Revised Edition: 2016 ISBN All rights reserved.

Transcription

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2 Revised Edition: 2016 ISBN All rights reserved. Published by: White Word Publications 48 West 48 Street, Suite 1116, New York, NY 10036, United States

3 Table of Contents Chapter 1 - Shoemaking Chapter 2 - How to Make a Boot Chapter 3 - How to Build Shoe Insoles Chapter 4 - Shoe Chapter 5 - Footwear Chapter 6 - High-heeled Footwear Chapter 7 - Tips for Right Footwear Selection Chapter 8 - Sandal Chapter 9 - Boot

4 Chapter- 1 Shoemaking Woodcut of shoemakers from 1568

5 A cobbler in Seattle, Washington A shoemaker in the Roscheider Hof, Open Air Museum

6 Shoemaking is a traditional handicraft profession, which has now been largely superseded by industrial manufacture of footwear. Shoemakers or cordwainers (cobblers being, historically, those that repair shoes) may produce a range of footwear items, including shoes, boots, sandals, clogs and moccasins. Such items are generally made of leather, wood, rubber, plastic, jute or other plant material, and often consist of multiple parts for better durability of the sole, stitched to a leather upper. Most shoemakers use a last made traditionally of iron or wood, but now often of plastic on which to form the shoe. Some lasts are straight, while curved lasts come in pairs: one for left shoes, the other for right shoes. Traditional shoemaker at the Ethnographic Museum of Western Liguria, Cervo, Italy The shoemaking profession makes a number of appearances in popular culture, such as in stories about shoemaker's elves, and the proverb "The shoemaker's children are often shoeless". The patron saint of shoemakers is Saint Crispin. Traditional shoemakers used to use more than 15 different techniques of making shoes. Some of the: pegged construction, English welted (only for machine-made versions they

7 use "good year welted"), goyser welted, Norwegian, stitchdown, turnout, German sewn, moccasin, bolognese stitched, blake-stitched, etc. Some types of ancient and traditionally-made shoes include: Furs wrapped around feet, and sandals wrapped over them: used by Romans fighting in northern Europe. Clogs: wooden shoes, often filled with straw to warm the feet. Moccasins: simple shoes, often without the durability of joined shoes (although different types of leather have different wear characteristics). The Society for Creative Anachronism offers some advice about making period shoes. Current crafters may use used car tire tread as a cheap alternative to creating soles. Pope Urban IV, born Jacques Pantaléon, was the son of a cobbler of Troyes, France. Chefs and cooks sometimes use the term "shoemaker" as an insult, implying that the chef in question has made his food as tough as shoe leather. Rabbi Yochanan Hasandlar, a famous sage of the Third Century AD, might have earned his living as a sandal maker, though the nickname might also indicate that he was a native of Alexandria.

8 Cordwainer Cordwainer statue on Watling street, in the Cordwainer ward of the City of London A cordwainer (or cordovan) is somebody who makes shoes and other articles from fine soft leather. The word is derived from "cordwain", or "cordovan", the leather produced in Córdoba, Spain. The term cordwainer was used as early as 1100 in England. Historically, there was a distinction between a cordwainer, who made luxury shoes and boots out of the finest leathers, and a cobbler, who repaired them. This distinction gradually weakened, particularly during the twentieth century, when there was a predominance of shoe retailers who neither made nor repaired shoes.

9 In London, the occupation of cordwainers was historically controlled by the guild of the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers. There is a Cordwainer ward of the City of London, which is historically where most cordwainers lived and worked. Until 2000, there had been a Cordwainer's Technical College in London. For over a hundred years the college has been recognised as one of the world's leading colleges for training cobblers and leather workers. The college produced some of the worlds' leading fashion designers, such as Jimmy Choo. Cordwainer's College was absorbed into the London College of Fashion in The shoe design and accessories departments are still titled "Cordwainer's at London College of Fashion". The American author Paul Myron Anthony Linebarger used the pseudonym "Cordwainer Smith".

10 Chapter- 2 How to Make a Boot This is a brief tutorial on how to make a simple, moccasin-style boot out of suede with rawhide laces. This footwear is appropriate for costumes representing the Middle Ages, and useful for walking silently. The nice thing about these boots is that they're not rigidly sized. If your feet swell, or if someone with a half-size larger or smaller wants to borrow them, they're easily loosened/tightened to fit. You can buy professionally-made boots online, but if you're in a hurry or just want that added level of authenticity, give this easy pattern a try.

11 Steps 1. Measurements you'll need to take *toe to heel *widest width (ball of foot) *narrowest width (heel of foot) *toe to widest point *toe to top of boot (following the contour of your leg) *heel to top of boot *circumference of your calf at widest point (varies with height of boot) Take measurements. First, you'll need to take measurements of your naked or socked foot (if you plan to wear socks with the boots on). Measure in the unit that's most familiar to you; inches are used in these examples and explanations. You need to decide at this point how tall the boot will be. 2. Make a template using your measurements. Trace it onto an old t-shirt or inexpensive fabric. o Blank boot example for you to fill in Use this blank template to get an idea for the shape.

12 o A Boot example with measurements Fill in the measurements and adjust the template as shown in this example for boots set to be about 9.5" tall. 3. Try it on and make adjustments. Cut out the template and try it on, holding it together using safety pins, to see how the fit will be. Trim it for a more contoured fit if necessary. 4. Cut the final material. Lay the adjusted template over the final material (e.g. suede) and cut carefully. 5. Make the lace holes. Given that lace holes are an inch apart, multiply the number of lace holes on ONE SIDE of your boot times 10 to determine how much lacing you will need. If you make 10 lace holes each an inch apart, you need 90 to 100 inches of lacing to tie your boots. And that's just for the front of one boot! The back should take a bit less, since there's no slope, so let's say 8 holes x 9 = 72". For two boots, you'll need about 344" (~29 ft.) of rawhide laces to make these work! Fortunately, rawhide is cheap and comes commonly in 10 meter (~33 ft) spools. o You can cut down on the rawhide consumption by using a straight-up lace and knot (instead of the criss-cross) for the back of the boot, or making your lace holes farther apart. o o You may also need more or less depending on how much gap you leave between the side flaps, the height of the boot, etc. Beware of compromising here though -- laces set further apart mean less stability, looser seams, and gaps in material (through which bugs/dirt may enter) etc.

13 You can add a flare to the top just by leaving room for the fabric/leather/suede to fold down and not lacing the boots as high. Use one of your own insoles / shoes to set in the middle of the pattern as a demonstration of how well you measured BEFORE you cut anything. Buy a pair of shoe inserts/insoles to serve as padding inside your boot. Glue into place if desired. Tips

14 Warnings BE CAREFUL with the sharp tools you'll be using. This should go without saying, but you'll be using sharp instruments to poke holes in thick, sturdy material. Take care you don't poke holes in your hands as well. When poking holes for laces, be sure you poke through same side of the material on both sides -- preferably from what will be the outside of the boot to the inside. Things You'll Need Sufficient suede (varies with boot size) Sufficient rawhide for laces (also varies with size) A good pair of scissors Chalk or other non-permanent marking utensil An awl or other pointed tool for making lace holes Flexible measuring tape Hard rubber / thick leather or other sole material (Epoxy or resin may also be used, but is less authentic.) Glue / rivets for attaching sole

15 Chapter- 3 How to Build Shoe Insoles Building your own shoe insoles can save money and help recycle items you no longer need, such as cardboard or an old exercise mat. As an added bonus, if you want to vary the insole size to accommodate your own footwear needs, making your own enables you to do so. Also, swapping insoles at regular intervals may result in less moisture trapped in the shoes, possibly extending the shoes' lifespan! Here we provides several ways to make shoe insoles, letting you choose the one that suits your needs best.

16 Cardboard Method Steps 1. Remove the old insole from your shoe. Shake off any dirt or surface grime. 2. Place the old insole over cardboard. The cardboard needs to be thick and preferably have a "cushioned" feel to it - old cartons are good. 3. Trace the insole shape with a pencil. Once you have the shape right, you can go over the outline with a marker to make it easier to see. 4. Cut out the insole design. Use scissors that are sharp enough to cut cardboard easily. 5. Repeat. Make two insoles for each shoe. This will allow you to air one insole and insert the other, extending the life of both insoles. Yoga Mat Method 1.

17 Trace a flip flop or shoe that is your size onto the smooth side of a yoga or exercise mat. Use a mat that you no longer want; if you can't find one, look in a charity store for throwaway mats. Keep the rest of the mat in your craft cupboard for other uses. 2. Cut out the design that you have traced. 3. Flip over the cut insole. Trace it again on the smooth side to create the insole for the opposite foot. Cut out this insole. Now you have both a right and a left foot insole. 4.

18 Trace and cut out four more for both the right and left. This means that you'll have a total of five cut-outs for each foot Stack the cut-outs for each foot. Place the textured side up. Glue four of the layers together, using a hot glue gun. Glue a little, then press. Then glue a little more, and press. If you try to glue the whole layer at once, it'll start to dry before you push the layers together. 7. Leave to dry completely. Once dry, you have new insoles!

19 Things You'll Need Method 1: Cardboard from a carton or similar heavyweight, durable cardboard with some give Pencil Marker Scissors, sharp, or craft knife Cutting surface, such as a cutting mat Method 2: Old yoga or exercise mat Marker Scissors, sharp Hot glue gun

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21 Chapter- 4 Shoe Today the world's most widely available shoe: hundreds of used athletic shoes for sale in a public square, Fez, Morocco, 2007 A shoe is an item of footwear intended to protect and comfort the human foot while doing various activities. Shoes are also used as an item of decoration. The design of shoes has varied enormously through time and from culture to culture, with appearance originally being tied to function. Additionally fashion has often dictated many design elements, such as whether shoes have very high heels or flat ones. Contemporary footwear varies widely in style, complexity and cost. Basic sandals may consist of only a thin sole and simple strap. High fashion shoes may be made of very expensive materials

22 in complex construction and sell for thousands of dollars a pair. Other shoes are for very specific purposes, such as boots specially designed for mountaineering or skiing. Shoes have traditionally been made from leather, wood or canvas, but are increasingly made from rubber, plastics, and other petrochemical-derived materials. Until recent years, shoes were not worn by most of the world's population largely because they could not afford them. Only with the advent of mass production, making shoes available very cheaply, has shoe-wearing become predominant. The foot contains more bones than any other single part of the body. Though it has evolved over hundreds of thousands of years in relation to vastly varied terrain and climate conditions, the foot is still vulnerable to environmental hazards such as sharp rocks and hot ground, which shoes can protect against. History The oldest known leather shoe, about 5500 years old, Armenia

23 Ancient Greek pair of terracotta boots. Early geometric period cremation burial of a woman, 900 BCE, Ancient Agora Museum, Athens The earliest known shoes are sandals dating from about 8000 to 7000 BCE and found in Oregon, USA in The world's oldest leather shoe, made from a single piece of cowhide laced with a leather cord along seams at the front and back, was found in a cave in Armenia in 2008 and is believed to date to 3,500 BCE. Ötzi the Iceman's shoes, dating to 3,300 BCE, featured brown bearskin bases, deerskin side panels, and a bark-string net, which pulled tight around the foot. However, tanned leather, the material most commonly used for making shoes, does not normally last for thousands of years, so shoes were probably in use long before this. Physical anthropologist Erik Trinkaus believes he has found evidence that the use of shoes began in the period between about 40,000 and 26,000 years ago, based on the fact that the thickness of the bones of the toes (other than the big toe) decreased during this period, on the premise that wearing shoes resulted in less bone growth, resulting in shorter, thinner toes. The earliest designs were simple affairs, often mere "foot bags" of leather to protect the feet from rocks, debris, and cold. Since shoes use more leather than sandals, their use was more common in cold climates. By the Middle Ages, turn-shoes had been developed with toggled flaps or drawstrings to tighten the leather around the foot for a better fit. As Europe gained in wealth and power, fancy shoes became status symbols. Toes became long and pointed, often to ridiculous

24 proportions. Artisans created unique footwear for rich patrons, and new styles developed. Eventually the modern shoe, with a sewn-on sole, was devised. Since the 17th century, most leather shoes have used a sewn-on sole. This remains the standard for finer-quality dress shoes today. Until around 1800, shoes were made without differentiation for the left or right foot. Such shoes are now referred to as "straights". Only gradually did the modern foot-specific shoe become standard. Since the mid-20th Century, advances in rubber, plastics, synthetic cloth, and industrial adhesives have allowed manufacturers to create shoes that stray considerably from traditional crafting techniques. Leather, which had been the primary material in earlier styles, has remained standard in expensive dress shoes, but athletic shoes often have little or no real leather. Soles, which were once laboriously hand-stitched on, are now more often machine stitched or simply glued on. Parts Sole The bottom of a shoe is called the sole. Gluing a new outsole to an athletic shoe

25 Insole The insole is the interior bottom of a shoe, which sits directly beneath the foot under the footbed (also known as sock liner). The purpose of insole is to attach to the lasting margin of the upper, which is wrapped around the last during the closing of the shoe during the lasting operation. Insoles are usually made of cellulosic paper board or synthetic non woven insole board. Many shoes have removable and replaceable footbeds. Extra cushioning is often added for comfort (to control the shape, moisture, or smell of the shoe) or health reasons (to help deal with defects in the natural shape of the foot or positioning of the foot during standing or walking). Basically, this is a main part of shoes which can absorb foot sweat. Footbeds should typically use foam cushioning sheets like latex and eva, which provide good wearing comfort of the shoe. Outsole absorption, usually beneath the heel of the foot, where one puts the most pressure down. The outsole is the layer in direct contact with the ground. Dress shoes often have leather or resin rubber outsoles; casual or work-oriented shoes have outsoles made of natural rubber or a synthetic material like Polyurethane. The outsole may comprise a single piece, or may be an assembly of separate pieces of different materials. Often the heel of the sole has a rubber plate for durability and traction, while the front is leather for style. Specialized shoes will often have modifications on this design: athletic or so called cleated shoes like soccer, rugby, baseball and golf shoes have spikes embedded in the outsole to grip the ground. Midsole The layer in between the outsole and the insole that is typically there for shock absorption. Some types of shoes, like running shoes, have another material for shock Different companies use different materials for the midsoles of their shoes. Some shoes may not have a midsole at all. Heel The bottom rear part of a shoe is the heel. Its function is to support the heel of the foot. They are often made of the same material as the sole of the shoe. This part can be high for fashion or to make the person look taller, or flat for a more practical and comfortable use.

26 Vamp/upper Women's high heel pump Every shoe has an upper part that helps hold the shoe onto the foot. In the simplest cases, such as sandals or flip-flops, this may be nothing more than a few straps for holding the sole in place. Closed footwear, such as boots, trainers and most men's shoes, will have a more complex upper. This part is often decorated or is made in a certain style to look attractive. Lateral/medial The outside part of the shoe is referred to as the lateral and the inside facing part of the shoe is the medial. This can be in reference to either the outsole or the vamp. Accessories Shoehorn: can be used to insert a foot into a shoe by keeping the shoe open and providing a smooth surface for the foot to slide upon. Shoe tree: placed inside the shoe when user is not wearing it, to help maintain the shoe's shape. Heel grip: used to prevent the shoe from slipping on the heel if the fit is not perfect

27 Foam tap: a small foam pad placed under the ball of the foot to push the foot up and back if the shoe is too loose. Shoe polishing equipment: o Shoe polish: a waxy material spread on shoes to improve appearance, glossiness, and provide protection. o Shoe brush and polishing cloth: used to apply polish to shoes. Overshoes or galoshes: a rubber covering placed over shoes for rain and snow protection. (Orthopedic) shoe insert: insert of various materials for cushioning, improved fit, or reduced abrasion. These include padding and inner linings. Inserts may also be used to correct foot problems. Shoe bag: a bag that protects shoes against damage when they are not being worn. Shoe stretcher: a tool for making a shoe longer or wider or for reducing discomfort in areas of a shoe. Snow shoe: a wooden or leather piece which increases the area of ground covered by the shoe. Shoelaces: a system used to secure shoes. Dress and casual Types Dress shoes are characterized by smooth and supple leather uppers, leather soles, and narrow sleek figure. Casual shoes are characterized by sturdy leather uppers, non-leather outsoles, and wide profile. Some designs of dress shoes can be worn by either gender. The majority of dress shoes have an upper covering, commonly made of leather, enclosing most of the lower foot, but not covering the ankles. This upper part of the shoe is often made without apertures or openings, but may also be made with openings or even itself consist of a series of straps, e.g. an open toe featured in women's shoes. Shoes with uppers made high to cover the ankles are also available; a shoe with the upper rising above the ankle is usually considered a boot but certain styles may be referred to as high-topped shoes or high-tops. Usually, a high-topped shoe is secured by laces or zippers, although some styles have elastic inserts to ease slipping the shoe on.

28 Men's This male dress shoe, known as a blucher, is distinguished by its open lacing Men's shoes can be categorized by how they are closed: Oxfords (also referred as "Balmorals"): the vamp has a V-shaped slit to which the laces are attached; also known as "closed lacing". The word "Oxford" is sometimes used by American clothing companies to market shoes that are not Balmorals, such as Blüchers. Blüchers (American), Derbys (British): the laces are tied to two pieces of leather independently attached to the vamp; also known as "open lacing". Monk-straps: a buckle and strap instead of lacing Slip-ons: There are no lacings or fastenings. The popular loafers are part of this category, as well as less popular styles, such as elastic-sided shoes. Men's shoes can also be decorated in various ways: Plain-toes: have a sleek appearance and no extra decorations on the vamp. Cap-toes: has an extra layer of leather that "caps" the toe. This is possibly the most popular decoration. Brogues (American: wing-tips): The toe of the shoe is covered with a perforated panel, the wing-tip, which extends down either side of the shoe. Brogues can be found in both balmoral and blucher styles.

29 Women's Women's shoes on display in a shop window, 2005 There is a large variety of shoes available for women, in addition to most of the men's styles being more accepted as unisex. Some broad categories are: High-heeled footwear is footwear that raises the heels, typically 2 inches (5 cm) or more above the toes, commonly worn by women for formal occasions or social outings. Variants include kitten heels (typically 1½-2 inches high) and stilletto heels (with a very narrow heel post) and wedge heels (with a wedge-shaped sole rather than a heel post).

30 Sneaker boot or sneaker pump: a shoe that looks like an athletic shoe, but is equipped with a heel, making it a kind of novelty dress shoe. Mules are shoes or slippers with no fitting around the heel (i.e. they are backless) Slingbacks are shoes which are secured by a strap behind the heel, rather than over the top of the foot. Ballet flats, known in the UK as ballerinas, ballet pumps or skimmers, are shoes with a very low heel and a relatively short vamp, exposing much of the instep. They are popular for warm-weather wear, and may be seen as more comfortable than shoes with a higher heel. Court shoes, known in the US as pumps, are typically high-heeled, slip-on dress shoes. Unisex The flip-flop sandal, worn both by men and women Clog Platform shoe: shoe with very thick soles and heels

31 Moccasin: originated by Native Americans, a soft shoe without a heel and usually made of leather. Sandals: open shoes consisting of a sole and various straps, leaving much of the foot exposed to air. They are thus popular for warm-weather wear, because they let the foot be cooler than a closed-toed shoe would. Espadrilles are casual flat warm-weather shoes of a style which originated in the Pyrenees. They usually have a cotton or canvas upper and a flexible sole of rope or rubber. There are high-heeled versions for women. Saddle shoe: leather shoe with a contrasting saddle-shaped band over the instep, typically white uppers with black "saddle". Slip-on shoe: a dress or casual shoe without laces; often with tassels, buckles, or coin-holders (penny loafers). Boat shoes, also known as "deck shoes": similar to a loafer, but more casual. Laces are usually simple leather with no frills. Typically made of leather and featuring a soft white sole to avoid marring or scratching a boat deck. The first boat shoe was invented in 1935 by Paul Sperry. Boots: Long shoes (covering the ankle) frequently made of leather. Some are designed to be used in times of bad weather, or simply as an alternate style of casual or dress wear. Styles include rubber boots and snow boots, as well as work boots and hiking boots. Slippers: For indoor use, commonly worn with pajamas. Vibram FiveFingers, meant to simulate the "natural" experience of going barefoot, while protecting the foot Sneakers or Canvas shoes Athletic Today the most popular shoe globally: the sports shoe adapted for everyday use

32 Men's and women's athletic shoes and special function shoes often have less difference between the sexes than in dress shoes. In many cases these shoes can be worn by either sex. Emphasis tends to be more on function than style. Running shoes: very similar to above, with additional emphasis on cushioning. Track spikes: lightweight; often with plastic or metal cleats Cleat (shoe): a type of shoe featuring molded or removable studs. Usually worn while playing sports such as rugby, football, American football, or baseball. Golf shoes: with "spikes" for better grip in grass and wet ground. Originally the spikes or "cleats" were made of metal but replaceable "soft spikes" made of synthetic plastic-like materials with prongs distributed radially around the edge of each spike are much more common today (and are required on many golf courses since they cause less damage to the greens). Bowling shoes: intermediate style between ordinary dress shoes and athletic shoes. They have harder rubber soles/heels so as not to damage bowling alley floors. They are often rented or loaned at bowling alleys. Climbing shoes: a shoe designed for rock climbing. They typically have a close fit, little if any padding, and a smooth sticky rubber sole with an extended rubber rand. Hiking shoes or boots: usually have a high somewhat stiff upper with many lace eyelets, to provide ankle support on uneven terrain, with extra large traction on the sole. Walking shoes: have a more flexible sole than the running shoe, lighter in weight than the hiking boot, may have air holes, may not be water proof. Skating shoes: typically called skates. They have various attachments for skating on the bottom of the shoe portion. o Ice skates o Roller skates o Inline skates Ski boot: a large, thick plastic boot specially designed for attachment to the ski. Skate shoes: specifically designed for use in Skateboarding, the shoes are manufactured with flat soles as to allow a skateboarder to have better grip when riding a skateboard. They are very wide and have extra layers of padding to protect the skateboarders feet. Cycling shoes are equipped with a metal or plastic cleat to interface with clipless pedals, as well as a stiff sole to maximize power transfer and support the foot. Snowshoes are special shoes for walking in thick snow. In temperate climates, snowshoes are used for mostly recreational purposes in winter. Wrestling shoes are light, flexible shoes that mimic bare feet while providing additional traction and protection. Orthopedic Orthopedic or "comfort" shoes are made with pedorthic and anatomically-correct comfort qualities, such as padded removable footbeds, wide toe boxes and arch support are made especially for those with problematic feet.

33 Dance Pointe shoes are designed for ballet dancing. These have a toe box that is stiffened with glue and a hardened sole so the dancer can stand on the tips of their toes. They are secured by elastic straps and ribbons that are tied to the dancer's ankles. Ballet shoes are soft, highly pliable shoes made of canvas or leather, with either continuous or two-part sole (also called split-sole). The sole is typically made of leather, with thicker material under the ball and heel of the foot, and thinner and thus more flexible material under the arch so that the foot can be pointed to its utmost. Ballet slippers are usually secured by elastics that cross over the top of the foot. They are most commonly pink, white, black, or pale tan, although they may be made in specialty colours such as red or blue. Ghillies are soft shoes that are used in Irish dance, Scottish country dance, and highland dance. Jazz shoes typically have a two-part, rubberized sole (also called split-sole) to provide both flexibility and traction, and a low (one inch or shorter) heel. They are secured to the foot by laces or elastic inserts. Tango and Flamenco shoes are used for dancing the tango or flamenco. Ballroom shoes fall into two categories: Ballroom and Latin American. Both are characterised by suede soles. Men's ballroom shoes are typically lace-ups with one-inch heels and patent leather uppers. Ladies' ballroom shoes are typically court shoes with two-inch heels, made of fabric that can be colored to match the dancer's dress. In contrast to the low Ballroom heel, which evenly distributes weight across the foot, Latin American shoes have higher heels designed to shift weight onto the toes. Latin shoes are also more flexible than ballroom shoes. Men's Latin shoes typically have 1.5- to 2-inch high, shaped heels, while Ladies' Latin shoes have 2,5-inch to 3-inch heels. Ladies shoes are typically open-toed and strapped. Dance sneakers. Also known as dansneakers, these are a combination of a sneaker and a dance shoe, with a reinforced rubber toe. Character shoes have a one to three inch heel, which is usually made of leather, and often have one or more straps across the instep to secure it to the foot. They may come in soft-soled (suede) or hard-soled varieties. They may be converted to tap shoes by attaching taps. Foot thongs are known by various names depending on the manufacturer, including dance paws, foot undies, and foot paws. They are slip-on, partial foot covers that protect the ball of a dancer's foot from skin abrasions while executing turns. From a distance, flesh colored foot thongs give a dancer the appearance of having bare feet. Tap shoes have metal plates mounted to the bottoms of the toe and heel. The metal plates, which are known as taps, make a loud sound when struck against a hard performance surface. Tap shoes, which are used in tap dancing, may be made from any style of shoe to which taps can be attached.

34 Pointe shoes Ballet shoes Jazz shoes. This style is frequently worn by acro dancers A foot thong, viewed from the bottom Ghillies Ladies' ballroom shoes Mens' ballroom shoes Historical Tap shoes Work Work shoes are designed to stand heavy wear, to protect the wearer, and provide high traction. They are generally made from sturdy leather uppers and non-leather outsoles. Sometimes they are used for uniforms or comfort by nurses, waitresses, police, military personnel, etc. They are commonly used for protection in industrial settings, construction, mining, and other workplaces. Protective features may include steel-tipped toes and soles or ankle guards. Shoes of the past include: Turn-shoes: a method by which the shoe is constructed inside-out, wetted, and turned the finished side of the leather flipped to the outside. Such footwear was common from the Middle-ages until modern shoes was developed in the Tudor era. Because of their construction, turn-shoes cannot simply be re-soled, unlike most modern shoe types. Espadrilles: these sandals, which are still worn today, are found as early as the 14th century. Patten: a European wooden overshoe used to keep a person's feet dry outdoors. First worn in the middle ages, they continued in use even into the early 20th century. Peoples such as the Dutch, Flemings, and some French carved similar, fully enclosed wooden shoes. Poulaine: a shoe with a long-pointed toe, popular in Europe in the 15th century. Moccasins: the historical shoe of many North American Indian tribes.

35 Maintenance Breaking-in: some shoes are made of hard but deformable material. After a person wears them multiple times, the material reforms to fit the wearer's feet. The person is said to have broken in the shoes. Polishing: for protection, water resistance (to some extent) and appearance, especially for leather shoes and boots. Heel replacement: heels periodically wear out. Not all shoes are designed to enable this. Sanitization: the inside of shoes can be sanitized with germicidal shoe trees or other cleansing methods to prevent the growth of microorganisms such as odorcausing bacteria or fungi. Sole replacement: soles can also wear out. Not all shoes can have their soles replaced. Shoelace replacement: shoelaces can sometimes be damaged or destroyed necessitating the replacement of the laces. When unfit for use, shoes can be treated as trash or municipal solid waste and disposed of. The exception can be with most athletic sneakers which can be recycled and turned into other raw materials. Someone who makes or repairs shoes in a shop is called a cobbler. Biodegradability Due to the appearance of new man-made materials, shoes have become increasingly less biodegradable. Currently, mass-produced shoes generally require 1000 years to degrade, and/or may not degrade at all, depending on the types of material employed in the production of the shoe. Recently some shoemakers have picked up on the issue and are beginning to produce shoes made entirely from degradable materials, such as Nike Considered. Etiquette In the Middle East, parts of Africa, Korea and Thailand, it is considered rude to show the soles of the feet to others (even accidentally, such as by crossing the legs). Shoe throwing is a great insult in some areas in the Middle East and in India. In addition, in Thailand, it is an extreme insult for the foot, socks, or shoes to touch someone's head or be placed over it. Sizes Units for shoe sizes vary widely around the world. European sizes are measured in Paris Points, which are worth two-thirds of a centimetre. The UK and American units are approximately one-quarter of an inch, starting at 8¼ inches. Men's and women's shoe sizes often have different scales. Shoes size is often

36 measured using a Brannock Device, which can determine both the width and length of the foot.

37 Chapter- 5 Footwear Footwear consists of garments worn on the feet, for fashion, protection against the environment, and adornment. Poor people in impoverished or third world groups often do not wear footwear. Religious requirements may prohibit footwear (for example, some temples). Materials Socks and other hosiery are usually worn between the feet and other footwear, less often with sandals and flip flops (thongs). Footwear is sometimes associated with fetishism, particularly in some fashions in shoes, including boots. People who practice the profession of shoemaking are shoemakers, cobblers or cordwainers. The oldest confirmed footwear was discovered in Fort Rock Cave in the U.S. state of Oregon; radiocarbon dating of these sandals woven from sagebrush bark indicates an age of least 10,000 years. However footprints of what looks like ancient sandals have been carbon dated to around the time 500,000 BC. Leather Plastic Rubber Textiles Wood Jute Metal Components Adhesives Air cushion Buckle Counterfort Eyelet Heel

38 Hook Insole Laces Reinforcement tape Sole Steel shank Tack Toe puff Tread Welt Types Shoes made from real crocodile skin, in a conservation exhibit at Bristol Zoo, England Boots o o o o o o o o Chukka boots Combat boots Cowboy boots Fashion boots Go-go boots Hiking boots Kinky boots Motorcycle boots

39 o Platform boots o Riding boots o Russian boots o Derby boots o Thigh-length boots o Ugg boots o Valenki o Waders o Wellington boots o Winklepickers Shoes o Athletic shoes (also known as trainers or sneakers) o Brothel creepers o Court shoes (known in the US as pumps) Diabetic shoes o Espadrilles o Galoshes o Kitten heels o Lace-up shoes Derby shoes Oxford shoes Brogues o High-tops o Loafers o Mary Janes o Moccasins o Monks o Mules o Platform shoes o School shoes o Skate shoes o Tap shoes Sandals o "Mandals" o Flip-flops (thongs) o Slide o Chaco Indoor footwear o Slippers o Socks Footwraps Specific footwear o

40 A foot thong, viewed from the underside. o Ballet shoes o High-heeled footwear o Climbing shoes o Clogs o Foot thong o Football boots o Sabaton o Safety footwear o Ski boots o Snowshoes o Surgical shoe o Pointe shoes o Swimfins (flippers) Traditional footwear o Abarka o Geta o Pampooties

41 Socks o o Trainer/Sneaker/Ankle socks Diabetic sock

42 Chapter- 6 High-heeled Footwear A pair of pumps / court shoes with 12 cm (4¾") stiletto heels High-heeled footwear (often abbreviated as high heels or simply heels) is footwear that raises the heel of the wearer's foot significantly higher than the toes. When both the heel and the toes are raised equal amounts, as in a platform shoe, it is technically not considered to be a high heel; however, there are also high-heeled platform shoes. High heels tend to give the aesthetic illusion of longer, more slender and more toned legs. High heels come in a wide variety of styles, and the heels are found in many different shapes, including stiletto, pump (court shoe), block, tapered, blade, and wedge. According to high-fashion shoe websites like Jimmy Choo and Gucci, a "low heel" is considered less than 2.5 inches (6 centimeters), while heels between 2.5 and 3.5 inches (8.5 cm) are considered "mid heels", and anything over that is considered a "high heel".

43 Although high heels are now almost exclusively worn by girls and women, there are shoe designs worn by both genders that have elevated heels, including cowboy boots and cuban heels. In previous ages, men also wore high heels. History The history of the high-heeled shoe, or a shoe whose heel is higher than the toe, is a matter of contentious and heated discussion. Shoes in general have typically served as markers of gender, class, race, and ethnicity and both the foot and the shoe have been imbued with powerful phallic and fertility symbols as evidenced in the contemporary practice of tying shoes to a newlywed couple's car. No other shoe, however, has gestured toward leisure, sexuality, and sophistication as much as the high-heeled shoe. Fraught with contradiction, heels paradoxically inhibit movement in order to increase it, at least in appearance. Standing in heels, a woman presents herself already half-walking while at the same time reducing the length of her step, fostering the illusion of speed while suggesting an imminent fall. The higher and more unstable the heel, the more clearly these contradictions are expressed (Kunzle, 2004). Doctors and scholars alike have argued about the physical and cultural effects, both positive and negative, that heels have had not only on women, but on society as a whole. Precursors to the high-heeled shoe Most of the lower class in ancient Egypt walked barefoot, but figures on murals dating from 3500 B.C. depict an early version of shoes worn mostly by the higher classes. These were leather pieces held together with lacing that was often arranged to look like the ankh symbol, which represents life. There are also some depictions of both upper-class males and females wearing heels, probably for ceremonial purposes. Egyptian butchers also wore heels, to help them walk above the blood of dead beasts. In ancient Greece and Rome, platform sandals called kothorni, later known as buskins in the Renaissance, were shoes with high wood or cork soles that were popular particularly among actors who would wear shoes of different heights to indicate varying social status or importance of characters. In ancient Rome, sex trade was legal, and female prostitutes were readily identified by their high heels (Encyclopedia of Ancient Greece by Nigel Guy Wilson, 2005). During the Middle Ages, both men and women would wear pattens, or wooden soles, that were clearly a precursor to the high heel. Pattens would attach to fragile and expensive shoes to keep them out of the mud and other street debris when walking outdoors (Swann, 1984). Elizabeth Semmehack, curator at the Bata Shoe Museum, traces the high heel to horse riders in the Near East who used high heels for functionality, because they helped hold the rider's foot in stirrups. She states that this footwear is depicted on a 9th-century ceramic bowl from Persia.

44 In the 15th century, chopines, a type of platform shoes, were created in Turkey and were popular throughout Europe until the mid-17th century. Chopines could be seven to eight or even 30 inches high, requiring women to use canes or servants to help them walk. Like pattens, chopines were overshoes, but unlike the pattens, chopines were worn almost exclusively by women. They were usually designed with cork or wood stacked as the heel. The Venetians made the chopine into a status symbol revealing wealth and social standing for women, and tourists to Venice often remarked humorously on the outrageously high chopines. One visitor noted that they were "invented by husbands who hoped the cumbersome movement [that] entailed would make illicit liaisons difficult" (McDowell, 1989). Already, we can see issues of domination and submission being associated with shoes much like the lotus shoes of China. Indeed, Chinese concubines and Turkish odalisques wore high shoes, prompting scholars to speculate if heels were used not only for aesthetic reasons but also to prevent women from escaping the harem (Kunzle, 2004). The simple riding heel gave way to a more stylized heel over its first three decades. Shoes were beginning to be made in two pieces during the 16th century, with a flexible upper attached to a heavier, stiffer sole (Swann, 1984). This new two-part shoe led to the heel as an actual part of the shoe rather than just an attachable overshoe. It is sometimes suggested that raised heels were a response to the problem of the rider's foot slipping forward in stirrups while riding. The "rider's heel", approximately 1½ inches (4 cm) high, appeared around The leading edge was canted forward to help grip the stirrup, and the trailing edge was canted forward to prevent the elongated heel from catching on underbrush or rock while backing up, such as in on-foot combat. These features are evident today in riding boots, notably cowboy boots. Beginning with the French, heel heights among men crept up, often becoming higher and thinner, until they were no longer useful while riding but were relegated to "court-pony" wear. By the late 17th century, men's heels were commonly between three and four inches high. In 1533, after men had already started wearing heels again, the diminutive Italian wife of Henry II, King of France, Queen Catherine de' Medici, commissioned a cobbler to fashion her a pair of heels, both for fashion and to suggest greater height. They were an adaptation of chopines and pattens (elevated wooden soles with both heel and toe raised, not unlike modern platform shoes or clogs and sabots), intended to protect the feet of the wearer from dirt and mud; but unlike chopines, the heel was higher than the toe, and the "platform" was made to bend in the middle with the foot. That raised shoes had already been worn as a fashion statement in Italy, at least, is suggested by sumptuary laws in Venice that banned the wearing of chopine-style platform shoes as early as the 1430s. High-heeled shoes quickly caught on with the fashion-conscious men and women of the French court and spread to pockets of nobility in other countries. The term well-heeled

45 became synonymous with opulent wealth. Both men and women continued wearing heels as a matter of noble fashion throughout the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. When the French Revolution drew near, in the late 18th century, the practice of wearing heels fell into decline in France due to its associations with wealth and aristocracy. Throughout most of the 19th century, flat shoes and sandals were usual for both sexes, but the heel resurfaced in fashion during the late 19th century, almost exclusively among women. High heels today Throughout the last 60 years, high heels have fallen in and out of favor several times, most notably in the late 1990s, when lower heels and even flats predominated. Lower heels were preferred during the late 1960s and early 1970s as well, but higher heels returned in the late 1980s and early 1990s. The shape of the fashionable heel has also changed from block (1970s) to tapered (1990s), and stiletto (1950s, 1980s, and post- 2000). Reasons against wearing high heels, which are almost exclusively health and practicality Today, high heels are typically worn by women, with heights varying from a kitten heel of 1½ inches (4 cm) to a stiletto heel (or spike heel) of 4 inches (10 cm) or more. Extremely high-heeled shoes, such as those higher than 5 inches (13 cm), are normally worn only for aesthetic reasons and are not considered practical. Court shoes are conservative styles and often used for work and formal occasions, while more adventurous styles are common for evening wear and dancing. High heels have seen significant controversy in the medical field lately, with many podiatrists seeing patients whose severe foot problems have been caused almost exclusively by high-heel wear. Wedge heel is informally another style of the heel, where the heel is in a wedge form and continues all the way to the toe of the shoe. reasons, include: They can cause foot pain. They increase likelihood of sprains and fractures. They make calves look more rigid and sinewy. They can create foot deformities, including hammertoes and bunions. They can cause an unsteady gait. They can shorten the wearer's stride. They can render the wearer unable to run. Altered forces at the knee caused by walking in high heels may predispose to degenerative changes in the knee joint. See Foot and tendon problems below for many of the medical reasons. Women who wear high heels frequently have a higher incidence of degenerative joint disease of the knees. This is because they cause a decrease in the normal rotation of the foot, which puts more rotation stress on the knee. Reasons for wearing high heels, which are almost exclusively aesthetic, include:

46 They change the angle of the foot with respect to the lower leg, which accentuates the appearance of calves. They change the wearer's posture, requiring a more upright carriage and altering the gait in what is considered a seductive fashion. They make the wearer appear taller. They make the legs appear longer. They make the foot appear smaller. They make the toes appear shorter. They make the arches of the feet higher and better defined. They make the lower leg muscles more defined. They make the gluteus maximus more defined. They may improve the tone of a woman's pelvic floor. Types of high heels Types of heels found on high-heeled footwear include: cone: a round heel that is broad where it meets the sole of the shoe and noticeably narrower at the point of contact with the ground kitten: a short, slim heel with maximum height under 2 inches and diameter of no more than 0.4 inch at the point of contact with the ground prism: three flat sides that form a triangle at the point of contact with the ground spool: broad where it meets the sole and at the point of contact with the ground; noticeably narrower at the midpoint between the two stiletto: a tall, slim heel with minimum height of 2 inches and diameter of no more than 0.4 inch at the point of contact with the ground wedge: occupies the entire space under the arch and heel portions of the foot puppy: thick square block heel approximately 2 inches in diameter and height

47 Men and heels The Vision of Saint Eustace, Pisanello, Rider wearing high heels. Elizabeth Semmelhack, curator for the Bata Shoe Museum, traces the high heel to male horse-riding warriors in the East who used high heels for functionality, because they help hold the rider's foot in stirrups. She states that the earliest high heel she has seen is depicted on a 9th-century CE ceramic bowl from Persia. Since the late 18th century, men's shoes have had primarily low heels. A notable exception is cowboy boots, which continue to sport a taller riding heel. The two-inch Cuban heel features in many styles of men's boot but was popularised by Beatle boots, famously worn by the English rock group The Beatles, which saw the reintroduction of heels for men. Winklepicker boots also usually feature a Cuban heel. There was also a brief resurgence in higher-heeled shoes for men in the 1970s(in Saturday Night Fever, John Travolta's character wears a Cuban heel in the opening sequence). The singer Prince is known to wear high heels, as well as Elton John. Bands such as Mötley Crüe and Sigue Sigue Sputnik predominantly wore high heels during the 1980s. Current heel wearers are Justin Tranter, lead singer of Semi Precious Weapons, and Bill Kaulitz, the lead singer of Tokio Hotel.

48 Accessories The stiletto of certain kinds of high heels can damage some types of floors. Such damage can be prevented by heel protectors, also called covers, guards, or taps, which fit over the stiletto tips to keep them from direct, marring contact with delicate surfaces, such as linoleum (rotogravure) or urethane-varnished wooden floors. Heel protectors are widely used in ballroom dancing, as such dances are often held on wooden flooring. The bottom of most heels usually has a plastic or metal heel tip that wears away with use and can be easily replaced. Dress heels (high-heeled shoes with elaborate decoration) are worn for formal occasions. Many philanthropies have been created around the central idea of men fighting gender violence by wearing high-heeled shoes and "walking a mile in her shoes". This theme has shown up in display windows in malls and across several cities in the United States. Foot and tendon problems High-heeled shoes slant the foot forward and down while bending the toes up. The more that the feet are forced into this position, the more it may cause the Achilles tendon to shorten. This may cause problems when the wearer chooses lower heels or flat-soled shoes. When the foot slants forward, a much greater weight is transferred to the ball of the foot and the toes, increasing the likelihood of damage to the underlying soft tissue that supports the foot. In many shoes, style dictates function, either compressing the toes or forcing them together, possibly resulting in blisters, corns, hammer toes, bunions (hallux valgus), Morton's neuroma and many other medical conditions, most of which are permanent and require surgery to alleviate the pain. High heels because they tip the foot forward put pressure on the lower back through making the rump push outwards and crushing the lower back vertebrae and contracting the muscles of the lower back. If it is not possible to avoid high heels altogether, it is suggested that the wearer spend at least a third of the time on their feet in contour-supporting "flat" shoes (such as exercise sandals), or well-cushioned "sneaker-type" shoes, saving high heels for special occasions. One of the most critical problems of high-heeled-shoe design involves a properly constructed toe-box. Improper construction here can cause the most damage to one's foot. Toe-boxes that are too narrow force the toes to be "crammed" too close together. Ensuring that room exists for the toes to assume a normal separation so that high-heel wear remains an option rather than a debilitating practice is an important issue in improving the wearability of women's high-heeled fashion shoes. Wide heels do not necessarily offer more stability, and any raised heel with too much width, such as found in "blade-" or "block-heeled" shoes, induces unhealthy side-to-side torque to the ankles with every step, stressing them unnecessarily, while creating additional impact on the balls of the feet. Thus, the best design for a high heel is one with a narrower width, where the heel is closer to the front, more solidly under the ankle, where the toe box provides room enough for the toes, and where forward movement of the foot in the shoe is kept in check by material snug across the instep, rather than by the

49 toes being rammed forwards and jamming together in the toe box or crushed into the front of the toe box. Despite the medical issues surrounding high-heel wear, a few podiatrists recommend well-constructed low to moderate heels for some patients. It appears a slight elevation of the heel improves the angle of contact between the metatarsals and the horizontal plane, thereby more closely approximating the proper angle and resulting in proper weight distribution of a medium-to-high-arched foot. Other foot specialists, however, argue that any heel causes unnecessary stresses on the various bones and joints of the foot. Potential health benefits A recent study suggested that wearing high heels may improve the tone of a woman's pelvic floor. Feminist attitudes towards high heels The high heel has been a central battleground of sexual politics ever since the emergence of the women's liberation movement of the 1970s. Many second-wave feminists rejected what they regarded as constricting standards of female beauty, created for the subordination and objectifying of women and self-perpetuated by reproductive competition and women's own aesthetics. Some feminists argue that the high heels were designed to make women helpless and vulnerable, perpetuating the gender role of males as protectors of the slowly staggering women. High heels have also been blamed for reducing the woman to a sex object by sacrificing practical comfort in favor of an alleged increase in sex appeal. Some second-wave feminists, such as Judy Grahn, have tied high heels to menstruation rituals that various cultures have used.

50 Chapter- 7 Tips for Right Footwear Selection How to Choose Comfortable Shoes Most footwear on the market today is neither comfortable nor good for the feet. The American Podiatric Medical Association (APMA) recently reported that 50 percent of Americans, aged 18-60, suffer from some kind of foot ailment, and that many of these are related to wearing incorrect shoes. You don't have to suffer pain for fashion. Comfortable shoes manufacturers are now hiring stylists and keeping pace with fashion trends while still offering the features that make a shoe comfortable. Try these tips for picking comfortable shoes, pumps, flats, and sandals.

51 1. When selecting a Career or Dress shoe, look for: o A low (2 inch or less), broad based heel - the higher the heel, the greater the pressure on the front of the foot. Comfortable shoes typically have Steps o o o lower heels. A good, firm heel counter (this helps lock the foot into the shoe and anchors it to the mid-sole, giving extra support); Sole and heel materials that provide cushioning and shock absorption. A broader and deeper toe shape - In the most comfortable shoes the toe box will allow a lot of room, preventing pinching or constriction of the toes. Note that a wedge shoe distributes your weight more evenly and offers support all the way through the foot. 2. Test a shoe for cushioning by pressing a finger into the ball area. It should have a little give or a slightly padded feel. Comfortable shoes typically have a cushioned footbed that supports the natural shape of the feet. 3. Avoid synthetics. Wear only shoes that have natural leather or suede insoles because it is breathable and pliable, it will prevent chafing and blistering while molding to the feet. 4. Avoid slippage and cuts on your heel by finding a shoe with a back that fits snugly and holds your foot securely. 5. Visit a store that knows and cares about fitting and has a wide selection of comfortable shoe brands for you to choose from.

52 Tips Comfortable Men's shoes brands include: Allen Edmonds, Johnston & Murphy, Forget about that old adage of "breaking shoes in" - You want to find comfortable shoes that fit your feet, not make your feet fit the shoes. You should be able to put on a new pair of comfortable shoes, walk around and have them feel good immediately. If they don't, move on to another brand. Comfortable women's shoes brands to look for include: Taryn Rose, Mephisto, Think!, Beautiful, Soft, Dansko, Camper, Ecco, Naot, Stonefly, Born, Joseph Seibel, Keen. Mephisto, Ecco, Rockport, Finn Comfort, Geox, Stonefly, Clarks, Joseph Seibel, Keen. Many of the comfortable shoe brands above are not always readily available at local shoe stores, but can be purchased online. When shopping for comfortable shoes online, check the return policy of the store - many online retailers now offer free return-shipping if your shoes don't suit.

53 How to Choose Comfortable Walking Shoes

54 Walking every day is a non stressful, easy way to stay fit and healthy. Like any activity, having the right equipment is a key to your success. This guide gives you tips for finding the most comfortable walking shoes. 3. Make sure the shoe that fits properly. Be sure your foot has enough room in the Steps 1. A walker's foot hits heel first and then rolls gradually from heel-to-toe. So, you will need a flexible sole and more bend in the toe than a runner. You should be able to twist and bend the toe area. Manufacturers like New Balance and Brooks make specialized shoes for walkers. 2. Look for a shoe that is light weight and breathable. The last thing you want is a heavy walking shoe. toe box. There should be a thumbnails width (or about a half inch) between your toes and the end of the shoe. The shoe should be wide enough in the toe that your toes can move freely. Your heel should not slip, and the shoe should not pinch or bind, especially across the arch or ball of your foot. 4. Try on new shoes at the end of the day or after your walk when your feet may be slightly swollen. Also be sure to wear the same socks you will be wearing during your walks. This can make a huge difference in how the shoe fits. Try on both shoes. Your feet may not be the same size (really!). 5. Walk around for a few minutes on a hard surface. It is worth the effort to find the right shoe for you and it is worth spending a few extra dollars. 6. Wear your shoes in the house for a few days to try them out. Don't venture outdoors until you are sure the shoes are going to work for you. (If the shoes are not going to work out you will want to exchange them before scuffing them up outside.) 7. Keep track of how many miles you have put on your shoes, and replace them every 300 to 600 miles. (If you are wearing very light weight shoes, are overweight, or you are hard on your shoes stay toward the low end on mileage.)

55 To extend the life of your shoes be sure to only wear them only for your walks. Also rotating two pair of shoes will give them time to "bounce back" between walks. 8. Keep these items in mind when purchasing your next walking shoes. Your feet and legs will thank you for it. Tips impact that an overweight walker will need to be comfortable and avoid Comfortable walking shoes can be purchased just as easily online now as in a store. If you are buying shoes online make sure that the online merchant offers free return shipping (many do) so that if you need to exchange, this won't pose a problem. If you are "a person of size" you may benefit more from purchasing shoes that are made for jogging or running. These shoes have support and padding for extra unnecessary pain. Everyone's foot is different, but there are some universal basics.

56 How to Pick the Right Shoes You can t just wear any pairs of shoes... It might not fit right or they might not feel good. You should pick the right pair of shoes with this guide.

57 Steps impressive confidence. 1. Decide the purpose of your shoes. Are they for work? Exercise? A party? Dinner? Date? Dancing? It is most important that shoes worn for work or exercise fit the best, cradle and improve the condition of your feet, never hurt. Shoes to be worn for a party or date should be stylish, flattering, and comfortable at least for several hours. 2. If you need to buy a stylish or trendy shoe, but can't rely on your own taste. Flip through a few fashion magazines, if you see an open-toe, red patent leather pump on more than one model, that means you can wear that shoe with 3. Try shoes on at an expensive shoe store that sells a variety of brands. Even if you cannot afford an exorbitant amount for new shoes, you will learn your proper size and will feel what you are looking for: something that does not pinch your toes, something that does not ride high around your ankle bone, well cushioned, stays on your foot comfortably when you walk, etc. 4. Once you have a favorite brand in mind, you may bargain shop. You can view entire collections of some brands on-line. You can feel somewhat safe now that you've tried on the brand already.

58 Tips America's Funniest Home Videos. Do not look at the size of a shoe such as a clog or flip flop. Put it on your foot and choose by look. If the heel of the shoe extends past your heel, it's too big and looks sloppy. Go for a smaller size. Pregnancy and extra weight will make your feet grow, except for water retention, they will not return to their original size. Do not continue to squeeze your foot into old shoes. Treat yourself to new ones. If you plan to dance, as in you are a bridesmaid at a wedding, make sure your shoe secures to your heel or it will slip off, you will fall and you will wind up on Don't wear heels walking on the Boardwalk in Atlantic City. Your heels will stick between the boards and you will look like a fool hopping back to put it on again. Take a rolling chair, princess. Warnings Every shoe company's shoes might not fit you even though you are a '6' and the shoes are '6'.

59 How to Avoid Wearing out Flip Flops Keep your flip flops looking new. Flip flops (sometimes called slippers, jandals, or thongs) are more flexible than the sandal. Because of their flexibility and material, flip flops need good care to avoid premature wearing out or unexpected broken pieces.

60 Steps Pick up your feet while walking. Try not to slide your feet so that the flip flop rubs against the ground. The more it rubs, the faster the sole will diminish and the greater the chances of slipping. Usually the heel part of the flip flop rubs out the greatest because of where the pressure is when walking.

61 Take care of your flip flops and they'll last longer. Don't bend them unless you're walking. Dry them with a paper towel (or a reusable rag to avoid unnecessary landfill waste) if they're wet. Clean any dirt or sand that gets trapped on the soles; anything that gets trapped there, such as small rocks, will cause "wear and tear" with every step. 3. Keep flip flops out of any dog's sight. When a dog wants to play, he will grab the first thing that looks interesting, and it may be your footwear. Dogs may chew on, scratch, dunk, or hide your flip flop. In the process, it may stretch out the "thong", the "Y" shaped material that divides your toes. 4. Avoid stretching out the flip flop thong. It may be fun to do while you're sitting down, but stretching it too much will increase the chance of having it become too loose (and uncomfortable to walk with) or the bottom peg of the flip flop may loosen and pull out from the sole. 5. Distribute your weight evenly. Most people tend to put most of their weight towards the sole of the flip flop which causes a major wear-in. Try to put just as much on the "balls" of your feet as you do on the sole of your feet. Tips Foam flip flops will look more used and worn out than other materials because the footprint will engrave into it more and the dirt and sweat of the foot will seep into the foam faster. Try soaking your rubber flip flops in hot water with 2 whitening denture tablets for about 30 minutes. Then scrub lightly with a soft, bristled brush and rinse. As soon as they are dry, your flip flops will look refreshed and good as new. If you are worried about your shoes being worn out, choose cheap and plain ones. The cost will depend on the brand and the material the flip flop has. Many rubber ones will go for a few dollars, while the high risers, plastic, and more stylish pairs are more expensive.

62 Always find and wear comfortable footwear. The size of the flip flop should always be a little longer than your foot. This is to avoid the heel of the foot from touching the ground as you walk. Flip flops that are wet and have fabric straps, like some Reef styles can stretch and become loose and uncomfortable to wear. When sitting down, take your toes out of the the thong strap area. Not only is it more comfortable between your two toes, but it also allows the shoe the breathe for a bit. The more the toe area gets wet, the more irritated your toes get.

63 Warnings Don't run in flip flops. They provide no ankle support or foot protection, so you may stub a toe, cut your foot, or sprain an ankle more easily than with other types of footwear. Don't wear flip flops when wet. Try to dry them before wearing again, your feet will thank you the next day. When wet, your foot can slide around, causing your toes to work extra hard to grip the flip flops. Sand will break down flip flops, particularly those that have crevices where sand can hide and eat away at the material. Even flip flops made only of thick plastic (no cotton material or rubber soles), can break down and become useless if exposed to sand too often. Open-water lifeguards in particular have this problem. Don't abuse your favorite flip flops by wearing the same pair to work every day.

64 Chapter- 8 Sandal High-heeled sandals

65 Sandals for men made by Bata Shoes

66 Yoga sandals Sandals are an open type of outdoor footwear, consisting of a sole held to the wearer's foot by straps or thongs passing over the instep and generally, but not always, around the ankle. While the distinction between sandals and other types of footwear can sometimes be blurry (as in the case of huaraches the woven leather footwear seen in Mexico), the common understanding is that a sandal leaves most or all of the foot exposed. People may choose to wear sandals for several reasons, among them economy (sandals tend to require less material than shoes), comfort in warm weather, and as a fashion choice. Usually, people wear sandals in warmer climates or during warmer parts of the year in order to keep their feet cool and dry. The chances of developing athlete's foot is lower than with enclosed shoes, and the wearing of sandals may be part of the treatment regimen for such an infection.

67 History Esparto sandals from the 6th or 5th millennium BC found in Spain The oldest known sandals (indeed, the oldest known footwear) were discovered in Fort Rock Cave in the U.S. state of Oregon; radiocarbon dating of the sagebrush bark from which they were woven indicates an age of at least 10,000 years. The ancient Greeks distinguished between baxeae (sing. baxea), a sandal made of willow leaves, twigs, or fibres worn by comic actors and philosophers; and the cothurnus, a boot sandal that rose above the middle of the leg, worn principally by tragic actors, horsemen, hunters, and by men of rank and authority. The sole of the latter was sometimes made much thicker than usual by the insertion of slices of cork, so as to add to the stature of the wearer. The ancient Egyptians wore sandals made of palm-leaves and papyrus. They are sometimes observable on the feet of Egyptian statues. According to Herodotus, sandals of papyrus were a part of the required and characteristic dress of the Egyptian priests. Construction A sandal may have a sole made from rubber, leather, wood, tatami or rope. It may be held to the foot by a narrow thong that generally passes between the first and second toe, or by a strap or lace, variously called a latchet, sabot strap or sandal, that passes over the arch of the foot or around the ankle. A sandal may or may not have a heel (either low or high) and/or heel strap.

68 Variants Walking in sandals Among the many kinds of sandals are: Barefoot sandals are somewhat of a misnomer, referring to straps or jewelry such as anklets and toe rings that have no sole; barefoot sandals originated in South Asia and are popularly worn at religious festivities and events primarily for decoration rather than protection Caligae, a heavy-soled Roman military shoe or sandal worn by all ranks up to and including centurion Clog, a heavy sandal, having a thick, typically wooden sole Fisherman Sandal is a type of T-bar sandal originally for men and boys. The toes are enclosed by a number of leather bands interwoven with the central length-wise strap. An adjustable cross strap or bar is fastened with a buckle. The heel may be fully enclosed or secured by a single strap joined to the cross strap. The style appears to have originated in France. geta, a classical Japanese form of elevated thong, traditionally of cryptomeria wood; the crosspiece is referred to as a ha, which translates to tooth Grecian sandal, a sole attached to the foot by interlaced straps crossing the toes and instep, and fastening around the ankle

69 Jelly sandals or Jelly shoes were originally a version of the classic fisherman sandal made in PVC plastic. They were invented in 1946 by Frenchman Jean Dauphant in response to a post-war leather shortage. Later designs featured translucent soft plastic in bright colours; hence the name of jelly sandals or jellies. Recently, a whole range of styles have been produced in this material, mainly for women and girls, but the classic unisex design remains popular. Jipsin, a traditional Korean sandal made of straw Patten, a type of oversized clog often with a wooden sole or metal device to elevate the foot and increase the wearer's height or aid in walking in mud Paduka are the ancient (as old as the time of the Ramayana) Indian toe-knob sandals. They are not really worn on a daily basis now except by monks or for ceremonial purposes. Roman sandal, a sandal held to the foot by a vamp composed of a series of equally-spaced buckled straps Saltwater sandals, a flat sandal developed in the 1940s as a way of coping with wartime leather shortages, primarily worn by children Soft Foam Sandals, invented in 1973, made from closed cell soft foam and uses surgical tubing for the straps. Sold primarily along the Texas Gulf Coast in beach side gift shops. T-Bar Sandals, primarily for children, with an enclosed heel and toe. It is fastened by a cross-wise strap or bar secured by a buckle or more recently, by Velcro. A length-wise strap extends from the vamp and joins the cross-strap over the arch of the foot to form a T shape. A common variant has two cross-straps. The toe is often pierced with a pattern of holes or slots. The sole is low-heeled and usually of crepe rubber, stitched-down to the upper. First seen in Europe and America in the early 1900s, by the 1950s they were very common for boys and girls up to their teens, but are now mainly worn by much younger children. zōri, a flat and thonged Japanese sandal, usually made of straw, cloth, leather, or rubber.

70 Chapter- 9 Boot Ancient Greek pair of terracotta boots. Early geometric period cremation burial of a woman, 900 BCE, Ancient Agora Museum, Athens

71 Cowboy boots custom made for President Harry S. Truman A boot is a type of footwear. Most boots mainly cover the foot and the ankle and extend up the leg, sometimes as far as the knee or even the hip. Most boots have a heel that is clearly distinguishable from the rest of the sole, even if the two are made of one piece. Traditionally made of leather or rubber, modern boots are made from a variety of materials. Boots are worn both for their functionality protecting the foot and leg from water, snow, mud or hazards or providing additional ankle support for strenuous activities and for reasons of style and fashion. High-top athletic shoes are generally not considered boots, even though they do cover the ankle, primarily due to the absence of a distinct heel.

72 Cowboy boots were western style and went above the ankle. Types and uses A pair of "classic" black leather Doc Martens Boots designed for walking through the elements may be made of a single closelystitched design (using leather, rubber, canvas, or similar material) to prevent the entry of water, snow, mud or dirt through gaps between the laces and tongue found in other types of shoes. Waterproof gumboots are made in different lengths of uppers. In extreme cases, thigh-boots called waders, worn by anglers, extend to the hip. Such boots may also be insulated for warmth. Most boots sold in retail stores are not actually waterproof.

73 Russian army boots Speciality boots have been made to temporarily protect steelworkers if they get caught in pools of molten metal, to protect workers from a variety of chemical exposure, and insulated, inflatable boots for use in Antarctica. Most work boots are "laceups" made from leather. Formerly they were usually shod with hobnails and heel- and toe-plates, but now usually with a thick rubber sole, and often with steel toecaps. Work boots (like the popular Dr. Martens) were adopted by skinheads and punks as part of their typical dress and have migrated to more mainstream fashion, including women's wear. As a more rugged alternative to dress shoes, dress boots may be worn (though these can be more formal than shoes).

74 A pair of kneehigh boots in white leather with 6 cm (2.36") stiletto heels Boots are normally worn with socks to prevent chafes and blisters, to absorb sweat and to improve the foot's grip inside the boot. Before socks became widely available, footwraps were worn instead. Specialty boots have been designed for many different types of sports, particularly riding, skiing and snowboarding, Ice skating, and sporting in wet conditions. Fashionable boots for women may exhibit all the variations seen in other fashion footwear: tapered or spike heels, platform soles, pointed toes, zipper closures and the like. The popularity of boots as fashion footwear ebbs and flows. They were popular in

75 the 1960s and 1970s, but diminished in popularity towards the end of the 20th century. Today, they are becoming popular, especially designs with a long bootleg. Boots have their own devotees among boot fetishists, shoe fetishists and foot fetishists. Singer Nancy Sinatra was largely responsible for popularizing the fad of women wearing boots in the late 1960s. Boots in idioms A pair of tall riding boots Boots, particularly those worn as protective footwear by workers (work boots) have a reputation for being as hard-wearing as their owners, hence the commonly used simile "tough as old boots". One potential fate of a discarded boot is to be used in the construction of a musical instrument known as the "mendoza". Designer Henry Lawson leaped to fame after being spotted in a newspaper wearing boots. Referring to them as 'Proper Shoes' this lead to him being 'Booted Out' of the cool footwear elite of the late noughties. Tall boots may have a tab, loop or handle at the top known as a bootstrap, allowing one to use fingers or a tool to provide better leverage in getting the boots

76 on. A German legend about a boy lifting himself by his bootstraps into the air, allowing him to fly, has led to the word's metaphorical use in many different contexts, such as "to pull yourself up by your bootstraps." Calfhigh leather boots with stiletto heel (Le Silla) To "die with one's boots on" means to die from violence as opposed to from natural causes (to "die in bed"); hence Boot Hill as a popular name for Wild West cemeteries. Boot camp: a colloquial term for the initial recruit training of a new recruit enlisting in a military organization. Stormtroopers, skinheads, and other agents of authority or political strongarm tactics are typically referred to by their detractors as "jackbooted thugs," a reference to the hobnailed military jackboot of the WWI German Stormtrooper

77 and later Nazi uniform. Authoritarian rule, either by hostile military forces, or by groups of armed intimidators, is imposed by "jackboot tactics." To "give someone the boot" means to kick them out (of a job, a club, etc.), either literally or figuratively. To "put the boot in" is an idiom for inflicting violence on someone. "The boot is on the other foot now" means that a situation has become reversed a previous victor is now losing, for example. Wearing "seven-league boots" references a classic children's fairy tale and indicates that a person or company can cover great distances, figuratively or literally, in a single stride. To "shake in one's boots" means to be very frightened, and is mostly used sarcastically. Types of boots A pair of Gothic boots

78 Boot hooks (left) and a boot jack (right) are sometimes required to put on or take off some types of boots A type of boot can fit into more than one of these categories, and may therefore be mentioned more than once Forms Hip boot Knee-high boots Thigh-length boots Wedge boots Chap boots Moccasins Styles Chelsea boots Desert Boots Dress boots Cowboy boots Fashion boots