SHAW ACADEMY NOTES. Diploma in

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1 SHAW ACADEMY NOTES Diploma in

2 Diploma in Personal Beauty Lesson 6 Makeup Perfecting your Eyes & Brows Different Types of Makeup Categories Day Makeup - created with the use of neutral colours to enhance the person s natural beauty in a more subtle way. This a very low maintenance light makeup look that is perfect for work. I would generally stick with matt colours in natural tones browns, beige, creams, pale pink when creating this look but it depends on your personal preference. Night Makeup this can be created using much darker more dramatic and highly pigmented eye shadows, heavier eye liner and more contrast between the highlighted and contoured areas. Because is it that bit more dramatic and stands out more it works great in darker environments! Fashion Makeup These looks are typically much more out there this can be in a more dramatic high colour way or in a much more neutral way, this will depend on the nature of the occasion if it is high end fashion, editorial, ect. Not usually suitable for wearing in a real life situation but again this is down to personal preference Bridal Makeup A mix between Natural Day Makeup and Night time makeup this makeup will be applied relatively heavily to allow for longevity but done so in a natural looking way. Strong colours are usually avoided so that the makeup doesn t stand out more than the hair or dress. The bride s natural beauty should be highlighted and let shine through

3 Special effects Using prosthetics and specifically manufactured makeup, the bone structure, skin colour and texture can be altered beyond recognition using the correct skills, tools and techniques that will result in a various assortment of looks. Things to consider Pigment and Colour Intensity the amount of colour pigment within a product will determine the colour intensity of it Primer similar to the primer used for your foundation, it will increase the longevity of your eyeshadow and will intensify the colour pigment. Matt shadows for maturing skin types & metallic and shimmers work really well on Darker skin types Tools Blending brush biggest of the eyeshadow brushes. The fibres are densely packed but longer and softer or fluffier. Excellent for blending Eyeliner brush used with gel liners or with your homemade eyeliner. Liner and short fibres that allow for sleek and easily straight application of the eyeliner product Angled brush soft but densely flat packed hairs with one side longer and slanting down. Can be used for gel liner, to apply darker colours to the eyelid with precision or for applying a matt shadow to fill in eyebrows Pencil brush - very dense shorter hairs that are longer in the centre of the brush and shorter towards the outside to allow for a stiffer applicator really good for smudging liner and even for crease work Flat shader brush comes in various sizes. This is the most commonly shaped eyeshadow brush. The bristles are quite compact to enable the brush to pick up more products and apply to the skin. Steps for eyeshadow application Pick a trio of colours neutral colours Apply your eyeshadow primer optional - only a little is needed Apply your base colour (lightest colour) with flat shader brush from eyelid all the way up to your brow bone

4 Apply dark colour to crease in eye with pencil brush/small shader brush a little at a time, build up colour and intensity, blending as you go. Applied from outer corner to the midpoint above your iris. Apply medium colour with flat shader brush apply over eyelid and in window wiper motion blend the dark colour with the medium colour in the crease of your eye so that there are no definite colour lines. Use blending brush to ensure that no harsh lines remain and that products are blender and applied thoroughly. Highlight the inner corners and the brow bone to accentuate the eye and bring the look to the next level Eyeliner options Kohl and Kajal liner are both made from different ingredients but they will both allow for softer appearance and have less dragging on the skin. Ensure pencils are sharpened for precision and hygiene reasons Kajal Liner also gives a soft appearance than kohl with a matt powder finish Liquid liner more dramatic intense precise lines, available in a wide variety of brush types and styles Gel liner typically comes in a pot and is applied using a very thin sharply slighted brush. Very intense highly defined lines Pencil liner application Starting at the outer corner of your eye, place the tip of the pencil right into your lash line creating a dot Repeat this across your lash line, taking care not to go all the way to the inner corner as it might look a bit thick If your pencil has a smudger, use this to gently blend the dots together holding your lid gently but taut. If you don t have a smudger (these are found at the end of your pencil) use a thin flat angled brush with a matt eye shadow that is close in colour to your pencil - Shaking off excess shadow from your brush start to join the dots together for a really soft look Liquid liner application (marker styles will be easier for beginners) Hold lid taut and slightly lifted to get right into lash line Apply from the centre to the outer edges of the eye - keeping it very thin and close to the lash line Finish with a slight uplift in the line Go from inner corner to centre keeping it very fine o While using a liquid liner ensure its right on the lash line with no gaps

5 Eyebrow tools o Balance your elbow on a hard surface for balance if you find you can t keep your hand steady Brow brush small flat slanted brush, eyebrow comb, clean mascara wand Brow stencil available in various shapes and sizes Brow Shadow a matt shadow (a shade lighter than the colour you want). This will give a much more natural soft finish Brow pencil a shade lighter than the colour you want. This is used to outline the brows but can also be used to fill in your brows and will give a more structured look Brow wax or gel can be clear or pigmented gel or wax used to set the eyebrow Steps for the Perfect Eyebrows (These steps can also be used with a stencil as well) Brush your brows upwards and into shape with your eyebrow comb Using your pencil underline your eyebrow Define the ends and using feathery motions enhance the start of your eyebrows (the inner side of your brows) Lightly line along the top of your brow Fill in using powder and slanted brush Once they are filled in brush through to disperse product evenly this will make them look naturally defined If you feel they look too dark or heavy just take a cotton bud and wipe over them gently until you are happy Once you are happy with the colour intensity you can set them in place. I usually use a clear wax so as not to mix too many colours and it is softer looking than a gel Mascara For short lashes you need a lengthening mascara, the brush in this will be small and straight so that you can really get in to coat the lashes from top to bottom Sparse lashes you will need a thickening mascara Straight lashes a curling mascara, this will have a curved brush to really get that lift it should help to separate lashes as well. Normal lashes you will be able to use a volumising mascara that will give the effects of all three to enhance what you have. The brush for this will be big as you need a lot of product on, because of this it can cause clumping but practice makes perfect!! Mascara bases and waterproof products are available as well

6 Notes

7 THANK Thank YOU You