uniform UNIFORMLY STYLISH This month: The latest crew uniform styles and trends from nine of the industry s suppliers

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1 engineer stew chef UNIFORMLY STYLISH deck While the battle between style and function is ever present in the crew uniform market, these nine companies manage to pull off chic flair while still considering the rigors of the crew job. Pictured here is the men s Fieldstone Polo and Ashlar Shorts with the women s Pillar Polo and Arrowslit Shorts from Crew & Tailor. uniform PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF CREW & TAILOR STYLE & SUBSTANCE page 67 This month: The latest crew uniform styles and trends from nine of the industry s suppliers

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3 stew uniforms L A T E S T S T Y L E S STYLE & SUBSTANCE Can crew uniforms be both comfortable and chic? by Lauren Beck While crew uniforms are, well, uniformly similar in some ways hello shorts, skorts, and polos the uniform suppliers out there today are doing their part to stamp style and sass into new offerings. Nine of the industry s best share what s new for this year and the style trends to watch. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF ANCHORS & DOVE Anchors & Dove Anchors & Dove is releasing new uniform lines in September. Comfort and ease of wear is essential, says Project Manager Natasha Burns. With each new design, Anchors & Dove tests all areas of performance, she says. While it s important that new designs look good, they must be super comfortable and easy to wear, Burns points out. Their fabric includes a percentage of stretch to ensure crew comfort. In particular, Burns highlights their technical four-way stretch, which has been hugely successful, especially in the women s skort and men s walking short. It is a great fabric that is quick drying, wrinkle-free, machine washable, with a lovely, soft hand feel, Burns says. The company has also used crucial yacht feedback to update a few items of its core collection. Anchors & Dove believes crew feedback is essential in making sure our products are comfortable, flattering, and performing well, Burns says. We are constantly improving and expanding our product offering and a big part of that is the development of our fabrics, says Burns, who adds that the company has widened the fabric offerings for its core range. They work closely with the interior department to develop each uniform and offer a wide array of premium fabrics that are functional, elegant, and chic. They re also working on incorporating a recycled component and are considering more natural fibers like bamboo. Anchors & Dove is very conscious of the environment and our ecological footprint, Burns says. We work with ethically certified vendors in ensuring our footprint is minimal. Top: Women s Scoop Neck Top and Tie Front Short. Middle: Men s Crew Neck Knit and Classic Walkshort, with women s Frill Neck Polo and Capri Pant. Right: Women s Peplum Dress and men s Short Sleeve Shirt and Dress Pants from Anchors & Dove Anchors & Dove has launched its Return, Recycle, Reuse program. Vessels can return Anchors & Dove uniforms, the vessel s name will be removed, and the gear will be donated. The company has partnered with Melanesian Yacht Services, who will help distribute these items to villages across Melanesia. October

4 Crew & Tailor Based in London, Crew & Tailor is new to the market. They re very proud of their debut range manufactured in Britain, and including the Newel shirt, an alternative to polos, and the Chancel Tech dress, featuring hydrophilic material that pushes moisture to the outer layer to evaporate. They also offer a men s short the Transom short with the same properties. The men s Rendered Trousers include washdown safe pockets. We ve focused on quality (which is synonymous with the Made in GB tag) and enhancing the wearability of [the] crew uniform, says Sienna Patterson of Crew & Tailor. How? By focusing on fabric choice and purposeful design elements there s a strong focus on reformulating the expectations of a yacht uniform. The secret to their style? Our integrative collection pairs tailoring with textile technology and performance, Patterson says. As for trends naturally there s a return to tailoring. We forecast monochromatic color ways and there may even be a retro resurgence on the horizon, but this time around it s wearer friendly and technically advanced. The company has also developed a unique Crew ID system, which eliminates the need for iron-on tags and marking uniforms. The system simplifies the uniform inventory and allocation process, Patterson says. They re also working on a natural fiber line and a uniform recycling program. As Patterson says, I ve seen the clothing waste first hand when it comes to the end of a season. Left: The men s Newel Shirt and Transom Short. Center: Women s Arrowslit Shorts. Right: Women s Chancel Tech Dress and men s Newel Shirt and Bartizan shorts from Crew & Tailor Events Clothing This year, Events Clothing launched its Trimmer short range (pictured right), which was created from crew feedback and needs. [Crew] wanted a work short that was lightweight but durable, that was comfortable to work in but smart enough to be worn on charter, says Lindsay Gardener of New Zealand s Events Clothing. The material is quick drying and breathable with four-way stretch for comfort and movability, durable, and UV-protected. The range s success has spurred Events to expand the range to include a women s short and skort, and a pant for both men and women is now in development. The company also plans to launch new color options at year s end. Custom seems to be key. Crew don t want to be dressed the same as the crew on the boat docked next to them, says Gardener. Events offers a number of customizations to fit any need and budget. At the other end of the scale, full bespoke collections are on the increase with completely one-of-a-kind design and colors being offered. While custom might be king, This season has been all about dresses, Gardner says. While you might not go wrong with the black dress staple, Events is seeing more requests for custom colors and styles that push the boundaries of classic crew eveningwear. Gardener highlights the new EOS dress (pictured right), which incorporates nautical stripes that have proven to be popular on and off the water, season after season. What s fun about this dress is that the pattern allows for a mixing of color combinations. Another option, the Minerva dress, offers an elegant evening dress alternative where the chiffon outer layer can also be customized to match the vessel s theme. Eco is also a concern at Events Clothing the company is joining with companies like Patagonia to ensure its core range is bluesign -accredited. Bluesign products have passed stringent testing to ensure garments are produced in a way that protects the environment, the people involved in the manufacture, and the people wearing it, Gardner says. Recycled coffee beans infused with recycled polyester and mixed with 100 percent cotton make up the company s Grinder polo. PHOTOGRAPHY: (TOP) COURTESY OF CREW & TAILOR; (BOTTOM) COURTESY OF EVENTS CLOTHING 68 October

5 Floating Life PHOTOGRAPHY: (LEFT) COURTESY OF FLOATING LIFE; (RIGHT) COURTESY OF IDWEAR Every year, we aim at introducing new items to our collection by responding to what the majority of our clients would like to experience. Crucial to us is analyzing the market and following up with trends, says Annalisa Mutti of Floating Life. In other words, by being in line with our customer needs, style and design do not change drastically, but we are highly responsive to the market and are always in the lookout for product development. The Custom Collection was created three years ago, and Mutti says, Clients demand [a] top-quality garment at a reasonable price. We do our best in guaranteeing to find the best solution to their needs. New this year for Floating Life is the Pica, a technical formal dress (pictured right), and Pintaca, a technical formal shirt. Both have received good feedback. Nowadays, specific treatments guarantee fabrics to be breathable, comfortable, fresh, and ideal for every situation in the life of a yachtie, Mutti says. Floating Life maintains that the yachting industry is moving away from cottons. The future shines for technical fabrics, Mutti says. One of those is polyamide, which is revolutionary. It is hypoallergenic; therefore, unlikely to cause any reactions and ultimately offers a sense of freshness all day long, Mutti says. Sensitive is another fabric that Mutti says is innovative, perfect for sharp cuts and whose fibers are very thick between them to allow maximum perspiration. Customization is no problem the company offers a design consultancy service, available 24/7, that can custom create any outfit, regardless of color and fabric. style.floatinglife.com Floating Life has had a busy year, establishing multiple new partnerships, including MCK Suppliers in Holland, Ino Yachting in Turkey, and is looking to establish a relationship with a local entity in the U.S. The company also opened a new office in Monte Carlo. IDwear IDwear is expanding outside yachting. These commercial customers appreciate the modern looks and level of quality the yachting industry demands, and want the same for their staff, says Steve Mosher. Their lines can be seen in several new boutique hotels, bars, and restaurants. We are always working on new designs for our line, and we watch and listen to what customers are responding to when deciding on what new garments to manufacture next, says Steve Mosher of IDwear. Currently, they re looking into a new Bermuda short and a Capri pant as trends seem to be pointing to them coming back IDwear will consider reintroducing these to its core line. In keeping with the fashion trends, as well as the popularity of the fabric in our garments, we will be manufacturing these new items in our mechanical stretch microfiber fabric, which everyone loves, Mosher says. It is a super comfortable stretch, wrinkle-resistant, breathable fabric that is easy to care for. The company constantly tests new fabric technology. All prewashed cotton products, Mosher points out, can still shrink up to five percent after the first 10 washes. It might not sound like a lot, but it is! We sanforize all our cotton products beforehand, which guarantees less than 0.2 percent shrinkage, Mosher says. Recently, we were experimenting with 3D resin logos, Mosher says. In recent years, Mosher notes, some boats have turned to external brands for seasonal looks. While IDwear understands the desire to switch it up, and are happy to help source items, Mosher points out that it comes with issues the problem with buying these high-fashion brands is that after one season, they are discontinued, which in yachting is always a headache. That s why IDwear s core line which includes both classic looks and more modern fun pieces is designed with a five-year shelf life, which allows for uniform continuity. This alone is worth its weight in gold in the yachting industry, Mosher says. October

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7 Liquid Yacht Wear Theresa Morales of Liquid Yacht Wear points out that the growing size of vessels has affected uniform design. Radios are now no longer an option; they are needed by all, she says. Liquid s new dress, the Secret Service Dress, has been designed with that in mind the belt is purposefully created to be able to bear a radio s weight. It s also a reinforced buttonhole-type treatment in the side seam so that the earpiece and wire can run through the dress, thereby being hidden, Morales explains. More boat size equals more deck space, so that was weighed in design considerations. To keep our stews cool and looking their best, not only does the fabric have to be lightweight, but it cannot be see-through in the outdoor light, says Morales. It is also notable that the skirt on this dress was cut to be narrow so the wind doesn t catch it during outside service. Morales notes these other trends: gray continues to be a uniform favorite, so Liquid is offering more designs in various shades of gray. As of October 1, 2018, Liquid will offer 18 garments in gray, including all men s and women s bottoms in light gray and charcoal, and charcoal board shorts, a silver rash guard, and a silver polo. Also new are the Liquid Gold Shorts for men. We patterned them after the shorter shorts we see the guys wearing in Europe and California, Morales says. We thought boating needed to catch up with men s designs. The style will also be available in pants with a skinny leg. What could be trendier than a jumpsuit? Hot off the cutting table and new for the 2018 boat show season is Liquid s Jumpsuit, says Morales. A lot of design know-how has gone into our new fun piece: The waist has a hidden elastic band that can be turned over if the stew is shorter, or left as is if she is not. Once again, they have hidden a hole for the radio earpiece and wire to be run inside the suit. The style, Morales says, all add up to Liquid stews rocking the latest trend. Left: The Jumpsuit. Above: Women s Secret Service Dress from Liquid Yacht Wear Smallwood s PHOTOGRAPHY: (TOP) COURTESY OF LIQUID YACHT WEAR; (BOTTOM) COURTESY OF SMALLWOOD S Smallwood s is introducing two new collections the Elements Collection, which includes board shorts for men and women in navy and black (pictured far left) with SPF 50, and the Breeze Collection, men s and women s shorts and pants in soft peached twill with a nonrestrictive fit, mechanical stretch, and resistance to fading and wrinkling. The line will be available in charcoal, khaki, and navy, Helen Smallwood says. Smallwood s also has a new dress, skort, and polos debuting at the 2018 Monaco show. Customization in an industry like yachting will always be hot. Smallwood s has several options, like the laser etching on the pullovers [pictured left] is a nice alternative to traditional monogramming or screen printing. Color is also growing more popular. Grays light and dark are still the most popular for bottoms, but we are seeing growing interest in color and stripes, says Smallwood. One thing she notes is that while the custom business grows, the most successful programs build on stock items and inject customization on select pieces to create a unique look. Smallwood notes that many larger programs are moving away from full customization to avoid issues that come with fillins and re-orders. Smallwood s is expanding on both sides of Popular trends that Smallwood has noticed the Atlantic, adding more space in Antibes include easy care, quick dry, UV-protection, and and in Fort Lauderdale. There s a new stretch fabrics. We are currently experimenting with warehouse in Lauderdale to house the custom-printed fabric in small quantities (50 yards), monogramming, processing, shipping, which can be used for full garments or details like and inventory. The showroom on plackets, pockets, and lining, she says. With smaller 17th Street remains. quantities (and enough time), Smallwood s can now offer custom options that incorporate logos and offer a designer brand feel to any uniform program. October

8 World of Yachting We are always working on new designs and have done so many custom projects during the past four years that it makes it hard to pinpoint a trend in that each custom job has been unique, says World of Yachting owner Kristen DiMartino. We are always looking for the best fabrics with technical features such as UV, breathability, bacteria control, quick dry, etc. There is always new development even in recycled goods and planet-friendly fabrics like bamboo. DiMartino has enjoyed her time in the industry, especially on the uniform side. How the industry has evolved and with younger crew coming in, they bring a different perspective and wants, so we have fun putting some new spins on the classics, while keeping them classy! World of Yachting is celebrating 14 years of business on 17th Street in Fort Lauderdale. Owner Kristen DiMartino was a yacht stewardess for eight years. Zeidel & Co. The crew life of work (and fun) in the sun sounds good, but the sun s effects are not always so funny. Zeidel & Co have recently been featuring the BloqUV Sun Protective Apparel (BloqUV skort and shirt pictured), which blocks 98 percent of the sun s harmful UV rays with a minimum of UPF 50. Also big this year, says owner Montana Pritchard, are Sun Shirts and SPF products. But Pritchard also sees another interesting trend, one that speaks to what seems to be a growing need to be comfortable. Inspired by the comfort and flexibility of yoga-wear, Athleisure is the fastest growing trend in apparel, says Pritchard. New fibers enable greater odor reduction, sweat-wicking, stretchability to conform to the body s shape, breathability to allow air in and out, and protection from dirt. It sounds like the perfect setup for crew. Pritchard also shares that they are seeing more vessels asking for premium customized guest gifts, from custom beach totes showcasing nautical charts of the upcoming trip to fullcolor coin medallions featuring the yacht profile and dates of the charter. In addition, Special location printing and full color printing are the new thing, Pritchard says. He also maintains that many of his clients are asking for full-color yacht logos but are changing things up not the typical profile on the back of the shirt, rather on the side of the shirts wrapping around the waist, for something different. So yes, it s possible to be both chic and comfortable. Zeidel & Co is launching the SEE Essentials Program, a new option that allows companies to offer an additional service without requiring them to stock uniforms, personalized goods, and flags. Consider it a wholesale option to purchase SEE Apparel from Zeidel & Co., says Montana Pritchard. 72 October PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF ZEIDEL & CO.