Balancing New Technology

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1 Nov EditionFour Balancing New Technology Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, quis nexerc tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequatduis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse molestie consequat. P2 / Letter From the Chair P3 / Meeting Details P4 / Employment Most recent industry positions available. See P5 / Regulatory update By: Tom Vichroski Final Page / Pages In History A look back at historic pages from the LISCC archives website for more.

2 Letter From The Chair Happy Fall LISCC! I hope all of you enjoyed the summer--liscc s summer was quite busy and fun-filled! It started out with a wonderful May Chapter Meeting at the Northport Yacht Club, headlined by Jonathan Monath from 3DPrintingEdu.com. I was happy to see a great turnout and I think everyone genuinely enjoyed the presentation. Your smiles were so big, people would have thought I 3D-printed them myself. Just kidding, I leave the printing to Mr. Monath. Our Annual Family Picnic in July was DINO-mite! The weather was beautiful, the food was delicious, and the dancing t-rex managed to escape the park unnoticed. If you have any information about its whereabouts, please contact Phil Martell. The boat for the LISCC Fishing Trip was packed to the gills and it was an amazing day on the water! Our Golf Outing was definitely a hole-in-one--filled with sunshine, runaway carts, and some people even played golf. Okay, now that all the puns and cheesy jokes are out of the way, let s get a little sentimental. I would like to thank all of you who attended events and volunteered this year. A special thank you also goes to our outgoing 2018 Executive Board--Casey Callahan (Treasurer) and Phil Martell (Secretary). You two were the best! I would also like to thank 2017 Chair, Brandon Nazario, for all his help and guidance. What makes this chapter special is that all of us work as a close-knit team. This year definitely would not have been a success without our officers and dedicated volunteers. I urge all of our members to continue getting involved! Lastly, I would like to thank the chapter for their support and for trusting me with the distinguished role of LISCC Chair. It was great experience and I loved every minute of representing all of you. I wish the best of luck to the 2019 Executive Board and continued success for our chapter. Cheers, Christina Romano 2018 LISCC Chair chromano@estee.com Ingredients and insight that inspire innovation. The science that drives your success. Our technologies and expertise deliver the essential functionalities you need to create the finest personal care products globally. Our range of aesthetic modifiers, conditioning agents, rheology modifiers, film-formers, cleansing agents, emulsifiers and active ingredients provide you with easy-to-use solutions for formulating innovative and more sustainable products. We strive to help you set the standard for performance and consumer appeal. Get to know AkzoNobel. Where science is a thing of beauty Learn more at or

3 Thursday Nov. 1st, 2018 Chapter Meeting Guest Speaker Guest Speaker Marc Cornell K-Beauty: The Science Behind the Transformational Texture Phenomenon LOCATION TIMES TICKETS Fox Hollow Country Club 7725 Jericho Turnpike Woodury NY Cocktails: 5:30 PM - 6:30 PM Chair remarks/dinner: 6:30 PM Speaker: 7:00 PM Closing Remarks: 8:00 PM Members Tickets: $55.00 Non-Members Tickets: $60.00 Don t use Paypal? Call or Jennifer Recine JRecine@estee.com BIO Marc Cornell (mcornell@mar-keyconsulting.com) is consultant to the personal care and cosmetic industry. Marc has researched K-Beauty skincare trends and developed numerous transformational textures which continue to trend for this surprising sensorial skin care category. During his thirty-year career, he has worked in an R&D role for large (Merck, L Oréal Bristol Meyers Squibb, Union Carbide) and medium sized companies (Neostrata, ChemAid Labs, KV Pharmaceutical). For the last twenty years he has worked primarily on the research and formulation development of cosmeceuticals for various brands Skinceuticals, Neostrata, Biomedic, Strivectin, and La Roche-Posay). ABSTRACT Cosmetics have been around forever. The skincare routine has been refined over the years, but up untilrecently cosmetics have not been exclusively positioned as fun. The K-Beauty trend continues to sweep through the cosmetic world using social media and playful skin care application techniques. Underneath this fun, surprising image-driven cosmetic trend lies a host of applied scientific principles. We will explore K-Beauty not through the lens of social media but more appropriately under the microscope of science (colloid and interface science, skin biology, and physics). Join me for a hands on demonstration while we look behind the curtain on K-Beauty trends from a scientist point of view.

4 4 x 4 Active Ingredients Natural Exfoliants The Powder & Dispersion Specialist Sunscreen Technology Surface Treatments Dispersions Microspheres Film Formers Special Effect Pigments Natural Ingredients Delivery Systems Custom Development Global Manufacturing Innovation Technology Service Guy Padulo - gpadulo@koboproductsinc.com Jojoba Derivatives Polymers & Powders Emollients Emulsifiers Solubilizers Waxes Stabilizers Humectants Delivery Systems A Vantage Specialty Chemicals Business Employment Opportunities Be sure to visit our website employment page for more information about these position and many more. Colonial Chemical Senior Product Application Chemist Hain Celestial Reach the top with JEEN! Jeenate Structurants Jeelux and Jeesilc Silicones Jeesperse Technology Jeecide Preservatives BotanicalsPlus Natural Active Ingredients Regulatory Associate Barnet Products Senior Developement Chemist Barnet Products Account Executive PLEASE CONTACT MINDY or TO HAVE YOUR EMPLOYMENT COMMUNICATION LISTED IN THIS SECTION. ADS WILL BE RUN ON A SPACE AVAILABILITY BASIS

5 Nov-2018 Tom Vichroski Despite the current of stance of the FDA, new research published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology has determined that sunscreens rated SPF 100+ were significantly more effective than SPF 50+. This new research attempted to perform the test In real-world settings,... under conditions of actual use. Testing took place in Vail, Colorado. 199 test subjects wore their normal quantities, significantly less than the FDA prescribed SPF testing amount, of both an SPF 100+ and SPF 50+ sunscreen simultaneously during a day of downhill skiing, spending an average of 6.1 hours in the sun. In investigatorblinded evaluations, 55.3% of subjects were more sunburned on the SPF 50+ side than the SPF 100+ side, while only 5% were more sunburned on the SPF 100+ side; and 40.7% experienced increased erythema on the SPF 50+ side, compared with 13.6% on the SPF 100+ side. For more details see: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, May 2018Volume 78, Issue 5, Pages e2. SPF 100+ sunscreen is more protective against sunburn than SPF 50+ in actual use: Results of a randomized, double-blind, split-face, natural sunlight exposure clinical trial. J Williams, P Maitra, E Atillasoy, M Wu, A Farberg, D Rigel. Meanwhile...The FDA has announced three new efforts for sun protection products. The first is to ensure accurately promoted/ marketed sunscreen benefits. Second is to support safer and more effective sunscreen innovations, including Maximal Usage Trials (MUsT). And the third is enforcement guidance for the OTC topicals industry. This last portion is of particular interest to cosmetic marketers as FDA intends to address OTC sunscreen products marketed without approved applications before a final OTC sunscreen monograph becomes effective. Unless a potential health hazard exists, the agency does not intend to object to marketing without an approved application of OTC sunscreen products that have all of the characteristics outlined in the guidance. FDA expects to address sunscreen dosage forms and the effectiveness of various SPF values. For more details see /NewsEvents/Newsroom/PressAnnounc ements/ucm htm?utm_campaign = _Statement_Sunscreen&utm _medium= &utm_source=eloqua A user-fee program for nonprescription, OTC monograph drugs is currently being negotiated. See fda.gov/forindustry/userfees/otcmo nographuserfee/default.htm for the details. As of June 22, US exports to the EU will face new duty levels. The EU s move is in response to the Trump administration s new steel and aluminum tariffs. The EU stated in a press release that its intent is to rebalance bilateral trade with the United States at 6.4 billion. EU member states have expressed unanimous support. With a 25% tariff, the impacted cosmetic goods include lip makeup preparations, eye makeup preparations, manicure and pedicure preparations, and makeup or skin care powders, including baby powders, whether or not compressed, but excluding medicaments. The European Commission has also approved new sunscreens. Methylene bis- Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, or MBBT, has been approved both in the normal and the nano form. The last changes to Canada s Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist were more than two years ago. This June, Pigment Red 4 INCI nomenclature Red 36 and Red 36 Lake was added to the restricted list with a limitation of 3.0%. Also, the regulation regarding methylisothiazolinone was amended to reduce the maximum allowed concentration in rinse-off products to %. If a mixture of methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone is used in the same product the total concentration combined cannot exceed %. Meanwhile, Canada s Senate has passed the Cruelty Free Cosmetics Act The legislation, which would prohibit both domestic animal testing for cosmetics as well as the sale of cosmetics that have undergone any form of new animal testing after the ban comes into effect, will now move to the House of Commons. The bill was amended in the Senate to include a phase-in period to allow industry time to comply with the legislation. Also recently, the Canadian Senate endorsed the "Cruelty Free Cosmetics Act," which would prohibit domestic animal testing for cosmetics, as well as the sale of cosmetics having undergone any form of new animal testing. The bill now moves to Canada s House of Commons. While the EU raises duty levels, as of July 1 st, China will lower the import tariff on cosmetics, from 8.4% to 2.9%. In addition, China s State Council announced that it intends to relax market access for imports, promote international investment standards, structure regulations to protect the rights and interests of foreign capital and to promote strengthening the use of foreign capital. At the end of May, the California Senate approved the "California Cruelty-Free Cosmetics Act," The bill would ban the sale of cosmetics tested on animals or containing components tested on animals. The bill would take effect on Jan. 1, Violators face fines of as much as $5,000 plus $1,000 per day for continued violation. The bill now moves to the California Assembly and, if approved, goes on to Gov. Jerry Brown for his signature. The government of India has announced that it is set, perhaps within the next six months, to promulgate a new regulation that will require that cosmetic products must plainly state whether the product contains any ingredients of animal origin or are truly

6 continued vegetarian by the Indian definition of the term vegetarian. A group of organizations including Henkel, Johnson & Johnson, the Environmental Defense Fund, the Sustainability Consortium, Walmart and Target has published a sciencebased scorecard for the personal care industry, aimed at helping manufacturers create safer and more sustainable products. The scorecard addresses thirtytwo performance indicators for sustainable personal care products, grouped into four areas: human health impact of ingredients and product formulations, resource usage and emissions during sourcing, manufacturing and product use, ingredient disclosure to consumers, and, environmental and health impacts of packaging. The human health group includes a list of chemicals of concern which contains all the compounds on California's Prop 65 list of suspected carcinogens, the EU priority list of endocrine disruptors, and the list of carcinogens, mutagens and reprotoxicants under REACH Annex XVII. The stewardship list covers both intentionally and unintentionally added ingredients. Controversial siloxane D4, INCI: Cyclotetrasiloxane, poses a "negligible risk to the environment", according to an industry-funded analysis of data collected for the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). D4 is restricted under REACH in wash-off cosmetics. The conclusion is that there is negligible risk from exposure to the environment," said Karluss Thomas, senior director of the American Chemistry Council's Silicones Environmental, Health and Safety Center, which funded the study. "We think sufficient data exist to make a conclusive regulatory determination with respect to the risk associated with D4 in the environment... The study certainly supports there not being a need for any product content restrictions on the use of D4 in the US." he said. Hawaii s legislature has approved a measure to ban the sale or distribution in the state containing two sunscreens If signed by the governor, the bill bans the use of oxybenzone and octinoxate starting in There would be a prescription exemption. Effecting about 70% of sunscreens on the market today, the bill cites the "significant harmful impacts" the substances have had on Hawaii s coral reefs and marine organisms. It also notes that they "appear to increase the probability of endocrine disruption" in humans. PCPC replied in a statement the bill is "based on a limited body of scientific research from which concrete conclusions cannot be drawn". The Consumer Healthcare Products Association said the measure relies on "weak science". The "real causes" of coral decline are global warming, agricultural runoff, sewage and overfishing, it said. Further, CHPA called the legislature s action an "irresponsible action [that] will make it more difficult for families to protect themselves against the sun s harmful ultraviolet rays....banning oxybenzone and octinoxate key ingredients in effective sunscreens on the market will drastically and unnecessarily reduce the selection of safe and effective sunscreen products available." The US Department of Agriculture has released its proposed rule on GMO labeling standards. The proposal provides a more detailed definition of bioengineered food, but it doesn't say whether crops produced from gene editing should be included in the new definition. The rule includes exemption proposals for incidental additives and food from animals fed genetically engineered feed and it seems to offer multiple alternatives to requirements for truly transparent consumer labeling as well as confusing and obfuscating consumer labeling. You can read the full proposed rule at register.gov/d/ The Environmental Protection Agency has issued a draft strategy to reduce animal testing by finding alternative testing methods, increasing their use by chemical firms and using them for regulatory decisionmaking. "This draft strategy is a first step toward reducing the use of animals and increasing the use of cutting-edge science to ensure chemicals are reviewed for safety with the highest scientific standards," EPA Administrator Scott Pruitt said. California could be forced to defend the scientific basis of its carcinogen listings California Prop 65. A US federal court judge has ruled that the requirement for a manufacturer to label a product as a carcinogen violates the company's free speech rights if the statement is not clearly true. The particular case involves Monsanto s Roundup herbicides. U.S. District Judge William B. Shubb granted Monsanto s request for preliminary injunction enjoining the state from requiring warning labels for glyphosate. Judge Shubb reasoned that California depended too much on an analysis that glyphosate is a probable carcinogen, stating that the required warning would be misleading to the ordinary consumer in light of contrary analysis by virtually all other government agencies and health organizations. Justice Shubb continued, that the required warning for glyphosate does not appear to be factually accurate and uncontroversial because it conveys the message that glyphosate s carcinogenicity is an undisputed fact, when almost all other regulators have concluded that there is insufficient evidence that it causes cancer. If a wider interpretation sticks, California could be forced to defend

7 The Art & Science of Beauty phoenix-chem.com Presents: Cooking Is Chemistry To Please The Palate Linguine Putanesca This racy recipe comes straight fromthe streets of Italy. Legend has it that Italian ladies of the night (Putanesca) perfected this recipe and did so because they were short of time, cash or both. This easily affordable meal packs a lot of spice and flavor and will become a favorite go to for a quick dinner. 1 lb linguine 2 x 6 oz cans tomato paste 1 x 28 oz can italian peeled tomatoes, quartered 1 x 2 oz can anchovy filets 1 large onion, diced 4 garlic cloves, diced 1 cup fresh cut italian parsley 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp black ground pepper 1 tsp crushed red pepper 2 heaping tbsp capers ½ cup fresh basil, chopped 3 or 4 green onions (scallions), diced ½ cup olive oil 12 gaeta or kalamata olives, pitted and halved Pour olive oil in 4 qt pot over low heat. Add entire contents of can of anchovy fillets and oil. Simmer for 3-4 minutes, breaking up anchovy fillets and oil. Add onion and garlic and continue simmering until onions soften. Add both cans of tomato paste and simmer 3-4 minutes until smooth and mixed. Add peeled tomatoes, stir and bring to simmer. Add all remaining ingredients; simmer for minutes to complete sauce. Cook linguine in salted water per package ingredients, strain and transfer to warm platter. Pour sauce over linguine and serve. Grated Parmigiano cheese can be optionally added. continued the scientific basis for listing chemicals under Proposition 65, rather than simply accepting the findings of any one authoritative body. Also in California, both the Assembly and the Senate are considering requiring professional cosmetics to be labeled in a manner similar to cosmetics intended to be sold to consumers. A British court has ruled that L Oréal violated a patent for a hair protectant to be used during bleaching and coloring processes held by start-up company Olaplex. Olaplex seeks an injunction to prevent L Oréal from selling its Smartbond product. A UC Santa Barbara chemist and his student, Craig Hawker and Eric Pressley developed the formula, a dimelitate, in Pressley s garage. L Oréal says it will appeal. Litigation is still continuing in the US.

8 CONTACT US Need to get in touch with us? Feel free to call or us. We would be happy to answer your questions CHAIR Christina Romano CHAIR ELECT Victoria Ficuciello SECRETARY Philip Martel TREASURER Casey Callahan TREASURER ELECT Volodymyr Onyshchak ADVISOR Brandon Nazario NOMINATIONS / ELECTIONS Ruby Del Aguila MEMBERSHIP Susan Daly PHOTOGRAPHY Michael Eskalyo PLAQUES Joe Ettari EMPLOYMENT / STUDENT PROGRAM Mindy Goldstein / HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHER Mai Franz HOUSE Jennifer Recine NEWSLETTER ADVERTISING John Tobin AWARDS Julie Hidalgo SKI TRIP Ina Schlenoff AUDIO / VISUAL Jack Lombardi PICNIC NEWSLETTER / WEBSITE Sunni Thaxton / Volodymyr Onyshchak Ahmad El-Farram / PROGRAM Dara Getoff PROGRAM Pooja Prabhudesai EDUCATIONAL SEMINAR Christina Romano GOLF OUTING Paul Tchinnis ARCHIVES James Tobin REGULATORY Tom Vichroski LISCC WINERY TOUR Katie Gralton

9 Nature s Science. Our Technology. Your Beauty. by

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11 LISCC News and Upcoming Events EVENT DATES: TO BE ANNOUNCED! LISCC NEWS Spirit of Sam Award The Long Island Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists announces the Spirit of Sam Award in memory of Dr.Samuel Zuckerman. Sam passed away in November, 1995, leaving behind a tremendous legacy in the field of color, organic chemistry, and education. It is in his memory that we dedicate this award. Please visit our website for criteria for selection, nomination details, and previous recipients of this award.

12 Polar bear hair inspires stealth fabric Researchers have woven a cloak that makes a rabbit almost invisible to infrared cameras, thanks to fibers that mimic the structure of polar bear. Polar bear hair has a hollow core, which reflects back IR emissions from the animal s body. This structure helps prevent heat loss and keeps the bears warm. But the hairs can conceal the bears from thermal imaging cameras used in many nightvision devices. A team at Zhejiang University has used a freeze-spinning method to make fibers that are porous, strong, and highly thermally insulating. They consist of fibroin, a protein found in silk, along with a small amount of the polysaccharide chitosan. To demonstrate the thermal stealth potential of the fibers, the researchers wove them into a textile to make a little cape for a live lab rabbit. The rabbit s body heat was all but invisible by Advanced Materials thermal imaging, whether the background temperature was 40 C, 15 C or -10 C. Y Cui, Huaxin Gong, Yujie Wang, Dewen Li, Hao Bai. A Thermally Insulating Textile Inspired by Polar Bear Hair. Advanced Materials, February 14, Jimmy Carter had attack rabbits. Now they can be stealthy too!

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14 Our sustainable solutions come from natural origins. WHAT IS PRECIOUS TO YOU? When it comes to skin and hair care, the focus is on product performance and sensory attributes. Introducing Plantasens - our newest range of natural, sustainable emollients, emulsifiers, waxes & actives for personal care. Try Clariant ingredients for superior performing products with the right sensory profile. Committed to technology, formulation and superior nation-wide distribution. Distribution Locations - California - Florida - Illinois - Rhode Island - Texas Visit us at: LincolnFineIngredients.com or Call: Lincoln Fine Ingredients, Inc. 50 Industrial Circle, Lincoln, R.I., 02865

15 Lonza Personal Care Recapturing beauty through technology

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17 Across 1. Pitt nail? 5. Head of 10. Small programs 14. Kyle s learning method? 15. HVAC company that s hard to stop 16. Disagreeable person that s sometimes hard to swallow? 17. Discharge 18. Principal route 19. Jai 20. Emulsion type 23. Took charge 24. Music s rhythmic element 25. Funny pages character 28. Cohen or Baron Cohen 32. Adams or Falco 33. Derivitives of CH 3CONH Between Kent. & Miss. 39. South American rodents 40. Lampshade-shaped candy from Nestlé in Europe and Hershey in the USA 41. How a cosmetic feels, applies, smells, etc. 43. Footballer Tony 44. Potency determination 45. Primary low gear? 46. Defeats the highest levels? 50. Except a reservation? 51. No-sweats? 59. Snake charmer s instrument that s there, done that? 60. Florida player 61. Sushi component 62. Anakin Skywalker s friend in The Phantom Menace 63. Swedish actor noted for playing Charlie Chan 64. Waste allowance 65. Knocks bad sentences? 66. Transmits 67. Boatswain of the Jolly Roger Down 1. Ferment 2. Tomato in the Italian capital? Them s formulatin words!! "#!$%&!'()*+%,-(.!/01210%3,456(3789:+(;%3<3:6=! Quarreling 4. One kind of emulsifier 5. Discolor a wood finish? Jeff Bridges film 7. Kernel containers that hear well? 8. Opposed to counteracting? 9. One of three squares 10. Quickly 11. Guide a burner flame? 12. Smooth a level surface? 13. More furtive 21. A beam of Romano? 22. Mosque priest 25. Electrokinetic potential in emulsions 26. fixe 27. (B)oodles of Tanquerays? 28. Vocally improvises 29. The fruiting body of rust fungi 30. Andrews or Keach 31. Most common avacado cultivar!!!! 33. World rulers in a 1968 film 34. Balsam of Peru and hexyl cinnamal 35. Opening for Jim Morrison? 36. Plants frequently used in X-words 37. Carbon black, generally speaking 42. Latch part 45. Concern for PETA 46. The elephant in a child s room? 47. Bowel cleanser 48. Soak a severe incline? 49. Pitchfork points 50. Fowlishly strange people? 52. Everyone s individuality? 53. Death rattle 54. Laurel or Lee 55. Collect into a large puddle 56. George Wendt alter ego 57. Decision 58. Former location, present location or future location 28

18 12835 Arroyo St. Sylmar, CA Phone: The Soul & Science of Beauty. Evonik Industries AG Essen, Germany PHONE Evonik Corporation Hopewell, Virginia, USA PHONE personal-care@evonik.com responsibility-personal-care@evonik.com Technical Art Of Science, Inc. 300 Lackawanna Avenue, Suite 08 Woodland Park, New Jersey Phone: Website:

19 Imagine: Fake cheese...in France!!! Based on the European Court of Justice s 2017 ruling that soy and tofu products cannot be marketed as milk or butter, France is now looking to prohibit meat substitute producers from using phrases like steak or sausage to describe their meat-free products. French Parliament Minister and farmer Jean-Baptiste Moreau who is sponsoring the move, described the use of meat or dairy terms in labeling plant-based alternatives as deceptive marketing practices and false claims. The terms cheese or steak will be reserved for products of animal origin, he said. The Guardian, Sunday, April 22, 2018 : Only her hairdresser knows for sure??? Chanel to debut the world s first 3D-printed mascara brush Six printers, capable of producing up to 50,000 brushes a day, are aiming at a target of one million brushes a month, 3D Printing Industry reports. The manufacturing process is protected by several patents for 3D printed makeup brushes one is Chanel s, filed According to The Kit, The forthcoming Volume Révolution de Chanel Mascara went through 100 rounds of trials until the shape was perfected. The 3D-printed brush features individual strands that have a granular texture, increasing surface area. This is supposed to help mascara to better adhere to lashes. There are also microcavities in the core of the brush, which are designed to hold a large amount of mascara. Eric Lai in 3D Printing Industry, March 20, 2018 and Veronica Saroli in The KIT, Toronto Star Newspapers, Ltd. March 15, 2018 First Smashbox 3D printed lipstick, then Chanel 3D printed mascara brushes, then...? 3dprintingindustry.com

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23 Pages In History: January/February 1989