WWDSTYLE. Sense and (orthopedic) Sensibility

Transcription

1 WWDSTYLE JANUARY 19, 2011 Tabloid Tian Enquiring minds wan o know: Wih Chaper 11 behind him, wha s nex for American Media s David Pecker? Sense and (orhopedic) Sensibiliy The reurn of sensible shoes BY BRIDGET FOLEY SEE PAGE 6

2 2 WWDSTYLE WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 19, 2011 milan men s Giorgio Armani Versace men s collecions MILAN fall 2011 Modern Milano In a season of shor versus sharp, several designers played wih volume, color and exure for a fresh ake on masculiniy. GIORGIO ARMANI: Giorgio Armani donned his gray-ined glasses for a collecion ha offered myriad variaions of he neural color and los of exured weaves and glossy or mae finishes. The coas, long and shor, formal and casual, were sandous, including a sweeping wool greacoa ha opened he show, long shearling aviaor-inspired ones and ohers wih hoods and oggles. Armani slicked a coa of silvery gloss ono puffer jackes, fashioned bomber jackes from crocodile and ook he peacoa in a new direcion, crafing i in lighweigh wool, wih pach pockes and a Nehru collar. In a season of genle ailoring, Armani was in his elemen, urning ou sof silhouees, some body conscious, ohers looser and more draped. Velve found is way ono waiscoas ha were layered underneah gray flannel jackes and ono rousers and racksui booms. The velve booms were paired wih nubby, exured or plaid jackes in shades of pewer, gunmeal and ash. Armani s sof-focus silhouees also came from he jersey shirs or knied waiscoas ha were layered under velve jackes and from he roomy, plea-fron rousers and shorer, boxy jackes ha have been all he rage on he runways here. There were even some punches of color in he form of angerine or fuchsia fly-fron shirs and a rio of choice here for fans of Armani s sof, bu sure, ouch. VERSACE: The house has been having a love affair wih black leaher for he pas few seasons, and ha flame is sill burning brighly on Via Gesù. I was a he hear of his unapologeically hard-edged collecion and came in he form of jackes and coas

3 WWDSTYLE Wednesday, january 19, Alexander McQueen Z Zegna D&G For more Men s COVeRAGe, see WWD.com/ MENswEAR-NEws. made from woven or embroidered leaher and rousers wih a nubby exure or crinkled effec. Looks were ofen layered, wih sleeveless leaher vess and bels ha wrapped more han once around he body. The exured heme spilled ino kniwear, oo, wih hree-dimensional cross paerns on urlenecks and bumpy, bumblebee-shaped weaves on camel-colored sweaers. I s an elegan collecion, wih los of layering and no casual looks we re no ino ha his season, said Donaella Versace, who designs he collecion wih her wingman, Maryn Bal. We ve worked a lo wih finishes and exure for a 3-D effec. This finely uned, someimes difficul collecion, will no doub bring ou he ough side of any man. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: Uniforms are nea, sric, clean, reassuring and endlessly sylish. Creaive direcor Sarah Buron gave hem new verve in a sure-handed collecion ha spanned regimenal and miliary dress hrough o Savile Row wih a few longshoremen and raveling salesmen beween hem. Beefy miliary greacoas, some wih dramaic shearling collars, had a spine-sraighening digniy. Colors were mosly sandard issue, wih bold shos of red and amber. Trompe l oeil phoo prins and he odd slashed shoulder on a pin-sriped frock coa added a frisson of McQueen perversiy. Z ZEGNA: Z Zegna explored a new masculiniy in a uiliarian ye elegan collecion ha melded he fuure wih radiion. Oversize ye lighweigh ouerwear pieces in plongé leaher which resembled Neoprene had cashmere linings. Digial echnology was used o apply srips of sheer cashmere and fel ono sweaers, while creaive direcor Alessandro Sarori ook a playful urn, creaing shor overcoas ha resembled he sui jacke. Meanwhile, Sarori seered away from he shrunken ailored look ha has been flooding he runways of lae, sending ou suis ha were boxy wih sof edges. D&G: D&G channeled he universe of Pharrell Williams, he music video genre and even he lae Jean-Michel Basquia, resuling in a youhful, commercial collecion. Using skinny, low-croch colored corduroys as he base, Domenico Dolce and Sefano Gabbana urned ou Happy Days -era high school geups feauring leaher jackes, preppy cardigans and baseball T-shirs mixed wih hoodies, weeds, capacious furs and brash Mickey Mouse- and Coca-Cola-splashed garb. NEIL BARRETT: Neil Barre unveiled an inriguing array of proporions influenced by scuba diving and he marine world. Neoprene long johns were paired wih doublecollared peacoas or dip-dyed knied bomber jackes, and hick-soled boos. Sailor-syle loose flannel pans guided he nauical mood ino calmer commercial waers, as did eye-caching, sailor-syle sripy knis and ice whie parkas. A selecion of women s fall looks mirrored he scuba heme wih srechy minidresses and sharp, bonded separaes. Neil Barre phoos by Mauricio Miranda, davide Maesri and Giovanni Giannoni

4 4 WWDSTYLE WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 19, 2011 milan men s Dsquared2 Cosume Naional Pringle of Scoland men s collecions MILAN fall 2011 DSQUARED2: Se agains a craggy mounain scene, Dsquared2 explored a heme hey dubbed Brokeback Mormon. Despie he promising pun, he show fel kind of one noe. Rugged-chic combinaions included low-slung disressed jeans, denim jackes, and meal-sudded bels mixed wih dress shirs and dapper waiscoas reminiscen of 19h-cenury American preachers. Silhouees were long, lean, and layered. Horn-rimmed specs, cowboy gloves, aprons and on-rend, round has compleed he look. COSTUME NATIONAL: In he name of Rebel Tailoring, Ennio Capasa diched he shir and ie for cool Mod-flavored mohair sweaers, worn under slim rock n roll suis wih Chelsea boos. He fused quiled leaher biker sleeves ono blazers and flipped he renchcoa o reveal is inner workings. The collecion fel sleek and youhful wih some grea fabric fusions, from frosed nylons o washed leahers, hough i was well shy of revoluionary. PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND: An urban gamekeeper was how creaive direcor Clare Waigh Keller described he collecion s fall look ha combined brand auheniciy wih an obvious new moderniy, visible in he firm s signaure kniwear, which was ransformed ino hooded parkas and biker jackes. Meanwhile, classic shooing jacke deails found heir way ono clean silhouees. Umi Benan: Invesmen banker ypes sraigh ou of he Eighies film Wall Sree and Bre Eason Ellis corporae anihero Parick Baeman were he ouchsone for Umi Benan s wiy and wearable fall collecion. The narcissisic cas preening and swigging whisky during his evocaive presenaion a he Baglioni Hoel bar spored nay houndsooh shirs wih oversize pockes, wool overcoas and fine checkered suis. Benan coninues o burnish his rising sar.

5 WWDSTYLE Wednesday, january 19, Tod s The New Tradiionaliss IalIan accessories brands paid homage o radiion and arisanal crafsmanship, while managing o push he boundaries wih innovaive echniques, ouches of color from red o purple and quirky combinaions of maerials and hides. We are specialiss in he reamen of leaher, remarked Diego Della Valle, od s chairman and chief execuive officer, highlighing he company s disincive feaure. and from his axiom, od s reworked is imeless Winer Gommino in supple variaions of brushed suede and vinage calfskin or ponyskin in sand, sone, honey and chocolae hues. In une wih a more formal rend, he brand showed a black paen loafer wih a wedged rubber sole in lace-up and slip-on versions. IPad cases in a range of hides, including crocodile and pyhon, and luxurious shearling jackes also were his among he funcional range of producs. elsewhere in he od s sable, Hogan s collecion was dubbed Fuure roos, and was jus ha: a combinaion of radiional and arisan reamens and high-ech innovaion, said group vice presiden andrea Della Valle. he brand, conrolled by od s spa, showed sneakers crafed using a echnique where he leaher ha makes up he upper is lined on he reverse side hen urned inside ou and hammered ou hiding he siching. I s informal and modern, clean and essenial, in sync wih Hogan s urban-chic radiion, said Della Valle. a sergio rossi, creaive direcor Francesco russo played off he house s radiion, while selecively adding more conemporary ouches. Mixed-media pieces, as in he oxfords wih camouflage-prined pony insers were sandous, as were he gold-coaed calfskin moccasins. leaher oxfords also were closed wih hooks borrowed from rekking gear, showing an unusual rubber quarer siffener. and shearling-lined classic suede booies were accened wih hand-siched oecaps. Valexra inroduced is calfskin cover for BlackBerry s PlayBook in colors such as smoky london gray, royal blue, ocher and he brand s signaure pergamena whie. his is a pracical objec, ye i s luxurious, high Valexra Hogan Sergio Rossi qualiy and sylish, said chairman and ceo emanuele carminai Molina. Here is a synergy beween wo brands ha share he same vision and combine funcionaliy and creaiviy. Inspired by he sylish London man, Jimmy Choo s debu men s foowear collecion feaures classic syles, wih a dash of luxe and glamour. All he models from Chelsea boos o loafers o he classic monk-srap shoe wih English pewer buckle are fully lined in leaher; sneakers are fashioned from cashmere flannel; disressed biker boos have shearling on he inside, while he Wellingon boos a collaboraion wih Huner come embossed wih a crocodile paern. There is even a signaure Porno Paisley slipper, wih silhouees of undulaing ladies, à la James Bond, and black lacquered soles. I s a sand-alone collecion for he man who s on he arm of a Jimmy Choo woman, said Joshua Schulman, he company s chief execuive officer. Prices range from $595 o $1,095, and he line will launch wih wholesale disribuion, on-line a jimmychoo.com and wih one-off projecs such as pop-up shops. Schulman said he aim is o build credibiliy in men s foowear, alongside he more esablished brands. IN THE SHOWROOMS Diesel Black Gold Marni Nicole Farhi Marc Jacobs Aquascuum Sole Man Marc Jacobs: Old-school hemes in men s wear miliary, equesrian, Briish arisocracy are invading hipser urf. Inspired by lae Briish auhor and war hero Michael Burn, he New York designer mined he Fories, creaing a quie, classic collecion wih period ouches and deails. Fur-collared coas in faigue shades were sandous. Two-buon suis had more pronounced shoulders and roomier pans. Inenionally pilled cashmere sweaers and prins by New York graffii aris Bas added some downown quirk. Gianfranco Ferré: Designers Tommaso Aquilano and Robero Rimondi gave heir scissors a workou wih his snazzy, sharply ailored collecion filled wih Prince of Wales and hounds ooh checks, and chalk and pinsripe fabrics. Long double-breased overcoas in velve or cashmere were sandous. However, he pinsripe suis in fores green or maroon were far more suied o he cas of Guys and Dolls han o Ferré s conemporary ciy slickers. Dio for he leaher car coas in deep green or midnigh blue which were molo Sarsky & Huch. Diesel Black Gold: Designer Robero Lorenzi combined a ailored, miliary sreak, as in he surdy coas a imes rimmed wih fur, wih faded or pinsriped denim pans and sriped or polka-do shirs in une wih he brand s rock heriage. Marni: Looking o expand is cusomer base, Marni inroduced in-house denim pieces, such as a boxy, deconsruced jacke. In une wih an overall uiliarian mood, he collecion feaured onesie suis, mixed media jackes, surdy corduroy pans and zipped-up shirs wih a graphic do paern, all in a mued color palee wih shos of flame red or brigh orange. Bally For more MEN S COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ MENSWEAR-NEWS. Gianfranco Ferré Bally: Briish designers Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz have heard he siren call some would say yodel of Swizerland, creaing a rugged collecion inspired by he foress, lakes and mounains of Bally s home. Wha we se ou o do is make a masculine, hones, hard-wearing collecion inspired by he naural beauy, said Herz. Their impressive debu feaured mounaineering-inspired lace-up boos, surdy feled wool sweaers, and wool coas wih a deachable rabbi fur lining and a nylon ouer face. Nicole Farhi: In his firs collecion for he label, Massimo Nicosia ook some of Nicole Farhi s signaures linen, sof ailoring, and kniwear in a fresh direcion, combining hem wih harder-edged fabrics and finishes for he cold winer monhs. In his ques o ransform kniwear ino ouerwear, Nicosia coaed linen sweaers wih bonded jersey and paired shir weigh linens wih fel for jackes. I waned o give he linen some body, and keep he silhouees from being oo slouchy, said Nicosia during a walk-hrough. He gave wool a weaher-proof finish, oo, fiing coas wih lighweigh, deachable nylon shells and mixed weed wih linen o give jackes exra hef and proecion. Aquascuum: Joanna Sykes firs collecion as design direcor inroduced a more direcional edge ino he label s Limied line: leanly ailored suis wih srucured shoulders and wider lapels. We ve given suiing a Briish feel, said Sykes, who employed Savile Row echniques. For he brand s London collecion, kniwear and performance caegories have been expanded. Sandou pieces included heavy gauge sal-and pepper sweaers, double-layer jackes wih waerproof shells and jersey separaes wih a weedlike appearance. phoos by Mauricio Miranda, davide Maesri and Giovanni Giannoni

6 6 WWDSTYLE Wednesday, january 19, 2011 fashion Thinking On Your Fee Bridge Foley s Diary When Alber elbaz famously delayed he sar of his spring show for lanvin so ha models who sruggled hrough he rehearsal could swich from dangerously high meal sileos ino flas, he elevaed his already lofy pro-real-woman image o cul saus. Toss off hose heels, ladies! be who you are! be comforable in your fashion skin and in your shoes! The criics, his one included, swooned; one absoluely buys ino he convicion of elbaz s las-minue decision. Tha said, his dazzling fla sandals, shiny and bejeweled, were par of a major runway rend oward, dare we say i, sensible shoes. Yes sensible shoes, a phrase ha has long sen shudders down he hyper-bony backs of fashion s mos ouré consumers. I s likely ha, when he runway-ediorial penchan for major shoes sared years ago, many people hough and balenciaga ape major orhopedic foowear while screaming fashion bravado. I s in he middle where hings ge dicey. All hings in moderaion? no so when i comes o fashion. Time was when exremes on he runway were reimagined ino more manageable commercial fare. bu oday s uberfashion cusomer hough a small par he luxury-buying universe, she s essenial and influenial has become accusomed o working exreme fashion, especially when i comes o her shoes. even he chices of moderaion may prove no her cup of ea. A key quesion is wheher fashion-loving women of immoderae personal syles will fancy oned-down foowear. no he accepable, $500 balle fla ha has become he fashion girl s errand-running shoe of choice, bu shoes of moderae, is-i-fashion-or-doher-fee-hur hef, and runway akes on prey classics, such as hose raf Simons showed a Jil Sander. I posed he quesion o hree women in he indusry, one each from he essenial roika of high fashion design, reail and ediorial: Alexander McQueen s Sarah buron, bergdorf Goodman s linda Fargo and elle s Kae lanphear. The sarorial middle ground is no he McQueen woman s way, according o buron. A McQueen woman of specialy reailers, paricularly in he U.S. A woman who goes ino a McQueen shop, I don hink she s a midheigh cusomer. You walk in o buy an amazing ailored jacke or a fur coa or a beauiful evening gown, you re no going o say, Where s my comfy shoe? Fargo will ell you ha, while he mos advanced bergdorf s cusomer may no worry abou such hings, legions of shoppers do. I ve been kind of waiing for his momen, she said of he spring runway season. We had owering saemen shoes and we had flas. She noed ha, he core fashion people for shoes Manolo blahnik, Chrisian loubouin, Chanel have never urned heir backs on ha, and i shows in heir business. Sill, Fargo acknowledged ha saisfying hose cusomers on fashion s all-imporan edge is essenial. She said ha, even predaing spring, here have been impressive sensible opions from Givenchy ( hose grea sandal-shoe booies ), YSl (he Tribue), loubouin (wedges), Chloé (balle flas) and lanvin ( no jus one shoe ). In general she loves plaforms and wedges, because You ge [he heigh] wih a more reasonable incline. I s imporan ha such manageable shoes wrap heir comfor in a whole lo of syle. I m really looking for fashion a hese middle, manageable heel heighs. Manolo Blahnik A key quesion is wheher fashion-loving women of immoderae personal syles will fancy oned-down foowear. Chanel Roger Vivier ha was jus where i would say, on he runway and in pushed magazine sories. Few could have imagined how lierally i would be embraced by edgy fashion cusomers, nor how long he fascinaion would las. To wi, given a few prey runway shoe sighings, a feaure in he March 2007 issue of W magazine wondered wheher major shoes, call hem wha you will sculpural, saemen, aggressive were on he way ou. Time has delivered a very clear quie-he-opposie. And as shoes have goen higher, bolder, sexier, more sculpural, more aggressive, so, oo, have he personal syles of he women who wear hem. now, suddenly, wih spring shoes hiing he selling floor, a far more moderae look is in play. no, make ha a more manageable look, podiarically speaking, as spring shoe offerings indicae jus how far flung sensible can be. righ now a Saks Fifh Avenue, bergdorf Goodman and barneys in new York, he residuals of he fall sales derac aenion from he resor bouny, filled wih appealing espadrilles, plaforms and fla sandals of he sor ha will carry ino spring. Which from a fashion perspecive, are no he dubious side of sensible. Fla sandals swing from Taliha Gey boho o fashionably (which is o say faux) earhy. They ve been around awhile and fashionisa ypes consider hem de rigueur for heir off-duy lives and even for hose ho summer no-much-going-on days a work. Similarly, spring s chic clunkers from Prada Brian Awood Sella Proenza Schouler McCarney I don wan i o sar geing skewed o dowdy and plain, added Fargo hence he creaive Alexander McQueen challenge, as Moderaion Avenue is where Dowdy and Plain ofen reside. Ofen, bu no always. (hello, geek chic and heyday of minimalism). lanphear s personal ase in foowear he higher he beer is as nonemperae as i ges. Ye she feels invigoraed by he emergence of a new proporion. I s nice when you see somehing you really couldn predic come down he runway, she said. Jil Sander Marc Jacobs As an edior, she finds direcions aniheical o her own syle and exciing. is such a powerful woman. [A heel] gives her elegance; i gives her poise, she said. The on-he-runway aesheic, from he McQueen poin, is i s always very much abou a woman, no really a girl, said buron. She is srong; she has a wais and she has a shoulder when you pu a jacke on, you can feel is characer; i has a feeling of srengh. The same way, when you pu a heel on, you feel more powerful. You have a heigh and you have a presence. The McQueen woman challenges herself and wans o feel sexy and incredible. She also has he pracical need for a grea pair of flas, which buron loves and wears daily o work. She noed an indusrial-srengh low-heeled boo wih chain deail from he pre-fall collecion she previewed on Tuesday. Tha s he McQueen woman. She s eiher very high or she s fla, bu she s no in beween. Midheigh shoes presen a paricular design challenge, buron offered: geing he proporion o look good in fron, bu she is compelled o saisfy he needs I obviously rejec a lo of fashion personally. Tha s anyhing wih a bow, if you know wha I mean. bu in a way i s ineresing o have somehing ha s a huge rend ha you migh no embrace personally because you re really forced o hink abou how, realisically, someone migh wear i. lanphear invoked he age-old, rock-solid noion ha i akes ime for he eye o adjus, even if in he pas said adjusmen was more ofen o, raher han away from, exremes. Fashion is like his lovely experimen. [Shoes] migh change long-erm. Or jus for a lile while o ge a lile relief from he podiariss office. Along he way, giving hose who lack he graceful gene (I know all abou ha malady) a chance o feel on-rend. Said Fargo, even hough he line may be sexy, here s nohing really sexy abou someone sruggling in her shoes. I don care wheher i s he runway or he sidewalk.

7 WWDSTYLE Wednesday, january 19, dallas preview Liberalia a Seven Threads. Red Haue a Pam Marin. Bordeaux a Pam Marin. The Big Game DallaS as Super bowl XlV mania envelops Dallas in anicipaion of he Feb. 6 game, local fashion designer abi Ferrin has scored wih off he Field, a nonprofi associaion of NFl players wives. Ferrin s draped conemporary dresses and sporswear will be feaured in he group s Feb. 4 luncheon fashion show a he Fairmon Hoel benefiing S. Jude Children s research Hospial. NFl wives will model in he 10h annual runway show before an audience of 600 NFl curren and reired players, heir wives and oher supporers. Pa Smih, wife of NFl Hall of Famer and former Dallas Cowboy emmi Smih, plans o emcee he show in a long green Ferrin dress. abi exemplifies wha he organizaion is abou, which is supporing he communiy and helping ohers, she said. Ferrin s agline is Fashion wih Freedom and Purpose, and each of her pieces has an elemen made by women rescued from he sex rade in Cambodia and Nepal. Ferrin also employs he women o make fabric cluches. Some of hem will model a he lunch. Conemporary Push in Dallas By Holly Haber buyers will find five new conemporary and accessories showrooms and a bigger selecion of junior conemporary clohes a FashionCenerDallas when i hoss a spring and summer marke, Jan. 27 o 30, a he World Trade Cener. our conemporary neighborhood is 98 percen leased, noed Sephanie Cole, vice presiden of apparel leasing a he Dallas Marke Cener Co., which operaes he venue. and young conemporary emporary exhibis have expanded more han 30 percen compared o 2009, and we don see ha slowing down. Furher, Cole hopes o arac addiional bridge resources wih a new shared showroom called Salon ha will open in March. locaed on he 15h floor near he rear skylighs, i is designed o house six collecions. Tops, dresses, margin builders and brands ha don wind up a discouners will coninue o be prioriies for reailers, prediced sales agens. They expec business o focus on deliveries from February hrough May, hough some showrooms will be ready for fall. The January show should be good, said bill Guice, who owns he Tableau accessories showroom. People were very conservaive las fall, and heir sock levels should be low, and hey have o refill he wagons. Seven Threads showroom will make is debu in room in he conemporary area known as Disric 15. Veeran sales rep Terry Harner founded he company wih her daugher, Kaleigh bergsrom, and longime employee Chrisina runnels. Harner lef he showroom she sared wih her husband, Sco Harner & associaes. We were ogeher doing business for 28 years, said Terry Harner, explaining ha he couple is geing divorced. bu I love his business oo much o le i go, so ha s why I sared my own showroom. Harner will show big Sar premium denim for men and women, which had been a Sco Harner. She s also inroducing wo T-shir lines by evelyn riddle, he former designer of Skinny Minnie ops: liberalia has a conemporary vibe and wholesales from $7 o $12; Gypsy Daisy is he same price bu has a younger look. Seven Threads will also represen Willow Creek Designs Jewelry, a serling collecion wih inspiraional and faih-based inscripions. New o he 15h floor arium is he Pam Marin & Co. showroom, which moved from Fashion Indusry Gallery. Marin said she couldn resis he glass-walled corner room because of is prime locaion and layou. I was previously leased o leon Max, which closed is Dallas office. Marin has long represened ops and dresses by bordeaux, Creme Fraiche, Weson Wear, Zola, Cenral Park Wes and Shae, plus Isabella Fiore handbags. Nex week she ll also inroduce edgy kni ops wholesaling from $30 o $45 by Pee. a lo of people need o fill in spring, and he fourh quarer was beer han hey hough i was going o be, she observed. righ now my sores are buying ops 9-o-1 over booms. oher Disric 15 showrooms will spor renovaions, including The block, leon & associaes and Samax Inc. on he 13h floor, Jayden Sar accessories from New york will inroduce upscale fashion jewelry collecions in room 13564, formerly occupied by The Silver Tribe, which is moving o a bigger space. Jayden Sar represens seven lines from Ialy, including 1ar by Unoaerre, Giorgio Marello, rena luxx, Madame Mysique, Margheria buonanno and I. bijoux Di Simonea, plus ana Collecion Israel. Meanwhile, The Silver Tribe, owned by Jayshree Dalal, has expanded ino he arium space previously held by Kahy Flahavin & associaes, which closed afer many years in business. Dalal has an esablished clienele for anique Indian fine jewelry wih royal and ribal provenances. She also offers conemporary pieces inspired by Indian arisry and crafed in silver wih semiprecious sones. Toal Design Jewelry by Jeff lieb, a sculpural collecion, has leased showroom lieb s lighweigh, curlicue pieces are made of a lead-free aluminum and resin ha he developed. lieb is based in Highland Park, Ill. Pleny of sparkle is in sore a Crysals on Fire in 13810, a local manufacurer ha syles crysal and semiprecious jewelry, plus pavé crysal shoes and cell phone cases. Designed by Sephanie berman, he wo-year-old company is based in nearby Plano, Texas, where i has a sore a he Shops a Willow bend mall. anoher growing accessories business is Seasonal Whispers, a New york-based company ha more han doubled is showroom space o 1,700 square fee on he arium in room Seasonal Whispers offers an exensive line of rendy crysal, pearl and chain fashion jewelry and hair accessories. esher lixenberg and yafi Goldfarb, he moher-daugher eam behind he brand, will share he space wih handbags and accessories by leaders in leaher. The Scene s emporary show on he 13h floor will showcase Mia by Vicki audee, a rendy line of fingerless gloves made of repurposed sweaers and fabrics so ha each pair is unique. In addiion, Virgins, Sains, & angels jewelry inspired by religious icons will show for he firs ime a Scene. I am rying o focus on cusomer service and he bes way o see as many of our exising cliens as we can, said Cheryl Finnegan, designer. A dress by Abi Ferrin, feaured designer a he Off he Field fashion show. Many of Ferrin s silk or mae jersey designs can be worn muliple ways. They reail from $150 o $750. Nordsrom a NorhPark Cener will inroduce a dozen Ferrin looks his monh, including a signaure jersey dress ha can be worn five ways and a haler op in he eam colors of he Super bowl conenders. I creaed a logisical nighmare for myself, Ferrin admied. I won know he eam colors unil he 23rd, and hey need o be in-sore by he 28h, so I m going o do he final four [eams] and ship he final wo. H.H. Fashion indusry Gallery 1807 Ross Avenue, Dallas summer Marke Jan. 27 o 29 8 a.m. o 6 p.m., daily By appoinmen, Jan. 26 and 30. Cockail pary: Jan. 27 a 5:30 p.m., lobby. new showrooms: Modial Bijoux fashion jewelry and waches, Gallery 158, and Sudio Two Clohing, Gallery 126 FERRIN PHOTO BY BODE HELM

8 8 WWDSTYLE WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 19, 2011 media Two of American Media s iles. PHOTOS BY SARAH A. FRIEDMAN/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES ge i [Newsweek] because we waned o move he magazine o Boca, said Pecker. Also, hey didn like being associaed wih he Naional Enquirer. Bu i would have added somehing o he magazine. They could have pu a spin on poliics, enerainmen, business, made i more ongue-in-cheek. And maybe been able o spread he coss. Harman, of course, is now in he mids of doing a deal wih Barry Diller and Tina Brown o combine Newsweek wih The Daily Beas a combinaion of wo money-losing properies wih he hope hey can become profiable. Pecker sill has his eye on a few prin prospecs, revealing he d love o acquire Maxim a some poin. I would be he perfec complemen o wha we already do, he said. Which, in addiion o AMI s abloids, now involves Playboy. A year ago, Playboy s ceo, Sco Flanders, asked Pecker o run ha ile s adverising, circulaion and disribuion operaions. Pecker s company sells ads for he magazine, playboy.com and hesmokingjacke.com. We have 35 proposals ou and expec o announce wo more magazines, he size of Playboy, in mid-february, he said. AMI was up 9.3 percen in ad pages for he second half of 2010, according o he Publishers Informaion Bureau (he company has 15 magazines and gossip Web sie Radar). The firm isn par of he Nex Issue Consorium looking a digial plaforms (AMI wasn invied o paricipae), bu he said i makes no difference. This year, he s adding e-commerce sores for Muscle & Finess, Flex and Men s Finess, and laer on will inroduce online sores for Shape and Fi Pregnancy. David Pecker: Chairman of he Tabloids By AMY WICKS A nhrax. Bankrupcy. Scandal. One of hose alone would be enough o ruin he career of any media honcho. Then here s David Pecker. The chairman, chief execuive officer and perennial cheerleader of American Media Inc. has survived all of hose and more in his 12 years a he company noorious for is abloids (Sar, he Naional Enquirer); finess magazines (Shape and Flex), and Web sies (Radar). And now, only 32 days afer exiing a bankrupcy ha saw invesors lose millions, he charismaic, brash Pecker says he has $50 million in free cash flow and he s primed for acquisiions. Before you laugh, remember ha Pecker was one of wo bidders lef in he chase for Newsweek evenually losing ou o Sidney Harman, who bough i for $1 and he assumpion of deb. I s perhaps only one sign ha a ceo who seems o have more saying power han hose perennial Marians in Brooklyn headlines, is again on he upswing. AMI has new revenue sreams (i manages Playboy s adverising, circulaion and disribuion, and Pecker is making more deals wih similar-size magazines) and digial growh. The company is making $3 million a year in digial, hanks o adverising and cusom digial magazines. Are he oher compeiors doing ha ye? Pecker wondered. I don hink so. A smooh-alking salesman who has never le go of his rademark Tom Selleck musache, Pecker runs a lean, enrepreneurial-syle business ha a imes has employees doing he work of hree o four people (a model in his newly lean era of publishing ha oher firms are rapidly adoping). We don have a huge reporing srucure or levels of managemen, Pecker said in an inerview a AMI s cramped offices on 33rd and Park Avenue in Manhaan (alhough i soon will be moving o 4 New York Plaza downown, where he ren is presumably even cheaper). We encourage accounabiliy and aggressive reporing, and if you make a misake, ha s OK. Those who work wih Pecker say his is rue, bu add ha his word is he firs and las a meeings, and colleagues aren encouraged o disagree wih his opinions. There s a lo of auonomy. If you succeed, you ge credi; if you fail, i can ge ugly, noed one source. Case in poin: Pecker pu remendous rus in Enquirer execuive edior Barry Levine. Levine spen nine monhs reporing on he Teflon-coaed presidenial candidae John Edwards, who he Enquirer repored had an exended affair wih Rielle Huner, a filmmaker who covered his campaign. AMI s chief invesed a solid six-figures, wih reporing eams all over he counry, even as he mainsream media wouldn ouch he sory and dismissed i. Bu he Enquirer was righ, and Levine was heralded. The resul was, for a momen, naional recogniion, respecabiliy for he supermarke abloid and a chance a a Pulizer Prize (he sars weren ha ou of alignmen i didn win). We were recognized a he highes level, and i mean a lo, said Pecker. He said his is he kind of sory he would have pu in Newsweek had he acquired i, alhough he is David Pecker, so would have covered i in a differen way. Las summer, he newsweekly considered wo offers, one from AMI and he oher from Harman. We didn Always he booser, Pecker is all smiles and presens a charming pich for his company. Bu some inside he halls of AMI aren buying i. They insis morale has aken a hi since he bankrupcy and wonder why managemen wasn more forhrigh abou he mandaory hree-day furloughs ha followed. Three people were also fired from he Los Angeles bureau, and some employees were riled by he big paymens AMI s shareholders approved for op execuives, pos bankrupcy. There hasn been a revol or anyhing near wha s been ou here, Pecker insised. Las week, Gawker solicied commen on morale and received several leers from ediors praising Pecker. He mainains ha he never asked his ediors o do his. I really don undersand where i comes from, said Shape edior in chief, Tara Kraf, who has been wih he company since This is he longes ime I ve ever spen a one corporaion. When I was jus a beauy direcor a Sar, he would have lunch wih me and ask wha I waned o do nex. I don hink ha would happen a anoher company. Sar s edior in chief, Candace Trunzo, seemed o agree. He s very accessible, and if you wan a decision from him, he will make i very quickly. He s ough, bu he s oally loyal. Then here was he flip side: several former employees conaced by WWD declined o commen, some expressing fear of repercussions. No ha any of i phases Pecker. A 59 years old, he has oulased almos every oher media ceo on he scene when he ook over a AMI in And he doesn appear o be going anywhere soon. I m he chairman of he abloids, he said. You giveh and akeh. Believe me, I undersand ha.