1. DESCRIPTION APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS BY FMV SUPPLIED MATERIAL PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS MANUFACTURING...

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1 1(54) M Vapenrock m/ä K1 Parade uniform jacket for soldier K1 M Ridbyxor m/ä K1 Parade riding pants K1 M Långbyxor m/ä K1 Parade trousers K1 Table of contents 1. DESCRIPTION APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS BY FMV SUPPLIED MATERIAL PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS MANUFACTURING QUALITY ASSURANCE MEASUREMENTS JACKET MEASUREMENTS RIDING PANTS MEASUREMENTS TROUSERS SKETCHES PACKING INSTRUCTIONS Confirmed: Date: Helena Lundberg Product manager Quartermaster materiel

2 2(54) 1. DESCRIPTION This specification is only for production of soldier s uniforms. Differences between officer s uniforms are mentioned only for information. Uniform jacket m/1895: Uniform jacket for soldiers K1 are made of wool/polyester fabric in mid-blue colour. The uniform jacket is single breasted, tight fitted and shaped by being cut off at waist. It is buttoned with eight uniform buttons at front with the lowest button at waist seam. The jacket has two breast pockets with shaped flaps. It has decoration flaps and vent at back, stand-up collar and permanent shoulder straps. In the waist seam two metal holders for belt are sewn on, one at each side The sleeves have figured cuffs decorated with lines of white band folded in a peak and with a uniform button. The stand up collar has two white bands sewed on horizontally at each side for decoration and is buttoned with two hooks and eyes. The uniform jacket is fully lined and on the inside there are two inner pockets The front edge, lower edge, flaps, vent, outer edge of collar and shoulder straps are decorated with white square braid. Uniform jacket for officers are equipped with loops for detachable shoulder straps, permanent shoulder straps to be excluded. Square braid and white band are to be replaced with square braid and bands in silver. At the left side of the uniform jacket, in waist seam, is an opening for sabre.

3 3(54) Parade riding pants: The Parade riding pants m/1895 for soldiers K1 are made of wool/polyester fabric in mid-blue colour. The riding pants are equipped with waistband that has a lengthened button strap, closed with button, hook and eye and a fly zipper. The trousers have side pockets and 7 loops for belt. The riding pants are in the side seam s lower edge equipped with a vent, closed with touch and close fasteners. The riding pants are cut off at the knees and have darts at back, witch are topstitched on each side of seam. Along the side seams, from pocket down to the vent, the pants have white, 35 mm wide, stripes. For soldiers the stripe is made of white band and for officers it is made of silver band.

4 4(54) Parade trousers: Parade trousers m/1895 K1, are made of wool/polyester fabric in mid-blue colour. The front of the trousers has a forward-set pleat at waist, one on each side. The trousers are equipped with waistband with a lengthened button strap, closed with 2 buttons, hooks and eyes and a fly zipper. The trousers have side pockets in the side seams. Along the side seams, from bottom of waistband until end of leg, the trousers have a 35 mm wide stripe made of white band. Officers have stripes of silver band. The leg ends are equipped with bottom binding and the back is 3 cm longer than the front.

5 5(54) 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS For documents mentioned in this Technical Specification, issues which are current at the time of the enquiry will apply. 2.1 TS Cavallery Twill 2.2 TU 1991:5 Technical requirements for pocket lining 2.3 TU 1991:6 Technical requirements for synthetic lining 65 g/m EN ISO 6330 Domestic washing and drying procedures for textiles testing 7. Washing procedure Table 1: Machine Type A1 Procedure 1A 92 C Procedure 5A 40 C 8. Drying procedure 8.4 Flat-bed press 8.5 Tumble dry 2.5 EN 5077 Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying 2.6 EN ISO 105-C06 Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering Two single-fibre adjacent fabrics 6. Test No E2S 95 C 6. Test No C1S 60 C 4.4 b) ECE Detergent 2.7 EN ISO 105-D01 Colour fastness to dry-cleaning 2.8 EN ISO 105-X12 Colour fastness to rubbing 2.9 EN ISO 105-B02/A1 Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test / AMD 2: References 1 to Conditions preferable for use in Europe a) Normal conditions Method EN Touch and close fastener 2.11 EN Touch and close fastener

6 6(54) 2.12 BS 3084 Slide fasteners 2.13 ISO 2411 Rubber- or plastics-coated fabrics - Determination of coating adhesion 2.14 EN ISO 2062 Yarn from packages Determination of single-end breaking force and elongation at break ISO 4915 Stitch types Classification and terminology 2.16 ISO 4916 Seam types Classification and terminology 2.17 SS Colour atlas NCS (Natural Colour System) NCS-Natural Colour System, address: Skandinaviska Färginstitutet AB, Box 43022, S Stockholm 2.18 EN ISO 9001 Quality management systems Requirements. Permissible exclusions: Sub-clause 7.3: design and development 2.19 FSD A4702:116 Ownership mark (crown mark) Size 3 Patterns, number are available through: Stenwall & Ljungkvist Datorgradering AB, Sagagatan 22, SE Borås. Phone no Fax no peter@sl-datorgradering.se. Patterns are digitised in Lectra-system. The supplier is responsible for any deviations that may occur if the patterns are converted to another pattern system. Ordered patterns and computer calculated markers, if needed, to be paid by the bidder/supplier. A model will be supplied by FMV in connection with the FMV production briefing to the appointed manufacturer. In the case of any difference between the model and this Technical Specification, the Technical Specification shall take precedence. If any documentation supplied by FMV should seem incorrect, FMV must be informed about this. No drawings or specifications may be altered without the agreement of FMV.

7 7(54) 3. BY FMV SUPPLIED MATERIAL The products below can be ordered free of charge (Free Carrier) from Swedish defence warehouse (FMCL) in Arboga, Sweden. Address: FMCL, Styrmansgatan 14, S ARBOGA, Sweden M Parade jacket: Point M-number Description Amount/ garment 4.1 M Cavalry twill 1.65 m 4.11 M White band 20 mm 1.20 m 4.11 M White band 9 mm 0.30 m 4.12 M Square braid 5.50 m M Uniform button 14 pieces Front 8, shoulder 2, sleeve 2, decorative flaps M Angled button 2 pieces 4.20 M Hook for belt 2 pieces 4.23 M Insignia, silver (40 mm) 2 pieces M Parade riding pants: Point M-number Description Amount/ garment 4.1 M Cavalry twill, mid-blue 1.31 m 4.11 M White band 35 mm 1.70 m M Parade trousers: Point M-number Description Amount/ garment 4.1 M Cavalry twill, mid-blue 1.31 m 4.11 M White band 35 mm 2.40 m

8 8(54) 4. PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS The workmanship must conform to the industry standard for the manufacture of quality goods as described below. Material provided by the supplier must be of the quality as required below and must be approved by FMV before being used. 4.1 Outer fabric: According to TS Cavalry twill. Colour: Blue as per colour sample. 4.2 Synthetic lining: According to TU 1991:6 Colour: Dark blue, as per NCS 9107-R69B 4.3 Pocket lining: According to TU 1991:5 Colour: Dark grey/black 4.4 Fusible interlining: The supplier shall before the production starts supply FMV with samples, 6 pcs of each interlining attached on fabric stripes 25 x 10 cm. The attachment shall be made in an electronic press-machine according to given instructions from the supplier of interlining. Washing test: 3 strips, unwashed. 3 strips, washed 3 times according to EN ISO 6330, program 5A with dry tumbling 50 C, the strips to have 10% of moistness left, and after that flat bed-press after each wash. Slitting test as per ISO 2411: Test to be carried out with two different samples of the interlining fabric. Adhesion of interlining fabric to be measured before the wash and after 3 washes according to EN ISO 6330, program 5A with dry tumbling 50 C, the strips to have 10% of moistness left, and after that flat bed-press after each wash. Requirement: Adhesion > 2N/cm.

9 9(54) Front: Material: 34 % Viscose 34 % Polyester 32 % Polyester filament or equivalent. Structure: Twill 1/3 some elasticity in weft direction Unit area weight: (incl. coating) Placing: Dimensional change: 80 g/m² 5g Front pieces, the side parts of sleeve holes, sleeve cuffs, vent and tail in front and back. Dimensional change of the interlining to correspond to the dimensional change of the outer fabric Details: Material: 49 % Polyester 32 % Polyamide 19 % Polyester filament as thread reinforcement. or equivalent. Structure: Unit area weight: (incl. coating) Placing: Non-woven with fabric reinforcement in warp direction. 50 g/m² 5 g Inner collar, collar flap, shoulder straps, pocket flaps, decoration flaps at back and piping s of inner pocket. The same interlining to be used in strips for the front edge and sleeve holes. Width 15 mm. Dimensional change: The dimensional change of the interlining to correspond to the dimensional change of the outer fabric.

10 10(54) Fusible interlining for waist band: Material: Structure: 100 % polyester Non-woven Coating: Polyamide, weight of coating: 15 2 g/ m² Mass per unit area: (including coating) Dimensional change: 70 g/m² 5 % The dimensional change of the fusible interlining to correspond with the dimensional change of the outer fabric Collar reinforcement: Material: 100 % cotton or equivalent with high stiffness. Structure: Coating: Unit area weight: (incl. coating) Placing: Dimensional change: Square weave with same number of threads in warp and weft. Polyethylene, 28.2 mesh 250 g/m² 5 g Collar, 2-3 layers. The dimensional change of the interlining to correspond to the dimensional change of the outer fabric.

11 11(54) 4.5 Breast reinforcement: Material: 30 % Cotton 25 % Viscose 25 % Horsehair 18 % Polyester 2 % Polyester filament or equivalent. Structure: Unit area weight: (no coating) Placing: Dimensional change: Square weave 220 g/m² 5 % Reinforcement for the breast part. Dimensional change of the interlining to correspond to the dimensional change of the outer fabric.

12 12(54) 4.6 Shoulder pads: For all sizes. Constructed according to sketch: Colour: Grey 2. 20mm Material: 1 and 5. Top plate and Bottom plate 80 % Polyester 20 % Viscose Filling linen Horsehair Wool Cotton 3. Filling 100 % Polyester Weight 200 g/m² 17 cm 4. Filling 100 % Foam Weight 25 kg/ m 3 Thickness 7 mm. 4.7 Locking wad: according to sketch Colour: Grey Material: Foam wad (needled) The locking wad must not loose fibres 58 % Viscose 42 % Foam Weight 120 g/m² 25 CM

13 13(54) 4.8 Band for hanger: 6-8 mm wide, of synthetic fabric, in the same colour as lining for hanging bands. See clause 10 for attachment 4.9 Adhesive band: Non-woven bands with paste on both sides, to be sewn on the lower edge of the jacket. The lower edge to be fixed in the seam allowances. The lower edge of the jacket can be hemmed instead. The lower edge of the trousers must be hemmed Band for inner pockets and synthetic lining: 6-10 mm wide, of synthetic or cotton fabric, to be sewn between sleevehole and the inside breast pocket and also at shoulder seam for attaching the waist lining White band 35 mm, 20 mm and 9 mm: Supplied by FMV. 20 mm and 9 mm wide, to be sewed on to the collar and sleeve cuffs. 35 mm wide, to be sewn on as stripes on the riding pants and trousers Square braid: Supplied by FMV. Sewn on to front edges, lower edge, flaps, vent, shoulder straps and stand up collar Selvedge band: On the inside of the pockets opening, of non-elastic cotton band. Width mm. The opening can also be reinforced with non-elastic adhesive band with thread reinforcement, 20 mm width. See clause 10.

14 14(54) 4.14 Edging band: Bias cut cotton band. Colour: Width: Placing: Same shade as outer fabric or black mm Leg ending on riding pants. Properties: Requirements: Test method: Colour fastness to light Min. 5 EN ISO 105-B02 Colour fastness to wash Min. 4 EN ISO 105-C06, 60 C Colour fastness to rubbing Dry Wet Dimensional change Warp/weft Min. 4 Min. 3 Max. 1 % after 1 wash EN ISO 105-X12 EN ISO 6330, 60 C ISO Bottom binding: Colour: Width: Placing: Black or same shade as outer fabric 19 mm Bottom at parade trousers Material Warp Weft Structure Width, alt width/ Yarn Number Material Yarn Treads thickness no. of no. /10 cm mm dtex threads Dtex Weight g/100m Colour/ colour no. fil PES fil PES 280 2x210 twill black/ same shade as fabric Properties: Requirements: Test method: Colour fastness to light Min. 5 EN 105-B02 Colour fastness to wash Min. 4 EN ISO 105-C06, 60 C Colour fastness to rubbing Dry Wet Dimensional change Warp Weft Min. 4 Min. 4 Max. 1 % after 1 wash Max. 2 % after 1 wash ISO 105-X12 EN ISO 6330, 60 C ISO 5077

15 15(54) 4.16 Touch and close fasteners: 100 % polyamide, with woven selvages on both sides. Tested according to EN and EN Colour: Mass per unit area: Width: Placing: Same shade as outer fabric. 310 g/m² ± 5 % loop part 350 g/m² ± 5 % hook part 30 mm Hook- and loop parts to be turned in the same direction. Leg ending on riding pants. Properties: Requirements: Test method: Colour fastness to light Min. 5 EN ISO 105-B02 Colour fastness to wash Min. 4 EN ISO 105-C06, 60 C Colour fastness to rubbing Dry Wet Dimensional change Warp/weft Min. 4 Min. 3 Max. 1 % after 1 wash EN ISO 105-X12 EN ISO 6330 ISO Zipper: Colour: Same shade as the outer fabric. The zipper can be made of metal, chain-width mm, or synthetic, woven-in spiral, 4.0 mm. Band-width to be 10 mm and colour similar to the trouser fabric. The chain to have a bottom stop and the slider to have an automatic lock device or stud stop. The puller must be foldable lengthways of the zipper. The zipper to be tested acc. to BS 3084 and consideration shall be taken to FMVs requirement. Test No. Appendix Unit FMV requirements 1 B N C N D N E N 5 F Cycles > G N H N 8 J N 60

16 16(54) 4.18 Buttons: Synthetic button: Colour: Material: Same shade as outer fabric Polyamide 6.6 or equivalent. Design: Placing: 27 with 4 holes. The surface must be even, mat and smooth. The button holes must be without sharp edges which can cause abnormal wearing of the thread. Waist band Parade button: Supplied by FMV If the order is excluding parade buttons FMV shall supply buttons to reference sample. Material: Placing: Metal with crown mark. Front piece, shoulder straps, sleeve cuffs and decorative flaps acc. to sketches Angled button: Supplied by FMV. If the order is exclusive parade buttons FMV shall supply buttons to reference sample. Material: Placing: Metal with crown mark. At waist seam in the back, above the decorative flaps Button pin: Supplied by FMV Attachment of button on the plates at sleeves and at the decorative flaps at the back, through all layers of fabric. Example: Button pin

17 17(54) 4.20 Snap fasteners: Material: Placing: 12, about 7 mm. The snap fastener to be attached with automatic tools, which must be regularly checked. The fastener to be closed and opened at least once before final control. Black oxidized brass To be attached in the corners of breast pocket flaps. Only through lining at pocket flaps Hook for belt: Supplied by FMV Material: Placing: Metal In waist seam at side seam 4.22 Hook and eye: Materiel: Placing: To be in non-magnetic material Mounted in waistband Inner measure of hook to be 11 mm 1 mm. The eye must fit the hook. To be mounted with special machine Hook and eye: Material: Colour: Placing: Non-magnetic Silver or black oxidized Mounted on collar stand The hook dimensions must be acc. to sketch. The eye must fit the hook. 18±1 mm 4.24 Insignia: Supplied by FMV Placing: On shoulder straps acc. to sketch, see clause 10

18 18(54) 4.25 Sewing thread: Core spun PES/PES or core spun CO/PES Colour: Same shade as fabric Properties: Requirement:: Test method: Colour fastness to washing min 5 EN ISO 105-C06, 60 C Colour fastness to light min 4 EN ISO 105-B02 Colour fastness to dry-cleaning min 4-5 EN ISO 105-D01 Dimensional change less than 1 % EN ISO 6330 after 1 wash Breaking force see below EN ISO Lock stitches, bar tacking & chain stitches: 400 dtex, Nm 25, Etik.nr 75/80 Properties: Requirements: Test method: Breaking strength Min. 25 N EN ISO Overlock, 3-thread: 280 dtex, Nm 35, etik. no 120 Properties Requirements Test method Breaking strength Min. 8 N EN ISO Buttonhole: 1000 dtex, Nm 10, Etik.nr 30/30 Properties Requirements Test method Breaking strength Min. 35 N EN ISO 2062

19 19(54) 4.26 Label: The position and size of text and figures as per the sketch below. Text and figures in black colour. The label material to be 100% polyester in silver-grey colour. Other properties Requirement Test method Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering 4-5 EN ISO 105-C Two single-fibre adjacent fabrics 6. Test No E2S 95 C Dimensional change warp/weft, after washing Max. 2% after 1 wash 4.4 b) ECE Detergent EN 5077 SS-EN ISO Washing procedure Table 1:Machine Type A1 Procedure 1A 92 C 8.5 Tumble dry Main label The text must be woven. The label must show: M-number Ownership mark as per FSD A4702:116 Year of manufacture Size Material Maintenance instructions Manufacturer Country of manufacturing Label in Uniform jacket: 3-4 mm size 3 6 mm 6 mm 2-3 mm 4-5 mm 2-3 mm 2-3 mm M XX YTTERVÄV: FODER: 55 % POLYESTER 45 % ULL 100% POLYESTER TILLVERKAD AV TILLVERKNINGSLAND C50

20 20(54) Label for Parade riding trousers with red tab at top. M XX YTTERVÄV: 55 % POLYESTER 45 % ULL TILLVERKAD AV TILLVERKNINGSLAND C50 Label for Parade trousers M XX YTTERVÄV: 55 % POLYESTER 45 % ULL TILLVERKAD AV TILLVERKNINGSLAND C50 The size of the label must be 70x50 mm. On the jacket the label to be mounted with top- and under edge tucked in 0.5 cm. Placed centred at the back lining, approximately 3 cm below the hanger, where it is to be attached all around. Size label to be sewn on at same time acc. to the sketch above. On the trousers the label is to be mounted on the right pocket-pouch, where it is to be attached all around, as described above. Ownership mark, Crown mark as per FSD A47012:116, size 3. Merchandise, that has been crown marked and rejected during production, or at delivery control, must not be sold by the supplier on the public market before the crown mark has been removed or obliterated (Act of law , SFS nr 498/1970).

21 21(54) Size label The text can be printed or woven. The size label to be sewn on, centred and double folded with seam allowance under the main label acc. to the sketch above. Size must be 15 mm wide and 10 mm high. The size figures must have the same width and height as the year figures of the main label.

22 22(54) 5. MANUFACTURING Sewing recommendations 5.1 For the ready-made garments to keep the measures according to the table of measures, no material must be cut during sewing. Each seam must be locked at both ends. No joints must be made in chain-seam. Thread breaks and ends of all seams and stitchings to be securely backstitched at least 25 to 30 mm. Tread tension to be well adapted to the construction of the fabric. Each seam shall fulfil the same requirements as the garment fabric with the same strength both length-and crosswise. 5.2 ISO 4915 Stitch types - Classification and terminology 5.3 ISO 4916 Seam types - Classification and terminology 5.4 Seam allowance for front edges, shoulder straps and decorative flaps must be 4-5 mm, side seams 20 mm and other seams 10 mm. Seam allowance for the jackets lower edge to be 30 mm. Stitch length: seams in outer fabric and lining 4-5 stitches/cm thread chain-seam, stitch type 401, seam type Uniform jacket: Sleeve-, side-, shoulder- and sleeve hole seams may be sewn with chain-seam. Riding pants and parade trousers: Outer-, inner- and crotch seams (crotch seam has to be sewed with double seams) are to be sewn with chain-seam.

23 23(54) thread shuttle-seam, stitch type 301. Stitch length: 3.3 stitches/cm. Uniform jacket: Other seams and all stitchings. Stitchings to be 2 mm wide. Riding pants and parade trousers: Pocket mirror on side-pockets to be sewn with 2 seam-stitchings against the pocket pouches. The inwards folded edges of the side-pockets are to be stitched with 5 mm width, reinforced by selvedge band. Fly facing, zipper mounting, fly seam and fly stitching. Bottom binding to be stitched 1-2 mm below the up-fold of the trousers thread over-edge stitches, stitch type 504 or 505. All open seam-edges shall be over edge stitched thread chain-seam with edging, stitch type 401,seam type : Waistband and crotch seam thread chain-seam + 3-thread overlock, stitch type , seam type : The make-up of side-pockets pouches. Can also to be edged together with binding Buttonhole machine, for eyelet buttonholes with bar tack. Stitch width 2.5 mm. The stitches to be placed close to each other. The buttonhole to be bar tacked. Wedge formed bar tack is accepted. The buttonhole thread must be firmly tightened and satisfactorily attached Button-sewing machine: Metal buttons at least 16 stitches per button. Synthetic buttons are sewn with distance. The button thread must be firmly tightened and satisfactorily attached

24 24(54) 5.12 Bar tack seam in special machine. Length of bar tacks to be 10 mm, stitches to be placed close to each other. Uniform jacket: Inner pockets to be bar tacked at the ends, both sides. Hanger to be double bar tacked in each sides Parade trousers: Opening of side-pockets to be bar tacked at top below waistband and at the bottom of the pocket-edge as reinforcement. End of fly to be bar tacked Loops with folded ends to be mounted with bar tacks. Riding pants: Opening of side-pockets to be bar tacked vertical at front dart below waistband and at back 1 mm behind side seam, through pocket seam allowances. Loops with folded ends to be mounted with bar tacks. End of fly to be bar tacked Hemming machine. Stitch type 401, seam type The up fold of the jacket to be hemmed with blind stitch or fixed with adhesive tape and fastened in the seam allowance. Up fold of trouser-legs to be hemmed with blind stitch Square braid: When sewing the square braid to the edge, the braid must be fully outstretched without being to tight. The square braid is sewn on close to edge in both innerand outer edges White band: All white bands are sewn on close to edge in both outer and inner edges Manufacturing of parade jacket: See sketches. Lining in sleeves: The sleeve lining is to be attached to the outer seam of the sleeve beginning 10 cm from the sleeve hole. At the inner sleeve the lining is to be attached from the bottom edge 5 cm upwards.

25 25(54) Sleeve hole: The waist- and sleeve lining must be locked at the sleeve hole wholly or partly with machine. At least half of the sleeve hole must be sewn by machine. At the shoulder the lining is attached with a Band for synthetic lining Pressing: The pressing of the jackets to be carried out very thoroughly, the shape over the breast, shaped by means of cuttings, must not be flattened out. Visible marks from pressing or shiny-press are not allowed Pressing of riding pants and parade trousers: Visible marks from pressing or shiny-press are not allowed. The darts of the riding pants and the parade trousers are to be pressed down on the head or towards the split-seam. The riding pants to be delivered completely pressed without creases. The parade trousers to be completely pressed and the legs to have creases. Observe! The seams to correspond to each other from bottom up to knee. In the crotch-tail the front-trousers to be mm behind outer-seam. Split joint may be made on men s trousers from size C52, however, the inner trouser-leg seam of the split joint, for ready-made trousers, must not exceed 15 cm.

26 26(54) 6. QUALITY ASSURANCE Supplier's Commitments The supplier shall establish and maintain an effective quality system that meets the requirements of EN ISO 9001, Quality management systems - Requirements. Permissible exclusion: Sub-clause 7.3, Design and development. The supplier shall provide FMV*, in good time before the start of production, with reference samples and material together with documents according to a, b, c, d, and e, listed below. The requirements in this Technical Specification must be fulfilled. a) Reference samples from the production plant where the actual production is placed: 2 Parade uniform jackets m/1895 0K1 2 pairs of Parade riding pants m/1895 K1 2 pairs of Parade trousers m/1895 K1 b) Test report from an independent laboratory, accredited to perform test methods required in this specification, for: Outer fabric Fusible interlining c) Test report from a laboratory, owned by the supplier or other, for: d) Technical data sheet, showing that the product fulfils the requirements, for: All included material e) Separate samples of the following components shall be sent in: 1 m each, of all fabrics, interlining, lining and bands, excluding the material supplied by FMV. Sewing thread on original cone with visible labels. All other included material: Two pieces of each article, incl. 6 fixed strips, 25*10 cm, of each interlining-outer fabric according to 4.4. FMV assesses and approves the received material. Buyer's Quality Control FMV reserves the right to review the supplier's quality system and to make manufacturing and quality inspections during the current period of contract in a way that FMV considers suitable. * ADDRESS: FMV: FMgem prod, SE Stockholm, Sweden

27 Back length Armed Forces General Services Office 27(54) 7. MEASUREMENTS JACKET Sleeve length is to be measured from the shoulder seam, vertical down to sleeve end. Back width ½ chest width ½ waist width SIZES C44 C46 C48 C50 C52 C54 C56 C58 C60 C62 C64 C148 C150 C152 C154 C156 C158 C160 C88 C92 C96 C100 C104 C108 C112 C116 C120 ½ chest width ½ waist width, buttoned ½ bottom width left side Back width Serie C50 Back length Sleeve length Serie C150 Back length from neckline to hem = Serie C50 Back length + 3 cm Sleeve length= Serie C50 Sleeve length + 3 cm Serie C100 Back length from neckline to hem = Serie C50 Back length - 3 cm Sleeve length= Serie C50 Sleeve length - 2 cm

28 28(54) SIZES B44 B46 B48 B50 B52 B54 B56 B58 B60 B148 B150 B152 B154 B156 B158 B160 ½ chest width ½ waist width, buttoned ½ bottom width left side Back width Serie B50 Back length from neckline to hem Sleeve length Serie B150 Back length from neckline to hem = Serie B50 Back length + 3 cm Sleeve length= Serie B50 Sleeve length + 3 cm SIZES D96 D100 D104 D108 D112 D116 D120 ½ chest width ½ waist width, buttoned ½ bottom width left side Back width Back length from neckline to hem Sleeve length SIZES E96 E100 E104 E108 E112 E116 ½ chest width ½ waist width, buttoned ½ bottom width left side Back width Back length from neckline to hem Sleeve length

29 29(54) 8. MEASUREMENTS RIDING PANTS Waist width measured around waistband. 20cm Seat width Measured 20 cm down from lower part of waistband. Innerseam Leg opening Normal length - smaller waist width SIZE B44 B46 B48 B50 B52 B54 B56 B58 B60 Waist width Seat width Inner seam Leg opening

30 30(54) Larger length - smaller waist width SIZE B144 B146 B148 B150 B152 B154 B156 B158 B160 Waist width Seat width Inner seam Leg opening Normal length and waist width SIZE C44 C46 C48 C50 C52 C54 C56 C58 C60 C62 Waist width Seat width Inner seam Leg opening Shorter length - normal waist width SIZE C88 C92 C96 C100 C104 C108 C112 C116 C120 C124 Waist width Seat width Inner seam Leg opening Larger length - normal waist width SIZE C144 C146 C148 C150 C152 C154 C156 C158 Waist width Seat width Inner seam Leg opening Shorter length - increased waist width SIZE D88 D92 D96 D100 D104 D108 D112 D116 Waist width Seat width Inner seam Leg opening

31 31(54) 9. MEASUREMENTS TROUSERS Waist width measured around waistband. 17 cm Seat width Measured around seat, 17 cm down from lower part of waistband. Inner seam Leg opening Normal length - smaller waist width SIZE B44 B46 B48 B50 B52 B54 B56 B58 B60 Waist Seat width Inner seam Leg opening

32 32(54) Larger length - smaller waist width SIZE B144 B146 B148 B150 B152 B154 B156 B158 B160 Waist Seat width Inner seam Leg opening Normal length and waist width SIZE C38 C40 C42 C44 C46 C48 C50 Waist Seat width Inner seam Leg opening Normal length and waist width SIZE C52 C54 C56 C58 C60 C62 Waist Seat width Inner seam Leg opening Shorter length - normal waist width SIZE C88 C92 C96 C100 C104 C108 C112 C116 C120 Waist Seat width Inner seam Leg opening Larger length - normal waist width SIZE C144 C146 C148 C150 C152 C154 C156 C158 C160 Waist Seat width Inner seam Leg opening

33 33(54) Shorter length - increased waist width SIZE D88 D92 D96 D100 D104 D108 D112 D116 D120 Waist Seat width Inner seam Leg opening Corpulent SIZE E92 E96 E100 E104 E108 E112 E116 E120 Waist Seat width Inner seam Leg opening

34 34(54) 10. SKETCHES Buttons: Buttons must be placed with the peaks of the crows turned upwards. Placement of buttons on the jacket: Front edge 8 buttons M Shoulder straps 2 buttons M Decoration flaps back 2 buttons M Waist back 2 angled buttons M Sleeve cuffs 2 buttons M Holder for belt 2 holders M

35 20 Armed Forces General Services Office 35(54) The button of the shoulder strap shall be placed 7 mm in front of the shoulder seam. The shoulder strap shall buttoned lay flat against the shoulder. The distance between collar and front edge is on the right side 4.5 cm and left side 2 cm. The top buttonhole to be placed 20 mm from front neckline and 15 mm from the front edge 4.5 cm 2 cm The lowest button to be placed in waist seam. The buttons shall be placed with the image as per sketch 50 mm mm 25 mm The buttonholes to be 25 mm long including the rounding. The front edge is furnished with 8 buttons. The top button is placed 20 mm below neckline and 50 mm form front edge. The lowest button is placed at waist and the remaining buttons are equally divided. The uniform jackets left front edge, lower edge, back vent, decoration flaps and half right front edge are equipped with white square braid. Both front edges of the uniform jacket are to be stitched 2 mm from the edge. The up fold of the jacket is to be hemmed with blind stitch or fixed with adhesive tape and fastened in the seam allowances.

36 36(54) Breast pockets: The sewn-in breast pockets with flaps shall in size C50 be placed 25 cm from waist seam. The pocket flaps to be fixed with reinforcement for Details. Pocket flaps to be in size C50; height at outer edge and middle 5.3 cm. pocket flaps width at top 11.5 cm. Pocket flaps to be stitched down 5 mm wide. In the corners of pocket flaps a snap fastener is mounted/sewn on and at corresponding place on uniform jacket. The snap fastener is only mounted in lining and seam allowances on pocket flaps. Pocket flaps width at top 115 mm. Pocket flaps to be in size C50; height at outer edge and middle 53 mm. 115 mm 53 mm 53 mm Pocket flaps to be stitched down 5 mm wide. The underside of the flaps and pocket mirror are made of synthetic lining. Pocket pouches are made of pocket lining. 130 mm In the corners of pocket flaps 2 snap fasteners are mounted/sewn on and at corresponding place on uniform jacket. The snap fastener is only mounted in lining and seam allowances on pocket flaps mm

37 37(54) Stand up collar: The collar is to be stiffened with 2-3 layers of Collar reinforcement or similar material with high stiffness. The collar is to be lined on the inside with synthetic lining, coated with fusible interlining for Details. Both sides of the collar are decorated with 11.5 cm white bands 20 mm wide. The ends are finished with 9 mm white band. The outer edge of collar is to be edged with square braid. The collar height is to be 5.5 cm excl. square braid. The collar is to be closed with hooks and eyes. 2 hooks on the right inside of the front edge of collar and 2 eyes on the left inside of the front edge. The hooks are to be placed towards the neck. The hooks and eyes are placed centred to the white decoration bands. The eyelets on hooks and eyes to be mounted by hand between outer and inner collar. On the inside on the right side of the collar, a flap, 7 x 5 cm, made of synthetic lining should be fastened. The flap to be coated with fusible interlining for Details. Hook Section A - A The hook and eyes are placed centred to the white decoration bands. A A 50 mm 70 mm 70 x 50 mm flap made of lining Min 60 mm The opening of the hanger to be minimum 60 mm. The outer edge of collar is to be lined with white square braid. B 55 mm Snitt B - B B Both sides of the collar are decorated with 12 cm white bands 20 mm wide. The ends are finished with 9 mm white band.

38 38(54) Shoulder straps: The shoulder straps are to be sewn in outer fabric with white square braid around. The shoulder straps are to be fixed with fusible interlining for Details. The shoulder straps are to be placed with 2/3 in front of the shoulder seam. The button shall be placed 7 mm in front of the shoulder seam. The buttonhole shall be placed 1.5 cm from the top of the shoulder strap. The shoulder straps shall buttoned lay flat against the shoulder. The shoulder straps should in size C50 be 14 cm. Eyelet buttonhole completed by bar tack placed 15 mm from top of the shoulder strap. The length of the buttonhole should be 25 mm including the eyelet. 15 mm 25 mm 14 cm in size C50 42 mm The outer edge of shoulder strap to be lined with square braid. Total width including square braid is 50 mm. The underside of the shoulder strap. 10 mm The 40 mm insignia shall on all sizes be placed 10 mm from the sleeve head seam.

39 39(54) Sleeve cuff: The sleeve cuffs are to be fixed with reinforcement for Front. Decorated with white band, 20 mm wide, folded to a point at top. At bottom the decoration is ended with 9 mm white band. The white bands are to be mounted before the sleeve cuff is sewn on to the sleeve. The outer seam on cuff is sewn together and there after mounted to the sleeve. A metal button is sewn on at the point. The folding of the sleeve shall be 4.5 cm. The sleeve lining to overlap and prevail the fold up with 1.5 cm. The sleeve cuffs are decorated with white band, 20 mm wide, folded to a point at top. At bottom the decoration is ended with 9 mm white band. A parade button is sewn on at the point. 1,0 cm 9.5 cm in size C50 Sleeve lining to overlap and prevail the fold up with 1.5 cm. 4.5 cm

40 40(54) Vent from inside: The back vent of the uniform jacket is edged with square braid. The vent is stitched down; leave a 10 cm long opening. 10 cm

41 41(54) Decorative flaps: The flaps to be fixed with fusible interlining for Details. The square braid is to be sewn on before mounting on the back tail. The width is to be 3 cm at the lower end and 1 cm at the top. One button without buttonhole are placed on each flap, through all layers of fabric mounted with a buttonpin on the inside or sewn on by hand. In the waist seam 2 angled buttons are to be fastened, well-sewn by hand. The decoration flaps are edged with square braid. The angled buttons are sewn above the decorative flaps, by hand with coarse thread, for example buttonhole thread. The seams are securely locked by backstitch. At the decoration flaps two buttons are placed. The buttons are mounted with button pin or sewn on through flaps and outer fabric.

42 42(54) Angled button and hook for belt: Right in side/ back seams an opening is made in waist seam for the angled buttons/ hooks for belt. The seams are securely locked by backstitch. The angled buttons/ hooks for belt shall be fastened by sewing by hand with very coarse thread, for example buttonhole thread, in the seam allowance. On the jacket for officers there shall be an opening for sabre in the waist seam on the left side, 3.5 cm wide and just after the dart. Angled button: Inside Outside Right in back seam an opening is made in waist seam for the button. The seams are securely locked by backstitch. Holder for belt: Inside Outside Right in side seam an opening is made in waist seam for the hook. The seams are securely locked by backstitch.

43 43(54) The pleat in lining centre back shall be 20 mm deep The label is to be placed 30 mm below neckline. Bar tack Bar tack Inner pockets shall be placed according to marks on each size pattern. The inner pockets are double piped and reinforced by bar tacks in the ends. The ends of the inner pockets are to be reinforced with a domestic band fastened in the sleeve hole. Pocket opening is cm and the minimum depth of pocket is 16 cm.

44 44(54) Parade riding pants The riding pants have 7 loops. The riding pants are cut off at knee and have a dart back at calf, witch are stitched apart 2 mm wide.

45 45(54) 10 mm 50 mm 40 mm The 4th loop is placed centred back. The waistbands to have mm infold at centre back. The loops are folded and bar tacked in top and lower end. The internal opening of the loops is to be 50 mm. Selvage band The pockets are edge stitched 5 mm wide. The endings of the pockets are to be bar tacked. Section cut from pocket pouch The riding pants are equipped with stripes, 35 mm wide white band. The stripes are folded over pocket edge and edge stitched on front piece along side seam down to led vent on calf.

46 46(54) Outside of riding pants fly mm The waistband has a 40 mm long extension. Buttonhole is placed 15 mm from edge. Inner measurement of buttonhole is to be 20 mm. The fly is reinforced outside with bar tack. Inside of riding pants fly. Waistband is closed with button on outside and hook and eye on inside. Fly facing is ended by 2-chain seam with edging or 3-thread overlock. Inside of waist band to be ended with 2-chain seam and edge folded. Fly lining, same as pocket lining, is reinforced with bar tacks. Riding pants to be equipped with lining in split-seam, bar tacked in seam allowances.

47 47(54) The riding pants are equipped with a 20 cm long vent at the leg end. The under part of vent is fitted with touch and close fastener, hook part, 3 cm wide, and the upper part with felt, 3 cm wide. The riding pants fold is edged with 7 mm wide black edging. Hook Felt 3 cm Reinforcement of lining

48 48(54) Parade trousers Waistband is to be cut from the same piece of fabric as the rest of the trousers. Parade trousers have a 2 cm deep pleat in front, at each side, turned towards the fly. The pleats are not to be sewn together below the waistband. The parade trousers are equipped with stripes on front piece, made of 35 mm white band, along side seams. The stripes are edge stitched. 3 cm incline from side seam to centre back.

49 49(54) Pockets in side seam: Pockets are sewn in side seams, starting 4 cm down from waistband. Pocket opening to be 15 cm. Bar tacked in both ends. 4 cm 15 cm Bar tack Lining Pocket mirror Facing Reinforcement band Outer fabric Stripes Pocket pouches are sewn in side seams, waistband seam and in pocket edge. The pocket edge is reinforced with reinforcement band before it is down stitched. Pocket mirror and facing to be overlocked at edges. Pocket pouches are sewn together with chain seam + overlock or chain seam + binding

50 50(54) Button 27 Eyes for buttoning with hooks. The waist band is extended 40 mm and with two button holes. Opening of buttonholes are placed 15 mm from front edge. Inner measurement of buttonholes are 20 mm. 6 cm mm 40 mm Fly stitching width 30 mm. The zipper is sewn in fly seam, stitched close to outer edge and along zipper. Length of fly in size C50 is 24 cm.

51 51(54) Section G-G Left inside Right inside Hooks G G The inside of waistband to be edge folded with band. Fly facing is ended by 2-chain seam with edging or 3- thread overlock. Fly lining same as pocket lining. Bar tack Bar tack Parade trousers are to be equipped with lining in splitseam, bar tacked in seam allowances.

52 52(54) The lower edge of parade trousers are to be edge folded with 3 cm incline from side seam to centre back. 3 cm Parade trousers stripes are folded round lower edge and stitched to the fold up. Min 4 cm The lower edge is equipped with bottom binding, attached 1-2 mm below the fold up. The fold up to be blind stitched.

53 53(54) 11. PACKING INSTRUCTIONS 11.1 Ordering of packing The order must be in writing and sent to: FMCL, Styrmansgatan 14, ARBOGA, SWEDEN. To state: - number of the current order, eg. LB-number - stock-number and stock-designation - desired number of boxes - number of labels per size FMCL encloses the adequate number of sealing tape required for the ordered number of boxes Spare packing 11.3 Types of cardboard boxes Terms for different boxes Size (mm) L x W x H The above mentioned packing shall be used exclusively in connection with the current order. Any spare packing shall be returned to FMCL, Styrmansgatan 14, ARBOGA, SWEDEN. forsdiv-fmcl@mil.se. Suppliers failing to do so will be charged for the spare packing items. No. of readypacked boxes/ pallet No. of folded boxes, bundled/ pallet Sizes (mm) of bundled boxes incl. height of pallet Weight (kg) bundled boxes incl. pallet No. of folded boxes/ bundle, tied up K1 M x570x x850x K2M M x400x x1200x Number of products per cardboard box Type of box: Number: Stock-number: Stock-designation: K1 15 pcs M Vapenrock m/ä mansk K1 K2M 30 pairs M Ridbyxa m/ä mansk K1 K2M 30 pairs M Långbyxa m/ä mansk K Information about the quality of the cardboard boxes The boxes are extra thick and specially treated for piling up and storing during longer times Sealing tape M The cardboard boxes shall be sealed with the supplied sealing tape in such a way that the labels are not concealed. The bottom of the boxes shall be sealed with a lengthwise sealing tape both on the inside and outside of the box. Figure Information about the quality of the sealing tape The sealing tape is to be wet with water in order to get affixed The sealing tape is specially treated to protect the products against damp and other damages.

54 54(54) 11.8 Packing Boxes not filled up N.B. More than one size in each cardboard box is not allowed. If all of one size does not fill up the whole of a box, the vacant space shall be filled up with other suitable materials. This filling must not generate dust or otherwise be detrimental to its contents. Exceptions, if any must be approved by FMV. Type of pallets 11.9 Marking Pre-printed data Figure 2. Data filled in by the supplier Position of the two labels The cardboard boxes shall be loaded on EUR pallets, 800 x 1200 mm. The pallets to be in perfect condition. The boxes shall be secured on to the pallet. The supplier shall free of charge supply the requisite number of pallets. Deliveries without required pallets will be replaced with new pallets. The extra cost will be charged the contractor. a) Stock-number (FBET) b) Stock-designation (FBEN) c) Number d) Size e) Number of the order f) Date of packing g) In exceptional cases, FMV may allow deviation from the stipulated number of pieces in the boxes in written form. In such cases both the bar-code and the figures are to be crossed out. The actual number of pieces shall then be indicated with a felt pen on the label. Figure 2. To facilitate the end-user's scanning, please attach the labels evenly over the corresponding box print. Figure 1. Figure 1. Labels Sealing tape both on the inside and outside of the box FBEN X X X X X X Figure 2. FBET M ANTAL STORLEK SAMMANF FBET M BEST NR LB00000 FÖRP.DAG År Mån Dag År = Y e a r M å n = M o n th D a g = D a y År = Year Mån = Month Dag = Day See packing instruction 6.1 Fill in

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