World Wrap. Made in China from cheap to luxury! - Though

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4 CONTENT Vol. 1 ISSUE 1 JUNE 2016 Market Analysis Asia, the nerve centre for Denim Fabric Oversupply dampening price levels - The entire world produces approximately 7.5 billion metres of denim fabric from 500 units, and the general expectation is that it will go up to 10.5 billion yards by 2021, which translates to around US $ 64 billion worth of jeans... p8 14 Cover Story Denimsandjeans.com set to conquer Vietnam - After establishing denimsandjeans.com shows in Bangladesh, as a must visit event for the denim industry with participation from around the world, organizers of the event are now all set to host the first ever denim show in Vietnam... World Wrap Made in China from cheap to luxury! - Though China s growing appetite and demand for international luxury is known globally, but what is often overlooked is the fact that many Chinese brands are taking advantage of the country s advanced manufacturing sector by balancing high production standards with relatively low costs... p34 40 Tech Management Industrial Engineering (IE) Concepts Retraced - There is never enough being said about Industrial Engineering (IE), especially in the garment manufacturing domain... FFT Trends Resurrect The Denim - Trending this season, the classic and traditional denim with new intriguing, attractive and young framing details give this old classic a new look... p46 AO Series Decoding the garment manufacturing hub of Vietnam - The recently concluded TPP agreement, with Vietnam as signatory, only adds to the other inherent strengths that the country has in apparel manufacturing from disciplined workforce to political stability... p30 38 Vietnam & Beyond Vietnam zooms past China as top' manufacturing location - A recent report released by the Korea Trade-Investment Promotion Agency (KOTRA) suggests that Vietnam has topped the list of mostpreferred manufacturing locations by companies worldwide... 4 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

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6 FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF s DESK It gives me great pleasure to present Apparel Online to the Vietnamese garment industry After our successful ventures, first in India and then Bangladesh, it was a logical choice for us to launch our magazine in Vietnam. All these three countries are great apparel sourcing destinations to the world and Apparel Online wishes to provide an honest, sincere and accurate information source to the entire supply chain partners in the textile industry. It took us nearly 10 years to make a mark in India as a credible magazine, read and appreciated by both industry (exporters and buyers) and policy makers for its analytical content, while it took only 4 years to achieve the same status in Bangladesh. I am sure that it will require even lesser time to be the top read and used magazine in Vietnam, because Apparel Online is an already established and proven platform for industry players to express their views and share opinions on variety of subjects for a smooth and transparent business environment. Right from discussing the sourcing strategies of brands and retailers, and their social and environment concerns to price points at which they buy and sell to talking about the benchmark practices followed by manufacturers and their understanding of the social and environmental compliances, we talk about everything that has a bearing on global trade to facilitate business to everyone s benefit! Each manufacturing destination has its own strength, creating niches of expertise. While India is famous for its small quantities value-added products, Bangladesh is known for its trousers and shirts in large quantities, and Vietnam has earned reputation for its excellence in structured and outerwear products. Though each country is expanding their product categories, and while Bangladesh is looking at lingerie and leather products, Vietnam has its eyes set on the denim segment, which is yet to be fully exploited to its potential. This is the reason for me choosing denim as the key theme for the first issue, analysing the potential of the denim market, highlighting some innovations with global players in denim fabric, key trends for S/S 17 and also strengths of various Asian countries in denim fabric to coincide with the denim show, the perfect launch pad for our magazine Apparel Online. Interviews of manufacturers and buyers are regular features. Technology pages will help companies to run their factories more efficiently and news from around the world specific to the trade will help to keep the industry updated. We invite all readers to share with us their views of the magazine and also what they would like to read in future editions. You can also visit us at Welcome to the platform of Apparel Online! EDITORIAL TEAM EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR COPY EDITOR ASST. COPY EDITOR CREATIVE TEAM PHOTO EDITOR OPERATION DIRECTOR PUBLISHER & MANAGING DIRECTOR Deepak Mohindra Ila Saxena Veereshwar Sobti Sahil Sehgal Raj Kumar Chahal Peeush Jauhari Satyapal Bisht Deepak Panwar Himanshu Kumar Mayank Mohindra Renu Mohindra HEAD OFFICE Apparel Resources Private Limited B-32, South Extension-1, New Delhi (India) Phone: contact@apparelresources.com; editor@apparelresources.com Web associate: SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRY subscribe@ apparelresources.com ADVERTISEMENT ENQUIRY rani@ apparelresources.com GENERAL ENQUIRY contact@ apparelresources.com 6 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

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8 MARKET ANALYSIS Asia, the nerve centre for Denim Fabric Oversupply dampening price levels The entire world produces approximately 7.5 billion metres of denim fabric from 500 units, and the general expectation is that it will go up to 10.5 billion yards by 2021, which translates to around US $ 64 billion worth of jeans. Although developed regions such as the United States and the Europe are the major consumers, Asia- Pacific is forecast to emerge as the fastest growing market with a CAGR of 9.4 per cent over the analysis period. Feeding this extremely creative denim market, with a wide choice of fabrics, are five key countries China, Pakistan, India, Turkey, and now Bangladesh. 8 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

9 MARKET ANALYSIS The world trade in denim fabric averages 6,70,000 tonnes per year, while China is the major exporter of denim; the second largest exporter being Pakistan, followed by Turkey, India, and the United States. A few decades ago US was the largest producer of denim, but now Asian countries have edged it aside. The key success factors for the denim industry growth in the five Asian countries of China, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Turkey are different, but equally important. While cotton availability has propelled the Chinese and Indian industry, preferential market access and low wages have been the biggest factors for the growth of Bangladesh along with huge investments in large infrastructure. Significantly, though Italy still controls the design segment, but being too expensive, Turkey has emerged as one of the influential producers of denim fabrics due to its innovation and R&D on finishes and washes; proximity to European markets too has played a major role in the success of Turkey. In the selection of denim fabric for different market segments, handle, finish and price are the major differentiating factors. By and large, denim fabric is a very standard product made from cotton fibres having 2/1 right hand twill, indigo dyed warp and grey weft which weighs between GSM, the differentiation comes from weaving and washing techniques. Product innovation, a key to denim popularity is centred towards use of ring spun/fancy/specialty yarns and imparting value adding finishes. Of course, innovation always fetches a higher premium, which is why most denim fabric manufacturers are making efforts to innovate. The low-end denim fabrics are made from coarse open end yarns 6s-10s Ne count range, the mid denim fabrics use softer and finer fibres having basic finishes. The high-end fabric apart from using softer, finer fibres are distinguished by use of additional specialized yarns like tencel, model, lycra, etc. and having specialized finishes and coating line. The premium segment is innovation all the way, with unique designer inputs and availability in small niche quantities. The high-end denim also use ring spun yarns rather than openend yarns giving rich appeal. On a global level, Turkey is known for its premium products; while Bangladesh and Pakistan are positioned for their value products, and India is positioned in mid to premium segment. China has traditionally been known for large volumes of basic fabric. China cutting production of denim fabric China is the dominant player of denim and its growth is going to stagnate in the time to come. As of now, China manufactures close to 2.0 to 2.5 billion metres of denim annually, which is ESSENTIALS Vietnam last year exported 19 million denim jeans to the US and 6 million jeans to EU, whereas Bangladesh exported 68 million and 178 million pieces, respectively; a whopping four times more. In comparison, India exported just 10.4 million jeans between the US and EU last year. much below the figure of In a well thought-out and deliberate shift, the country has been cutting down on their production of denim fabric, preferring to concentrate on highend textiles and jeans production, as they are strategically moving up the value chain. One of the major reasons, besides rising cost of production due to increasing wages and infrastructure cost, and which has diverted China away from denim fabric is the major environment issues that have hit the Chinese industry in the past few years. Brands like Armani, Calvin Klein, Marks & Spencer and Zara are being linked to devastating water pollution in the Chinese textile industry. Though the Chinese still rule the basic market with huge capacities in rope dyeing at competitive rates, the country is fast losing out on the denim market, despite capacities. Guangdong city is the country s largest denim producer and accounts for 45 per cent of 1.20 billion metres of the total production and Xintang is famous as the jeans capital of the world, producing 260 million pairs of jeans a year, equivalent to 40 per cent of jeans sold in US. Turkey taking advantage of proximity for fashion There are around five major fully integrated factories in Turkey which supply denim fabric to all major international brands. It is estimated that Turkey s total denim production Denim Jeans imports by EU countries from top 8 exporting nations in 2015 Volume in million pieces Value in million US $ Denim Jeans imports by US from top 8 exports and manufacturing destinations 2015 Volume in million pieces Value in million US $ Bangladesh China Turkey Mexico Pakistan Bangladesh China Pakistan India Vietnam Vietnam Sri Lanka Sri Lanka India Mexico Turkey EU imported 540 mn denim jeans in the year 2015 at a total value of US $ 5.3 bn US imported 480 mn denim jeans in the year 2015 at a total value of US $ 3.7 bn JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 9

10 MARKET ANALYSIS TO ADVERTISE Contact Rani Mahendru (512) GOING TO A GOOD EVENT? Send your industry gossip, photos and news to isaxena@apparelresources.com capacity is around million metres annually, accounting for 9 per cent of the world market share, while in fabric exports, the country s share is 5 per cent. The total exports of denim textile and apparel exports are worth US $ 4 billion. Turkey has strategically positioned itself as a high-end premium supplier of denim fabric and denim garments. The big five of Turkey ISKO, Calik Denim, Orta Anadolu, Bossa and Kipas are important players in the development of good quality fabrics and many highend brands are currently doing bulk productions in the country. The capability to do smaller runs in washes is defined by the technology used for dyeing, and rope dyeing is the traditional method of volume dyeing, commonly used in China; it is not possible to do smaller runs with rope dyeing. Turkey has bigger capacities in slasher dyeing which is associated with smaller runs and greater flexibility to allow experiment with washes, aiding more innovation. Brands want the products really fast and as of today, Turkey is capable to supply jeans in 2-3 weeks provided fabric is in stock. There are few companies who undertake to do Just in Time orders, also for Europe as well as VMI (Vendor Managed Inventory) for few brands. However, the constraint of higher garment prices makes it unaffordable sometimes for some brands. While you can get a bulk of basic jeans in China and Bangladesh ESSENTIALS Bangladesh is a cheaper production destination by 22% against Vietnam. While the UVR of Vietnam is much higher at US $ 8.16 as against US $ 6.30 from Bangladesh, while the Indian UVR is higher at US $ China s UVR is US $ 7.30 and Turkey has the highest UVR of US $ for as low as US $ 4, Turkey jeans prices can hike from US $ 10 and above depending on quality and lead time. Denim, a growth segment for Pakistan textile industry Pakistan has evolved as a key denim player and its products are recently being compared to those coming from Turkey on quality and wash parameters, but at much lower cost; primarily it is due to Pakistan being a major cotton production country. There are about 40 major players in the denim industry of Pakistan. Some of them, like Artistic Fabric Mills, Pak Denim Limited, Al-Ameen Denim Mills Limited, SM Denim Mills Ltd., Denim International, Classic Denim, Rajby Industries, Soorty, etc. are producing about 50 million square metres of finished denim fabrics per month. All companies are using the rope dyeing technique; and SM Denim is the first and only manufacturer of denim fabric using slasher technology in the country. International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) has recently stated that Pakistan is the second largest exporter of denim in the world after China. Export of cotton denim fabrics from Pakistan increased from 320 million square metres, worth US $ 334 million in to 333 million square metres worth US $ 458 million in , showing an increase of 18.5 per cent in terms of value. India positions itself as second largest producer of denim fabric India will continue to grow not only on its strength of cotton and 28 organized mills, but also because of its hundreds of small mills in the unorganised segment. The denim industry has been growing at a consistent rate of per cent over the last decade and is expected to grow at similar compounded rates over the next several years. With companies like Arvind, Malwa, KG Denim, Bhaskar, and Nandan constantly upgrading; the current installed denim fabric capacity in the country is about 1,100 million metres per annum. The big mills in India have been using rope dyeing technology, while the recent investments are now in slasher technology, placing India at an enviable position to offer both big and small runs. India today has a competitive edge in denim fabric manufacturing due to availability of raw cotton and the right technology and technical expertise. The typical positioning of India in denim fabrics has made it to face competition at both extreme ends. In value products, it faces competition from Bangladesh and Pakistan where it is really challenging to match the price points offered by the manufacturers in these countries. In premium and designer category, it faces stiff competition from Turkey. DENIM COMPANIES STRENGTH Bangladesh Company Production capacity - Million Metres/ Annum Envoy Textiles 44 Ha-Meem Group 42 Partex Denim 41.5 Nice Denim Mills Ltd. 40 Jamuna Denims Ltd. 25 Pacific Denims Ltd. 22 Desh Denim Mills Ltd Hamid Fabrics 21 Nassa-Taipei Denims Ltd. 20 Shasha Denim 20 India Company Production capacity - Million Metres/ Annum Arvind Ltd. 120 Aarve Denims & Export Ltd. 85 Nandan Exim 70 Kanchan Group 60 Etco Denims Pvt. Ltd. 50 Raymond Uco Denim Ltd. 47 Bhaskar Industries Ltd. 42 Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills Ltd. 40 Shri Lakshmi Cotsyn Ltd. 40 Oswal Denims 40 Pakistan Company Production capacity - Million Metres/ Annum Artistic Milliners 48 Siddiqsons Denim Mills Ltd. 40 Artistic Fabric Mill Ltd. 40 Soorty Textiles 39 Hantex Textile Mill 38 Kassim Textile Mills Ltd. 36 Naveena Export Ltd. 33 Azgard Nine Ltd. 32 Artistic Denim 31 Mekotex 27 China Company Weiqiao Textile Company Limited Production capacity - Million Metres/ Annum 73 Xingtai Blue Diamond 40 Dyeing and Weaving Co.Ltd. Haining Bafang Weaving 25 Co. Ltd. Central Denim 24.1 Prosperity Textile (HK) Ltd Ye Tai Weaving Factory NA Ltd. China Denim NA Lanvan NA Mou Fung Ltd NA Black Pony NA 10 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

11 MARKET ANALYSIS Nearly 75 per cent of the denim fabrics produced in India is used domestically, while the remaining is being exported to countries like Bangladesh, Turkey, South America and several African countries; a mere 5 per cent of total world share in exports. Bangladesh, an emerging force in denim Over the last decade, Bangladesh has emerged as a force in both denim garment and fabric manufacturing. About 5 years ago the total denim fabric capacity of the country was just around 180 million metres per annum, while today according to latest estimates it is over 350 million metres per annum, increasing almost two-fold in the capacity. Yet, according to research agency BRAC EPL Research, shortfalls in denim requirement of 40 per cent still remains and this shortfall is being met by mills mostly in China, India and Pakistan. The country has about 20 very good mills including names like Beximco, Shasha, Partex, Nassa, Jamuna, Square Denim, which are producing denim at par to China, Pakistan and India in terms of quality as now every mill is investing hugely on state-of-theart imported machineries especially on the weaving and processing side. Interestingly, the 20 big companies into the business of denim fabrics today started their productions between 2004 and The emerging vertical integration in denim segment has also supported the growth of Bangladesh along the value chain. In fact, now every mill is investing hugely on state-of-theart imported machineries, especially on processing side allowing huge variation in terms of new weaves and finishes. Majorly the companies are selling their denim fabric locally or for captive consumption. In the last decade, Bangladesh has grown both in business share and new product diversification rapidly, producing a lot of sustainable products in denim. Partex Denim has recently introduced selvedge denim, which is a clear indication that Bangladesh is now at par to any denim producer in the world. ESSENTIALS Bangladesh is exporting US $ 1.3 billion worth of denim to EU compared to only US $ 59 million worth of denim by Vietnam Even in the exports to the US, Bangladesh scores over Vietnam by three-and-ahalf time by value which is US $ 450 million worth of denim jeans against only US $ 155 million by Vietnam. Total exports from Bangladesh to four major markets US, EU (25 nations), Canada and Japan is worth US $ 2.2 billion whereas Vietnam does only half a billion Lot of catching up to be done by Vietnam. YARN INNOVATIONS Denims are usually made with coarse rotor spun yarns in counts range of 7-10 Ne; however premium products now feature ring spun yarns (in coarse & fine count) imparting aesthetic appeal to the products. Stretch characteristics are imparted by blending spandex and Elastane fibre while manufacturing denim yarns. Further innovations at yarn stage include use of slub yarns and specialty fibres to improve aesthetic appeal, feel, comfort and durability of the fabric. Among the most popular innovations at the yarn stage today is stretch slub twill, with 10% stretch for recovery and optimizing stretch. Also picking up is space-dyed warp yarn which is indigo fades. With sustainability a major thrust, recycled cotton, organic denims made from organic cotton and polyester yarn denims made from recycled pet bottles are also prevalent these days. FABRIC INNOVATIONS At fabric stage, important is weaving and coatings; and special colour or resin additions are applied to provide better and different look after wash. Weave variations traditional standard denim with right/left hand twill weave has paved way for innovative designs like Chambray, Broken Twill, Zigzag Twill, Cord, Herringbone Twill and fancy designs. Raw denim with strong shape retention and tailor design ability is a great draw this season. Strip denims are manufactured by using weave and colour effect in either warp or weft direction. More recently selvedge denim has become immensely popular. In contrast to open selvedge produced on shuttleless looms, selvedge denims with clean conventional selvedge are produced on conventional shuttle looms (reed space 30 inches). Jeans made from selvedge denim show a clean selvedge edge at the inside of the out seam. Turkish denim company ISKO, continues to propel the market forward by utilizing innovative fabrics that incorporate nanotechnology. The company behind the famous, trademarked jegging, ISKO, is also the creator of Reform Stretch fabrics that possesses the magical ability to make women appear a size smaller! Additionally, ISKO created the revolutionary Future Face fabric, a cross between woven denim and knit, which provides the comfort similar to that of sweatpants. Diesel has featured Future Face in its Jogg Jeans line, which has proved to be its fastest selling line ever. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 11

12 MARKET ANALYSIS CHANGING COMPLEXION OF DENIM WEAR MARKET Premium segment losing steam, innovations missing, China & India the emerging markets US TAKES A BEATING IN JEANS MARKET FROM SUBSTITUTES Ownership of denim jeans reached a peak in due to the premium denim trend propelled by celebrity endorsements and the robust market; however with recession hitting first the US and now EU markets, the spending power of an average consumer has declined considerably, leading the retailers and brands to restore to costcutting measures (thinner fabrics, changes in fibre content, etc.) to meet consumer pockets, resulting in significant performance issues and dissatisfaction among consumers. Denim consumption is also largely influenced by celebrity styles Today there has been a deficit of new ideas to keep the market going, which has also resulted in a relative slowdown in growth for the traditional markets. Celebrity fashion in denim has got stuck in the distressed mode and no fresh cult makeover for jeans has been seen in a long time; old ideas are being rehashed in the name of fashion, arresting the momentum of growth. For revival of interest in the denim market a strong fashion icon in denim is the need, supported by an improvement in the buying power of the consumer. In the meanwhile, another significant development that has hit the denim market is the growing affiliation for other bottom options. Consumers are now looking more towards active wear/sports inspired clothing for comfort dressing, which was previously the niche of denim. In the recently concluded Back-to-School season, there was a noticeable shift from jeans to leggings and tights among girls. VF Corp, a leader in the denim wear market which has brands like Lee, Wrangler, 7 For All Mankind and Rock & Republic under its umbrella, noted the decline due to continued challenges in the US mid-tier channel and the ongoing unfavourable women s denim trend. Following the trend closely, Marshal Cohen, Chief Industry Analyst of The NPD Group, feels that the athleisure love affair could have a lasting effect. Trends today don t come and go, they come and linger. So if the consumer has migrated away from denim, it s going to be very hard to win them back, he predicts. In summers, good old casual jeans are threatened by cargo shorts, which are now a staple for all age groups and genders. EUROPE REGISTERING GROWTH IN DENIM: SHIFTS FROM PREMIUM TO MASS MARKET; INCREASES VOLUMES In Europe, which was always a more high-end market, the focus of jeans has shifted from premium to mass fashion, as consumers struggle to make ends meet, resulting in a healthy recovery for European denim imports in 2013, after a major dip in According to a recent study European imports of denim in 2013 conducted by Jean-François Limantour and published by Texworld, EU denim imports registered growth of 4.4% in value and 8.6% in volume in 2013 from the top 10 suppliers, accounting for 497 million pairs. Turkey, Bangladesh and China in almost equal shares, with Bangladesh holding 21%, account for 62% of total imports. While Turkey is feeding the premium market with average price at 13.98, Bangladesh and China are dominating the mass market with average prices of 5.50 and 4.97, respectively. Interestingly, in 2013 the average price of imported jeans in the EU dropped from 7.78 in 2012 to 7.48, a decrease of 3.9%. This clearly signifies the increase in more value for money merchandise. 12 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

13 MARKET ANALYSIS The phenomenal growth of the denim wear market over the years is attributed to the fact that denim jeans have become a necessity and wardrobe staple for many across the world, as it has now transcended the boundaries of casual attire and can be worn on social and even official occasions. Over the years, denim has also revealed its capability to overcome age and gender barriers. However, lately it is seeing a slowdown in both the traditional markets of the US and EU, which currently account for 27% of world denim market, more so in the US due to multiple reasons. At the same time a recent research report by Global Information Inc predicts that future growth in the denim wear market will come not from the traditional markets, but from Asian markets, like India and China. The four markets of US, EU (25 countries), Canada and Japan together imported 1560 million pieces in year (540 million pieces EU million pieces US million pieces Japan million pieces Canada) GLOBAL GROWTH WILL COME FROM CHINA AND INDIA Denim is a favourite topic for market research and many global agencies have predicted a bright future for the category on a global platform. According to the Global Lifestyle Monitor survey, the average number of denim garments owned per global consumer increased nearly 20% in last five years, with the most growth in jeans and skirts. With the traditional markets slowing down, new pockets of retail growth are emerging. CBRE Global Research & Consulting, a major retail research firm predicts that the Asia-Pacific region will account for just under half of the world s retail sales in 2016, and amongst the most popular products would be denim wear, predominantly jeans. Even though, the region is among the latest to join the denim craze, the market is fast growing and in India alone the domestic market of denim products is growing at 15% CAGR. China is another growth market and the upswing in the denim business in China has caused many brands to reinterpret their designs, and marketing strategies as the quintessentially American apparel item takes on a whole new life. Despite movement, industry watchers caution that the Chinese have not yet grasped the West s obsession with denim and are looking for value for money products. The general perception is that while Chinese shoppers have no problem paying thousands for a new handbag, they don t know why anyone would pay a premium for workwear items like denim. Despite the rider, experts share that the concept of dressing in China has changed towards less formal looks and this will bring a rise in the sales of denim and casualwear. Of course, China has many popular local brands and the competition for international brands is going to be cut throat. Another emerging region with great potential for growth is Africa. According to a recent Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU) report entitled Africa: Open for Business, real GDP growth for Sub- Saharan countries Angola, Kenya, Nigeria and South Africa was forecasted to hit 5% a year from 2013 to A booming middle class of brand conscious and aspirational consumers who show their status through an outward expression of their wealth through the brands that they consume, is projected to be the key driver for growth in this region. According to EIU, the growth in the denim market could be around 3-4% over the next five years. Other potential growth regions are Middle East, Eastern Europe and Latin America, which offer hope for value growth. In terms of proximity, Turkey is to the EU (US $ 1100 million at US% UVR) what Mexico is to the US (US $ 950 million at US $ 8.68 UVR). Matching them in value and volume are China and Bangladesh in both the continents JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 13

14 COVER STORY THE LATEST NEWS For the latest news on apparel and textile, make sure that you visit HAVE YOUR SAY Write to Apparel Resources, B-32, South Extension-1, New Delhi (110049), India or Denimsandjeans.com Set to conquer Vietnam After establishing denimsandjeans.com shows in Bangladesh, as a must visit event for the denim industry with participation from around the world, organizers of the event are now all set to host the first ever denim show in Vietnam. The two-day denimsandjeans.com Vietnam show, to be held at Gem Centre, Ho Chi Minh City, shall bring some of the most reputed local and international mills and supply chain partners together under one roof. Denim is a growing segment of apparel sourced from Vietnam and is likely to witness significant growth in coming years, the organizer said. The country exported around 20 million pieces of denim apparel to the US market last year at an average price of US $ 8.1 per unit, which is expected to grow substantially in the near future. Vietnam is a rising apparel exporting country. It is already the fourth largest exporter of apparel after China, Bangladesh and Hong Kong. With the country likely to benefit from TPP and Free Trade Agreements with EU, once they are signed, it is already the focus of many apparel companies around the world. The country is very optimistic about its potential of growth in the coming years. The event will also host seminar on Blues Revolution A seminar titled Blues Revolution will be hosted by denim connoisseur Giovanni Petrin, who is one of the most reputed and globally recognized denim washing specialists from Italy. Petrin will talk about the denim trends in the recent years, new technologies in productions, eco-finishing, research and innovation, at the seminar. This will certainly provide an opportunity to visitors to meet a number of experts and connoisseurs of denim from around the world besides checking out latest denim collections from exhibitors. In addition to this, couple of more interesting seminars and panel discussions are set to take place at the denimsandjeans.com Vietnam show. The objective of this first-ever event is to bring the international mills, top international brands, retailers, local vendors and supply chain partners together at the same platform. Over 30 exhibitors including local as well as international mills from different regions of the world will target the immense potential of Vietnamese apparel industry through the expo, also giving an opportunity to the Vietnam industry to see what the world has to offer in this segment, says Sandeep Agarwal, the brain behind Denimsandjeans.com. Following pages feature reviews of some of the participating companies and their products Sau khi tổ chức các chương trình triển lãm denimsandjeans.com tại Bangladesh, là một sự kiện phải đến của ngành công nghiệp vải denim cùng sự tham gia của nhiều người trên khắp thế giới, các nhà tổ chức của sự kiện hiện đã sẵn sàng tổ chức chương trình triển lãm vải denim đầu tiên tại Việt Nam. Chương trình triển lãm denimsandjeans.com Vietnam sẽ được tổ chức tại Gem Centre, Tp.HCM trong hai ngày, và sẽ đưa một số đơn vị địa phương cũng như quốc tế có uy tín nhất đến với nhau tại cùng một địa điểm. Người tổ chức cho biết vải denim là phân khúc quần áo đang phát triển được lấy từ Việt Nam và gần như chứng kiến sự phát triển đáng kể trong những năm tới. Quốc gia này đã xuất khẩu khoảng 20 triệu chiếc quần áo vải denim sang thị trường Mỹ vào năm ngoái với mức giá bình quân 8.1$/ chiếc. Mức giá này được dự đoán sẽ tăng mạnh trong tương lai gần. Việt Nam là một quốc gia xuất khẩu quần áo đang phát triển. Đất nước này đã là nhà xuất khẩu quần áo lớn thứ 4 sau Trung Quốc, Bangladesh và Hồng Kông. Với một quốc gia có thể hưởng lợi từ TPP và các hiệp định THƯƠNG MẠI TỰ DO với châu Âu, một khi các hiệp định này được ký có nghĩa là quốc gia này đã trở thành tâm điểm của nhiều công ty sản xuất quần áo trên khắp thế giới. Quốc gia này rất lạc quan về tiềm năng phát triển trong những năm sắp tới. Sự kiện cũng sẽ đăng cai hội nghị chuyên đề về cuộc Cách mạng Xanh da trời Một hội nghị chuyên đề với chủ đề Cách mạng Xanh da trời sẽ được chủ trì bởi chuyên gia về vải denim Giovanni Petrin. Ông là một trong những chuyên gia rửa vải denim nổi tiếng nhất và được công nhận trên toàn cầu, đến từ nước Ý. Petrin sẽ thảo luận về xu hướng vải denim trong những năm gần đây, các công nghệ mới trong sản xuất, hoàn thiện sinh học, nghiên cứu và cách tân tại hội nghị chuyên đề này. Hội nghị này chắc chắn sẽ là cơ hội để các khách tham quan gặp gỡ rất nhiều chuyên gia và những người am hiểu về vải denim trên khắp thế giới ngoài việc tìm hiểu các bộ sưu tập vải denim mới nhất từ các nhà triển lãm. Ngoài ra, còn có một vài hội nghị chuyên đề cũng như hội thảo theo nhóm thú vị khác sẽ diễn ra tại chương trình triển lãm denimsandjeans.com Vietnam. Sandeep Agarwal, bộ não đằng sau Denimsandjeans.com, kết luận: Mục tiêu của sự kiện đầu tiên này là đưa các đơn vị quốc tế, các thương hiệu quốc tế hàng đầu, các nhà bán lẻ, nhà cung cấp địa phương cũng như các đối tác chuỗi cung ứng đến với nhau trên cùng một nền tảng. Hơn 30 nhà triển lãm bao gồm các đơn vị địa phương cũng như quốc tế đến từ các khu vực khác nhau trên thế giới sẽ tập trung vào tiềm năng to lớn của ngành công nghiệp may mặc Việt Nam thông qua buổi triển lãm, cũng là tạo cơ hội để ngành công nghiệp Việt Nam nhìn nhận được những gì mà thế giới cần phải cung cấp trong phân khúc này. Các trang sau đây có chứa thông tin đánh giá về một số công ty tham gia và các sản phẩm của họ 14 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

15 COVER STORY Amber Denim, Bangladesh Vietnam market & event expectations The opportunities are huge here in Vietnam, thanks to the cheaper manpower and ample availability of power. We want to exploit the potentials of the country, which is currently importing fabrics from China, Brazil and Turkey for the American retail brands. At this inaugural event, we look forward to interact with American and European buyers alongside the local garment makers to explore business avenues. Product showcase We will exhibit our A/W 17 collection, especially the knitted denim, coated super stretch denim, blended yarn-made denim and fabrics made from sustainable materials. We have a lot of products with plenty of variations, which are also competitively priced. Year 2016 so far It has been awesome so far! Our total capacity is already overbooked and the management is now thinking to expand facilities to produce high-end denims. Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Tại Việt Nam có rất nhiều cơ hội, nhờ nguồn nhân lực rẻ hơn và lại dồi dào. Chúng tôi muốn khai thác các tiềm năng của quốc gia này, vốn hiện đang nhập khẩu vải từ Trung Quốc, Brazil và Thổ Nhĩ Kỳ để cung cấp cho các thương hiệu bán lẻ của Mỹ. Trong sự kiện khai mạc lần này, chúng tôi mong muốn được tiếp xúc với người mua ở Mỹ và châu Âu cùng với các nhà sản xuất hàng may mặc địa phương để khám phá các con đường kinh doanh. Trưng bày sản phẩm Chúng tôi sẽ trưng bày bộ sưu tập A/W 17 của chúng tôi, đặc biệt là vải denim dệt kim, vải denim siêu co giãn có lớp phủ, vải denim sợi pha và vải làm từ các chất liệu bền vững. Chúng tôi có rất nhiều sản phẩm với nhiều biến thể khác nhau và cũng được bán với mức giá cạnh tranh. Năm 2016 cho đến nay Cho đến nay, mọi việc đều rất tuyệt vời! Tổng năng suất của chúng tôi đã vượt mức dự đoán và ban quản lý hiện đang tìm cách mở rộng các phương tiện để sản xuất các sản phẩm vải denim cao cấp. Malwa Denim, India Vietnam market & event expectations Vietnam is a big market for denim fabric because many US, Chinese and Japanese brands are sourcing from Vietnam owing to the duty-free advantage. Through this event we look forward to meeting up with relevant garment manufacturers and international buyers besides doing conversion in Vietnam along with surrounding countries. Product showcase The A/W 2017 collections that would be innovative in terms of weaves, blends and finishes. The year 2016 so far So far, so good! Expansion might happen next year depending on the 2016 s performance. Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Việt Nam là một thị trường vải denim lớn vì nhiều thương hiệu Mỹ, Trung Quốc và Nhật Bản đang sản xuất tại Việt Nam nhờ lợi thế miễn thuế. Từ sự kiện này, chúng tôi mong muốn được gặp gỡ các nhà sản xuất hàng may mặc liên quan và người mua quốc tế bên cạnh việc chuyển sang Việt Nam cùng với các quốc gia phụ cận. Trưng bày sản phẩm Các bộ sưu tập A/W 2017 mang tính cách tân về cách dệt, pha và hoàn thiện. Năm 2016 cho đến nay Cho đến hiện tại thì mọi việc vẫn tốt! Việc mở rộng có thể diễn ra vào năm tới, tùy vào năng suất của năm JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 15

16 COVER STORY TO ADVERTISE Contact Rani Mahendru (512) GOING TO A GOOD EVENT? Send your industry gossip, photos and news to isaxena@apparelresources.com Anubha Industries, India Vietnam market & event expectations Vietnam is a big and potential market with its increasing number of garment manufacturing units amply backed by moderate labour costs; we are exporting to different countries already and confident of catering to Vietnam soon. Product showcase We will display products and technology with focus on the concept of Second Skin, to portray the importance of flexibility in fields like sports and athleisure. Our forte is in innovating new products keeping with the need and requirements of different markets as well trending and popular concepts. Year 2016 so far Year 2016 has been great We have come out with very good products and received amazing response for the same. However, we are currently not working on any new expansion. Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Việt Nam là một thị trường lớn và tiềm năng với số lượng các đơn vị sản xuất hàng may mặc ngày càng tăng và có lợi thế vững vàng nhờ chi phí lao động vừa phải; chúng tôi đang xuất khẩu sang các quốc gia khác và tự tin sẽ sớm cung cấp cho Việt Nam. Trưng bày sản phẩm Chúng tôi sẽ trưng bày các sản phẩm và công nghệ tập trung vào khái niệm Làn da thứ Hai, để mô tả tầm quan trọng của sự linh động trong các lĩnh vực như thể thao và athleisure. Điểm mạnh của chúng tôi là cách tân các sản phẩm mới nhưng vẫn đáp ứng được nhu cầu và yêu cầu của các thị trường khác nhau cũng như các khái niệm xu hướng và phổ biến. Năm 2016 cho đến nay Năm 2016 là một năm tuyệt vời Chúng tôi xuất hiện với các sản phẩm rất tốt và nhận được phản ứng đáng ngạc nhiên đối với các sản phẩm này. Tuy nhiên, hiện nay chúng tôi không có kế hoạch mở rộng nào cả. Mafatlal Industries, India Vietnam market & event expectations With the new TPP sanctions, Vietnam will be next big garment hub for basic apparels. We are supplying around 100,000 yards of fabrics every year to Vietnam. We anticipate this inaugural edition to open many new avenues for Mafatlal and see this as an opportunity to get more close to the garment factories/ buying houses of Vietnam. Product showcase The special focus would be on Denim Trends for S/S 2017 & A/W , premium finishes and prints, jacquards, dobbies and blends. Our USP is product development, service and to keep alive the customers curiosity as to what is next from Mafatlal? Year 2016 so far The year 2016 has been pretty good. We anticipate our capacity to grow by another half-a-million yards by end of 2017 as we aim to grow both in terms of value and volume. Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Cùng với sự ủng hộ của TPP mới, Việt Nam sẽ trở thành trung tâm hàng may mặc lớn tiếp theo về quần áo basic. Chúng tôi đang cung cấp khoảng thước vải hàng năm cho Việt Nam. Chúng tôi dự đoán lần tổ chức đầu tiên này sẽ mở ra nhiều con đường mới cho Mafatlal và xem đây là một cơ hội để đến gần hơn với các nhà máy may mặc/người mua của Việt Nam. Trưng bày sản phẩm Tâm điểm đặc biệt là Xu hướng Vải denim cho S/S 2017 & A/W , lớp hoàn thiện và họa tiết cao cấp, vải dệt hoa, vải dệt tay kéo và pha. USP của chúng tôi là phát triển sản phẩm, dịch vụ và duy trì sự tò mò của khách hàng về sản phẩm tiếp theo của Mafatlal là gì? Năm 2016 cho đến nay Năm 2016 là một năm khá tốt. Chúng tôi dự đoán năng suất của chúng tôi phát triển thêm thước nữa vào trước cuối năm 2017 vì chúng tôi nhắm đến phát triển cả về giá trị lẫn khối lượng. 16 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

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18 COVER STORY TO ADVERTISE Contact Rani Mahendru (512) GOING TO A GOOD EVENT? Send your industry gossip, photos and news to isaxena@apparelresources.com Artistic Fabric Mills, Pakistan Vietnam market & event expectations Due to Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP), Vietnam s denim garment export will increase in the upcoming years and we are looking forward to supplying to the country. In this inaugural event, we expect lots of brands and vendors interacting with whom the exhibitors can learn and know about the market, besides pursuing business opportunities. Product showcase Our collection will include all the highlights of Kingpins and Denim PV like shapewear fabrics and stretch fabrics with soft hand feel. We will also introduce Fitness Denim which empowers designers to freely express the beauty of denim in activewear fits like never before. High-end technologies and quality fibres is what differentiates our products from those of the others. Year 2016 so far The year 2016 has witnessed our in-house shredding plant, earning certificate under the Global Recycle Standard (GRS) to process post-consumer waste jeans into regenerated fibres. This allows us to transform discarded jeans into new yarns, fabrics and garments. With the new plant we aim to redefine the meaning of the term fully vertical and move the denim industry into a new era of sustainability. Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Nhờ Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP), việc xuất khẩu hàng may mặc vải denim của Việt Nam sẽ tăng lên trong những năm tới và chúng tôi mong muốn cung cấp cho quốc gia này. Trong sự kiện khai mạc lần này, chúng tôi mong muốn có nhiều thương hiệu và nhà cung cấp tham gia triển lãm có thể tiếp cận với những người có thể giúp họ học hỏi và tìm hiểu về thị trường này, Grandtex, Indonesia Vietnam market & event expectations With the TPP agreement, more buyers will explore the already huge market. In effect, neighbouring denim suppliers will find Vietnam a huge playground to work in. With this maiden show, we expect to establish our presence more strongly in the region and cater directly to the buyers/ customers. Since last five years, we have already been supplying around 50,000 yards per month to Vietnam; we are also nominated by some brands to supply to Vietnam. Product showcase We will put on display our complete range in different weight, yarn/construction variations and colours, for which the company is well-known. Majority of our exhibits will be in stretch fabrics. We also have a very aggressive product development team, which comes out with an average of 12 items per month. Year 2016 so far The year 2016 is witnessing our continuing growth with acquisition of new machines even as we aim to do our best to meet the expectations of our current buyers and the potential ones in terms of quality and pricing. 18 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

19 COVER STORY Vita Textile, Hong Kong đồng thời nắm bắt các cơ hội kinh doanh. Trưng bày sản phẩm Bộ sưu tập của chúng tôi sẽ bao gồm mọi sản phẩm nổi bật của Kingpins và Denim PV như vải dệt shapewear Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Với hiệp định TPP, sẽ có nhiều người mua hơn khám phá thị trường khổng lồ này. Thực vậy, các nhà cung cấp vải denim lân cận sẽ thấy Việt Nam là một sân chơi lớn cần tham gia vào. Với chương trình đầu tiên này, chúng tôi mong muốn củng cố sự hiện diện của chúng tôi vững chắc hơn tại khu vực này và cung cấp trực tiếp cho người mua/khách hàng. Kể từ 5 năm qua, chúng tôi đã cung cấp khoảng thước mỗi tháng cho Việt Nam; chúng tôi cũng được một số thương hiệu giới thiệu làm nhà cung cấp cho Việt Nam. Trưng bày sản phẩm Chúng tôi sẽ trưng bày toàn bộ sản và vải co giãn với cảm giác mềm tay. Chúng tôi cũng sẽ giới thiệu Fitness Denim với khả năng giúp cho các nhà thiết kế tự do thể hiện nét đẹp của vải denim trong các trang phục activewear như chưa từng có trước đây. Các công nghệ tiên tiến và vải chất lượng là điều làm nên sự khác biệt cho các sản phẩm của chúng tôi so với sản phẩm của các nhà sản xuất khác. Năm 2016 cho đến nay Năm 2016 là năm chứng kiến nhà máy nghiền nội bộ nhận được chứng chỉ của Global Recycle Standard (GRS) để xử lý và biến vải jean phế liệu sau sử dụng trở thành vải tái tạo. Điều này cho phép chúng tôi chuyển đổi vải jean phế liệu thành sợi vải, vải dệt và hàng may mặc mới. Với nhà máy mới này, mục tiêu của chúng tôi là định nghĩa lại ý nghĩa của thuật ngữ fully vertical và đưa ngành công nghiệp vải denim vào một kỷ nguyên mới của sự bền vững. phẩm nổi tiếng của chúng tôi theo trọng lượng, biến thể sợi/cấu tạo và màu sắc khác nhau. Phần lớn các sản phẩm trưng bày của chúng tôi sẽ là chất liệu vải co giãn. Chúng tôi cũng có một đội ngũ phát triển sản phẩm rất năng động, sản xuất trung bình 12 hạng mục mỗi tháng. Năm 2016 cho đến nay Năm 2016 là năm chứng kiến sự phát triển liên tục của chúng tôi với việc mua mới máy móc để nhắm đến mục tiêu nỗ lực đáp ứng các mong muốn của người mua hiện tại của chúng tôi cũng như khách hàng tiềm năm về chất lượng lẫn giá cả. Vietnam market & event expectations Vietnam is a big denim market as lots of denim factories are here; besides production costs are also very competitive here in this country. From this inaugural event, we are hoping to get more clients, bag higher orders in volumes while being able to form a good impression on the clients. Product showcase Special materials and finishes to catch visitors interest; we are specialists in Woven & Knit Denim from basic products like woven rigid, cotton spandex, coasting, colour denim, to super stretch, 4-way stretch and multi-functional denim. Trendy, innovative products with aesthetic presentations for different markets along with competitive pricing are our hallmarks. Year 2016 so far Hopefully the year 2016 will turn out to be a good year with great harvests in new markets and fresh clients. Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Việt Nam là thị trường denim lớn vì có nhiều nhà máy denim ở đây; ngoài ra chi phí sản xuất cũng rất cạnh tranh tại đất nước này. Từ sự kiện mở đầu này, chúng tôi hy vọng có được nhiều khách hàng hơn, số lượng đơn hàng lớn hơn trong khi vẫn có thể tạo được ấn tượng tốt với khách hàng. Trưng bày sản phẩm Các chất liệu và hoàn thiện đặc biệt để thu hút sự hứng thú của khách tham quan; chúng tôi là chuyên gia về Denim Dệt & Dệt Kim từ các sản phẩm cơ bản như vải dệt cứng (woven rigid), spandex bông, coasting, denim màu, đến denim siêu co giãn, co giãn 4 chiều và đa chức năng. Các sản phẩm xu hướng, cách tân có tính thẩm mỹ dành cho các thị trường khác nhau cùng với giá cả cạnh tranh là dấu hiệu nhận biết của chúng tôi. Năm 2016 cho đến nay Hy vọng rằng năm 2016 sẽ trở thành một năm tốt với năng suất lớn tại các thị trường mới và khách hàng mới. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 19

20 COVER STORY TO ADVERTISE Contact Rani Mahendru (512) GOING TO A GOOD EVENT? Send your industry gossip, photos and news to isaxena@apparelresources.com Square Denims Limited, Bangladesh Vietnam market & event expectations In the last few years, Vietnam has seen a phenomenal growth in the textile sector, and this growth is expected to last for few more years. Vietnam is becoming a prominent source for denim jeans, which is evident from the rise of the denim fabric market. With the TPP being introduced, the market would see further growth. This is the first time that after many fairs SDL is participating in a fair held outside Bangladesh, with denimsandjeans.com, which has the competency in creating good platforms for both buyers and sellers of fabrics. Product showcase The theme of our display would be Science of Stretch. SDL is focused on showcasing its specialization on stretch by exhibiting power stretch and super stretch with bigger width & recovery along with colour variety. Few 100% cotton fabrics would also be shown in the fair alongside the blended ones. The components that differentiate SDL products from others are premium cotton yarn, colourcast variety, latest technology, bigger width, real mercerize effect and automatic shrinkage control. Apart from these, SDL also sets a very high standard in terms of quality of product and services. The year 2016 so far The year 2016 has been quite satisfactory in terms of our achievements. Currently, we are running almost to our full capacity, and we have decided to prepone our expansion plans from 2017 to 2018, owing to the good response that we are getting from the market. Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Trong vài năm trở lại đây, Việt Nam đã đạt được sự phát triển mang tính hiện tượng trong phân ngành sản phẩm dệt, và sự phát triển này được dự đoán sẽ kéo dài trong vài năm nữa. Việt Nam đang trở thành nguồn cung cấp vải jean denim chính, có thể nhìn thấy rõ ràng từ sự phát triển của thị trường vải denim. Với TPP đang được áp dụng, thị trường này sẽ đạt được phát triển xa hơn. Đây là lần đầu tiên sau nhiều hội chợ mà SDL tham gia vào một hội chợ được tổ chức ngoài lãnh thổ Bangladesh, với denimsandjeans.com, là thương hiệu có khả năng tạo ra các nền tảng tốt cho cả người mua lẫn người bán vải. Trưng bày sản phẩm Chủ đề trưng bày của chúng tôi sẽ là Khoa học của sự Co giãn. SDL tập trung vào việc thể hiện chuyên môn về Denimes Tekstil, Turkey Vietnam market & event expectations Vietnam is going to be a very important hub in denim business, especially in the light of TPP agreement and the expected GSP facility. We have been supplying to the country since 2015 but the business volume is not very big currently as most are nomination businesses. However, from the inaugural event we are expecting new leads and opportunities enabling us to explore the business potentials in the country even more. Product showcase Since it will be the first denim show in Vietnam and customers expectations would be to see complete range of offerings, we will show our full range and some additional new products which we think are going to be trendy besides being competitively priced. In today s market, time and cost are two very important aspects, and through our two warehouses for different denim hubs, we expect to cover these two factors efficiently. Year 2016 so far We had a great start to 2016, even though the year has been a tough one in general. We are now planning to establish an office in American continent to explore the business potentials in that region. Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Việt Nam sắp trở thành trung tâm cực kỳ quan trọng trong ngành kinh doanh denim, đặc biệt là khi có hiệp định TPP và đặc trưng của GSP. Chúng tôi đã và đang cung cấp cho quốc gia này kể từ năm 2015 nhưng khối lượng kinh doanh gần đây không cao lắm vì đa phần là giao dịch thông qua giới thiệu. Tuy nhiên, từ sự kiện mở đầu này, chúng tôi mong muốn có được các hướng dẫn và cơ hội mới cho phép chúng tôi khám phá tiềm năng của ngành kinh doanh này tại quốc gia này nhiều hơn nữa. Trưng bày sản phẩm Vì đây sẽ là chương trình triển lãm denim đầu tiên tại Việt Nam và kỳ vọng của 20 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

21 COVER STORY Prosperity Textile, China sự co giãn bằng cách trưng bày khả năng co giãn và siêu co giãn cùng với khổ vải lớn hơn & khả năng hồi phục với đa dạng màu sắc. Vài loại vải 100% cotton cũng sẽ được trưng bày trong hội chợ cùng với các loại vải pha. Các thành phần làm nên sự khác biệt giữa sản phẩm của SDL so với các nhà sản xuất khác là sợi cotton cao cấp, đa dạng màu sắc, công nghệ mới nhất, khổ vải lớn hơn, hiệu ứng làm bóng thực và kiểm soát độ co tự động. Ngoài những yếu tố này, SDL cũng thiết lập một tiêu chuẩn rất cao về chất lượng của sản phẩm và dịch vụ. Năm 2016 cho đến nay Năm 2016 chúng tôi khá hài lòng với những thành tựu mà chúng tôi đã đạt được. Gần đây, chúng tôi đang gần như hoạt động hết công suất, và chúng tôi đã quyết định đề xuất kế hoạch mở rộng của chúng tôi từ năm 2017 đến 2018, nhờ vào phản ứng tích cực mà chúng tôi nhận được từ thị trường này. khách hàng sẽ là nhìn thấy được đa dạng các sản phẩm cung cấp, chúng tôi sẽ trưng bày đầy đủ sản phẩm của chúng tôi và một số sản phẩm mới bổ sung mà chúng tôi cho là sẽ trở thành xu hướng bên cạnh mức giá cạnh tranh. Trong thị trường hiện nay, thời gian và chi phí là hai khía cạnh rất quan trọng và qua hai kho hàng chứa các mặt hàng denim khác nhau, chúng tôi mong muốn tận dụng hai yếu tố này một cách hiệu quả. Năm 2016 cho đến nay Chúng tôi đã có một khởi đầu của năm 2016 tuyệt vời, mặc dù nhìn chung năm nay là một năm không mấy thuận lợi. Hiện chúng tôi đang lên kế hoạch thiết lập một văn phòng tại lục địa Mỹ để khám phá các tiềm năng kinh doanh tại khu vực đó. Vietnam market & event expectations Vietnam is a big market for denim fabric We have some solid customers there, and we do see the sales performing pretty well in recent years. In general, Vietnam has lower labour cost and experienced workers, as such we think more and more readymade garment business will move to Vietnam. At this introductory event, we look forward to interact and know as many clients as we can, and try to gain more knowledge of the market. Product showcase We will present our latest collections of S/S and F/W 2017 denim fabrics at the show. Lots of new inspirations like our Stretch X4 (which provides 4-way stretch and ultimate freedom of movement), F2 Denim (powered by innovative technology to help you stay warm, cool, fresh and fit), our Vintage Stretch Line (which combines heritage look with comfort stretch) besides very interesting lightweight fabrics for shirting, with 100% cotton, Tencel and Linen. Innovative and quality products with reasonable pricing have always been our commitment! Year 2016 so far Business has been pretty good; we saw increased shipment to US, EU and China as well. Expansion is also on the offing; Prosperity Textile is investing in Vietnam to build a new denim fabric mill with 30 million yards capacity, expected to start operation in mid We are very confident about the global denim market and especially Vietnam. Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Việt Nam là một thị trường vải denim lớn Chúng tôi có một số khách hàng trung thành ở đó, và chúng tôi thực sự thấy được doanh số đang tăng khá tốt trong những năm gần đây. Nhìn chung, Việt Nam có chi phí lao động thấp hơn và có công nhân giàu kinh nghiệm, như vậy chúng tôi cho rằng sẽ có ngày càng nhiều công ty sản xuất hàng may sẵn đến Việt Nam. Tại sự kiện giới thiệu này, chúng tôi muốn tiếp xúc và tìm hiểu càng nhiều khách hàng càng tốt, và cố gắng nâng cao kiến thức về thị trường này nhiều hơn. Trưng bày sản phẩm Chúng tôi sẽ giới thiệu các bộ sưu tập vải denim S/S và F/W 2017 mới nhất của chúng tôi tại triển lãm này. Nhiều ý tưởng mới như Stretch X4 của chúng tôi (với khả năng co giãn 4 chiều và vận động thoải mái nhất), F2 Denim (được hỗ trợ bằng công nghệ tiên tiến nhằm giúp bạn duy trì độ ấm, lạnh, mới mẻ và vừa người), Vintage Stretch Line (kết hợp vẻ đẹp di sản với khả năng co giãn thoải mái) bên cạnh các loại vải nhẹ rất thú vị dùng để may áo sơ-mi, với 100% cotton, Tơ nhân tạo và Lanh. Các sản phẩm cách tân và chất lượng với giá cả hợp lý luôn là cam kết của chúng tôi! Năm 2016 cho đến nay Công việc kinh doanh khá tốt; các chuyến tàu chở hàng của chúng tôi đến Mỹ, châu Âu cũng như Trung Quốc đã tăng lên. Việc mở rộng cũng sắp được thực hiện; Prosperity Textile đang đầu tư vào Việt Nam để xây dựng một đơn vị sản xuất vải denim mới với năng suất 30 triệu thước, dự đoán sẽ bắt đầu hoạt động vào giữa năm Chúng tôi rất tự tin về thị trường denim toàn cầu và đặc biệt là Việt Nam. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 21

22 COVER STORY TO ADVERTISE Contact Rani Mahendru (512) GOING TO A GOOD EVENT? Send your industry gossip, photos and news to isaxena@apparelresources.com Shasha Denim, Bangladesh Vicunha, Brazil Vietnam market & event expectations This region is likely to see a significant growth in the next few years and the potential benefits of TPP and Free Trade Agreements with the EU would make it enticing for many companies. Vicunha recognizes the importance of Vietnam and have accordingly established an office in the area to ensure that we have the foundation to do some substantial business in this area. We are now moving into the second year in this region. Vietnam market & event expectations It is definitely a big market as it is emerging as one of the strong RMG destinations in the Asian market. At the inaugural event, our expectation as well as goal is to know about the RMG units of Vietnam and learn about their works. We haven t supplied fabric to Vietnam as yet, as most of our customers are Europe-based and they are mostly working with Bangladeshi factories. Leaving Vietnam, we have supplied fabrics to Cambodia and Sri Lanka. Product showcase We will exhibit our finest products that would speak about Shasha Denim s reputation in the International market. However, the display would be little different to make it easier for the visitors to get the products that they are actually looking for. Being the first denim mill of Bangladesh, we possess technical knowhow and the most experienced technicians to ensure quality and look of the products The year 2016 so far It has been good going so far! The year has witnessed our valuable customers putting their faith in us and showing interest in the business growth. At present our capacity is 1.8 million yards per month and another 1 million yards will be added through a new sustainable project, which we are expecting to be implemented by the end of July Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Đây chắc chắn là một thị trường lớn vì nơi đây đang nổi lên như là một trong những điểm đến RMG mạnh mẽ tại thị trường châu Á. Tại sự kiện mở đầu này, mong muốn cũng như mục tiêu của chúng tôi là tìm hiểu về các Đơn vị RMG của Việt Nam và học hỏi sản phẩm của họ. Chúng tôi chưa cung cấp vải đến Việt Nam vì đa số khách hàng của chúng tôi đều tại châu Âu và họ chủ yếu làm việc với các nhà máy Bangladeshi. Không tính Việt Nam, chúng tôi đã cung cấp vải cho Campuchia và Sri Lanka. Trưng bày sản phẩm Chúng tôi sẽ trưng bày các sản phẩm tốt nhất của chúng tôi, là những sản phẩm nói lên được uy tín của Shasha Denim tại thị trường Quốc tế. Tuy nhiên, lần trưng bày này sẽ khác biệt một chút để khách tham quan dễ dàng sở hữu sản phẩm mà họ đang tìm kiếm hơn. Là đơn vị sản xuất denim đầu tiên tại Bangladesh, chúng tôi sở hữu phương pháp sản xuất kỹ thuật và các kỹ thuật viên giàu kinh nghiệm nhất nhằm đảm bảo chất lượng cũng như vẻ đẹp của sản phẩm Năm 2016 cho đến nay Công việc kinh doanh diễn ra rất tốt! Năm nay chúng tôi đã có được những khách hàng giá trị và họ đã đặt niềm tin vào chúng tôi cũng như thể hiện quan tâm đến sự phát triển của ngành kinh doanh này. Hiện tại, năng suất của chúng tôi là 1,8 triệu thước mỗi tháng và sẽ có thêm 1 triệu thước nữa được bổ sung qua dự án bền vững mới. Với dự án này, chúng tôi dự định thực hiện trước cuối tháng 7/2016 này. TCE Denim, Vietnam Vietnam market & event expectations Vietnam is getting firm and strong since the last 3-4 years. Most of the customers are still dependent on China but big retailers and brands would soon start production in Vietnam. Some of the major names have been checking about the existing market scenario during the last 2-3 years, and now they are starting to move in. I expect this country to become the post-china option soon. Besides, the TPP agreement will also play to the country s advantage to make Vietnam s textile infrastructure even stronger. Countless customers will visit this exhibition from many different 22 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

23 COVER STORY Our stock service in Colombo provides enormous flexibility for manufacturing in the region, reducing lead times and allowing quicker reaction to sales and working closer to the season. We will continue to focus our attention in this area as we see there is a large potential for growth. Product showcase For the fair, we will tailor our range; specifically for the region, we will focus on our stock offer where we can provide competitively-priced products to fit the customers needs and requirements, based on our expert market knowledge. Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Khu vực này có khả năng đạt được sự phát triển đáng kể trong vài năm tới và những lợi ích tiềm năng của các hiệp định TPP và Thương mại Tự do với châu Âu sẽ giúp cho thị trường này trở nên hấp dẫn đối với nhiều công ty. Vicunha thừa nhận tầm quan trọng của Việt Nam và theo đó đã thiết lập một văn phòng tại khu vực này để đảm bảo rằng chúng tôi có nền tảng để tiến hành một số công việc kinh doanh quan trọng tại khu vực này. Hiện nay chúng tôi đang bước vào năm thứ hai tại vùng này. Dịch vụ lưu kho của chúng tôi tại Colombo đem lại sự linh động cực kỳ lớn cho việc sản xuất tại khu vực này, làm giảm thời gian trễ và cho phép phản ứng nhanh hơn với doanh số và tiếp cận gần thời cơ hơn. Chúng tôi sẽ tiếp tục tập trung sự chú ý của chúng tôi vào khu vực này vì chúng tôi nhìn thấy được tiềm năng phát triển to lớn. Trưng bày sản phẩm Đối với hội chợ, chúng tôi sẽ biến đổi phạm vi sản phẩm của chúng tôi; đặc biệt là đối với khu vực này, chúng tôi sẽ tập trung vào đề xuất hàng tồn kho, nơi chúng tôi có thể cung cấp các sản phẩm giá cạnh tranh nhằm đáp ứng nhu cầu và yêu cầu của khách hàng, dựa trên kiến thức thị trường chuyên nghiệp của chúng tôi. Asian countries, which will give us the opportunity to meet them as well as our existing customers from Vietnam and Hong Kong, to explore business possibilities. Product showcase Focus will be on basic texture with blended yarn products. These will not be fashion items but will provide a suitable range for the mass market customers. Sustainability will be the other focus. We differ from others for our deep and authentic ring dyeing effect using 22 dip rope dyeing machines. The year 2016 so far This year is quite different compared to last year as EU and US orders have witnessed a marked increase. Thị trường Việt Nam & triển vọng sự kiện Việt Nam đang trở nên vững chắc và mạnh mẽ kể từ 3-4 năm qua. Đa số khách hàng vẫn phụ thuộc vào Trung Quốc nhưng các nhà bán lẻ và thương hiệu lớn sẽ sớm bắt đầu sản xuất tại Việt Nam. Một số cái tên lớn đã và đang tìm hiểu về thị trường hiện có trong suốt 2-3 năm qua, và hiện nay họ đang bắt đầu chuyển đến. Tôi mong rằng quốc gia này sẽ sớm trở thành lựa chọn sau Trung Quốc. Bên cạnh đó, hiệp định TPP cũng sẽ đóng góp vào thuận lợi của quốc gia này để khiến cho cơ sở hạ tầng dệt may của Việt Nam trở nên mạnh hơn. Sẽ có rất nhiều khách hàng đến tham quan triển lãm từ nhiều quốc gia châu Á khác nhau. Điều này sẽ I expect Vietnam to become the post-china option soon. Besides, the TPP agreement will also play to the country s advantage to make its textile infrastructure even stronger. tạo cơ hội cho chúng tôi gặp gỡ họ cũng như gặp gỡ khách hàng hiện có của chúng tôi đến từ Việt Nam và Hồng Kông, để khám phá tiềm năng kinh doanh. Trưng bày sản phẩm Tâm điểm sẽ là cấu trúc cơ bản với các sản phẩm sợi pha. Các sản phẩm này không phải là mặt hàng thời trang nhưng sẽ cung cấp phạm vi sản phẩm phù hợp với khách hàng của thị trường đại chúng. Tính bền vững sẽ là tâm điểm khác. Chúng tôi khác biệt so với các thương hiệu khác vì hiệu ứng nhuộm vòng sâu và tổng hợp của chúng tôi, sử dụng 22 máy nhuộm dây ngập. Năm 2016 cho đến nay Năm nay khá khác biệt so với năm ngoái vì đơn hàng châu Âu và Mỹ đã tăng đáng kể. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 23

24 COVER STORY APPAREL RESOURCES NEWSLETTERS To subscribe, send us an at FACEBOOK FRIENDS Join more than 10,000 people who are already fans of Apparel Resources on facebook. Search for Apparel Resources at Kilim, Turkey Vietnam existence & event expectations We are already working with some customers here in Vietnam. Through this event we want to expand our business activity in the country further. Product showcase We will present offerings in latest innovation and technology. We generally have four main concepts (a) Ageless (basic, easy to fade and real denim fabrics); (b) Perfection (special overdyed and coated fabrics); (c) Femme Fatale (power-stretch, soft touches and clean fabrics); and (d) Land of Nature (sustainable and organic cotton used green fabrics). Our watch out for products are nano finishes, such as water and oil repellent, coatings and over-dyed technology. Business value addition There is wide range of application of finishes on denims, in different structures. Lịch sử hoạt động tại Việt Nam & kỳ vọng của sự kiện Chúng tôi đã và đang hợp tác với một số khách hàng tại Việt Nam. Qua sự kiện này, chúng tôi muốn mở rộng xa hơn hoạt động kinh doanh trong nước. Giới thiệu sản phẩm Chúng tôi sẽ trưng bày các sản phẩm công nghệ và sáng tạo tân tiến nhất hiện nay. Về cơ bản, chúng tôi đặt nền tảng trên bốn khái niệm chính - (a) Vĩnh viễn (Cơ bản, dễ phai và vải denim thật); (b) Hoàn hảo (Vải được nhuộm già và tráng phủ đặc biệt); (c) Quyến rũ (Co giãn thể thao, mềm mại khi chạm và sạch sẽ); và (d) Đất Thiên nhiên (loại vải tốt cho môi trường sử dụng cotton hữu cơ và dễ tái chế). Sản phẩm của chúng tôi được theo dõi chặt chẽ và hoàn thiện ở từng công đoạn tinh vi nhất như chống thấm nước và dầu, công nghệ tráng phủ và nhuộm già. Gia tăng giá trị kinh doanh Có nhiều cách để thực hiện công đoạn hoàn thiện vải denim, theo các cấu trúc khác nhau. Le & Le, Vietnam Vietnam market & event expectations The market is not very big as yet since we have only four big denim mills in the country while the rest are all small players catering mostly to the local market. Besides, our mills need to improve in terms of technology and productivity; so in a way, Vietnam is still dependent on the international market for its requirements. The inaugural event in Vietnam is going to be a landmark occasion for us, as this will be our first event since the time we started our company on August 8, 2015, while our factory opened recently on March 15, From this event, we could foresee great things happening which would affect the denim manufacturers in Vietnam. Product showcase Denim jeans that flaunt intricate designs, heavy stitching, embroideries, all types of embellishment along with very good dry and wet washing processes. We may also bring casual shirt products to the event. There aren t many garment factories in Vietnam which can do big stitches and heavy embellishment, and our objective is to commit to reliability, sustainability and heightened efficiency. The year 2016 so far It has been a very good year for us so far; we opened our factory on time and prior to official opening buyers had started visiting the facility already. We are also expecting our capacity to be fully booked by the end of December this year. Thị trường Việt Nam & kỳ vọng của sự kiện Thị trường vẫn chưa phải là rất lớn nhưng vì chúng tôi chỉ có bốn nhà máy vải denim lớn trong nước, trong khi phần còn lại là các nhà cung cấp nhỏ phục vụ chủ yếu cho thị trường địa phương. Bên cạnh đó, các nhà máy của chúng tôi cần cải thiện về công nghệ và năng suất; như vậy theo một cách nào đó, Việt Nam vẫn còn phụ thuộc vào thị trường quốc tế để đáp ứng các nhu cầu trong nước. Sự kiện khai trương tại Việt Nam sẽ là một cơ hội mang tính bước ngoặt đối với chúng tôi, vì đây sẽ là sự kiện đầu tiên của chúng tôi kể từ khi thành lập công ty vào ngày 08 tháng Tám năm 2015, trong khi nhà máy của chúng tôi gần đây đã khai trương vào ngày 15 tháng Ba năm Từ sự kiện này, chúng tôi có thể dự đoán được nhiều điều tuyệt vời đang xảy ra sẽ ảnh hưởng tới các nhà sản xuất vải denim tại Việt Nam. 24 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

25 COVER STORY Siddiqsons, Pakistan Giới thiệu sản phẩm Các sản phẩm jean denim thường nhấn mạnh và làm nổi bật các thiết kế phức tạp, nhiều đường khâu, thêu ren, tất cả các loại trang trí nổi và có quy trình giặt khô và ướt rất tốt. Chúng tôi cũng có thể đưa sản phẩm áo sơ mi casual đến sự kiện này. Không có nhiều nhà máy may mặc ở Việt Nam có năng lực gia công các đường khâu lớn và trang trí nổi dày đặc, và mục tiêu của chúng tôi là cam kết đảm bảo độ tin cậy, tính bền vững và hiệu quả cao. Năm 2016 đến nay... Năm qua là một năm chúng tôi hoạt động rất thành công; chúng tôi đã khai trương nhà máy đúng kế hoạch và từ trước khi khai trương chính thức, người mua đã bắt đầu đến thăm cơ sở sản xuất. Chúng tôi cũng đang mong đợi sẽ nhận đủ đơn đặt hàng hết công suất vào cuối tháng Mười Hai năm nay. Vietnam market & event expectations Vietnam market is quite big as it witnessed a phenomenal increase in exports, i.e. of US $ 24 billion and there was a major shift in growth since We believe the country has more potential than Bangladesh. Furthermore, there are approximately 4,000 companies, which employ 1.3 million workers directly in the garment and apparel industry. If they are making garments then obviously they are procuring a lot of fabrics. We are also supplying denim fabric to Vietnam for more than 10 years now. We awaited a good platform to meet new customers and we see DJ, Vietnam providing us that opportunity. As we are moving towards globalization, we expect to see a lot of new trends, and meet buyers to sell our products. We are quite positive that this show would open new gates for us. Product showcase We are planning to showcase our complete range; also we would like to exhibit new fibres, which we have blended with cotton such as Crailar, Hemp, jute cells, etc. Some upcoming trends and fabrics produced with the use of minimum amount of water will also be exhibited. We make knitted denim and are also working on alternate fibres such as Crailar and Hemp, which differentiates our product line. The year 2016 so far It has been good! As we are quite optimistic business growth, we have increased our capacity already by 25%. We have installed new wider width looms, a Slasher dyeing and new Stenter machine. We really look forward to reaching a new milestone this year. Thị trường Việt Nam & kỳ vọng của sự kiện Thị trường Việt Nam có quy mô khá lớn với tốc độ gia tăng mạnh mẽ các sản phẩm xuất khẩu, tương đương 24 tỷ USD và đã có một sự tăng trưởng lớn kể từ năm Chúng tôi tin rằng quốc gia này có nhiều tiềm năng hơn Bangladesh. Hơn nữa, có khoảng công ty đang sử dụng 1,3 triệu lao động trực tiếp trong ngành công nghiệp dệt may và may mặc. Nếu họ đang làm hàng may mặc thì rõ ràng là họ sẽ cần mua sắm rất nhiều vải. Chúng tôi cũng đã và đang cung cấp vải denim cho Việt Nam hơn 10 năm nay. Chúng tôi mong chờ một nền tảng tốt để gặp gỡ khách hàng mới và chúng tôi thấy rằng Việt Nam sẽ cho chúng tôi cơ hội đó. Vì chúng ta đang tiến đến quá trình toàn cầu hóa, chúng tôi mong đợi nhiều xu hướng mới và gặp gỡ người mua để bán các sản phẩm của chúng tôi. Chúng tôi khá lạc quan rằng chương trình này sẽ mở ra nhiều cánh cửa mới cho chúng tôi. Giới thiệu sản phẩm Chúng tôi đang có kế hoạch giới thiệu đầy đủ các sản phẩm của chúng tôi; chúng tôi cũng muốn triển lãm các loại sợi mới mà chúng tôi đã pha trộn với cotton như sợi Crailar, sợi Gai, sợi đay,...v.v. Một số xu hướng sắp tới và các loại vải sản xuất với việc sử dụng lượng nước tối thiểu cũng sẽ được trưng bày. Chúng tôi sản xuất vải denim dệt kim và cũng đang nghiên cứu các loại sợi thay thế như Crailar và Gai, giúp làm nổi bật dòng sản phẩm của chúng tôi. Năm 2016 đến nay... Mọi việc rất tốt! Vì chúng tôi rất lạc quan với việc phát triển kinh doanh, chúng tôi đã tăng công suất lên 25%. Chúng tôi đã lắp đặt thêm các khung dệt mới rộng hơn, một máy nhuộm Slasher và một máy Sấy định hình mới. Chúng tôi thực sự mong muốn đạt đến một cột mốc mới trong năm nay. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 25

26 COVER STORY SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES Contact Rani Mahendru (512) DATA ANALYTICS For Latest Apparel Export/Import Data please visit dataanalytics.apparelresources.com Indigo Textile (Pvt.) Ltd., Pakistan Vietnam market & event expectations Denim is a growing segment of apparel sourced from Vietnam and is likely to witness significant growth in the coming years. Many textile and garment companies in the region have already begun to move production to Vietnam. All the leading brands of US, Europe and Japan are already present in the industry. During 2014, the exports of Vietnam s textile and garments have crossed US $ 24 billion. Besides with TPP, we believe it is one market which seems to foster and acknowledge an increase in the apparel industry provided they are ready for strategic alliances. We have been working in Vietnam market since 2012 on nomination business; till now we have shipped around 900,000 yards to Vietnam. Since the Vietnam textile industry is growing, we expect visitation from all leading brands and look forward to meet and understand the local vendors, owners and decision makers who would be willing to form strategic alliances with the players in the industry. Product showcase We would be showing our complete range. Apart from the fashion articles, we will also present our premium/value-added articles like Knit, Tencel, Modal, Viscose, T-400, Wool and Coating. Our stretch articles with deep Indigo, Pure Indigo, and True blue colours in wider widths with finest quality, which is our strength. Along with our performance collection, which includes dobby woven fabrics (Jog jeans), and which is also one of our core strengths, will be showcased. Since we are already catering to the US market in a big way, we believe we are better off with the new vintage American fabric trends. Year 2016 so far The year 2016 has been a good year so far. We are rapidly expanding by putting up new looms, new state-of-the-art rope dyeing machines, etc. We look forward to increase our capacities from current production of 1.5 million metres to 2 million metres by the end of this year. Thị trường Việt Nam & kỳ vọng của sự kiện Vải denim là một phân khúc ngành may mặc đang phát triển có nguồn gốc từ Việt Nam và có thể sẽ chứng kiến sự tăng trưởng đáng kể trong những năm tới. Nhiều công ty dệt may trong khu vực đã bắt đầu di chuyển dây chuyền sản xuất sang Việt Nam. Tất cả các nhãn hiệu hàng đầu của Mỹ, châu Âu và Nhật Bản đều đã có mặt trong ngành. Trong năm 2014, kim ngạch xuất khẩu dệt may của Việt Nam đã vượt qua 24 tỷ USD. Bên cạnh đó với TPP, chúng tôi tin rằng đây là một trong những thị trường sẽ nuôi dưỡng và kiến tạo sự gia tăng trong ngành công nghiệp dệt may, miễn là thị trường đã sẵn sàng cho các liên minh chiến lược. Chúng tôi đã làm việc tại thị trường Việt Nam từ năm 2012 với một số doanh nghiệp được đề cử; cho đến nay, chúng tôi đã vận chuyển khoảng thước (Anh) vải đến Việt Nam. Do ngành công nghiệp dệt may Việt Nam đang phát triển, chúng tôi mong chờ sự tham gia từ tất cả các thương hiệu hàng đầu và mong muốn được gặp gỡ và hiểu các nhà cung cấp địa phương, các chủ sở hữu và các nhân vật có vai trò quyết định đã sẵn sàng tạo thành "liên minh chiến lược" với các doanh nghiệp trong ngành. Rajbe Textile, Pakistan Vietnam market & event expectations We see Vietnam as a big market for denim fabric as it is already expanding, and has huge shares in the biggest markets, which are growing at a rapid pace. The TPP agreement is also meant to be very resourceful in expansion of the trade. We had plans to enter the market, and now perhaps is the best time to do so, with support of denimsandjeans.com. We have very high expectations from this event We look forward to cater to the whole market with the best of opportunities. We plan to showcase our complete range with the focus being on S/S Besides, we also plan to showcase our value-added creations in the event. Product showcase Our focus is on stretches, be it comfort stretch or power stretch. We have everything under one roof, from ball warping to finishing. We also produce fabrics with properties such as blends (tencel, modal, T-400, Dual FX, etc.), organic, recycled, coating, over-dye, pigment over-dye, knitted denim as well as dobby. The year 2016 so far The year has been phenomenal in all aspects; we have had amazing results and plans till date, and hope to see much more this year as well as in the years to come. We are expanding our capacity to 3.2 million metres per month, which is double our current capacity. Work is already in progress and we will be hitting the mark in the middle of next year. 26 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

27 COVER STORY Giới thiệu sản phẩm Tuong Long Textiles Mills, Vietnam Chúng tôi sẽ giới thiệu đầy đủ các sản phẩm của mình. Ngoài các mẫu thời trang, chúng tôi cũng sẽ trưng bày các mẫu cao cấp/giá trị gia tăng của chúng tôi như dệt kim, Tencel, Modal, Viscose, T-400, Len và Vải Áo choàng. Các sản phẩm vải co giãn của chúng tôi được nhuộm sâu màu Chàm, Chàm Thuần và Xanh thuần với độ rộng cao và chất lượng tốt nhất, đây cũng là thế mạnh của chúng tôi. Cùng với đó, bộ sưu tập performance của chúng tôi, bao gồm vải dệt dobby (vải bò Jog), và cũng là một trong những thế mạnh cốt lõi của chúng tôi, sẽ được trưng bày. Vì chúng tôi đã phục vụ thị trường Mỹ với quy mô lớn, chúng tôi tin rằng chúng tôi sẽ thành công với xu hướng vải Mỹ cổ điển mới. Năm 2016 đến nay... Năm 2016 là một năm tốt. Chúng tôi đang mở rộng nhanh chóng bằng cách lắp đặt thêm khung dệt mới, hệ thống máy nhuộm mới tiêu chuẩn quốc tế...v.v. Chúng tôi mong muốn tăng công suất từ mức hiện nay là 1,5 triệu mét đến mức 2 triệu mét vào cuối năm nay. Vietnam market & event expectations Vietnam is a potential big denim market because lot of Chinese companies are looking at this country. Through this event, we expect to contact more potential customers/buyers. Product ensemble Competitively-priced denims and khakis with characteristic finishes. The year 2016 so far This year, we have already started installing a new facility to expand our capacity, besides working towards upgrading the quality of our products. Thị trường Việt Nam & kỳ vọng của sự kiện Việt Nam là một thị trường tiềm năng lớn đối với vải bò vì rất nhiều công ty Trung Quốc đang xem xét thị trường này. Thông qua sự kiện này, chúng tôi mong đợi sẽ gặp gỡ được nhiều khách hàng/người mua tiềm năng hơn. Giới thiệu chung sản phẩm Vải Denim và Kaki với giá cạnh tranh và nét hoàn thiện đặc trưng. Năm 2016 đến nay... Năm nay, chúng tôi đã bắt đầu lắp đặt một cơ sở mới để mở rộng công suất, ngoài việc nỗ lực nâng cao chất lượng sản phẩm của chúng tôi. Thị trường Việt Nam & kỳ vọng của sự kiện Chúng tôi thấy Việt Nam là một thị trường lớn cho vải denim vì thị trường đã đang mở rộng và có thị phần lớn tại các thị trường lớn nhất, hiện đang phát triển với tốc độ nhanh chóng. Hiệp định TPP cũng sẽ rất hữu ích trong việc mở rộng thương mại. Chúng tôi đã có kế hoạch thâm nhập thị trường, và bây giờ có lẽ là thời gian tốt nhất để làm điều đó, với sự hỗ trợ của denimsandjeans.com. Chúng tôi có những kỳ vọng rất cao từ sự kiện này... Chúng tôi mong muốn được phục vụ cho toàn bộ thị trường với các cơ hội tốt nhất. Chúng tôi có kế hoạch giới thiệu đầy đủ các sản phẩm của mình và tập trung vào vào mùa Xuân/Hè năm Bên cạnh đó, chúng tôi cũng có kế hoạch giới thiệu những sản phẩm sáng tạo giá trị gia tăng của chúng tôi trong sự kiện này. Giới thiệu sản phẩm Chúng tôi tập trung vào vải co giãn, dù là co giãn thoải mái hay co giãn thể thao. Chúng tôi thực hiện mọi thứ tại một cơ sở, từ xe sợi cho đến lúc hoàn thiện. Chúng tôi cũng sản xuất các loại vải có các đặc tính như hỗn hợp (tencel, modal, T-400, Dual FX, v.v.), hữu cơ, tái chế, tráng phủ, nhuộm già, bột màu trên nhuộm, dệt kim vải bò và dobby. Năm 2016 đến nay... Năm nay rất tốt về mọi mặt; chúng tôi đã có được kết quả và kế hoạch tuyệt vời cho đến giờ, và hy vọng sẽ nhìn thấy nhiều thành công hơn trong năm nay cũng như trong những năm tới. Chúng tôi đang mở rộng công suất lên đến mức 3,2 triệu mét mỗi tháng, tăng gấp đôi so với công suất hiện tại. Mọi việc đã và đang được tiến hành và chúng tôi sẽ đạt mức chỉ tiêu vào khoảng giữa năm tới. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 27

28 COVER STORY THE LATEST NEWS For the latest news on apparel and textile, make sure that you visit HAVE YOUR SAY Write to Apparel Resources, B-32, South Extension-1, New Delhi (110049), India or Soorty, Pakistan Vietnam market & event expectations It s a big market as many manufacturing companies are making a beeline to enter Vietnam market. There are huge chances that this market will develop significantly and with it the shares of fabric sales. As Vietnam is one of the biggest markets for textile, through this event we want to explore it better. Product showcase We are showcasing our complete range along with new developments. Some exceptional offerings are Armadura, Herbal Blue, Eco-Colours, New-Colours, Eco-Finishing, Core Power, Wide range of Bi-Stretches and Sustainable denim. The year 2016 so far This year has witnessed increased demands, considering which, we have added a new denim mill; a recycling spinning project is also coming up to fulfil the requirements of all types of recycled yarns. Having focus on sustainability, Soorty is aiming to bring Platinum rated factory in Pakistan textile sector. Thị trường Việt Nam & kỳ vọng của sự kiện Đây là một thị trường lớn vì nhiều công ty sản xuất đang thâm nhập mạnh mẽ vào thị trường Việt Nam. Có nhiều khả năng thị trường này sẽ phát triển đáng kể và cùng với đó là sự gia tăng trong lĩnh vực kinh doanh vải. Việt Nam là một trong những thị trường lớn nhất cho ngành dệt và thông qua sự kiện này, chúng tôi muốn tìm hiểu nó tốt hơn. Giới thiệu sản phẩm Chúng tôi trưng bày đầy đủ các sản phẩm của chúng tôi cùng với các sản phẩm mới. Một số sản phẩm đặc biệt là Armadura, Herbal Blue, Eco-Colours, New-Colours, Eco- Finishing, Core Power, nhiều sản phẩm Bi-Stretches và Sustainable denim. Năm 2016 đến nay... Năm nay nhu cầu đã tăng lên nhiều, qua đó, chúng tôi đã khai trương một nhà máy vải denim mới; một dự án tái chế xe sợi cũng đang được thực hiện để đáp ứng yêu cầu của tất cả các loại sợi tái chế.tập trung vào tính bền vững, mục tiêu của Soorty là tạo dựng nhà máy Tiêu chuẩn Platinum trong ngành dệt Pakistan. K G Denim Limited, India Vietnam market & event expectations It holds a lot of potential! The preferential tariff to EU nations will give it a competitive edge, and we are expecting good business in this region. In last five years, we have already supplied a substantial volume of both denim and non denim fabrics. We expect the inaugural event to enable us make new customers, pursue business opportunities and expand our wings further. Product showcase Complete range of trend-setting, quality and innovative products, both denim and nondenim (solid dyed) fabrics in shirting, tops and bottoms. Thị trường Việt Nam & kỳ vọng của sự kiện Có rất nhiều tiềm năng! Các ưu đãi thuế quan cho các quốc gia EU sẽ mang đến cho thị trường này một lợi thế cạnh tranh, và chúng tôi đang mong đợi hoạt động kinh doanh tốt ở khu vực này. Trong năm năm qua, chúng tôi đã cung cấp một khối lượng đáng kể cả vải denim và vải không denim. Chúng tôi mong chờ sự kiện khai mạc này sẽ cho phép chúng tôi có được khách hàng mới, theo đuổi các cơ hội kinh doanh và mở rộng thị trường hơn nữa. Giới thiệu sản phẩm Đầy đủ sản phẩm dẫn đầu xu hướng, chất lượng cao và sáng tạo, gồm cả chất liệu vải denim và vải không denim (nhuộm rắn) cho áo sơ mi, áo kiểu và quần. 28 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

29 COVER STORY Garmon, Italy Ribbontex, Italy Vietnam existence & event expectations We are a chemical specialties solutions provider for garment wet processing, based in Italy and manufacture, market and support all the strategic textile areas worldwide, including Vietnam where Garmon is represented by our agent, Truongphat Chemicals. Through this event, we would try and explore new contacts and also familiarise the visitors with our sustainable offerings. Product showcase We will exhibit optima (a range of highly eco-efficient washing solutions entirely driven by GreenScreen for Safer Chemicals), avol oxy white (Garmon s challenge to potassium permanganate, which is free from heavy metals and alogenates), add-art (for environmentallysavvy people to whom sustainable behaviour is important), and the Italian Job F/W collection. Italian Job is a R&D initiative for developing specific finishing studies and product concepts. Business value additions Optima, while reducing the use of resources and environmental impact, would help in making business more profitable and competitive; avol oxy white will help denim retain expression, simplicity and safety. As to add-art, compared to conventional processes, its dyeing phase would help save at least 90% of water normally used in the dyeing bath. The Italian Job F/W collection is all about discovering the trends for next year. Lịch sử hoạt động tại Việt Nam & kỳ vọng của sự kiện Chúng tôi là nhà cung cấp chuyên về các giải pháp hóa học cho ngành chế biến ướt sản phẩm may mặc, trụ sở tại Ý và sản xuất, tiếp thị và hỗ trợ tất cả các lĩnh vực dệt may chiến lược trên toàn thế giới, bao gồm Việt Nam, nơi Garmon được đại diện bởi đại lý của chúng tôi là Công ty Hóa chất Trường Phát. Thông qua sự kiện này, chúng tôi sẽ mở rộng các mối quan hệ mới và cũng sẽ giúp khách tham quan tiếp cận các dịch vụ bền vững của chúng tôi. Giới thiệu sản phẩm Chúng tôi sẽ triển lãm optima (các giải pháp rửa hiệu quả sinh thái cao hoàn toàn được quản lý bởi GreenScreen for Safer Chemicals), avol oxy trắng (đối trọng của Garmon thay cho kali permanganat, không có kim loại nặng và chất alogenates), add-art (dành cho những người đặc biệt quan tâm đến môi trường và coi trọng việc sản xuất bền vững), và bộ sưu tập Italian Job F/W ' Italian Job là một phong trào Nghiên cứu & Phát triển để thúc đẩy các nghiên cứu về quy trình hoàn thiện và khái niệm sản phẩm cụ thể. Gia tăng giá trị kinh doanh Optima, ngoài việc giúp giảm việc sử dụng các nguồn lực và tác động môi trường, sẽ giúp cho việc kinh doanh có lợi nhuận cao và cạnh tranh hơn; đồng thời avol oxy white sẽ giúp vải denim duy trì được sự ấn tượng, giản dị và an toàn. Về phần add-art, so với các quy trình thông thường, giai đoạn nhuộm của add-art sẽ giúp tiết kiệm ít nhất 90% lượng nước thường được sử dụng trong bồn nhuộm. Bộ sưu tập Italian Job F/W tập trung vào việc khám phá những xu hướng cho năm tiếp theo. Vietnam existence & event expectations Specialist in manufacturing rigid and elastic customized ribbons, we are an Italian company and offer products including jacquards, foil stamping, screen printing, sublimation printing, laser processing, vintage effects, embroidered ribbons, ribbon labels, and woven tags. Through this inaugural event which we are sure will give us the perfect platform to present our accessories and products we would also like to introduce ourselves to the Vietnam market and look forward to make some interesting contacts to further our business interests. Product showcase Technologies that offer the best of solutions to enrich the look and quality of garments, especially indigo items, which are in great demand in the world of denim. Lịch sử hoạt động tại Việt Nam & kỳ vọng của sự kiện Chuyên sản xuất ruy-băng cứng và đàn hồi tùy chỉnh, chúng tôi là một công ty Ý và cung cấp các sản phẩm bao gồm khung dệt hoa, lá dập, in bề mặt, in thăng hoa, xử ý laser, hiệu ứng cổ điển, băng thêu, thêu ruy băng, và thẻ dệt. Thông qua sự kiện khai mạc, - nơi mà chúng tôi chắc chắn sẽ cung cấp cho mình nền tảng hoàn hảo để trưng bày các phụ kiện và các sản phẩm - chúng tôi cũng muốn giới thiệu bản thân với thị trường Việt Nam và mong muốn kết nối với các mối liên hệ hữu ích để tăng hiệu quả cho công việc kinh doanh. Giới thiệu sản phẩm Các công nghệ cung cấp các giải pháp tốt nhất để tăng sự phong phú cho hình thức và chất lượng của sản phẩm may mặc, đặc biệt là các mặt hàng màu chàm có nhu cầu lớn trong thế giới vải bò denim. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 29

30 AO SERIES APPAREL RESOURCES NEWSLETTERS To subscribe, send us an at FACEBOOK FRIENDS Join more than 10,000 people who are fans of Apparel Resources on facebook. Search for Apparel Resources at Decoding the garment manufacturing hub of Vietnam The recently concluded TPP agreement, with Vietnam as signatory, only adds to the other inherent strengths that the country has in apparel manufacturing from disciplined workforce to political stability. In 2015, Vietnam exported garments worth US $ 27.3 billion, employing 2.5 million workers and constituting a fifth of all new jobs created in the country. In a series of articles on Why Vietnam? both from a manufacturing and buyers perspective, Apparel Online brings views of many companies and individuals who are working in and with Vietnam. The first two articles in the series are from people who have chosen to work in Vietnam, one as a manufacturer and the other representing a buying office and their experience of the country. Robert Nicholson, Chief Representative of More UK Ltd. and Anil Mishra, Country Manager, Asmara Vietnam, share what makes Vietnam an exciting hub for garment manufacturing and sourcing Asmara in Vietnam Business growing on the inherent strengths of the country Asmara is predominantly sourcing outerwear from Vietnam Apparel manufacturing was introduced to Vietnam by the communist countries of similar ideology in the 1980 s, specifically with Policy of economic reforms initiated in Vietnam in 1986 with the goal of creating Vietnamese economy liberalized its trade policies. For a brief period thereafter, the Europeans exerted influence in this domain. But blitzkrieg was delivered in the former US President Bill Clinton s regime as the trade lines between the US and Vietnam was revived at an unprecedented rate, taking the apparel export turnover of mere US $ 5 billion in 2005 to US $ 25 billion (2015) in a decade s time. A key role in strengthening the exports from the country has been played by international buying houses who have successfully tapped the country s potential to the mutual advantage of both. Anil Mishra, Country Manager, Asmara Vietnam, one such buying house, presents why Vietnam is the preferred destination and how the Vietnamese operations of Asmara have shaped up since its entry in Having spent 12 years in Vietnam and developed the business for Asmara from scratch, Anil understands the country, its people and also how to synergize the sourcing needs of Asmara with the inherent strengths that the country has. From identifying the product that should be sourced to which factory is best suited, Asmara VN is a champion of the game. Products sourced While Asmara as a Group has been known for its competence in sourcing high-fashion garments, Asmara Vietnam is predominantly sourcing outerwear from Vietnam. Whether they re down jackets, padded jackets, fake down, eco-down, quilted jackets, technical jackets, seam-sealed jackets (men s and women s both) Vietnam can do it all, Anil informs. For Asmara the second strongest category thereafter is bottoms, and followed by contemporary wear which includes blazers, dress pants and blouses. Today, Asmara Vietnam generates around 20 per cent of the total business and the turnover is in the range of 18 to 20 per cent. The numbers go on to exemplify the significance of the Group s Vietnamese sourcing arm. Vietnam s next strength is its competence in circular knits the expertise although belongs to Koreans and Taiwaneseorigin factories in the region, and Asmara is not looking in that areas as 30 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

31 AO SERIES Whether they re down jackets, padded jackets, fake down, ecodown, quilted jackets, technical jackets, seamsealed jackets (men s and women s both) Vietnam can do it all. In 2008, 12 collections business was hard to believe, because back then factories knew about 2 or 4 collections. Anil Mishra, Country Manager, Asmara Vietnam of now as it has other regions equally competent for the product. Building agility into systems Another differentiator for Asmara Vietnam is its ability to source 12 collections per buyer a year a model that Asmara VN has practiced since its inception in the country. In 2008, 12 collections business was hard to believe, because back then factories knew about 2 or 4 collections only, Anil recounts. To break the paradigm, the first thing Asmara VN did was to approach fashion schools in Vietnam and train the students to understand the importance of fast fashion cycle. Concepts of how important is product development and delivery, were detailed on to shape the young minds. Lead time, product development, faster cycle and R&D are crucial to Asmara s DNA. That is also how we crafted a niche in Vietnam for ourselves, Anil avers. Today the average age of the 142-people strong Asmara team is 29 years, who are from 10 different nationalities which includes Italian, French, German, Dutch, Philippians, Cambodian, Sri Lankan, and Japanese, Indian alongside Vietnamese. At the core lies the product and as a thumb rule Asmara provides qualityinspected products on time to its buyers. Quality Assurance teams from the company are deployed at all the factories to conduct production and planning meeting and SOP follow-ups. The company also conducts several training programmes to keep its team abreast of the latest developments in the field of fashion and resources. We even bring in personnel from factories in different regions together and do the brain storming sessions, shares Anil on how factories are made a part of the process instituting paradigm shifts. Even the Project Asmara Knowledge Bank was commenced on the same strain, which includes training modules for developing product knowledge for youngsters who join the trade, even from the buyer s end, with zero knowledge, notes Anil. These are the guys who are giving us orders, and they need to know about manufacturing and have to gain product knowledge as integral part of supply chain. Thus there are all the more reasons to impart training at the entry level and keep the system agile, concludes Anil. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 31

32 AO SERIES APPAREL RESOURCES NEWSLETTERS To subscribe, send us an at FACEBOOK FRIENDS Join more than 10,000 people who are fans of Apparel Resources on facebook. Search for Apparel Resources at Decoding the garment manufacturing hub of Vietnam Vietnam, an exploding potential Chief Representative of More UK Ltd. The company specializes in structured ladies garment manufacturing Vietnam s rise as a garment hub is a direct outcome of a combination of factors. Political stability, skilled and educated workforce, excellent infrastructure like sea ports, international airports and modern highways is how Robert Nicholson, Chief Representative of More UK Ltd. in Vietnam, describes shaping up of the country s apparel sector, which is strongly emerging as the clear leader in low-cost manufacturing and sourcing, accounting for almost 25 per cent of the country s total GDP. Sensing the vast opportunities that the sector holds, Vietnam has taken a giant leap from CMT operations till recently, to offering FOBs now. Woven continues to hold sway in Vietnam although knit is also coming up strongly. The country is very strong in ladies garments and outerwear, and also offers specialized items like sportswear, workwear, down jackets and skiwear Lingerie, swimwear, men s casual and formal shirts and trousers are also emerging strongly being manufactured in substantial quantities now. There are also many fully vertically-integrated denim factories with washing facilities in the country, maintains Robert (popularly known as Bob), a Scotsman married to a Vietnamese national, who has two-decade-long association with the country s apparel industry during which he helped build numerous companies, bring in new business for them and help develop the skill-set of the local workforce to international standards. Yes there still are many expats like Sri Lankans, Indians, Filipinos, Koreans Japanese, Europeans and Americans, but their number is much less now. Forward-thinking companies have invested in in-house training and brought in the expats to teach the locals; some companies even send their staff overseas for further training. The Government has also invested in good technical colleges to train people in different domains of garment manufacturing, says Robert about the country s mostly English-speaking workforce who have an astonishing literacy rate of 94 per cent and are efficiently trained by technically-advanced institutions, like the Hanoi University of Science and Technology s School of Textile, Garment Technology and Fashion Design, Ho Chi Minh City Vinatex Economic-Technical College (formerly Thu Duc School for Garment Technical Workers) and the likes. No wonder, Robert holds the young local workforce of Vietnam 70 per cent of who are women and 30 per cent men but enjoying the same wages and benefits, and growing annually at a rate of around 1.5 million in high esteem. A specialist in women s wear whose company manufactures ladies items like coats, jackets, trousers, skirts and blouses in Vietnam for clients such as Bon Marche, Primark, Acadia Group Peacocks in the UK, besides catering to other European, US, Australian and South American markets like Uruguay and Argentina, Robert foresees the Woven continues to hold sway in Vietnam although knit is also coming up strongly. The country is very strong in ladies garments and outerwear, and also offers specialized items like sportswear, workwear, down jackets and skiwear Robert Nicholson, Chief Representative of More UK Ltd. (2nd from left) 32 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

33 AO SERIES next phase of growth coming in from the tax benefits offered by the Government to the start-ups, free trade agreements like the ASEAN, Vietnam-EU Free Trade Agreement (VEFTA), FTA between Vietnam and the Eurasian Economic Union (EEU) comprising Russia, Armenia, Belarus, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, and the proposed Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP), expected to bring home huge foreign investments. Japanese have invested heavily in Vietnam and that is good for the local apparel industry as they bring along good work culture, practices and knowledge. Contributions from other countries are also noteworthy, leading to healthy competition which is good for the business, observes Robert, adding, State-owned semi-government organization Vinatex (that controls many staterun factories and contributes around 15 per cent of total exports from Vietnam) has also invested in fabric development and new technologies, besides good number of Korean and Chinese companies, who are also setting up fabric mills in the country. Vietnam s domestic supply of the raw materials currently accounts for around 35 per cent, which according to reports has potentials to reach 50 per cent in the next five years, thereby allowing the country to position itself as a global leader in garment production. ESSENTIALS Yes there still are many expats like Sri Lankans, Indians, Filipinos, Koreans, Japanese, Europeans and Americans, but their number is much less now. Forward-thinking companies have invested in inhouse training and brought in the expats to teach the locals. Robert Nicholson JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 33

34 WORLD WRAP APPAREL RESOURCES NEWSLETTERS To subscribe, send us an at FACEBOOK FRIENDS Join more than 10,000 people who are already fans of Apparel Resources on facebook. Search for Apparel Resources at Made in China from cheap to luxury! China not losing its global market share anytime soon Though China s growing appetite and demand for international luxury is known globally, but what is often overlooked is the fact that many Chinese brands are taking advantage of the country s advanced manufacturing sector by balancing high production standards with relatively low costs. According to the data released by The Economist, over the past 25 years, China s share of global manufacturing output has risen from 3 per cent to nearly 25 per cent by value, and if the supply chains that Chinese firms drive across other parts of Asia are taken into account, then the figure rises to nearly 50 per cent. But when it comes to the global fashion manufacturing output, China s share is even greater. Currently, producing 60 per cent of the world s shoes and exporting 43 per cent of the world s clothing, China is indispensable for designers, brands and retailers across the globe from fast fashion to luxury. Currently, there is a wealth of local talent whose design labels are being offered by e-tailers such as Shangpin.com, which is the largest luxury and fastfashion online shopping platform in China, offering collections from almost 80 Chinese brands and is also the first fashion retailer selling authorized in-season designer collection of partner brands in China. The success of the e-tailer is mostly because the designers selling on the site have travelled, explored and studied globally, which has enabled them to evolve at a phenomenally fast pace. Also, it ESSENTIALS According to CEIC Analysts, apart from the shock caused by the financial crisis in , one reason behind the decline is that after years of the economy sky-rocketing, the wages of Chinese garment workers have doubled, resulting in higher costs of production. helps to have easy access to the top-quality manufacturers locally meeting international standards and delivering under tight deadlines at affordable prices. Moreover, these designers incorporate subtle or distinctive Chinese elements into their prints, something that the Chinese consumers can identify as a cultural reference. When local culture is entwined with international standards, the results are powerful, especially when the quality and the right pricing are attractive to local consumers, in comparison to the likes of Gucci or Prada. The local production is an added advantage, not only on price, but on delivery also. Pricing for a special dress or suit, by high-end local designers on Shangpin.com, would typically be anywhere between US $ , a few having the options of next day delivery as well. Increasingly Made in China designers are becoming popular with Chinese fashion-conscious consumers who often look out for standout fashion and with limited number of pieces among these local brands, it leave little room for it being mass rather than class, assuring exclusivity. Apart from this local thrust, the Made in China label can be found in every American and European s closet giving impetus to China s growing wealth. However much the world may want to move away from the country in manufacturing, there are very few options available where the same 34 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

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36 WORLD WRAP APPAREL RESOURCES NEWSLETTERS To subscribe, send us an at FACEBOOK FRIENDS Join more than 10,000 people who are fans of Apparel Resources on facebook. Search for Apparel Resources at standards in quality and quantity can be offered. The GDP per capita of China in 2015 was more than 16 times of that in 1980 as China has been producing labour-intensive products and selling them to the rest of the world since the 1970s, and increasingly so in successive decades, gaining market share. Today, luxury brands such as Burberry, Armani, and Prada manufacture in China not just because it is cheap but also because they are still able to get good workmanship for the price. In fact, a lot of international brands still continue to source from China despite increasing prices due to their experiential labour force. Nevertheless, like other manufacturing sectors, China s apparel, footwear and textile industry is currently facing challenges such as higher production costs and rising wages as competition from cheaper sourcing hubs in Asia and Africa and a global economic crisis loom over. At a time when the Chinese Government is introducing policies to tilt the economy, from manufacturing to services and creating a tougher regulatory environment, there is no doubt that China s fashion manufacturing sector is under pressure. According to CEIC Data, some large clothing retailers with ESSENTIALS Today, luxury brands such as Burberry, Armani, and Prada manufacture in China not just because it is cheap but also because they are still able to get good workmanship for the price. In fact, a lot of international brands still continue to source from China despite increasing prices due to their experiential labour force. global coverage have shifted a portion of their production to Bangladesh and have gradually reduced their use of Chinese factories. In some cases, it is the Chinese contractor who is taking their know-how and partnering with firms elsewhere in order to retain the business of the big international clothing brands. In other cases, international retailers are finding the Bangladesh firms themselves and building new relationships; relationships that for decades united American clothing companies with the Chinese. Meanwhile, even as the Chinese labour force has stepped up on productivity and skill level to compete in other industries, there is a growing push towards other areas apart from fashion manufacturing. This means that better productivity gains and automation in Chinese factories is leading to China gradually shifting its focus from making Nikes and Ralph Lauren polo shirts, to making iphones and laptops. But nonetheless with a new breed of well-informed designers that are making their foray in the local arena and also the already well-trained labour workforce, it is surely making it irresistible for many retailers to produce in China despite challenges such as increasing manufacturing costs. Gap closing all Old Navy stores in Japan; going to file for bankruptcy! Gap is closing all of its Old Navy stores in Japan. Overall, it will close 75 outlets outside of North America, including some of its banana republic stores. This closing will also help the company save US $ 275 million. The decision came after the company reported a 47 per cent drop in first-quarter profits, with revenue falling almost 6 per cent. Now Old Navy will focus on the US market as well as China and Mexico. On the other hand, there are reports in western media that Gap is going to file for bankruptcy, despite sounding a reckless prediction, report says that looking to downward spiral Gap will not survive without a radical restructuring only made possible by US Bankruptcy Court. JCPenney may decrease dependency on apparel Getting 57 per cent of its revenue from apparel, JCPenney feels that weak apparel sales are a big problem, and changing apparel will involve a major re-thinking for a retailer with billion-dollar clothing brands like St. John s Bay. Total sales in the first quarter fell 1.6 per cent to US $ 2.8 billion and net loss fell 54.7 per cent to US $ 68 million. Candidly, our over-reliance on apparel hurt us at times in the first quarter, said JCPenney CEO Marvin Ellison. He further added, We know we must continue to pivot our merchandise assortment toward less weathersensitive categories while providing customers with more reasons to shop in our stores. We re taking square footage away from apparel. 36 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

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38 VIETNAM & BEYOND THE LATEST NEWS For the latest news on apparel and textile, make sure that you visit HAVE YOUR SAY Write to Apparel Resources, B-32, South Extension-1, New Delhi (110049), India or Vietnam zooms past China as top' manufacturing location A recent report released by the Korea Trade-Investment Promotion Agency (KOTRA) suggests that Vietnam has topped the list of most-preferred manufacturing locations by companies worldwide. This can be attributed to the recent trade agreements signed by Vietnam, along with cheaper workforce. KOTRA considered 31 of the latest manufacturing plants that were set up or transferred in the six most probable production base countries, viz. China, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Mexico, and Vietnam, out of which, maximum number of companies were found to have already entered Vietnam or are in the process of moving into the country. Out of the factories that were transferring their setups, 11 plants were preparing to shift from China, out of which four were headed towards Vietnam. The Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) that was signed recently by Vietnam also plays a major role in this pattern shift, as it will reduce 18,000 tariffs, apart from solving issues regarding intellectual property, environment, investment regulations, and labour. Labour-intensive industries such as textile and apparel companies tend to favour Vietnam over China as the mainland no more offers a cheap workforce, said Jang Soo-young, Analyst at KOTRA. Vietnam is also a part of the ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) economic community and Asia Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB). While being a part of ASEAN economic community is a lower recognized fact in the country, being a part of AIIB will help Vietnam with funding for basic business infrastructure construction. MoT (India) sets US $ 20 billion apparel export target for fiscal Sources have revealed to Apparel Online that Ministry of Textiles (MoT), India has given a target of US $ 20 billion to the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) for the financial year , while AEPC had already set a target of US $ billion for same fiscal against the probable performance of US $ 17 billion in the financial year To achieve the proposed target, a growth of per cent is required, which is a difficult task considering that in the last fiscal export from India grew only 1 per cent in US Dollar value and by 8 per cent in Rupee term. Not only that, there are many more challenges like 14 of India s top 20 destinations have shown a decline in export this year. The European Union, which is the largest destination for Indian apparel exporters, has shown a drop of 7.6 per cent and even the last quarter was sluggish. Moreover, it is believed that after signing of TPP, Vietnam is one of the major signatories, and India may lose its competitiveness in the US market. 38 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

39 VIETNAM & BEYOND Bangladesh's DBL Group mulls garment factory in Ethiopia Encouraged by the duty benefits enjoyed by certain African nations to the US markets, leading Bangladeshi garment manufacturer and exporter, DBL Group, is planning to set up a US $ 100 million integrated textile and garment factory in the Tigray region of Ethiopia, claims media reports. The new factory will go into production by February next year. We expect to employ 3,500 workers. Of them, 150 will be employed as executives all from Bangladesh, reportedly informed a senior DBL official to a Bangladesh daily, adding, We are going to Ethiopia as this African nation enjoys zero-duty benefits from the United States on exports. The benefits will continue for a long time as Ethiopia is a member of the Least Developed Countries (LDCs). For construction work of the project reportedly a debt-funded venture of DBL (and not a joint venture) the Bangladeshi conglomerate has reportedly obtained US $ 15 million in loans from the Swedish Government s development fund Swedfund at an interest rate of 6 per cent and another US $ 55 million from the Ethiopian Development Bank at nearly 7 per cent. We aim to export to the US and European, African and Middle Eastern countries from Ethiopia, the DBL official maintained to the daily newspaper, adding, DBL is a Platinum-rated apparel supplier to Swedish retail giant H&M and our main target is to supply to them. MA Jabbar, Managing Director, DBL Group It may be mentioned here that Bangladesh, despite being an LDC, does not enjoy duty benefit from the USA as the American Government suspended its Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) in June On the other hand, US Government renewed the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) last year for the African LDCs for the next 10 years to provide zero duty benefits on exports. IndustriALL to transform global textile and garment industry Recently union leaders from across the world met in Frankfurt for IndustriALL s first world conference on the textile and leather sector, discussing the challenges and achievements. Around 135 representatives from over 60 textile and garment unions from 35 countries came together to talk about the issues like organizing workers, living wages and industrywide collective bargaining. One of the leading topic of discussion at the two-day conference was confronting global capital and during a panel debate with union leaders as well as company representatives from H&M and Inditex, global framework agreements (GFAs) were discussed as a way of boosting global union solidarity. IndustriALL has three GFAs in the sector. The two with the H&M and Inditex, protect the rights of 3 million garment workers. Speaking at the conference, Rob Wayss, Executive Director of the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, said that the Accord is changing how the garment industry operates. He further added, It is real and it has teeth. It is protecting workers in Bangladesh s garment industry. Till date, more than 1,600 factories have been inspected and many vital safety measures have been taken. Elaborating on the issue, Christina Hajagos, Textile Director at IndustriALL said, As unions, we have fought and we have risen from tragedy. A call to move beyond corporate social responsibility must be the legacy of Rana Plaza. Presenting IndustriALL s living wage strategy, which aims to introduce industry-wide collective bargaining linked to the garment brands purchasing power, Jenny Holdcroft, IndustriALL Policy Director, said that it is when brands and trade unions work together the real change can be made. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 39

40 TECH MANAGEMENT TO ADVERTISE Contact Rani Mahendru (512) GOING TO A GOOD EVENT? Send your industry gossip, photos and news to isaxena@apparelresources.com Industrial Engineering (IE) Concepts Retraced There is never enough being said about Industrial Engineering (IE), especially in the garment manufacturing domain. There are conceptions and misconceptions, there are viewpoints and sideline views, there are promoters and detractors, but Industrial Engineering (IE) is like a wholesome drink for the much sought-after balanced growth of any garment manufacturer. Before starting a new series, addressing this most relevant issue in a more organized manner, it is equally important to revisit the articles published in StitchWorld a renowned publication from India on Technology and Management in sewn product industry on the subject during the last decade. While the new series can be a ready reckoner for the industry, this is an awakener to realize your own strength and potential area that needs to be addressed. All articles have issue dates mentioned against them, so that those interested to read the detailed article can do so... Methods Improvements Through Workplace Engineering Paul Collyer StitchWorld, March 2008 Sewing workplace can be defined as sewing machine, material input and output bin, operator seating area and the horizontal and vertical space in-between. Workplace engineering involves scientific placement of man, material and machine to facilitate easy and quick execution of the operation. Not only the big manufacturers with huge resources, but even the smaller manufacturers with limited resources can utilize the basic principles of movement and with little imagination make significant reduction in garment work content at minimal cost. Given below are key principles of method improvement: The component must be stored as close to the needle point as possible ensuring that it does not interfere with the sewing operation. It should be stored in a position so that it can be presented to the needlepoint ready to travel in the direction required, i.e. it does not need to be turned through 90 degrees or more. Where more than one component is involved, then wherever possible, the operator should be able to pick them up simultaneously. Wherever possible, the operator should be able to grasp and release a component by only moving his arm from the elbow joint or failing that by engaging his whole arm from the shoulder and not having to move his upper body. Components should be stored in or as near to the same plane as the machine table. In practice, however, whatever the operation, many operators tend to store components: a) On their knees usually because they do not have the facility to keep them anywhere else or through habit. It is therefore necessary to lift the work to the level of the machine bench. As fabric is not rigid, when a piece is lifted it goes out of control and requires extra handling to position it again. b) On tables or upturned boxes, to the right of the machine. It is not possible to load components to the machine foot from the right. Therefore, the operator has to bring work to the entire length of the machine, transfer it to the left hand Disposed to knee Completed Front Pre-cut dart to be sewn Figure 1. Existing machines layout first sleeve seam Fronts are stacked on machine Front in pairs Figure 2. Modified machines layout Component 1 on raised shelf 7 to 9 cm above table slightly sloping towards machine. Shelf secured to edge of bench and re-grasp it before presenting it to the needlepoint. Examples of how to use low-cost improvements in an existing machine layout for sew dart/front seam in jacket front are shown in Figure 1 and Figure 2. The operator picks up with right hand at point indicated X. Note that it is grasped on the edge but not at the point to be placed under the machine foot, thereby necessitating a reposition and re-grasp. In this operation the fronts (in pairs) are on X 40 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

41 TECH MANAGEMENT a table to the operator s right. The movement sequence includes: Move the panel across the body, turning to right side. Reposition on bench. Align dart edges. Move to machine foot. Backtack and sew dart in one burst of sewing, auto cut threads. Dispose of by sliding onto knees. Move 8-10 fronts to storage on left. Of the cycle time of minute, the dispose of/load was taking minute. The existing layout breaks the rules as panels have to be moved across the body and up a different level panel. Additionally the panel has to be moved through 90 degrees twice as it cannot be moved across the body in any other manner. By changing the workstation layout to Figure 2, the dispose of/load time is reduced to minutes, a reduction of 41.3% and 20% on the overall cycle time. In this layout the operator collects from the machine table to the left (with extension) and can therefore pick up on the same plane, work on the garment and then dispose of to his knees as before. Usually work would be stacked nearer to the machine foot but in this instance, as the fronts are laid in pairs, it is necessary to give sufficient space for every other one to be turned through 180 degrees. The only additional cost in this case is a small melamine extension to the table. Methods Standardization Critical to Efficient Sewing and Cutting Section Reema Agarwal StitchWorld, March 2003 Today the use of PMTS systems is rampant; however the real benefit of using PMTS in sewing floor is still elusive. More often than not, more than one method of handling the materials, presenting the components to the machine foot, pivoting, re-grasping, aligning and folding are possible and PMTS is a tool to standardize the methods. If the exact method is not explained in the I II 1 Operation sequence Facing and coin pocket 2 PMTS and if the same method is not explained to the operator, there can be variations in methods. And slight variations in the method could lead to variations in time taken to perform the operations such as line balancing, piece rate calculation, target setting and productivity calculation. In such cases, the whole purpose of standardization of methods using this modern technique thus gets lost. A simple sewing operation of attaching coin pocket to the facing in a denim trouser requires a facing and coin pocket (pre-hemmed). In this case, we can start either at point 1 or at point 2. If we start at point 1, the stitches I can be followed either by stitch II or by stitch III. And accordingly we have three different operation sequences possible and their respective cycle times are: Thus, it is clear from the above example that one simple motion analysis can have more than one possible motion sequence, each of which may have different cycle time. So in order to maintain the essence of the sophisticated PMTS and derive the desired results out of it, it is very necessary to ensure standardization Operation sequence 3 4 Finished piece a) I II III IV b) I III II IV c) I III IV II IV III Time taken (min.) of methods by explaining the method step by step which is to be strictly followed by the operators without any deviation. While GSD is a well known PMTS for standardization of methods in sewing room, its lesser known cousin GCD (General Cutting Data) does the same for spreading and cutting operations. The Matrix within GCD uses a base operation analysis and re-calculates the standard time for similar operations using the variables of lay length and depth. Increments for lay length and depth are simply entered by the user and the calculation process initiated. From any GCD operation, standards time can be produced for the given variables, thereby eliminating the need to measure and produce individual time standards for every operation. It gives Industrial Engineers expertise to analyze and measure the cutting room activities, resulting in more accurate planning and loading which has the potential to increase cutting room output by 15%. Computerized Time Study Helps IE Team StitchWorld StitchWorld, August 2003, April 2007 and November 2013 Observing operations live and recording time from analogue or digital stopwatch by time study engineers are subject to manual errors. In a videographic option, instead of recording time from live operations, the engineers first capture the operation cycle in video and then observe the video to record the time. Here engineers can record the time at leisure and can rewind any operation, if required. This method ensures perfection, increases speed, reduces subjectivity and easy storage and retrieval of records. In the traditional time study technique, the important aspect of motion study is being ignored. The latest level of technology involves integrated video imaging using any inexpensive, basic digital video camera, loading the video file in the PC or a Laptop, doing PMTS FOR CUTTING ROOM While GSD is a well known PMTS for standardization of methods in sewing room, its lesser known cousin GCD (General Cutting Data) does the same for spreading and cutting operations. The Matrix within GCD uses a base operation analysis and re-calculates the standard time for similar operations using the variables of lay length and depth. Increments for lay length and depth are simply entered by the user and the calculation process initiated. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 41

42 TECH MANAGEMENT HAVE YOUR SAY Tell us your news by ing at BREAKING NEWS To read the latest sustainability news, go to the Video Time Study (VTS) to get the activity description and timing for each activity. The speed of the movie can be adjusted to accurately separate and document the motion elements, the time unit which can be either in seconds or in TMU (time measurement units; 1,00,000 TMU = 1 hour). Another software option is to analyze the multiple still picture wherein the frame interval selection is possible. The computerized solution eliminates any need for a stopwatch, clipboard, calculator, charts, paper or pencil in doing a time study. All one needs is portable PC running Windows software. The major advantage is that all calculations are completed instantly, and even partial results can also be observed on-screen as the study is proceeding. It reviews any existing work standard that you have, regardless of whether it was developed from one of today s predetermined motion time systems (PMTS), from a traditional subjective time study or from historical data. Requiring no subjective performance rating for a review all one is required to do is to enter a personal, fatigue and delay allowance, and the optional PF&D Wizard (Personal Fatique and Delay) will walk you through the process of establishing a new PF&D allowance or updating an old one, even if you ve never done a time study before. You can take all the results away from the worksite for more extensive analysis. But in most cases, you ll immediately be able to see and interpret results at the worksite! You can print the results whenever you need hard copy. The optional Database Output feature offers even more capability for analysis. The IT technology has progressed at a lightning speed during last decade and with the result there are lot of open source software solutions available in the market which can simplify the method study operation analysis. There are videos of time and motion study software which not only make the process 95% faster, but also increases consistency and traceability and improve costing and planning. Then there are next levels of computerization, where motion analysis software can be used to automatically track and accurately measure the movement of different body parts of sewing operator. Time study application can also be completely deskilled and computerized in a revolutionary method where sewing speed data are directly captured from machine in a non-evasive process. To top it up, the smartphone based time study using android application may become popular among new generation time study engineers. IE for Floor Layout Improvement Amit Anand StitchWorld, August 2003 A simple work measurement exercise brings out the reasons for loss of production and a simple work on layout planning can result in better material and man movement thereby increasing efficiency. This type of small improvement is embedded in daily work practice and workers should be empowered to carry out such practices. Cutting room The idle machines were transferred to this room Sewing lines Area occupied by The inefficient layout Sewing lines Cutting room Cutting room-1, now a centralised cutting zone Cutting tables were brought from cutting room-2 and were arranged here The layout after changes were made by the IED IT FOR IE The IT technology has progressed at a lightning speed during last decade and with the result there are lot of open source software solutions available in the market which can simplify the method study operation analysis. There are videos of time and motion study software which not only make the process 95% faster, but also increase consistency and traceability and improve costing and planning. The IE department of ABC Incorporates, examined the layout of the ground floor of the factory and found many faults in its layout. Adjacent to the cutting room-1 there was another cutting room at a distance of 50 metres. On the other hand there was an area of 20 sq. metres adjacent to the cutting room-1 that was being used to keep idle machines. The practical problems arising out of such layout was that the cutting master had to be on a continuous move from one cutting room to another to oversee the work. And because of this the operators in one of the rooms used to sit idle or while away their time when the supervisor was in the other room. The layout was also resulting in unnecessary movement of fabric and cutting machines. After taking into consideration facts like the total area occupied by idle machines, area occupied by cutting tables kept in the cutting room-2, and the area of the cutting room-2, the IED proposed some small changes in the layout. The changes resulted in better utilization of productive time. The cutting room was relocated to central production which made it easier for the cutting master to supervise the work. Also there was no need to carry the fabric and cutting machines from one cutting room to another. Such faulty layouts are commonly found in most of the Indian factories and probably it takes an IED to notice these and suggest relevant changes that improve productivity. Work Measurement Helped Improve Performance Amit Anand StitchWorld, October 2003 What cannot be measured cannot be managed, controlled or improved. Estimation of work is thus the first step in any target setting and/or performance improvement program. Work measurement is the application of techniques designed to establish the time for an average worker to carry out a specified manufacturing task at a defined level of performance. It is concerned with the length of time it takes to complete a work task 42 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

43 TECH MANAGEMENT assigned to a specific job. A company that has a fully functional IED found a unique way of identifying the impediments in the way of normal production. It was done with an understanding to improve productivity. The modus operandi was to record the targets for each operation on the hourly production card and the moment it is identified that an operator has failed to achieve the target in a particular hour; the supervisor was expected to ask him/her the reasons for it. It was found the operator failed to achieve the target because of: a) Factory failure like power breakdown, unavailability of cut pieces or accessories, etc., b) Slow feeding of pieces from the operation prior to that operation, c) Machine breakdown, or d) His inability to do that operation. Thus, at the end of the day there is a record that informs why in a particular operation the targets could not be achieved; what was the impediment (or the cause that killed the productive time) and based on this the management plans the production for the next day. Thus work measurement helps in comparing, knowing and improving upon the productivity performances within a factory. Critical Path Method Reduces Work in Progress in a Sewing Line Pradeep Jha StitchWorld, May 2004 Simple operation research principle of Critical Path Method (CPM) can be judiciously used for reducing WIP and Effect of improvisation on the configuration of critical path Hem button placket 0.7 Hem button hole placket 0.5 Hem pocket 0.3 Top stitch button hole placket 0.35 Total No. of operations on critical path 4 Total SMV of critical path operations 2.3 mins. Operation Sr.no SMV Front opening Hem button placket Hem button hole placket Top stitch button hole placket Mark for pocket and neck opening on front throughput time in progressive bundle unit system of sewing operations. While consultants play a major role in helping the manufacturers improve their bottomline performance, adoption of proven scientific principles still remain elusive to garment manufacturing. In a typical shirt (checks) manufacturing unit in India, the structure of the front section may be as given below. In such a structure, both the front panels move as a pair. Hence, before each operation, they need to be segregated and after execution of the operation, they need to be paired, bundled and passed to the next operator. In this situation the front bundle consists of all parts of the front, i.e. front block and pocket, and this bundle with all the parts moves across all operations of the front section. This makes conducting any operation on each piece more time-consuming and cumbersome for the operator. Iron pocket 0.7 Stitch pocket Open neck Match and set pocket on front Hem pocket Iron pocket Stitch pocket All operations are in sequence; no of operations on critical path 10 Total SMV of critical path operations 5.55 mins. CRITICAL PATH MANAGEMENT Simple operation research principle of Critical Path Method (CPM) can be judiciously used for reducing WIP and throughput time in progressive bundle unit system of sewing operations. While consultants play a major role in helping the manufacturers improve their bottomline performance, adoption of proven scientific principles still remain elusive to garment manufacturing. Now the same front is produced by following a slightly different procedure, viz. simultaneous parallel processing. In the new procedure the front panels are separated, pocket placements marked and pockets matched in the cutting department only. Further, instead of having one front bundle three bundles and three feeding points in the frontal section are created, each consisting of left panel, right panel and pocket respectively. While operating various pieces in the bundle, it is a must to adhere to sequence discipline; ascending or descending will not make much difference, but consistency does make a difference. Change in sequence order will only create confusion and quality issues. The above process results in SMV reduction. Benefit of simultaneous parallel processing is the smaller critical path, which means lesser throughput time for front section, hence quality problems will be identified earlier and also one will get much less number of damaged fronts, therefore rectification of the damage will be faster and reflection of this on the production will be minimal. However, the identification of bottlenecks is easier in the second case, since the front is divided into three small groups. In case of low production, a supervisor can easily trace which section is under-performing and accordingly take corrective action. Even the line balancing is easier in this case because it is easier for supervisor to see which sub-group is under performing and can be supported by an over performing sub-group. Supervisor or production executive easily gets to know the output of each sub-group. With these changes the productivity of the group will be optimum and operators better utilized. It will also be easier to balance the line as less deviation from pitch time is noticeable in the second case which makes balancing a less difficult task. This was basically the outcome of elimination of helpers from the production floor and their relocation in cutting. When the helper for operations 1,5,6,7 were dedicated for a batch they were substantially JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 43

44 TECH MANAGEMENT APPAREL RESOURCES NEWSLETTERS To subscribe, send us an at FACEBOOK FRIENDS Join more than 10,000 people who are fans of Apparel Resources on facebook. Search for Apparel Resources at Industrial engineer plans the workplace in such a way that the operator is provided with maximum ease, minimum displacement and focused operating technique (maximizing needle time). 1. Denotes the operator (hand preference, height) and the operator seating (height, width, back rest, width). 2. Denotes the machine type, folder position, knee lift position, needle positioning. 3. Denotes the machine bed (flat, submerged, raised, width, length, surface. 4. Denotes the centre bench (material pick-up position, distance from operator). 5. Denotes workaid provided (extensions, carousels, trolleys, clamp, stands, trays, etc). 6. Denotes disposal equipment (stackers, stands and bins). underutilized; now with their relocation in cutting they can feed two or more batches and this enhances their individual performance as well as the unit productivity. Ergonomics Play Crucial Role in Workplace Design Suresh Dureja Ravi Vidyanathan StitchWorld, September 2003 Workplace ergonomics is an integral part of Industrial Engineering. There are many different ergonomic principles for productivity and efficiency improvement of the operator. Although tangible returns on such initiatives are difficult to accrue in short term, manufacturers have started adopting numerous such initiatives, sometimes for long-term commercial benefits and sometimes for scoring points in compliance parameters. Poor design of sewing machine systems, besides reducing productivity, can lead to many health problems for the operators. The angle of the head, lower than its natural position cause strain on the neck and shoulder muscles, and may lead to headache and some cumulative trauma disorders (CTDs). Normally, in the industry the operator is made to pick up parts from greater heights than recommended which can lead to back pain and strain on the shoulder and elbow joints. Repetitive motion caused by the foot pedal can lead to CTDs in the foot. Excessive noise and poor lighting can also lead to hearing and vision problems. The frequency of persistent neck and shoulder injuries increase with years of work and can cause permanent health issue. Ergonomics in workplace design includes: Principles of moving parts of the human body. Principles of ranking the extent of movement of finger to shoulder, the smaller the movement the higher the rank. Principles of arranging shop floor. Principles of designing equipments and tools. To analyze body part s motion and posture, risk analysis of such motions, and/or postures available are various software like Peak Motus ( Ergo Master and ErgoIntelligence ( which can be used to study motions and their effective optimization. Some of the proven work-aids, which affect a lot of ergonomic comfort and greatly contribute to operator performance, are illustrated below. Some of these workaids have been able to cut down the operator fatigue level up to 18%. These work-aids have proven to be widely used throughout the industry effecting savings in material handling reduction and minimum operator displacement. There are no work-aids which fit well under all conditions. They need to be e(r)gineered to suit the purpose. Give IED a Friendly Face Amit Anand StitchWorld October 2003 The conflict between IE department and production department persists. Resolving the conflict will increase the contribution and effectiveness of IE in manufacturing in a big way. It s an undisputed fact that an IED manager needs to be technologically sound, but besides that, he also needs to be an excellent communicator, as he would need to communicate with the line supervisors and operators on the one side and on the other he would be reporting to the top-most management of the company. In nutshell, he should also have a good understanding of human psychology and human behaviour. The primary duty of IED manager is to get the job done, remove all the apprehensions of the workers and give them a better understanding of the entire process of target setting, encourage them to express their doubts and make them understand the process by which the IED set targets (of course, in the simplest and lay man s terms). He should emphasize the person on whom time study was performed was also human just like them and not a machine and if he can perform an operation in a particular time frame, so can they. He should emphasize that as an operator they have more advantage in the sense that they perform the same operation in the sewing line for a long period of time (as they run large quantity orders) unlike the operator on whom time study was performed. Thus, they have the opportunity of getting more and more perfect with the operation, as their learning curve swells with time and hence they could have not only met the target, but even beat it. Thus IE should revaluate and revise the grade of the operator from time to time and ensure that they get salaries matching to their rating. The IE manager should also highlight that while setting targets the IED would take a minimum of 10 readings per operation, thus developing a pool of data, so that it could arrive at an average figure and negate any chance of relying on a maximum or minimum value. They should be properly informed about the type of allowances that was given to them and convince them that all their natural needs will be taken care of while setting targets for them. Once the targets are set, the IED should coordinate with their 44 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

45 TECH MANAGEMENT production counterparts and find out whether the targets were being achieved on the production floor. Industrial Engineer should try to find out the operations where the targets had remained elusive for the production team and should also try identifying into the factors responsible for it and either change the target or guide them. The job of IE does not end here, but it is just tip of the iceberg... IE is also responsible to investigate deeply into the reasons for lower production, extending a helping hand in analysing whether the problem is related to men, machine or material. Industrial Engineers when using PMTS should be careful and particular about mentioning the workplace, location of components and methods being performed by the operator while setting the target. More often than not same style is being sewn in multiple lines in multiple factories; centralized IE department gives same target for all lines/factories. But either workplace or location of components or both changes due to factory and/or operational constraints which leads to variation of timings. Reasons that lead to variation of methods are the different types of machine layouts, different lighting arrangements, different types of seating of operators, and the likes. The variations of timings create doubts over authenticity of the targets being set by industrial engineers and conflict starts between production and IE department. Improve Productivity by Overhead Material Handling System Team StitchWorld StitchWorld, January 2008 Studies showed that in garment manufacturing industries, material handling and other associated nonvalue added activities accounted for 80% of operator s time, leaving only 20% of the time for adding value and for actually sewing the garment. It became evident that efficiency in the apparel industry could be improved upon by eliminating the Special workplace tables for garment examination highly unproductive material handling procedures. It could be achieved by developing systems to convey garment parts from one workstation to another, in a coordinated manner. The use of overhead material handling system in sewing enables sewing in hanging condition thus reduces handling time during sewing. The hanger acts like someone is holding the garment component to be sewn at right distance from the needlepoint and at right height from the sewing bed, operator simply concentrates on the sewing area without getting bothered about the rest of the component handling. The system does not waste valuable floor space and required no major modification to the existing machines. The system eliminates bundle handing (tying and untying of bundles) and allows all the material needed for a specific garment to be transported as a unit directly to the sewing machine of any workstation. The system also ensures crease-free, soil-free transporting of cut parts and halfsewn components amongst sewing stations in a organized transparent manner. Improved transparency reduces the need for more WIP thus lesser throughput time. Study claims that implementation of this reduces the direct labour cost component by 9.7%. MATERIAL MANAGEMENT Efficiency in the apparel industry could be improved upon by eliminating the highly unproductive material handling procedures. It could be achieved by developing systems to convey garment parts from one workstation to another, in a coordinated manner. Method Improvement in Finishing Room Roger Thomas StitchWorld, October 2010 Typically, finishing involves postsewing operations like ironing/ packing, however there are also several non-value added operations such as inspection and corrective operations like thread trimmings, spotting and duplication of process to ensure there is no lapse in quality. At times the garments are examined up to five times, the threads are cut twice and the pressing is done twice. In all, the garments pass through 13 processes before completion. Standardization of method is not only important in sewing but also in finishing reducing non-value added work while maintaining the process quality. Operators who trim the threads should be trained to work methodically to a set pattern so that each garment is handled in exactly the same way, starting at the same point and progressing around the garment in a predetermined sequence to ensure that every part of the garment is processed prior to its completion. Special wire top workplaces are also recommend for thread cutting which allows removed threads to fall into a trough built into the table so that they do not land on the next garment to be trimmed, a bag is fixed to the bottom so that the thread are collected and not deposited on the floor. Similarly inspection also should follow standard method of start and finish. If a standardized method of eye movement is followed, the time taken for inspecting a defective and a non-defective garment would be approximately same. To eliminate creasing after ironing, the garments should be hung and continue to be worked on from a hanger. This will remove the final pressing process before bagging. Garments can have the odd thread removed on the hanger whilst doing the final check. The measurements should also be confirmed at this time. This process flow serves to eliminate duplication of operations and will dramatically reduce handling of the garments. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 45

46 DIRECTIONS BY Resurrect The Denim Board Shorts Tailored takes on casual board shorts are a new summer-friendly musthave. Look to longer shapes with a big and roomy fit for a contemporary feel. Pleats help control volume while adding a more refined appearance. Raw denims or compact sateen keep the shape structured. Chunky knits create a more relaxed beach attitude. ASHISH RACHEL COMEY TOMMY HILFIGER Cropped 5-Pocket The classic 5-pocket gets a sharp remake for summer, evolving with slim straight-fit and elevated hemlines. Top-blocks have a fitted low-rise shape. Looking to new stretch selvedge fabrics that gives comfort while maintaining an authentic look. ALEXANDER WANG 46 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

47 DIRECTIONS BY Trending this season, the classic and traditional denim with new intriguing, attractive and young framing details give this old classic a new look. The evolution of new finishes such as tailored raw denim edges give it a frayed look. Reverse backing helps get the washed out vintage look. Pigments in varying colours either tone on tone, or complementary contrasting tones, will be taking the focus from the black. The originality of the ripping off of the denim will be in this season. Truckers with hanging frays and pulled apart panels will be little more expensive but definitely must be tried. In terms of silhouettes, comfort will be focused more than aesthetics. Raging in the sun this summer in cool board shorts of chunky knits will give a relaxed beach attitude. The classic cropped 5-pocket with slim straight fit and elevated hemlines will help maintain the ethnic look. Culottes, a fast summer staple, will continue to fit the fashion wardrobe this season. New innovations will be seen in handcrafted embellishments on denim, exploring colourful floral motifs. A classic ruffled skirt will be experimented with a variety of fabrics, styles and washes. Overall, the urban street attitude of 1990s will bring in a boom with high-end fashion, blurring the boundaries of style and comfort. Cullottes Fast becoming a summer staple, the culottes is given a renewed identity for S/S 17 with all-american vintage laundries. Fits take on a cropped boyfriend fit with straight, wide legs and square top blocks. FAY BLUMARINE Decorative Denim Decorative references influence denim design with a range of decorative embellishments that add a personal and handstitched touch. Extravagant and luxurious florals in highcolour threads to sweet and simple 1950s-stylehearts appear as localized placements in seemingly random scattered arrangements. THAKOON PETER PILOTTO JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 47

48 DIRECTIONS BY TO ADVERTISE Contact Rani Mahendru (512) GOING TO A GOOD EVENT? Send your industry gossip, photos and news to isaxena@apparelresources.com Ruffled Skirt Ruffles feature in abundance across the women s wear shows, with designers experimenting across a variety of fabrics, styles and washes. Raw denims treated to laser burnouts and shredded hems offer a fun and playful element, while glossy Tencel mixes or bouclé denims add a softer and unexpected feminine twist. ANNE SOFIE MADSEN PUBLIC SCHOOL THAKOON CHANEL Urban Streets crossing of subversive A streetwear and active elements combines 1990s street culture attitude with high-end fashion, blurring the boundaries of style and comfort. An oversized relaxed silhouette imparts a laidback attitude, with outerwear pieces such as the cagoules, Harrington and trucker jackets alongside T-shirts rendered in raw denim. H&M 48 Apparel Online Vietnam JUNE

49 DIRECTIONS BY Fraying Technique Decorative Backing Fraying is a technique that can be implemented pre- and post-laundry. Post-laundered looks appear quite clean and fine. The yarns are thinner as they have not had a chance to swell after contact with water. The postlaundered fraying look is trending on more tailored raw denim looks. Pre-laundered frays appear puffy and are more obvious. This is due to the exposure of the frays prior to the wash or rinse steps. Both directions offer a unique live-in look, which complements consumer s desire for even greater authenticity and individuality. Reverse denim or tonal denim backing is updated to show more decorative patterns. Destruction has been around for many seasons with varying patch and repair options or cut-open widemouth slits without backing. For S/S 17, updated backings offer distinctive quality and individualism. These backings are applied post-laundry for cleaner looks, while pre-laundry attachments help to achieve a washed-out vintage look. These backings are not to be confused with patching or fabric attached to the fabric surface pre- or postlaundry. Coated Elements Totally Deconstructed Clean coatings that appear thick and leathery replace the all-over washed coated looks familiar in seasons past. No longer are we focused on black colours that resemble leather. These new coated elements are just that: elements used as accent or decorative pieces to add individuality to denim garments. Pigments in varying colours are used on mostly raw or clean fabrics, which are tone-ontone looks or in complementary contrasting tones. Ripped, torn and even buckshot looks create a dramatic result. Denim pant legs with varying destructed holes and tears. Truckers with hanging frays and pulled-apart panels possess a cat-scratched look not easily achieved on all fabrics; test this one out thoroughly before locking in on a fabric. Overall, S/S 17 wash and finish look lean towards worn-in styles. This look is a little more costly, and necessitates consideration of the strengths and weaknesses of your processing centre. JUNE 2016 Apparel Online Vietnam 49

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