organic cardamom from the lush rainforests of Papua New Guinea natural ingredients for youthful skin five helpful hints for blending essential oils

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1 summer edition 2011 organic cardamom from the lush rainforests of Papua New Guinea natural ingredients for youthful skin five helpful hints for blending essential oils

2 this issue summer Summer edition 2011 It s hard to believe that another year is already drawing to a close. Christmas shopping lists are being written and summer holiday daydreaming has begun. The final months of the year are often filled with optimistic anticipation as we ready ourselves for the busy season. But there can also be a sense of urgency to reach the goals set earlier in the year and this can result in some unwelcome stress. If you find yourself feeling the pressure then perhaps allowing yourself ten minutes to sit back and read Oily will give you the breathing space you need. This issue s Harvest takes us to the tropical equatorial region of Papua New Guinea where a unique tribe produce exotic spicy Certified Organic Cardamom oil. Up Close investigates natural anti-ageing ingredients that are ideal for inclusion in your next product formulation and we also have some valuable tips for the budding essential oil blender! Lucille Wilson, Editor

3 Summer cover: Cucumber Cucumis sativus The soothing benefits of Cucumber make it a very popular inclusion in after-sun skincare products. It offers refreshing and softening properties when incorporated in facial toners and light lotions. Cucumber is also recognised for its skin tightening abilities and is often utilised in anti-ageing formulations. Available as a Certified Organic water soluble herbal extract. Visit for more information. 04 Harvest: Certified Organic Cardamom oil High altitudes, rich with tradition. 12 SME Forum: Essential Oil Blending Make your product aromatically irresistible. 16 Up Close: Anti-ageing Ingredients Retain your youthful complexion. 20 News: Hands on Health One Health Organisation update. 22 Product Specification: Cardamom Oil Certified Organic Specification for manufacturers. 23 Formulation: Cardamom Kiss Perfume Oil Featuring Cardamom Certified Organic essential oil.

4 harvest The Cardamom plant flowers every four months with a gentle white blossom. Its arrival signifies the onset of the upcoming pod harvest. Opposite: Much of the harvest transportation is carried out manually. The remoteness of the farming region means that villagers have to carry their sacks of Cardamom to the trading point. 4

5 Rainforest farmers & their rich aromatic spice oil The misty mountains of Papua New Guinea make the perfect farming environment for Certified Organic Cardamom. 5

6 harvest High up in the Baining Mountains in the East New Britain Province of Papua New Guinea an ancient tribe of people, known as the Komgi, work together to produce the delightfully spicy cardamom essential oil. First introduced to the lush tropical region in the 1960s, the Elettaria cardamomum plant found an ideal home in the high altitude of the mountains. The warm temperatures experienced year-round provided superb organic growing conditions and the crop introduction brought the area significant diversification and a strong agricultural income. The region achieved organic certification through The National Association for Sustainable Agriculture, Australia (NASAA) in Whilst this led to increased popularity and production of the oil, the Komgi people have still managed to uphold their traditional values and community structure. The Komgi & the Cardamom Plant The Komgi have lived in the dense rainforest covered mountains, over 1000 metres above sea level, for an estimated 35 thousand years. They are the oldest living inhabitants of the region and have a history steeped in tradition and customs. Their core values centre around Mother Nature. They build their homes from 100% natural materials, they farm by traditional organic methods and they celebrate their beliefs through symbolic music and dance. The cardamom is farmed across approximately 200 hectares, an area that is a mere 10% of the total expanse of the Komgi s traditional land. The farming territory is divided into family plots to ensure each family within the tribe has a continued source of income. Every child that is born is allocated a portion of land within the community s boundaries to provide them with future crop cultivation opportunities. The distinctive cardamom plant grows to form a mini forest and is often inter-planted with existing food gardens to enable short and long term crop rotations. > 6

7 Clockwise from top: Ripe Cardamom pods are picked by hand and collected in large sacks ready for drying. Frequent heavy rains make transport of the Cardamom harvest extremely difficult. In the Baining Mountains over 2000 hectares of land is recognised as belonging to the Komgi. In 2010 the Secretariat of the Pacific Community funded an Organic Certification Expansion program increasing the farmer base from 170 to 300 certified farmers. The dense Cardamom plant is a distant relative of Ginger and grows prolifically in the equatorial climate. All family members spend time harvesting the pods to ensure the maximum crop yield. 7

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9 harvest New cardamom seedlings are hand sown during the wet season from January to March. They take approximately 18 months to reach maturity and will then continue to produce consistent crops every 4 months for at least 5 years. The peak harvesting season, occurs during the middle of the year from June through until August and at this time the unique village community works harmoniously to guarantee all farming families achieve the greatest return from their farming plot. The Cardamom Harvest During the harvest, the strength of the Komgi family unit is demonstrated through the dedication of each family member. Everyone is involved in harvesting the crops, including the children when their school holidays permit. The farmers leave the central village location and trek to their respective farming plots, where they spend at least a week at the farm site until the entire crop has been hand-picked. The women in the tribe work together as a team and spend a full day at each family s plot assisting with the harvest to increase the collection rate. Once stockpiled, the fresh cardamom pods are carried to a collection point where they are assessed and dried ready for sale. A hot air drier, fueled by firewood, provides the farmers with the ability to manage their stock and minimise wastage or pod loss. Drying the pods at this early stage makes them non-perishable which is extremely important as fresh pods are quite delicate and can be susceptible to environmental damage. From this collection point the farmers transport their dried cardamom along dirt tracks to a buying location where Sydney Essential Oil Co. s supply partner purchases all the produce ready for oil distillation and the general spice trade. > Opposite top: Fresh pods need to be dried to avoid spoilage from the high temperatures and regular rain. Opposite bottom: Weddings, funerals and traditional events are celebrated with music and dances. The Afternoon Spirit Dancers help warn away negative spirits and welcome the evening. 9

10 harvest Certified Organic Cardamom Essential Oil At the central processing facility the dried cardamom pods are graded and de-husked to remove the small seed from the outer fibrous layer. The pellet shaped seeds are also graded to ensure consistent oil quality. The dried seeds are processed through large stainless steel steam distillation units and the resulting oil and water mixture is collected and carefully separated to isolate the richly aromatic essential oil. To produce 1 kilogram of essential oil, approximately 20 kilograms of cardamom seeds are processed through this method. Certified Organic Cardamom essential oil contains high levels of 1,8-cineole and alpha-terpinylacetate. It possesses a fresh, crisp spicy aroma that blends well with citruses and warmer spice notes such as ginger, black pepper or sweet fennel. In natural cosmetics Cardamom oil is growing in popularity as it imparts a depth of scent to the aroma profile of the product and offers warming and toning properties to the skin. Natural soap makers incorporate the aromatic oil in their formulations as it offers beneficial anti-bacterial properties. In perfumery, Cardamom is often used to produce a rich luxurious fragrance and is commonly employed by many famous perfumers such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Versace. Certified Organic Cardamom oil is a truly distinctive ingredient. Why not incorporate it into your next product design to experience the rich aromatic delights of this exotic spice oil. 1 Opposite top: At the trading point, Sydney Essential Oil Co. s supply partner purchases the entire Komgi Cardamom harvest and utilises it for essential oil extraction or the general spice trade. The Komgi spend a portion of their income on store bought items such as rice or salt. Opposite below from left to right: Dried Cardamom seeds are processed through the large steam distillation unit to produce the rich aromatic essential oil. The resulting mixture of essential oil and water is further processed to remove any impurities and isolate the oil molecules. Certified Organic Cardamom essential oil contains high levels of 1,8-cineole. This provides a pleasant spicy aroma that can assist in easing respiratory ailments such as coughs and colds. 10

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12 Scent your product naturally Our top five helpful hints for blending essential oils. Choosing to include essential oils in your formulation can help set your product apart from your competitors and make it more appealing to a consumer. The natural aroma profile you achieve through pure essential oils offers a unique point of difference whilst also providing the user with aromatherapeutic benefits. You can design a blend for relaxation and de-stressing or perhaps invigoration and stimulation; maybe you want a product that offers anti-ageing properties or helps cleanse the skin. These tips will help you create the ideal oil combination for your next product. > See our Formulations section online at for a variety of essential oil blends utilising some of the most popular oils such as Lavender, Mandarin and Cedarwood. 12

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14 sme forum one: Know what you want to achieve If you are new to blending essential oils the vast array of options can be quite daunting but by having a clear understanding of what you want your product to do, you can help simplify the selection process and achieve the perfect result. Every essential oil offers a distinctive aroma note whilst also imparting specific aromatherapeutic properties for the mind and body. Understanding both of these elements will help you choose the right oils for your application. A balanced blend will incorporate the traditional top, middle and base notes and will work synergistically to provide the desired benefits. By selecting oils that complement each other aromatically and by property you can increase your product s efficacy and overall appeal. two: Experiment with something new There are hundreds of essential oils to choose from when designing your blend. Citruses, florals, woods, herbs and exotics are just some of the types available and with so much to select from there can be a tendency to stick with the familiar but a little experimentation can lead to some of the most exciting discoveries. By testing an unusual oil combination you can encounter surprising results and find a blend that is truly unique. Next time you are undertaking trial blending why not try an unexpected note of May Chang, Petitgrain or Spearmint for an extra boost of character. three: Be aware of contraindications Some essential oils are not recommended for certain skin types or for people who experience specific conditions and it is important for you to be conscious of how your product will be used by a consumer. For example if you are developing a range of baby products it is wise to steer clear of oils that can be sensitising or overly potent, as children are far more delicate than adults. Typically, safe oils for children are Chamomile, Lavender and Mandarin, however researching the inclusion of other notes such as Tangerine, Sweet Orange, Eucalyptus or Sandalwood can offer greater blending opportunities and provide you with more aroma options. four: Consider the ph and flash point Another aspect of your essential oil blend that you should consider is how it will react within your actual product application. If you are developing a light-weight emulsion then a highly acidic essential oil blend could pose a problem 14

15 for stability or preservative efficacy. The ph of your product directly impacts its integrity and structure and over time an acidic blend could cause it to lose viscosity or split. It can also affect how efficiently the preserving system maintains optimal conditions. It is important to test the ph of your product during the development stage to ensure your blend does not create an adverse reaction. Essential oil flash point is an additional factor that must be taken into account when designing a blend for use in candles. The temperature at which the oils ignite can be problematic if you are working with soy wax as it has a much lower melting point. By incorporating essential oils that have high flash points, such as the wood types, you can counteract this issue and create an aromatically rich blend. If producing commercial quantities of your essential oil blend we recommend undertaking laboratory flash point testing. five: Control the bottom line There is no doubt that Rose, Jasmine and Neroli have some of the most wonderful aromas for essential oil blending however, they are not always the most economical option. It is important to keep your budget in mind when creating your blend so that there are no surprises when it comes time to finalise your product costing. With so much to select from there can be a tendency to stick with the familiar but a little experimentation can lead to some of the most exciting discoveries. By testing an unusual oil combination you can encounter surprising results and find a blend that is truly unique. Thankfully, the high aroma potency of precious oils means you only need to use them in low percentages such as 0.5% or less to still achieve outstanding aromatic results. If the development of your blend appears to be a little more difficult than you expected or you just don t have the time available to dedicate to the process then why not turn to someone for help? Here at Sydney Essential Oil Co. we offer a professional Signature Scent design service that can develop a blend specifically for your needs. We can create an exclusive blend that meets your brief and your budget, if you are interested in this service please see our website for more information or contact sales@seoc.com.au with your enquiry. 1 15

16 Wouldn t it be wonderful if your skin could remain as it was when you were a child? Fresh, vibrant and full of life, free from wrinkles, age spots and sun damage. Unfortunately, the secrets of time control are yet to be discovered but we have discovered many natural ingredients that can help hold back the years. What happens to skin as it ages? Even in your early 20 s your skin is beginning to change. The natural regeneration processes that occur at a cellular level start to slow and environmental exposure affects all skin types and complexions. Sunlight, pollution and even daily hygiene routines can impact the condition of the skin and change it permanently. The dermis layer, beneath the outer epidermis, contains connective tissue along with collagen and elastin protein fibres that give the skin its strength, elasticity and flexibility. It also contains sebaceous glands and blood vessels that both have a role in the production of beautiful skin texture. As we gets older our dermis becomes thinner. It loses its density and the sebaceous glands become less active. This can lead to a dry, sometimes dull, complexion and can result in flaking, cracking and scaly skin. External elements also have an impact on the skin s structure. High exposure to sun, wind and extreme temperatures can accelerate the ageing process and make it difficult to reverse any degeneration such as hyper-pigmentation or capillary damage. > nature s secrets to youthful It is unavoidable that the years pass and your skin changes, but 16

17 up close skin by utilising key anti-ageing ingredients you can help slow the process.

18 Health and nutrition are also important physiological aspects that impact the wellbeing of skin. Maintaining water levels, eating vitamin rich foods and steering clear of the toxins found in cigarettes, all assist in preserving youthfulness. A regular skincare regime also supports a younger looking appearance and the following ingredients will help achieve the best results. Anti-ageing Carrier Oils Avocado oil is rich in oleic acid and is recognised for its cellular regeneration properties. It is easily absorbed and when regularly applied to the skin can increase hydration levels and improve elasticity. It has a high sterol content which is beneficial for age spots or sun damage and is said to reduce pre-mature ageing. With high levels of vitamins A, D and E along with potassium and lecithin, Avocado oil has been proven to increase collagen production which makes the skin appear smoother and more moisturised. Grapeseed oil contains high levels of linoleic acid and offers excellent emollient properties. Rich in polyphenol anti-oxidants, it is regarded as a superb oil for anti-ageing formulations as it smoothes and softens the skin whilst minimising collagen loss through free radical damage. Its light texture and low odour make it a first-rate addition to a wide selection of applications such as creams and lotions, massage products, soaps and serums. It is also low allergenic so can be used with the most sensitive skin types. Rose hip oil is famous for its anti-ageing benefits. It contains large amounts of linoleic and linolenic acids as well as vitamin C, that all provide healing and regenerative properties. The oil also contains a high level of all-trans retinoic acid which promotes collagen production within the dermis layer. When utilised in formulations to combat age-lines, sun damage and scarring, it will strengthen blood vessels, minimise wrinkles and improve the overall texture of the skin. Other oils such as camellia, jojoba, evening primrose and wheatgerm possess anti-ageing benefits. By selecting a range of carrier oils you can enhance and amplify the efficacy of your product. 18

19 up close Anti-ageing Essential Oils Carrot seed oil has long been recognised for its anti-ageing properties. It encourages cellular growth through blood vessel stimulation and improves skin tone and elasticity by boosting collagen production. It is rich in anti-oxidants and vitamins that minimise fine lines and age spots and also help reduce the appearance of scarring. The depurative nature of Carrot seed oil also aids in minimising toxin levels. Geranium oil balances skin sebum and supports the sebaceous glands, resulting in a suppler complexion. It increases circulation and removes congestion which can cause sluggish cellular activity. When used in conjunction with other cytophylactic essential oils, it offers excellent healing properties and lessens the likelihood of scar tissue forming. Lemon oil is a natural rubefacient, meaning it stimulates blood flow. By stabilising cellular fluid levels it ensures optimal circulation and helps remove toxins. It also brightens the complexion through dead skin cell removal and is popular in skin lightening formulations. Neroli, myrrh and lavender essential oils are also key anti-ageing ingredients and when used in combination can be a powerful tool in maintaining beautiful skin. Other Anti-ageing Ingredients Calendula infused oil and herbal extract are recognised for their regenerative properties. Calendular contains high levels of flavonoids which increase the production of collagen and encourages cellular repair. Being available in both water and oil soluble forms enables this highly functional herbal ingredient to suit multiple applications Green Tea and White Tea extracts both contain powerful anti-oxidants that are proven to help fight typical signs of ageing. They decrease the visibility of fine lines and protect the skin from excessive drying. Regular skin application will help boost collagen levels and improve elasticity. Formulating with one or more of these ingredients will help you achieve positive skin results. If you want to find your new anti-ageing ingredient, contact our sales team today on

20 news Hands on Health The sponsorship program between Sydney Essential Oil Co. and One Health Throughout the year our tailor-made essential oil and massage oil blends have been distributed to a wide range of ongoing projects and facilities. They have been utilised by naturopaths, massage therapists and many other practitioners to provide holistic healthcare for those in need. Hands on Health is one of the groups that has received OHO donations. It is a community of practitioners that volunteer their time and energy to promote sustainable health and wellbeing to marginalised people in Australia and overseas. Their healing clinic in Croydon, Victoria offers massage therapy, naturopathy and podiatry services to people suffering from a wide range of mental and physical issues. From long term mental illness, to homelessness and domestic violence, the centre treats up to 16 clients a day. Their outreach program, where they are able to also assist isolated elderly people and migrants seeking refugee status in the Maribyrnong Immigration Detention Centre, sees them care for up to 20 clients a day, many of whom have never experienced a massage or holistic treatment. Massage therapist, Alys Cavanagh from the Croydon centre says, great success has been achieved in helping clients manage insomnia and anxiety levels by utilising the Sleep Well and Don t Panic essential oil blends. The impact has been quite profound; when their lives have been hanging by a thread the use of these products in their treatment has helped them overcome many challenges. Alys goes on to say, these oils speak to the client s self worth, they appreciate the quality of the products we use with them and for some people who have little to no self-esteem, something so simple makes the world of difference. The centre also treats people suffering from drug or alcohol addiction, physical or psychological abuse and adults with severe intellectual impairments. Every client receives the minimal monthly massage and SEOC products are utilised according to the client s needs. The positive feedback has been extremely encouraging and we are proud to continue the collaboration with One Health Organisation as they provide the community such worthwhile services. If you are interested in learning more, making a donation, or volunteering your practitioner skills, please begin by contacting our marketing department at marketing@seoc.com.au 1 20

21 Organisation has enriched the lives of many people during Peppermint oil is a key ingredient in the One Health Organisation Body Bliss essential oil blend. It offers cooling relief from muscular aches and pains, as well as joint stiffness and mild inflammation. With a refreshing and uplifting aroma it is an excellent inclusion in blends for bodywork. 21

22 product specification Product Botanical Name: Origin: Appearance: Colour: Odour: Plant part used: Extraction method: Cardamom oil Certified Organic Elettaria cardamomum Papua New Guinea Clear mobile flowing liquid Pale straw yellow to light yellow Characteristic cardamom Seed Steam distilled Physio-chemical properties Specific Gravity at 20ºC: Refractive Index at 20ºC: Optical Rotation at 20ºC: º to º Flash Point: 70ºC in closed cup Oil Components typical Analysis 1, 8-cineole: a-terpinyl acetate: d-limonene: 1 9 Linalool: 2 8 Linalyl acetate: Trace 10 a-terpineol: Trace 5 a-pinene: Trace 5 Sabinene: Trace 5 b-pinene: Trace 5 Other Information Packaging: as required Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place without direct sunlight or heat. 22 For more information, contact Sydney Essential Oil Co

23 formulation Cardamom Kiss Perfume oil Performance: long-lasting perfume designed for summer evening wear. Appearance: yellow coloured oil, light density fluid. Aroma: sweet, warm, exotic spice aroma with floral undertones. Stability: expected shelf life 18 months subject to manufacturing practice. Recommended use: apply direct to wrists, behind ears, neck & inner elbow. Phase Raw Material % w/w A Bergamot (bergaptene free) essential oil certified organic 0.87 Rosewood essential oil 0.87 Cardamom essential oil certified organic Rose Premium absolute Lotus Pink absolute Peru Balsam oil B Camellia oil certified organic 50 Grapeseed oil 45 C Vitamin E natural 2 100% w/w Method of Manufacture 1. Combine ingredients in Phase A and mix well. Allow to synergise for 30 minutes. 2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and mix well. 3. Add Phase A to Phase B and mix well. 4. Add Phase C and mix well. 5. Bottle in a 10mL Perfume Rollette for easy roll-on application. 6. Leave for 24 hours to allow all ingredients to thoroughly combine prior to use. For ingredients, contact Sydney Essential Oil Co Disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof. 23

24 Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd ABN Burrows Road South, St Peters NSW 2044 Australia PO Box 226 St Peters NSW 2044 T: F: E: sales@seoc.com.au Order on-line Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday Copyright 2011 Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher. Contact marketing@seoc.com.au with any requests. Oily is printed responsibly by our Forest Stewardship Council Chain-of-Custody certified printers. They use vegetable-based inks on Elemental Chlorine Free (ECF) pulp paper sourced from sustainable forests. Oily is also available to view on-line. If you d prefer to opt-out of receiving a print copy, please let us know.