Clothing longevity and measuring active use

Transcription

1 Summary Report Clothing longevity and measuring active use Results of consumer research providing a quantitative baseline to measure change in clothing ownership and use over time. This will inform work and help to measure the success of actions under the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP). Project code: REC Research date: April 2013 Date: August 2013

2 WRAP s vision is a world without waste, where resources are used sustainably. We work with businesses, individuals and communities to help them reap the benefits of reducing waste, developing sustainable products and using resources in an efficient way. Find out more at Written by: Edward Langley, Stefan Durkacz and Simona Tanase (Ipsos MORI) Clothing longevity and measuring active use 6

3 1.0 Introduction WRAP is working with the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) 1 members to implement a sector commitment which will reduce the footprint of UK clothing through a set of action areas including garment longevity. The aim of this research is to improve our understanding of how long people keep and regularly wear their clothes for, and to establish a quantitative baseline figure for active use of clothing from which future changes can be measured. The methodology employed was an online survey via the Ipsos MORI Online Access Panel. In total, 3,244 panellists completed the survey. Quotas were set on a range of key demographics in order to ensure the survey covered a representative cross-section of the population, and the results presented are weighted to reflect the Great Britain population. Survey questions were cognitively tested. 2.0 Overall figure for active clothing use Expected clothing active use is calculated as a sum of the amount of time since respondents acquired a clothing item and the anticipated amount of time they will continue to wear it. The survey found the average active use of clothing is 3.3 years. This is an average across all types of clothing measured in the survey, across six different purposes for wearing. 1 Clothing longevity and measuring active use 7

4 Figure 1 shows that some subgroups are more likely than others to keep their clothes in active use for longer, including: men; older people; people on low incomes; people in higher social grades; people with a larger wardrobe (200+ clothing items); people who have a higher number of clothes they have not worn for at least 12 months (41+ items); and those who claim they do everything they can to buy clothes that are made to last and look good for longer; Clothing longevity and measuring active use 4

5 Figure 1: Active life of clothing by acquisition, occasion, and key subgroup 0 years Active life of clothing (1) 5 years + Clothing acquisition All New Second hand Clothing occasion Demographic profile Casual outside home Casual in home Formal for work Day or evening out Women K K Sports / outdoors < 10K 55+ Formal for an occasion K Men K Estimated active use varies by type of clothing. Ties, jackets or blazers, coats and outdoor wear are on average expected to be actively used for over five years. Leggings, bras and corsetry, knickers and underpants and socks, tights, and stockings have an expected active use of less than three years. Clothing longevity and measuring active use 5

6 Figure 2 below illustrates this. Clothing longevity and measuring active use 6

7 Figure 2: Time since acquisition vs. expected future use Time since acquisition (yrs) GARMENT: BLOUSE Expected future use (yrs) BRA/CORSETRY COAT DRESS FLEECE/BODYWARMER JACKET / BLAZER JEANS JUMPER/KNITWEAR LEGGINGS KNICKERS/UNDERPANTS NIGHTWEAR OUTDOOR WEAR PETTICOAT/CAMISOLE/SLIP SHIRT SHORTS/CROPPED TROUSERS SKIRT SOCKS/TIGHTS/STOCKINGS SPORTSWEAR SWEATSHIRT/HOODIE SWIMWEAR TIE TOP TROUSERS/SUIT TROUSERS T-SHIRT/POLO SHIRT/VEST Clothing longevity and measuring active use 7

8 3.0 Variation by clothing purpose Expected clothing active use differs depending upon the purpose for which clothes are worn. For example, from 3.1 years for Casual clothes for everyday wear inside the home or in the garden and Casual clothes for everyday wear outside the home, to 4.0 years for Formal clothes for an occasion outside of work. This seems likely to reflect a number of factors including the relative cost of the clothes, the frequency with which they are worn, and their relative durability. Across many of the clothing purposes, we find a correlation that people who say they are the most certain in their estimates of expected clothing lifetime also have a lower expectation of that lifetime. However, this does not necessarily mean that the overall estimate of clothing active use is an over-estimate, skewed by uncertain data. The proportions of respondents who are very uncertain in their estimates tend to be very small. It is also reasonable to expect that the longer ago clothes were acquired, the less certain people are likely to be in their estimates. In this circumstance, the correlation would be expected. 4.0 Individuals clothing turnover in the last 12 months 4.1 Ownership Respondents on average claim to have 127 clothing items in their wardrobe not including footwear and accessories. The average number varies by different types of respondents. The following subgroups are more likely than average to have a bigger wardrobe: women; middle-aged people; people in higher social grades; higher income groups; and people with a relatively high average estimate for expected clothing active use. Views on clothing sustainability are not a factor influencing the number of clothes in people s wardrobes. 4.2 Unworn clothing Respondents have on average 26 items of clothing they have not worn in the last 12 months. This represents one-fifth of their entire wardrobe, so there is potential to increase the proportion of the wardrobe in active use. The following sub-groups are more likely to have a higher than average proportion of unworn items: middle-aged people; lower income groups; and people who have not worn some of their clothing due to wear and tear. 4.3 Acquisition On average, survey respondents say they have acquired 27 items in the last 12 months. This figure is significantly higher for the following groups: women; younger people; people who have not worn some of their clothing due to wear and tear; and those who recognise they could do more to keep their clothes in regular use for longer and would like to do so. Clothing longevity and measuring active use 8

9 4.4 Disposal On average, survey respondents claim to have got rid of 23 clothing items in the last 12 months. The sub-group analysis shows the average number of clothing items that respondents have got rid of is significantly higher among the following groups: younger people; and those who recognise they could do more to keep their clothes in regular use for longer and would like to do so. The highest ratios of acquisition to discard seem to be among items that could be perceived as lower value. For example the figure for discard for Knickers / Briefs / Underpants is 52.5% of that for acquisition (2.1 vs. 4.0) compared with 68% for Trousers / Suit trousers (0.7 vs. 1.1). It maybe that recall of discarding these items is low. 5.0 Attitudes to clothing use and longevity 5.1 Unworn clothing Two out of three respondents (65%) say they own clothing which they have not worn in the last 12 months. Key reasons are to do with lack of suitability rather than a flaw with the clothing, for example they are no longer to their taste or they no longer fit. Other popular reasons include clothes designed for occasional wear, or reasons relating to wear and tear. Some of the subgroup differences that emerge are as follows: women are more likely to say clothes no longer fit or are no longer to their taste; wear and tear is more of an issue for younger people; older people are more likely to store items or not get around to disposing of them; and people on lower incomes are less likely to cite a range of reasons e.g. clothes no longer to style or taste, or no longer fashionable, indicating that financial reasons push them to keep clothes in active use for longer. 5.2 Acquisition choice Key reasons influencing choice of clothing are: comfort; value for money; and look and feel of the material. Altruistic ethical and environmental reasons are the least often cited influencing factors, although women and people with young families tend to be more likely to cite these reasons. Older people are particularly focused on clothes that are made to look good and last for longer, and being able to wash them at low temperatures. High active use of clothing correlates with factors around quality and value for money, low active use with factors such as fashion and branding. 5.3 Buying long lasting Half of respondents feel they already do enough to buy clothes that look good and last for longer, with a further 37% saying they would like to do more. Younger respondents, more affluent households and women are amongst the key target groups who feel they could do more to buy items that are made to last for longer and would like to do so. Men are more Clothing longevity and measuring active use 9

10 likely than average to feel they could do more to buy clothes which are made to last for longer, but are not interested in doing so. Survey participants are split when it comes to their ability to check clothing for durability and the extent to which they do this. This indicates there is significant potential to influence more sustainable clothing purchases, and more product information relating to garment longevity may be helpful. Those groups who are less confident in their ability to tell whether one garment will look good and last for longer compared to another include men, younger people and those who are not wearing clothes which they own due to wear and tear. Conversely when it comes to examining seams and stitches, women and middle-aged people are more likely to agree they usually take action. 5.4 Environmental consideration Regarding paying more for clothes that are made to look good and last longer, there is an appetite for more durable clothing. 52% of survey participants acknowledged they could do more to buy items that are made to last for longer while continuing to look good and would like to do so. Moreover, comparing results here with research for the Valuing Our Clothes report, it can be inferred that people do not equate clothing lifetimes with environmental impact. In the previous research only 13% said they would pay more for clothes that have less impact on the environment whereas here over half of survey participants agree they would pay more for clothes which are guaranteed to look good and last for longer. Not surprisingly this view is highly positively correlated with income. 5.5 Care for clothing Most respondents claim that they already do everything they can to look after items so that their clothes are kept in regular use for longer. Three in ten respondents could do more and would like to do so. Older people and those on lower incomes are more likely than average to say they undertake this behaviour. The perceived quality of clothing is an issue for a minority of respondents, who feel their clothing tends to wear out sooner than they would expect (17%). A minority of survey participants also feel they lack the skills or knowledge to care for clothing (16%) and there is also a desire for more information from a minority of respondents. Younger people and those who have not worn some of their clothes for at least 12 months due to wear and tear are more likely to feel their clothes are wearing out sooner than they would expect. There are a number of groups who are more likely to lack confidence in their ability to clean or care for garments, including men, younger people, and those on higher incomes. Many respondents wear a restricted set of clothing from their wardrobe, while the idea of being able to trade in clothes appeals to a sizeable minority (37%). This indicates there is potential to reduce the proportion of unworn clothes in British wardrobes. Clothing longevity and measuring active use 10

11 6.0 Conclusions The survey shows the average active use of clothing is 3.3 years. This is an average across all types of clothing measured in the survey, across all six different purposes for wearing. There is some variation in active use by the different purposes, with casual clothing having the shortest active use, both in and out of the home, and formal clothes for occasions outside of work (such as a wedding or funeral) having the longest years. While the majority of respondents are at least reasonably certain in their estimates of active use, estimations are consistently lower amongst respondents who are more certain in the estimates they give for the active lifetime of their clothes. This suggests that actual average clothing use may be lower than 3.3 years, although a more in-depth audit with households would be required to establish this. However, obtaining a more precise value of lifetime may be less important for the SCAP 2020 Commitment than having a reproducible measure that can be used to track changes in future years. There is potential to bring a higher proportion of the wardrobe into active use. The wide variety of reasons for which respondents have not worn items of clothing which they own imply a range of different actions are required in response. These need to take account of changing fashions, changing body-shapes, the sporadic nature of special occasions, a desire for more durable clothing and a lack of knowledge and skills on how best to care for clothes. There is scope for behaviour change, with around a third of respondents interested in doing more to buy clothes that are made to last and in doing more to care for their clothes so they are kept in regular use for longer. A slight majority of people feel they are doing all they can on both counts. However, even amongst this audience there is potential to do more to make better use of clothing, as twothirds of respondents agree they tend to wear a limited set of clothes from their wardrobe for much of the time.