The Well-Dressed Rider

Transcription

1 The Well-Dressed Rider Presented by Annisa Gabrielli, OL Instructor can be contacted at: An overview of human riding attire in the SCA period, for a variety of activities including hunting, tournament, military, formal or casual civilian riding; with suggestions for adapting or disguising modern safety equipment. Horses at historical events can provide a spectacular presence, and the more we can keep the equestrian area looking like a historical place, the more we add to the pageantry and feeling of stepping back in time. I hope to show that nearly all medieval clothing can be well-suited to riding horses, and that well-dressed equestrians contribute a great deal to the historical experience of all attendees at the event. In our modern lives, we have very large wardrobes, with many items of clothing reserved for specific uses. We tend to be used to riding horses in pants, boots, jackets and other clothes which we do not use for other activities. Our medieval counterparts had, in general, far fewer garments, and each one served a wider range of functions. People lived around their livestock and their horses were part of daily life, so clothing was made to suit this. A person might add boots and an overgown to travel from home to a destination, but would probably not fully change clothes upon arrival. However, there are types of clothing which were, and are, best suited to certain types of activities. A frequent question I hear is, What modifications do I need to make to my garb to make it work on horseback? My answer is, usually, nothing! If you make your clothing the way it was made in the Middle Ages, it will most likely work well for riding. I really encourage SCA equestrians to avoid the temptation simply to throw a tunic over their usual modern riding clothes.

2 If we can dress like this to work in the kitchen, why dress like this to ride a horse? Yeah- I have been that rider in modern boots, modern breeches, sunglasses, and a tunic shirt. I didn t want to get my nice clothes dirty. In this class, I will offer some suggestions for looking at medieval images to get clothing ideas, and cover some silhouettes which work particularly well for the activities we do at our events. I will also discuss some ways to keep your nice clothes clean, and to accommodate modern safety considerations and SCA requirements. Looking at historical materials: We are lucky in our quantity of research materials. Horses and riders are everywhere in art, text, and the archaeological record. The horse is one of the earliest animals to be found represented in human art, and continues as a symbol of prestige, power, grace and beauty to this day. We have so much to choose from that it can be a bit overwhelming. When looking at historical images, keep some questions in mind- What century and part of the world is this from? What activity is being portrayed? Are these real people, or fantastic, historical, or symbolic figures? What details can you discern from the image about the shape and construction of the garment? Is a lining visible? Do the folds look like thin or heavy fabric? What colors are used? Is there decoration? How loose or tight are the garments? Many activities depicted in art have close parallels to the activities we re-create at our events. Some categories of SCA equestrian activities include: General Riding, Processions of finely dressed nobility and attendants, Mounted Games simulating hunting or military training, Tournament activities such as jousting and mounted combat, and Displays of Skill such as carousels and solo rides before a prince. Each type of activity has particular considerations for practical and appropriate attire, and substantial reference material to look at for ideas.

3 Period examples of Hunting, Tournament, Procession, Skill demonstration, and General riding. Historical images of travelers are a nice reference for general riding, progress, mounted security patrol, practice, or any other sort of casual civilian activity. Images of hunting are plentiful, and are good reference for hunting themed courses and mounted archery. Women are most often represented riding in hunting and traveling scenes. Military training is often shown being done wearing the civilian fashions of young men of the day, and can be a good reference for military-themed courses and displays of riding skill. Sometimes the training exercises are also shown with armor added, which makes sense! Battle and tournament images are nearly indistinguishable in earlier periods, but as the two activities diverge from about the 14th century forward, it s a good idea to look closely at what is happening in the image. Both sources are good for ideas of armor and surcoats, with crests and elaborate displays of heraldry in the tournament images. Processions of nobility often show riders in formal fashionable attire, with long, heavy layers which we might not ordinarily consider practical for more athletic riding. Displays of heraldry and liveried attendants with banners, pennants and so on can round out the lavish presentation. Some images which require more careful consideration are those which do not represent real events. These can be images of saints, images of historical or legendary figures, and images of allegorical figures such as Justice, Pestilence, etc. Sometimes these figures are represented as contemporary men and women, but often they have invented exotic or symbolic elements to show that they are from long-ago, far-away, or another plane of existence. These images can still be useful though, as with legendary figures like Penthesilea, Queen of the Amazons. Women in the SCA participate in military activities in far greater proportion than our historical examples, so it can be interesting to see how medieval artists imagined female warriors.

4 Legendary warrior women, as imagined by 15th century artists. When looking at images for ideas, consider whether the items being worn are appropriate for your activity. Wide or draping sleeves may be difficult for archery, for example, and laborer s attire may be out of place in a procession. When you have chosen a style, look carefully at how the items are made, how many layers are being worn, and how heavy or light the fabric appears. Is the rider wearing gloves, belt, hat, or any other accessories? The more detail you can add, the better the overall effect will be. Planning your wardrobe: When planning your wardrobe, consider the context of your riding. Will you be entering a tournament, conducting a mock hunt, participating in a court procession, displaying your skills before a Prince or in a carousel, or simply riding for pleasure? Each of these situations have different requirements for clothing. Riding to Impress: A skill display or carousel is best done in clothing and trappings which show the rider s and horse s movements off to their best advantage. A cloak or long dress which drapes over the horse s rump will obscure the judges view of the rider s posture and the horse s movement. Similarly, loose-fitting upper-body garments with voluminous sleeves or an excess of accessories can clutter the view of subtle finesse. Choosing closer-fitting garments with cleaner, simpler lines, and keeping long skirts gathered close to the rider will help you demonstrate your skill and subtlety more clearly.

5 When one is riding to impress, it s easier to demonstrate fine, subtle movements and excellent posture if the horse and rider are not obscured by too much loose fabric. Processions: For a procession, do not be afraid to ride in your finest! Our predecessors had a great method for keeping their expensive clothing clean, in the form of the saddle cloth. More about that in the Well-Dressed Horse class, but preventing your fine clothes from contacting the horse is important. Have assistants to hold the horse while you mount and help you get your clothing arranged, then enjoy the impressed murmurs of the crowd as you ride past. If the encumbrance of the clothing makes you uncomfortable, being led by a footman can add to the pageantry. Saddle cloth in use for modern and historical processions to keep the riders clothing clean

6 Clothing for the Hunt: Many SCA activities emulate hunting, and many medieval images depict hunting, too! The mounted hunters wears long coats, hose, and stylish hats, while the other members of the team are more modestly dressed for harder work in short boots, hoods, and less voluminous coats and tunics. The ladies both wear long-sleeved dresses and overgowns. They ride astride, as was common for women in the 14th century. Hunting attire: Livre de la Chasse, Gaston Phoebus Juliana of Avon, 2016, photo credit Esmeralda of the Lakes Romance of Alexander, circa Women hunting. Annisa, 2017.

7 Note that these women do not spread their skirts over the backs of their horses. This is practical, as the inside of a skirt will get very dirty very quickly on the back of the horse. Military: 12th Century Bible (unknown). Thorkel Haraldsson, Maciejowski Bible, circa The soldiers silhouettes are very much like the civilians of the time, in knee-length tunics, hose and soft shoes, or mail hauberk and leggings which cover the feet, with the addition of a simple helmet. The Maciejowski riders belted, sleeveless surcoats and caparisons are lined in contrasting colors. Caparisons for military use seem to have flourished in the 13th century, and fallen out of favor shortly thereafter. Tournament: Manesse Codex, Guillaume de Garrigues, The importance of heraldry in tournament costume is apparent here, with brightly-colored caparisons and surcoats. The riders wear mail shirts and hose, covered by surcoats which often match their horses caparisons. One wears a helm covered with fabric mantling and a huge, elaborate crest. One rider has an all-over heraldry pattern on his surcote and caparison, while the others have small shields scattered on backgrounds of contrasting color.

8 Romance of Alexander, circa Joust. These shorter, narrower surcoats seem to be slit or cut away at the front and are worn over the armor, with large crests atop the helmets. General Riding: Civilian riders. Romance of Alexander, circa Guillaume, The long sleeved tunics are knee length, and fit close to the body and arms, then flare to a wider skirt for riding. Hoods with short shoulder capes, which were common for much of our period and very popular in the 14 th century, are quite practical for riding as they provide warmth without encumbering the rider. Military Training: An image from many pages of instructions for training a mounted soldier, de la Noue 1620 Eastern riders:

9 These styles are pretty far outside my area of study, but it is interesting to note that the lady with the harp in both images is riding astride her horse. A few tips: Consider your persona s time and place, of course, but also consider your own safety. Before the 17 th century, most shoes were made with smooth leather soles and no heel. Many people feel more secure around horses, especially when using stirrups, wearing shoes or boots with a heel. Perhaps you can come up with a period looking solution, either by choosing a boot without too many modern details, or by wearing clothing which covers the feet when mounted. Adding an appropriate-looking top to a modern boot may be a good compromise. Minors are required by SCA regulations to wear an approved helmet. Helmets are a good idea for adults too, especially when riding an unfamiliar horse or in an unfamiliar setting, and there are many ways to cover or disguise a helmet, which will be addressed later. Be aware of loose clothing and accessories when mounting, dismounting and using weapons. It s easy to catch loose clothing, necklaces, and other items on tack, weapons and targets, which can be hazardous or alarming for all involved. Noisy garments, especially armor, require some introducing to the horse. Long trailing hems will require special attention so that they do not get under hoof, and may become inconvenient in muddy conditions. Consider your range of motion when fitting garments- can you lift your arms enough to groom / mount / put a bridle on a horse? Does your garment have enough fullness to sit astride the horse? Checking these considerations will help ensure that the garments don t tear or break in use.

10 If the skirt of a tunic or coat is not very full, slits in the front and back will help it to lie smoothly when mounted. This technique has been used by riders throughout history (and fiction). Slits at the sides can also work. Footwear: For safety purposes, minors participating in SCA equestrian activities are required to wear sturdy boots with enough heel to prevent the foot slipping through the stirrup. Adults may also feel more comfortable with a heel, especially when riding with stirrups. Many commercially available styles of riding boot look acceptably period. In general, boots with laces and Western cowboy boots look distinctly modern, while plain, low-heeled roping boots and most pull-on English-style boots look better. Many shoes and boots not made specifically for equestrian activities can also work, for example, the inexpensive boots sold by scaboots.com are often used. As with footwear for general SCA use, use your best judgement to determine a balance of function and form. Consider the tack you will be using, your familiarity with the horses you will be dealing with, and your requirements for arch and ankle support, toe protection, traction, water resistance, etc. Fabric and washability: Horses are dirty. Anything you wear while dealing with horses should be washable. Pre-wash all fabrics to be used in making clothes to be worn around horses. Of course, I also say the same thing about making any clothing to be worn while camping. Clothing for women: Many women opt to dress like men when riding, as it seems simpler not to have to deal with a long dress. Consider this: until the 20th century, european women wore long skirts, and all daily tasks were accomplished in this attire. In the ages before the train and automobile, travel involved the help of horses and other quadrupeds. I encourage women to wear what their persona would wear when on horseback. Several women have asked me what modifications they should make to their dresses so that they may ride in them.

11 The answer is usually, nothing! If your clothing is accurately made, you will probably find that it works just fine as it is. Some things to check would be: Undergarments. Linen or wool knee-length stockings are accurate for most of our period, and provide some leg protection. Linen braies (boxer shorts), bike shorts, or other pants may be useful. Many SCA women choose to wear riding pants under their skirts. Neutral colors won t be distracting, and historically accurate stockings may still be worn to cover and help protect the lower leg. Fullness of skirt. Try straddling something in your dress. Is there enough fullness that the skirt does not inhibit movement? Does the skirt pull up indecently? Length. Be practical- long trains aren t the best thing for the outdoors, much less a working situation. A floor-length or ankle length hem is a better idea, and wearing a belt so that the skirt can be pulled up is handy when leading and grooming. Keep track of your hem so that it doesn t end up under hoof, and have someone assist you when mounting so that you can arrange your skirt, especially if you are using a saddle with a high cantle. Extras. If you ride in a western or australian saddle with a horn, be extra careful when mounting and dismounting so you don t catch clothing, belts, sleeves or necklaces on the horn. Gloves and aprons can be very nice for keeping things clean. Clothing for men: Consider whether your usual period clothing will work. Usually it will. Some features of horsemen s clothing: Slits at center front and back. Since men s garments often have less fullness in the skirt, a slit from the hem to the waist may be useful. Length. Long enough to cover & protect legs, short enough to stay out of the way. Pants. Either hose, breeches or trousers. Boots. Long boots are very useful to protect the legs from the stirrup leathers, and to provide extra grip. Leg-wraps can serve the same purpose for earlier periods. Headwear- If you are not using a helmet, wear the usual headwear of your persona. You may want to consider securing any very loose fabric to prevent it from obscuring your vision, but in general, you shouldn t need to make any modifications. Sun hats or other broad-brimmed hats may be pinned to a coif worn underneath to prevent the hat from blowing off. Minors must wear approved helmets, and many adults also prefer to use helmets when riding. A riding helmet may be covered in a variety of ways. Since the helmet is larger than your head, wider, bulkier styles of hat will adapt best to being used as helmet covers and will be more convincing than trying to make it look like a close-fitting style, which will seem to hover oddly away from the head. Turbans, padded chaperons, and hats with brims will mask the bulk of the helmet well. The popular six-section wool or leather cap with fluffy fur trim can also work. A wimple, liripipe, coif or drape under the chin can cover the helmet s harness, and low profile helmets without brims will produce the most convincing-looking hats. The jockey skull style helmets used by eventers are great for this, and they also have a textured surface to help secure the fabric cover. Some modern riding helmets, covered to look like hats of the rider s persona:

12 I hope that I have shown that a wide variety of historical styles of clothing may be worn safely and comfortably for equestrian activities, and that modern elements may be incorporated where needed without sacrificing a historical appearance. Horses at events can provide spectacular historical impact, and the better we look, the more we add to the pageantry and feeling of stepping back in time.