THE PERFECT LONG HAIRCUT

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2 MARTIN HILLIER From the runways and salons to streets in every city and every country, examples of personal style are on display for us to view and admire. But while personal style comes from a wonderful place we call the imagination, the underlying force that drives our imagination is knowledge. The knowledge of how and why something works provides us with a basic foundation that allows us to create anything we can imagine with precision and stability. In this first book of Basics, we will guide you step-by-step through the basic techniques behind many of Senscience s most popular signature looks of the last decade, providing you with a solid foundation to create any hairstyle imaginable. 2 3

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4 BEFORE THE PERFECT LONG HAIRCUT Extremely versatile long cuts are always in demand. Long haircuts can be worn straight or curly, up or down, 1 When cutting long hair, don t feel you always need to start at the back or in the same place. Here, we are going to begin our cut through the front and sides, working down into our eventual length. Take a section along the hairline, allowing all the side area to be accounted for. 2 Choose your length through the center front. The length you choose here will effect the rest of the cut, so take your time with the first cut. 3 Once your center length is established, follow this line down through the sides of the hair drawing the sides down to your longest chosen length. 4 Once the center and both sides are complete, continue to add sections from farther back, graduating them in with your original cut line. providing an endless array of feminine and sensual styling possibilities. 5 Continue your line through to the center of the back until all the hair has been shaped through to the front. 6 Now you are ready to begin our layers. Once you have lifted your first section, layer through the center of the back. Lift and hold hair taught and firm in your fingers; then once the length is established, drop your hand to a comfortable cutting level and remove the excess hair. 7 Pivoting around both sides of the back, continue to lift, drop and cut. 8 You will finish the back at the ear on both sides before moving into the front sections. 6 9 Now continuing your layers, move into the side and work forward until you run out of hair. Again, remember if you have a weak hairline, just allow the hair on either side of the shorter area to dictate your end result. You are now ready to finish the back length. 10 Your basic shape and layers are now firmly established. All you need to do now is move to the back and decide if you want a square finish or a rounded finish to your length. 11 Your cut is now compete and ready for styling! So lets go through some fun ways to work with long hair. 7

5 The Modern Twist and Pull Braided hairstyles allow for uncomplicated creativity. By using this simple braiding technique, you can create a modern twist on the updo with minimal time and effort, 1 With either damp or dry hair; take a section out that extends from temple to temple and just past the crown at the back. Pin out of way on top. 2 Using some Perfect Smooth, place product on remaining hair. 3 Now section the side hair into two sections as shown. 4 Begin to twist the two section over each other. 5 Sliding your tail comb under the bottom hair, score a line up to your established rope section. 6 Gather the section and add it to the section closest to you and wrap over the top section to continue the rope effect. yet having your client look stunning. 7 Continue to gather the sections the same way as you move back; the top section becoming the bottom section as the shape builds. 8 Work your shape back toward the center of the back, twisting and gathering more hair each time. 9 Once the hair is loose and away from the scalp, divide the hair into three sections and begin to braid the hair to keep it firm and stop it from unraveling; add a small elastic to the end. Repeat on the opposite side. Fold the sections into the rope and pin to hide the ends. 10 Now with your tail comb, start to section random sections and spray with Thermal Spray. 11 Barrel roll the section with a curling iron and clip to hold. 12 Continue back, spraying Thermal Spray, barrel curling and clipping until all sections are done. 13 Once sections have cooled down, you can begin to backcomb the root area to create a pad for lift and volume. 14 Smooth the ends of the section, then lightly spay the hair with Silk Finish allowing the curl to reestablish itself. 15 Taking the curled ends, divide into three sections and braid allowing the ends to remain free and curly. 16 With half of one of your braided sections, now push the braid down toward the backcombed area, establish your shape and clip into place along the braid to secure. 17 Continue through each section, building your shape as you go until all sections are complete. Finish with Silk Finish and a light dusting of Brilliant Defense. Brush Blow-Dry Blow-drying with a round brush provides the perfect foundation for creating glamorous hairstyles with soft movement and volume. This easy-to- 8 follow technique will make every client feel like a Hollywood starlet. 1 Add Volume Boost throughout damp, freshly shampooed hair, paying attention not to miss the root area. Section the front and back areas into two sections down the center as shown. 2 Using a round, short bristled boar brush, begin to dry the first section at the nape lifting the brush up to create lift. Once hair is dry, lift once more and wind down to the root as you would with a roller to catch the brush into the hair. 3 Moving to the second section at the nape, repeat the process keeping the handles of the brushes pointing toward the center of the neck. 4 Continue to stack the brushes as you move up the head toward the crown. With the last section at the crown, you will work by lifting in the same manner, but through the center of the shape as shown. 5 Moving into the sides and top, decide if you want the movement to sit forward or back, then place your brushes accordingly. If you want major root lift, place your brushes directly on the root section; if you want a softer movement, then drag your brushes to flatten out the body. When all brushes are in place, allow a few minutes for hair to cool, then remove rollers and brush, comb or rake hair into place. Set hair with with Silk Finish. 9

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8 BEFORE Cross Front Ponytail The iconic ponytail is to the updo what the classic bob is to cutting whether 1 Begin by sectioning the front hair from the back as shown. Lift the back hair into a high ponytail and secure with an elastic. 2 Once hair is secure in the ponytail, braid the hair two or three times, secure hair again with an elastic. 3 Move to the front of the hair. Take an inch-wide section directly down the center of the head and pull back toward the ponytail. 4 Spray the hair with Design Spray, then wrap the hair around the braided part of the ponytail. worn casually or on the Red Carpet, it s always right. Here s a simple technique for classing up the ponytail to make it worthy of any occasion. 5 Wrap the section up the length until you run out of hair, then secure by pushing a pin down into the shaft of the ponytail. 6 Now moving back to the front section, take another thick section on one side of the established center shape and cross it over to the original section. Bring it back to the ponytail and repeat the wrap. 7 Moving back to the front section, take another thick section on one side of the established center shape and cross it over the original section. Bring it back to the ponytail and repeat the wrap. 8 Continue this pattern, moving from one side to the other, building up a crisscross shape to the front and firming up the lifted ponytail at the back. 9 When you reach the last section by the ear on each side, instead of wrapping to the front of the shape, take the sections to the back of the ponytail. This will help enhance the shape and cover the side parting areas

9 Cross OVER Modern Up do Moving on from our ponytail. We can see how secure hair becomes once elasticated into place. So, using our elastics to create areas of interest, we will now build stunning shapes that will 1 Gather clean, dry hair from the top section, pull it back past the crown and secure with an elastic. 2 Choose a center area below the occipital bone, bring hair to one side and secure with an elastic. 3 With the remainder of the hair, place in an elastic in the center of the nape. 4 Working section by section, begin to spray hair with Thermal Spray. last through any occasion. 5 With the curling iron size of your choice, begin to curl the sections. 6 View of all sections curled. 7 Once all hair has been curled, begin to backcomb each section, leaving out a small piece of hair from the underneath of each ponytail. 8 Use this little piece of hair that you have left out to wrap around the elastic. This has three purposes: it lifts the hair away from the scalp; it covers the elastic; and it provides a secure area for pinning Now that all hair has been wrapped and backcombed, smooth all the outer edges with your boar bristle brush. Finish with Design Spray. 10 Now pin a fine hair net (either matching the hair color to blend in, or opposite the hair color to stand out) to the top of the ponytail, drawing the net down over the hair. Place the hair in the area you find most flattering to the shape you are building. Once in place, secure with bobby pins. 11 Continue with the second section, working in the same manner. 12 Once your last section is in place, adjust your shape to please the eye and then spray with Silk Finish to complete your look. *Once you understand this technique, there are a myriad of different combinations you can accomplish on all lengths and types of hair. 17

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12 BEFORE Basic Medium Length inverted Cut When cutting longer hair, simple layering will add body and movement 1 Start cut by determining the front parting. Then section the front out of the way and move to the back section. 2 Section the back through the center. Bring the first section in the back down, determine your length and cut a straight line. 3 Elevate the next back section up and invert the graduation. 4 Repeat on the opposite side as you move up. to the hair for sure. But remember, if you change your angle of layering you create a whole new dimension to a look. Here by inverting our layers we keep length yet reduce wait allowing the shorter layers to push the weight in the direction we are cutting to for volume and style. 5 Continue to work up the back sections, graduating and inverting as you go. 6 As you work toward the crown, the underneath hair will drop away and you will work toward a strong inversion as seen at the crown. 7 Once the back is complete, you will continue your line into the side sections. Lift the hair high to keep the inverted layer. 8 Remember, if the angle or height of the layer is too much, once your correct tension is established, lower the hand and then cut. 9 When all the layers have been established, you can move into the sides and soften the front shape to your desired length. Your cut is now ready for styling and detailing as you see fit

13 Flat Ironing to Collapse Shape Change the angle, change the shape! Whether you want to collapse your style, build body or add waves of lift at the roots, the angle in which you flat iron like cutting and coloring will alter your outcome. 1 First section the hair nearest to the face (in line with the hairline). After spraying the section with Thermal Design Spray, hold your iron on an angle with the hairline and draw down to smooth the hair. 2 As you smooth each section, remember to use your comb as a guide in front of the iron and keep the two tools moving as you work down the hair shaft. 3 As you smooth each section, remember to use your comb as a guide in front of the iron and keep the two tools moving as you work down the hair shaft. Modern Marilyn Technique Here s a great, modern way to add panache to any style. By simply using a basic curling iron, stylists can create casual curl and soft movement without the commitment of a texture service. 1 Start by choosing your parting at the front hairline (modern parts or divides tend to be lower so that hair can cascade over the eye). 2 Once your parting area has been chosen, spray the hair well with Thermal Design Spray to protect the hair and hold the curl. 3 Now taking your first section, draw the hair back away from the hairline in your iron and roll down onto the base of the section. This will cause the hair to spring up, creating lift at the hairline.. 4 View of lift at the hairline. 5 Move to the next section behind the first and continue with the same pattern. 6 Once your front sections are done, pin them in place and move to your side sections. Using the same technique of working away from the hairline, spraying and curling the hair. 7 Repeat with the next section on both sides as shown. 8 When the top and both sides are curled,move into the top hair. Just forward of the crown you will now begin by curling your section back (this will create volume and lift in the opposite direction). 9 Here you can see your first section curled back loose and then pinned to hold the shape Continue with your sections until all hair is sprayed, curled and pinned into place. Allow hair to cool. 11 When hair is completely cool, remove pins, elevate head back, use your fingers to shake the hair loose, then allow hair settle. 12 Once all hair is settled, return to the first section at the front. With your pintail comb, begin to pack your back combing at the root of your curl (this will add volume whilst keeping your ends free, soft and curly). 13 Continue to work your backcombing into the roots all around your shape using a little Design Spray as you go. You will end up with lifted roots and a beautiful, soft shape that flows and shines. Finish your look with Silk Finish and a light spray of Brilliant Defense. 25

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15 senscience.com Senscience Intl., Dist. Division ZII, Darien, CT Printed in Canada HAIR Martin Hillier PHOTOGRAPHER Justin Brimacombe MAKEUP Tracy Bowers 02438