RIJSS Volume 3, Issue 6 (June. 2014) ISSN:

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1 A Journal of Radix International Educational and Research Consortium RIJSS RADIX INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF RESEARCH IN SOCIAL SCIENCE COSMETIC CONSUMPTION PATTERN AMONG COLLEGE-GOING FEMALE STUDENTS: A CLUSTER ANALYTIC SEGMENTATION APPROACH DR. K. G. SANKARANARAYANAN Associate Professor, Department Of Commerce Narayan Zantye College of Commerce, (Affiliated To Goa University) Bicholim Goa ABSTRACT College going girl students are one of the main targets of cosmetic companies. Differences occur among these students in terms of usage, amount spent, benefits sought, brands preferred and attitudes held. It will be of use and interest to both academics and marketers to explore whether different segments exist in this market and the characteristics of these segments. An attempt is made in this research to segment this market using usage, attitude and benefit perception. A sample of 120 college going students has been surveyed using a questionnaire and the data have been analysed using cluster analysis. This resulted in three clusters with differing usage, attitude and benefit perceptions (independent non believers, Heavy benefit seekers and dependent occasional). Cross tabulation of profiling variables with cluster membership and chi square analysis revealed no significant differences in demographic profile, behavioural characteristics, and brand preferences across clusters. The segments were found to differ in terms of their average spending on cosmetics with occasional being the highest spenders followed by heavy benefit seekers and independent non believers being the lowest spenders. The findings are of theoretical and practical significance. INTRODUCTION Use of cosmetics is not a latest trend. It has its roots deep within the annals of history. The cosmetics depict had found its origin in the 4 th century BC. Indian too has not remained far behind in the development and frequent usage of cosmetics. Household utility like haldi, chandan, etc. have been used over centuries to preserve the natural beauty of skin. The cosmetics industry, which started growing in the early 1990s, is expanding exponentially. With more women and men becoming conscious of their beauty and willing to spend on their grooming, this industry has been growing at percent for the last few 1 P a g e

2 years. No wonder now the shelves are stocked with a plethora of products and brands, targeted at various segments, catering to the various needs of customers. The enormous growth in this segment has not only attracted many MNCs but also provided space for many Indian companies to foray or expand their product range. An ORG-Marg study reveals that while most FMCG products were affected by the general slowdown, this segment witnessed relatively good growth in volume and value. Not only have more people started using cosmetics, they are also willing to pay more to look and feel good. The penetration rate is higher in the skin-care segment compared to lipstick. This means that consumers are willing to spend the extra bit to look and feel good, but also indicates the constant up- gradation from mass to premium products. Though mass products still constitute a major portion of the market, a certain segment is obviously ready to upgrade to the next category as disposable income rises. Increased media exposure and the willingness to spend more on personal care, consciousness about looks, and advertisements and promotions targeting various consumer segments are some of the reasons for these trends in consumption and penetration. The growth trends definitely send positive signals about the industry prospects. Though most players see huge opportunity in this industry, what would actually work wonders for the players is strong brand promotion, good distribution network, constant innovation and quality improvement, the ability to provide a variety of products and introduce affordable products without compromising on quality. Cosmetics are still seen as elitist products and may be the last thing on an average Indian consumer s mind. Though the low penetration levels for most cosmetics products suggest much potential, the market for cosmetic products may remain a niche market accessed by a small proportion of the consumers. The cosmetic segment primarily comprises of colour cosmetics (face, eye, lip and nail care products), perfumes, talcum powder and deodorants. All these are very small segments. Talcum powder is the most popular cosmetic product in India. This market is estimated at Rs. 3.5 bn and is yet growing at % in pa. Cosmetics awareness is very high with 80% having penetration of 45.4 % in urban areas and 25.2 % in rural areas. Literature Review Women are constantly bombarded with images of what our society deems as beautiful. As a result, many women tend to feel inadequate and their feelings of confidence and expectations of self are affected. When one s body is disliked because of deviation from norms of function or appearance, replicated evidence shows that anxiety, insecurity and low self esteem are regular correlates ( Jourard,1964).A study by Turner et al.(1997) found that the media shapes, rather than reflects, societal perceptions of the female body. In addition, they found that women s body image satisfaction is influenced by their exposure to the thin ideal presented in fashion magazines. More often than not, the images these women are seeing have been computer-edited and their models have been airbrushed and piled with makeup to camouflage any slight flaws that may, in reality, exist. 2 P a g e

3 For the most part, what a woman observes in the mirror is what she uses as a measure of her worth as a human being(lerner,karabenick,&stuart,1973).the majority of research on women and their self-esteem has historically been related to how they feel about their body shape and size (Trampe,Siero,&Stapel,2007). However, not much attention has been given to a particular action women can take to improve their self confidence-applying cosmetics. Cosmetics products such as foundation, mascara, and blush are a quick and impermanent means to improving one s appearance and thus improving confidence (Miller & Cox,1982). Cosmetics are a quick means of improvement versus more longterm, arduous changes such as diet and exercise. As only a handful of studies exist to date, there continues to be a need for more exploration of the topic in such areas as what role makeup plays in the lives of women, when and why women use makeup and, what is achieved with its use. Makeup is femininity made tangible. Makeup can mean a lot of different things to a lot of different women. For many, makeup is a way to invoke one s self (LaBelle, 1988). Using different products and colors, women can use makeup to explore and portray their own individuality. According to Beausoleil (1992), many women report having different makeup routines depending on what they expect to do during the day. Women often engage in specific appearance practices to distinguish between day and night looks, basic looks and looks for special occasions, etc.(beausoleil, 1992). Cosmetics serve as a sign of femininity in their symbolization of stereotypical feminine values. They are often seen as a way to enhance feminine beauty ideals and serve to help women to conform to our society s beauty expectations. Women are constantly seeking ways to change their appearance to fit the ideal of beauty which they are bombarded with by the media big blue eyes, clear skin, rosy cheeks, and pouty red lips (Poran, 2002). As cosmetics companies present the made -up face as ideal, many women use makeup as an attempt to conform to these images of ideality. According to Kelson, Kearney-Cooke, and Lansky (1990), there are certain pressures on women to meet culture standards of beauty, as well as rewards involved for those women who use cosmetics to reach these standards, such as increased attention from the opposite sex and idol recognition from other females. Cultural definitions of feminine beauty vary with regard to body size, skin complexion, hair length and color, and the use of adornments(rich & Cash, 1993), with cosmetics give the promise of change towards this ideal image(bloch & Richins, 1992).Many women may wear makeup with the belief that it will positively affect their level of physical attractiveness. A woman can use cosmetics to both hide the things she does not like and accentuate the things she does. Makeup holds the possibility for a woman to personally transform herself, resulting in an increase in self-confidence. A girl s initial experimentation with cosmetics in early adolescence can be seen as a rite of passage as well as growth towards developing a feminine identity (Cash, 1985). It is during adolescence that females typically become more concerned with their appearance, (Kelson, Kearney-Cooke, &Lansky, 1990). Theberge and Kernaleguen (1979) reported that as the use (and importance) of cosmetics increased, women s satisfaction with their bodies also increased. Studying the use of makeup by women by women is important to determine if there is a link between how much they wear and when, and how it affects their confidence in a given situation. Cosmetics are often a tool used for social self-presentation and self-image 3 P a g e

4 management. For some women, especially those of adolescent and college -age, wearing makeup is partly due to their concern for their complexion and how they feel about themselves when other look at their blemished skin. A blemish on the skin can lead to embarrassment, humiliation, or other negative bodyimage experiences, which in turn can diminish self-esteem (Cash & Pruzinsky, 2002).Using cosmetics, such as foundation and concealer, can help a woman hide facial blemishes and other abnormalities which cause her to feel self conscious. Such use of facial cosmetics may help to boost a woman s sense of confidence in her appearance, thus making her more self- assured overall. Several studies have shown that makeup use by women is associated with stronger feelings of attractiveness and femininity. Evidence also exists that suggests women apply their makeup according to the situation they are preparing for. It seems that women s appearance practices are almost solely, or at least largely, determined by concerns with situations, occasions, and audiences, (Beausoleil, 1992). Though there had been many studies on cosmetics use by men and women, the behavioural aspects of cosmetic consumption behaviour of female college students have been studied till yet. Thus, this paper attempts to explore the various behavioural dimensions of cosmetics consumption of female college students. The objective of this study is to segment the young female student cosmetic market with respect to usage, attitude and perceived benefits of cosmetic usage and to identify other behavioural dimensions related to cosmetics consumption. Constructs and Measurement Usage Usage could be classified into two related factors, usage frequency and usage dependence. While usage frequency is an external, behavioural aspect, usage dependence is an internal feeling of the consumer. While usage frequency is measured as the actual usage in terms of daily versus number of times a week versus occasional wearing of cosmetics usage dependence is measured as the feeling that one cannot do without cosmetics. Attitude Attitudes towards cosmetics vary for different persons depending on the social situations. Many wear cosmetics to impress others while some wear it for intrinsically perceived benefits. Persons who wear cosmetics in social situations to impress others are considered to be other directed while those who are not are considered to be self directed. This attitude has been measured by four items which represent need to impress friends and classmates as well as social situations like partying and interviews. All the four items have been reverse coded. Benefit perception The construct of benefit perception comprises of appearance benefits, building self confidence and positive behavioural outcomes. While appearance is an external benefit as perceived by others, confidence is internal to the person and behavioural impact is due to some positive feelings. Three items comprising 4 P a g e

5 the three dimensions have been included to measure the construct. Items representing the three constructs outlined above have been used as segmenting variables in the study. Profiling variables Profiling variables are those which are other than the segmenting variables which are expected to vary from cluster to cluster. These are variables of interest to the marketer which have some influence on the marketing actions that that the marketer can take. These are generally variable which will help in targeting the particular segment. For example the media habits of the segments could differ the knowledge of which could help the marketer to reach the segment. In this research profiling variables which have been used are place of residence classified into urban and rural, reasons for using cosmetics such as health, beauty and civility, frequency of purchase, factors influencing buying decisions such as quality, brand and offers, channels used such as departmental stores, drug stores etc., brand preference for certain cosmetics used by girls such as lipstick and nail polish. Besides these variables skin type as well as amount spent had been included for testing differences across segments. The average usage of important cosmetics has been included for testing for differences across clusters. Methodology Data have been gathered from 120 college going female students. All the students belonged to undergraduate classes of 3 different colleges of Goa state. Respondents have been selected from the muster roll using systematic random sampling. Selected students have been interviewed by trained investigators at the college premises. Data have been collected using a pretested questionnaire. The information sought in the questionnaire included segmenting variables which are classified into usage, attitude and benefits. These variables were derived by conducting depth interviews of 15 respondents. The depth interviews revealed that there are daily users who could not do without cosmetics while there are also others who are occasional users. Some respondents revealed during the interviews that they have clearly perceived benefits like confidence and good looks due to the usage of cosmetics. Many respondents wanted to project a positive image to others with whom they interact like friends and class mates. One of the major reasons for usage was for attending parties and social occasions. Hence the study used usage, benefits and attitudes as revealed in the depth interviews as segmenting variables. In order to arrive at the number of clusters in the final analysis hierarchical cluster analysis was performed using squared Euclidian distance with average linkage method. Perusal of the dendrogram along with the agglomeration schedule revealed ten outlying cases. After removing these outlying cases again hierarchical clustering was done using the same method and examination of agglomeration schedule and dendrogram revealed existence of three clusters. In order to corroborate and proceed with further analysis K-Means cluster analysis was performed at the second stage. 5 P a g e

6 Cluster analysis using K-Means clustering procedure was performed with the segmenting variables as identified in the qualitative phase. After the segmentation was done cluster memberships of cases were saved for further analysis such as for profiling the clusters and for finding association of clusters with other variables of interest to the marketer. The profiling variables identified were place of residence classified into rural and urban, reason for usage of cosmetics such as health, beauty etc., frequency of buying, factors considered in buying, type of outlet used, type of skin of the respondent and brand preferences for important cosmetics used by female students. Chi-square test was performed to test for association between profiling variables and clusters. ANOVA has been employed for testing the differences across segments in the frequency of usage of different types of cosmetics. RESULTS The results of cluster analysis in the form of final cluster centres are given in table 1. The first cluster was found to be lowest on usage frequency as well as usage dependence. They were also lowest on benefit seeking and medium on social benefits. The second cluster consisted of heavy users of cosmetics with heavy daily usage, medium dependence, highest concern for perceived benefits. The third cluster is medium on usage frequency, highest on usage dependence, lowest on attitude towards social occasions and lowest on benefit perception. TABLE 1: FINAL CLUSTER CENTERS Cluster Use Cosmetics Every Day Cannot do without Cosmetics Happy with friends without cosmetics Happy with classmates without cosmetics Happy in parties without cosmetics Happy at interview without cosmetics Cosmetics Improve appearance Cosmetics improve confidence Cosmetics Improve behaviour P a g e

7 TABLE 2: ITEMS FOR WHICH USAGE DIFFERED ACROSS CLUSTERS Item Mean Cluster1 Mean Cluster2 Mean F Value Significance Cluster 3 Kajal Eyeliner Facial Body Lotion Nail Polish Blusher TABLE 3: ITEMS FOR WHICH USAGE DID NOT DIFFER ACROSS CLUSTERS Item Mean Mean Mean F Value Significance Cluster1 Cluster2 Cluster 3 Makeup Remover Face wash Body spray Deodorant Crack cream Face foundation TABLE 4: PLACE OF RESIDENCE Characteristic Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Rural Urban Total Chi-square is with 2 degrees of freedom and significance of TABLE 5: REASON FOR USING COSMETICS 7 P a g e

8 Characteristic Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Civility Health Beauty Others Total Chi-square is with 6 degrees of freedom and significance of TABLE 6: FREQUENCY OF BUYING Characteristic Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Once a month Twice and month Thrice a month Four times a month Chi-square is with 6 degrees of freedom and significance of TABLE 7: CONSIDERATION IN BUYING Characteristic Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Special offer Quality Friends recommend Price Packaging Brand Others Chi-square is with 12 degrees of freedom and significance of P a g e

9 TABLE 8: CHANNELS OF BUYING Characteristic Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Direct Sales Outlets Online shopping Supermarkets Speciality stores Drug stores Other outlets Department Store Chi-square is with 12 degrees of freedom and significance of TABLE 9: TYPE OF SKIN Characteristic Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Normal Sensitive Combination Dry Oily Chi-square is with 8 degrees of freedom and significance of TABLE 10: BRAND OF KAJAL Brand Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Lakme L Oreal Colossal Mebeline Others Chi-square is with 8 degrees of freedom and significance of TABLE 11: BRAND OF LIPSTICK 9 P a g e

10 Brand Frequency Percent Frequency Percent Frequency Percent L Oreal Lakme Avon Revlon Others Chi-square is with 8 degrees of freedom and significance of Place of residence was not found to be associated with cluster membership with a non-significant chisquare. The amount spent per month on cosmetics was found to vary from cluster to cluster. The average monthly expenditure on cosmetics for cluster 1, cluster 2 and cluster 3 were Rs. 386, Rs. 541 and Rs.651 respectively. All other variables had no relation with cluster membership as indicated by insignificant chisquare values. DISCUSSION It is interesting to note that as far as perception of frequency of usage is concerned the lowest spenders who are also independent considered themselves as the most frequent users for items which significantly differed across clusters. It may be observed that these are visible items. As far as these items are concerned occasional was the second highest frequenters and heavy users were the lowest. Also occasional users were found to be highest users of body spray and deodorants. This possibly explains the psychological usage dependence of this cluster. Mostly low value or low frequency items were found to be more frequently used by first cluster where significant differences in frequencies occurred across clusters. This possibly explains the difference in spending by different clusters. CONCLUSION There are distinct segments in the young female student cosmetic market with respect to usage, attitude and perceived benefits of cosmetic usage. The spending habits of these clusters were significantly different. However, their behaviour with respect to purchase and consumption such as channels, frequency, and brand preferences were not found to vary across clusters. In general it may be attributed to similar beliefs with respect to these factors. Perceptions of many of these variables are created by the marketer by positioning and communication. In general it may be concluded that in cosmetics to young female students there are powerful brands which cut across all the segments and segments have similar behavioural preferences. It may also be concluded that brands have failed to have a differentiated positioning strategy in tapping the differences across segments. This also points to the fact that there exists opportunity for different brands to have differentiated strategies. 10 P a g e

11 REFERENCES Beausoleil, N. (1992).Makeup in everyday life: An inquiry into the practices of urban American women of diverse backgrounds. In N.Sault (Ed.), Many mirrors: Body image and social relations (p.33-57).new Jersey: Rutgers University Press. Brdar, I., Tkalcic, M., & Bezinovic, P. (1996). Women s cosmetics use and self-concept. Studia Psychologica,38 (1-2), Bloch, Peter H. & Richins, Marshal L.(1992).You look mahvelous : The pursuit of beauty and the marketing concept, Psychology & Marketing, 9(1), 3-15.Cash, T.F., & Cash, D.W.(1982).Women s use of cosmetics: Psychological correlates and consequences. International Journal of Cosmetics Science,4,1-14 Cash, T.F., Dawson, K.,Davis,P.,Bowen, M., & Galumbeck,C. (1989).Effects of cosmetics use on the physical attractiveness and body image of American college women. The Journal of Social Psychology, 129(3), Cash, T.F., Rissi, J., &Chapman, R. (1985).Not just another pretty face:sex roles, locus of control, and cosmetics use. Personality and Social Psychology Bulletin, 11(3), Cash, T. F., & Wunderle, J.M.(1987).Self monitoring and cosmetics use among college women. Journal of Social Behavior and Personality, 2(4), Cash, Thomas F & Pruzinsky, Thomas(2002) Body Image: A Handbook of Theory, Research, and Clinical Practice, Vol.3, Guilford Publications. Jourard, S. M (1964).The transparent self. New York: Van Noscrand. Kelson,T.R., Kearney-Cooke, A., & Lansky, L.M. (1990).Body-image and body beautification among female college students. Perceptual and Motor Skills, 71, Lerner,R.M., Karabenick, S.A., & Stuart,J.L. (1973).Relations among physical attractiveness, body attitudes, and self-concept in male and female college students. Journal of Psychology:Interdisciplinary and Applied Research, 85(1), Miller, L. C., & Cox, C.L.(1982).For appearances sake: Public self consciousness and makeup use. Personality and Social Psychology Bulletin, 8, Peiss, K. (1998).Hope in a jar: The making of America s beauty culture.(1 st ed.). New York: Metropolitan Books Henry Holt & Company, Inc. Poran, M. A. (2002). Denying diversity: Perceptions of beauty and social comparison processes among Latina, Black, and White women. Sex Roles: A Journal of Research, 47(1-2), Rich, Melissa & Cash, Thomas (1993). The American image of beauty: media representations of hair colour for four decades. Sex Roles, 29, Spielberger,C., Gorsuch, R., & Lushene,R.(1970).Manual for the State-Trait Anxiety Inventory. Palo Alto, CA: Consulting Psychologist Press. Theberge, L., & Kernaleguen, A.(1979).Importance of cosmetics related to aspects of self. Perpetual and Motor Skills, 48, P a g e

12 Turner, S. L., Hamilton, H., Jacobs, M., Angood, L.M., & Dwyer, D. H. (1997). The influence of fashion magazines on the body image satisfaction of college women: An exploratory analysis. Adolescence, 32(127), Wright, E.T., Martin, R., Flynn, C., & Gunter, R. (1970). Some psychological effects of cosmetics. Perpetual and Motor Skills, 30, Yogo, M., Hama, H., Tsuda, K., & Suzuki, Y. (1990). Effects of use of cosmetics on women s psychological well-being. Japanese Journal of Health Psychology, 3(1), P a g e