. It s very clean, very simple, with no fancy back pockets just because we want the longevity [of the wear], said codesigner Jenny Graham, adding that the exterior branding is limited to embossing of the brand name on the waist button and one rivet on the front left pocket. Velvet s first experimentation with denim came in the current spring season, when it produced a vintageinspired jeans jacket for the sophomore collaboration it did with model Lily Aldridge, who took eight pairs of jeans home with her. We don t want to compete with other denim companies to do everything, said codesigner Toni Spencer, who started her career at denim company L.E.I. We want to keep it true to our customer. Nonetheless, Velvet is growing beyond the niche of knit tops. Roomy totes and zippered clutches fashioned out of colorfully dyed leather will hit its retail network this spring. Plus, it needs more wares to stock its branded stores. Henry Hirschowitz, the company s chief executive officer, said, We re looking at [opening] two to three stores in the next 12 months. Mia & Moss For Mia & Moss, the sweet spot at retail is $99. Making its premiere at Coterie only a week after delivering the first shipments from its initial collection to 60 specialty stores, the Los Angeles label hopes to attract customers who want to combine value with luxury. Its answer to that formula is a cashmerelike fabric that is essentially rayon-wrapped cotton woven in its own textile mill in China. By handling everything from fabric production to cut-and-sew operations, it can control costs and keep the wholesale price under $50. For fall, Mia & Moss nearly doubled the number of styles to 30 and introduced outerwear. Denim moto jackets and blazers complement the straight, skinny and slim boot cuts that integrate moto details and $8.68 billion SALES OF WOMEN S JEANS FOR 12 MONTHS THROUGH OCTOBER SOURCE: THE NPD GROUP INC. acid washes. For the dark washes, it locked in a color fastener so that the indigo won t rub off. Though new to the branded denim sector, ceo Carlo Ghailian started in the private-label sector 20 years ago. Between producing clothes bearing tags for NYDJ, Torrid, Wet Seal, Charlotte Russe, Bon Ton and Macy s, and operating the textile mill, his company, E. 8th Group, generates $60 million in annual revenue. In the first year of selling Mia & Moss, he hopes to reach $1 million in sales. I m offering a quality that would typically wholesale from $70 to $90 for $38 to $45, Ghailian said. The price is definitely the clincher. VELVET AND MIA & MOSS PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: LIU XU/TRUMP; HAIR BY KATSUMI MATSUO; MAKEUP BY KONSTANZE, BOTH AT ARTMIX

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4 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM WWDCOTERIE Brands Adding Value and Variety By MARC KARIMZADEH PLANNING FOR healthier times seems to be the mantra for many vendors as they head into Coterie with renewed enthusiasm for business growth. Such widespread sentiment starts right at the top, at show organizer ENK International. Retailer preregistration is tracking in a positive direction, said ENK International president Tom Nastos. We anticipate international buyer attendance to increase this coming Coterie. On the exhibitor side, we have quite a number of new and noteworthy brands. So for both sides, there is the potential of opening up new business. Overall, the mood is optimistic and we have implemented a few added value programs to ensure attendees can make the most of their buying trip. Among the programs is a special area that allows VIP attendees to accelerate the check-in, as well as a VIP Cafe. Other elements such as cell phone chargers and laptops on the show floors are being introduced to encourage the social conversation, according to Nastos. The rise of interactive and social aspects of information sharing is influencing buying behaviors more than ever, he said. We find bloggers and consumers utilizing social information channels to exchange product excitement on the fly fascinating. Hence, we will show that conversation live at our events to inspire and excite retailers. Set for Sunday through Tuesday at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, the show will feature almost 150 Coterie newcomers, including Marchesa Voyage, Pam & Gela, Tumi Outerwear, Nili Lotan, Hotel Particulier, Italia Independent and Rodebjer. Though not a Coterie first-timer, White + Warren is evolving in a new direction, led by head designer Amanda Ferrer, a recent hire, and her creative team. We will offer twice as many novelty styles as in the past details include leather, multistitch patchwork and high-contrast chevron fur, said White + Warren founder Susan White. A capsule of men s cashmere will be introduced at Coterie for the first time. Finally, everyone will be able to buy these tried-and-true [White+Warren] styles, which have been successful on our site for years. As for trends, pattern work will play a key role for many exhibitors. Spanish brand Lavand, for example, will feature a series of exclusive prints, each embodying the story of the Lavand woman through patterns displaying bold florals, intricate brocades and supple knits, said Lavand s U.S. managing director, Katie Hurley. We look forward to Coterie as another step in our launch initiative for the U.S., Hurley added. This season showcases elevated and sophisticated dresses, coats, jumpers, skirts, trousers and accessories that are elegantly wearable. Meanwhile, designer Yoana Baraschi s key looks include oversize statement jackets and coats, and sweatshirt-and-track-pants combinations that are rendered in tech knits or printed Neoprene. Baraschi, who is looking to boost her international and digital presence at Coterie, is focusing on a more sporty and luxe approach with lots of two-piece looks inspired by athleticwear and rendered in combinations of jacquard stretch knits, which were developed exclusively for us in France. AT A GLANCE What: Coterie, with TMRW and Sole Commerce Where: The Jacob K. Javits Convention Center 11th Avenue and West 37th Street Dates: Feb. 23 to 25 Time: Sunday and Monday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Tuesday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Rokhsan Enanoria, creative director at premium denim brand Level 99, said high-tech fabrics are a focus for fall. Tailored trousers, precision-cut moto pants and slouchy skinny fits in denim are big focuses for us this season, Enanoria said. Digitally printed suede and beading also make an important presence in our collection. The Junk Food label is continuing its brand relaunch at Coterie. To do so, designer Hillary Justin is homing in on two themes for fall: Luxe Grunge and Neon Punk. Our Luxe Grunge collection is a juxtaposition of dark fabrics and color moods with matte metallics and embellishments, she said. Our Neon Punk collection is characterized by bold, unapologetic punk colors and hits of neon. Large-scale prints, printing over seams, stencils and offset print layers compose the graphics, which are influenced by authentic vintage punk band Ts that were printed by hand. A few key vendors are making changes to their presentation at the show, including Mackage. We recently remodeled our SoHo store and wanted to incorporate some of the new design elements we used at the store into the new booth concept, said Elisa Dahan, who cofounded and designs the brand with Eran Elfassy. Tadashi Shoji is introducing New Order, which, the designer said, simplifies and streamlines the ordering process. Everything will be taken digitally on an ipad versus handwritten orders. We also have a bigger space this season, which will lend itself nicely to the presentation. California lines are coming to Coterie with new brand extensions. Sanctuary Clothing, of Burbank, Calif., is unveiling dove-gray backpacks, crimson clutches, houndstooth handbags and other accessories for fall, produced under license by Traveler s Choice. Retail prices run from $98 to $328. Meanwhile, Garden Grove, Calif.-based Three Dots is updating its contemporary basics with surreal nature prints created by New York designer Timo Weiland. The 10-piece collection, including knit Ts and chiffon dresses, is retailing for $158 to $348. Expect all these developments to take place to a lively soundtrack, since ENK is readying the launch of the Coterie Music Channel. A CD will be handed out to retailers at the show with a 24-song sampling of the music we play at Coterie, Nastos said. Within that CD, users will also find a Web link to tune in to our Coterie Music Channel via our Shop the Floor platform. It is a growing project and this is the launch. Shop the Floor is a digital platform in which brands create a virtual showroom for year-round interaction with buyers; at the show, it allows for a digital ordering solution and a vehicle for buyers to search for products by name or category. Coterie will once again run concurrently with offshoot TMRW, which is touted as a showcase of tomorrow s premier brands, highlighting fresh talent and exceptional quality, as well as Sole Commerce, dedicated to upscale footwear and handbags. WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM KHANH T.L. TRAN A T-shirt from the Timo Weiland for Three Dots collaboration. A fall look from Lavaland. A Junk Food fall ensemble.

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6 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2014 SECTION II WWDCOTERIE Yoanna Baraschi s polyester top and pants set. French Connection s clutch; Janis by Janis Savitt s cuff; Trina Turk sandals. Go East

7 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 19, WWD.COM Katherine Kidd s Neoprene and acrylic fur top and silk faille ball skirt. Raoul cuffs. There s something decadent about the exotic prints and accents of the Far East, and this season designers took full advantage. Photos by George Chinsee; Styled by Kim Friday MODEL: NATT/TRUMP; HAIR BY KATSUMI MATSUO AND MAKEUP BY KONSTANZE, BOTH AT ARTMIX

8 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM WWDCOTERIE Tadashi Sojhi s embroidered cotton and nylon dress.

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10 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM WWDCOTERIE Andrew Marc x Richard Chai s leather dress. Janis by Janis Savitt necklace.

11 Triggers are the catalysts of change. Triggers led us here, to change what It means. It is street, because wherever we live, we re New York. And It is smart. It is equal parts savvy, equal parts chic. Because that never goes out of style Botkier New York, LLC #BOTKIER VISIT US AT COTERIE JAVITZ CENTER LEVEL 3 - BOOTH #3924

12 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM WWDCOTERIE Haute Hippie s silk and ostrich feather dress. Haute Hippie necklace; Hue tights; Guiseppe Zanotti boots. Sachin + Babi s matte jersey and leather embellished dress and pants. Janis by Janis Savitt earrings; Steven shoes.

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14 14 WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM WWDCOTERIE Basic Instincts Fall favorites like Genetic Calvin Rucker traditional plaids and great knitwear kick off the season at Coterie. AG Adriano Goldschmied C.J. by Cookie Johnson Quinn Equipment Ever PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY

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