SKINCARE 101. A guide to understanding the basic anatomy of your skin & much more.

Transcription

1 SKINCARE 101 A guide to understanding the basic anatomy of your skin & much more. Find your skin type, the right oils to use for moisturised, healthy skin & learn about some of the deceptions of the skincare industry. + 6 Easy Natural Beauty DIY Recipes BROUGHT TO YOU BY MINO COLLECTIVE

2 INTRODUCTION In 2015 I started to change many aspects in my life, I became more aware of all the toxins in consumer goods and made an active choice to start eating healthier, exercise more and buy natural and organic products. I also decided that the financial industry was not for me as I wanted to work with something that made a positive change in peoples lives, I strongly believe that goodness is the only investment that never fails (Henry Thoreau). This lead me to start Mino Collective - a Social Enterprise that works with women s groups in the Republic of Benin. We operate within the natural and organic skincare industry and ever since I started building the company I have been learning and consuming tonnes of information about the holistic approach to skincare and the skincare industry (still leaning!). I ve created this E-book with some of the information I ve learned over the last year, I am hoping that you ll find this book useful and pick up some additional knowledge to strengthen the skin care routine you already have in place. I am a big fan of home/diy/crafting approach to skincare and life in general - I ve found that you don t have to spend big bucks to have a really robust and abundant skin care regiment. Moreover, some of those expensive products with massive and complex ingredients list you probably don t understand half of aren t always the best for your skin. If there s something I ve learned it is the importance of keeping it simple. And now I present you with SKINCARE A guide to understanding the basic anatomy of your skin & much more. In this book we ll cover: Ԃ Decoding of skincare industry terminology Ԃ Basic anatomy of the skin Ԃ Easy test to find your skin type Ԃ The oils that works best for you skin type Ԃ 4 step skincare routine Ԃ Ingredient spotlight Ԃ 6 amazingly easy but great DIY recipes Me and some of the women from the women s group in the village Kikélé, north eastern Benin. All The best & Enjoy, Hadija Inoussa

3 Your skin is the fingerprint of what is going on inside your body and all skin conditions, from psoriasis to acne to aging are the manifestations of your body s internal needs, including nutritional needs Dr. Georgina Donadio Founder of the National Instute

4 GET THE LINGO RIGHT BREAKDOWN OF TERMINOLOGY USED IN SKINCARE What do we mean when we say Holistic? The oxford dictionary defines holistic, as the treatment of the whole person, taking into account mental and social factors, rather than just the symptoms The Holistic Lifestyle The holistic approach to skin care relies upon what you put in as well as what you put on your body,hence a person s skin is a reflection of his or her inner health. Holistic healing is the practice where the whole human form, that is, the physical body, mind and spirit is considered. Nevertheless, many deem holistic skincare as the practice of only using non-invasive treatments and products with natural and organic ingredients, yet this is only one piece of the puzzle. Think of the skin as a beautiful flower, the first indication that it s wilting and needs water is lifeless petals, it may revive a bit if you spray some water on its surface, but in order to restore the flower to vibrancy you have to water its roots. FACT: Applying a holistic approach to skin care implies that you can t treat the skin as a separate entity from the entire body. The inside-out approach suggests that it s essential to go deeper than just the skin if sustainable results are to be achieved. This may be physical as well as mental health, for instance stress can cause some individuals to break out in hives and others in pimples... Yupp that s right your emotions might affect the health of your skin. To improve the health of your skin improve your diet and exercise daily: Ԃ Eat whole foods and antioxidant-rich foods, such as colourful vegetables, berries, fruits and green tea. Ԃ Drink plenty of water, at least 2 liters of water every day (I drink loads of herbal teas which keeps me hydrated) Ԃ Exercising daily helps to reduce stress, support your body s natural detoxification, and reduce inflammation. Ԃ Yoga, meditation, deep breathing and mindfulness exercises are also healthy stress-relieving practices. For more information on holistic skin care please visit: Ԃ Ԃ

5 GET THE LINGO RIGHT BREAKDOWN OF TERMINOLOGY USED IN SKINCARE The oxford dictionary define organic as produced or involving production without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or other artificial chemicals. When we talk about natural skin care products they should only contains ingredients that are sourced from nature rather than created synthetically. All this seems pretty straightforward; however, labels and branding on many mainstream organic and natural beauty products can be very deceptive...

6 GET THE LINGO RIGHT BREAKDOWN OF TERMINOLOGY USED IN SKINCARE Due to more awareness and concerns from consumers around the toxins used in our environments and everyday consumer goods more brands are using the terms natural and organic to describe their products. But what does it really mean when we see the words on a mainstream manufacturers cosmetic or toiletries product label? Ԃ There s no legal definition for organic cosmetic products in the EU. A company could label a product organic even if that product only had 1% organically-produced ingredients. Ԃ There s no legislation in place for using terms such as natural and green. Brands that only use 1 % natural ingredients can use the terms to simply make the consumer think they are buying something pure, better or safer. Ԃ Certified organic ingredients ensures that the product contains guaranteed organic ingredients. ԂThere are many different organic certification bodies in the world and they all have different systems for approving organic products which can prove to be problematic. Ԃ Five certification bodies have recently developed the Cosmetics Organic Standard (COSMOS) attempting to harmonise standards across the globe. COSMOS organisations that certify products as organic Ԃ As some prominent brands use the words green, organic or natural on products that does not qualify; the best thing you can do as a consumer is to ensure that the products are safe by carefully reading the labels and ingredient lists. For more information: Ԃ Ԃ

7 Don't rely on labels to give you the information you need. Trust only the ingredient list and your gut. Yancy Lael, Glowing: Soulful Skincare

8 SKIN ANATOMY 101 THE SKIN Sebaceous Gland Sweat Gland Epidermis As you probably know our skin is the largest organ of the body, but did you know it s also made up of multiple layers and has tons of other functions? Here is a quick breakdown of the layers and what they do. Hair Hair Root ԂThe outermost layer of skin, provides a physical barrier between the interior body and exterior environment. ԂIt contains 5 cell layers that have a variety of functions such as producing cells that regulate the color of our skin, cells of the immune system to protect our skin from infections. Dermis Hypodermis (Subcutis) Dermis ԂThe middle layer is where collagen, elasticity and connective tissue is found. ԂIt contains nerves, sweat and sebaceous glands (glands that produce oil), hair roots and blood and lumpy vessels (capillaries). ԂThis is also where hyaluronic acid exists in high concentrations it s a wonderful compound that helps us retain moisture and plumpness of the skin. Nerves Capillaries Fat, Collagen, Fibroblasts Epidermis Hypodermis (Subcutis) Ԃ The layer of loose connective tissue and fat beneath the dermis.

9 FIND YOUR SKIN TYPE AND MAKE SKINCARE EASIER WASH YOUR FACE Remove makeup and wash off the day's oil and dirt so your skin can start fresh. WAIT 2 HOURS Don't apply any products and let your skin return to its natural state WHAT DO YOU SEE? Determine your skin type based on your natural skin's characteristics.

10 NORMAL Skin is not oily or flaking. Skin feels smooth. You might have: Ԃ No or few imperfections Ԃ No severe sensitivity Ԃ Barely visible pores Ԃ A radiant complexion DRY Skin feels tight and may have itching, cracked or flaky areas. You might have: Ԃ Almost invisible pores Ԃ Dull, rough complexion Ԃ Red patches Ԃ Less elasticity Ԃ More visible lines Ԃ You have the least problematic skin type and well you re lucky. Ԃ You re in the middle camp and should use lightweight formulas. Nothing too thick or heavy. Ԃ You go through moisturiser like your life depends on it. Ԃ Try to avoid irritating ingredients and nourish your skin with generous amounts of oils and moisturisers. OILY Skin looks shiny and may have a slicky feel. You might have: Ԃ Enlarged pores Ԃ Dull or shiny, thick complexion Ԃ Blackheads, pimples, or other blemishes COMBINATION All of the above. Can be dry or normal in some areas and oily in others, such as the T-zone (nose, forehead, and chin). You might have: Ԃ Overly dilated pores Ԃ Blackheads Ԃ Shiny skin Ԃ Oily skin is problematic and breakouts still happen to adults. But, it's not hopeless. Ԃ Use gel and liquid formulas. Avoid heavy emollient or too oily formulas. Ԃ Tricky.. You're all over the place. But the right products will help you get home. Ԃ Target oily areas with gels and liquids. Soothe dry areas with light lotions and serums.

11 A GUIDE TO CARRIER & ESSENTIAL OILS FOR YOUR SKIN TYPE SKIN TYPE NORMAL CARRIER OILS Ԃ Hemp seed Ԃ Sweet Almond Ԃ Rosehip Ԃ Sunflower Ԃ Grape seed Ԃ Apricot Kernel ESSENTIAL OILS Ԃ Rose Geranium Ԃ Chamomile Ԃ Lavender Ԃ Fennel Ԃ Rose Ԃ Rosewood Ԃ Avocado Ԃ Sweet Almond Ԃ Frankincense Ԃ Palma Rosa DRY Ԃ Jojoba Ԃ Olive Ԃ Ylang Ylang Ԃ Jasmine Ԃ Rosehip Ԃ Shea butter Ԃ Rose Geranium Ԃ Lavender Ԃ Grape seed Ԃ Sunflower Ԃ Rose Geranium Ԃ Tea Tree OILY Ԃ Jojoba Ԃ Rosehip Ԃ Frankincense Ԃ Cedarwood Ԃ Sweet Almond Ԃ Neem Ԃ Lemongrass Ԃ Lavender COMBI- NATION Ԃ Grape seed Ԃ Jojoba Ԃ Apricot Kernel Ԃ Sunflower Ԃ Hemp seed Ԃ Rosehip Ԃ Rose Geranium Ԃ Rosewood Ԃ Ylang Ylang Ԃ Lavender Ԃ Frankincense Ԃ Carrier oil s are vegetable oil derived from the fatty portion of a plant, usually from the seeds, kernels or the nuts Ԃ Essential oil is a liquid that is generally distilled from the leaves, stems, flowers, bark and roots of a plant. For more detailed information about benefits, storage, etc please visit Aroma Web:

12 WHAT IS THE BEST THING YOU CAN DO WHEN IT COMES TO SKIN CARE? UNDERSTANDING YOUR OWN SKIN AND ITS REQUIREMENTS.

13 4 STEP SKINCARE ROUTINE CLEANSE EXFOLIATE MOISTURISE PROTECT Get the right kind of cleanser for your skin type, only wash twice a day even though you have oily skin. Tip: The right kind of toner can be very beneficial for your skin, if you want to add an extra step to your routine find a toner for your skin type. Toners should be used after you cleanse. There s a lot of discussions about how often you should exfoliate... I would say around once or twice a week as that is the general consensus. A good moisturiser will increase hydration by holding the water in the skin, increase softness, be a source of EFAs*, antioxidant such as Vitamin A and E and anti-aging benefits. With that said, no matter whether your skin type is normal, dry, oily or combination you should make moisturising an essential step in your skin care routine. The last step is protecting your skin from the harmful UV rays. Tip: Choose a moisturizer that already contains UV protection (and antioxidants to fend off UV-damage). *Essential Fatty Acids

14 INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT - SHEA BUTTER THE ROLLS- ROYCE OF CARRIER OILS History In Africa women have been using shea butter for thousands of years, in Benin it s used as a cooking oil, for candle/soap making, hairdressing and as an ingredient in medicinal ointments. Its key use as a cosmetic traces back to Ancient Egypt and Queen Cleopatra that used it as part of her beauty regiment. Shea butter is an extremely important commodity for women in West Africa, it s known as womens gold. In countries like Mali, Ghana and Burkina Faso shea butter production have provided many women with a sustainable income and improved the lives of people in many communities, this is what we aspire to do for the community we are working with in Benin. How is it made? The making of shea butter is highly labour intensive - the nuts are harvested, dried, milled, roasted, milled again, water is added to the shea butter paste and women kneaded by hand to separate the butter then it is boiled and the butter float to the surface.

15 INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT - SHEA BUTTER THE ROLLS- ROYCE OF CARRIER OILS Refined vs Unrefined Unrefined shea butter is usually made using traditional methods, the butter is extracted without using chemicals, which means that all the natural healing and moisturising properties remain intact. The colour ranges from cream to grayish yellow and it has a nutty aroma. Refined shea butter is made by manufacturers using chemicals, such as hexane and bleach to remove any odour and colour. The result is a butter that lacks the true moisturising, healing, and bioactive properties of traditional shea butter. Grades Mino Collective s high quality shea butter is 100% Unrefined and Grade A. There are many different grades and it is important to understand the difference. Ԃ A - contains the highest amount of bioactive nutrients and is unrefined Ԃ B - is refined and contain low level of bioactive nutrients Ԃ C - highly refined and extracted with solvents such as hexane Ԃ D - lowest uncontaminated grade Ԃ E - with contaminants Commercial grades are A, B, C.

16 INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT - SHEA BUTTER THE ROLLS- ROYCE OF CARRIER OILS 3-17% BIOACTIVE (HEALING) FRACTION SHEA BUTTER MOISTURISING FRACTION Cellular Regeneration Ԃ Abrasions Ԃ Minor cuts Ԃ Burns Ԃ Wound healing Antiinflammatory Ԃ Swelling Ԃ Allergic Reactions Ԃ Insect Bites Ԃ Itching Ԃ Dermatitis Ԃ Eczema Ԃ Muscle Aches Vitamin A Vitamin E Cinnamic Acid Ԃ Antioxidant Ԃ Wrinkles Ԃ Pimples Ԃ Acne Ԃ Blemishes Ԃ Stretch Marks Ԃ Softer Skin Ԃ Antioxidant Ԃ Microcirculation Ԃ UV protection Ԃ Anti-inflammatory Ԃ Antioxidant Vitamin F (Essential Fatty Acids) Ԃ Dry Skin Ԃ Dry Scalp Ԃ Dry Hair Ԃ Environmental Protection SUNFLOWER COCONUT OLIVE ALMOND Ԃ 0-1% 0-1% *Bioactive fraction = Non-saponifiable fraction *Mino collective shea butter have bioactive fraction of 14 % 1-1.5% 0-1% Most vegetable oils can be divided into two important fractions, the bioactive* and moisturising fraction. The bioactive fraction contains the valuable properties listed in the diagram such as Vitamin A, antioxidants, cinnamic acid etc. and moisturising fraction contains the moisturising properties. What makes shea butter superior to other oils is the exceptionally high percentage of the bioactive fraction ranging from 3-17 %* (depending upon quality of the butter) compared to other seed oils that range from 1.5 % or less. This is why shea butter is superb when it comes to treating and preventing a host of skin conditions.

17 NATURAL BEAUTY 6 DIY RECIPES

18 BENTONITE CELANSING BALM This amazingly rich cleanser will break down BENTONITE CLEANSING BALM Ingredients makeup and pull out any gunk from your pores. 30g coconut oil It can be used morning and night and gives your 20g shea butter skin a smooth and soft feel. It s suitable for 10g beeswax normal, dry and combination skin but may be 4 teaspoons (20ml) of avocado oil too rich if you have oily skin. 4 teaspoons (20ml) of jojoba oil 2 teaspoons (10ml) of honey The clay makes a great additive to the cleanser 10g bentonite clay and come in a variety of colours which all have 5 drops geranium bourbon essential oil different minerals and healing properties. Bentonite clay has great impurity-absorbing 4 drops palma rosa essential oil abilities. Equipment kitchen scale double boiler (heatproof bowl resting over a saucepan) sugar thermometer teaspoon (5ml) airtight 100ml jar How to use Place a wet (tap-hot) face or muslin cloth on your face to open the pores. Take a small amount of cleanser and massage throughly into skin to loosen any dirt and makeup. Remove the cleanser with the cloth. For extra deep clean repeat the process.

19 1. Melt the coconut oil, shea butter and bees wax in the double boiler at a medium heat (around 45 ). VARIATION Keep the same amount of shea butter and coconut oil (solid oils) Normal Skin CO: Grape seed & Almond oil / EO: Geranium & Lavender Oily Skin CO: Neem & Sunflower / EO: Lavender & Tea CO= Carrier oil, EO= Essential Oil 2. Once all the solid ingredient have melted, take off heat add the jojoba, avocado and honey and stir gently. The honey will not dissolve fully but add the clay and continue stirring. 3. Add the geranium and palma rosa once the mix is at 35 and sir well. Pour the mix into the jar and voila you are done.

20 5 INGREDIENT FACE OIL The list of oils that you can use for your face is endless. This recipe uses oils that are all filled with vitamins and antioxidants great for nutrition, anti aging and hydration. It is a basic recipe using few ingredients but remember simplicity is key when it comes to skincare. This mix fits most skin types, but if you want to mix it up choose oils that are good for your skin type. Ingredients 4 teaspoons (20ml) of almond oil 3 teaspoons (15ml) jojoba oil 2 teaspoons (10ml) rosehip oil 1 teaspoon (5ml) vitamin E 5 drops of essential oil (optional) Equipment small glass jug or a beaker teaspoon (5ml) glass bottle with dropper (50ml) How to use Apply a few drops straight on to skin after cleansing (toning and exfoliating) and then follow with your moisturizer.

21 1. Add the oils to the glass jug. VARIATION This mix suits most skin types, and you can add essential oil of your choice Normal Skin CO: exchange jojoba oil for hemp seed oil/ EO: Chamomile Oily Skin EO: Geranium Bourbon CO= Carrier oil, EO= Essential Oil 2. If using essential oil, add to the oils and mix thoroughly. 3. Carefully pour the mix into the glass bottle.

22 LIME BODY SCRUB This body scrub smells lovely and will rejuvenate your skin leaving you feeling wonderful. Body scrubs gently remove dead skin cells, dirt and oil from the outer layer of skin. This helps to unclog pores and expose your skin s underlying healthier layers. The salt in this recipe exfoliates, allowing anti-aging vitamins, antioxidants and oils from the coconut, almond and lime to deeply nourish and moisturise. Ingredients 50g coconut oil 2 teaspoons (10ml) almond oil 70g epsom salt 10g mineral bath salt (coarse salt) 10 drops tangerine essential oil 2 limes Equipment kitchen scale small bowl teaspoon (5ml) airtight 100 ml jar How to use Massage into damp skin whilst in shower. Go easy when scrubbing, especially on sensitive skin. Use with caution coconut oil will make your shower or tub slippery be sure to run extra hot water to help it rinse down the drain. Keep in fridge and use within 3-4 weeks, before using, allow the scrub to stand at room temperature for a good 10 minutes so that the formula softens a bit.

23 1. Add the coconut and almond oil to the bowl and stir the mixture vigorously with a teaspoon till it s soft and fluffy. 2. a) Grate the lime and put the lime zest into separate bowl. b) Add the lime juice and essential oil to the oils, stir well and ensure that everything is evenly distributed. 3. Gradually add the salt and lime zest to the coconut oil mixture, stirring carefully until it s all mixed in. 4. Spoon the mixture into the jar and enjoy!

24 WHIPPED SHEA BUTTER If you want silky smooth skin and nourish your skin at the same time, this is the butter for you! Use 100 % unrefined shea butter and virgin coconut oil to get a body butter packed with nutrients, vitamin A, E, F, and antioxidants. This butter is great for dry/itch-skin, eczema/psoriasis, rashes and stretch marks. The vitamin E is an antioxidant which extends the shelf life of your body butter. Ingredients 90g shea butter 30g coconut oil 3 teaspoons (15ml) grape seed oil 2 teaspoons (10ml) jojoba oil 1 teaspoon (5ml) vitamin E oil 15 drops grapefruit essential oil 10 drops tangerine essential oil Equipment kitchen scale double boiler (heath proof bowl resting over a saucepan) electric whisk sugar thermometer teaspoon (5ml) airtight 200 ml jar How to use This body butter is best to use after a bath or shower and massaged into damped skin. It s very rich so you only need to use a small amount, it has a natural SPF 6 and great to use as a daily moisturiser.

25 1. Melt the shea butter and coconut oil in the double boiler. Once all the solid ingredient have melted (keep at around 45 ), take off heat. 2. Add the grape seed oil, jojoba oil and vitamin oil. Keep stirring till mix is at 35, add the grapefruit and tangerine essential oil. 3. Add the mix to the fridge for 30min - 1hr, once you take it out it should have solidified around the bowl. 4. Take out from fridge and whisk using and electric whisk for 5-10 min.

26 5. Spoon the lusciously whipped shea butter into a jar and be prepared to be feeling and smelling amazing!

27 HONEY FACE & LIP SCRUB This easy faces and lip scrub is good enough to eat, I dare you not to taste it! Exfoliating on a regular basis helps to reduce the occurrence of acne and blackhead breakouts. Exfoliating the tired, dead cells also speeds up the skin renewal process, allowing new healthy cells to take their place. Exfoliating also removes the dirt stuck deep inside your pores. Ingredients 4 teaspoons (20ml) of sugar 1 teaspoons (5ml) olive oil 1 teaspoons (5ml) honey 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice Equipment small bowl teaspoon (5ml) airtight 30 ml jar How to use Apply scrub to damp skin and massage in small, circular motions for 1-2 minutes and rinse off with a warm washcloth. Keep in fridge and use within 3-4 weeks, before using, allow the scrub to stand at room temperature for a good 10 minutes so that the formula softens a bit.

28 1. Mix the olive oil, honey and lemon juice. 2. Add the sugar and stir carefully until its all evenly distributed. 3. Spoon the mixture into the jar and enjoy!

29 VANILLA & HONEY LIP BALM If you like me live in a cold climate, lip balm may be one of the things you can t leave the house without. This easy recipe can be made in no time and you ll get really high quality lip balm packed with vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants to help save your lips. Ingredients 15g coconut oil 10g shea butter 10g beeswax 4 teaspoons (20ml) jojoba oil 2 teaspoons (10 ml) honey 1 teaspoon (5ml) almond oil 1 teaspoon (5ml) vitamin E oil 1 teaspoon (5ml) pure vanilla extract Equipment kitchen scale teaspoon (5ml) small glass jug or a beaker sugar thermometer electric milk frothier 4 x 15 ml jars How to use Apply to lips as needed.

30 1. Melt the shea butter, coconut oil and beeswax in the double boiler. Once all the solid ingredient have melted (keep at around 45 ) take off heat. 2. Add the jojoba oil, almond oil, vitamin E oil, honey and vanilla extract. Stir until its all mixed in, the honey won t completely dissolve and need to be further mixed. 3. Blend with a milk frothier until the honey is completely mixed in and mixture reaches a thicker consistency. If you don't have frothier put the jug in a bowl of cold water and mix until mixture reaches a thicker consistency. 4. Once its a thick but pourable consistency, pour into the jars and put in fridge for 30 min - 1 hr.

31 STORAGE & SHELF LIFE Before you start making your products make sure that you create a clean working environment, thoroughly clean the area and tools you ll be working with as this will minimise the chance of bacteria and prolong the shelf life of your products. Before you start to work you can clean the area with isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol this should be pretty easy to find at a local pharmacy or hardware store. The recipes in this book are preservative free, have no water added in them and are simply made from salts, sugars, oils, butters and waxes. As they don t contain any water they don t grow any mold or fungus but will eventually go rancid over a period of time. To know the expiry date of your product check the dates of the ingredients used and go by the shortest expiry date to be on the safe side. Some oils will last a year or two but it s always best to check to be sure! As we have added the antioxidant vitamin E to the whipped body butter, face oil and lip balm it should help keep the products up to 1-2 years. The body, face and lip scrubs you ll probably use next to water so be careful not to add any water to the products as this may lead to mold and fungus. To better keep the products you can keep them in the fridge and use within 1 month. NB: The products you ve created with shea butter may crystallise or become grainy. This is due to after melting, the various fatty acids will turn solid again, but each does it at a different temperature, not to worry - this does not impact the quality or usability of the butters.