Active Beauty Cristalhyal The 24 hours moisturising A Crafted by white technology
Focus on the product Water = 60% of us ur body is composed of very complicated molecules like enzymes and proteins, but the major and key component of us is simply water. More precisely, human beings are made of 60% of this vital fluid. Water diffuses into the blood, is circulated towards the dermis, and then through the different cell layers of epidermis before evaporating at the surface. To preserve the water content, skin acts as a waterproof cover thanks to its mechanical structure. The most external sublayer of the epidermis, called stratum corneum, is formed by layers of flat cells (corneocytes) bound one to each other by an intercellular lipidic cement. This cohesive structure forms a barrier ensuring partial waterproofing of the skin. Moisturisation is the first cosmetic benefit Moisturising the skin is the basic mechanism meant to preserve water content, softness, and tonicity. Indeed hydration is an essential factor in the maintenance of our beauty When the skin is affected by dehydration, the balance between transepidermic water loss (TEWL) and skins ability to retain water is disrupted, leading to skin discomfort. The lack of water within the skin also creates a visible negative appearance (dry, wrinkled skin). Give your skin a drink Cristalhyal is a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid with a very high purity. This biomimetic polymer forms a non occlusive film at the surface of the epidermis. Its water retention ability comes from this ball structure, in which the main part of water is mechanically captured, but not bound to the molecule. A retains 1,000 times its weight in water. 1. The water balance is preserved. Christalhyal s strong hydroscopic properties allow for retention of water at the surface of the skin, playing the role of a water reservoir. 2. TEWL is limited. Cristalhyal is a film former which protects the skin from external aggressions that may alter the natural lipidic barrier. It stops the peeling off of the horny layer of skin (stratum corneum) which would have allowed for greater TEWL. 3. The skin is soft and protected. Since water is being retained on the surface of the skin, and TEWL is being blocked, using Cristalhyal in cosmetic products provides a velvety skin feel.
Focus on the product Nature and structure Cristalhyal is a very high purity sodium hyaluronate with high molecular weight: 1 million daltons to 1.4 million daltons. It is a linear biopolymer belonging to the glycosaminoglycans family (GAGs). The primary structure of hyaluronic acid consists of a repetitive disaccharide unit, of sodium glucuronate and N-acetyl glucosamine bound by a β (1-3) bond. These units are linked with a β (1-4) bond. In solution, because of the number of anionic residues on its surface, A is able to attach to many free water molecules. CNa C 2 NCC 3 Primary structure of hyaluronic acid n The chemical structure of the molecule produced through biotechnology is completely identical to the endogenous one produced by fibroblasts and keratinocytes, making Cristalhyal a biomimetic active ingredient. Biotech production process The biosynthesis of Cristalhyal may be described briefly in the following 2 key steps: During the first phase, non GM lactic bacteria multiply on an adapted renewable substrate stemming from wheat fractionation. During the second phase, bacteria are placed under stress conditions. This leads to the production of hyaluronic acid. The polysaccharide is then concentrated, precipitated using bioethanol, and finally purified. Thanks to an industrial production process complying with ECCERT guidelines, Cristalhyal is ECCERT and CSMS approved for cosmetics.
Biological activity Film forming property by Raman imaging (ex vivo) 300µL of Cristalhyal at 1% (versus placebo) are placed on the surface of the explants. They are then incubated for 8 hours at 32 C. After incubation, the explants are frozen at -20 C and cut lengthways. The presence of specific markers of Cristalhyal at different levels is determined by Raman spectroscopy. Intensity (a.u.) 1.0 415 1413 0.8 450 Cristalhyal average Raman specrtum 5 μm 0.6 0.4 0.2 Skin + CA 5 µm Skin + CA 10 µm Skin + CA 15 µm EPIDERMIS 120 μm 0.0 500 Skin + CA 20 µm 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 DEJ DERMIS Wave length (cm -1 ) Results: Christalhyal remains at the surface of the skin to create a perfect non occlusive film (maximum penetration of 5µm). Moisturising efficacy evaluation by Confocal Raman spectroscopy (ex vivo) 200 µl of a solution containing 0.1% of Cristalhyal or water (control) is applied to the surface of 38 year-old woman s skin explants. After the 8 hours incubation phase, Raman measurements are taken. Water content of the skin is evaluated by calculating the areas under the ν vibrational bands between 3100 and 3600 cm-1 of the various explants, compared to the Raman measurements taken before the application. Results: The application of 0.1% of Cristalhyal significantly increases the water content of the Stratum Corneum up to +133% in less than 8 hours. Water content (area under the curve u: 3100-3600) 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Before application +85%** After water application +133%*** After application of Cristalhyal 0.1% ** p<0.01 vs control, Students t-test *** p<0.01 vs placebo, Students t-test
Biological activity Long lasting moisturising properties by Confocal Raman spectroscopy (in vivo) A panel of 24 volunteers applied 1mL of Cristalhyal at 0.1% or water on forearms. Area under the curve u: 3100-3600 40 35 +45%*** +42%*** The level of hydration of the skin before application 30 and after 8 and 24 hours is evaluated by Raman spectroscopy through the vibration band ν between 3100-3600 cm-1. Results: The application of 0.1% of Cristalhyal significantly increases the water content of the Stratum Corneum by +45% in less than 8 hours. This perfect hydration remains even after 24h by +42%. 25 20 15 10 5 0 ns 8 ns 24 * ***p<0.001 Student s t-test Water Cristalhyal 0.1%
Summary Technical information INCI: rigin: Preservation: Appearance: Sodium yaluronate Biotechnology Preservative free White Powder ther reference Cristalhyal FL is a solution of high molecular weight available: sodium hyaluronate (Cristalhyal ) at 1% Solubility: Water soluble Dosage: 0.01-0.3% Processing: It is an easy-to-formulate cosmetic ingredient. It may be incorporated in aqueous phase, during the first steps or at the end of formulation. Formulate at temperature below 80 C Claims Claims: Applications: Moisturising, Protecting Skin care: Moisturising products, Anti-ageing products Make-up: foundations, cream make-up (for eyes, cheeks, lips ) Givaudan Active Beauty Sales ffices Europe Givaudan France SAS 17-23 rue de la Voie des Bans FR-95100 Argenteuil (France) Givaudan UK Ltd Magna ouse 76-80 Church Street Staines, TW18 4XR (United Kingdom) North America Givaudan Fragrances Corp. 40 W - 57 th Street - Floor 17 NY 10019 - New York (United States) Asia Pacific Givaudan Singapore Pte Ltd 1 Pioneer Turn 627576 Singapore (Singapore) Givaudan Shanghai Ltd 298 Li Shi Zhen Road Pudong Zhang Jiang igh Tech Park 201203 Shanghai (China) Latin America Givaudan do Brasil Ltda Av. Engº Billings - 2185, Edificio 31, 1ºAndar - Jaguaré 05321-010 São Paulo - SP (Brazil) global.cosmetic@givaudan.com The data in this document ( Data ): (i) has been prepared by Givaudan in accordance with Givaudan s internal protocols and procedures; (ii) is provided to Customer for its information and internal use only; (iii) is provided without warranty of any kind, including, without limitation, any implied warranty of accuracy, merchantability, fitness for particular purpose or non-infringement of third party intellectual property rights. In no event shall Givaudan be liable to Customer or any third party for any losses, indemnities or damages of any kind (including, without limitation, any and all direct, special, indirect, incidental, or consequential damages or lost profits or revenues) that may arise out of, or in connection with, the use of the Data by Customer. Customer is solely responsible for assessing the accuracy and reliability of the Data for its own purposes (including, without limitation, Customer s end-use applications), and assumes all risks and liabilities arising out of or in connection with the use of the Data. LEAFLET-CRISTALYAL-09.16-1000 www.givaudan.com