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Springer Series in Fashion Business Series editor Tsan-Ming Choi, Institute of Textiles and Clothing, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong

This book series publishes monographs and edited volumes from leading scholars and established practitioners in the fashion business. Specific focus areas such as luxury fashion branding, fashion operations management, and fashion finance and economics, are covered in volumes published in the series. These perspectives of the fashion industry, one of the world s most important businesses, offer unique research contributions among business and economics researchers and practitioners. Given that the fashion industry has become global, highly dynamic, and green, the book series responds to calls for more in-depth research about it from commercial points of views, such as sourcing, manufacturing, and retailing. In addition, volumes published in Springer Series in Fashion Business explore deeply each part of the fashion industry s supply chain associated with the many other critical issues. More information about this series at http://www.springer.com/series/15202

Chris K. Y. Lo Jung Ha-Brookshire Editors Sustainability in Luxury Fashion Business 123

Editors Chris K. Y. Lo The Hong Kong Polytechnic University Hung Hom Hong Kong Jung Ha-Brookshire University of Missouri Columbia, MO USA ISSN 2366-8776 ISSN 2366-8784 (electronic) Springer Series in Fashion Business ISBN 978-981-10-8877-3 ISBN 978-981-10-8878-0 (ebook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-8878-0 Library of Congress Control Number: 2018935855 Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. 2018 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. Printed on acid-free paper This Springer imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. part of Springer Nature The registered company address is: 152 Beach Road, #21-01/04 Gateway East, Singapore 189721, Singapore

Acknowledgements We would like to thank Series Editor, Prof. Jason Choi (the Hong Kong Polytechnic University), invited us to contribute this edited book for the series of the fashion business. This is a precious opportunity to work with scholars, who are also sharing the same vision as us, to promote the sustainability practices and awareness for the fashion industry. We would like to thank all contributing scholars for their invaluable researches and thoughts. This book is partly supported by the Hong Kong Polytechnic University, funding G-UA5M. v

Contents 1 Opening: Sustainability and Luxury Brands... 1 Chris K. Y. Lo and Jung Ha-Brookshire 2 Sufficient Desire: The Discourse of Sustainable Luxury... 9 Katie Baker Jones and Joseph P. Jones 3 The Marketing of Sustainability and CSR Initiatives by Luxury Brands: Cultural Indicators, Call to Action, and Framework... 29 RayeCarol Cavender 4 Luxury Fashion Brands Versus Mass Fashion Brands: Data Mining Analysis of Social Media Responses Toward Corporate Sustainability... 51 Stacy Hyun-Nam Lee, Yi Zhou, Chris K. Y. Lo and Jung Ha-Brookshire 5 Thematic Analysis of YouTube Comments on Disclosure of Animal Cruelty in a Luxury Fashion Supply Chain... 75 Heejin Lim 6 Mining Social Media Data to Discover Topics of Sustainability: The Case of Luxury Cosmetics Brands and Animal Testing... 93 Chao Min, Eunmi Lee and Li Zhao 7 Cashmere Industry: Value Chains and Sustainability... 113 Sheikh I. Ishrat, Nigel P. Grigg, Nihal Jayamaha and Venkateswarlu Pulakanam 8 Sustainability in the Fur Industry... 133 Thomas C. C. Wong, Roger Ng and Lei Min Cai vii

viii Contents 9 The Drivers and Barriers of Luxury Sector Retailers to Adopt Energy Efficiency Technologies in Hong Kong... 153 Spencer S. C. Tao and Chris K. Y. Lo 10 Luxury Fashion and Peace Restoration for Artisans in Colombia... 173 Cindy Cordoba Index... 193

Contributors Lei Min Cai Jinling Institute of Technology, Nanjing, China RayeCarol Cavender University of Kentucky, Lexington, USA Cindy Cordoba Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge, LA, USA Nigel P. Grigg Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand Jung Ha-Brookshire Textile and Apparel Management, College of Human Environmental Sciences, University of Missouri, Columbia, MO, USA Sheikh I. Ishrat Ara Institute of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand Nihal Jayamaha Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand Joseph P. Jones School of Journalism, University of Missouri, Columbia, USA Katie Baker Jones School of Design and Community Development, West Virginia University, Morgantown, WV, USA Eunmi Lee Textile and Apparel Management, University of Missouri, Columbia, MO, USA Stacy Hyun-Nam Lee Business Division, Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong Heejin Lim The University of Tennessee, Knoxville, TN, USA Chris K. Y. Lo Business Division, Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong Chao Min School of Information Management, Nanjing University, Nanjing, Jiangsu, China Roger Ng Fashion & Textile Technology Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Kowloon, Hong Kong ix

x Contributors Venkateswarlu Pulakanam University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand Spencer S. C. Tao Institution of Textile and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Kowloon, Hong Kong Thomas C. C. Wong International Fur Federation, Kowloon, Hong Kong Li Zhao Textile and Apparel Management, University of Missouri, Columbia, MO, USA Yi Zhou Business Division, Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong