Walmart USA Apparel Quality Testing Manual. Issued May 2008

Transcription

1 Walmart USA Apparel Quality Testing Manual Issued May 2008 Revised November

2 Table of Contents 1. Introduction Color Process Pre-Production and Production Testing In-Store Quality Audit Regulatory Compliance Testing Process for Apparel National Brands Testing Process Supplier Tier Testing Process In-Store Quality Audit Process Walmart Exception Orders Test Report Ratings Defect Classification Testing Turn-Around Time What to Submit When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Flammability Test Process for Children s Sleepwear

3 4. Children s Apparel Private Brand Garments Children s Apparel Mechanical Hazards Apparel Trim/Hardware Press Fasteners Approved Press Fastener Suppliers Zippers Invisible Concealed Zippers Zipper Pulls Zipper Pull Attachments Approved Zipper Suppliers Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers D-Rings Drawstrings, Cords & Ties (Functional and Decorative) Adjustable Waistbands Sashes & Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Belts Bath Robes Fixed Bows Functional & Decorative Loops Belt Loops Back Neck (locker) Loops Hanger Loops Hammer Loops Hats/Caps Under-Chin Ties on Hats Under-Chin Straps on Hats Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs

4 4.13. Neck Ties Toggles & Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggle Buttons Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) / Spring Loaded Toggles Decorative Application Functional Application Button and Buttonsew Buttons Buttonsew Hook & Loop Fastener Tape Thread Ends & Float Threads Decorative Trims & Embellishments Appliqués & Embroidery Beads & Jewels Sequins Diamante (Rhinestones) & Metal Studs Pom-Poms & Fringe Fake (Faux) Fur Natural Feathers Miscellaneous Requirements Polyvinyl Chloride in Children s Bibs Performance Specifications General Requirements Colorfastness Properties Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic Woven Man-made Cellulosic Origin Woven Man-made Synthetic Woven Silk, Wool, Animal Hair Denim Woven Pile Fabrics 4

5 5.4. Knit Fabrics Weft Knits Warp Knits Knit Undergarments Hosiery - Socks and Tights Sweaters 5.5. Leather/Suede Apparel Accessories Belts, Caps, Ear Muffs, Gloves, Hair Accessories, Hats, Mittens, Neckties, Scarves, Ski Headbands, Ski Masks, Stocking Caps, Suspenders and Pet Accessories 5.7. Products with Special Claims Zipper Performance Standards Appendix A Defect Type Classifications Appendix B Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process Appendix C Children s Body Weight Tables Appendix D Material Adoption Process (MAP) Appendix E...75 Trim Suppliers Appendix F Mill Blank Suppliers Appendix G Color Manual 5

6 WALMART Stores, Inc. 1. INTRODUCTION This Walmart Apparel manual specifies materials, construction, and test procedures that have been developed by the Apparel Technical Team, various standards bodies, regulatory agencies, and independent labs. The objective of the test program is to ensure that Walmart apparel meets or exceed these performance standards as listed in this manual. Additionally suppliers must be involved in-depth with the manufacturing processes of their products including Quality Assurance, internal testing, operator training, in line inspection, root cause analysis of defects and corrective actions taken in the factory to stop non compliant product at the source. An increased focus on quality has been implemented at Walmart and we are committed to offering only the best quality products to our customers. You as a supplier are expected to deliver these defect free quality products and will be held accountable for allowing non-compliant product into the supply chain. This manual is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying. Irrespective of whether the supplier meets the requirements set forth in this manual, suppliers are still responsible for all aspects of the quality, safety and compliance of their merchandise. If you are in doubt as to the applicability of any law, standard, or regulation that applies to products that you intend to supply to Walmart, please seek advice from your legal counsel or Technical Representative. 6

7 1.1 Color Process The Walmart color testing process is managed by Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL) in conjunction with Walmart Associates. The color manual is published in Retail Link at Retail Link > Site Map > CTL Documentation USA > Color or at the following web address: The manual will guide you through our color approval process from substrate submission to Lab Dip Electronic, Lab Dip, Shade Band Electronic, to Shade Band testing. Please refer to the Walmart Apparel Color testing manual for all color approval questions. NOTE: The color approval process is not connected to the Pre-production and Production testing process. Color is only tested for color performance and not color matching during the Pre-production and Production Testing process. This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for Preproduction Testing and/or Production Testing. NOTE: Color testing is done by CTL in either the Hong Kong Color Lab or the Bentonville Color Lab. Pre-production Testing and/or Production Testing can be done in any geographic location regardless of where the color is being approved. 1.2 Pre-Production and Production Testing The purpose of Pre-Production testing is to assess performance against Walmart quality standards before production so that problems can be addressed and revised before proceeding to production. Pre-Production testing is required for all domestic and direct import products and should be completed 60 days prior to ship date. A passing report is your approval to cut garments and proceed to production. Production testing is required for all items regardless of label or supplier. The test should be performed at 10% completion of the production and 30 days before ship date. The purpose of the test is to verify that the materials and workmanship used in production meet or exceeds the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to the Gold Seal sample. Detailed testing requirements are published in Section In-Store Quality Audit This phase of testing confirms that the mass produced apparel items meet or exceed the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to production sample. Only top quality items that pass testing will remain in store. Product that fails testing will be subject to withdraw. Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3. 7

8 2. REGULATORY COMPLIANCE Walmart is committed to providing our customers with safe products that comply with all appropriate regulations and standards. Walmart suppliers must comply with all laws, including Federal, State, and Local laws as required under the Supplier Agreement. Walmart reserves the right to monitor compliance through inspection, testing, or audits. The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory and safety requirements for apparel. There is zero tolerance for critical regulatory failures that are discovered in our stores and non-compliant product will be withdrawn from the stores. Walmart Product Safety and Compliance regulatory requirements can be accessed through Retail Link filed under Retail Link > Site Map > Product Safety and Compliance Library or at the following web address: Suppliers should visit this site regularly to keep abreast of the latest changes and new Walmart requirements. This site is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying. Walmart does not provide legal advice to its suppliers. Suppliers should seek their own legal counsel on how to comply with all laws applicable to their product. For information on Product Safety & Compliance, please visit the following web sites: Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act California Air Resource Board Formaldehyde in Composite Wood Products Lacey Act Questions 8

9 3. Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself. It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers. The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory. 3.1 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols. Note: The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise. No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color is used Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and exempt for high performing domestic suppliers. Production Testing is required for all styles In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliers performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers. National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the Apparel Technical Team for resolution. In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the Apparel Technical Team. In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance. In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the Apparel Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores. Note: A second Production level test is required for all Children s items which remain in stores longer than 6 months. 3.2 Test Performance Incentive Supplier Tiering is no longer applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel. It has been replaced with an in-store test performance procedure: National Brand Suppliers with an acceptable quality scorecard of <3% fail rate for In-Store testing will be exempt from pre-production testing Domestic Private Label and Proprietary Suppliers with an acceptable quality scorecard of <3% for In-Store testing will be exempt from completing 3 rd party final inspections and/or DuPro inspections Suppliers with an acceptable quality scorecard should contact the Apparel Technical Team for consideration 9

10 The exemptions will be valid as long as the in-store test fail percentage remains <3%. All performance criteria is based on a prior 12 month performance, and reviewed bi-annually. Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution Critical Regulatory Failures 1. Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier. Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the Apparel Technical Team. 2. In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the Apparel Technical Team. 3. Production Corrective Action Plans (CAP s) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory. Critical Walmart Failures 1. Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the Apparel Technical Team. 2. In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the Apparel Technical Team. The Apparel Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product. All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the Apparel Technical Team for resolution. 3.3 In-Store Quality Audit Process In order to ensure that merchandise meets Industry Standards and our Customer s needs, the 3 rd party lab which you have chosen will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors. The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly. This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this initial In-Store Quality Audit fails testing. For the initial In-Store Quality Audit all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style. Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the Initial In-Store Quality Audit results in a Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below). High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the Apparel Technical Team. If the same style is packaged differently (i.e. different case packs), only 1 test of that style will be tested. Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing. The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit, all items will be pulled for testing as soon as garments are available in stores. Full quality testing will be conducted. 10

11 High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails. - Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest at the direction of the Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands. High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by the Apparel Technical team. The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart below. The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country. The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below. For the purpose of High Sampling Retest, multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection. The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard), Special Inspection Level S-4, Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II- A of the Standard). Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects: acceptance/rejection Up to 10,000 pieces 32 pieces 2 / 3 10,001 to 35,000 pieces 50 pieces 3 / 4 35,001 to 500,000 pieces 80 pieces 5 / 6 500,001 and up 125 pieces 7 / Walmart Exception Orders Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy. These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process, while maintaining safety, quality and consistency of product. Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends. Note: Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order. Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style # for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable), purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders. All test results must be satisfactory to ship. 11

12 Identification Type of Order Fast Fashion Pick Up Buy Graphic Tee Prefix Code FF PB GT Note: Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply. Children s garments will also be tested for CPSIA requirements. Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing Order *Color *Gold *Aesthetic Pre- Production In-Store Verified by VP/ Senior Category Director Seal (Fit) Production Fast Fashion A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required meeting. Pick Up Buy An order where goods already exist. **For National or licensed brand only. For private label & proprietary see Apparel Development Manual Test Order An order where units are small to test future buys. Emerging Brand Brands new to Walmart. Mill Blanks- Adults and Children Required Not required Not required Required Not required Required Required Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required Required Not required Not required Not required Not required Not required Required Required Required Required Required Not required Required Required Graphic Tee- Adults and Children Not required Not required Not required Required Not required Required Required Dot Com (this does not apply to add-on orders) Not required Not required Not required Required Not required Required Not required 12

13 *Note: Gold Seal approvals only apply to Walmart Private/Proprietary Label Brands. Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart Private/Proprietary Label requirements: *Note: The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults, kids, and baby. All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual. Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal. 3.5 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways: Pass, Marginal Pass or Fail. This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings. It will also determine future testing requirements. PASS: The sample has no Critical Regulatory, Critical Walmart, Major, or Minor Defects as defined in section 3.6 and as listed in Appendix A. MARGINAL PASS: All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards, as decided by the laboratory, will be rated Marginal Pass. Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods. In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue, these ratings could result in future test failure. Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future orders improvement. Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating. FAIL: The sample has Critical Regulatory, Critical Walmart, or Major Defects as defined in section 3.6 and as listed in Appendix A. 3.6 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect. Defect classification will determine the Pass, Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report. Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications: Critical Regulatory Product that is non-compliant with government regulations. Critical Walmart Walmart requirements that are not covered by law. Major Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications. 13

14 3.7 Laboratories Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time Standard Testing Turn-Around Time Suppliers should partner with the 3 rd party testing facilities to determine appropriate turn times for testing. Certain products may require specialized testing protocols, and therefore may need extended time for testing. The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples. 3.8 The Supplier s Commitment - What to Submit Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims, hardware, and attachments, along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores. A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical: Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction Department Number Pre-Production Retest Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical, major, and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the Apparel Technical Team. The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production. The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples. Production When 10% of garment production is complete, the supplier must schedule either BV or CTL to visit the factory and randomly pull and chop the test samples from the production line representative of all sizes and colorways. For each body style, the 3 rd party must chop two garments of each colorway. The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size. Samples submitted by the supplier or factory without being sealed and chopped by a 3 rd party will not be accepted. Note: Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure. (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process). Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team. Production Retest Production retests for Walmart critical, major, and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the Apparel Technical Team. The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3 rd party inspection service, require a factory inspection by our 3 rd party before shipment, retest, submit a CAP addressing the failure, or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action, etc. The order may not ship without a passing production test report. 14

15 Premium Gift with Purchase Program A premium gift with purchase is defined as an item/gift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item. The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing. Once the premium gift product receives a passing test, the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item, the gift with the passing test report, and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory. Additional Supplier s Documentation The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable: - Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP). - Supporting documentation for labeled claims, such as chemical free. - Organic Cotton Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product. Note: All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab. An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports, which have a two (2) year period. 3.9 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing. As per direction from Walmart, the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements. This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders, and if testing is not complete, the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows: Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to the shipping date. Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the shipping date. If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing 15 days prior to the shipping date, the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory. All suppliers, both Domestic and Direct Import, have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory. However, once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing, all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items, Production and Retest, must occur in the same facility. 15

16 3.11 Flammability Testing Process for Children s Sleepwear (16 CFR 1615/1616) This testing process applies to all children s sleepwear items such as nightgowns, pajamas, or similar related items such as robes and loungewear, which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping. All fabric production units (FPU), all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment. Note: No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing. No exceptions are allowed. Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the children s sleepwear flammability test. Submitting Samples for Children s Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing. Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan Fabric Production Units (FPU) When submitting fabric for flammability testing, send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric; at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5,000 yard unit. If the unit is made up of only one piece, at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece. Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end). Note: If the 50x wash requirement applies, send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU. Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end. Prototype Seam When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing, make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested. The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment. Prototype Trim When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing, provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment. Note: Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes. The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below: - Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric. If more than one row of trim is used on the garment, the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment. 16

17 - Garments with Other Trim Configurations Prepare the specimens by sewing or attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric. Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen. Note: For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment. The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment, using the same stitching or seam type. Production Testing for Flammability When submitting production garments for flammability testing, randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type. Testing Application Form for Flammability A completed Testing Application Form must be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing. Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers. Note: If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing, the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum). 17

18 4. CHILDREN S APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures. This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Children s Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address: Private Brand Garments All press fasteners, zippers, dungaree clips (hasps) thread, and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier. If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier, the testing laboratory will require documentation (i.e. invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier. For the approved list of trim suppliers, please refer to Appendix E. 4.2 Children s Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on children s apparel, such as zippers, drawstrings, fasteners, and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use, or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse. For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size. Size Age 0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs Girls 4-6X / Boys years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 / Boys yrs & up Note: For clarity, the remainder of this section will refer to size (not children s ages) when specifying requirements. Small Parts Labeling Products with certain small part decorative trims and embellishments may need to have an additional hangtag attached to the garment. For children s apparel sizes 4 6x (girls) / 4 7 (boys), the following hangtag must be attached to the garment if the garment contains: - Small part embellishments such as rhinestones, beads, jewels, sequins, etc. OR - Cords/ties/belts made from metal chain. 18

19 Garments with functional hardware only (such as buttons, snaps, etc.), must not provide this hangtag. THE CHOKING HAZARD WARNING MUST NOT BE USED ON CHILDREN S APPAREL SIZES 0-5T. THE CHOKING HAZARD WARNING MUST NOT BE USED ON GARMENTS WITHOUT DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENTS OR METAL CHAIN. FUNCTIONAL COMPONENTS (such as snaps, buttons) ARE NOT DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENTS. 4.3 Apparel Trim/Hardware Press Fasteners Press fasteners used on children s apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic. Plastic press fasteners for all children s apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier, as listed in Appendix E. Exception: Vinyl like wearing apparel (e.g. raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up. This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T. Press fasteners used on children s apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the knee area, or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort. POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE 19

20 STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS / EYELETS Approved Press Fastener Suppliers All press fasteners must be from an approved source, as listed in Appendix E. Use of an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab. Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted. Exception: National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual, or as required by law Zippers Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for children s apparel sizes 0-5T. Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a bottom stop for children s apparel sizes 0-5T. Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for children s apparel sizes 0-5T. Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off. Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the examples below) are not permitted for children s apparel sizes 0-5T. Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin). Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types. If metal stops are used, prongs must face away from the child s body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching. All top / bottom stops must be securely attached. 20

21 Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisible/concealed zippers are not permitted for children s apparel sizes 0 5T. Zipper Pulls INVISIBLE / CONCEALED ZIPPER A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper. It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull. Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for children s apparel sizes 0 5T. Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls), is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body the pull is clamped onto the ring. Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body. Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for children s apparel sizes 0 5T. Ring Pull Open Design Pulls One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on children s apparel sizes 4 and up, providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch. Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a bar tack or similar secure attachment method. 21

22 Elastic pulls are not acceptable on children's apparel sizes 0-6x (girls), and 0-7 (boys). For sizes where they are allowed, elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state. Wadded/filled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on children s apparel sizes 0 5T. Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on children s apparel sizes 0 5T. Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on children s apparel sizes 0-6X (girls) or 0-7 (boys). Zipper pull attachments used on children s apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum length requirement indicated below. Position of Zipper Pull Attachment At the ends of long skirts or trousers At the ends of long sleeves At center plackets All other locations Maximum Length 1 in 1 in 1½ in 2 in Approved Zipper Suppliers All zippers must be from an approved source, as listed in Appendix E. Zippers from any other sources are not permitted. Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the components shown below. Zipper components (e.g. top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled. 22

23 Exception: National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual, or as required by law Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider. This is to prevent potential injury during wear, as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp. All joins must be securely covered with fabric. For children s apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment. Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and, therefore must be attached after metal detection. Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source, as listed in Appendix E. Exception: National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual, or as required by law D-Rings (attached on garments) D-Rings are not permitted on children s garments sizes 0-5T. D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for children s apparel. All metal D-Rings used on children s apparel or on items included with children s apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector. This includes metallic finishes. There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring. This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp. All joins must be securely covered with fabric. 23

24 The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment. D-Rings 4.4 Drawstrings, Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative) Definitions Drawstring - Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel, casing, loops, eyelets, or similar, has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself. Continuous drawstring - Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment, has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening. Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring. Cords & / Ties (functional) - Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material, which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself. Cords & Ties (decorative) Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes. Access the Children s Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address: 24

25 4.5 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center back to prevent the band from being pulled out. 4.6 Sashes & Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Definitions Sashes / Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top, which is intended to be tied in the back. Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 ¼ inch in width. Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied. It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment. Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be removed. 25

26 The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches. (measured from the point where they are to be tied). Size 4 and up Sash & Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be removed. The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the point where they are to be tied). It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 4.7 Belts Belts - General Requirements Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed. Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied. Buckles / D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to garments intended for sizes 0-5T. Belts with buckles / D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for sizes 0-5T, provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length. 26

27 Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams, at a minimum, to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied. Belts Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below) Belt Type Belts with Buckles / D-Rings - Attached to Garment Belts with Buckles / D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment Garment Size 0-5T 4-20 Not Permitted 5½ inches 3 inches 14 inches 14 inches Measurement Criteria All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment. Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied. Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end. Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole. For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (e.g. a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4 th hole from the strap end). 27

28 Belts without punched holes (e.g. braided belts, belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts with punched holes around the entire belt; the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat. The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end. 4.8 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for belts. 4.9 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center. The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch, a heat seal or laser cut. The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths. Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) Fixed Bows (located at the Hood, Neck, Ankle or Below the Elbow) Girls: 4 20 / 0 5T Boys: 4 20 Loops Tails Loops Tails ½ 1½ 1 1½ 1 The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack, or from the exit point as shown below: Bartacks No visible bartack, loops are measured from exit points. Bartack at both sides of bow, loops are measured from bartacks. 28

29 4.10 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops. The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end, the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment. Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment. Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks. Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside of a garment only. Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on children s apparel sizes 0-5T. Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C). Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on children s apparel; however they must be designed in such a way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3" in length. 3 x 3 maximum with center bartack 29

30 4.11 Hats / Caps Hat / Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (e.g. religious clothing). INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements: Ties are not continuous. Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length, when measured from the point of securement. Ties are not constructed of elastic. Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends. Pom-poms, tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties. Hats / Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all children s hats / caps. Chinstraps must meet the following requirements: Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin. The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each side of the hat / cap. Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin. Hats / Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms, tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (e.g. chinstraps, ties). 30

31 Decorative trim, when allowed, must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 4.18 of the manual. Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels Tassels used on hats for children, must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin. (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn). PERMITTED NOT PERMITTED Decorative trim, when allowed, must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 4.18 of the manual. 31

32 4.12 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood and neck area. The use of hook and loop tape, self fabric, snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs Neck Ties Neck ties are allowed for all sizes. For sizes 0-5T, the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) Toggles & Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on children s apparel sizes 0-5T, must not be constructed of wood, cork, leather, mother of pearl (shell), glass or other non-durable material. All metal toggles used on children s apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector. This includes metallic finishes. Toggles must only be used on drawstrings, cords or ties that have no free ends. In addition, free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop. 32

33 Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort. Toggles in the knee area are not allowed. Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to the toggle button as possible, while still being functional. Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference. Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) / Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative or functional application. However, below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for, and also the method of attachment. Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on children s apparel as a decorative application. The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords: Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood, or Neck area. The cord must be securely attached to the garment. Elastic cords can only be used on children s apparel sizes 12M and above. The pig nose/spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed from the garment. The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment. The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 3/8 from the eyelet or buttonhole. 33

34 3/8 Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on children s apparel as a functional application. The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords: - Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood, or Neck area. - The pig nose (cord lock)/spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed. - The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely out of the garment. - The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3 when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended. - The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on children s apparel sizes 0-5T, must not be constructed of wood, cork, leather, mother of pearl (shell), glass or other non-durable material. Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for children s apparel sizes 0 5T. Fabric covered buttons must not be used on children s apparel sizes 0 5T. Spare buttons are not permitted for children s apparel sizes 0-5T. Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for children s apparel sizes 0-5T. 34

35 4.16 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all children s apparel sizes 0-5T. Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener tape is in direct contact with the skin. The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and prevent potential irritation to the skin Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for children s apparel sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of ¾ inch. Thread ends in the hand/finger area of mittens/gloves must not be over ¾ inch for sizes 0-6M. For footed garments, socks, or booties intended for sizes 0-6M, with a seam around the sole, the start / stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area. Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M. Float Threads (0-6M) Socks, Booties, or Footed Garments Foot Area Non-Foot Area Mittens Hand / Finger Area Other Areas (other than foot or hand area) Not permitted ½ inch maximum length Not permitted ½ inch maximum length 35

36 4.18 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for children s apparel sizes 0-5T. Beads or jewels used on other children s apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal, glass, or wood. Sequins For children s apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around each sequin, as shown below. Sequins must not be constructed of metal. Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) / 4-7 (boys), which exhibit sequins that are tacked at 5 points, do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag. Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for children s apparel sizes 0-5T. For sizes 4 and up, riveted items are considered Press Fasteners, and must follow requirements listed in section Note: Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) / 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins, beads and jewels, rhinestones and metal studs, must include the small part choking hazard hangtag, as outlined in section 4.2. Appliqués & Embroidery Appliqués and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy, and in direct contact with the skin. Interlinings used on children s apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to create a small parts hazard. Pom-Poms & Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting / sweater yarns are not permitted on children s apparel sizes 0-5T. Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining. Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components. Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring, cord or tie with free ends. 36

37 Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on children s apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to easily pull out. Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of children's wearing apparel or accessories. Note: Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement. Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted. Note: Feathers contained within fabric, or filled, as in outerwear, are acceptable Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns, or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments designed for children 0 9M. Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on children s apparel unless it is properly covered with a backing. Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes per square inch. Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for children s apparel sizes 0-5T. Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for children s apparel sizes 0-5T Polyvinyl Chloride in Children s Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all children s plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC. 37

38 5. Performance Specifications 5.1 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel Test Description Care Labeling Fiber Content Country of Origin Manufacturer s Identification Faux Fur or Real Fur Test Method / Reference 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489 Labeling 16 CFR Part CFR Part 303 AATCC 20, AATCC 20A 16 CFR Part CFR Part CFR Part CFR Part CFR Part 303 NY CLS Gen Bus 399- aaa 16 CFR Part 301 Performance Requirements Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation. Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations, as applicable. 100% fabrications: ± 0.0 % Fiber content blends: ± 3.0 % Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC and/or CBP, as applicable. Must include a label identifying the manufacturer s name, registered trademark or registered identification number, as applicable. Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label, as applicable. Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act. Flammability Apparel Flammability Class 1-Note: assess and test non-exempt fabrics 16 CFR Part 1610 (Adults and Children s) only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance. Children s Sleepwear 16 CFR Part 1615 Flammability 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance. Fabric Qualities / Construction / Workmanship Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects, such as stains, holes, slub yarns, missed stitches, or other fabric defects. Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage. Hems should be straight, uniform Construction / and consistent. Loose threads should be properly Visual Evaluation Workmanship trimmed. Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance. ph AATCC 81 ph Whites Dyed

39 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued) Test Description Test Method / Reference Nickel Performance Requirements Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (children s garments where metal component is in contact with skin) EN mg/cm2/week Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and children s apparel. Natural feather boas are not allowed. Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and children s apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket). Note: For products intended for children, refer to the section 4 covering Children s Apparel. 5.2 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers / All Fabrications Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking All Fabrics / All Fiber Contents (except as noted below) Denims, tie dyes, dip dyes, pigment prints, raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deep/dark navy, green, burgundy, maroon, purple, brown, black and red) Dark Indigo denim (rinse, wash) AATCC 8 AATCC 116 for prints AATCC 8 AATCC 116 for prints AATCC 8 AATCC 116 for prints AATCC 8 Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry: Grade 4.0 min Wet: Grade 3.0 min Dry: Grade 3.0 min Wet: Grade 2.0 min Dry: Grade 3.0 min Wet: Grade 2.5 min Dry: Grade 3.0 min Wet: Grade 1.5 min Dry Grade 3.5 min Wet Grade 1.5 min 39

40 All Fibers / All Fabrications (continued) Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Accelerated Laundering AATCC 61 2A Staining: Grade 3.0 min ( bulk fabric only) 1B for hand wash Self Staining Grade 4.5 min Home Laundering Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Hand wash (1 cycle) AATCC 135 / 150 Staining: Grade 3.5 min Machine wash (3 cycles) per care instructions Self Staining Grade 4.5 min (except as noted below) Home Laundering: Denims, sulfur dyes, tie dyes, dip dyes, pigment prints, raised fiber surfaces, pile fabrics, dark colorways* for plain surface fabrics. Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine AATCC 135 / 150 per care instructions AATCC TS-001 Shade Change: Grade 3.5 min Staining: Grade 3.0 min Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Dry cleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Self Staining: Grade 4.5 min Outerwear: 20 AFU, Grade 3.5 Swimwear: Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Neons 10 AFU, Grade 2.0 All other fabrics 20 AFU, Grade 3.5 Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Staining: Grade 3.5 min Water (color blocked Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min AATCC 107 only) Staining: Grade 3.5 min Swimwear Only Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Staining: Grade 3.0 min Water AATCC 107 Shade Change: Grade 4.0 min Staining: Grade 3.0 min *Very deep/dark navy, green, burgundy, maroon, purple, brown, black and red Note: For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel, refer to Section 5.5 Leather/Suede Apparel. 40

41 5.3 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton, Linen, Ramie, Hemp, Jute and Blends (50% or more) Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Fabric Weight As specified in Product Specification or ASTM D 3776 (oz/sq yd OR g/sq m) Purchase Order (± 5.0 %). Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (± 5.0 %). Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing WARP FILL Cotton & blends: % % Other Natural Cellulosics and blends: % % Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles) AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions Stretch fabrics (w/spandex): % % Corduroy/Flannel: % % Terry,Basket: % % Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage, Commercial Dry cleaning (1 cycle) Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Skewing AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 Visual Evaluation AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1 WARP FILL Cotton & blends: % % Other Natural Cellulosics & blends: % % General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance. 3.0% Maximum 41

42 Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate, Lyocell, Modal, Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose), Rayon from Bamboo, Triacetate, Viscose and Blends (50% or more) Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities / Construction Fabric Weight As specified in Product Specification or ASTM D 3776 (oz/sq yd OR g/sq m) Purchase Order (± 5.0 %). As specified in Product Specification or Thread Count ASTM D 3775 Purchase Order (± 5.0 %). Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles) Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage, Commercial Dry cleaning (1 cycle) Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Skewing AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC TS-006 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 Visual Evaluation AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1-5% X -5% +1% X +1% -5% X -5% +1% X +1% General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance. 3.0% Maximum Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic, Aramid, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene), Polyester, Spandex, Vinal, Vinyon and Blends (50% or more) Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities / Construction Fabric Weight As specified in Product Specification or ASTM D 3776 (oz/sq yd OR g/sq m) Purchase Order (± 5.0 %) As specified in Product Specification or Thread Count ASTM D 3775 Purchase Order (± 5.0 %) Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles) Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage, Commercial Dry cleaning (1 cycle) Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 Visual Evaluation Length: % Width: % Length: % Width: % General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage, or other changes that affect the appearance. AATCC 179 Skewing 3.0% Maximum Method 1, Option 1 Note: 50% synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard. 42

43 Woven - Predominantly Silk, Wool, Animal Hair and Blends (50% or more) Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities / Construction Fabric Weight As specified in Product Specification or ASTM D 3776 (oz/sq yd OR g/sq m) Purchase Order (± 5.0 %). Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (± 5.0 %). Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing WARP FILL Dimensional Stability - Silk and Blends: % % Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles) AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions Wool and Animal Hair Blends: % % Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage, Commercial Dry cleaning (1 cycle) Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Skewing AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 Visual Evaluation AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1 WARP FILL Silk and Blends: % % Wool and Animal Hair Blends: % % General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance. 3.0% Maximum Woven Denim Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities / Construction Fabric Weight As specified in Product Specification or ASTM D 3776 (oz/sq yd OR g/sq m) Purchase Order (± 5.0 %) Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (± 5.0 %) Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing WARP FILL Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC TS % % % % Wash (3 cycles) Per Care Instructions Stretch % % Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage, Commercial Dry cleaning (1 cycle) Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Skewing AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 Visual Evaluation AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1 Denim WARP FILL % % % % General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance. 3% Maximum 43

44 Woven - Physical Performance Woven - All Fibers / All Fabrications (except as noted) all values are minimums Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf < 2.5 oz/sq yd ASTM D 5034 Tensile Strength oz/sq yd (Grab) oz/sq yd oz/sq yd Tearing Strength Seam Slippage Stretch and Recovery ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf) ASTM D 1683 Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf < 2.5 oz/sq yd oz/sq yd oz/sq yd oz/sq yd Weight Seam lbf * <4.3 oz/sq yd 20 min 4.3 oz/sq yd 25 min *production seam- opening must not exceed ¼ In Stretch Direction Only Elastic Fiber Content ASTM D %-measure growth after 30 minutes -7% maximum Modified >5%, < 10%- measure growth and recovery after 30 minutes and report both-growth 5% maximum > 10%- Measure recovery after 60 seconds-85% minimum Denim (all values are minimums) TENSILE TEST - ASTM D 5034 (Grab) RINSE AND DARK WASH Weight (oz/sq yd) lbf- (Warp X Weft) Chambray Fabric < 4.5 oz x20 Denim x x x50 > x65 Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab) TENSILE TEST - ASTM D 5034 (Grab) STONE/ENZYME, BLEACH WASH Weight lbf- (Warp X Weft) 44 Chambray Fabric < X15 Denim x x x40 > X 50

45 Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf) Weight < 8.0 oz/sq yd oz/sq yd oz/sq yd 12.0 oz/sq yd Warp lbf Fill lbf TEAR TEST - ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf) RINSE AND DARK WASH Weight lbf- (Warp X Weft) Chambray Fabric < 4.5 oz 2.5 X X 2.5 Denim X X X 4 > X5 TEAR TEST - ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf) STONE/ENZYME, BLEACH WASH Weight lbf- (Warp X Weft) Chambray Fabric < 4.5 oz 2X X2 Denim X X X2.5 > 12 4X3.2 Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683 Weight Seam lbf < 8.0 oz/sq yd oz/sq yd 30.0 Woven- Physical Performance (continued) Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy, Terrycloth, Velvet, Velveteen, Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel (all values are minimums) Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf < 2.5 oz/sq yd Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab) oz/sq yd oz/sq yd oz/sq yd Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf Tearing Strength <2.5 oz/sq yd ASTM D oz/sq yd (Elmendorf) oz/sq yd oz/sq yd Seam Slippage Weight Seam lbf ASTM D 1683 <4.4 oz/sq yd oz/sq yd

46 5.4 Knit Fabrics- Weft Knit Apparel Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities / Construction Fabric Weight As specified in Product Specification or ASTM D 3776 (oz/sq yd OR g/sq m) Purchase Order (± 5.0 %). Physical Performance (minimum) Weight psi Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 < 100 g/sq m (< 3.0 oz/sq yd): g/sq m ( 3.0 oz/sq yd): 35 In Stretch Direction Only Elastic Fiber Content: Stretch and Recovery (Spandex) ASTM 2594 modified 1-5%-measure growth after 30 minutes-7% maximum >5%, < 10%- measure growth and recovery after 30 minutes and report bothgrowth 5% maximum > 10%- Measure recovery after 60 seconds-85% minimum Fiber Content Predominantly Cotton, Linen, Ramie, Hemp or Jute (50% or more) Predominantly Acetate, Lyocell, Modal, Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50% or more) Predominantly Acrylic, Aramid, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50% or more) Predominantly Wool, Animal Hair or Silk (50% or more) Jersey, Double Knit Length: 6.0 % Width: 6.0 % Length: 6.0 % Width: 6.0 % Length: 5.0 % Width: 5.0 % Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention AATCC 135 / 150 / 158 (length / width) (1 dry clean, 1 hand wash, or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types (Maximum shrinkage performance standards) Pique Interlock Rib Knits Length: 7.0 % Width: 7.0 % Length: 7.0 % Width: 7.0 % Length: 5.0 % Width: 5.0 % Length: 6.0 % Width: 6.0 % Length: 7.0 % Width: 7.0 % Length: 5.0 % Width: 5.0 % Length: 8.0 % Width: 8.0 % Length: 8.0 % Width: 8.0 % Length: 6.0 % Width: 6.0 % Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length: 6.0 % Width: 6.0 % Fancy Knits, Pointelle, Bird s Eye, Jacquard Length: 7.0 % Width: 7.0 % Length: 7.0 % Width: 7.0 % Length: 7.0 % Width: 7.0 % Thermal/ Waffle Apparel Length: 8.0 % Width: 8.0 % Length: 8.0 % Width: 8.0 % Length: 8.0 % Width: 8.0 % Fake Fur, Fleece, French Terry, Velour, Terry Length: 6.0 % Width: 6.0 % Length: 6.0 % Width: 6.0 % Length: 5.0 % Width: 5.0 % Hand Washing or Dry cleaning (1 cycle) Length: 3.0 % Width: 3.0 % Note: 50% synthetic blended with any other fibers, use the synthetic standard. 46

47 Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage, or other changes that affect the appearance. Minimal Shrinkage Performance Claim / Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions AATCC 150 Length: 4.0 % Width: 4.0 % Minimal Shrinkage Performance Claim / Garment Unwashed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions Skewing Warp Knits AATCC 150 Length: 5.0 % Width: 5.0 % Dimensional Stability Growth (maximum) AATCC 150 Length: 2.0 % Width: 2.0 % Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1 Fabric: 5.0% Max Tops and Shorts: 4.0 % Max Skirts, Pants, Dresses, Sleepwear: 4.0 % Max Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities / Construction Fabric Weight As specified in Product Specification or ASTM D 3776 (oz/sq yd OR g/sq m) Purchase Order (± 5.0 %). Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing (maximum) Dimensional Stability - Plain Knits Lace, Net and Mesh Shrinkage AATCC 135 / 150 Knits Hand Wash (1 cycle) or AATCC TS-006 Length 5.0 % 5.0 % Machine Wash (3 Width 5.0 % 5.0 % cycles) Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage, Commercial Dry cleaning (1 cycle) Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles) Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Skewing AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 Visual Evaluation AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1 47 Plain Knits Knits Length 3.0 % 3.0 % Width 3.0 % 3.0 % Lace, Net and Mesh Plain Knits Knits Length 2.0 % 2.0 % Width 2.0 % 2.0 % Lace, Net and Mesh General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage, or other changes that affect the appearance. Fabric: 4.0 % Max Tops and Shorts: 4.0 % Max Skirts, Pants, Dresses, Sleepwear : 4.0 % Max Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D psi (lace only) Snagging Resistance- Activewear/Sportswear fiber content polyester, polyester blendsspandex, nylon ASTM D3939 Class 3.0

48 Sweater Knits, All Fiber Contents Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities / Construction Fabric Weight As specified in Product Specification or Purchase ASTM D 3776 (lb/dz) Order (± 5.0 %). Wale/Course Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec.12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (± 5.0 %). Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing (maximum) Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles) Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage, Commercial Dry cleaning (1 cycle) Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles) Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Skewing (cotton sweaters only) AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC TS-006 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC 135 / 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 Visual Evaluation AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 1 Length: 6.0 % Width: 6.0 % Length: 3.0 % Width: 3.0 % Length: 2.0 % Width: 2.0 % General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage, or other changes that affect the appearance. 4.0 % Maximum 48

49 Knit Undergarments/Underwear Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 / 150 (length / width) (3 machine wash cycles) (Maximum) Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Predominantly Cotton, Linen, Ramie, Hemp or Jute (50% or more) Predominantly Acetate, Lyocell, Modal, Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50% or more) Predominantly Acrylic, Aramid, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50% or more) Length: 14.0 % Width: 14.0 % Length: 14.0 % Width: 14.0 % Length: 8.0 % Width: 8.0 % Length: 10.0 % Width: 10.0 % Length: 10.0 % Width: 10.0 % Length: 7.0 % Width: 7.0 % Length: 9.0 % Width: 9.0 % Length: 9.0 % Width: 9.0 % Length: 6.0 % Width: 6.0 % Note: 50% synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard. Dimensional Stability Growth (Maximum) Thermal/ Waffle Length: 10.0 % Width: 10.0 % Length: 9.0 % Width: 9.0 % Length: 8.0 % Width: 8.0 % All Fiber Contents and Constructions Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Skewing Length: 3.0 % Width: 3.0 % Appearance Retention General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, Visual Evaluation holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, or other changes that affect the appearance. Skewing AATCC % Max Method 1, Option 1 49

50 Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities / Construction Sock Weight As specified in Product Specification or ASTM D 3776 (adapted) (lb/dz) Purchase Order (± 5.0 %). Colorfastness (Minimum) All Colorfastness AATCC method, as (except as noted below) applicable. Perspiration - Black Socks, Tights, & Shade Change: Grade 4.0 AATCC 15 Hosiery (predominantly Staining: Grade 2.5 nylon only) Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing (Maximum) Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or AATCC 150 Machine Wash (3 cycles) Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles) Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) NAHM AATCC 150 Visual Evaluation NAHM sizing boards Fit Performance Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section. Length and Width Natural & Man-made Blends 10.0 % Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10.0 % Wool Blends 6.0 % Length and Width Natural & Man-made Blends 3.0 % Blends Including Stretch Fibers 1.0 % Wool Blends 1.0 % General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage, or other changes that affect the appearance. Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles. 5.5 Leather/Suede Apparel Leather / Suede Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention / Skewing (Maximum) Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle) Professional Leather Cleaning Length: 3.0 % Width: 3.0 % Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle) Professional Leather Cleaning Length: 1.0 % Width: 1.0 % General appearance must be satisfactory, Appearance Retention no open seams / hems, holes, unraveled (after 1 professional Visual Evaluation seams, or other changes that affect the leather cleaning cycle) appearance. Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle) Professional Leather Cleaning Colorfastness (Minimum) Shade Change: Grade 4.0 (min) Crocking AATCC 8 Dry: Grade 3.0 Wet: Grade 2.0 Light AATCC 16, Option 3 10 AFU, Grade 4.0 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change: Grade

51 5.6 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts, Caps, Ear Muffs, Gloves, Hair Accessories, Hats, Mittens, Neckties, Scarves, Ski Headbands, Ski Masks, Stocking Caps, Suspenders and Pet Accessories Test Description Care Labeling Fiber Content Country of Origin Manufacturer s Identification Test Method / Reference Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D CFR Part CFR Part 303 AATCC 20, AATCC 20A 16 CFR Part CFR Part CFR Part CFR Part CFR Part 303 Performance Requirements Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation, as applicable. Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations, as applicable. 100% fabrications : ± 0.0 % Fiber content blends: ± 3.0 % Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC and/or CBP, as applicable. Must include a label identifying the manufacturer s name, registered trademark or registered identification number, as applicable. Must conform to labeled dimensions and Labeled Dimensions and Product Count NIST Handbooks 130 and133 labeled product count. NY CLS Gen Bus 399- Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label, Faux Fur or Real Fur aaa as applicable. Real Fur must comply with 16 CFR Part 301 the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1, if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance. Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and children s accessories. Natural feather boas are not allowed. Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats. Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler). 51

52 Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts, Caps, Ear Muffs, Gloves, Hair Accessories, Hats, Mittens, Neckties, Scarves, Ski Headbands, Ski Masks, Stocking Caps, Suspenders and Pet Accessories Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities / Construction Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects, such as stains, holes, slub yarns, miss stitches, etc. Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples. Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage. Hems should be straight, Construction / uniform and consistent. Loose threads Visual Evaluation Workmanship should be properly trimmed. Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance. Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd OR g/sq m OR lb/dz OR unit weight) ASTM D 3776 Thickness ASTM D 1777 Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Seam Strength (test production seams) As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (± 5.0 %). oz/sq yd: woven scarves. lb/dz: knit scarves, ski headbands, ski masks, mittens, gloves and stocking caps. unit weight (grams): woven caps, ear muffs, gloves, hats, mittens, neckties, and hats. Do not weigh: belts, hair accessories, pet accessories, or suspenders. As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (± 5.0 %) Only perform on leather belts. Dimensional Stability / Appearance Retention (1 dry clean, 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) AATCC 135 / 150, AATCC 158, AATCC R-003, AATCC TS-006 Visual Evaluation ASTM D 1683 Colorfastness to: Crocking AATCC 8 Home Laundering AATCC 135 / 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16, Option 3 Water AATCC 107 Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section. General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams/hems, broken stitches, holes, tarnished/rusted components, or other changes that affect the appearance. Physical Performance 25 lbf (work gloves only) Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section. 52

53 5.7 Products with Special Claims Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims Must have verification from independent Antimicrobial lab to verify antimicrobial claim. AATCC 147 Original fabric tested for: AATCC 100 Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Grade 4.0 (min) Color Retention Breathability AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change) ASTM E 96 Solids and yarn dyes: Grade 4.0 (min) Prints: Grade 3.0 (min) Tested after 5 home launderings. For development, test after 20 launderings: Grade 3.0 (min) => 500 g/m2 per 24 hrs Air Permeability AATCC 737 < 4 ft3/ft2 x min Stain Repellency Stain Resistance Stain Release Stain Management Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics) Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure, Waterproof) Water Resistance (Rain Test) Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 118 AATCC 130 modified AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603 AATCC 127 AATCC 35 modified AATCC 22 Original: Grade 5 Must repel #5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings: Grade 4 Must repel #4 Oil (n-tetradecane) Grade 4.0 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains: Chocolate Syrup, Corn Oil, and Ketchup Scrubs tested for: Chocolate Syrup, Corn Oil, Ketchup and Betadine. For development, test after 20 launderings.- Grade 4.0 Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric. Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater Minimum 2000 mm, head of water Original and after 5 home launderings. Max. 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm), 2 minutes Original and after 5 home launderings. Original: Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings: Minimum Spray Rating 70 53

54 Products with Special Claims (Continued) Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims Must wick 6.0 cm in 30 minutes AATCC TS-017 Wicking Tested after 5 home launderings. For development test after 20 launderings. Fabric Smoothness Grade 3.5 (min) AATCC 124 Wrinkle Resistance Seam Smoothness Grade 3.0 (min) AATCC 88B (Easy Care) Crease Retention Grade 3.5 (min) AATCC 88C Tested after 5 home launderings. Wrinkle Free Fabric Smoothness Grade 4.0 (min) AATCC 124 Seam Smoothness Grade 3.5 (min) AATCC 88B Crease Retention Grade 4.0 (min) AATCC 88C Tested after 5 home launderings. 5.8 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061 (All performance are minimum requirements) Fastener Class Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal Aluminum Molded Plastic Coil Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal Aluminum Molded Plastic Coil Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf) Metal Aluminum Molded Plastic Coil Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal Aluminum Molded Plastic Coil Top Stop Strength (lbf) Metal Aluminum Molded Plastic Coil Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal Aluminum Molded Plastic Coil Note: All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper. 54

55 Defect Classification Appendix A The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects. Additional defects may be identified during testing. Flammability CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or Standard for the Flammability of Children s Sleepwear Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Children s Sleepwear Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Children s Sleepwear measurement requirements Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Children s Sleepwear Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing 55

56 Small Parts / Sharp Points / Sharp Edges CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points / sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque / tension test (sizes 0-5T) Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T ) Fails to provide small parts Includes unnecessary small choking warning hangtag on garment part choking warning which contain certain hangtag. (sizes 4-6x / 4-7) embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X/ 4-7) Drawstrings, Ties & Bows, Belts & Sashes, Loops CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12). Applies to all USA merchandise. NY Law Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16). Applies to all USA merchandise. NY Law Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16). Applies to all USA merchandise. NY Law Free ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle, knot, or any other attachment. Applies to all USA merchandise. WI Law Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16). Applies to all USA merchandise. 56

57 Drawstrings, Ties & Bows, Belts & Sashes, Loops (cont d) CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16). Applies to all USA merchandise. WI Law Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16). Applies to all USA merchandise. WI Law Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles, knots, etc. at the free ends (sizes 0-16). Applies to all USA merchandise. Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length, other than NY or WI law violations. (sizes 0-20) Includes a drawstring, in a nonpermitted area of the garment, other than NY or WI law violations. (sizes 0-20) Includes a drawstring, cord or tie that is not properly secured, other than NY or WI law violations. (sizes 0-20) Drawstrings, cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T) 57

58 Drawstrings, Ties & Bows, Belts & Sashes, Loops (cont d.) CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Includes a non-permitted belt, cord, or tie constructed from metal chain. (sizes 0-5T) Chain belt does not break away under weight of child. (sizes 4-20) Free ends of drawstrings, cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot, toggle or similar attachment. (sizes 16-20) Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area. (sizes 0-5T) Sashes & Belts do not conform to requirements Includes non-permitted halter neck / baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T) Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements. (sizes 0-20) Belt, Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed. Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement. Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T) 58

59 Hardware / Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Children's Product Safety Standards Hardware not from nominated supplier Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort. (sizes 0-5T) Plastic press fastener not preapplied to twill tape. Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T) Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20) Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T) Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T) Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20) Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20) Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment. (sizes 0-6X & 0-7) Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length. (sizes 0-20) Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T) Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T) D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20) 59

60 Hardware/Fasteners (cont d.) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Backing material missing (size 0-5T) Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot & Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M) Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M) Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T) Includes non-permitted button or toggle. (sizes 0-5T) Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20) Hook And Loop Tape Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T) Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments. (sizes 0-5T) Hook And Loop Tape Not Rounded (sizes 4-20) Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe. (sizes 0-5T) Includes non-permitted natural feathers. (sizes 0-20) Packaging CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Socks or mittens includes nonpermitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T) 60

61 Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method / Procedure Country Of Origin Improper Placement Fiber Content - Not Included Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure Labeling - No GPU Manufacturer s ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count and/or Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Labeled Dimensions on Package Label (NIST Handbook 130 & 133) Misspelled Wording Toxics in Packaging Legislation certificate missing NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines Source Tag - Missing Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length 61

62 Labeling (cont d) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL WALMART MAJOR MINOR Labeling Conflicts with PO/Supplier's Quote Product Info Conflicts with Supplier's Quote Performance Durability CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Durability - Buckling of Zippers, or Seams Durability - Detaching of Components, Attachments, Appliqués Durability - Fraying of Seams, Button Holes Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams Durability - Paint/Print Chipping or Peeling Durability - Print Loss Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads Shape Distortion/Torque of Garment Side Seams 62

63 Performance (cont d) Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Construction / Workmanship Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces Shade Variations Between Garments Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Strength - Tear/Tensile Fabric Damage-Needle Cutting/Holes Fabric Weight / Thread Count Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel Knit Bursting Strength Fabric Qualities - Stains/Discoloration Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand Fabric Qualities - Weaving/Knitting Irregularities Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR Poor Construction, e.g. open seam, broken stitch, etc. MINOR Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability Stretchability - Poor Recovery Yarn/Seam Slippage Zipper Performance 63

64 Performance (cont d) Dimensional Stability CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR Shrinkage - Differential MINOR Shrinkage/Growth - Excessive Color Properties CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR Abrasion/Frosting Bleeding/Staining MINOR Discoloration - After Wash Bleeding/Staining - Static Wetting Bleeding/Staining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool Bleeding/Staining Colorfastness - Perspiration Bleeding/Staining Colorfastness - Seawater Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - Wet/Dry 64

65 Performance (cont d) Product Claims / Features CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR Absorbency - Poor MINOR Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted No Documentation Submitted - Adult Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain Stain Release (Food Borne Stains) Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Measurements Measurements CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening Insufficient Stretchability Waistband Measurements - Do Not Conform Measurements - Inconsistent Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support 65

66 Specifications CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Size Specifications - No Final (Production) Size Specifications - No Final (Pre- Production) Specifications - Changes To Final Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production) Specifications Not Submitted (Pre- Production) Color Color Approval CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item. Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production, but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items. Color Approval - No Records Color Approval - Shade Bands Color Approval - Wash Down No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application Incorrect Lab Dip/Shade Band From Supplier No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison 66

67 Appendix B CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below. The supplier must properly complete the CAP form. The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion. If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable, the CAP will be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly. Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAP s Supplier submits sample for retest. Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAP s will be sent to the Walmart Compliance Department for a decision. The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office. 67

68 Children s Body Weight Tables Appendix C Infant / Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys / Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky / Plus Sizes Garment Size Body Weight of the Child (lbs) Boys Girls Preemie 5 5 Newborn M M M M M M T / T / T T Garment Size Body Weight of the Child (lbs) Boys Girls X S R R S R S R S R S R S R S R R R Body Weight of the Child Garment (lbs) Size Boys Girls 6H H H/P H H/P H H/P H H/P H H/P H H H H H H H H

69 Appendix D Summary of the MAP: Fabric ID# is only needed for Direct Suppliers. Domestic Suppliers do not need to obtain fabric ID #s Fabric testing to receive a WAN # is on yardage indicative of bulk. This fabric testing ensures the fabric meets Walmart standards and should be done before any fabric is purchased by the garment supplier. It should be done to a light, medium, and dark color to accommodate color testing. Pre-production Testing cannot take place without a WAN # on the Test Request Form for Preproduction Testing. Bulk Fabric Testing should be done during the Pre-production Testing Process (as outlined below) and should be done before the fabric is shipped. 69

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74 BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling. They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link: 74

75 APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier. For Kids (children) and Baby, all private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper, rivet, clasp, snaps,and thread applications. National, licensed, and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations. If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments. Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used. NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners, Stocko, Newmax) Prym Scovill Fasteners Inc Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) Mississippi Trading Co. (MTI) Lamcom Inc DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) & SLIDERS YKK Prym Mississippi Trading Co YKK Ideal Fastener Corp Talon Zippers HHH Zipper Coats Opti Zippers Lamcom Zippers Scovill Zippers Max Zipper Co. KPP Zipper Co. YCC Zippers SBS Zippers TAT Zippers ZIPPERS A&E Coats THREAD

76 BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the Apparel Trim Manager. Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons: Costing Change in our sourcing strategy Product offering Manufacturing capacity Quality and test results Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier, the following passing audits and testing must be completed: Ethical Standards Audit Passing test results for performance, quality, and regulatory requirements FCCA Audit Contact the Apparel Trim Manager for further information. 76

77 NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS APPENDIX F This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers. These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual. Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing. The graphic performance only is tested in production phase. During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol. Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list. Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and children s products. NOMINATED SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel Delta Gildan Hanes Brands Inc Fruit of the Loom NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS & gildanblanks@gildan.com

78 Walmart Apparel Color Testing Process Summary Revision Date: 7/10/2009 APPENDIX G 1. Introduction Changes To the Color Approval Process Color Performance Level National Brand Color Approval Department 24 and 33 Licensed Goods Style 2.4. No Boundaries and Ocean Pacific, Dept 34 & 35 81, Screen Print Graphics Trim Submission Process Indigo Denim Process DAP Color Testing Process Substrate Submission Electronic Lab Dip, LDE Measurement Offices Physical Lab Dip, LD Electronic Shade Band, SBE Physical Shade Band, SB Wash Down Range, WD Coated Goods Procedure Color Review Process Style Confirmation Contact Information Forms Measurement Submission Forms Swatch Presentation Form, SP Substrate Form Color Review Form CTL Color Lab Process Flow

79 This manual works in conjunction with the Walmart Color Tech Manual V.2 that was released in October The following sections from the Walmart Color Tech Manual V.2 have no changes and the protocol set forth in these sections still holds true today. Section 2 Color & Colorimetry Section 3.1 Color Evaluation and Test Charges Section 3.3 Lighting and Standard Illuminants Section 3.4 Light Systems Section 3.5 Color Standards Section 3.6 Metamerism Section 5.5 How to order Color Solutions Products Section 3.7 is still current with the following updates: X-Rite has a second spectrophotometer approved for the Walmart Color Program and that unit is the CI7. DataColor Track is still a valid form of submission for Electronic Color Testing and can be utilized by all suppliers. However, it is not mandatory for the Electronic Color Program. The X-Rite contact information is as follows: For Sales or general inquiries: Wal-Mart@XRite.com Wal-MartHome@XRite.com Donna Annacone DAnnacone@XRite.com For Supplier Accreditation inquiries: accreditation@xrite.com Additional information may be found at: click on My X-Rite, then login for information regarding the Walmart Electronic Color program and supplier compliance. The DataColor contact information is as follows: For Sales or general inquiries: Wal-Mart@Datacolor.com Chris Hipps chipps@datacolor.com For Supplier Accreditation inquiries: wal-mart@datacolor.com Additional information may be found at: For the purposes in this manual, the following key will be used to describe the Color Lab Report Terminology: LDE = Electronic Lab Dip LD = Physical Lab Dip SBE = Electronic Shade Band SB = Physical Shade Band 79

80 Current Changes to the Process Color Performance Level CP Level The supplier base for Color Performance will be broken into 2 separate levels. Suppliers identified as CP Level 1 will operate under the reduced testing requirements listed below. CP Level 2 suppliers will operate under the current process set forth in this manual. -CP Level 1 -CP Level 2 CP Level 1 suppliers will test only LDE and LD for their orders. After LD approval, the supplier is responsible for monitoring their shade performance on their bulk production. No SBEs or SBs are required to be sent to CTL for CP Level 1 suppliers. Suppliers will be placed into CP Level 1 based off of their Shade Band testing performance over the previous 6 months. An approval rating of 96% or greater for all shade bands tested, both electronic and visual, will move the supplier to CP Level 1. The supplier must have tested a minimum of 100 shade band swatches in the past 6 months to be eligible for CP Level 1 status. Please note that the approval rating for shade bands is not based off of reports tested, but actual number of swatches tested. Suppliers can be dropped to CP Level 2 by having 3 color failures at Pre- Production, Production or In-store testing levels in the same 6 month period. All CP Level 1 suppliers are required to retain cuttings for their SB and have the ability to provide them to Walmart at their request. CP Level 2 suppliers will test under the current testing protocol listed in this manual. This is testing for LDE, LD, SBE and SB. Suppliers will be placed into CP Level 2 by having lower than 96% approval rating for all shade band testing, both electronic and visual, for the previous 6 months. Suppliers can also be placed into CP Level 2 by having 3 color failures at Production or In-store testing levels in the same 6 month period. ****CP level will be re-evaluated every 6 months. A supplier will automatically be dropped into CP Level 2 when the third Production or In-Store Color Failure is issued. ****All suppliers will be notified of their CP Level by CTL in February and August. ****For example, if you are in CP Level 2 in February, you must submit at least 100 shade band swatches to CTL between February and August and achieve an approval rating of 96% or greater with less than 3 Production or In-Store color failures. ****CP Level process will not apply to No Boundaries Dept. 34 and 35 orders.**** 80

81 Changes to the Color Approval Process National Brands All National Brands are exempt from color testing per the new Walmart Apparel Testing Manual. Exceptions: If the National Brand is using a Walmart/CSI color, it must be tested through CTL. Please check with CTL Color Lab Customer Service if you are unsure as to your status as a National Brand. Department 24 and 33 Licensed Goods All Department 24 and 33 licensed goods will be required to test for Color through CTL for Lab Dip and Shade Band testing. This includes both Walmart CSI colors and Vendor set as standard colors All Lab Dips should be sent to CTL attention Style Confirmation Shade Bands can be sent directly to the Color Lab for Evaluation All Color Lab Processes will apply to these items, including electronic color All Department 24 and 33 Licensed Goods will be required to test through the Style Confirmation Process All Style confirmation garments should be sent to CTL Attention Style Confirmation after Shade band Approval, but before Pre-Production samples are submitted. A SC report will be issued for each garment submitted for Style Confirmation. Style Confirmation Garments are required to be on file with CTL prior to the submission of Pre-Production and Production samples **If you are a Department 24 or 33 licensed goods supplier, you will be receiving information separately about this process. If you do not receive any information from CTL, please contact CTL and we will forward you this information. **Please refer to the style Confirmation Process on Page15 No Boundaries and Ocean Pacific, Department 34 and 35 No Boundaries, department 34 and 35 will be required to test for LDE and LD for all Walmart/CSI colors. Shade band submits will need to be sent directly to your Walmart Brand Merchandiser for approval. No shade band submits will need to be sent to CTL. Pre-Production testing will need to be completed for these items, but no color testing will be performed. 81

82 Changes to the Color Approval Process No Boundaries and Ocean Pacific, Department 34 and 35 (cont.) Production testing will continue under the previous protocol, no color testing will be done. ****Trim Process outlined in this manual will apply to all NOBO and OP products ****Color Performance process will not apply to No Boundaries Dept. 34 and 35 orders. ****These items will be checked at the In-Store level for color match to the Lab Dip, Pre Production and Production on file. Screen Print Graphics All Screen Print Graphics that are one-half (1/2) panel and larger are required to color test through CTL. The screens should be sent to your Walmart Brand Manager on CTL paperwork listing all colors present in the screen and the ground color, The Brand Manager will sign the application if the aesthetics are approved and forward to CTL to establish a Lab Dip Report. Shade bands for the item can be sent directly to CTL All screens one-half (1/2) panel and smaller will be sent to your Walmart Brand Manager for aesthetic approval. Once the print is approved, you will be notified by your Brand Manager. These prints will not be forwarded to CTL for Lab dip approval. Trim Submission Process All trims, Dyed to Match (DTM) or contrast, will be approved internally by the supplier, they are not required to color test through CTL There are a few exceptions to this rule: Collars Cuffs Waist bands Finishing Lace These exceptions will need to color test through CTL. These items should be sent in on CTL paperwork referencing the approved body fabric LD report. Once the LD is approved, shade bands will need to be submitted for these trim items All trims will be evaluated at Production from an aesthetic point of view to ensure color coordination. Indigo Denim Denim Approval Process DAP Target standard will be established with your Design/Product Development Teams and forwarded to CTL. The samples at In-Store will be tested against this Target standard by CTL. Walmart DAP document is available on Retail Link or by contacting the Walmart Raw Materials Team. The Process is outlined below in the DAP Flowchart.. 82

83 The Denim Approval Process (DAP)- Flow Chart Starting S weeks 4-5 weeks Concept ADM AFM Seasonal Wash Development In collaboration with supplier, Design/Product Developmentestablishes wash and fabric standards for the season. Usually the wash is established on wash panels using sample yardage. Direct Import suppliers submit fabric and test reports to obtain fabric ID#. (Domestic suppliers do not get a fabric ID#). Supplier submits ADM samples with fabric ID# as applicable. Upon adoption, supplier submits fabric yardage indicative of bulk to CTL/BV testing to obtain WAN #. This yardage should be washed as per the ADM garment wash. WAN# is listed on every AFM garment. Production Standard (called "DAP Sample") Supplier submits garment samples in triplicate to Design for approval on: - fabric - wash. Upon approval, garments are distributed as follows: - 1 retained by Design -1 signed garment sent back to supplier -1 garment shared between CTL and Raw Materials. Wash Down Range Supplier submits wash panels in a range of washes from light to dark, preferably using bulk yardage. These washes are usually generatedusing sample washing machines. Approvalgiven by Design in consultation with NY Raw Materials. Upon approval, leg panels are are distributed as follows: - 1 set retained by Design - 1 set signed and returned to supplier - 1 set forwarded to CTL. Pre-Production Testing Supplier sends bulk fabric yardage and garments in correct washes to CTL/BV to obtain Bulk Fabric # as per the Walmart Apparel Quality Manual. Bulk Production Shade Band Generated on bulk fabric from initial garment bulk production test loads. Supplier submits full garments that represent majority of the bulk wash. NY Raw Materiials compares the washes to approved DAP and Wash Down range. Upon approval, the garments are cut in half and distributed as follows: -one half signed and returned to supplier - other half forwarded to CTL. 83

84 Color Testing Process General Color Testing Process Testing will be completed in the following order: Substrate Submission > LDE > LD > SBE > SB LDE = Electronic Lab Dip LD = Physical Lab Dip SBE = Electronic Shade Band SB = Physical Shade Band Substrate Submission A substrate should be submitted for any item that will be tested electronically through CTL. A substrate is a 6x6 piece of dyed fabric in the construction that you will be supplying to Walmart. A substrate is identified to CTL by the fiber content, fabric construction and dye mill that it is being created in. Each combination of these three qualifiers should be represented in a substrate at CTL. A substrate, once established at CTL, is good forever. It does not expire and does not need to be resubmitted as long as none of the three qualifiers change. There is no charge or report for a substrate. The form that is used to submit a substrate can be found in the appendix of this manual. A substrate should never be sent to CTL in white or black. The substrate should always be dyed in a medium, neutral shade such as tan, blue or green. 84

85 Electronic Lab Dip, LDE Electronic lab dips, LDE, must be submitted for all items in a Walmart CSI color with the exception of the fabrics listed below. This list is not all inclusive and there may be fabrics not listed below that are exempt from electronic color. Please utilize the substrate process for any fabrications that are not listed below that you are unsure about before submitting the lab dip. Lace, open hole mesh, high piled fabrics, heavily brushed fabrics, whites, synthetic rich blacks, i.e. less than 50% cotton, shiny fabrics, garment washed fabrics, prints with white grounds, yarn dyes with stripe width less than 0.5 inch. Again, this list is not all inclusive. Please utilize the substrate process to verify the necessity of electronics prior to submitting your Lab Dip. COORDINATING PIECES are not required to be submitted as an LDE as long as the approved LD report number for the coordinating item is listed in the coordinating pieces section of the application. This will insure that CTL tests the coordinating pieces to each other and not to the CSI standard. ***This rule applies only to coordinating pieces of the same Color. LDE TESTING: 1. Retrieve your CSI standard qtx file in the Lab Dip Evaluation form of your Color Control software. **Make sure you are using the proper standard. Some colors are available in Nylon and possibly Polyester in the future.** 2. Fold your Lab Dip swatch to four-ply thickness or until it is opaque. 3. Take your measurement as an average of four measurements, rotating your sample 90 degrees between each measurement. 4. Save your reading as your lot name/number 5. Submit your LDE measurement to CTL. This can be done through an to ctlcolor@consumertesting.com or though DataColor Track to ctltrack@consumertesting.com. The subject line of your should read: LDE, COLOR NAME, SEASON 6. CTL will issue a report within 24 hours of the time received, not to include the day of receipt. 7. Upon receipt of a passing LDE report, you will need to submit your physical LD swatch to either CTL Bentonville or CTL Hong Kong for evaluation. 8. Please refer questions about the operation of your spectrophotometer or the color control software to your spectrophotometer manufacturer. 85

86 MEASUREMENT OFFICES CTL offers two measurement offices that will measure your lab dip and shade band swatches for you if you do not own a spectrophotometer. These offices will measure your swatches and provide you with the readings. It is your decision whether to submit these measurements or to not submit these measurements to CTL for LDE and SBE testing. These offices in no way provide you with any approvals or rejections; they are simply providing a service to you until you purchase your own spectrophotometer. The address and contact info for these offices are listed below. Bentonville, AR, USA Color Measurement Office 2601 SE Otis Corley Drive Bentonville, AR colormeasurement@consumertesting.com Shanghai, China Attn: Color Measurement, Lily Zhang 3B62 Shanghai Mart 2299 Yan An West Road Shanghai, China Phone: Lily.zhang@ctlinternational.net Supplier Accreditation for Electronic Color Suppliers MUST be accredited through their Spectrophotometer manufacturer in order to submit for electronic color. This can be done by contacting your manufacturer, X-Rite or DataColor, and setting up an appointment with them. 86

87 Physical Lab Dip, LD Upon approval of your LDE submission or if your fabrication is on the exemption list, you will need to submit your physical Lab Dip to CTL Bentonville or CTL Hong Kong. This is done through the following steps: 1 Go to the CTL website at 2 Log in to the website using your client log-in. If you do not have a log-in name and password, click the Request Account button to fill out the form and submit. 3 Fill out the Color Evaluation application (CE1 form), Checking the Lab Dip Test Type, submit it on-line and print it out. 4 Attach your swatch to the Swatch Presentation form (SP1). LD swatches are required to be a minimum of 4 x 4 for solids and 6 x 6 or a full pattern repeat, whichever is larger, for prints and yarn dyes. The swatches should be taped to the SP1 form, do not use staples. The swatches should also be labeled in the lower right hand corner and on the SP1 form. 5 Attach a copy of the approved LDE report to the application, if applicable. 6 All submits must include a CAD of Garment/Style and artwork for full pattern repeat for prints and yarn dyes. 7 Send the submit to the following address: Attn: Color Lab 2601 SE Otis Corley Drive Bentonville, AR or: Color Lab Riley House, 88 Lei Muk Road, Kwai Chung, N.T. Hong Kong CTL will issue the report within 24 hours, not including the day of receipt. ***Make sure that all prints, yarn dyes, wash downs, vendor colors, and any other items with a special aesthetic value are sent to the Walmart New York office to be signed for Aesthetic Approval before coming to CTL for evaluation. ***ALL COORDINATING PIECES MUST BE LISTED ON THE COORDINATING PIECES OR SECTIONS LINE OF THE APPLICATION. COORDINATING PIECES ARE NOT LIMITED TO JUST OTHER FABRICATIONS ON THE SAME GARMENT. THEY CAN INCLUDE OTHER GARMENTS IN THE SAME COLOR. *** Once the Lab Dip is approved, you will need to go back into your electronic color software and save your LDE measurement as your shade band standard. The measurement that was approved in your LDE should be recalled and saved as your LD report number and color name: i.e. LD BLUE ICE. 87

88 Electronic Shade Band, SBE All items, unless on the exemption list, are required to have electronic shade band testing. Electronic shade bands are measured and submitted in the same manner as electronic lab dips with one exception. Electronic shade bands are measured against your approved LDE instead of the CSI qtx file. Therefore, the first step in the process is to recall your shade band standard. Remember, we saved your LDE as LD BLUE ICE before, so this is what you will retrieve to measure your shade bands against. **A shade band, for the Walmart Color Program, is a representative cuttings from bulk production fabric that when combined with your other approved shade bands, represents your total shade variation for the program. The minimum number of shade bands required will vary from one program to another depending on the amount of variation you have in the bulk fabric. 1 Retrieve your Electronic Shade Band standard qtx file in the Shade Band Evaluation form of your Color Control software. 2 Fold your Shade Band swatch to four-ply thickness or until it is opaque. 3 Take your measurement as an average of four measurements, rotating your sample 90 degrees between each measurement. 4 Save your reading as your lot name/number 5 Submit your SBE measurement to CTL. This can be done through an to ctlcolor@consumertesting.com or though DataColor Track to ctltrack@consumertesting.com. The subject line of your should read: SBE, LD ###### COLOR NAME, SEASON 6 CTL will issue a report within 24 hours of the time received, not to include the day of receipt. 7 Upon receipt of a passing SBE report, you may need to submit your physical SB swatches to CTL Bentonville or CTL Hong Kong for evaluation. Please refer questions about the operation of your spectrophotometer or the color control software to your spectrophotometer manufacturer. ***Should your SBE be approved, you may be required to submit your physical shade bands to CTL Bentonville or CTL Hong Kong. This will be noted on your report below the rating of your samples. Any samples that are NOT requested to be sent in are NOT required to be sent to CTL Bentonville or CTL Hong Kong. ***A supplier can send in any physical shade bands that they choose as long as they have an approved SBE on file with CTL. The physical swatches do not have to be requested by CTL in order for the supplier to send them in for evaluation. 88

89 Physical Shade Band, SB Upon approval of your SBE submission or if your fabrication is on the exemption list, you may need to submit your physical Shade Bands to CTL Bentonville or CTL Hong Kong. This is done through the following steps: ** A shade band, for the Walmart Color Program, is a representative cutting from production fabric that when combined with your other approved shade bands, represents your total shade variation for the program. The minimum number of shade bands required will vary from one program to another depending on the amount of variation you have in the bulk fabric. 1 Go to the CTL website at 2 Log in to the website using your client log-in. If you do not have a log-in name and password, click the Request Account button to fill out the form and submit. 3 Fill out the Color Evaluation application (CE1 form), checking the Shade Band Test Type, submit it on-line and print it out. 4 Attach your swatch to the Swatch Presentation form (SP1). SB swatches are required to be a minimum of 6 x 6 for solids and 6 x 6 or to represent all colors, whichever is larger, for prints and yarn dyes. The swatches should be taped to the SP1 form, do not use staples. The swatches should also be labeled in the lower left hand corner and on the SP1 form. 5 Attach a copy of the approved SBE report to the application, if applicable. 6 Send the submit to the following address: Attn: Color Lab 2601 SE Otis Corley Drive Bentonville, AR or Color Lab Riley House, 88 Lei Muk Road, Kwai Chung, N.T. Hong Kong CTL will issue the report within 24 hours, not including the day of receipt. Wash Down Range, WD A Wash Down Range can be submitted in the place of a lab dip if the items in question are GARMENT WASHED*. This is done in the following steps: 1 Go to the CTL website at 2 Log in to the website using your client log-in. If you do not have a log-in name and password, please contact the Color Lab and they will set you up. 3 Fill out the Color Evaluation application (CE1 form), checking the Wash Down Test Type, submit it on-line and print it out. 4 Attach cuttings from garments that have gone through the washing process. These cuttings should represent the total variation that is expected through the process. There is no limit on the number of swatches that can be submitted for a WD range, however, a minimum of three swatches must be submitted. 5 Submit the application and swatches to your Brand Merchandiser or buyer for their approval. They will select the swatches that they approve as your range and forward to CTL. A minimum of three approved swatches are required to set a WD Range. 89

90 Color Testing Process Wash Down Range, WD (cont.) 1 The Walmart contact will forward the package to CTL and CTL will issue a WD Report. 2 Any subsequent dye lots that are needed to fill the order should be submitted to CTL as shade bands against the approved WD range. The shade bands do not need to be approved by Walmart prior to coming to CTL. 3 The additional shade band swatches will be compared to your WD range and any other approved shade band swatches for that item. *Garment Washed implies that finished garments are washed with chemicals to achieve a color change effect. **This process now includes all shades of denim, including Indigo***** Coated Goods Procedure Goods that have a coating applied to the back of the fabric after dyeing and finishing should be submitted under the following procedure: 1 LDE should be submitted for all solid Walmart CSI colors on the uncoated goods. 2 LD should be submitted to your Walmart Brand contact or buyer if it is exempt from electronics due to fabrication or color; or after the LDE is approved. This LD submit should include both the uncoated and coated version of the lab dip. 3 CTL will issue the LD report for the coated and uncoated swatches. If the uncoated swatch is an acceptable match to the CSI standard, both swatches will be approved. If the uncoated swatch is not an acceptable match to the CSI standard, both swatches will be rejected. The coated swatch that is approved will be your visual standard going forward into shade bands. 4 SBE should be submitted for each dye lot produced to fill the order. The SBE measurement should be taken from the uncoated goods only. Do not measure and submit coated goods. The LDE was from the uncoated goods so the SBE must be as well. 5 SB swatches should be submitted to CTL in coated form only. These will be compared to the coated LD swatch. If the item is exempt from electronics, all shade bands will need to be submitted physically in coated form. If SBE testing is performed, only the requested SB swatches are required to be sent to CTL. Again, this does not prohibit you from sending in any of the SB swatches that you would like as long as there is a SBE approval on file at CTL. Once again, all SB swatches sent to CTL should be in coated form only. 90

91 Color Testing Process In the event that a passing LDE, LD, SBE, or SB cannot be achieved, the supplier should begin the Color Review Process. The process that should be followed is listed below: Color Review Process All Color Review Requests should be sent to: colorrev@consumertesting.com In order to qualify for a review you must: 1. Have at least two failing LDE or LD reports 2. Have at least two failing SBE or SB reports 3. These failing reports should not have been submitted on the same day All review requests should include a CAD of the garment or program and any LD report numbers for coordinating pieces or items. These are required in order for the review to be completed. CTL will notify you when the results are complete. Please do not work directly with your Walmart contact for a review request. This will only delay the process. CTL will work with your Walmart contacts once the reports are pulled and ready for review. Style Confirmation The Style Confirmation process applies only to the intimates Department 30, George 34 and 35, Department 24, 26, and 33 licensed goods, Department 29 sleepwear, daywear, panties and scrubs. Style Confirmation is a process that verifies color coordination within these specific groups of product. The submits should be completed garments, in all color ways and including hangtags, made from approved shade bands. They will be checked for color coordination issues and general appearance from a customer perspective. The reports will be issued to the supplier as SC prefix reports. Any failures will need to be resubmitted as a corrected garment. Artwork for the program is very helpful in this process and should be submitted with every garment. Once approved the supplier can proceed to preproduction. The in-store samples will be compared to the approved Style Confirmation garment to ensure consistency of product. The application that is to be used in the same application that is used for your Color Approval submits. The Style Confirmation box should be checked for these submits. Make sure that you list your approved LD and SB report numbers on your application. The application and the garments should be sent directly to CTL, attention Style Confirmation. 91

92 Contact Information Mailing Address: Consumer Testing Laboratories 2601 SE Otis Corley Drive Bentonville, AR phone Consumer Testing Laboratories Far East, Riley House, 88 Lei Muk Road, Kwai Chung, N.T. Hong Kong phone General Questions: Electronic Color Submissions: Color Review/Override Requests: 92

93 MST MEASUREMENT SUBMISSION FORM For measurement purposes only not for physical color testing COMPANY NAME: 6 DIGIT VENDOR NUMBER: FABRIC SUPPLIER NAME: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: BRAND NAME: ITEM DESCRIPTION: BUYER: SEASON: PATTERN NAME: PRINT COLORWAY: COORDINATING PIECES LAB NO: FIBER CONTENT: PREVIOUS LAB NO: COLOR NAME AND COLOR NUMBER: PLEASE REMEMBER TO ENCLOSE A SELF ADDRESSED RETURN FED-EX OR UPS PACKAGE SO THAT THESE SWATCHES MAY BE RETURNED TO YOU. FOR CTL USE ONLY: WMGP OFFICE: STYLE NUMBERS: TEST TYPE (markone): LAB DIP DEPT. NO: SHADE BAND (approved LD #: ) DEADLINE: RE- ED: E- MAILED: SUBMITTABLE: YES NO NUMBER OF SWATCHES: NUMBER OF COLORS: COMPLETED: 93

94 SWATCH SUBMITTAL PAGE COLOR NAME/APPROVED LAB DIP # AND COLOR NAME: PLEASE SUBMIT A 4 X 4 SWATCH FOR LAB DIP TESTING OR 6 X 6 SWATCH FOR SHADE BAND TESTING FOR SOLIDS. FOR PRINTS AND YARN DYES IT MUST BE A 6 X 6 OR A FULL PATTERN REPEAT WHICHEVER IS LARGER. PLEASE INCLUDE SWATCH NUMBER ON THE ACTUAL SWATCH AS WELL AS BELOW. UNIQUE SWATCH IDENTIFICATION CODE (SWATCH NUMBER): 94

95 CONSUMER TESTING LABORATORIES FORM FOR SUBSTRATE IMAGING INSTRUCTION: Please complete a separate application form for each fabric submitted. A 6 x 6 swatch must be submitted in medium depth: medium blue, green, purple, grey, brown, tan or khaki for proper imaging. DO NOT send Black, white, yellow, pink or any light or bright shade. Supplier: Contact Information: Phone: Fabric Description: (Example- Jersey) Labeled Fiber Content: (Example: 100% Cotton) Labeled Country of Origin: Mill Supplier: 95

96 COLOR FAIL REVIEW REQUEST INFORMATION FORM CONTACT PERSON AFFILIATION (Supplier, GP, WMPD/buyer) SUPPLIER NAME COLOR NAME/ PRINT NAME STYLE NUMBER/S FAILING REPORT NUMBERS TO BE REVIEWED COORDINATING REPORT NUMBERS (FOR THIS GARMENT AND OTHERS TO BE MERCHANDISED WITH IT) FOR OTHER FABRICATIONS IN THE SAME COLOR ORDER DETAILS (PLEASE LIST THE BREAK DOWN OF COLOR WAYS AND UNITS ORDERED PER COLOR AND THE IN- STORE DATE) SUPPLIER APPEAL COMMENTS 96

97 After 2 failures, request review through colorrev@consumertesting.com After 2 failures, request review through colorrev@consumertesting.com 97