PoreAway Effective, matifying skin refiner

Transcription

1 PoreAway Effective, matifying skin refiner

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3 PoreAway Effective, matifying skin refiner A precious medicinal resin to fight dilated pores and matify the skin Based on mastic, an aromatic resin coming from the bark of a tree that grows on the Greek island of Chios, PoreAway tightens dilated pores making them invisible and purifies the skin. Mastic has been recognized since antiquity for its unique aroma and therapeutic properties. Mastic was notably used as a chewing gum to clean the teeth and freshen the breath thanks to its anti-microbial properties. It was also used in face creams to improve skin radiance probably thanks to its purifying and astringent effects. The application of mastic in modern cosmetics has been limited due to its stickiness and insolubility in water. Mibelle Biochemistry has developed a technique to make a water-soluble mastic preparation suitable for cosmetic applications. PoreAway, the resulting product, is easy to formulate and not sticky. Clinical studies conducted on Caucasian and Asian women with dilated pores and impure skin showed that PoreAway: tightens dilated pores refines the skin grain reduces imperfections such as comedones and microcysts reduces skin shine. Claim Ideas for PoreAway Visibly reduces the appearance of pores Fights shininess, blemishes and clogged pores Creates a smooth, matte finish Manages imperfections effectively for a skin purified all day Keeps skin clear and refined Inhibits 5α reductase I Applications Treatments for combination and /or oily skin Pore minimizing formulas Skin perfecting treatments Matifying formulas BB creams Formulating with PoreAway Recommended use level: 2 5 % Incorporation: For cold processes, dissolve PoreAway into the aqueous phase. In cold / hot processes, add during the cooling phase below 40 C. INCI / CTFA-Declaration Pistacia Lentiscus Gum / Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Glycerin (and) Alcohol (and) Aqua / Water Inhibition of 5α reductase I activity was found to be a principal mechanism of action. PoreAway can thus visibly improve the quality of the skin by refining its texture, reducing cutaneous imperfections and skin shine. August 2014

4 Mastic An endemic resin from the Greek island of Chios Mastic, the Gold of Chios since Antiquity Chios mastiha also called mastic is an aromatic resin produced by the lentisk tree that grows on the Greek island of Chios (Pistacia Lentiscus var. Chia). The name is derived from the Greek words μαστάζω = chew and μάσταξ = mouth. Mastic is excreted in the form of tears from the trunk and main branches through scratches on their surface. After its solidification which results in an ivory translucent colored resin, it is collected, washed and cleaned. Mastic Trees Weep only in Chios The mastic tree or lentisk is an evergreen shrub which grows on arid, rocky and poor soil. Lentisks are typical maqui-type vegetation found in Mediterranean countries. However, only the mastic trees of southern Chios give the mastiha resin when the bark is scratched. This is probably due to the soil and to the especially warm and dry weather conditions. This explains why mastic production in Chios is granted protected designation of origin (PDO). Mastic has been recognized since antiquity for its unique aroma and therapeutic properties. Due to its high price, mastic was only bought by wealthy people. Chios Mastic

5 Mastic A multi-purpose substance Medicinal, Pharmaceutical and Industrial Applications Mastic has been used since antiquity notably for its therapeutic properties. Mastic was the first natural chewing gum in the ancient world, used to clean the teeth and freshen the breath but also to prevent digestive disorders. Scientific studies have confirmed these historically recorded effects; chewing mastic improves oral hygiene by decreasing microbial plaque formation and eliminating bacterial growth inside the oral cavity. Besides, mastic chewing contributes to soothing the stomach. Due to its anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, mastic has also been used: in the preparation of ointments for skin disorders as well as in toothpaste and mouth wash for cleaning and disinfecting the oral cavity as a component of bandages, adhesive plasters and compresses for the protection and healing of wounds as well as dental fillings and tooth molds as a spice and a thickener in food and beverages as a perfume, perfume stabilizer and color stabilizer. Mastic for Skin Care In the 1 st century after Christ, Dioscorides, the renowned pharmacologist of antiquity, wrote that mastic promoted skin radiance when incorporated in face creams. Besides, he noted that mastic oil cleansed the face and gave it a healthy color. During the Roman Empire, upper class ladies used beauty creams containing mastic. During the Byzantine Empire, mastic was used to produce luxury scented soaps but was also reputed to provide protection from the sun s rays and was thus used in sun protection preparations as well.

6 PoreAway Mastic for cosmetic application Several Factors Cause Pore Dilatation Sebum is continuously synthesized by the sebaceous gland and secreted to the skin surface through the hair follicle pore. Together with sweat, it forms the protective hydrolipidic film. Pores may enlarge for several reasons: an excessive sebum production the obstruction of the sebaceous canal due to hyperkeratinisation a loss of skin elasticity. Dilated pores are one of the characteristics of oily and combination skins. However they also appear with time whatever the skin type because skin elasticity decreases with age causing the pores to stretch. Dilated pores are especially visible in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) and on the cheeks. Mastic, a Natural Solution to Treat Dilated Pores Mastic can attenuate the appearance of dilated pores and so, even skin grain by: purifying the skin thanks to its anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects tightening the pores thanks to its astringent effect. PoreAway, a Mastic Preparation for Cosmetic Application Mastic is extremely sticky and its low solubility in water is a challenge for cosmetic formulation as it is only soluble in alcohol and other organic solvents. Mibelle Biochemistry has developed a technique to make a water-soluble mastic preparation suitable for cosmetic applications. Mastic is dissolved into a mixture of ethanol and glycerin under controlled and gentle heating. Then it is encapsulated into liposomes. PoreAway, the resulting product is: liquid fully dispersible in water stable in emulsions easy to formulate.

7 PoreAway Study results Inhibition of 5α Reductase I Signs of impure skin, such as enlarged pores and acne, arise as a result of an increased production of sebum. The hormone dihydrotestosterone regulates the formation of sebum in the sebaceous gland. This hormone is produced from testosterone by the enzyme 5α reductase type I, the isoform of the enzyme which predominates in the sebaceous gland and is therefore the target in the therapy of impure skin. In the following study, PoreAway was tested for its inhibitory effect on 5α reductase I activity. The enzyme for this test was isolated from transfected human embryonic kidney cells (HEK I). The results showed a clear concentration dependent inhibition of 5α reductase activity with an IC 50 value of 274 µg /ml. Therefore, one can conclude that PoreAway helps to reduce sebum production in skin. Pore Refining Effect 20 Caucasian women aged from 24 to 61 (mean: 42.8) with enlarged pores, applied a cream containing 2 % PoreAway or the corresponding placebo twice daily for 28 days to their faces. Silflo silicon imprints from an area with enlarged pores were recorded before and after treatment. Pore refinement was determined by measuring the roughness of the skin resulting from the dilatation of the pores (r z -value, PRIMOS system phase-shifting rapid in vivo measurement of skin). Results showed that PoreAway significantly refined pores: by more than 8 %* after 14 days by almost 15 %** after 28 days. **p<0.05 versus initial conditions **p<0.05 versus initial conditions and placebo After 28 days of treatment with PoreAway, the pore refining effect was observed in 95 % of the volunteers. Inhibition of 5α Reductase I Pore Refinement Placebo 2% PoreAway % inhibition 5 reductase I IC50: μg/ml Concentration (μg/ml) Pore refinement compared to initial conditions in % After 14 days After 28 days **p<0.05 versus initial conditions **p<0.05 versus initial conditions and placebo * * ** S-508 / Mibelle Biochemistry S-326 / Mibelle Biochemistry

8 PoreAway Study results Pore Size Reduction In the same study, the total pore area was also determined by further calculations of the PRIMOS results. The datasets were filtered to separate point-shaped structures of extreme depth (pores) from the ground structure. After 28 days of treatment with PoreAway, a reduction of the total pore area was observed in 75 % of the volunteers. Reduction of Total Pore Area Reduction of Pore Size 8 Decrease of the pore area after 28 days compared to initial conditions in % * Before 0 Placebo 2% PoreAway *p<0.05 versus initial conditions After 28 days S-326 / Mibelle Biochemistry S-326 / Mibelle Biochemistry

9 Anti-Comedogenic Effect The anti-comedogenic and purifying effect of PoreAway was evaluated in a double blind study performed in Bangkok on acne-prone skin volunteers. 44 Thai women aged from 30 to 52 with retentional lesions (blackheads and microcysts) on their faces, were selected. The volunteers were separated into 2 groups. To the faces of one group, a 2 % PoreAway emulsion was applied twice daily for 28 days. The same treatment was carried out on the second group using the corresponding placebo. The comedones (also called blackheads) and microcysts on the face of the volunteers were counted by a dermatologist before and after 28 days of treatment with the test products. Results showed that PoreAway significantly reduced both types of retentional lesions after 28 days of treatment: Blackheads were reduced by almost 40 %* whereas microcysts were reduced by almost 30 %*. *compared to initial conditions Decrease in Retentional Lesions Placebo 2% PoreAway 15 Evolution of retentional lesions compared to initial conditions in % Blackheads Microcysts ** 45 * *** ***p=0.003 versus initial conditions ***p<0.001 versus initial conditions ***p=0.004 versus placebo S-350 / Mibelle Biochemistry

10 PoreAway Study results Visible Reduction of Shininess In the same study, the shiny aspect of the skin of the volunteers of the two groups was scored visually by trained assessors before and at the end of the treatment. A relative reduction of shininess was observed for 32 % of the volunteers treated with PoreAway whereas the volunteers treated with the placebo didn t show any visible net reduction in shininess. PoreAway can thus visibly eliminate shininess and so, has a matifying effect. Perception of the Efficacy by Self-Evaluation At the end of the study, the volunteers were asked, using a questionnaire, to tell whether they perceived improvements of specific criteria as well as a general improvement. Results showed that, after 28 days of treatment with PoreAway: 95 % of volunteers found their skin less oily and less shiny 72 % of volunteers found their skin smoother 73 % of volunteers found their skin suppler. Finally, 95 % of volunteers noticed a general improvement of their skin after 28 days of treatment with PoreAway. Decrease in Cutaneous Shininess Perception of an Improved Skin Quality 2% PoreAway Placebo 2% PoreAway Suppler Less shiny 20 0 Smoother Relative % of net volunteers with a visible reduction in shininess compared to placebo Less oily S-350 / Mibelle Biochemistry S-350 / Mibelle Biochemistry

11 Visible Reduction of Imperfections and Shininess In addition, macrophotographs were taken before and after the treatment. Analysis of the pictures of the volunteers treated with the 2 % PoreAway emulsion showed a visible reduction of imperfections as well as of the shininess of the skin. Improvement of Acne-Prone Skins Before After S-350 / Mibelle Biochemistry

12 Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0) , PoreAway Effective, matifying skin refiner Claim Ideas for PoreAway Visibly reduces the appearance of pores Fights shininess, blemishes and clogged pores Creates a smooth, matte finish Manages imperfections effectively for a skin purified all day Keeps skin clear and refined Inhibits 5α reductase I Applications Treatments for combination and/or oily skin Pore minimizing formulas Skin perfecting treatments Matifying formulas BB creams Marketing Benefits A new, very special and endemic source from the Mediterranean All in one reduces pore size and shine, refines skin texture and creates a smooth matte finish 100 % natural origin Innovating for your success Mibelle Biochemistry designs and develops innovative, high-quality actives based on naturally derived compounds and profound scientific know-how. Inspired by nature Realized by science. The information contained in this publication is provided in good faith and is based on our current knowledge. No legally binding promise or warranty regarding the suitability of our products for any specific use is made. Claim ideas are offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification. Mibelle Biochemistry will not assume any expressed or implied liability in connection with any use of this information.