DJ - Jacquard Design

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Coordinating unit: Teaching unit: Academic year: Degree: ECTS credits: 2017 205 - ESEIAAT - Terrassa School of Industrial, Aerospace and Audiovisual Engineering 714 - ETP - Department of Textile and Paper Engineering BACHELOR'S DEGREE IN CHEMICAL ENGINEERING (Syllabus 2009). (Teaching unit Optional) BACHELOR'S DEGREE IN TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY AND DESIGN ENGINEERING (Syllabus 2009). (Teaching unit Optional) 6 Teaching languages: Catalan Teaching staff Coordinator: Mònica Ardanuy Prior skills It is compulsory to follow the course classes regularly. It is a practical course and the software used to design is only available at the class. Teaching methodology Sessions of theory Sessions of practical work at class Learning objectives of the subject OAG1. To known the possibilities and limitations of Jacquard looms. OAG2. To know how to choose the best way to design depending on the fabric to manufacture and the loom to use. OAG3. To be able to design Jacquard fabrics. Study load Total learning time: 150h Hours large group: 30h 20.00% Hours small group: 30h 20.00% Self study: 90h 60.00% 1 / 7

Content TOPIC 1. JACQUARD MACHINES AND CONFIGURATIONS Learning time: 12h 30m Theory classes: 5h Self study : 7h 30m 1.1. Introduction and history 1.2. Identification of Jacquard fabrics 1.3. Jacquard machines and implications on the design 1.4. Jacquard templates. Interpretation and implications on the picks 1 OE1. To understand the implications of the Design on the use of the Jacquard machines OE2. To be able to select the most suitable machine for the design to make TOPIC 2. INTRODUCTION TO JACQUARD DESIGN Learning time: 25h Theory classes: 10h Self study : 15h 2.1. Steps to follow for a Jacquard Design 2.2. Calculations for a Jacquard Design 2.3. Structures of weaves of one face 2.4. Structures of weaves of two or more faces 2 OE3. To know the effects of the number of warps and wefts used. OE4. To know the effects of the weaves used. 2 / 7

TOPIC 3. WEAVE DESIGN Learning time: 37h 30m Theory classes: 15h Self study : 22h 30m 3.1. Fundamental weaves and its application 3.2. Complex weaves. Double face fabrics 3.3. Weaves with more than one warp and/or weft 3.4. Unitary, Binary, ternary combinations 1,2 OE5. Two know the steps to generate a design TOPIC 4. PROCESS OF JACQUARD DESIGN Learning time: 37h 30m Laboratory classes: 15h Self study : 22h 30m 4.1. Previous calculations 3 OE5. Two know the steps to generate a design TOPIC 5. ANALYSIS OF JACQUARD FABRICS Learning time: 12h 30m Laboratory classes: 5h Self study : 7h 30m 4.1. How to tackle a design in function of one initial concept, from a picture or from a fabric. 3 3 / 7

TOPIC 6. CAD SIMULATION Learning time: 25h Laboratory classes: 10h Self study : 15h 4.1. How to tackle a design in function of one initial concept, from a picture or from a fabric. OE6. To be able to select the most appropriate method to make a project for a specific design. 4 / 7

Planning of activities ACTIVITY 1. THEORY CLASSES Hours: 62h 30m Theory classes: 25h Self study: 37h 30m Classes of theory Basic and complementary bibliography. Power point presentations Exam OE1, OE2, OE3, OE4, OE5, OE6 ACTIVITY 4. ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE STRUCTURES Hours: 25h Laboratory classes: 10h Self study: 15h To make analysis of complex structures applied to Jacquard fabrics Jacquard Fabrics Report of results OE3, OE4, OE5 ACTIVITY 5. VIRTUAL MATERIALITZATION OF JACQUARD DESIGNS Hours: 37h 30m Laboratory classes: 15h Self study: 22h 30m Simulation with CAD Basic and complementary bibliography. Power point presentations Designs simulated OE6 5 / 7

ACTIVITY 2. STUDY OF JACQUARD LOOM Hours: 12h 30m Practical classes: 5h Self study: 7h 30m Analysis of Jacquard looms Jacquard loom Bibliography. Power point presentations Deliverable OE2 ACTIVITY 3. IMAGE MODIFICATIONS Hours: 12h 30m Laboratory classes: 5h Self study: 7h 30m Treatment of images Computers CAD Image software Image OE5 Qualification system Exam: 30% Deliverables: 70% (20% 1st term, 50% 2nd term) 6 / 7

Bibliography Basic: Montava Seguí, J.J. Teoría del diseño de los tejidos de calada ornamentales y artísticos. Alcoy: Agrupación Empresarial Textil Alcoyana, DL 2001. ISBN 8493163503. Morera García, S. Dibujo y ornamentación de tejidos. Tarrasa: [s.n.], 1958. Watson, William. Textile design and colour. London: Longmans, 1946. Watson, William. Advanced textile design. 3rd ed. London: Longmans, [1948]. Galcerán Escobet, V. Tecnología del tejido, vol. 1, Teoría de los tejidos. Tarrasa: Editograf PINA, 1960. Galcerán Escobet, V. Tecnología del tejido, vol. 2, Análisis de tejidos y técnica de su fabricación. Tarrasa: Editograf PINA, 1961. Giudici, Oscarre. Tessuti di lana e di cotone: analisi e fabbricazione. 5a ed. Milano: Ulrico Hoepli, 1945. Goerner, Doris. Woven structure and design. Leeds: British Textile Technology Group, 1986-1989. Hernández Avellaneda, J. La tejeduría (algodonera). Sant Bartomeu del Grau: [s.n.], 2000. ISBN 8460713326. Hoye, John. Tejidos de algodón: nombres, descripciones y usos de los tejidos en crudo, blanqueados, tintados y acabados. Barcelona: Gili, 1952. Roca Lleonart, I. Tecnología del diseño en el tejido de calada. Terrassa:, 1988-1998. Complementary: Victori Companys, J. Tisaje: aspectos descriptivos y de análisis en el proceso de tejer. Barcelona: Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, 1991. ISBN 8476531206. Victori Companys, J. Tisaje 2: métodos de trabajo en el proceso de tejer. Barcelona:, 1997. ISBN 8476536410. 7 / 7