And for the well-dressed Norse Man
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1 Stamped silver spiral arm-ring imported from Russia. This style was mostly found in Denmark (Margeson, p. 46). Raven coin from the reign of Anlaf Guthfrithsson (Richards, p. 131). Bronze buttons from Birka, Grave 716, from cm in length. These were found interspersed with a plaque belt (Arbman, taf. 93 and p. 249). And for the well-dressed Norse Man Penannular Brooch -- ~1 diameter; used to fasten up the neck of the under-tunic Cloak pins these run the gamut from plain bone pins to ornate penannular brooches Ring-Headed Pins found in Norse-Celtic sites; used to fasten cloaks or clothing Rings twisted gold wire and silver wire, also silver bands with stamped designs, jet, amber or stone Bracelets tend to be made of silver, either twisted wire rods or flat stamped sheet silver Arm-Rings often resemble bracelets and finger-rings, only made big enough to circle the bicep Necklaces beads show up in small quantities in Norse men s graves; other necklaces include torquestyle twisted wire neck-rings of gold and silver, respectively; pendants on cord were also common Garter Hooks small hooks that held the leg-wraps in place Buttons pewter buttons have been found in Birka on pouches and men s Rus-style riding coats Iron striker used with flint to start fires (Almgren, p. 184). 2.1cm and 3.1cm long copper alloy garter hooks from 10 th century York (Hall, p. 104). These were sewn onto the top of the leg-wraps. Two granulated cap mounts from different men s graves at Birka. Both graves contained lavish equestrian equipment. These are similar to conical helmet mounts like those worn by cavalry on the Black Sea. These may have been worn on conical leather or wool caps. The Slavonic-style mounts are imported from the Kiev State (Duczko, pp ). Filigreed and granulated Birka silver crucifix pendant (Duczko, p.56).
2 Jewelry for the well-dressed Norse Woman Penannular Brooch -- ~1 diameter; used to fasten up the neck of the shift or under-dress Tortoise Brooches length; used to fasten the apron-dress at the shoulders (see photo below) Equal Armed Brooch usually found mid-chest; fastened the shawl layer Trefoil Brooch originated from Frankish baldric hardware; these also were used to fasten the shawl Box Brooch primarily found on Gotland; replaces equal-armed or trefoil brooch Dog-head Brooch also a specifically Gotlandic item, these substitute for tortoise/other brooches Ring-Headed Pins found in Norse-Celtic sites; used to fasten cloaks or clothing (see photo below) Rings twisted gold wire and silver wire, also silver bands with stamped designs Bracelets tend to be made of silver, either twisted wire rods or flat stamped sheet silver Earrings a few pairs of earrings (of Eastern, not Viking design) have been found in Swedish graves Necklaces necklaces were worn around the neck and hanging from the tortoise brooches. There was a tremendous variety of beads available to Norse women (in glass, metal, horn, bone, amber, carnelian, crystal, jet and other materials). Coins, extra beads, hacked up gold book mounts and other small objects were suspended as pendants off necklaces to further adorn them. Knit wire necklaces have also been found. Grave finds indicate Norse women also wore small useful items suspended from the tortoise brooches. These might include an ear spoon, tweezers, a toothpick and/or a small mirror. Needle cases, whetstones, small shears, and keys have also been found hanging by chains or cords from tortoise brooches. The items above come from an early 10 th century Norse woman s grave at Cnip, Lewis, Scotland. The belt buckle is an unusual find in a woman s grave. (Graham-Campbell and Batey, p. 74)
3 Gold finger-rings from Fladda Chuinn, Isle of Skye (Graham-Campbell, VAG&SoS, p. 251). Amber beads and jet finger-rings found in a 10 th century workshop in York (Hall, p. 80). Bracelets & Rings for Arms, Fingers & Necks Twisted wire bracelets, finger-, arm- and neck-rings in gold and silver are found all over the Viking world. This simple technique was used with 2-20 wires. Plain bracelets and rings are also found in silver, jet and ivory. Two silver bracelets from Port Glascow, Renfrewshire, Scotland. The left one has unusual capped terminals on the twisted wire. The right ring-money bracelet is made of square rod with pounded terminals (Graham- Campbell, VAG&SoS, pp. 49, 179). Jet bracelet found in a woman s grave in southeast Iceland. Jet was mined in western England (Fitzhugh and Ward, p. 170). Five large Hiberno-Norse silver arm-rings from the late 9 th to early 10 th century found at Penmon peninsula, Red Wharf Bay, Anglesey, Wales (Sawyer, p. 92). Gotlandic bracelet of one twisted wire (Thunmark- Nylen, Taf. 150). Silver neck-ring from the Skaill, Sandwick, Orkney hoard (Graham- Campbell, VAG&SoS, p. 206).
4 Women s Brooches A pair of tortoise brooches makes your outfit look Viking. To close the mantle, use an equal-armed brooch, a circular brooch (see right), a trefoil, a box brooch, a penannular brooch or even a ring-headed pin. A pair of dog-head brooches with a single box brooch makes your outfit distinctly Gotlandic. A quick survey of the Gotland artifacts shows 30 pages of dog-head brooches and only 5 single tortoise brooches, 20 pages of box brooches and only 1 single trefoil brooch. Round brooches at the shoulders make your outfit Baltic or Finnish. Silver brooch with filigree cones from Birka, grave 642 (Duczko, p. 87). This bronze equal-armed brooch from Grave 854, Birka, was 17.6cm long. The chain likely connected this brooch to a tortoise brooch. The round areas have pins sticking out of them, which suggests jewels used to be there (Arbman, taf. 76). One of two horse-shaped brooches from Birka, Grave 854 (Arbman, Taf. 92). Gotlandic box brooch (Thunmark-Nylen, Taf. 64). This would be worn instead of a trefoil. This Scots Viking s brooch used to be a church item (Fitzhugh & Ward, p. 132). Bronze trefoil brooch from Birka, Grave 605 (Arbman, taf. 74). Gotlandic dog-head brooch (Thunmark-Nylen, Taf. 22). Side view of bronze tortoise brooch from Birka, Grave 605 (Arbman, Taf. 64).
5 Women s Brooch Accessories The items on this page would all have been hung from a Viking woman s tortoise (or dog-head) brooches. At least, that is the burial custom. Roughly, brooch accessories can be divided into two types toiletry items (earspoons, toothpicks, tweezers and combs) and sewing items (shears, thimbles, needle cases and a small hone stone). Toiletry items are often found grouped onto one ring. Keys hung from the brooches by a chain. A small chain can be worn connecting the shoulder and mid-chest brooches, though this is found more in Eastern Viking burials. Where chains are not found in burials, perhaps a leather thong, lucet cord or thin weaving was used instead. Connecting rings are usually of the thin-wire-wrapped-around-itself-several-times variety. Chains are mostly of bronze or silver. Bronze wire linked chain, Birka Grave 968 (Arbman, Taf. 113). This needle case from Gotland is still attached to the double chain by which it hung from the brooches of its owner (Thunmark-Nylen, Taf. 215). Silver earspoon (6.8cm long) and toothpick (6.7cm long) set from Birka, Grave 507 (Arbman, Taf. 172). Tweezers from Gotland (Thunmark-Nylen, Taf. 198). Keys represented wealth and status; women hung keys on chains from their brooches. (Fitzhugh and Ward, p. 84).
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