AquaCacteen Soothes and hydrates women s and men s skin

Transcription

1 AquaCacteen Soothes and hydrates women s and men s skin

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3 AquaCacteen Soothes and hydrates women s and men s skin Highly Effective Moisturizing and Soothing Active AquaCacteen is an ultra-refined elixir from organic cactus (Opuntia ficus-indica). AquaCacteen blocks the release of stress markers from sensory nerve cells in the skin and calms irritated skin. Furthermore, it has excellent hydrating properties due to its high content of water-binding compounds. Clinical studies conducted on both women and men showed that AquaCacteen was exceptionally soothing and firming. Besides it was found to be very hydrating even when used in rinse-off products. AquaCacteen is available in 2 versions: AquaCacteen: standard version AquaCacteen nc (preservative-free version) which is ECOCERT certified* and contains 96.5 % of ingredients from organic farming. The origin, quality and concentration of cactus extract are exactly the same in both versions. AquaCacteen Soothes and calms irritated skin Hydrates the skin, even in rinse-off formulation Protects and firms skin Applications Face care Body care Sun protection creams Bath and shower gels Men s care Formulating with AquaCacteen Recommended use level: % Incorporation: For cold processes, dissolve AquaCacteen into the aqueous phase. In cold / hot processes, add during the cooling phase below 40 C. Thermostability: Temperatures of up to 60 C for a short time do not affect the stability of AquaCacteen. INCI (EU / PCPC) Declaration AquaCacteen (standard version): Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua / Water AquaCacteen O (oil-soluble version): Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride AquaCacteen nc (ECOCERT certified* version): Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Aqua / Water * raw material certified by Ecocert Greenlife according to the Ecocert Standard for Natural and Organic Cosmetics available at June 2018

4 Opuntia Ficus-Indica Long tradition in soothing skin care Adapted to Extreme Environmental Conditions Opuntia ficus-indica is a succulent cactus native to Mexico and is also known as prickly pear, nopal or Indian fig. Like other cactuses, it has adapted to extreme environmental conditions. The leaves of the plant are actually modified stem segments, often called pads or cladodes, and can store large amounts of water. The original leaves have been transformed to spines, the cuticle is thickened and coated with a waxy layer to help prevent water loss and to shield the stems from intense sunlight. Besides, a biochemical protection against radicals generated by solar radiation is provided by flavonoids. Piscidic Acid, an Excellent Inhibitor of ROS Opuntia is a rich source of insoluble and soluble fibers. Moreover, it contains the vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, and C, the minerals potassium, calcium and magnesium. AquaCacteen also contains piscidic acid, an excellent iron chelator which binds free Fe 2+ / Fe 3+ ions. In skin tissue, Fe 2+ is normally bound to ferritin but UV can decompose this complex leading to the liberation of Fe ions which initiate the formation of OH radicals (Reactive Oxygen Species). Thus, piscidic acid prevents the formation of ROS by complexing Fe 2+. Structure of Piscidic Acid Molecular formula = C 11 H 12 O 7 History of Opuntia in Skin Care The use of Opuntia as a food and medicine dates back to the Aztecs of pre-hispanic Mexico, who revered Opuntia as a sacred plant. They extracted the sap from Opuntia and mixed it with honey and egg yolk to make an ointment to treat burns. Sensitive Skin, a Frequent Disorder Approximately half of the population (60 % of women and 40 % of men) consider their skin as sensitive. Sensitive skin is characterized by an overreaction to non-pathogen stimuli (wind, heat, cold, water, stress) leading to erythema or subjective symptoms such as pricking, burning and discomfort. Other factors such as sun, polluted environment and physical treatments (depilation, shaving) also tend to aggravate the sensitivity of the skin. Men s Skin is Sensitized by Shaving Despite being thicker, rougher and greasier than female skin, men s skin can become sensitive due to repeated shaving: The razor removes the top layers of the stratum corneum. This intensifies the lost of skin lipids which are removed by detergents contained in shaving foams. The skin barrier is thus disturbed leading to irritation, dehydration, inflammatory redness and burning sensations. Besides, ingrown hairs lead to skin irritation. Thus, like women s skin, men s skin need soothing. O O OH OH HO OH HO Mibelle AG Biochemistry 2007

5 AquaCacteen Study results Soothing Activity in a Cell Culture System Sensory nerve cells (neurons) were cultured together with keratinocytes. They were then incubated with the test products. With capsaicin, a strong irritant from chilli pepper, neurons and keratinocytes were stimulated. Stimulation of the cells with capsaicin resulted in a large release of CGRP. Lidocaine (10 6 M) reduced cell response by 61 % and AquaCacteen (0.33 %) by 42 %. This result shows that AquaCacteen can block the release of stress factors and therefore adds soothing properties to cosmetic formulations. To quantify the reaction of the cells, the release of calcitonin gene-related peptide (CGRP) from neurons into the culture medium was measured. This neuropeptide is part of a process that leads to inflammation and itching of the skin. CGRP stimulates mast cells to release histamine that then triggers the inflammation process. Lidocaine, a local anaesthetic that blocks the release of CGRP in neurons, was used as positive control. Sensory System of the Skin Inhibition of the Release of Stress Factors Irritant 300 Mast cell 250 Afferent sensory neuron CGRP Histamine CGRP released in pg / ml Irritation with capsaicin (10-6 M) Control Control Lidocaine AquaCacteen Itching / Inflammation Mibelle Biochemistry S-098a / Mibelle Biochemistry

6 AquaCacteen Study results Short-Term Soothing Effect The soothing effect of AquaCacteen was evaluated on men s skin after shaving. At the beginning of the study, skin irritation was induced on the inner side of forearms of 20 men aged from 35 to 65 by repeated shaving using a commercial razor and a shaving foam. Immediately after shaving, the skin test sites were treated with a 2 % AquaCacteen emulsion or with the corresponding placebo. Then, skin redness was evaluated at different times using a chromameter. Skin redness was determined by measuring the parameter a* in the L*a*b* color system. a* characterizes the color intensity from green to red and an increase of a* indicates an increase of the red constituent of the skin. Results showed that 1 hour after shaving, the redness was significantly reduced in the areas treated with AquaCacteen compared to the placebo. Long-Term Soothing Effect The anti-irritation effect of AquaCacteen was evaluated on 20 volunteers (10 women + 10 men aged from 20 to 55). At the beginning of the study, skin areas on the forearms were treated with occlusive SDS patches for 24 h. Six hours after removing the patches, skin redness (parameter a*) was measured using a chromameter. During the following days, the skin sites were treated twice daily with a hydrogel containing 2 % AquaCacteen or a placebo. After 9 days, the occlusive SDS treatment was repeated. Again six hours after removing the patches, skin redness was measured. After the first SDS treatment, the decrease of skin redness on the skin areas treated with the product containing AquaCacteen was slightly faster than the placebo. After the second irritation, the placebo areas again turned red whereas the redness of the skin areas pre-treated with AquaCacteen was only marginal. Soothing of Men s Skin after Shaving Soothing after Surfactant-Induced Irritation Untreated Placebo 2% AquaCacteen Placebo 2% AquaCacteen Redness (parameter a*) in units Before shaving Shaving Time in min Redness (parameter a*) compared to initial conditions in % h occlusive SDS treatment 24 h occlusive SDS treatment After SDS Days S-247 / Mibelle Biochemistry S-112a / Mibelle Biochemistry

7 Skin Firming despite UV In a study with 20 women aged from 18 to 60, the firming effect of AquaCacteen was confirmed. A 2 % AquaCacteen emulsion was applied twice daily for two weeks. After this pre-treatment, a clear improvement of skin firmness could be measured. The test sites were then radiated with 1 MED. Three days later, without re-applying any test products, skin firmness was found to be reduced in the area treated with the placebo emulsion whereas firmness in the zone treated with 2 % AquaCacteen remained unchanged. Skin Moisturizing despite Rinsing In a study with 20 women aged from 23 to 49, AquaCacteen was shown to increase skin hydration when incorporated in a rinse-off formulation. After a once daily use of a shower gel containing different concentrations of AquaCacteen for two weeks, the skin hydration was measured using a corneometer. Results showed that AquaCacteen increased skin hydration in a clearly dose-dependent manner despite rinsing. Neutralization of UV-induced Loss of Firmness Hydrating Properties in a Shower Gel Placebo % AquaCacteen Untreated Placebo 0.1% AC 0.5% AC 2.0 % AC ** Increase in firmness in % UV-radiation (1.0 MED) Day 14 Day 17 Increase in skin hydration in % * * ** Day 7 Day 14 * *p<0.05 versus untreated **p<0.05 versus untreated, placebo, and 0.1% AquaCacteen S-087a / Mibelle Biochemistry S-088 / Mibelle Biochemistry

8 Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs / Switzerland, Phone , info@mibellebiochemistry.com, AquaCacteen Soothes and hydrates women s and men s skin AquaCacteen Soothes and calms irritated skin Hydrates the skin, even in rinse-off formulation Protects and firms skin Applications Face care Body care Sun protection creams Bath and shower gels Men s care Marketing Benefits Available in an ECOCERT certified version Increases the organic percentage of your formulation 3 in 1: soothing hydrating firming Specially tested on men s skin Innovating for your success Mibelle Biochemistry designs and develops innovative, high-quality actives based on naturally derived compounds and profound scientific know-how. Inspired by nature Realized by science. The information contained in this publication is provided in good faith and is based on our current knowledge. No legally binding promise or warranty regarding the suitability of our products for any specific use is made. Any statements are offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification and do not relieve you from your obligation to comply with all applicable laws and regulations and to observe all third party intellectual property rights. Mibelle AG Biochemistry will not assume any expressed or implied liability in connection with any use of this information and disclaims any and all liability in connection with your product or its use. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without the prior written permission of Mibelle AG Biochemistry.